Adventure Guide 2012 by Leisure Wheels

e d i u g e r u t n e Adv U BY

BROUGHT TO YO

MOUNTAIN

BIKING

DIG THE DIRT

JUNKYARD BUGGY TACKLES THE GLOBE

CONQUER THE CRAGS

HIKE THE

BERG WONDERFUL

FACE TO FACE WITH GORILLAS

WATER

SPORTS

ADVENTURE BIKE TOUR: Taking to the mountains • CANOPY TOURS: Nice and easy! TRAIL RUNNING: Put some adventure into your runs • RIVER RAFTING: The thrill of white water • GORGE ADVENTURE: Experience the joys of kloofing • A COLT AND A KTM: Head for the Northern Cape and Namibia • WORLD’S HIGHEST ABSEIL: Brave enough to take the plunge? 172

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MAIN FEATURES

164 THREE MEN AND A JEEP In search of adventure

102 GORILLA TRACKING Up close and personal 110 CANOE ADVENTURE For love and charity

ADVENTURE LIFESTYLE

118 JUNKYARD BUGGY Travels the globe

108 WATER SPORTS The white-water rush! 142

138 MOUNTAIN BIKING It’s all about the bike 144 TRAIL RUNNING Head for the hills

TOP ADVENTURES

152 GORGE ADVENTURE The joys of kloofing

114 RIVER RAFTING The river wild!

157 BERG AMPHITHEATRE Top of the world

126 RAIL ADVENTURE Traverse the Hexpas

160 MALETSUNYANE FALLS World’s tallest abseil

142 NIGHT BIKING Join the dark side 130 A COLT AND A KTM Go to Namibia

162 SURVIVAL CAMP Are you tough enough?

148 CANOPY TOURS Nice and easy

134 ADVENTURE BIKING Touring southern Africa

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150 ROCK CLIMBING Attack the crag

INDUSTRY NEWS

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124 MAZDA BT-50 Dares to be different

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wildlife Adventure

GORILLA TRACKING IN UGANDA

Up close and

personal

What is the ultimate wildlife adventure? It’s tough to say, but as we discovered during one of Kingsley Holgate’s recent expeditions, tracking wild gorillas is undoubtedly one of the most memorable

The view was stunning. Large trees created an impenetrable forest canopy in front of us. The last wisps of mist ﬂoating through the trees were being burned away by the early morning sun. It was an aweinspiring sight, but I couldn’t spend much time looking at it. I was too busy focusing on the ground in front of my feet. We were descending a steep slope right on the edge of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Actually, “descend” is not the right word for it. What we were doing could best be described as making a long, semi-controlled tumble down a mountain.

In front of us was a gorilla tracker who was chopping a path through the dense vegetation. He hacked and pushed, creating what could generously be called a path, but was really a narrow channel through the undergrowth. The slope was impossibly steep. The mud and wet vegetation were slippery as oil. Every step was a challenge. You would cautiously place a foot on top of the pushed-over branches and leaves, testing whether it would oﬀer an adequate foothold. Then you would grab hold of a thin reed or branch, and lower yourself a little farther down the slope. The slender H/T-S

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Text and photography: GG van Rooyen

branch would gamely attempt to support 80kg of human being for a couple of seconds, but then break, throwing you oﬀ balance and sending you down the slope at a rather alarming speed. Your only option then was to throw out your arms and hope to grab hold of something else to arrest your fall. Our reason for travelling down this particular hill was a large family of gorillas. Our trackers and guides – employees of the Uganda Wildlife Authority – had spotted them slowly descending this slope, and were now leading us towards them. And before long, we found them. At

least, I was told that we had found them. Since we were falling down the hill in single ﬁle and I was at the back of the line, I really couldn’t see much. Occasionally, someone at the front would turn around, smile and point. Most of the time I couldn’t see anything, but once or twice I managed to spot a furry blob sitting in a tree some distance away. As we continued to descend, though, things improved. I started to get my fair share of gorilla sightings but, to be honest, I still wasn’t ﬁnding the experience particularly rewarding. Because of the thick vegetation, you couldn’t see the gorilla

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family very well. Moreover, they were not impressed by our intrusion. They would continue to lounge and munch away on leaves for a minute or two and then move oﬀ, forcing us to pursue them down the slope. Once, when we got particularly close to a gorilla and he perhaps felt the need to up his pace, he plopped onto his backside, pushed with his arms, and simply slid down the hill! The aptly named mountain gorilla is perfectly suited to hilly environments and when you see one shimmying on its bum down the slope, you realise that you’re M/T +

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Main photo: Tracking Bwindi’s gorillas just outside the forest. Above: Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park offers wonderful views of the Great Rift Valley. Remnants of the region’s volcanic history can be seen everywhere. Craters are a common sight. Left, insert: One of Bwindi’s gorillas gives us an intimidating stare.

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dealing with terrain that human beings simply aren’t designed to navigate. The whole experience felt, well, a bit underwhelming. To be fair, I had arrived at Bwindi with naïve and unrealistic expectations, undoubtedly created by films such as Gorillas in the Mist and Congo. I was expecting a near-mystical meeting between two species. I pictured our two groups approaching each other cautiously but with irrepressible curiosity. I thought the gorillas would be as fascinated by us as we were by them. It had been a stupid notion, of course. This was the first time that most of us had laid eyes on a group of wild gorillas, but it was certainly not their first contact with humans. Gorilla trekking is big business in Uganda. Hardly a day passes without the gorillas being pestered by a group of camera-toting tourists. As I sat watching a gorilla some distance away, I suddenly heard something move in the undergrowth next to me. For a moment I thought it might be a gorilla, but I quickly dismissed the notion. It certainly didn’t sound like a 250kg mammal moving through the foliage. It was more like a snake winding its way through the grass. As I sat inspecting the leaves and

wildlife Adventure

branches next to me, expecting a highly venomous snake to pop out, one of the guides turned around. He smiled, and quietly signalled for us to look behind us. Right behind me was a very big gorilla – a member of the family we had been told about before our trek started. His name was Kavuyo, and in the words of our guides, he was the “troublemaker” in the group. As I sat staring at him, I wondered exactly what the guides meant by “troublemaker”. Was he the sort who playfully wrestled with the other gorillas and stole their food when he saw an opportunity, or was he the sort of troublemaker that tended to tear the limbs oﬀ tourists? At that moment he looked very annoyed. And I was blocking his way.

ROAD TO BWINDI

Our journey to meet Kavuyo and the rest of the gorilla family had started in Entebbe. Our aim was to join Kingsley Holgate on his latest expedition as he journeyed through Uganda towards Rwanda. Once we reached Bwindi, which is close to the border with Rwanda, we would bid him and his expedition team farewell, and use the opportunity to

see Uganda’s gorillas in their natural environment. As you probably know, Kingsley is once again exploring the continent, and using the opportunity to distribute malaria nets and educate people about malaria prevention. This time, his journey is following the Great Rift Valley from its northernmost point in Djibouti to its southern tip at Gorongoza in Mozambique. While most people are familiar with the Rift Valley’s prominent features, such as the Ngorogoro Crater, few realise how long it truly is. From Djibouti, it runs through Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Malawi. It is the only geological feature on the earth’s surface that can be seen from the moon. For those wishing to travel overland along its path, the rift obviously offers a few geographical challenges. Tracing its route forces one to deal with imposing mountain ranges, arid planes and, as we were to find out, unpredictable weather. We flew from Johannesburg to Entebbe, and took a charter flight to Kasese, landing on a small grass runway. Kingsley and his team were there to meet us. “You’re lucky,” Kingsley said, as we H/T-S

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Top, left: One of Kingsley Holgate’s Land Rover Discovery 4s travels through Queen Elizabeth National Park. His vehicles have been forced to deal with tough terrain, and haven’t missed a beat. Left: Kingsley and Ross Holgate attempt to find an open road to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Top: Photographing gorillas in their natural environment is a wonderful experience. A/T-S

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stepped off the plane. “This is the first day of good weather we’ve had for a while. It’s been raining a lot.” It was a lovely day – hot and humid, exactly what one would expect at the equator. Travelling from Kasese, we crossed the equator and entered the Queen Elizabeth National Park. The park is known for two things: an abundance of wildlife and striking volcanic features that showcase the region’s violent geological history. As soon as we entered the park we noticed the volcanic craters and cones. We climbed a steep hill and drove along a ridgeline that cut through the numerous craters. Thanks to the recent rains, the area was lush and the scenery was spectacular. From some of the highest points in the park, the remnants of the volcanoes were easy to see. The panoramic views were filled with high peaks and deep craters. As we drove south through the park in Kingsley’s Discovery 4s, the landscape flattened out. Soon we were close to Lake George and the Kazinga Channel, where we would spend the night. At this lower altitude, it was clear that Uganda’s southern region had received a lot of rain. The park’s roads were a muddy mess. More than once, our Disco’s traction control kicked in to steady it on the slippery roads. Ross Holgate sang the two Discos’ praises. “The vehicles have done incredibly well,” he said. “They’ve been forced to deal with everything from desert heat and sand to mud and rock, and they haven’t missed a beat.” Our campsite for the evening was a damp piece of ground next to the Kazinga Channel. The ground was angled slightly towards the channel, and deep grooves had been cut into the mud by rainwater. It was clear that the site would quickly become very wet and muddy if it rained again. Of course, it started to rain almost as soon as we arrived. In record time, dark clouds gathered and the heavens opened. We ducked into the vehicles and waited for the storm to pass. To our immense relief, it cleared up quickly. About ten minutes later, the sun was shining again. Luck seemed to be on our side. Wanting to make the most of the remaining daylight, we decided to go for a cruise on the Kazinga Channel. We spent an hour or two on the water and saw a tremendous amount of game. Hippo and buffalo were particularly plentiful. As we stepped off the boat, we could see a new cloudbank moving in. Dinner was quickly prepared, but before we could finish, the rain

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was upon us. And this time it wasn’t a quick shower. It continued unabated through the night. Pop-up tents are a wonderful invention, especially if you travel a lot, since they allow you to set up camp in record time. When it comes to keeping rainwater out, however, they leave quite a bit to be desired. Inevitably, the pounding rain found its way into every tent, until mattresses and sleeping bags were thoroughly soaked. It was a long and uncomfortable night. By the time we emerged the following morning, damp and bleary-eyed, the rain had thankfully stopped. Our plan was to pay a quick visit to Lake George, and then head farther south towards the Kigezi Wildlife Reserve, where we would spend the night. Not long after we turned onto the road towards Kigezi, however, we were told that one of the bridges had been ﬂooded, but since there was a chance that the Landys would still be able to cross the submerged bridge, we decided to press on. Arriving at the bridge, we found that it had indeed been submerged, but pedestrians were still crossing it, albeit in rather shaky fashion. The current seemed strong, but the water wasn’t very deep. We felt conﬁdent that the Discovery 4s had the ground clearance and weight to withstand the water’s force. One of the members of our group

wildlife Adventure

offered to wade in to assess the Discos’ chances of getting across. The water didn’t seem too bad, and he managed to make it to the other side. But on his way back, he suddenly disappeared neck-deep into the water. The flood had gouged a deep hole in the cement bridge! How many other holes were hidden beneath the water? Crossing the bridge simply wasn’t worth the risk. So we had to find an alternative route south. Instead of cutting towards Kigezi, we were forced to use a more south-easterly route. The road wasn’t bad, but we had lost a lot of time because of the flooded bridge. By the time we reached the town of Rukungiri, the sun was setting, and we needed a place to sleep. We found accommodation at the unexpectedly named Rondavels Inn. The establishment didn’t have any actual rondavels, but it did have plenty of rooms – basic but clean, and most importantly, dry. Everyone slept well after a long day of travelling. Time was now running out – less than 24 hours remained before we were scheduled to visit the gorillas. Moreover, the rains had played havoc with Uganda’s infrastructure. We were told that four bridges in the region had been flooded. Reaching Bwindi was no longer a certainty. We took a route we’d been told was open, but soon discovered it was closed. Thanks to a fortuitous encounter

Top, left: Many of the bridges in the south of Uganda were flooded, forcing the expedition team to find alternative routes. Top: The grass airfield at Kasese. The town is right on the equator. Centre: An expedition member fills Kingsley’s calabash with water from Lake George. Water is collected from every lake along the route. Above: Taken from the Kazinga Channel, this picture shows Lake Edward, with the Blue Mountains of the Congo behind it.

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with a local official, however, we found out about another route to Bwindi that was definitely open. We followed this road but before long encountered another problem. A truck was stuck in the mud, and this had created a long queue of trucks and buses behind it. There was no doubt that the Discos could deal with the mud, but since we were stuck behind large vehicles that were going nowhere, our hopes seemed dashed. But our luck changed. The truck was freed from the mud and the other large vehicles kindly allowed us to sneak around them and hit the open road. We were on our way to Bwindi!

UNFORGETTABLE EXPEREINCE

Above: All the roads in southern Uganda were muddy and waterlogged. While Kingsley’s Disco 4s were able to cope without much hassle, many other vehicles were not, and this caused massive traffic jams. Apart from mud, the Landys had to deal with desert sand and volcanic rock. The Rift’s volcanic rock was particularly hard on tyres. for a few moments, he slapped the ground in front of him to emphasise his annoyance, and moved off. Seeing him in his natural environment was a surreal (and scary) experience – one that could never be replicated in a zoo. Moreover, our encounter with Kavuyo seemed like a turning point in the experience. Not long after the standoff, the gorillas appeared to accept our presence and calmed down. They no longer took off as soon as we got close. After a while, we were in the centre of the family, with gorillas feeding above, behind and in front of us. Before the trek, our guides had told us to stay at least 7m away from the animals, but while we kept our

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distance, the gorillas disregarded the rule completely. We could almost touch them. There are wild gorillas in the forests that have had little contact with humans, but these families that tourists are led to act almost like envoys for the gorilla kingdom. They are quite used to humans, which is a good thing, since it prevents these encounters from ending in tears and even bloodshed. That said, these majestic creatures are still wild animals. And being able to see them in their natural environment is a privilege. Yes, it is expensive (US$500 in Uganda and US$750 in Rwanda), but it is worth it. Very few wildlife adventures can compare with this one.

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We arrived at Bwindi late in the afternoon. We’d made it, and would be able to keep our date with the gorillas. After a peaceful night at a local lodge, we went to the entrance of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, where we met our guides for the day. The government’s guides and trackers keep close tabs on the gorillas. The trackers always have a general idea of where they are, and early each morning they set out to find the spot where the animals had made their ground nest the previous night. From there, they start tracking the gorillas. Once the trackers find them, they radio the guides, and they then have the responsibility of leading the tourists to the animals. Gorilla tracking is an unpredictable activity. Although visitors are virtually guaranteed to see the animals, there is no telling what the viewing circumstances might be. You might encounter them almost as soon as you start hiking, or you could walk for nine hours before you spot them. There are several gorilla families in the region, and each group of tourists is assigned a specific family, so how soon you encounter the gorillas really depends on the movements of your family that day. We were fairly lucky. Our family (the Habinyanja family) were spotted just outside the forest itself, not too far from a large access road. So we drove as far as we could, and then started hiking. Within about 30 minutes, our guides informed us that we were on a ridge right above the gorillas. It was time to head down the mountain to find them. As recounted earlier, this was where things started to get tricky. And, at least at first, it hardly seemed worth the effort, as we only got glimpses of the gorillas. But things changed once “Kavuyo the Troublemaker” popped up behind us. I had wanted a close encounter with a gorilla, and that is exactly what I got! The massive beast was standing right in front of me, not impressed by the fact that we were blocking his route. After staring at us with undisguised contempt

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wet Adventure

RIVER SPORTS

Wonderful

water... There’s nothing like it – the water rushing past your legs, which are eerily dry inside your insulated craft. Spray on your face reminds you how close you are to being drenched, and the rush of the river fills your ears until all you can think of is getting another metre ahead. This is the world of river sports

Whether you do it slalom or with friends in a raft, the experience of flying along the surface of one of SA’s great rivers cannot be matched by any video game or Wii console. And with the river your means of transport, your biggest ally and your body’s nemesis, there’s no going back. It’s an all-in kind of sport, and once the current moves your craft forward, you’re committed to getting to the end. Perhaps that’s why river sports are so popular – there’s no quitting. That, and the fact that there are so many forms of the sport that just about anyone can find their calling.

What do you need?

Canoeing

GAUTENG Rietvlei Dam – www.centcc.co.za

Canoeing is one of the easiest river sports to get into. It puts your right in the water, and whether you’re gunning it or taking it slowly, it’s a great team exercise and can be very social. Read more about canoeing on page 110.

A canoe, paddle and a river – it really is that easy. Choosing a canoe is the toughest part. For easy canoeing, a flatbottomed canoe is best for quiet waters. Faster canoes have rounded hulls and there are special canoes for white water canoeing. A great way to start out is on a guided trip, where you rent a canoe. You can then build up your expertise and figure out where you fit in.

Where to canoe?

MPUMALANGA Komatie Gorge (canoes supplied free) – www.komatigorge.co.za or www.lowveldcanoe.co.za

KWAZULU-NATAL The Dusi – www.dusi.co.za GARDEN ROUTE Knysna Lagoon – www.knysnaquays.co.za WESTERN CAPE The Berg River – www.windhoekberg.co.za NORTHERN CAPE The Orange River – www.felixunite.com For competitive canoeing, visit the Canoeing South Africa site for information on sprints, slalom, marathons and even canoe polo. www.canoesa.org.za

Kayaking

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Text: Anzet du Plessis

WESTERN CAPE Cape Winelands – www.hbkecotours.co.za Doring and Breede River – www.aquatrails.co.za FREE STATE Ash River – www.playak.com or www.fraservalleywhitewater.com EASTERN CAPE Kologha Forest Reserve – www.dirtyboots.co.za/ operators/natural-hig-outdoor-adventures

River Rafting

River rafting, or white water rafting, is a thrill-seeker’s sport that nearly everyone can enjoy, and it’s a great adventure activity for teams. But as Amazon River explorer Jerome Truran says: “You can dance with the river, but you’ve got to know the steps.” Read more on page 114.

Recommendations Spray skirt – kayak – Skirts help keep water out your kayak, and are essential if you’re going for faster sea or white water kayaking. Splash jackets are suggested for river rafting. Insulation – Depending on the season and the waters, you may want to consider a dry top, paddle jacket, wetsuit or drysuit. Gloves – Gloves keep your hands warm, give you grip on oars and paddles, and protect your hands from scratches. Go for fingerless, rubber gripped gloves for the best movement. A dry bag – Protection for your essentials and supplies Emergency kit – A knife, rope, signal device, float line, spare paddle, repair kit specific to your craft and a first aid kit.

What do you need?

A kayak, rather obviously, and a paddle. There are many to choose from Recreational kayaks come in solo, tandem or a tri-yak. Most places you go that supply kayaks will have sit-on-top kayaks, which are easy and safe and great for kayak fishing. Inflatable and folding kayaks are easy to transport and sea kayaks are specialised for rough waters. Light kayaks are less stable, but faster and have more space for storing supplies on a day-long trip. You also get models for children, and for fishing. Longer kayaks glide more smoothly but are harder

to manoeuvre. The width of the kayak determines how stable it is and how much paddling you’ll be doing. For safety, the brighter the kayak, the better!

Where to go kayaking GAUTENG Bass Lake – www.basslake.co.za or go through a Kayak School – www. canoekayak.co.za MPUMALANGA Sabie River – www.sabieriveradventures. co.za/Kayaking Blyde River Canyon and Olifants River – www.blyderiversafaris.co.za KWAZULU-NATAL St Lucia – a safari on a kayak – www.kayaksafaris.co.za

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Navigation – Hand-held, waterproof GPS devices aren’t a bad idea, although they’re pricey. Still, you’ll be glad to have one on longer trips, where the chances of getting lost are greater.

WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED? Paddles – Paddles go with your choice of craft, and the store where you buy your kayak, raft or canoe will be able to help you choose. PFD – A PFD is a “personal flotation device”, which is a life jacket or life preserver, and is very important. They’re specific to your choice of sport, so check in-store to be sure. Helmet – For most river sports, helmets are a requirement. That’s because there are obstacles both above and below water (when things go tumbling) that are harder than your skull.

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of river sports, but if you’re looking for a faster pace on the water, this is for you. That said, you can take it easy in a kayak as well, and SA has magnificent rivers suited to the sport. Take a course or two before buying your kayak and going it alone.

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charity adventure

FOR CHARITY

Canoeing the

Zambezi Text: Anzet du Plessis

Photography: “Adventure for Love” team

Their past adventures have included walking the Great Wall of China, but their latest adventure is the greatest of them all. The airstrip they landed on in rural Zambia wasn’t much by way of motivation. With just a single fellow under a tree to stamp their passports, they knew

they’d come to the right place. The charity they chose was the Conservation for Lower Zambezi (CLZ) project. Their way of contributing? Canoeing 65km of the hippo- and crocodile-infested Zambezi River, with only a local guide to help them. These six women got sponsors for

accommodation, but paid their own ﬂights to get there, and donated all the money they raised to the CLZ. The ﬁrst night was sponsored by the Kanyemba Lodge, where they were given the island lodge exclusively. This private bush lodge for six people is special to the extent that the chef comes to you by H/T-S

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When someone says, “charity work”, the image that comes to mind is of a gloomy soup kitchen in the middle of the winter, with heart-wrenching cases of poverty passing you by. But six Johannesburg women believe that this is not the only way to do charity work. With a predisposition to adventure and a will to make a difference, they have come up with more creative ways of helping those in need

speedboat to cook your meals! The adventurers needed the rest, because the next day would see them paddling a full 25km to Tsika Island. While they were prepared – albeit only mentally – for some tough canoeing, it wasn’t all work and no play. Each day they paddled until around midday, had a quick nap, and then had time to explore the area. Visiting cultural villages, going tiger ﬁshing and walking in the bush gave them a sense of what they were working for. The bushveld in this area has been subject to extreme water and soil erosion, and can be a disheartening sight. Massive, ancient trees stand with their roots exposed, and the river is only getting wider. The lodges all shut down for the rainy season, and a lot of animals drown. Anthrax,

which thrives in wet conditions, killed an elephant cow last year, leaving the baby in the care of the CLZ. Many of the islands are in danger of being completely wiped out, and the Zimbabwe side of the river has become so dangerous that guides won’t go near it for fear of arrest. So, while there were sponsorship and donations aplenty, bail money wasn’t part of the deal, and the team stayed tucked in to the Zambian side of the great river. At Tsika Island, which they were told was a rustic camp, they were treated to a comfortable stay. There was no electricity but the views more than made up for it. Here, courtesy of Tsika Lodge, they slept in beds facing the river with no windows between them and the wild

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waters of the Zambezi. Fish eagles replaced the morning cry of the cockerel and they soon understood why this is Zambia’s national bird. The next day brought another 15km on the water, and a slight detour. Along the way, ﬁshermen warned their guide that an injured hippo was on the river bank. Navigating away from this area, they were again reminded of how close to the wild they were, and how dangerous it could be. The tough day ended at Mvuu Lodge, which accommodated the group in stilted tents. Sitting outside, they could quietly appreciate the environment. This was, after all, the ﬁrst trip to Zambia for most of them. Another 15km journey awaited them on day three, and it would take them into CLZ territory.

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Main: The “Adventures for Love” team setting out on their 65km trip down the Zambezi River. Top: The team, from left to right: Carine Fraser, Michelle Diesel, Sandra Venter, Edith Phillips, Lyz Gomes and Jenny Reid Above: The guides, trained by the CLZ project, were able to tell the group about the history of the area, the vegetation, the animals and the people. For more information on the project, go to www.conservationlowerzambezi.org

Adventure

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They say that in the Zambezi you’re always near some hippos. Hippos have rather poor eyesight, which is why they are dangerous. They’re also very curious, and when guides knock on their boats they’ll pop their heads out the water to see what’s happening. Still, no bad eyesight would stop hippos from noticing the canoeing team, as they had rather unﬁttingly donned themselves in luminous orange and yellow shirts. They were told to keep the canoes a few metres apart so that if a hippo attacked, only one canoe would be tipped over! From the CLZ area, the toughest 15km awaited the team. The wind was very strong, and because they had to tack against it, constantly paddling from one side of the river to the other, they covered much more than 15km. If you weren’t paddling, you were going up river, and the wind caused such rough water that there were waves. To make matters worse, a lone hippo kept coming towards the three canoes, which seemed to be blocking its route to an exit point, and the team had to take a detour to get away from it. The last night was spent at Chongwe River

Camp, also courtesy of the owners of Tsika Island. The trip had been a success. The Zambian guides, who are largely trained by CLZ, were all well spoken and well trained. Educational initiatives have raised the number of local guides dramatically. The Lower Zambezi is pushing to become a Unesco site, so that it can get the support and attention it deserves. And the team? They’re looking for their next adventure, knowing better than most that an adventure for love can be the greatest adventure of them all.

What is CLZ? CLZ is a project for the Conservation of the Lower Zambezi. It runs anti-poaching initiatives, a large educational drive involving nature conservation, and community programmes. It works with villagers, teaching them not to be afraid of the animals. The people plant chillies around their crops to ward oﬀ elephants, and learn that when they plant, they cater not only for themselves but for the wildlife as well. H/T-S

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Above: Exhausted from a long day of rowing, the team takes a breather against the backdrop of the beautiful Zambezi river Inset: Lyzette Gomes with her Tiger Fish catch of the day! Left, top to bottom: The simple passport control table at the Royal Airstrip; accommodation along their route was sponsored by the magical lodges in the Lower Zambezi area; with rowing ending around 3h00 daily, the team had a chance to experience the vast cultural richness of the area; the stilted tents at Mvuu Lodge; the team travelled a total of 65km on the Zambezi.

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rush Adventure

RIVER RAFTING

Get the adrenaline

flowing...

Text and photography: Extreme Babe

The raft turns sideways in the current, passengers crouching wide-eyed and clinging to the side, their paddling skills forgotten. “PADDLE! Paddle right!” The command comes across the water, and the rafters try desperately to comply. They merely brush the surface, leaving small little whirly patterns in the water, which disappears quickly downstream. As the rapid feeds them straight into the oncoming wave, they seem to disappear into the surf. For a moment they are suspended in the air, before the raft flips over and the two paddlers are thrown into the foaming water. In an instant, their personal flotation devices pop them out like corks, and they turn on their backs, suddenly remembering their thorough safety briefing. When the guides pull them out of the water, and back into their waiting raft, they are elated, laughing, talking and slapping each other on the back. They

have experienced the thrill – the reason so many thousands of people venture out of the oﬃce and into the water wilderness. Western society as a whole has seen a huge perception change about adventure sports, even warranting a cover story in Time magazine in 1999: Life on the Edge – Why we take risks. With adventure sports becoming the “in thing”, and more readily available to the general public, so too have standards of safety improved. These days, even non-swimmers who have never lifted a paddle in their lives can go river rafting. The level of diﬃculty changes depending on the river and the seasons, and there is always a river trip to be found for even the most inexperienced of paddlers. There are established grades for white water rafting rivers all over the world, ranging from Grade 1, which is very easy, for a basic level of skill, to Grade 5, which is extremely challenging. H/T-S

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River rafting, or white water rafting, is a thrillseeker’s sport that nearly everyone can enjoy, and it’s a great adventure activity for teams. But as Amazon River explorer Jerome Truran says: “You can dance with the river, but you’ve got to know the steps.”

– Stuart Cameron Inglis, Johannesburg

“

What an excellent day. Lots of fun, and not too hectic!

Because a river’s water level will have an impact on the level of difficulty, participants in rafting adventures should always check with the operators about the suitability of conditions for their particular needs. The idea of a river rafting adventure is to have an awesome experience and a decent challenge, but not one that frightens participants into a state of panic .Booking a rafting trip with a professional, experienced white water rafting company ensures high standards of equipment, guides and safety. Outside Adventures offers regular rafting trips on the Highveld Crocodile River, only 45 minutes’ drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria. Both half-day trips (4,5km) for beginners and bigger groups, and full-day trips (14-18km), for more seasoned paddlers, are offered. Much of the trip runs through the vast Rhenosterspruit conservancy in the foothills of the Magaliesberg, providing unusually pristine scenery so close to

major cities. The best months are between October and April when heavy rainfalls can push water volumes up to Grade 3, requiring coordinated white-knuckle paddling in big water. Using two-seat inﬂatable rafts (aptly called Crocs) puts clients in control of their craft, which are ideal for swift, relatively narrow rivers such as the Highveld Crocodile (the crocodiles are extinct on this section!) White water rafting is very much a team activity, which is another reason this adventure is so much fun. Not only do you have to work together with your teammate, husband or wife, child or parent in negotiating the Grade 1 and 2 rapids (and sometimes Grade 3 after good rains) found on the river, but the whole group becomes collectively responsible for each other’s safety and enjoyment. With teams of people paddling like crazy at times, yelling instructions, directing the rafts away from rocks, working together,

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Quick facts Age limit: Anyone 12 and older is welcome Fitness level: Average Joe to Adrenaline Junkie, depending on the duration Included: All gear and equipment (raft, paddle, helmet, pfd (life jacket), experienced guides, a snack and drink on the water, entrance and exit fees Not included: Transport, personal extras What you need: Comfortable clothing that can get wet, sunscreen and a spirit of adventure! Available extras: Make a day of it – combine the adventure with rock climbing, hiking, or abseiling (extra costs apply) Cost: From R295 pp. Availability: Every day of the year, subject to availability – booking is essential Best season: October to April Contact: Outside Adventures on 083-264-3778, nina@outsideadventures.co.za www.outsideadventures.co.za

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Main picture: Negotiating Grades 1 and 2 rapids down the Highveld Crocodile River, in two-seater craft aptly named Crocs. Above top: A participant from FNB Commercial taking a (non-voluntary) swim! Above: Couple’s therapy in action! Insert: On your arrival the guides will kit you out in safety gear and conduct a comprehensive safety briefing. Let the adventure begin...

and water, laughter and fun “splashing” everywhere, it is easy to see why white water rafting is one of the most popular adventure experiences out there. Spending time with colleagues, mates, family and even strangers will do wonders for the team spirit and the collective group morale. Although Outside Adventures concentrates on the Highveld Crocodile River, due to its accessibility to the city folk of Gauteng, there are excursions to other rivers on request, as part of the company’s tailor made 4x4 Adventure Safaris all over southern Africa.

LEADERS I N LEISURE

60 Y EA R S

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junkyard Adventure

CAR BUILT FROM JUNK

Victor the

travel buggie

Text: Melissa Andrews Photography: Christopher List

After roughly five years of adventure, Chris and Elayne Clash ended up in Somerset West, where I spotted their unusual vehicle, Victor, in a shopping mall parking lot. In fact, that’s how most people get talking to the Australian couple, as

Victor the travel buggie is certainly an eye-catcher. “We started our adventure by thinking we could build our car from bits and pieces with the help of friends, using anything we could ﬁnd, such as junk metal and old parts,” says Chris.

“We did it with our own hands and our own skills, so that we could spark the imagination of others.” Despite appearances, Victor is not a 4x4 but a two-wheel-drive vehicle, but he’s been everywhere a 4x4 can go – including the Americas, Europe, Asia H/T-S

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An Australian engineer and his wife have driven through 86 countries, covering more than 200 000km in Victor, a buggy made out of junkyard scrap that they hope will be accepted by the Guinness Book of Records as the “most travelled home-made vehicle”

and both east and central Africa. The car was constructed from old ARB bull bars, welded together to create its unique shape. “The car itself is a message, like a sculpture, that attracts people,” says Chris. “We started oﬀ with an engineering concept to create a comfortable car, with compliant suspension and so on, but Victor overtook us, in character and personality! “My mission as an engineer is to prove that you can build something like

this organically to the point that it has a character of its own.” Weighing only 1330kg, compared with 4x4s that can weigh up to 4000kg fully loaded, Victor runs on bio-diesel (waste vegetable oil mixed with diesel). It has no heater or air conditioning and relies on “thermal mass” to keep cool. Using less than eight litres of diesel per 100km, and travelling at 85km/h, Chris and Elayne are not only ambassadors of the imagination, but also of the environment. And while others rush past, Chris and Elayne enjoy the ride. The Engine is a 3litre Mazda truck engine from 1982 that they bought for US$147. “Basically we’ve cleaned it up, got new rings and bearings and it’s a credit to Mazda that it’s been ticking away for 5 years,” Chris said. Everything except the roof tent is second-hand, and in travel mode the vehicle is packed to the point where “you can’t put anything more in”. The eco-conscious couple also recharge everything from their car, don’t have a fridge, and cook using a tiny petroleum stove that uses less than two litres of fuel per month. They

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collect rainwater and use less than seven litres of water per day, compared to the 147 litres used by the average Australian. What’s more, Chris and Elayne fervently believe in buying local, seasonal produce, and supplement this with whatever Chris can catch with his ﬁshing rod. “We’re trying to be low-impact people,” says Chris. “We’re rebuilding what we have and recycling what we can. “Our headlights are held on by string, but they still work. Since we don’t travel at night, this isn’t an issue. We want to have a vehicle that is sustainable and will inspire adventure travelling.” Of course, being eco-friendly shows you a whole diﬀerent side of things. Chris, a born storyteller, recalls an incident when the couple were on their way to Labrador, Canada. “You have to travel about 1500km along the Trans-Labradoran highway, which is just a gravel road without many fuel stops. To get there, we took a ferry from Cartwright to Goose Bay. “We didn’t have much money at the time so we asked the chef at our lodgings if there was any food left over. M/T +

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Main: Chris and Elayne Clash arrive in Tableview with Victor, the Junkyard Buggy. Above: Victor makes it to the Congo River crossing!

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junkyard Adventure

We got all the food scraps, and then asked if it was possible to get any used vegetable oil. They gave us ﬁve 20-litre drums of veggie oil, which we strapped to the back of Victor before heading down the highway. “The highway was surrounded by a vast expanse of trees, thousands of kilometres of prime forest. We had to pull over to decant our vegetable oil into the fuel tanks, so we were parked on the side of the road to strain it, and we couldn’t avoid spilling some. “All of a sudden we see this old bakkie and a Canadian guy pulls up. “He says, ‘My, that’s a mighty strange vehicle. You’re not from around these parts are you?’ “So I tell him we’re from Australia. ‘You’re a long way from home,’ the old timer says. ‘I’m going to give you some free advice. There’s only one thing these grizzly bears like more than

peanut butter and that’s fish and chip oil. You guys are like a great big bear burger on wheels!’ “We also met a couple travelling in Tagoma, Tanzania, who are off to America in a Land Cruiser. Just by talking to us they took 980kg of stuff off their car, and they’re planning to create their next vehicle as an environmentally-sensitive car.” Chris and Elayne say that part of the reason for creating Victor was to introduce a stepping stone for those who have a spark of adventure but are daunted by the cost of vehicles. “We spent about US$5000 (excluding the tent), and at the end of the day created something that is really at a low-entry price. And over five years of travel through some of the world’s toughest terrain, our rebuild value has been less than a third of the vehicle’s value,” says Chris. H/T-S

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Above: Camping on the side of the road in Togo. Inset: A homemade rear-view mirror with spikes on, so that people won’t lean against it! Bottom right: Chris Clash at the equator in Gabon.

stop to talk to anyone who is interested. Chris advises travellers to remember that they are ambassadors for their country, no matter how frustrated they get. “You need to inspire others by your example, your passions, and your heritage, and hopefully build bridges between people.” Elayne relates a moving story of a couple they met in Iran. “We couldn’t find a hotel and were at a stop street when a couple on a pushbike pulled up, with the lady on the back with her legs in callipers, and asked us if they could help. They told us to follow them to a hotel. The first one was closed, the second one didn’t have parking, and in the end they just told us to follow them. We went through back streets, not knowing where we were going, and then came to these big doors that looked as though they hadn’t been opened for years. “They told us to drive in and suddenly we were driving through a vegetable garden at the back of their house. We stayed the night with them in their

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Top left: Victor gets stuck in soft sand. It took 300m of winching and six hours of digging in 40C heat to get him out! Top right, top to bottom: Fully stocked for any eventuality, Victor is equipped with old ammo boxes full of spares; The 3.0-litre Mazda truck engine has taken them through thick and thin – all on biodiesel; The steering wheel is fully detachable, so Victor is adaptable to left-hand or right-hand drive countries; Their old-school GPS still gets Chris and Elayne where they want to be.

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“For us, the message is about giving to others and causing hundreds of smiles around the world as people realise they have an opportunity to do something from a low-entry point. “Some people spend more on options for their offroad vehicles than we spent on the whole car! “Throwing my design into the arena has inspired people to know that they can do something similar, whether it’s running their car on vegetable oil, rebuilding things, or using their skills to create something. “So many youngsters have come up to us and said, ‘Cool car – where can we buy it?’ We say, ‘You have to build it yourself, using your own skills.’ ” Chris believes that car manufacturers are missing out on this niche market for an adventure vehicle that has a low impact on the environment, is frugal on fuel and can be serviced anywhere in the world. The intrepid couple arrange talks and workshops at schools and universities to spread their message, and happily

Adventure

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junkyard Adventure

Top left: Victor’s interior is decorated with memorabilia. Above: An extra jerry can is decorated with number plates from each country visited. The plates are surprisingly hard to come by. Bottom left: With no doors, getting into Victor requires some degree of flexibility. Inset: Chris and Elayne cook with a tiny paraffin stove – which can also run on diesel. small house, which only had two rooms. She cooked a meal of fish and flat bread, along with greens from the garden and wanted to share it all with us, even though they had so little. They had a small photo album with only five pictures from their wedding inside, and gave us one, so we wouldn’t forget them.” An important part of the couple’s mission is to raise money for Cancer for Kids and the Epilepsy Foundation of Victoria in Australia. What makes this trip even more extraordinary is that Elayne herself suffers from hormonal epilepsy, which struck when she was 30. “There are not enough people supporting this cause,” Elayne says. “We plan to donate what we can and will auction off Victor to raise additional funds when we get back home.” Currently in Namibia, the couple plan to head up the west coast of Africa and cross into Europe. The route is by no means set. In fact, they intend to visit at least 140 countries by the time they head back to Australia.

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To follow the self-styled “Crazy Travellers” visit www.ouradventurebug.com

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2012/06/20 3:22 PM

MAZDA BT-50

Rebel with a cause?

Mazda’s venerable BT-50 bakkie – formerly called the B-Series and later the Drifter – has always been a solid and dependable choice in the onetonner segment. Now the all-new BT-50, manufactured at Ford Motor Company’s state-of-the-art facility in Silverton, Pretoria, is due to land on local showroom floors in August. This new pick-up looks set to be a bit of a rebel in its class “Freedom is always, and exclusively, freedom for the one who thinks differently” – Rosa Luxemburg Mazda’s all-new BT-50 one-ton bakkie range is a bakkie with a difference – one that makes a statement and is, well… a bit of a rebel in the popular double cab bakkie class. You see, in between the plethora of double cab and one-tonner options in our market, it is very easy to disappear in the masses. Sure, most of these vehicles are highly capable, but bland and reliable are more apt descriptions than daring, different and emotive. This is where the all-new BT-50 fits into the picture. Mazda’s corporate Zoom-

Zoom philosophy, which refers to the emotion of motion ﬁrst experienced as a child, runs thick through the new BT-50’s proverbial veins. According to the Mazda BT-50’s chief designer, Roy Yanagisawa, the new bakkie was developed as an “active lifestyle vehicle”. So the Mazda design team’s focus was also on existing car owners, and not necessarily only on current bakkie owners. “We wanted a pick-up that traditional car lovers would be deeply pleased with and proud to own. So we targeted a 124

unique and expressive design that people would ﬁnd desirable. At the same time we wanted it to be seen as strong and dependable,” says Yanagisawa. The result is an athletic design with crisp and sporty lines that clearly are part of the modern Mazda DNA, and the Mazda passenger car range. The dynamic and dramatic wedgeshaped proportions, especially at the front, along with the boomerang-style headlights, give the new BT-50 a modern and sleek appearance. In fact, that frontend styling rather resembles a modern

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Main: Mazda’s new BT-50 hits the showroom floors this August, and will be available in single, Freestyle and double-cab models. Above: The new interior is sportier, and the top of the range gets all the luxury bells and whistles you’d expect. Right: Sharing its underpinnings with the Ford Ranger, the BT-50 can haul more than a ton of whatever needs hauling, and tow up to 3350kg (model dependent). sports utility vehicle (SUV) and not a hard-working bakkie. At the back, the taillights are stretched horizontally, reaching around the corners and across the tailgate – a style first in its segment. This ensures a sporty and refined rear design that is similar to those in some premium SUVs. The interior also has a more sporty and personal feel to complement the dynamic exterior design, says Mazda. The aim was also to create a comfortable space to rival Mazda’s current passenger car standards. So up front the sporty instrument panel is designed to wrap around the driver and provide an environment that supports enthusiastic driving. Top models get all the luxurious bells and whistles you’d expect to find in a premium bakkie.

earlier this year. So, you get a tough ladder-frame chassis that is combined with double wishbones up front and traditional leaf springs at the back. Armed with this hardware, developed in Australia, the new BT-50 can carry up to 1077kg and tow up to 3350kg, depending on the model. The new Mazda BT-50 will be available with three engine options. For petrol heads there is a 2,5-litre four-cylinder 16-valve mill that produces 122 kW of power and 226 Nm of torque. A modern 2198cc four-cylinder turbodiesel engine is available in two levels of tune: The entry-level version delivers 88 kW and 285 Nm of torque, and the second version has 110 kW and 375 Nm of torque at just 1500r/min. However, the cream of the engine crop is the ﬁve-cylinder, 3,2-litre

“Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man’s character, give him power” – Abraham Lincoln Right, so now we know the BT-50 is, to a large extent, aimed at the leisure market. Does that mean it has gone all soft under that sleek new skin? The new BT-50 shares its underpinnings with the new Ford Ranger, which has been selling up a mild tornado since becoming available

turbodiesel mill. This engine boasts 147 kW of power and a massive 470 Nm of torque at only 1500r/min. Those numbers not only sound good – in its Ford Ranger application, this oilburner has already received heaps of praise for its power and reﬁnement. Gearbox variations range from 125

manual five-speed or six-speed to a smooth and refined new six-speed automatic for the range-topping models. So, far from going soft, the BT-50 is now tougher and more powerful than ever. And while it has more horses under the bonnet, it is also a lot safer than the model it is replacing. ABS brakes, an electronic stability program (ESP) with dynamic skid control (DSC), up to seven airbags, hill descent control, hill launch assist, roll-over mitigation, adaptive load control and trailer sway control are standard on top models. The new Mazda BT-50 range will be comprehensive when it lands on local showroom floors in August. It will include single cab, Freestyle cab and double cab derivatives, all available with the engine options mentioned above. Three specification levels will be available: SL, SLX and SLE. Although final pricing has not yet been confirmed, you can expect it to be right in the mix of things with its cousin, the wellpriced Ford Ranger. The standard prices will include a five-year/90 000km service plan. A comprehensive four-year/120 000km warranty and a three-year/unlimited kilometre roadside assistance plan are part of the deal. This is the all-new Mazda BT-50 – a bakkie that is tough, reliable and powerful and, at the same time, modern, sleek, safe, luxurious and good-looking. Yes, this new BT-50 is a bit of a rebel in its segment. And it has one major “cause” behind it, too!

Adventure

guide

rail Adventure Text and photography: Alan Saunders

HISTORICAL HEXPASS

An old section of the original railway line in the Hex River Valley has been saved as a unique tourist attraction, in which a converted tractor pulls the carriages. Alan Saunders tells us more

In the 1870s, it became impossible for the slow moving ox wagons to meet the task of transporting goods from Cape Town to the fast-growing diamond fields of Kimberley. The Cape government had to find an alternative method, and the solution lay in a rail link between Table Bay and the diamond fields. Ox wagons could transport a two-ton load at two miles an hour, compared with a steam train’s capability of carrying 200 tons at 20 miles an hour. Building a railway line, however, was no easy task. Earlier attempts to find a route

through the formidable Cape mountains had failed. The big problem was that a maximum gradient of 1 in 40 had to be kept in mind, which meant that over a distance of 40m, the railway line could not climb by more than a metre! Various options were looked at and eventually the route from Worcester through the picturesque Hex River Valley and then up onto the Touws River plateau was selected as being the most suitable. The original width of the railway that had been built between Cape Town and H/T-S

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Unique link to the past

Wellington was the standard European gauge of 4’ 8”. This wide gauge would, however, not suit the smaller radius of the curves that would be required through the mountains, and gave rise to the unique narrower Cape gauge of 3’ 6”. The mountain range between De Doorns and Touws River was the most diﬃcult section to cross, but Wells Hood found a route that would snake through the mountains to the east of the valley and up onto the plateau, with gradients of not more than 1:40 and curves that could be handled by the locomotives of the time.

The railway line between Cape Town and Kimberley was completed in 1877, and steam trains finally replaced the ox wagons. For more than 100 years the section between De Doorns and Touws River carried heavy traffic, with more than 35 trains passing through every day at its peak. The very short curves and heavy gradient necessitated the line to be upgraded in 1929, and this included the building of a new tunnel to accommodate the larger locomotives. The line was electrified in 1945, and in the 1980s the section was once again

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upgraded with a series of tunnels through the mountains. The longest was more than 13km. The route was shortened by about 8km, and there was a substantial reduction in curvature, and a more even gradient. In 1997, it came to Stephaan Jordaan’s attention that the authorities intended to dismantle the old railway line between De Doorns and Matroosberg. After much discussion and negotiation, it was eventually agreed that the rail would not be removed and Stephaan received permission to use the section as a tourist attraction. In a very ingenious way, he modiﬁed a Fordson tractor and two carriages to run on the rails and in 2002 the ﬁrst visitors were taken up the pass. Laetitia Jordaan was our guide, with Daniel driving the Fordson and Hannes controlling the brakes on the last carriage. The railway line runs through a beautiful natural area, and every so often we stopped to enable Laetitia to share her knowledge and experience, both of the plants and the history of the South African railways. Various indigenous plants and shrubs were pointed out, even a “lost” camel thorn tree, which would normally not be found in the area but had made its stand in the Boland along this lonely stretch of railway line. Old bread ovens and caves used by the workers on the line were also pointed out. We were very fortunate to experience this unique Hexpas Express. What impressed us most during these stops was the silence! The thundering noise and belching smoke of the large steam locomotives taking their loads up the 1:40 gradient has disappeared forever. The railway cottages in which many people shared their love, hope and despair have been broken down. Only a few remain, in which locals have taken up residence. The trains no longer shunt onto the sidings at Osplaas and Tunnel to wait patiently for the fast-moving express or another goods train to pass trough. According to Laetitia, at one stage 13 railway cottages stood at the Tunnel station, but nothing remains of the homes M/T +

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Main: Trains no longer run along the original railway line through the Hex River Valley, but a section of the line has been saved. Tourists can now explore the region with the help of a converted tractor and a couple of carriages that run on this portion of the track. Left: Visitors are accompanied by a guide who knows all about the mountain plants, so the trip is very informative. Below: Due to the winding nature of the railway line, standard 4’8” gauge tracks were unsuitable, and the unique Cape gauge of 3’6” was used instead when the line was built in the late 1800s.

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where weary railwaymen returned to rest after a day’s work somewhere on the line. The tunnel was also used to initiate new steam locomotive drivers into the art of taking the heavy loads up the mountain pass. Because of the weight, a second locomotive was coupled to the back of the train at De Doorns to assist in getting the train up the pass. This was called “banking”, and the back locomotive was the “banker”. The senior driver was naturally in control of the locomotive up front and when his locomotive left the tunnel, and at the point when he knew the second locomotive was well into the tunnel, he closed down the steam regulator of his engine. It was then up to the rookie driver to keep the train moving in all the smoke that was being caught up in the tunnel. The story goes that one day an obstinate rookie driver simply closed down his steam regulator as well, and ordered his ﬁreman out of the cab with him. Together they walked through the tunnel to the front locomotive. The rookie informed the senior driver that he could do the “pulling” himself, as he was no longer going to do any “pushing and shoving”. The two became the best of friends, and both eventually ended their careers on the SAR as elite drivers on the mainline express passenger trains. The new rail line, with its modern tunnels built in the 1980s, snakes through

the mountain on one side of the valley, with only the odd train passing through. You hardly hear them, because today they are being hauled by electric locomotives. If ever you have the opportunity, take time oﬀ and visit the Hexpas Express. And when you sit listening to the “clicketyclack” of the wheels as they cross the links on the rail, spare a thought for those who earned their keep on the railways, through sweat and labour. At the time when this line was built, there was no large machinery to move the rocks and soil and dig the tunnels. It was done by manual labour with pick, shovel, wheelbarrow and sweat! In maintaining the line, ballast was worked in between the wooden sleepers with ballast forks and specially rounded picks. Today the hard-working yet singing labourers, bending their backs, have been replaced by large and noisy machines that thump in the ballast – and it is not as neat and tidy as it used to be! We read the names of the important individuals who planned and built the railway lines, but those who dug, toiled and sweated in the sun remain nameless. Those men, together with the steam locomotive drivers, conductors, stationmasters, gangers and many others who helped maintain the line, played an important role over the 100 years during which this section was an integral part of

one of the main arteries of transport in SA. This unique section of rail that has been maintained so well by private individuals is part of our national heritage and should be declared a national monument. Sadly, Stephaan Jordaan passed away last year. However, his family, who continue to farm in the area, is just as passionate as he was in wanting to preserve this interesting part of SA’s history. The trip from Hexpas Siding to Tunnel Station and back runs daily but booking is essential. It lasts for approximately 4½ hours and costs R120 per adult and R60 per child. In addition to the train trip, the family runs five fully equipped, self-catering cottages sleeping four people each, 5km outside De Doorns, with breathtaking views over the Hex River Valley and the majestic Matroosberg. For the off-road enthusiast, the 15km Hex River Klipspringer 4x4 trail through the Kwadouw Mountain range offers beautiful scenery. Other activities include the Botterboom hiking trail and the Two Tunnel mountain bike trail for those who want to travel “under their own steam”.

For more information Contact details: Laetitia Jordaan 083-292-0348, e-mail: info@ impangelemountainlodge.co.za, Web site: www.impangelemountainlodge.co.za H/T-S

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Left: The Hexpas Express runs daily from Hexpas Siding to Tunnel Station and back. Booking is essential. A ticket costs R120 for adults and R60 for children. Above: The trains of yesteryear. The line was upgraded in 1929 and electrified in 1945. It was upgraded again in the 1980s, when a series of tunnels were built.

* Model shown with optional sports bar

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A WOMAN’S PERSPECTIVE

A challenging

experience

Desire Pringle’s husband, Huntly, had a dream. For a long time he had wanted to tour the Northern Cape and Namibia on his KTM bike. After Huntly had made numerous unsuccessful attempts to get a group together, Desire decided she would be his back-up and help him reach his goal. She would drive behind him in their trusty Mitsubishi Colt 2.8l TDi – all 7000km of the trip. What a woman won’t do for her man!

We had it all planned. We would sleep in the back section of the Colt, which had been fitted out with a mattress, drawers, lights and a dual battery system. We bought a tent that could be attached to the vehicle and fitted a longrange fuel tank and 60-litre water tank. We invested in recovery gear (with the exception of a winch, unfortunately), a fridge in the extended cab, Frontrunner roof racks over the cab and canopy, Camil front suspension, heavy duty leaf springs and shock absorbers at the rear. We also had a trailer in which to transport the bike on the long, unchallenging stretches of

the journey. We were all set. We left Pretoria and stayed over at Red Sands in Kuruman. The next day we unloaded the KTM – on the other side of Hotazel. Hubby was soon getting to grips with the thick sand. From behind the wheel of the Colt, it was a breeze! We reached Molopo Lodge in the late afternoon with hubby looking slightly the worse for wear. He actually had trouble walking that night! Crossing into Namibia was a great relief. The sand roads there are in such great condition they are referred to as desert

highways. We followed a twin track road in the sand for most of the following day. The trick for both of us was momentum. There was a nice long, steep dune which I remember caused some people to get stuck in the sand when we were last there. Pity that no one could hear me whooping with sheer joy as the Colt sailed up and over the soft sand with ease – sheer exhilaration! I think I was starting to get the city out of my system. The next day we off loaded the bike just outside Windhoek at the beginning of the Khomas Hochland mountain range. The H/T-S

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Text and photography: Desire Pringle

distance to Swakopmund was about 350km with no fuel stops, As per the plan, I would drive quite a distance behind the bike, carrying the fuel. The bike’s tank would be run to empty and then hubby would wait for me to come along. I initially thought that such a long trip may be a bit lonely to drive but this was shaping up nicely! Being on my own was pretty nice. I could stop when I wanted to, take photos when I wanted to, and respond to nature’s call when I wanted to! I chose the driving line, when to select 4WD...everything was MY decision. No interference and manly advice from HWAMBO (He Who Always Must

Be Obeyed). Along the way we visited the “haunted-house” some 40km out of Windhoek. It is a strange deserted building that dates back to about 1911, Germanic in style, but utilising copious amounts of corrugated iron in the construction of the upper landing and the roof. While the house has fallen into disrepair, it is nevertheless a majestic structure and has a commanding view of the surrounding hills. Road conditions were rough and rocky in parts, but the drive was great. Once the mountain pass was behind us there were large numbers of springbok, chasing through the grasslands, which were especially lush after the unusually heavy rains. There were record rains in 2011, resulting in a state of emergency being declared earlier in the year in some northern areas of the country. We stayed over in Swakopmund for a day and two nights to recover a bit. Swakopmund is a wonderful blend of German colonial architecture and modern buildings such as the Kristall Galerie (a museum of crystals and semi-precious stones). The trailer’s lights needed to be repaired, and we had to get more netting to protect the vehicle from stones bouncing off the trailer. Our original netting was shredded and we were heading for rougher areas. On Day Eight we unloaded the bike just after Henties Bay. We had never seen so

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much greenery in this area before and there was still a lot of water around. The dirt road to Khorixas through Damaraland was pretty much another desert highway – fast and easy-going in a spectacular wilderness area. We loaded up the bike at Khorixas and continued on the tarred road to Outjo where we stayed at one of our favourite places – the lodge at Oppiklippe. It boasts the most wonderful bushveld scenery and the most spectacular sunsets and sunrises imaginable. I was really getting excited about what lay ahead. It had been relatively easy going up to now but in a couple of days things would change dramatically. HWAMBO was no longer saddle sore but things were going to get very rough for him, too! We travelled from Outjo to Ruacana Falls on the tarred road towards Opuwo in Kaokoland – nice undulating hills and rocky outcrops along the way. Instead of turning off to Opuwo we continued on the gravel road to Ruacana. This portion of the trip was rather unspectacular compared with the scenery earlier in the trip. We had to travel 140km extra in Owamboland when the only two autotellers at a small shop in Ruacana turned out to be broken and incompatible respectively. Evidence of the flooding was still visible. Developments in Owamboland were also quite disappointing as inhabitants M/T +

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Opposite: Top left: Sunset from Oppiklippe looking over the Outjo plains. Above: Top right: Damaraland along the C35 near Khorixas – quite a stretch on a bike, don’t you think?

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are increasingly discarding traditional construction techniques for their homes and using corrugated iron instead. Ruacana Falls, though, were quite spectacular. Photos can’t do it justice. From Ruacana we travelled via Swartbooisdrif to a point between Okangwati and Van Zyl’s Pass. Things then got really interesting. At the first hill after Ruacana, which required 4WD low range, there was a signpost indicating a speed limit of 120km. Either someone had a sense of humour or was hopelessly optimistic! Halfway between Okangwati and Van Zyl’s Pass, with light fading fast, we camped overnight in the bush. The going became really technical and tough. Within a short while we had to pack rocks in the rough and steep gullies on the way to the pass. The trailer got stuck in one of these gullies and we had to transfer all its contents to the Colt. Apart from the difficulty of the steep decline, the KTM could not be ridden on these sections at sufficient speed to cool the radiator as it lacks an electronic fan. The trailer scraped so often on the rocks that the rear light and number plate holders ended up being bent from

vertical to horizontal. As a result, the wiring was again damaged. Exhausted, we reached the campsite at the top of Van Zyl’s Pass. While it was still relatively early, we wisely decided to stay overnight in the community-run campsite before tackling the pass. We were assigned a wonderful site under a massive acacia tree next to a riverbed. Hot water was provided by means of a “donkie” – a wood-fired geyser system often used in rural areas. It was great, and the camp was very well run. Interestingly, the last person to have stayed there, according to the visitor’s book, was in January 2011. Furthermore, we had not seen a single vehicle since turning off at Okangwati, and this had also been the case on the trip between Ruacana and Swartbooisdrif. It was sheer bliss – fantastic scenery, clean air, no noise... I wished we could stay forever. On the trip from Van Zyl’s Pass to Onjuva, we soon discovered why the pass had earned such notoriety. We decided it was important to get the vehicle through in one piece and to worry about the trailer later. H/T-S

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Top left: Desire’, having just completed Van Zyl’s Pass in the Mitsubishi Colt. Top right: Desire’ and the trusty Colt begin the final serious descent of the pass. Insert: In some places the trailer had to be detached and lifted over the rocks. Bottom right: One of the many steep and rocky descents on Van Zyl’s Pass.

Left: View of the Kunene River near Ruacana Falls.

blisters on my hands. I think this was probably something that few women had done before. The sheer exhilaration of achieving something I had dreamed of, and doing it well, with the faithful Colt performing like a star – it just couldn’t get better than this! The journey from the bottom of Van Zyl’s Pass through Marienfluss to Onjuva was tricky for the bike because of the thick sand in some sections (but good fun in the Colt!). It was a spectacular drive. The “fairy circles” (red sand circles in the grasslands in which nothing grows) were clearly evident. Scientists are at a loss to explain the phenomenon as there is nothing wrong with the soil quality in these barren areas found in the lush grasslands of the Marienfluss. Despite the grass seed net, we still had to check the radiator from time to time because of the massive amount of grass seeds in the area. The following day we headed to Opuwa, through Kaokoland, with the scenery changing rapidly. It was amazing to see springbok running alongside the bike at quite a speed and then leaping a couple of metres into the air and suddenly changing direction. Sadly our journey was coming to an end. After Opuwo, we stayed overnight in Otjwarongo and then travelled on to Grunau, and then home to Pretoria. After repairing the trailer’s wiring once

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Overall

As usual, the scenery in Namibia was spectacular and diverse – from desert, to mountains, to the Atlantic Ocean, to lush grasslands to dense bushveld, and more. As someone once said, Namibia is a photographer’s dream – almost every moment is a National Geographic moment. But there were times when the going became so arduous that we felt we were on a massive team-building exercise, and we wondered about the wisdom of undertaking the adventure. At one stage I even thought I heard hubby muttering that he would have preferred to be “relaxing” at work. Nevertheless, it all turned out really well in the end – a truly unforgettable and challenging experience. The total distance covered by the Colt was 7000km, while the KTM covered about 2000km. Huntly is going to struggle to top this trip. Now that I have tasted adventure, experienced real off-roading and realised that I can actually do these things on my own, I’m hooked! So watch out, HWAMBO! M/T +

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The going was exceptionally slow and we frequently had to pack more rocks into the track to get the Colt through with the trailer. When it was very steep HWAMBO occasionally directed me on the line to follow. At times I had to haul myself under the vehicle to pack rocks. It took hours to travel the pass’s length of some 10km. Just when we thought we were at the end, we were confronted by the steepest and longest section of all. Hubby put his foot down to steady the bike and found only a deep hole. He toppled over and nearly broke a thumb. Huntly manhandled the bike down to a safe level and I had to get the Colt down, rock by rock and ledge by ledge. Even with difflock and 4WD low-range engaged, the Colt still slipped sideways occasionally. The rocks were so large that at one stage I had one of the front wheels a metre off the ground, with the opposing rear wheel almost equally lifted. “If my friends could see me now!” I kept thinking. Thankfully, I made it through with no damage to the Colt. In accordance with tradition, we wrote our names, date and vehicles used (the Colt and the KTM) on a flat stone and threw it on the pile that has accumulated since the pass’s inception some 35 years ago. I truly felt as though I had accomplished something quite remarkable. I had

again, we loaded up the bike and had a pleasant and uneventful ride home on a tarred road that was generally in excellent condition. The only unpleasant incident on our journey involved a nun in Opuwo. I was towing the trailer around a concrete island at a small shopping centre (parking was a problem with a trailer), and she refused to move her 4WD vehicle aside for just 10 seconds to allow me through. When hubby went over to her on the bike she refused to budge, and as the conversation became more heated, she got onto her mobile phone. It was not clear whether she was contacting the local traffic officer or had a hotline to a much higher Authority, but we decided to take no chances. So I backed the trailer up around two tight corners and in the process delayed us, the nun and the other waiting vehicles. It was at that stage that two things began to make sense – firstly, Father Hackett’s aversion to nuns in the hilarious TV series, Father Ted, and secondly, the popularity of the 24-hour nightclub in Opuwo, which is even open on Sundays. To be fair, Huntly’s attempted intervention probably made matters worse as by this stage of the trip he had begun to resemble a character in the Mad Max movies!

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On two

A LIFETIME OF MEMORIES AND CAMARADERIE

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We had it all mapped out. We would go from Kloofendal on the West Rand to KwaZulu-Natal, then over Sani Pass, through Lesotho to Katse Dam, and down to Port Elizabeth. Then, we’d tackle the Baviaanskloof to Uniondale, on to George and Cape Town, and back up to Johannesburg through the Karoo. We wanted to use gravel roads as far as possible, and were ready for a great adventure. The drama started the moment we left Johannesburg, and the challenges wouldn’t stop until we got home. We could write a book on the first day alone! Flicker wires caused an electrical short on Hermien’s 650, I was stung by a wasp, we got horribly lost and a chain tensioner on Dewald’s bike nearly caused a serious incident. It was everything but a smooth start. When we arrived at Himeville in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands for our first overnight stop, we had difficulty in finding camping

Text and photography: Norman Hartman

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As a gift to their son, Dewald, who was starting university the next year, Norman and Hermien decided on a motorcycle tour of SA. Their bikes were a BMW 1200 GS, 650 and 650 Dakar. Dewald and his girlfriend, Courtney, would ride the latter

Main: Two BMWs stand ready for a test of wills – on a tour through SA. Three bikes set off from Johannesburg and only two came back! Above: The touring group, from the left: Dewald Hartman and his girlfriend, Courtney, and Dewald’s parents, Hermien and Norman. Burgersdorp Dam. Campsites were again clean, with decent ablutions. If you call at Burgersdorp, don’t miss the museum. For a small town, it has an interesting collection that is definitely worth a visit.Then it was down the R344 to Adelaide. This is mostly a good gravel road and the scenery along the way, passing Molteno, Sterkstroom and Tarkastad, was great. We made it all the way to Grahamstown, where we set up camp for the night. The caravan park in Grahamstown is the only one in southern Africa where we’ve found each campsite allocated its own private bathroom and kitchen facilities! This, and the large shady trees, has led us to consider using it as a base on future trips. We did, however, have interesting encounters with a company that was having its staff Christmas party at the campsite, but that is a story for another day. The following morning we took an easy ride on the N2 to Port Elizabeth, and on to Jeffreys Bay. The caravan park at Jeffreys was full, so we ended up staying at Aston Bay. The facilities were very basic but functional, though we were mosquito fodder for the half-hour before sunset!

Baviaanskloof Pass and the people that ride there On the schedule for the next day was to be another highlight – conquering the

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Baviaanskloof mountain pass. Compared to Lesotho, the pass was in good condition. I’d read about the river crossings, but as it wasn’t really the rainy season I wasn’t too concerned. We entered the kloof from the Patensie side, and found that most river crossing were dry and cemented, offering no difficulty. We were aiming to spend the night at Uniondale, so we were pushing hard to get through in time. Everything was about to change, however. Approaching the Smitskraal stream, I was in the lead. There was quite a bit of activity around, and a biker was carrying his panniers through the stream. A good few 4x4s were parked there, watching. My first mistake was that I didn’t stop to check conditions! The river was quite deep, nearly covering the cylinder heads of the 1200. Halfway through there were some large boulders under water, and I dropped my bike. My left leg was pinned under the bike, and I needed help in getting free. My wife was right behind me, and when she saw me fall she dropped her bike right next to mine. My bike, rather surprisingly, started up again immediately and I pushed it through the stream. Hermien’s bike, however, had got water in the cylinder, headlamp and flickers, and it wouldn’t start. We had to strip the whole bike to get it going again, with the 4x4 audience videotaping the entire two-hour ordeal. We were told later M/T +

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facilities. Eventually we found a site at Backpackers Lodge, which was pleasant. We rested up, and by morning we were ready to conquer Sani Pass and travel through Lesotho to Katse Dam for our next stop. I’ve always toured with soft luggage, but for this trip I decided to spoil myself and fit panniers. What I didn’t realise, however, was that I should have taken the bike on an off-road test ride with the panniers fully loaded. We made it up most of Sani Pass, but the last bend before you reach the highest pub in Africa was badly eroded. I had to cross over large rocks, but because of the weight at the back I couldn’t keep the front wheel down, and I dropped my bike. Had it not been for the panniers, however, the bike would probably have fallen on top of me, and I would not be sharing my story! I suffered a sore wrist, and over the next few days I discovered the effectiveness of Nurofen. Any bumps and corrugations were most unwelcome. Only when I got home did I discover that the wrist was, in fact, cracked. Still, we celebrated in high spirits when we arrived at the Altitude Pub at the top of Sani Pass. We had a great meal and a beer before tackling the Black Mountain Pass. There were some really tough sections, but we got through without incident. It had been getting steadily darker, however, and because of the poor road we decided to camp under the stars for the night. We stopped at a small village and asked permission to camp next to the road by a stream. The villagers welcomed us with open arms, and this night was one of the highlights of our tour. It was bitterly cold, and a resident brought us firewood and dried cattle dung to make a fire. This set the tone for all our encounters with the people of Lesotho. We were there for two days, and while my ability to speak SeSotho helped, the people were truly kind and friendly. The roads in Lesotho are unforgettable, and this is certainly a destination I will visit again. If you’re partial to twisties and winding gravel roads, this is the place to go. And the Katse Dam is really something to see. From there we took the tar road to the Ficksburg border post. Both the Sani and Ficksburg border crossings were quick and painless. Back in SA, we camped at the Ficksburg caravan park, which has large trees, an abundance of shade and clean ablutions. The next day was not as pleasant. We left Ficksburg for Burgersdorp in heavy rain. This wasn’t fun, as the road between Ladybrand and Zastron is notorious for its massive, never-ending potholes. When filled up with rain they were difficult to spot, and strong cross winds only made the riding more difficult. Fortunately, we made it through without mishaps, and set up camp at the

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Above: Our campsite under the stars in Lesotho; we were caught by the light, and had to set up camp. But, as fate would have it, this was one of the most memorable nights of our tour!

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A good Samaritan … or four

We were stuck. We ﬁddled endlessly, but there was nothing we could do. A half-hour later, salvation came in the form of four friendly bikers, who stopped to help us. We combined our tools and got the plugs out – ﬁnally! We started up the 1200, and all we heard was the terrible sound of crunching metal. We knew what had happened. I’d drowned the Boxer engine, and damaged a valve or something. This was the end of my tour. We would need help in getting the bike to the BMW agency in George – a good 350km

away. Our four Samaritans – Sampie Scholz, Gus du Toit, Neil Crouse and Dawie de Villiers – sprang into action. They were due to camp at a farm about 15km away. They would set off, offload, and ask the farmer to fetch me with his bakkie. Then we could regroup at the camp and devise a plan to get my bike to George. We were touched by their willingness to help. While they were away, our faith in humanity was strengthened even further. A young couple stopped to ask if we needed help. They offered – should the farmer not be able to fetch me – to offload their fully stacked Toyota 4x4 single cab at their camp site (45km away), and come back for us. It turned out that I went to school with the girl’s father in Excelsior many years ago. I hadn’t seen him since 1982 when we were at university! And the kindness didn’t end there. Mike and Bettie Bertolani and their group of 4x4s stopped to offer help, and wouldn’t leave without giving us ice cold drinks. They even phoned a few days later to ensure we’d been taken good care of. The farmer and owner of Doringkloof Boskamp, Johan Lamprecht, was able to fetch me in his bakkie. He provided us with a site where we camped for two nights. The Lamprecht family and their staff went out of their way to help us, and the camp is really special. The sites are huge, and there is ample shade throughout the day. Believe this traveller when he says that when it’s hot in the Baviaanskloof, you know it! We spent a lot of time cooling down in the dam and having fun. Another memory

And then there were two

Hermien and I were about to set oﬀ from the George Caravan Park when we learnt our next lesson: carry jumper leads. We loaded up and were ready to leave, but the Dakar wouldn’t budge. One of the campers had jumper leads and we started the bike, but the battery had failed and had to be replaced. This was the second time a battery had given up on us on a tour without any warning. Once we had a new battery, we left George on the N2, going south. Just past Mossel Bay we took the coastal gravel road to Boggomsbaai, Vleesbaai, Gouritsmond and Stilbaai, where we had lunch. From there we stuck to gravel through Vermaaklikheid to Witsand, where we spent the night. All the roads were in great condition and an absolute pleasure to ride. At Witsand, we were forced to take our second choice of campsite as the ﬁrst was full. It wasn’t great, and there were hardly any trees for shade, but ablution facilities were clean and we were right on the beach. Promising weather and an inviting beach convinced us to stay here for an extra day. H/T-S

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that these guys were known to use their oﬀ-roaders to spin rocks and boulders loose underwater, and then wait with their cameras for bikers to get stuck, but I don’t know if that’s true. After this crossing, we were understandably more circumspect. Courtney walked and inspected the depth of rivers after that. Still, we had apparently not learnt our lesson. About 15km farther on, a seemingly harmless, cemented river crossing turned out to be my undoing. While I could see that it was deeper than normal, I felt it wouldn’t be a threat. About threequarters of the way through, however, my bikes stalled. That was it. I immediately tried to start it, but to no avail. We pushed it through and began the tedious work of removing water from the cylinder heads. Typically, I didn’t have a plug spanner for the 1200 – another big mistake.

is that the lamb chops sold at the camp cannot be matched anywhere! We will certainly be visiting them again. When we got to the campsite on that first day, our four Samaritans had already devised a plan. They were going to cut their own trip by a day, return to George (where they lived) and come back in Sampie’s bakkie to fetch me and my bike early on the Monday morning. Even though it’s a 650km round trip, Sampie refused to accept money. I filled his bakkie with diesel, and at the fuel station I told him that I’d never paid for a tank of diesel with such a big smile on my face! We’ll never forget what they did for us, and hope to be in a position to show equal goodwill to someone else one day. We did have another problem, however. We had too much kit between the four of us for only two bikes. We decided that, if my bike could be fixed within three days, we would continue the tour. If not, we’d rent a car for Dewald and Courtney, and they could go back to Jeffrey’s Bay where Courtney’s grandparents live. Hermien and I would then continue on the remaining two bikes. In George, however, BMW had bad news. My bike couldn’t be fixed in three days. On top of that, there wasn’t a single car for rental in George! We ended up taking Dewald and Courtney back to Jeffreys by bike, and they spent the rest of the holiday with Granny and Grandpa.

But while we were having an early morning swim the next day, rain and wind swept in. We spent most of the day hiding from the weather in our tent, catching up on much needed sleep. An early start the following day took us via Riverdale over the Carcia Pass to Van Wyksdorp. From there we headed over the Rooiberg Pass to Calitzdorp and on to Oudtshoorn. This is a route that we can really recommend, as the roads are in good condition and the scenery is absolutely amazing. We stayed over at the Kleinplaas Resort, which has great facilities and outstanding ablutions, a swimming pool and massive, shady trees at most sites.

Swartberg and Teekloof passes

Looking back

On reflection, we once again realised how blessed we are to own motorbikes, to be healthy enough to travel the scenic routes, to live in such a stunning country and encounter such magnificent people on our journeys. We love South Africa. Along the way we saw great wealth – sports cars, opulent houses, 4x4s and boats – but also great poverty. As I write this, my bike is still in George – in ICU. It turns out that I didn’t drown the Boxer engine. The starter motor housing had broken, causing damage to the ring gear. This part had to be ordered from Germany. We suspect that when the engine stalled and I hit the starter, the motor backfired, fracturing the housing. Could this have

What we learnt • • Above: The arrival of the four good Samaritans in the Baviaanskloof was the happiest sight of the day! been prevented? I guess it’s not possible to know what happens to the metal and dynamics of the engine when they’re flaming hot and suddenly cooled down in a stream. Next time I’ll allow the engine a minute or two to normalise in temperature before I hit the starter button. We recorded all our fuel consumption figures, but as luck would have it, a strong cross wind blew our records out of Hermien’s pocket on the last day. But we can report that the Dakar is the most economical of the three bikes. With regard to luggage, I was carrying 65kg on the 1200 and later on the Dakar. Dewald was carrying 40kg, with Courtney adding a further 43kg as pillion rider, and Hermien was carrying 25kg of luggage. I have always been a supporter of soft luggage, but having used panniers for the first time, I won’t go back. For me the main advantages of panniers are that you have no knots to undo, and the luggage is always organised, dry and secure. We learnt a lot on our tour, and despite mishaps, had a great adventure as a family. What’s next? Well, we do have to go and fetch my 1200 in George…

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Be prepared for the unexpected. You cannot plan for all eventualities. Having a pillion rider in off-road conditions requires a special skill from both rider and passenger. Dewald didn’t put his bike down once. He let Courtney walk the serious hazards, which we strongly advise for pillion riders. Consider a satellite phone for adventure trails. Each time we encountered a problem, we had no cell phone signal. In the case of a medical emergency, a satellite phone could be the difference between life and death. Buy stronger tent pegs. The ones that come with the tents only cause frustration. Be prepared for all seasons (rain, cold, wind and heat). Camel packs are mandatory! You need to make sure you have a plug spanner for all the bikes – don’t rely on the toolkit. Nurofen painkillers are KING! Allow yourself flexibility in your time schedule – night riding is a no-no. Make sure you take regular breaks. When we encountered hazardous sections, our code word was – stay tuned to FM (Focus and Momentum). Make sure you have sufficient cash with you – not all places accept credit cards. If you are expecting river crossings, go for prior training! The people you encounter make the tour memorable. Our thanks to all of those who helped us! M/T +

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Our next challenge was the spectacular Swartberg Pass. I believe this is a “must ride” for any adventure biker. Nearby Prince Albert was buzzing with tourists, and we enjoyed a breakfast at the hotel. After refuelling – and stocking up with Nurofen – we took a gravel road via Kruidfontein to Leeu-Gamka, then a tar road to Fraserburg over the Teekloof Pass, which we really enjoyed. While we were refuelling in Fraserburg, we received a call from home that our dog, a young bull terrier, was misbehaving and that we should return home without delay. The last piece of gravel we rode was from Fraserburg to Loxton (R356), which again was in good condition – albeit with some loose gravel to keep you focused. We stayed over in Hopetown at the Lavender B&B. This was the ﬁrst night in two weeks that we had slept in a bed. It was like paradise! Then it was tar all the way on the N12 back to Gauteng, and the end of our tour.

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It’s all about MOUNTAIN BIKING

the bike

Text: GG van Rooyen

It all started with a race called Repack. Considering how popular the mountain bike has become, it is hard to believe that this ubiquitous two-wheeled off-roader has only been around since the late 1970s. Before that, off-road cycling as we know it did not exist. In the ’70s a bunch of cyclists (hippies, really, who rode in boots, jeans, flannel shirts and caps) developed an interest in tackling off-road trails near their homes in Marin County, California. These first mountain bikers would buy old, ramshackle bikes (nicknamed clunkers) and use them to ride down a steep hill called Pine Mountain. Inevitably, everyone soon wanted to know who the fastest rider was, so a time-trial competition was organised. It was called the Repack Race. Why Repack? Well, their old bikes were definitely not designed H/T-S

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Mountain biking has become very popular. It is said that for every road bike sold, so are 10 mountain bikes. Why is this? Because of the lifestyle the mountain bike offers. For a lot of people, the definition of adventure is simple: it’s all about the bike

Before long, a new bike was designed specifically for the purpose of riding mountain trails. It was built by Joe Breeze and called the Breezer #1. Today it is widely regarded as the first real mountain bike.

Main photo: The rush that comes from barging down a steep, rocky trail on a bike can be intoxicating. Once you experience the thrill of tackling a tough trail at high speed, you’ll understand why the sport is so popular. Top: Although beginners usually start out on wider, more forgiving trails, keen bikers can quickly move up to tougher tracks with serious obstacles. Above: Mountain biking is great for fitness, combining fresh air with strenuous activity. to handle the punishment meted out by a scary downhill track. As the bikes hurled down the slope, the grease in their brake hubs would overheat. By the time a bike reached the bottom of the hill, no grease would be left. So the first thing a cyclist would do after a day out was repack the hub with grease. From this the name “Repack” was born. The first Repack Race was held on 21 October 1976, and the last in 1984. Only 25 Repack Races were held, yet it spawned a new sport. As now legendary competitors such as Joe Breeze, Gary Fisher, Charlie Kelly and

Otis Guy battled it out for the quickest Repack time, a need for off-road oriented bikes was created. Simply jumping on an old clunker and barging down the hill was soon not good enough. Cyclists wanted efficient bikes that could provide them with the quickest time down Pine Mountain. Competitors modified their clunkers to suit the race’s demands. Most importantly, they stripped off any component that wasn’t strictly necessary, lessening the bike’s weight and increasing its speed. They would also swap parts, fitting ones that increased speed and reliability.

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Of course, mountain bike design has progressed quite a bit since the days of the Breezer #1. Built from lightweight and durable materials, modern mountain bikes are strong yet weigh surprisingly little. And the lighter and stronger they are, the more expensive they become. For a mountain bike that is made of carbon, you could easily pay the price of a motorcycle. For example, the Trek Superfly 100 Elite Carbon – by no means the most expensive bike out there – retails for R53 000. A lot of modern bikes also sport a rear suspension. These full-suspension bikes – called soft tails – have a suspension fork at the front and a shock absorber at the back. They increase comfort, traction and control over rough terrain, but they also tend to be heavier and more expensive than models with only a front suspension (hard tails). Over the last few years, bikes with larger wheels have also arrived on the scene. Where mountain bikes traditionally had 26-inch wheels, these new models have 29-inch wheels. What do these larger wheels do? Well, they offer some of the benefits of soft tails. They are easier and more comfortable to ride than a standard 26-inch hard tail, but are not as heavy or expensive as a soft tail. Buying a mountain bike can be tough. There are so many options out there that new riders can be overwhelmed. And, of course, salesmen will try to sell you the most expensive bike you can afford. They will expound the virtues of carbon fibre, rear shocks, 29-inch wheels, air-sprung forks and disc brakes. However, the truth is that you don’t need a R53 000 bike to get started. All you need is a decent hard tail with disc brakes. If possible, a set of 29-inch wheels would be nice. Mountain Bike Action magazine recently organised an interesting shoot-out between a 26-inch Cannondale mountain bike and a similarly-specced 29er. They found that a 29er is a better option for a new rider, since it makes off-road riding much easier. Here’s what they said: “If you are new to mountain biking, the Trail SL 29 2 is the runaway winner. It is not even a close race. “The 29er does not require the skill set that a 26er rider has to develop to have a good time. The wheels make for a far more forgiving bike and slow up the M/T +

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THE NEXT GENERATION

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handling enough to make it harder to make a mistake. Experienced riders will have a tough time giving up their 26ers, because once you have developed the skills, the 26er is a lot more fun to ride.”

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IT’S NOT ABOUT THE BIKE

Lance Armstrong famously said: “It’s not about the bike – well not entirely.” He’s right. Mountain biking shouldn’t be about the never-ending pursuit of the latest technology. It should be about enjoying the outdoors, getting fit and spending time with family and likeminded enthusiasts. What should you do if you want to get into mountain biking? Buy a decent entry-level hard tail bike with 29-inch wheels. And buy it from a shop where an expert can offer advice and measure you to ensure that you buy the right size bike. You can buy a perfectly adequate

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one for around R8000, so don’t be too worried about getting your hands on the latest and greatest technology. Consider this: The best time ever posted during a Repack Race was Gary Fisher’s 4min 22sec. Despite the best attempts of other riders on modern bikes, that time has never been beaten. How is that possible? According to Charlie Kelly, Fisher posted that time not because of the bike he rode but because of how he rode it. Since the track is a steep downhill, there is as much speed available as you are brave enough to use. Posting that time didn’t require a fast bike – it simply required a lot of guts. Unless you are a competitive rider desperately trying to reduce your bike’s weight and increase your speed, don’t worry too much about those shiny new bikes with the big sticker prices. It’s not about the bike. It’s about the lifestyle. So get out there and enjoy the great outdoors!

Top, left: You’ll soon discover that mountain biking is a group activity. Although you can ride on your own, it is far more fun to ride with others. Top, right: There are many cycle parks in SA offering fun and challenging trails. Above: Choose carefully when buying your first bike. You can choose between bikes with 26-inch or 29-inch wheels. Right: A helmet, glasses, padded shorts and mountain biking shoes will make a day on the trails safer and more enjoyable.

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RECOMMENDED ITEMS CYCLING COMPUTER – A bike computer will provide you with useful information about your riding. Statistics such as distance travelled and average speed can be obtained – useful when you’re training. HYDRATION PACK – A hydration pack allows you to sip liquid without taking your hands off the handlebars. How so? Well, it’s essentially a backpack that can store liquids and has a plastic tube that you drink through. BIKE RACK – Useful for transporting bikes, especially when going on holiday. Sure, you could simply put your bike on the back of your bakkie, but it takes up a lot of space. It can also get damaged, so invest in a good rack. It will ensure that your bike reaches its destination in one piece. CLIP-IN SHOES AND PEDALS – Once you start riding on a regular basis, you might want to invest in a pair of mountain bike shoes and clip-in pedals. These shoes have cleats that connect to the pedals, allowing for more effective power transfer.

WHERE TO RIDE GAUTENG Toyota Cycle Park (Bryanston) www.cyclepark.co.za Northern Farm (Fourways) www.northernfarm.co.za Groenkloof Nature Reserve (Pretoria) www.mtbroutes.co.za Rietvlei Farm (Just outside Alberton) www.rietvleilifestylecentre.co.za

Apart from the bike, there are a couple of other accessories that you might want to buy before heading onto the trail.

glasses can improve your vision when the sun is very bright, and protect your eyes from branches.

HELMET Riding without a helmet is not an option. Should you take a spill (and sooner or later, you will), it could save your life. Incidentally, a helmet is also a legal requirement on SA roads.

GLOVES Gloves will reduce the vibration felt through your hands and protect them if you end up in the dirt.

SHORTS Buy a pair of cycling shorts. Sure, you could wear something else, but shorts designed specifically for cycling are padded to protect the more vulnerable parts of your anatomy. GLASSES A good pair of sunglasses or sports

A REPAIR KIT Always carry a repair kit, an extra tube and a pump when you head onto the trail. Also, make sure that you know how to use them properly! Practise changing a tyre at home, before you tackle the trails. Alternatively, you could opt for tubeless tyres. Most wheels can be converted to tubeless, while some bikes even come with tubeless tyres as standard.

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MPUMALANGA Mankele Mountain Biking (Sudwala Caves) www.mankele.co.za Castle Rock Municipal Caravan Park (Sabie) http://www.sabie.co.za/about/mountainbiking/ KWAZULU-NATAL Giba Gorge (Outside Pinetown) www.gibagorge.co.za Cane and Spoke www.caneandspoke.co.za FREE STATE Union House (Fouriesburg) www.union-house.co.za Bergwoning (16km from Clarens) www.bergwoning.co.za WESTERN CAPE Dirtopia (Stellenbosch) www.dirtopia.co.za Tokai Forest (Western Cape) www.mtbroutes.co.za

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WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED?

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So, you love your bike…especially your mountain bike. You know many of your regular trails by heart, but have you experienced the thrill of riding the same trails at night?

NIGHT MOUNTAIN BIKING

Open your senses to a Night riding leaves you with such a feeling of euphoria and excitement that your regular day ride will soon seem rather dull by comparison. After your eyes have adjusted to the dark and you start focusing on the stab of light from your headlamp in front of you, the real fun begins. The surrounding beauty that you admire on your day rides is no longer a distraction, and you now become aware of sounds and sights you had been oblivious to before. Technically, the difficulty levels have to be lowered at night. Your choice of the trails may be conservative at first, but with experience your skills are honed beyond your imagination, and you will do things you would not have thought possible. The bike’s light picks up the eyes of many small animals that seem less frightened of humans in the dark. Ride carefully, and you will get an opportunity to see creatures that just weren’t there during the day. Hedgehogs, porcupines, owls, jackals and rabbits are some of the nocturnal beauties you may encounter. It’s surprising to find that they frequent neighbourhoods quite close to the city.

What will you need before embarking on your night-riding adventure? Firstly, a good headlamp – and that means a headlamp, not a lamp mounted on the bike. The reason is that one is inclined to look where the trail goes, and you won’t see much if the light is still shining where your handlebars are pointing. Although not a necessity, a camera equipped to take pictures at night may offer its rewards, and it would be wise to take a cellphone with you. It is advisable to use a hydration pack at night. Because it is cooler at night, one is inclined to forget about drinking. It is also safer to ride with your hands firmly on the bars rather than around a bottle. Finally, take along a good mini first aid kit and a thermal blanket, in case of mishaps, and something to chew on. The solitude of a solo night ride is a special experience, but don’t ride alone in unfamiliar places. If you’re not 100% sure about a trail, it is easy to get lost. Everything looks different at night, so a map or even a GPS could come in handy.

Not many listed or established mountain biking clubs oﬀer night riding, so it’s up to club members to make it happen. In Gauteng, however, group rides take place on Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 17h30 in winter and 18h00 in summer at Thaba Trails, 101 Klipriver Drive, Mulbarton, Johannesburg.

For more information Call 082-900-0749.

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Running TRAIL RUNNING

wild Running remains one the best forms of exercise out there. You can get into it regardless of where you live, and most importantly, it does not require a lot of expensive gear. But why limit yourself to tarred roads and pavements when you could be turning your weekly runs into true outdoor adventures? It’s time you gave trail running a try!

If you live in a large city such as Johannesburg, jogging can be a frustrating and even life-threatening experience. Some motorists seem to actively target you, while the rest are worryingly indifferent to your presence. Moreover, it’s difficult to get into a rhythm, since you are forced to come to a standstill at every traffic light and stop street. I suppose one could argue that it has its benefits. After all, dodging traffic does allow you to also work on your reflexes and situational awareness while improving your fitness, but it isn’t, well, fun. Running should be a challenge, but you shouldn’t feel like a springbok fighting for its life on

the savannah. For this reason, a lot of runners are abandoning the streets and, quite literally, heading for the hills. Why restrict yourself to roads, after all, when you can so easily venture off the beaten path? Yes, more and more “roadies” are discovering the joys and challenges of trail running. In fact, a study by the US Outdoor Foundation published in 2010 revealed that more than 80% of trail runners also run on the road. What exactly is trail running, you ask? As the name suggests, it involves running on tracks ordinarily used for activities such as 4x4ing, hiking and

mountain biking. And of course, this requires negotiating pretty tricky terrain. When you’re running on a trail there’s always a possibility of twisting an ankle or ending up with bloody knees, but that’s why trail runners enjoy it so much. It is a far more challenging and satisfying experience than simply jogging on congested city streets.

GETTING STARTED

Getting started is easy – all you need to do is put on some running shoes and head for a local trail. It is best if you ease yourself into it, though, so don’t attempt to traverse a narrow mountain track H/T-S

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Text: GG van Rooyen

GETTING KITTED OUT

Compared with many other sports, trail running is easy to get into, since you don’t need a lot of equipment. That said, you do need a few items, especially if you plan on entering hardcore mountain running events such as the Skyrun. Shoes: A good pair of running shoes is obviously very important, and while you could simply use your regular road running shoes, they won’t stand up to the punishment of a trail for very long. Trail running requires specialised shoes designed for tough terrain. They typically have

Main photo: Want to add some adventure to your running? Compared to trail running, the average jog on the roads is rather sedate. Top: You can go trail running just about anywhere. If a track is suitable for 4x4ing, hiking or mountain biking, it can also be used for trail running. Above: You never know what obstacles you’ll find along the way. This is not a bad thing, mind you, since they keep every run interesting. aggressive tread patterns, robust toe-caps and extra support and cushioning. They improve traction greatly and help to build your confidence on the trail. A good pair can be fairly expensive, but are definitely worth the money, as they can save you from a lot of pain. Shoes can be found at most sports and outdoor shops. Expect to pay between R1000 and R1500 for a top brand such as Salomon.

feet. With this in mind, these socks are made to fit perfectly, and are therefore specific to either your left or right foot.

Socks: A good pair of socks improves comfort. Brands such as Falke offer offroad running socks designed to make running as painless as possible on your

Hydration: During a short run, a simple hand-held 500ml bottle is fine. For longer trails, however, a hydrobelt is a good idea, since it allows you to store your

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Clothing: Regardless of what you run in, make sure that it doesn’t chafe. A pair of shorts that chafe can turn a pleasant run into a horrible experience. You can run in any shirt, but a high-quality shirt with moisture-wicking technology will keep you cool and dry, so splurge on one if you can.

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with large boulders and precipitous drop-offs on your first outing. Make use of a wide and reasonably flat trail. Once you get the hang of it, you can start tackling those boulder-strewn tracks. And once you start feeling as if you’ve really got this “trail running” thing figured out, you can advance to mountain running. What is mountain running? It is the big, bad brother of trail running. Mountain running events are typically held on extremely difficult trails (in fact, there is often no trail to speak of) and require a tremendous amount of grit and stamina. Runners compete on terrain that would intimidate seasoned hikers, and instead of gingerly traversing it as the average hiker would, they attack it at speed. Possibly the best known South African mountain running event is the annual Salomon Skyrun. Taking place in November each year, the race starts near the town of Lady Grey, winds its way along the Lesotho border, and eventually ends near Rhodes. The total distance of the event is around 100km. Participants hit the trail at 04h00 and are immediately faced with a tough climb – about 800m of near vertical travel over 7km. Also, the initial stages of the course are very remote, with hardly any manmade structures in sight. The majority of runners manage to complete around 60km on the first day of the race, and opt to spend the night at Balloch Cave. Those who are “in it to win it”, however, push on through the night, relying on nothing more than a simple headlamp to show them the way over this treacherous terrain. The lead runners normally manage to complete the Salomon Skyrun in around 15 hours, so it truly is a massive test of endurance. If you’re just getting into trail running, it would be a bit premature to tackle an event such as the Skyrun, but it is nevertheless a worthy goal to set your sights on in the long term. It epitomises everything that is great about trail running. It forces you to navigate tough terrain for long periods, and push yourself to the limit of your abilities. Few activities are as character building!

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Left, top: Long-distance events can be taxing, which means runners are sometimes forced to slow their pace. At least they have wonderful views to enjoy! Left, centre: Some mountain running events take place at night, so headlamps are necessary. Even then, finding your way on a narrow trail can be a challenge. Left, bottom: Due to the rugged terrain, it is important to wear the right shoes. Salomon offers excellent shoes designed to deal with rock, mud and water. Above: Want to tackle a tough trail run? Then try the annual Salomon Skyrun. This endurance event really separates the men from the boys. bottles effectively.

WHERE CAN I RUN?

The options for trail running are practically infinite. Virtually any trail that can be used for mountain biking, hiking or off-road driving can also be used for trail running. For useful information regarding places to run and races to enter, visit www.trailrunning.co.za and

It goes without saying that trail running can be dangerous. Never head out into the wilderness without telling someone where you are going and approximately what time you will be back. The last thing you want is having to drag yourself back to civilisation with a broken ankle. If you’re in an area with cellphone reception, carry an inexpensive phone with you at all times. Also, if you are going on a lengthy run, carry some survival items in case something goes wrong. Most survival and outdoor organisations recommend that you carry these items – known as the Ten Essentials: • Extra clothes • Map • Headlamp or flashlight • Compass (or satellite navigation unit) • First-aid kit • Sunglasses and sunblock • Fire starter • Food • Knife • Water H/T-S

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CANOPY TOURS

Nice and easy Text: GG van Rooyen

A lot of adventure activities seem to be designed only for the monumentally ﬁt and the stupendously brave among us. Sure, hiking the length of the Fish River Canyon might be a wonderful adventure, but it probably won’t be a pleasant experience if you’re not a regular hiker or runner. Of course, there are adventure activities that don’t require a high ﬁtness level, but these often demand an absurd lack of instinct for self-preservation. Sky diving is a good example. Plummeting to the earth

like a sack of potatoes requires no ﬁtness, but it does demand that you ignore every survival instinct that has evolved in the human brain over thousands of years. So what about those people who want an adventure activity that the whole family can enjoy? Well, for them, a canopy tour is the perfect solution. What is a canopy tour, you ask? Essentially, it consists of several platforms connected by cables. Those taking part are strapped into a harness and connected to two cables. Once you

are connected, you simply sit back in your harness, step oﬀ the platform, and let gravity do the work. To be sure, it isn’t a sedate experience. It will still provide you with a good dose of adrenaline. Some of the slides are very high oﬀ the ground, while others are long (more than 150m), which means that you can pick up quite a bit of speed. Luckily you are in control of your speed, so you can slow down if you want to. Overall, a canopy tour is a fun activity that provides just the right amount of H/T-S

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Are you looking for an adventure activity that is mild enough to be suitable for the whole family, but will still blow your hair back and get your pulse racing? South Africa’s popular canopy tours are the answer

excitement, so that the whole family can enjoy it. Just about anyone can take part. Officially, the tour is open to anyone between the ages of seven and 70, though the youngest person to complete a tour was only four, and the oldest was 85. You don’t need to be very fit, either, but it is worth keeping in mind that there is usually a short hike back from the end of the course. There is also a weight limit of 120kg. We’ve done quite a few canopy tours, and it has always been a rewarding experience. All the venues are professionally operated and the staff members are friendly and helpful. There are five official canopy tour venues in SA, and one in Swaziland – all in wonderfully picturesque locations. So if you’re looking for a new and (slightly) adventurous way to explore areas such as the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, the Tsitsikamma forest and Drakensberg mountains, why not try a canopy tour?

CANOPY TOUR VENUES MAGALIESBERG CANOPY TOUR Located in the Magaliesberg mountains in Gauteng/North West Province, 30 minutes from Rustenburg. TSITSIKAMMA CANOPY TOUR Located at Storms River Village on the Garden Route. 45 minutes from Plettenberg Bay.

Main photo: A canopy tour is fun, and a safe activity for the whole family, but you will be dealing with some serious heights! Top, left: Groups are shuttled to the start of the course. Getting back to base sometimes requires a bit of a hike. Top, right: It isn’t all about the thrills – visitors are given information about the local fauna and flora. Above: Guides are always on hand to ensure that everyone completes the course safely. Left: The slides aren’t too intimidating, and you can slow yourself down by using your glove to press on the cable.

KARKLOOF CANOPY TOUR Karkloof in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. 10 minutes from Howick. MAGOEBASKLOOF CANOPY TOUR Between the towns of Haenertsburg and Tzaneen, in Limpopo Province.

The cost of the canopy tour is R450 per person, and includes all the equipment you will need. It also includes a light snack. The tour takes roughly three hours to complete from the moment that you arrive at the venue until you reach the end of the course. For more information, visit www.canopytour.co.za

DRAKENSBERG CANOPY TOUR Opposite the Drakensberg Sun in the central Drakensberg. MALOLOTJA CANOPY TOUR, SWAZILAND Situated on the Piggs Peak road, less than 45 minutes from Mbabane.

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gripping Adventure

ROCK CLIMBING

Exciting and

exhilarating The skill of rock climbing is not a gift bestowed on the chosen few. It is a learned art, which makes it a sport perfect for the whole family. And the younger you start, the more skilful you will become The next good grip is just out of reach. She hesitates, unsure of her next move. She looks down for encouragement, and familiar faces beam up at her. “There, just above your right knee. If you can just get your foot up there, you’ll be able to reach.” She carefully shifts her weight to her left foot, lifts her right, and ﬁnds the small protrusion with the toe of her shoe. In a swift move that surprises even herself, she steps up and reaches for the crack with her left hand. A surge of relief washes over her when she grabs the support, the safety rope moving like a lifeline with her. She’d done it, again! Words of praise drift

up towards her. She smiles, a big smile of utter enjoyment. Man, this feels GOOD! When we climb, many things happen to us. Studies have found a strong link between perceived fear, and mental and physical arousal. When we do something that provides a sense of exhilaration, which typically happens when we climb a rock face, we are on a natural high (pun intended). This has a lot to do with adrenaline surging through our veins, blood vessels contracting, and our heart rate increasing. But there’s more to climbing than getting high (pun intended again). All of us have a natural ability to climb.

For some, it just has to be rediscovered. Climbing, or the rediscovery of that almost forgotten ability that used to be the essence of survival for our ancestors, also has a tremendous impact on our selfesteem. The sequence of encountering an obstacle, challenging it, and the elation of being able to overcome it, enhances and improves the climber’s trust in his own competence and in his support system. That is why climbing is so good for children and couples alike. The climber is always competing with himself, attempting to improve on his previous best, yet he is very dependent on support from the H/T-S

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Text and photography: Extreme Babe

Main picture: Rock climbing is for all members of the family and not just an activity for the “stronger” sex. Above top: Gabriel, 7, tries his hand at climbing. Above left: A young girl getting a feel for the rock (literally). Above right: A more experienced climber showing how it is done. Top right: Climbing walls is a good way of introducing youngsters to the art of climbing, and a perfect idea for birthday parties and fundraisers. are a wonderful playground for novices and seasoned climbers alike. Topics covered during a typical course are the history of climbing, equipment and gear, knots, climbing jargon and commands, basic climbing and belaying techniques, and ethics. So if you have always dreamed of climbing but believed it was purely the realm of those sinewy people on the Discovery channel, Outside Adventures will prove you wrong, while guaranteeing your safety at all times. Most people are still a bit wild at heart and climbing with Outside Adventures taps into that spirit in a safe environment. Add to that the support of highly skilled and experienced guides and safety factors built into the process, and you have the ultimate family-bonding, friendship-building event: A Day at the Crag. Outside Adventures oﬀers an “Introduction to Sports Climbing” course, which is designed to equip you with the conﬁdence and skills to safely climb a vertical rock face using sports climbing techniques and European-rated alpine climbing gear and ropes. The course is designed for anyone, without previous experience. All you need is the passion and commitment to climb. Making use of various venues in and around Gauteng, on bolted routes ranging from very easy to mind-blowingly technical for advanced climbers, the mountains

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Quick Facts Age limit: Anyone 6 and older is welcome Fitness level: Average Joe to Adrenaline Junkie, depending on the site. Included: All gear and equipment, experienced guides, entrance fees. Not included: Transport, food and drink, parking fees. What you need: Comfortable movable clothing and closed toes shoes, sun screen and a spirit of adventure! Available extras: Make a day of it – combine the adventure with abseiling, hiking, river rafting or a game drive (extra costs apply) Cost: From R395 pp. Availability: Every day of the year, subject to availability – booking is essential Best season: All year round! Contact: Outside Adventures on 083-264-3778, nina@outsideadventures.co.za www.outsideadventures.co.za

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ground. Climbing is an activity in which children often outshine their parents with relative ease but, with their parents as safety “belayers” – as they are called – and ground support actively involved in the process, climbing is a family-bonding activity like few others. Outside Adventures oﬀers rock climbing for everyone – families, friends and the climbing fraternity. A day in the sunshine can lift the spirits, strengthen family bonds and build mutual trust and self-esteem. These are far reaching beneﬁts beyond “a day out having fun”, which climbing certainly is, too. It is also said that people climb because of a deep-seated need for adventure, and that climbing becomes an antidote for the mundane – the monotony of our day to day existence. Climbing is exciting and exhilarating. It provides a feeling of “freedom of the hills” like few other activities can.

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exhilarating Adventure

X-TREME GORGE EXPERIENCE

The cure is

outside! Getting high on nature is the most cost effective and healthy addiction one could ever develop. And if you feel it is time for a new “fix”, why not try the X-treme Gorge X-perience?

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Main picture: The Extreme Gorge Experience is not for the faint-hearted. Following the river downstream leads to plenty of abseils, often next to a waterfall. Above left: Guides Rob Thomas, Piet Rorke and Michael McMicken ensuring the safety of clients down the rock-face. Above top: Take the plunge! Sometimes there’s only one way forward – through the water. Above bottom: A well-deserved rest in the shade. will walk, slide, scramble, abseil, rockhop and even swim, following the river downstream. Some kloofs have compulsory swims. However, if you’re not able to swim distances of 25m at a time, you will be provided with a “personal ﬂotation device” to keep you safe and comfortable, and up

with the group. Although the X-treme Gorge X-perience isn’t marathon running, or a sprint, it is a good whole-body work-out. While you won’t be out of breath at any point, don’t plan a long night out afterwards – you’ll be happily tired, but not exhausted!

Quick facts Age limit: Anyone 16 and older is welcome Fitness level: A fairly ﬁt person will enjoy the trip Included: All gear and equipment, experienced guides, a snack and drink on the way, entrance and exit fees – and a proven cure for NDD Not included: Transport, personal extras What you need: Comfortable clothing that can get wet, comfortable hiking shoes with good grip on wet rock, sunscreen, and a spirit of adventure! Available extras: This one is enough all by itself! Cost: From R495 pp. Availability: September to May, subject to availability – booking is essential Best season: October to April Contact: Outside Adventures on 083-264-3778, nina@outsideadventures.co.za www.outsideadventures.co.za

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“The future will belong to the nature-smart – those individuals, families, businesses and political leaders who develop a deeper understanding of the transformative power of the natural world, and who balance the virtual with the real. The more high-tech we become, the more nature we need.” – Richard Louv, author of The Nature Principle. Louv identifies a phenomenon we all knew existed but couldn’t quite pinpoint: nature deficit disorder. Since its publication in 2011, The Nature Principle has created a national conversation in the US about the disconnection between people and nature, and his message has galvanised an international movement. By tapping into the restorative powers of nature, Louv says, we can boost mental acuity and creativity, promote health and wellness, build smarter and more sustainable businesses, communities, and economies, and ultimately strengthen human bonds. And the cure to the devastating effects of nature deficit disorder is right here, on our doorstep, and available to anyone with a keen spirit of adventure and a reasonable level of fitness. All we need do is heed the call, get back to nature and “Go play outside”! The X-treme Gorge X-perience offered by Outside Adventures is a full day of “playing outside”, getting in touch with nature, feeding the soul and having fun – all while following a river’s course down a kloof. It is an exhilarating adventure if you enjoy the mountains, sunshine and crystal clear rock pools, and have just one day to spare. Some of the kloofs explored are usually dry, where the river flows only late in the rainy season. Others are “wet kloofs”, where the river flows all year round, and there may be compulsory swims along the way. Because water always follows the steepest route downhill, this adventure often involves abseiling, rock-hopping and scrambling. The adventure will start with a scenic hike up the outside of the kloof, with panoramic views of the valleys below. The knowledgeable guides will point out geological features, interesting plants, and tell stories about the environment. Once you’ve entered the kloof there is no turning back. From now on you

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View from HIKE THE BERG AMPHITHEATRE

the top

The Drakensberg’s 8km-long Amphitheatre is one of the most impressive cliff faces in the world. And the top of its massive face, which towers nearly 1km above the Royal Natal National Park, can be reached within a couple of hours. To be sure, the hike is tough and steep, but the view definitely makes the effort worthwhile

Although it isn’t as widely known as one would expect, the Tugela waterfall in the Drakensberg’s Royal Natal National Park is the second highest in the world. It is made up of ﬁve separate drops and has a total height of 948m. The top of the waterfall is 3283m above sea level. Considering the height and sheer size of the Drakensberg escarpment, one would expect it to be diﬃcult to reach the top of the waterfall. In fact, it’s quite easy. While you can spend a night at the top of the escarpment if you wish, it is entirely possible to reach the top of the Tugela

Falls in a few hours. Starting at the Sentinel parking area near Phuthaditjhaba (Witsieshoek), one can hike to the top of the falls in about three hours. The car park is 2500m above sea level, so to reach the top, you climb about 800m. The trail isn’t long (6-7km) but it is steep. And of course, the altitude ensures that you huff and puff a bit more than you normally would. As you approach the top, you encounter a gully. Those who are fit and brave enough can use this boulder-strewn crevice to reach the summit fairly quickly.

It is very steep, however, and you have to get over quite a few large rocks, so it’s not the route for everyone. Those who prefer the longer but easier route can reach the top of the escarpment with the aid of a couple of chain ladders. These ladders, which are also used for the descent, are a big help in making the climb, but it is important to note that they will scare the living daylights out of anyone who is afraid of heights! While the ladders themselves aren’t particularly long – the fact that they are at the top of the escarpment can make H/T-S

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Text: GG van Rooyen

Main photo: The view of the Drakensberg Amphitheatre from the Royal Natal National Park. The park’s Gorge Hiking Trail leads to the bottom of the rock face. Above: The Tugela Falls is the second highest waterfall in the world. It boasts a total drop of 948m!

YOU’VE BEEN TO THE TOP – NOW VISIT THE BOTTOM Royal Natal National Park’s Gorge Hiking Trail leads to the bottom of the Drakensberg Amphitheatre and offers stunning views of the cliff face. Inside the park, there is a parking area near Thendele Hill, right at the start of the trail. The distance from the beginning of the path to the Amphitheatre wall is around 11km, and should take a person of average fitness about three hours to complete. The Gorge Trail is by no means Royal Natal’s only hiking trail. There are 24 trails in and around the park, so it is truly a hiker’s paradise. For more information, visit www.kznwildlife.com

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climbers feel more vulnerable than they actually are. Once you’ve used the gully or the ladders to reach the top of the Amphitheatre, you will encounter one of the best views that southern Africa has to offer. Nothing prepares you for the spectacular sight – it’s sublime. Yes, getting to the top requires a bit of effort, but it isn’t a massive challenge. Anyone who is reasonably fit will be able to do it. And the stunning scenery ensures that your exertions are more than adequately rewarded.

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Left: One can reach the top of the Amphitheatre with the help of a couple of chain ladders. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re scared of heights, however, the climb may be a bit intimidating. Top: The Tugela waterfall dries up during the winter months, leaving nothing but bits of ice to suggest its summer splendour. Above: Royal Natal National Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gorge hiking trail leads to the bottom of the Amphitheatre. H/T-S

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Above: Sitting on top of the world. Once you get to the top of the Amphitheatre, you can enjoy lunch while taking in the expansive views. Left: It is recommended that you use one of the knowledgeable local guides when hiking in the Amphitheatre, since the unpredictable weather can make conditions dangerous.

Play it safe

For more information, phone 036-438-6675. You can also visit www.amphibackpackers.co.za

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Although you can reach the top of the Drakensberg Amphitheatre in a few hours, it is important to remember that the weather can be unpredictable and dangerous. Storms can arrive unexpectedly, turning a pleasant outing into a ďŹ ght for survival. Also, trails at the top of the escarpment arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t clearly marked, so it is advisable to make use of a guide. Amphitheatre Backpackers organises day trips to the summit of the escarpment.

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majestic Adventure

WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HIGHEST ABSEIL

The height

of adventure Looking for something adventurous to do while visiting Lesotho? Why not tackle the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest commercial abseil? But those suffering from acrophobia (fear of heights) should definitely steer clear!

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Text: GG van Rooyen

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Lesotho’s Maletsunyane River is not particularly striking. It meanders through the mountains and is certainly picturesque, but it’s a bit of a misnomer when it comes to rivers. This is definitely not the longest or widest river you will ever see. But while the Maletsunyane might appear rather nondescript at first glance, it boasts one of the most striking natural features you are likely to find in Lesotho. Near the small town of Semonkong, the river dramatically and unexpectedly plummets roughly 200m over a cliff and into a natural cauldron. Semonkong means “place of smoke”, and the name is derived from the mist created by the water crashing into the pool below. It is a stunning sight, made even more so by the fact that it is so unexpected. When you discover the Maletsunyane Falls, you can hardly believe that such a humble river could hide such a remarkable feature. For most visitors, just enjoying this stunning spectacle will justify the trip, but for adrenaline junkies there is a way to get up close and personal with the waterfall. The nearby Semonkong Lodge offers visitors the opportunity to abseil down to the bottom of the falls. The view alone makes this one of those must-do abseils, but that isn’t its only attraction. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the longest commerciallyoperated single-drop abseil in the world. Just how high is it? About 204m. When you are suspended over an abyss and have nothing but a thin rope to depend on, 204m is very, very high. Needless to say, the people who operate the abseil take safety very seriously, so it isn’t really dangerous, but it remains a frightening and adrenaline-inducing experience. Descending takes quite a while, and there is a limit to the pace of the descent, since barging down too quickly could damage the expensive ropes. The average time to reach the bottom is about 15 minutes. But keep in mind that what goes down must come up. Once you reach the bottom, there’s no lift! You will have to climb back up to the top of the falls. There is a well-used path, but it is a tough climb. That said, hiking up again is a small price to pay for the pleasure of experiencing the Maletsunyane Falls from a unique vantage point. The abseil at Semonkong is an adventure that will not disappoint you.

Above and below: Abseiling down the Maletsunyane Falls definitely requires a head for heights! The drop is 204m. Left: Predictably, visitors’ safety is taken very seriously.

WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO?

The Maletsunyane Falls is Semonkong’s main attraction, but that’s not all the area offers. Here are some other leisure activities you can enjoy: Go for a drive It’s no secret that Lesotho is 4x4 country. There are plenty of technical off-road tracks in the region, as well as easier dirt roads that offer fantastic mountain views. Try a pony trek For those eager to explore Lesotho at a relaxed pace, pony treks can be organised at Semonkong Lodge. There are various treks to suit all needs. You can go for a quick ride of one hour, or head into the mountains for six days! Hike the hills Lesotho’s beautiful landscape offers hikers countless opportunities to strap on their boots and grab their walking sticks. The staff at Semonkong Lodge can provide information about the various routes.

For more information on the abseil at Maletsunyane Falls, contact Semonkong Lodge on +266 2700-6037. You can also visit the lodge’s website at www.placeofsmoke.co.za

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MORE INFORMATION

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SURVIVAL ADVENTURE

The new

adventure

Text: Leilani Basson Photography: Herman Roos

“The interest in doing an extreme survival course is something that usually starts out of curiosity. People wonder what it would be like to survive without food, water, shelter or any of the modern luxuries we have become accustomed to,” says Herman Roos, survival instructor and owner of Boswa Survival. “When students enrol for an extreme survival course, they expect to suﬀer and are prepared for a few days of roughing it in the wild. This in itself is quite a thrill, and an accomplishment they love to share with others.” Boswa was established in 2006, when Herman saw a gap in the market for teaching survival skills to ordinary people in a “fun” but disciplined manner. “Only by living close to nature can we truly feel a kinship with the wilderness,” says Herman. “Boswa

oﬀers a survival training programme in which we teach survival skills to anyone willing to experience the wonderful world of bushcraft.” Herman trained over many years to become a survival instructor with the world-renowned Survival School in the UK. Being close to nature is part of his life, and always has been. Herman has learned from some of the best instructors in the world and has explored and travelled to many true wilderness locations. From the Arctic to the jungles of Thailand, and the deserts and bushveld of Africa, Herman has gained knowledge and experience in most of the world’s extreme environments. “I’m a conservationist at heart and believe that deep inside everyone there is a connection with nature and a yearning for adventure.” Herman is also a technical diver, a H/T-S

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Survival courses, survival adventures and getaways have become quite a trend, and to some enthusiasts they are a “sport” in themselves. But when there’s a crisis in the wilds, the skills they have learned can mean the difference between life and death

Main: Boswa Survival presents 4x4 survival courses in which participants learn all they need to know about surviving when stranded in the wilds. Insert: Herman Roos, instructor and owner of Boswa Survival. Clockwise: Snake identification, making snares and tent pens, first aid and building shelters are some of the practical sessions on an extreme survival course. by setting up hammocks and bashas – a type of covering sheet – in the trees,” says Herman. “While preparing our last proper meal for a few days, we do kit checks and a study of the terrain, including escape routes and procedures in case of emergencies.” Survival training days start early. Right after sunrise, students set oﬀ for an unforgettable adventure with a small rucksack packed with emergency and survival kit. During the next three days and two nights, students learn how to adapt to extreme locations without putting themselves at risk. The course is a physical and mostly mental experience, in which participants learn about their abilities and test their newly learned skills. “Those who have been on the course invariably say that it has changed them somehow,” says Herman.

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“I believe they have experienced something that, sadly, most people miss. The ability of the human spirit to adapt and go far beyond what we think we are capable of, is something one cannot quite explain until you have experienced it yourself. “Our students complete the course believing in themselves and their own abilities to get them through any diﬃcult situation.”

MORE INFORMATION Boswa Survival oﬀers basic survival courses, advanced survival courses, bushcraft, 4x4 survival courses, hunters’ survival courses and ﬁrst aid. Their Bush Shop stocks a wide range of camping and survival gear. Contact 011 9545088, 072 916-5080, sales@boswa. co.za or log on to www.boswa.co.za for more information. M/T +

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dive master, a rock climbing instructor, a kayaking instructor, an emergency first response instructor, a marine skipper, a snake expert, and an expedition leader. He has completed an extensive mountain and snow rescue course. “At Boswa Survival we strive to offer the best survival courses in SA and internationally. We believe we are teaching complete skills on a professional level, and that by learning and practising these vital skills, our students will have the knowledge and confidence to explore wild places,” says Herman. The Extreme Survival Course starts with an expedition-style 4x4 drive over the Magaliesberg on a road that is said to have been cut into the mountainside by the Voortrekkers. “Arriving at the location for our extreme course, we make base camp

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nostalgic Adventure

SOUTH WEST BECOMES NAMIBIA

A 7750 km trip…

into the past Back in 1965, when I travelled to then South West Africa for the first time, I fell in love with it. Subsequent visits followed over several decades but, as things happen in life, they became less frequent over time. I lost touch with the new Namibia. It was time to go back. This is the story of three pensioners rediscovering a country

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Main: In Damaraland, northern Namibia, some roads are better than others. This was one of the better ones, and a pleasure to drive in the Jeep! Inset: Three pensioners take it easy during golden hour in the Quiver Tree Forest. From the left are Peter Cyrenek, 71, Erich Neumann, 69, and Jürgen Höntsch, 70. It seemed ideal – touring the new Namibia, visiting places with great memories, all in my Jeep with an off-road trailer in tow. But our average age of 70 put a damper on our enthusiasm. I wasn’t sure about my friends’ physical condition, and opted for a combination of camp sites and lodge accommodation. The idea was to be considerate and flexible, to simply enjoy our adventure and let it take us where it would. All the planning done, we set off from Cape Town a week after my two German friends arrived in SA, entering Namibia in mid-October. Off went Erich, Peter and I, into the land of my memories. The Jeep towed well and we made it to the Kokerboom Motel in Springbok, where we stopped for a good night’s rest and a hearty breakfast the next morning. It was a chilly Sunday, and we were happy when temperatures rose in the Orange River valley. The moment we crossed the border into Namibia, there was an intense feeling of coming home. Travelling down the dusty gravel road to Ais Ais raised our spirits, and we started singing the old Southwest Song and Heia Safari. Three pensioners became young boys again. Contrary to criticism in some travel publications, the camp at Ais Ais was in a generally good condition and we enjoyed our stay. Recent renovations have added a spa to the facilities, and the ablutions were fine. The camp was, however, different from my first visit. There was only a little pond, with the hot water spring surrounded by some palm trees and thorn bush. The holiday camp was set up in 1970, and everything had changed. Still, we enjoyed it, taking the opportunity to “defrost” from the cold start to the trip.

The Fish River Canyon was one place that was just as awesome as I remembered it. Entry fees had changed. The privilege of viewing this spectacle of nature used to be free (and this was to be a trend on our travels).

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Awesome as ever

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A new Visitor’s Centre has been built at the main lookout point, and the area was clean. Roads were much improved and we had none of the punctures galore that I remembered! The first difference that wasn’t one of delight was the condition of the road down to Holoog. It was surprisingly good as far as the Canyon Roadhouse, but from there to Seeheim it deteriorated badly. Seeheim had also changed, with a respectable hotel having been built, but the filling station had shut down. The next garage is now at Aus. We found that the B4 to Lüderitz had been tarred, and I recalled my last visit there. It was in 1970, and the changes since then are astonishing. We stayed here for two nights, in selfcatering cottages beautifully situated on the rocks by the seaside. The south-easter was in its element, and we were grateful that we hadn’t camped. Restaurant prices (and the weather) are comparable with Cape Town! During my previous visit we were unable to obtain a permit for Bogenfels (Arch Rock), which is in the restricted diamond area, 100km south of Luderitz. This time I made bookings, and we made a day-trip through the Namib and historic mining (ghost) towns of Pomona and the Bogenfels mining settlement. Here we saw the 55m rocky spectacle on the seashore. But this was by no means a cheap excursion. We visited the wild horses of the Namib at Garup Pan – a worthwhile detour. “Look at that – horses, oryx and ostrich all at the same water hole,” joked my friend, “No more apartheid!” As we passed Aus, the GPS indicated an altitude of 1500m. We left the tar and headed north on the C13. The landscape opened up to enormous vistas all round. Heading left on the D707, we took the highly commendable trail along the dunes and the Tiras mountains, with game and birds plentiful by the roadside. There were dark clouds in the distant sky with visible rain pouring down, but before the water hit the ground, it evaporated in mid-air – a phenomenon I’d heard about but never witnessed. We arrived at the Sesriem camp, despite the T4A mapping system’s best efforts to send us the wrong way, to find the site was full. We were redirected to the very sandy overflow section. We struggled to make it, getting stuck in the soft sand, air lockers engaged and a clutch getting smelly. But starting from this spot the next day allowed us to leave for Sossusvlei a full hour before the official gate of the Namib-Naukluft Parkopens at sunrise.

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Magical Sossusvlei

This was a spot I’d never been to – a magical place I had only heard about. We arrived way too early at Dune 45. It was still enveloped in grey and the little clouds and moisture in the eastern sky looked great. Pushing on to Sossusvlei, we drove through thick sand. The Jeep, despite towing a trailer, gave us no problems. Soon we arrived at the most beautiful dawn we’d ever seen. The Vlei was filled with water (rather rare in October). The wind was strong, and setting up camp was rather trying, but the slight moisture that hung in the air made the dunes look spectacular, and the whole experience was rewarding. After a short break in Solitaire to taste the well-known apple pie at Moos McGregor’s Desert Bakery (which is well worth a trip from Germany!) we re-fuelled and took the stony, corrugated road past the Tropic of Capricorn to Kuiseb Canyon. Many know Kuiseb from the true story by Henno Martin, The Sheltering Desert. It tells the remarkable tale of two German geologists who lived in the desert for more than two years during the Second World War, to avoid internment. Pushing on past the “Gramadullas”, we were about to descend into the canyon when the Jeep began behaving as though it had a puncture. We pulled over and stopped, to find the entire vehicle leaning to one side. Investigation revealed that the trailer had a broken axle, and thus we were stranded! The Martin storyline became eerily familiar. It was 36°C, there wasn’t a car in sight, and we had no way of fixing the trailer ourselves. Towing it any farther was out of the question. The only solution was a time-consuming one. We unhitched the trailer, and I headed to Walvis Bay for help while my friends stayed with the wayward trailer. The road to Walvis was made longer by a string of doubts running through my mind. Should I have left my friends behind? Should we have brought the trailer to begin with? What if this had happened farther north, in Kaokoland or at Epupa Falls, where there would be no

Inset, left: The impressive bateleur, which can be seen in northern and eastern Namibia. Above: The awesome Fish River Canyon, from the main look-out point. one to help at all? Could it be repaired? Troubled thoughts blew through my mind as a strong desert wind pushed dune sand over the road, sandblasting the Jeep’s paintwork and windscreen. As I drove, I recalled a trip with a trailer to the Richtersveld, which was free of mishaps in far more trying road conditions. The story of the famous steam tractor, imported from old Germany in 1896 to resolve a critical transport problem between Swakopmund and the country’s interior, stayed with me. The so-called “Martin Luther Tractor” is now in a museum, after breaking down and being left in the desert for a century. True to its namesake’s famous quote, “There I stand. I cannot do otherwise, so help me God!”

Rescue mission

A friendly Pajero driver in Walvis led the way to a 4x4 ﬁtment centre, where staﬀ were equally helpful. Ten minutes later, a recovery-and-repair specialist was sitting down with me, discussing details of our rescue mission. We found my friends perched on camping chairs in the trailer’s shade – having developed a decent tan – with more tales of friendliness to tell. Just about H/T-S

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What we recommend

The near-perfect photo, taken at Sossusvlei.

Lüderitz Safaris and Tours The Bogenfels Sossusvlei at dawn Moos McGregor’s Desert Bakery Swakop and Namib Tours Monjila Camp Etosha Raﬁdim Damaraland and the Ugab Valley Sunset at Kokerboom Forest The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Camelthorn Brewery

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Legal beach driving to view a wreck near Cape Cross. Inset on map: The famous and delicious apple pie at Solitaire.

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every hour, a car came past and asked if they could help. Among the would-be Samaritans was apparently a very attractive young lady, driving solo through the desert! Two Scandinavian overlanders in a Land Cruiser insisted my friends had a drink with them, filling their coffee mugs with warm Aquavit. Erich didn’t enjoy the taste, and donated the rest of the schnaps to the succulents by the roadside once the travellers had left. Just as it got dark, the two recovery guys arrived in a bakkie with an old flat bed, but no winch! We used my towrope and a snatch strap, connected together, and I pulled our trailer onto the piece of scrap low-bed with our Jeep in low range. Then, the jockey wheel broke through the rusted platform, and we had to place sheet metal pieces under the wheel. When the trailer was strapped in and secured (and necessary provisions transferred to the Jeep), they left in quite a hurry. “What is a trip without an adventure?”

said Peter with a cold Windhoek Draught in his hand. We agreed with a hearty “Prost!” and the world was looking better already. We were, however, to see our trailer again much sooner than we expected. On our way to Swakopmund, we saw stationary lights in the desert, and our hearts sank as we assumed our trailer had been left behind! Luckily, they’d just stopped to re-strap and re-secure it, and we pushed on to Villa Wiese in Swakop.

Swakopmund and Walvis Bay

Swakop was the town I found most changed. I remember a dreary, mistladen place. Old “Herr Zimmer”, with his enormous thick spectacles, used to ﬁsh on the rickety jetty, and produced the best smoked catfish in town (and possibly in the world). Now Swakop has been turned into a tourist town – an adventure capital of sorts. The German colonial architecture adds some old-world charm, and there are plenty of landmarks to see. The rusty old jetty that had been a favourite of mine has been replaced by a brand new concrete one with an upmarket restaurant at the end – a worthwhile visit for the seafood connoisseur.

The Brauhaus is a culinary hotspot, with great Wiener Schnitzel, venison, “smoked catfish” (a smoked sea barbel) and the best Weissbier draught. We explored nearby Walvis Bay as well, after visiting the “workshop” (no more than a yard with a jack and a few boerbuls) where our trailer was in intensive care. A cross member of the trailer’s suspension had broken, exposing an old rusty crack. The repairman explained that the axle was broken in two places, but that an engineering firm was hastily making us a replacement part. There wasn’t much to see in Walvis, except perhaps the salt works, which was a good photo spot. On the old salzpad, we headed north to visit the historic Cape Cross. Here, the Portuguese seafarer, Diego Cao, erected a stone cross in 1486. Now you’ll find a 200m wheelchair-friendly walkway, made of recycled plastic material, up to the “Padrao”, which still stands. The old, oversized potjies (used for seal oil production in bygone days) that were once displayed near the cross, along with an old anchor, are gone. We hoped they’d been moved to a museum. The lady at the ticket office told us there were about a quarter of a million seals in the colony, although it looked more like 50 000 to us. Further south, en route to Henties Bay, the coast had claimed another victim – a more recent shipwreck than the ones I remembered. It looked like a tug, and the H/T-S

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Left: Some of the worst roads in Damaraland. Inset, Left: Mishap in the desert – a broken trailer axle. Right, from top to bottom: Lüderitz Bay had changed much since Jürgen’s last visit; Erich takes a photo in the petrified forest, sitting on a trunk that could be up to 280 million years old; Bogenfels, the 55, a towering rock arch spectacle by the sea; Jürgen, left, Erich and Peter enjoy dinner at Mojila (which means “on the road”); Trees in the Etosha park filled with weavers’ nests.

ethosha

When we discovered days later that the trailer still hadn’t been fixed, we took what provisions we could, donated the rest to the lodge owners and workmen, and set off for the Monjila tented camp. Situated on a hill with a view over the vast Mopane bushveld, it has two-sleeper safari tents, showers, toilets and a stoep with a table and chairs. Everything was clean, felt safe and was affordable. We relaxed with an ice cold dip in the pool and drinks while we watched the stunning sunset. Etosha game reserve has to be on the list for a visit to Namibia, and we entered the park the next day. It was a great day for game viewing, and we even saw four lions near Okondeka! Farther east, we saw a massive bull elephant, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe and various antelope. There were fewer large herds than I remembered, but apparently a devastating bushfire had either killed off or chased off large numbers of animals the previous year. Evidence of the fire was everywhere, and there was even talk of 60 rhinos having perished. Etosha is still a truly special place, and our visit was too short for us to see the famed flood-lit water hole in Okaukuejo.

Old friends reunited In 1964, I met a chap named Siegfried while he was at the Ysterplaat Airforce Camp. He introduced me to the old “South-West”, and I’d not seen him since a short visit he’d made to the Cape 20 years before. But this was to be an extra special trip. A/T-S

After our Etosha drive, we headed to Rafidim, and spent two unforgettable days on Siggi’s farm. We were spoilt by his wife’s culinary talent, went hunting and micro-light flying, and shared precious moments reminiscing over a few glasses of the best. We grudgingly moved on to Twyfelfontein, with a promise to return and conquer the Khaudum game reserve and Naye-Naye conservancy. The roads to Twyvelfontein were dusty and hot. En route we visited the Petrified Forest, with its fossilised 30m-long tree trunks that are around 280 million years old. We passed a spot where Siggi and I had rescued two young German ladies when their Beetle got stuck in deep river sand – that was, after we’d freed our own Landy, of course! At Twyfelfontein, a Visitor’s Centre has been erected where you pay for a guided tour. I remember the tranquil, peaceful but blisteringly hot place where you crawled over boulders and rubble to find the next piece of rock art – like a treasure hunt! This is the largest known concentration of Stone Age Petroglyphs, or Bushman rock engravings, on the African continent. There are about 2500 of them, and there are paintings as well.

The iron oxide in the sandstone undergoes an oxidation process over millennia and that changes its colour. The sandstone is basically rusting on the surface. Bushmen found out that stone “injuries” revealed a much lighter colour, and that is one theory as to what gave rise to Rock Art engravings.

The White Lady

We moved on, and I got a bit carried away when showing my friends the Burned Mountain and the beautiful Damaraland landscape. The blue sky, the mountains and koppies in colours ranging from red to black, and the long, silver-golden Aristida grass that stretches as far as the eye can see made me drive on and on along the track we were on. Soon, though, we found it had turned into a stiﬀ 4x4 trail with steep ascents, dips and great axle twisters, with welwitschias next to the road. Common sense turned us around, as there had been no other cars for miles! The White Lady Lodge at Brandberg was our refuge for the night, but it was to be a long trip getting there. For the second time, the Tracks4Africa map chip insisted on taking us on an

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opportunity to do some “legal beach driving” proved too inviting to pass up, so we went to inspect it further. Still waiting for the axle, we took the Welwitschia Plains 4x4 trail, about 50km east of Swakop. On the way we passed the famous “Moonscapes of the Namib” that shelter the Swakop riverbed. The Welwitschia mirabilis is a fascinating plant, with some specimens said to be up to 2000 years old. Right at the spot where the largest plant is protected by a fence, we met a German professor who gave us a short lecture on how to determine the plant’s age. We learned that welwitschias feed on the sea’s moisture (as mist), and that a delicate and shallow root system keeps them alive. On our return trip we took the gravel road via Goanikontes – a beautiful oasis in the Moon Valley of the Swakop River, which is well worth the drive.

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adventurous trail through deep, difficult and fuel-sapping sand alongside the Ugab riverbed. When we made it to the lodge at sunset, the receptionist told us that many travellers were lured onto that track by the T4A GPS, and checked us in with a smile. The safari suite tents were great, the staff were friendly, the food warm and the beer ice cold. I was warned that tent No 1 was prone to visitors, and a scratching sound in the early hours of the morning got me up and alert, camera in hand. Sadly, it was just an employee starting the “donkey” for our hot shower. Maybe next time I’ll be lucky enough to receive a visit from the White Lady! We took an elephant drive with a Damara guide up the Ugab riverbed – well worth the 150 Namibian dollars fee – but you must have a proper 4x4. After half an hour of deep sand driving, we caught sight of the elusive desert elephants. There were apparently 23 of them, but we couldn’t see them all in the dense bush. Tales of broken down soft-roaders and long walks back to the lodge abound, but we left the White Lady smiling – albeit with an almost empty fuel tank. We headed to Uis for fuel. Uis is a small town that, when tin mining ceased, nearly joined the list of Namibian ghost towns. Now there’s a kind of renaissance tourism breathing life into the area. A supermarket, lodge, restaurant, guesthouse, rest camp and (thankfully) a filling station make up the town. Here we also saw the famed Ovahimbas – women and children dressed in leather and covered in the Otjize mixture of red ochre and animal fat.

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Turning back

From Uis we took the picturesque road past the Spitzekoppe Wilderness Area known for its San paintings, and the Bushman’s Paradise with its massive granite rock faces that are rock climbers’ favourite. We had camped here often in the past, and tried to do so again, but on closer inspection decided to push on, back to Villa Wiese. It was hard to turn south. When I looked back for the last time towards that peak – standing out of the flat surrounds so dramatically – I felt great sadness to be leaving, and promised myself that I’d return. Back in Walvis, there was more frustration – our trailer was not ready for us. We were told that it was fixed, but when we went to collect it we found that the rear wheel that had been replaced now had a spare wheel with very little tread fitted to it. On top of that, it was completely out of camber.

Reunited: Jurgen, left, and his old friend, Siegfried the farmer. I called the rental company in Cape Town and told them the trailer would be returned by truck, and we headed for Windhoek. We took the old, dusty C28, over two mountain passes and the rolling hills of the Khomas Hochland. It was extremely hot, and the Jeep’s temperature indicator almost touched red for the first time when we reached the top of Boshua Pass. We stopped to take in the view and some refreshing cold drinks, and pushed on to the city. Windhoek didn’t surprise me as much as the rest of the country as I’d been there recently on business, and seen some of the changes. Marion’s B&B was a winner, and the food was simply outstanding (kudos to chef Peter, who does it as a hobby!). We didn’t have much time, but paid a visit to Joe’s Beerhouse and bargained for souvenirs. My friends made calls to their families in Germany, and then we set off south. Our Jeep was now packed to the brim, and we headed down to Mariental to take a few photos. This was a request from Erich, as he and his fianceé had been stranded there in their Karmann Ghia in 1974, and had to stay four nights in the only hotel. We stopped in Keetmans as well, and then pushed on to Quiver Tree Forest Rest Camp. We watched a spectacular cheetah feeding in the afternoon, visited Giant’s Playground with its precariously balanced dolerite rock formations, and then spent the golden hour in the magical Kokerboom Forest. This wonderful product of nature, the Aloe dichotoma or quiver tree, isn’t really a tree. It’s one of the most interesting and characteristic endemic plants of the stony semi-deserts of southern Africa. It is the embodiment of solitude and desolation and a symbol for struggle, harshness, tenacity and beauty. For me, it is inseparable from my old South-West memories. We experienced a stunning sunset and a nearly full moon, and took photos to remember them by. The next morning we had an early breakfast in Koës and a roller-coaster ride over the dunes to Mata Mata. We then

crossed the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (which I remember as the Kalahari Gemsbok Park) and the Namibian border, staying two nights in the Twee Rivieren cottage. There were animals in abundance due to great rains earlier in the year, and the golden grass on the red dunes to a backdrop of a clear blue sky was imprinted in our memories. When we ﬁnally reached SA, the long road to the Cape was a bit of an anti-climax. We did stop at Augrabies, but after that the weather suited our mood as gusty winds and rain hit us, with Van Ryns Pass covered in clouds. As we drove along quietly in the cold, we thought back to the 7750km we’d travelled in the warm, welcoming and peaceful country of Namibia. It had gone by too quickly, and we were already planning our next trip.

What we drove Our trusty vehicle was a customised Jeep Cherokee 2,5 litre CRD. It performed well in towing the trailer, on gravel, in deep sand and on tar – and it’s the best-looking 4x4 (without making wild fashion statements, Victoria!). It was ﬁtted with Bridgestone Dueler D694 A/T 245/75 R16 – not a single puncture – and an Algae 200 Diesel Fuel Conditioner. Average fuel consumption with trailer: 12.7 l/100km Total average consumption for trip: 11.3 l/100km

What we learnt • Never travel without a hat, water and sunglasses • Don’t forget your medication! • Only 500ppm diesel is freely available in Namibia, so have a decent map and install Tracks4Africa • Travel with a good set of tools, some spares, a tyre pressure monitor and a GPS • Take MTP’s Aloe Vera toilet paper, Crocs footwear and ear plugs for a good night’s sleep!

H/T-S

Adventure