Raconteur Magazine

RACONTEUR

CONTENTS

4

A n I nvi ta ti on to the Tabl e

7

O a k & the S c e nt of Steak 12

A Note fr om A ndy

Fi nd i ng Tr ea s ur e i n the Wind G aps

17

27

33

38

H i g h A top the H i l l s I n Pur s ui t of Ba la n ce A t a n E a te r y Nea r Yo u

South Afric a ’s New Ge neratio n

41

47

52

Thos e Gr eed y Ba b o o ns A Note fr om R eb e cca

Good b ye Fus i on, H e llo F issio n!

55

Bur g und y fr om the Bi rd’s Ey e

63

67

75

H a ng over wi th a Hal o Terro ir’s Ca lifor nia Hom e

*

CREDITS

EXECU TIV E EDITO R

DES IG N DIR EC TOR

A RT I C L E S E D I T O R

Ali Banks

Leo Basica

Eliza Coleman

I LLUST R AT I O N S :

Billy Simons (bicycle illustrations) | Leslie Lewis Sigler (map & invitations)

C O V ER PH OTO :

Pg. 2

Fred Lyon (fredlyon.com)

HELLO

“ Af t e r n o ur i s h m e n t , s h e l t e r a n d co m p a nionship , s t o r i e s a r e t h e t h i n g w e n e e d m o s t in t he w orl d . ” - Ph i l i p Pul l m a n

Sto ri e s a r e i n d e e d , un i ve r s a l t h i n g s , s p o n t a n e o us t hing s, t he ver y fa b ric of l i fe . We w r i t e n e w p a g e s i n o ur o w n s t o r i e s a l l t he t im e. We int era ct w it h p e o p l e , a n d n e w s t o r i e s e m e r g e : ch a r a ct e r s a r e a d d ed , set t ing s cha ng e, u ne xp e c ted p l o t l i n e s a p p e a r. It i s i n t h i s w a y t ha t ever y d a y, t he d eg rees o f s e p a r a t i o n b e t w e e n e a ch o f us d i m i n i s h , t h a t t he w orld feel s a l it t l e co z i e r, a l i t t l e w a r m e r, a l i t t l e b et t er.

Wi ne i s i n e x t r i ca b l y i n t e r t w i n e d w i t h s t o r i e s . A lt hou g h it is ju st a hu m b le l i q u i d , th a t l i q ui d b e a r s e vi d e n ce o f t h e s o i l s i t orig ina t ed in, reflect s t he s u n tha t s h o n e up o n i t s g r a p e s o r t h e cl o ud s t h a t shrou d ed t hem , a nd sp ea ks o f the hu m a n h a n d s t h a t t e n d e d i t s vi n e s . H o w sim il a r t ha t is t o w ha t ou r o wn s to ri e s t e l l a b o ut us — w h e r e w e ca m e f r o m , w ha t sha p ed u s, w ho ha s i nte rs e c te d w i t h us a n d i n f l ue n ce d us … Pe r h a p s t ha t is one rea son t ha t w ine d o e s m o r e t h a n j us t t e l l i t s o w n s t o r y— i t bring s ou t ou r st ories.

Wi ne , l i k e g r e a t a r t , h a s t h e a b i l i t y t o un l o ck t he sou l; w ine fl ood s u s w it h c o nne c ti o n , m a k e s i t e a s i e r t o m ut ua l l y e n j o y t h e w ond er fu l g ift of life w e’ ve a l l b e e n g i ve n .

We a re b le s s e d t o h a ve e n r i ch e d o ur l i ve s w i t h so m a ny st ories t ol d a rou nd the d i nn e r t a b l e . S t o r i e s t o l d b y us , s t o r i e s t o l d b y friend s, new st ories f o r g e d t o g e t h e r. An d a l w a ys t h ere is w ine.

I n the s e p a g e s , w e i n vi t e yo u t o m e e t t h e p e o p l e w ho ha ve insp ired u s, a nd who s e l i v es h a ve b e co m e i n t e r t w i n e d w i t h o ur s t hrou g h w ine a nd w ho ha ve no w c o me t o g e t h e r t o cr e a t e a w i n e co m p a n y unlike a ny ot her. A s you rea d the s e s to r i e s , yo u w i l l b e a m a z e d h o w t h e d o t s connect . Fu r t her m ore, w e ho p e y o u w i l l f i n d yo ur s e l f t h i ck i n t h e m i d d l e , a l iving p a r t of it a ll, a vit a l ch a r a ct e r i n a n e w a n d w o n d er fu l st or y.

Pg. 3

A N I N V I TAT I O N T O T H E TA B L E

In 1 99 3 , C ha rl e s a nd I f l e w f r o m A t l a n t a , w h e r e w e w e r e l i v ing , t o C a r m el t o celeb ra t e ou r second anni v e rs a r y. We l i v e d o n a ve r y l e a n b ud g e t i n t h o s e d a ys a nd w e sp ent a lm ost ever yt hing w e m a d e cha s i ng d re a ms a nd m a k i n g m e m o r i e s .

R e l a t i ve t o o ur m o dest incom e, even w it h ou r “free” t ra vel

perk s fro m my j o b a s a f l i g h t a t t e n d a n t , o ur t r a ve l b ud g e t d i d not reflect m u ch p ru d ence. M ost m ont hs, my mi d - mo nth c he c k wa s i n f a ct a b i l l f r o m D e l t a b e ca us e w e h a d t ra veled m ore t ha n I’ d w orked . Who knows ho w we ma na ge d t o s ur vi ve , b ut w e d i d , a n d i t w a s f u n!

It wa s o n tha t tri p tha t o ur w i n e j o ur n e y b e g a n . We h a d $ 4 0 set a sid e for a sp ecia l b ea ch p icnic nig h t … a b o ttl e o f wi n e , ch e e s e , b r e a d , a n d t h e s un s e t . E a r l ier in t he d a y, w e ha d sp ot t ed a q u a int win e s ho p a t the to p of O ce a n Ave . t h a t s e e m e d a ve r i t a b l e t rea su re t rove. We convinced ou rselves that a mi d s t a l l tho s e bo t t l e s , t h e r e w o ul d ce r t a i n l y b e o n e t h a t w ou ld b efit ou r cel eb ra t ion a nd a lso ou r b u d ge t.

Cer ta i n tha t the s a l e b i n w o ul d b e i n t h e b a ck , w e s t r o d e p a st t he cou nt er w it h feig ned confid ence and a no nc ha l a nt wa ve . N o vi ce s t h a t w e w e r e , w e d i d n ’t r ea lize t ha t “w e need no help ” in a w ine sho p tra ns l a te s to , “ H i ! We w i l l b e t r e a s ur e h un t i n g i n t h e b ack. M eet u s t here. ” A s if on cu e, Kent , the e v e r a f fa b l e o wne r, m e t us t h e r e . H e co ul d n ’t w a i t t o t a lk shop w it h m em b ers of “t he cl u b . ” You see , a l tho u gh no s u c h o f f i ci a l cl ub e x i s t s , i t e x i s t s . An d K e n t j u st m ig ht b e t he lifet im e p resid ent . Wit h two gl a s s e s i n ha nd a n d a h ug e s m i l e o n h i s f a ce , h i s s i m p l e q u est ions a b ou t w ine som ehow p la nt ed see d s tha t ha v e gro wn i n t o a l i f e l o n g f r i e n d s h i p .

You s e e , K e nt’s l o v e of w i n e i s o n l y s ur p a s s e d b y h i s l o ve for p eop l e. His joy in l ife com es from mat c hi ng p e o p l e wi th w i n e s a n d ch e e s e s t h a t cr e a t e m o m ent s t ha t a g e in t heir m em ories l ike t he bea u ti fu l wi ne s he s e l l s , e ve n t h e ch e a p o n e s . O p e n i n g t h e door a nd invit ing p eop le in t o “t he cl u b ” is h i s gi ft to the wo rl d .

Ke nt p ro c e e d e d to o p e n s e ve r a l b o t t l e s o f w i n e t o h e l p us f i n d ju st t he rig ht one. He b rou g ht u s t o t he front o f the s ho p , i ntro d uce d us t o h i s o t h e r s a l e s p e o p l e a n d t o ot her cu st om ers in t he shop , b eg a n pai ri ng d i f fe re nt c he e se s w i t h t h e w i n e s w e w e r e s a m p l i n g a nd set t ing a sid e ones he sa w t ha t w e liked . H i s ge ne ro s i ty a n d e n t h us i a s m f o r cr a f t i n g o ur p e r f e ct n ig ht w ere b ou nd less. He w rot e d ow n on little c a rd s the d e ta i l s of t h e ch e e s e s w e ch o s e , “ s h e e p ’s m i l k c heese from a g ra ssy hil lsid e in Fra nce”, “ g oa t’s c he e s e a ge d fo r 1 2 m o n t h s i n a s h ” . Th e s a l e h a d t o cost him m oney. Unb elieva b l y, w e l eft only slightl y o v e r b u d ge t b ut w i t h t h e m o s t p e r f e ct p i cn i c a n d m e mories t ha t a re p riceless.

Pg. 4

A few mo nths l a te r, I n e e d e d a b i r t h d a y g i f t f o r Ch a r l e s . I d ecid ed t o ca ll Kent — a b it of a l a rk b u t wor th the tr y, I tho u ght. W h a t w e r e t h e ch a n ce s h e w o ul d r e mem b er t he cou p le w ho b ou g ht one b ot t le of wi ne a nd a fe w c he e s e s ? N o t o n l y d i d h e r e m e m b e r us , h e rem em b ered a l l t he w ines he’ d op ened , whic h o ne s we ’ d l i k e d a n d w h i ch o n e s w e h a d n ’t l i k e d . “ This t im e I ha ve a lit t l e m ore t o sp end — $25 0 , ” I s a i d . “ I ’ d l i k e t o r e a l l y w o w Ch a r l e s a n d g i ve h i m a w hole ca se. C a n you d o t ha t a nd w rit e ou t a l l tho s e l i ttl e c a rd s w i t h t h e d e t a i l s a n d i n t e r e s t i n g f a ct s for m e?’ It a rrived m ore cu ra t ed a nd thoughtfu l tha n I ’ d d re a m e d p o s s i b l e .

W itho u t re a l i zi ng i t, K en t b e g a n t h e s t o r y o f o ur j o ur n e y t h r ou g h t he w ine w orld . It w a s b eca u se of Ke nt’s k i nd ne s s a nd ge n e r o s i t y t h a t C h a r l e s f e l l i n l o ve w i t h w i ne a nd I fell in love w it h t he p eop l e w ho love wi ne .

Alth o u gh the re i s o nl y o n e K e n t i n t h i s w o r l d , t h e r e a r e t h o u sa nd s like him , op ening t his sa m e d oor for o the rs d a i l y. I ns i d e t h e d o o r i s a w o r l d t h a t i s e ve r -e x p and ing b eca u se t he onl y req u irem ent for me mb e rs hi p i s a p a s s i on f o r s h a r i n g .

Acr o s s t h e p l a n e t a n d w e ca n sp ot “m em b ers” a t a ll t yp es of

g athe ri ngs . A s e c re t ha n d s h a k e w o ul d b e i m p o s s i b l e b e ca us e w e w a lk int o room s ca rr ying ou r la t est disco v e ri e s : a b o ttl e o f w i n e , a n e w d i s h w e ’ve m a d e , a k i t chen t ool, a sp ecia l olive oil, som et hing we ’v e j u s t tri e d tha t we ca n ’t w a i t t o s h a r e ! But s h a r i n g f o o d and w ine a rou nd t he t a b le is ju st t he w a y we s e t the s ta ge fo r s o m e t h i n g g r e a t e r – s h a r i n g o ur s t o r i e s , and u lt im a t ely, ou r lives.

Cer ta i nl y, we ne v e r tho ug h t t h a t o n e q ui ck s t o p i n t h e Ch e e s e Shop in C a r m el w ou ld set in m ot ion a ll that i s ha s . We l o o k for w a r d t o b e i n g a r o un d t h e t a b l e w i t h you . Hea ring you r st ories, t a st ing you r reci p e s , tr y i ng y o u r grea t f i n d s , a n d , m o s t i m p o r t a n t l y, s h a r i n g life w it h you .

Pg. 5

billy’s bicycle drawing here

Pg. 6

STEAK & THE SCENT OF OAK

The fields are large and open, and at the back sit a big long dining table shaded by giant oaks, a grill, and a fire pit for al fresco cooking and dining. They’ve even created a backyard speakeasy…

P H O T O C R E DI T

An n ie Favia, Al ex Bec kstead, J oel l e J af fe, Bil l y Simon s

Pg. 7

LIFESTYLE SHOTS

Pg. 8

N A PA , C A

L E V I AT H A N

It’s imp o s s i b l e to s p e nd t i m e a t A n n i e a n d An d y’s

But , discu ssing t erroir a nd soils a nd a sp ect s, a s

proper ty a nd no t c o ns i d er w a n t i n g t o t r a d e y o ur

t h e y do a ll d a y long a t w ork a nd a t fa ncy w ine

life for the i rs . I t’s a p e a c ef ul , b e a ut i f ul , n e a r l y s e l f -

e ve n t s, is not a l w a ys su it ed t o t heir “b a ckya rd ”

su f ficient l i ttl e u ni v e rs e tu ck e d w i t h i n t h e vi n e ya r d s

s h i n d ig s. Som et im es you need a w ine t ha t is ju st

of Nap a . A nni e te nd s th e m o s t a m a z i n g g a r d e n ,

p l a i n del iciou s, a nd d oes not need a ny d iscu ssion

with e v e r y k i nd o f v e ge ta b l e , h e r b , a n d l e g um e yo u

o r i n t el lect u a l p a rsing . A nd t ha t is t he id ea b ehind

can ima gi ne , p l u s fru i t tre es a n d e ve n t e a p l a n t s . O n

L e vi a t ha n.

top of tha t, the y k e e p b e e s a n d h a ve a ch i ck e n co o p from w hi c h the i r d a u ghte r s f e t ch f r e s h e g g s d a i l y.

L e vi a t ha n is a red b l end of t he b est fru it C a l ifor nia

Andy is the gri l l ma s te r, c o n s t a n t l y i n p ur s ui t o f t h e

h a s t o of fer ea ch yea r. Dra w n from som e of t he

best te c hni q u e s fo r c o o k i n g a n yt h i n g f r o m r i b e y e t o

b e s t v ineya rd sou rces a cross t he st a t e, it u su a lly

squ ash v i a o u td o o r fi re o f s o m e f o r m o r a n o t h e r.

i n cl udes C a b er net Sa u vig non, C a b er net Fra nc, S y r a h , a nd M erlot .

T he fiel d s a re l a rge a nd o p e n , a n d a t t h e b a ck s i t a big l o ng d i ni ng ta b l e s h a d e d b y g i a n t o a k s , a

“ E ve r y yea r, ” sa ys A nd y, “We a re of fered fru it

g rill, a nd a fi re p i t fo r a l f r e s co co o k i n g a n d d i n i n g .

f r o m a m a zing vineya rd sit es, ea ch d el ivering

T hey’ve e v e n c re a te d a b a ck y a r d s p e a k e a s y — An d y,

i n t e r e st ing b lend ing com p onent s from d if ferent

along w i th A nni e ’s b ro the r, co m p l e t e l y r e t r o f i t t e d a n

va r i e t i es. Fit t ing t hese t og et her l ike a p u zzle

old airs tre a m the y fo u nd a n d t ur n e d i t i n t o “ t h e b a r ”

cr e a t es L evia t ha n. Wha t I l ove a b ou t L evia t ha n

and pa rk e d i t ne a r the d i n i n g a r e a . Th i s f a b ul o us

i s t h a t , if you look cl osely, you ca n p u ll ou t t he

place i s , o f c o u rs e , ho me t o l o t s o f f un p a r t i e s .

n ua n ces of t he ind ivid u a l va riet ies. Bu t t he w ine a l s o h a s a cha ra ct er a ll it s ow n. ”

In thei r p ro fe s s i o na l l i v e s , An d y a n d An n i e a r e both q u i te s e ri o u s . A nni e k n o w s e ve r y t h i n g a b o ut

Th a t cha ra ct er m a kes L evia t ha n p er fect for a ny

viticu ltu re (a nd p l a nts i n g e n e r a l ) a n d h a s b e e n

d i n n e r p a r t y —it ’s a b ig , b ol d , d eliciou s w ine

respons i b l e fo r the p l a nti ng ( a n d r e p l a n t i n g ) o f m a n y

t h a t n ever fa il s t o p lea se.

a famo u s Na p a v i ne y a rd . A s a s e l f d e s cr i b e d “ h o w ” person, A nd y i s c o mmi tte d t o l e a r n i n g h o w t o m a k e the ve r y b e s t wi ne s whe reve r h e i s m a k i n g t h e m . H e is an e xp e r t a t l e tti ng the t e r r o i r s h i n e t h r o ug h i n h i s wine s, s o tha t the y re ma i n s i t e -s p e ci f i c, w h i l e a l s o creating a v e r y e l e ga nt f i n i s h e d p r o d uct . F o r t h a t reason, he i s e v e r i n hi gh d e m a n d a s a co n s ul t i n g wine ma k e r.

Pg. 9

Pg. 10

Pg. 11

A NOTE FROM ANDY W ine i s s o me thi ng tha t h a s b r o ug h t m e g r e a t

Pe o p l e w ho knew m e a nd w orked w it h m e sa id “t here

frie ndsh i p s a nd ta k e n me t o a m a z i n g p a r t s o f t h e

w a s a g uy I ha d t o m eet ” in Sa nt a Ba rb a ra , som eone

w orld. I t’s ta u ght me a b o ut h i s t o r y a n d p a t i e n ce ,

t h a t I wou ld w a nt t o w ork w it h.

and it e v e n b ro u ght me m y w i f e a n d l i f e p a r t n e r.

d e cl i n e d , ha ving q u it e a b it of w ork t o d o in N a p a

Growin g u p i n the mi d d l e o f a g r i cul t ur a l l a n d i n

Va l l e y.

E lkhar t, I nd i a na , I thi nk that ’s w h e r e I f i r s t w a s d r a w n

n o t w a n t t o d iver t focu s from m y new p roject s. “N o,

to the id e a s o f fa r mi ng a nd cr a f t s m a n s h i p .

y o u r e a l ly need t o m eet t his g u y, ” t hese p eop le kep t

A t first I p ol it ely

I ha d a lw a ys l oved Sa nt a Ba rb a ra , b u t d id

saying.

After stu d y i ng a nd tra v e l i ng , I a r r i ve d i n N a p a Va l l e y w ith a f e w p ho ne nu mb e rs a n d a n i d e a t h a t I w o ul d

S o , i n t he su m m er of 2 0 0 3 , I fl ew d ow n a nd m et

tr y this a s a v o c a ti o n. I ha ve b e e n s o b l e s s e d w i t h

w i t h C h a rles for t he first t im e.

the peo p l e I ’ v e me t a nd th e p l a ce s I’ve b e e n a b l e

a w a y t ha t w e sha red m ore t ha n ju st a p a ssion for

to w ork .

wine.

F ro m Jo hn K o ng s g a a r d , M i ch e l R o l l a n d ,

It w a s clea r rig ht

We w ere b ot h b or n in t he sa m e yea r, w ere

and Da v i d A b re u , to P hi l C o t ur r i a n d R a j Pa r r — t h e s e

m a r r i e d t o incred ib l y st rong w om en, a nd w ere a t t he

pe ople wi th s i mi l a r p a s s i on s co n t i n ue t o f o r m m y

p o i n t i n ou r ca reers w here w e w ou l d w ork a s ha rd a

vie w of wi ne a nd gra p e gr o w i n g .

n e ce s s a r y t o rea l ize ou r visions for w ha t w e w a nt ed o ut o f w ork a nd life. We d ecid ed t o w ork t og et her,

In 2003 , A nni e a nd I we re s t a r t i n g a f a m i l y, h a vi n g

a n d s e t t o w ork t o crea t e J ona t a in t he Sa nt a Ynez

ju st had two b e a u ti fu l d a ug h t e r s i n l e s s t h a n t w o

Va l l e y, wit h ou r g ood friend M a t t Dees.

years. We ta l k e d a l o t a b o ut w h e r e w e w e r e g o i n g , and fai rl y q u i c k l y d e c i d e d t o “ s t a r t o ur o w n t h i n g . ”

I r e m e mb er a t t he t im e C ha rl es sa ying , “If J ona t a

We imm e d i a te l y me t a ha n d f ul o f g r e a t p o t e n t i a l

g o e s w ell, w e cou ld d o som et hing in N a p a t og et her,

clie nts, a nd he a d e d d o wn t h e p a t h t o cr e a t e t w o n e w

a n d o t h er t hing s t oo. ”

w ine rie s – Ov i d Na p a Val l e y a n d D a n ci n g

Hares

m e a n w orking t og et her on t hree of t he m ost im p or t a nt

– and I to o k the re i ns a t A r i e t t a , f r o m m y f r i e n d a n d

vi n e y a r ds in C a lifor nia , a nd t ra vel ing a l l over t he

mentor Jo hn K o ngs ga a rd . We a l s o o f f i ci a l l y s t a r t e d

g l o b e i n sea rch of ot her cool op p or t u nit ies?

ou r Fav i a l a b e l , fo r whi c h w e h a d a l r e a d y b e e n

ce r t a i n l y is g rea t w hen you fol low you r p a ssion.

making wi ne fo r s e v e ra l y ea r s .

Pg. 12

Who knew t ha t t his w ou l d

L ife

Pg. 13

ANNIE & ANDY’S WHOLE BONELESS RIB EYE W/ CHIMICHURRI & GRILLED VEGGIES From Siete Fuegos, by Francis Mallmann (Serves 20 people)

INGREDIENTS Rib Eye 1 boneless rib-eye roast, 6 to 10 pounds Coarse salt 2 cups Chimichurri, or more if desired 6 bay leaves

Salumuera 1 cup water 1 tablespoon coarse salt To make the salmuera, bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the salt and stir until it dissolves. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Chimichurri (makes about 2 cups) 1 head garlic, separated into cloves and peeled 1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 cup fresh oregano leaves 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Pg. 14

Preparing the chimichurri: Mince the garlic very fine and put in a medium bowl. Mince the parsley and oregano and add to the garlic, along with the red pepper flakes. Whisk in the red wine vinegar and then the olive oil. Whisk in the salmuera. Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid, and keep in the refrigerator. Chimichurri is best prepared at least 1 day in advance, so that the flavors have a chance to blend. The chimichurri can be kept refrigerated for 2 to 3 weeks.

Preparing the Rib Eye: Heat a wood-fired oven or a home oven to approximately 450F. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with coarse salt and coat on all sides with half the chimichurri (reserve the rest for serving). Scatter the bay leaves over the meat. Place on a rack in a large roasting pan and roast for 20 minutes. Lower the heat to 350F and roast for approximately 10 minutes more per pound for rare (120F). Transfer to a carving board and let rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing. Carve the beef and serve with the remaining chimichurri.

We like to serve this with grilled veggies – anything that’s in season! Just oil it, salt it, and toss it on the grill or on a plancha (cast iron skillet) on top of the grill. Seared tomatoes on the plancha are delicious! Sprinkle with fresh chopped basil. We also love to grill eggplant and peppers, and in the fall we cook pumpkin, squash, and potatoes by burying them in the coals.

Pg. 15

Pg. 16

FINDING TREASURE IN THE WIND GAPS

The production has remained small and the brand still has a cool underground feel to it, like the garage lab of a rogue cowboy-Francophile-winemaker.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Er ic Wol fin ger, Bil l y Simon s, J oh n M cJu nki n

Pg. 17

Pg. 18

SONOMA, CA

WIND GAP

W ine l o v e rs wi l l k no w th e n a m e Pa x M a h l e f r o m h i s

b y F r ench st yl es of w inem a king , it w a s t he b old ,

first (e p o ny mo u s ) wi ne r y – Pa x – a n d w i l l p r o b a b l y

p o w er fu l P a x Syra hs t ha t first b rou g ht p ra ise a nd

re me mb e r the d i s ti nc ti v e o va l l a b e l s i n a n a r r a y

a t t e n tion t o P a x in his new cha p t er a s a som m el ier-

of sol i d c o l o rs , e a c h wi t h a n a n ci e n t l o o k i n g m a p

t ur n e d -w inem a ker.

illu str a ti o n a nd the b o l d un f o r g e t t a b l e b l a ck “ PAX” ancho ri ng the d e s i gn. Hi s n e w p r o j e ct s – W i n d

W h i l e t he P a x Syra hs cont inu ed t o b e p op u la r,

Gap a nd A gha r ta – ha ve t a k e n a d i f f e r e n t r o ut e

M a h l e’s w inem a king jou r ney ha d rea l ly onl y ju st

than the P a x wi ne s , y e t t h e i m a g e r y o f m a p p i n g i s

b e g un. A t t he t im e, P a x w a s sou rcing fru it from a

still a t the he a r t o f hi s l a b e l s ; a n o d t o h i s p e r h a p s

n um b er of d if ferent vineya rd s. O ne yea r, one su ch

char te re d , p e rha p s wi nd -d i r e ct e d j o ur n e y t h r o ug h

vi n e ya rd ha d a n u nu su a lly cool g row ing sea son.

the w i ne wo rl d .

F e r m ent ing in sing l e b a rrels, M a hl e fou nd t ha t t he w i n e s p rod u ced from t his cooler sit e ha d t he a l lu ring

In the l a te ni ne ti e s , M a h l e w a s s t ud y i n g f o r h i s

f r e s h ness he ha d a lw a ys l oved in French w ines. He

Maste r S o mme l i e r e xa m a f t e r w o r k i n g f o r y e a r s a s

b e l i e ved t hey w ere t he kind of w ines one cou l d d rink

a somme l i e r i n Na ntu c k e t , w h e r e h e m e t h i s w i f e

e ve r y nig ht w it h d inner, su m m er or w int er, w herea s he

P am, a s we l l a s Sa ra s o ta a n d S co t t s d a l e . But w h i l e

n o w f el t t he P a x Syra hs seem ed t oo hea vy for nig ht l y

on a tri p to F ra nc e , he m e t w i n e m a k e r s H e n r i J a y e r

d r i n k ing . (Unl ess of cou rse, one lived som ew here

and Ja c q u e s R e y na u d , tw o w i n e m a k e r s w h o m a d e

co l d a nd w a nt ed t o d ine on b oeu f b ou rg u ig non b y

him rea l i ze he wa nte d to b e a s cl o s e t o t h e w i n e s a s

a co z y a fire ever y nig ht …

the y w e re – wo rk i ng wi th t h e vi n e s , s l o s h i n g t h r o ug h the m u d — ra the r tha n j u s t t a l k i n g a b o ut a n d t a s t i n g

H e cont inu ed exp erim ent ing w it h fru it from cool er

w ine . A s he p u t i t, he d i s co ve r e d h e w a n t e d t o b e

g r o w ing reg ions a nd b eg a n p icking a t l ow er su g a r

“the g u y i n the d i r ty b o o t s r a t h e r t h a n t h e g uy i n t h e

l e ve l s, a nd in t he m id -2 0 0 0 s, he crea t ed t he Wind

bowti e . ”

G a p la b el a s a n ou t let for t his new d irect ion. The w i n e s inst a nt l y ca u g ht on w it h som m el iers. The

Not to o ma ny y e a rs l a te r, Pa x a n d Pa m l a un ch e d

p r o d uct ion ha s rem a ined sm a ll a nd t he b ra nd st ill

the P a x l a b e l , whi c h ga r n e r e d h i g h s co r e s a n d m uch

h a s a cool u nd erg rou nd feel t o it , l ike t he g a ra g e

notori e ty. T ho u gh he ha s a l w a ys b e e n i n f l ue n ce d

l a b of a rog u e cow b oy-Fra ncop hile-w inem a ker.

Pg. 19

To d a y, t h a t i m a g e o f t h e m a p f r o m t h e o r i g ina l P a x la b el s is st ill s o ve r y r e l e va n t t o w h a t Pa x a n d Pa m , w h o ha s b een inst ru m ent a l a t e ve r y s t e p o f t h e w a y, b r i n g t o t h e C a l i f or nia w ine l a nd sca p e.

To fo l l o w M a h l e a n d h i s cur i o s i t y a n d e ve r - evolving a p p roa ch is l i k e f o l l o w i n g a t r e a s ur e m a p t h r o ug h t h e worl d of w ine.

H e ’s d i s co ve r e d l i t t l e p o t s o f g o l d a r o un d ever y cor ner – in t he l i te r a l “ w i n d g a p s ” o n t h e S o n o m a co a st t ha t crea t e int ense p a c i f i c w i n d s a n d i n t e r e s t i n g g r o w i n g cond it ions, in w holec l u st e r a n d w i l d ye a s t f e r m e n t a t i o n , i n esot eric va riet a ls l ike B l a u f r a n k i s ch – a n d h e ’s e a g e r t o s h a r e e a ch new t rea su re w it h hi s l o ya l f o l l o w i n g .

H e e ve n m a k e s a n o r a n g e w i n e ! U s i n g a hist oric, b u t now u nc o m m o n t e ch n i q ue , h e m a k e s a Pi n o t Gris t ha t is left on t he s k i n s , f r o m w h o s e p i g m e n t s t h e w i n e a t t a i ns a p inkish-ora ng ish hu e. Ba s e d up o n Pa x ’s t r a ck r e co r d i n j udg ing t he d irect ion of the w i n d , i t ’s p r o b a b l y a s a f e b e t t h a t i n a yea r, ora ng e w ines wi l l b e a l l t h e r a g e .

A NOTE FROM CHARLES A B O U T M E E T I N G PA X Pa x a n d I f i r s t m e t i n 1 9 9 9 w h e n h e w a s in t he w ine d e p a r t m e n t a t D e a n a n d D e l uca i n N a p a . He ha d t his h i l a r i o us o ut f i t t h e y h a d t o w e a r, r e p l e t e w it h a b eret -like h a t , i f I r e ca l l co r r e ct l y … Pe r h a p s t h e ha t ha s b ecom e e x a g g e r a t e d i n m y m e m or y!

D e s p i t e t h e o ut f i t , Pa x a n d I q ui ck l y b o n d ed , a nd I b eca m e o ne o f h i s b i g g e s t cus t o m e r s a n d h e b e ca m e m y ena b ler! We s ta y e d f r i e n d s e ve n a f t e r h e l e f t D e a n a n d Delu ca . I rem em b er on e n i g h t Al i a n d I h a d d i n n e r a t Te r r a in N a p a , a nd P a x c a m e r un n i n g o ve r t o o ur t a b l e a n d s a i d w e ha d t o t a st e his fi rst vi n t a g e o f Pa x w i n e s ! We l o ve d i t a nd w ere im m ed ia t ely h o o k e d . It h a s b e e n a p l e a s ur e w a t ch ing P a x cha se his d r e a m s a n d e vo l ve o ve r t h e l a s t f ift een yea rs.

Pg. 20

Pg. 21

Pg. 22

Pg. 23

Pg. 24

Pg. 25

Pg. 26

H I G H AT O P THE HILLS

More than any other single event, the Judg ment of Paris established American wines as being among the finest in the world.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Fr ed Lyon

Pg. 27

M AYA C A M A S

Abou t M a y a c a ma s , wi ne w r i t e r J o h n G i l m a n o n ce

a n s w e r, “M a ya ca m a s” is b el ieved t o ha ve m ea nt

said, “To my mi nd M a y a c a m a s r e m a i n s un e q ui vo ca l l y

“ t h e h o wl of t he m ou nt a in l ion. ” Bu t , a s t he la ng u a g e

Califor n i a ’s gre a te s t c a b e r n e t s a uvi g n o n p r o d uce r,

w a s n ever w rit t en, a nd it s sp ea kers a re no l ong er

w ith

amongst

w i t h us , t he orig ina l sense of t he w ord M a ya ca m a s

l o n g -l i ve d ,

r e m a i n s shrou d ed in t he q u iet t ha t a b id es a ft er

ag ewor thy a nd s tru c tu re d w i n e s t h a t e vo l ve f o r m a n y

vo i ce s ha ve cea sed , a nd t heir l a st echoes ha ve

de cade s a nd i mp ro v e i mm e a s ur a b l y w i t h e x t e n d e d

f a d e d . Wha t rem a ins is a n hom a g e t o t he m ea ning

bottle age . ”

o n t h e M a ya ca m a s la b el , in t he em b lem a t ic “M , ”

ve r y

l i ttl e

Califor n i a

re ma i ni ng

wi ne ri e s

fo r

co m p e t i t i o n p r o d uci n g

w h i ch bea rs t w o lions ra m p a nt d a ncing w it hin.

Known fo r i ts hi s to r y d a ti ng b a ck t o t h e l a t e 1 8 0 0 s , its w ild mo u nta i n s e tti ng, a n d i t s i n vo l ve m e n t i n

Th e w i ner y w a s b u ilt in 1 8 8 9 b y J ohn Henr y Fisher,

the famou s 1 9 7 1 “ Ju d gme n t o f Pa r i s ” w i n e t a s t i n g ,

a n i n t ense-l ooking , chisel ed -ja w ed Ger m a n w ho

Mayaca ma s ho l d s a s p e c i a l p l a ce i n t h e s a g a

h a d e m ig ra t ed from St u t t g a r t t o A m erica . Fisher a nd

of the N a p a Va l l e y, no t o n l y f o r w r i t e r s l i k e J o h n

h i s f a mily est a b lished Zinfa nd el vines a nd ra ised

Gilman b u t fo r a ny l o v e r o f t h e a r e a a n d i t s p a s t ,

t h e e d ifice of t he w iner y on t he g rou nd s of a n

inclu din g

and

o l d s h eep herd ing ra nch a t t he end of t he st eep ,

many conv e rs a ti o ns , whe n h e w a s f i n a l l y r e a d y f o r

d us t y, Red w ood -sha d ed t ra il on M ou nt Veed er, in

re tire me nt a nd a ne w c ha p t e r, Bo b Tr a ve r s s o l d t h e

t h e a m p hit hea t er-like b ow l of t he vol ca no cra t er,

prize d p ro p e r ty to C ha rl e s i n e a r l y 2 0 1 3 .

a n d n a m ed it Fisher a nd Sons. He sold his w ine

C ha rl e s

B a nk s .

After

f i ve

ye a r s

b y t h e b a rrel, ferr ying t he b a rriq u es b y b a rg e from Mayaca ma s Vi ne y a rd s i s l o ca t e d i n t h e M a y a ca m a s

t h e d o c k in t he N a p a River sou t h a cross t he b a y t o

Mou ntai ns tha t d i v i d e the N a p a a n d S o n o m a va l l e ys .

t h e E m ba rca d ero in Sa n Fra ncisco. From t here, t he

Ne ar the to p o f M o u nt Ve e d e r, t h e o l d s t o n e w i n e r y

b a r r e l s w ere rolled u p t he st reet s t o a col lect ive

w as du g i nto the s i d e o f a d o r m a n t vo l ca n o cr a t e r i n

b o t t l i n g hou se.

the late 19 th c e ntu r y. D e e r, e a g l e s , co ug a r s , f o x e s , bobcats , a nd a n o c c a s i o n a l b e a r a n d m o un t a i n

But , i n t he sm oking ru b b l e of t he a ft er m a t h of t he

lion

Obsidian

1 9 0 6 ea r t hq u a ke, Fisher w a s forced t o d ecl a re

arrowhea d s a nd s to ne gra i n -g r i n d i n g b o w l s f o un d

b a n k r up t cy. The p rop er t y cha ng ed ha nd s a few t im es

on the p ro p e r ty b e a r s i l e nt t e s t i m o n y t o M a y a ca m a s ’

o ve r t h e next d eca d es, a m a zing l y su r viving t hrou g h

first hu m a n i nha b i ta nts , the N a t i ve Am e r i ca n s o f t h e

p r o h i b i t ion, a s t he ow ners m a d e b oot leg w ine a nd

Wappo tri b e .

g r a p p a a nd sold com m u nion w ine t o t he C a t hol ic

sti l l

i nha b i t

thi s

ru g g e d

terrain.

ch ur ch . Then, in 1 9 4 1 , a Brit ish m a n na m ed J a ck It is fro m the Wa p p o l a n g ua g e t h a t t h e n a m e

Ta yl o r a nd his C a l ifor nia n w ife, M a r y, p u rcha sed

“Mayac a ma s ” d e ri v e s . T ho u g h t h e r e i s n o d e f i n i t i ve

t h e l a n d a nd re-christ ened t he est a t e M a ya ca m a s.

Pg. 28

M T. V E E D E R , N A PA , C A

1941 wa s the y e a r o f the L o n d o n Bl i t z ; J a ck w a s

A m e r i ca n w ines, a nd t he A m erica n w ine ind u st r y in

escaping H i tl e r’s fa l l i ng b om b s f o r a n e w, p a s t o r a l

g e n e r a l . In t he orig ina l t a st ing , M a ya ca m a s p l a ced

(and sti l l no t u nd e ma nd i n g ) l i f e o f N e w Wo r l d

7 t h . In t he second t a st ing , in 1 9 8 6 , it p l a ced 2 nd ,

w ine ma k i ng. T he Ta y l o rs p l a n t e d C h a r d o n n a y a n d

b e a t i n g a ll of t he French ent ries. In t he fina l t a st ing

Cabe r net Sa u v i gno n, a nd i n a ug ur a t e d t h e b i a n n ua l

o f 2 0 06 , w hich a s m u ch a s a nyt hing d escrib ed t he

Mayaca ma s

new

w i n e s ’ a g ew or t hiness, t he M a ya ca m a s t ied for 3 rd ,

re le ase s o f wi ne s a nd d e s cr i b e d t h e i r r o ug h -h e w n

a p p r o p ria t el y enou g h w it h Heit z M a r t ha ’s Vineya rd ,

life on M o u nt Ve e d e r, w h i ch , a f t e r d e ca d e s o f

a g a i n ou t -p l a cing a l l French ent ries. A ll t a st ing s w ere

viticu ltu r e , ma i nta i ne d a n a i r a n d s p i r i t o f p i o n e e r i n g ,

p e r f o r med b l ind b y som e of t he m ost d ist ing u ished

w ith no e l e c tri c i ty y e t o n t h e m o un t a i n a n d a ve r y

t a s t e r s of t he d a y. M ore t ha n a ny ot her sing le event ,

basic infra s tru c tu re , i nc l u d i n g a g r a vi t y -f l o w w i n e r y

t h e J ud g m ent of P a ris est a b l ished A m erica n w ines a s

de sig n.

b e i n g a m ong t he finest in t he w orl d : it est a b lished

ne ws l e tte r,

w h i ch

a n n o un ce d

A m e r i ca n w ines in t he g lob a l im a g ina t ion.

T he Tayl o rs the n s o l d the p ro p e r t y i n 1 9 6 8 t o R o b e r t and E lin o r Tra v e rs , C a l i fo r n i a n s b o t h , a n d i t w a s t h e

To d a y, t he new st ew a rd s of t his p rop er t y, J a y a nd

Trave rs who ga v e M a y a c a m a s t h e r e p ut a t i o n i t h a s

J o e y S c hot t enst ein a nd C ha rles a nd A li Ba nks, w it h

today. B o b ’s p ri o r a p p re nt i ce s h i p w i t h J o e H e i t z ,

g r e a t r esp ect for t he Ta yl ors a nd t he Tra vers, w il l

as we ll a s hi s s c i e nti fi c b a c k g r o un d a s a p e t r o l e um

w o r k t o b ot h p reser ve a nd revive t he M a ya ca m a s

eng ine e r a t S ta nfo rd Uni v er s i t y, h a d p r e p a r e d h i m

p r o p e r t y a nd it s w ines. The Ba nks a nd Schot t enst eins,

w e ll for hi s ne w c a re e r. H e l o ve d t h e l a n d a n d

a l o n g wit h A nd y Erickson a nd A nnie Fa via -Erickson,

de du ced i ts p o te nti a l , u nt i l t h e n o n l y h i n t e d a t ,

w h o wil l ser ve a s w inem a ker a nd vit icu l t u ra list , a re

for prod u c i ng wi ne s o f g r e a t ch a r a ct e r, d e p t h ,

e x ci t e d a nd honored t o ca rr y on t he l eg a cy t ha t t he

comple xi ty, a nd a ge - wo r thi n e s s , a n d , t o g e t h e r, t h e

Tr a ve r s ha ve crea t ed a t t his rem a rka b le p rop er t y.

you ng c o u p l e fo c u s e d the i r e f f o r t s o n C a b e r n e t Sau vig n o n a nd C ha rd o nna y.

In 1976 , M a y a c a ma s Vi n e y a r d s ’ 1 9 7 1 C a b e r n e t Sau vig n o n wa s s e l e c te d fo r t h e f a m o us “ J ud g m e n t o f P aris” ta s ti ng, whi c h p i tte d a s e l e ct i o n o f t h e f i n e s t Ame rica n wi ne s a ga i ns t a s i m i l a r co l l e ct i o n o f t o p Fre nch g ro wths . M a y a c a mas w a s a l s o i n cl ud e d i n t h e 10-ye ar a nd 3 0 - y e a r re p l a ys o f t h a t l a n d m a r k e ve n t , in 1986 a nd 2 0 0 6 , whi c h co l l e ct i ve l y s o l i d i f i e d t h e tasting ’s s ta te me nt a b o u t th e l e g i t i m a cy o f t h e b e s t

Pg. 29

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A SP E C IA L I N V I TAT ION F OR L ON G - T I M E M AYAC A M A S L OV E R S

Please join us

F O R A S U N R I S E WA L K W I T H B U B B L E S THROUGH THE TERRACED VINES J A C K TAY L O R P L A N T E D I N T H E ‘ 4 0 s A N D A H O T C A M P F I R E B R E A K FA S T O V E R L O O K I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O B AY A F T E R WA R D S

Together we will explore the winery A N D SE L E C T L I B R A RY W I N E S F R OM T H E C E L L A R F OR P U RC HASE

C O M E B E A PA R T O F T H I S F I R S T H A R V E S T A N D T H E N E XT C HA P T E R I N T H E L I F E O F M AYA C A M A S V I N E YA R D S

Thursday, September 19, 2013 FIRST LIGHT UNTIL 10 AM

Space is limited to 40 guests.

Contact Ezra 925.876.5936 / echomak@terroirselections.com to reserve a seat.

Pg. 31

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IN PURSUIT OF BALANCE

Pioneers like Rajat have led the pendulum back towards higher-acid, food-friendly wines; a style more often associated with the old world.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Bil l y Simon s, J oh n M c J un kin

Pg. 33

Pg. 34

S A N TA B A R B A R A C O U N T Y, C A

SANDHI Believ i ng he wo u l d b e c o m e a ch e f , R a j a t Pa r r,

t o s h ow t ha t Sa nt a Ba rb a ra C ou nt y, a nd t he Sa nt a

orig ina l l y fro m K o l k a ta , In d i a , l e f t h o m e a t a g e

R i t a Hil ls in p a r t icu la r, ha d t he a b il it y t o p rod u ce

twe nty - two to a tte nd c o o k i n g s ch o o l a t t h e C ul i n a r y

h i g h q u a l it y w ines in t his st yl e. Ha ving p reviou sl y

Institute o f A me ri c a , H y d e Pa r k , N Y. Th e r e , h e

o w n ed a vineya rd in Sa nt a Ba rb a ra C ou nt y, w hose

stu mbl e d s o me wha t a c c i d e n t a l l y i n t o w i n e . H e w a s

w i n e s received excel lent scores rig ht ou t of t he

immed i a te l y s mi tte n, a nd h i s l o ve o f t h e w i n e s o f

g a t e , C ha rl es sa w t he u nt a p p ed p ot ent ia l of t he

Bu rg und y i n p a r ti c u l a r ha s n e ve r w a ve r e d .

r e g i on, a nd Ra ja t w a s t he p er fect p erson t o g u id e t h e w inem a king .

Today, he i s the wi ne d i r e ct o r o f t h e M i ch a e l M i n a R e stau ra nt G ro u p . Wi th h i s e n cy cl o p e d i c p a l a t e ,

Wo r k ing w it h fru it from b ot h iconic Sa nt a Ba rb a ra

steadfa s t ta s te s , a nd o p in i o n a t e d n a t ur e , R a j a t h a s

C o un t y vineya rd s a nd l esser-know n “u p a nd com ing ”

become a n u ne q u i v o c a l c e l e b r i t y a m o n g s t t h e w i n e

p r o p er t ies, C ha rles, Ra ja t , a nd t heir w inem a ker

cog no s c e nti , wi th o e no p h i l e g r o up i e s w h o f o l l o w

S a s h i M oor m a n (a l so t he w inem a ker of P ied ra sa ssi

him on Twi tte r a nd s wa r m h i m a t e ve r y F o o d & W i n e

a n d St ol p m a n Vina ya rd s), ha ve crea t ed a ra ng e

show.

o f Cha rd onna ys a nd P inot N oirs t ha t exp ress t heir vi s i o n. A long w it h t he cou nt y C ha rd onna y, a w ine

W he n s e tti ng the d i re c ti o n f o r h i s R N 7 4 r e s t a ur a n t s

h e r a l d ed b y p u b lica t ions incl u d ing t he N ew York

in San F ra nc i s c o a nd Se a t t l e , R a j a t m a d e a va s t l y

Ti m e s, Sa nd hi a lso p rod u ces a ra ng e of sing le

misu nd e rs to o d ,

vi n e ya rd w ines t ha t ea ch exp resses t he u niq u e t erroir

wi d e l y

d i s cus s e d ,

and

highly

contro v e rs i a l d e c i s i o n tha t ce m e n t e d h i s i m p o r t a n ce

o f t h at sit e.

in the wi ne wo rl d . H e a n n o un ce d t h a t h i s w i n e l i s t s wou ld o nl y i nc l u d e C ha r d o n n a ys a n d Pi n o t N o i r s

L e a vi ng

a sid e

t he

ja rg on,

t he

cou nt y

b lend

u nde r 14 % a l c o ho l .

A s a r e s ul t , R a j a t b e ca m e t h e

C h a r donna y is a n a b sol u t e crow d -p lea ser p er fect

banne r- b e a re r fo r wha t b e ca m e t h e “ b a l a n ce d w i n e ”

f o r a ny d inner p a r t y, a nd it ’s ver y fu n t o d o a t a st ing

move me nt. I n the 20 0 0 s , Ca l i f o r n i a h a d b e co m e

o f a l l t he sing l e vineya rd s t o com p a re a nd ob ser ve

know n fo r v e r y ri p e , hi gh a l co h o l , “ j a m m y” w i n e s ,

t h e n u a nces p ossib l e w it hin cha rd onna ys a nd p inot

bu t pi o ne e rs l i k e R a j a t ha ve l e d t h e p e n d ul um b a ck

n o i r s a l l from t he sa m e reg ion a nd even t he sa m e

toward s hi ghe r- a c i d , fo od -f r i e n d l y w i n e s ; a s t y l e

ce l l a r.

more o fte n a s s o c i a te d wi t h t h e o l d w o r l d .

Charle s B a nk s a nd R a j a t ’s r e l a t i o n s h i p g o e s b a ck to 199 9 , whe n the y met a t F i f t h F l o o r, t h e S a n Franci s c o re s ta u ra nt wher e R a j a t w a s w o r k i n g , a n d qu ickl y b o nd e d o v e r the i r p a s s i o n f o r w i n e . A l m o s t a decad e l a te r, the two fi na l l y f o un d a n o p p o r t un i t y t o work t o ge the r. C ha rl e s , sh a r i n g R a j a t ’s a p p r e ci a t i o n for ba l a nc e d wi ne s , wa s e a g e r t o t e a m up w i t h h i m

Pg. 35

RAJ’S FARRO & MORREL MUSHROOM RISOTTO (w/ SANFORD & BENEDICT PINOT NOIR 2011) (serves 8)

INGREDIENTS 1 1/4 cup Morel Mushroom (Sauteed) 1 tbs Whole Butter 3/4 cup White Wine 3 Bay leaves 4 tbs Garlic, minced 1 cup Yellow onion, chopped 3 cups Farro (green farro if available) 3 liters Vegetable or Chicken Stock 1/2 tsp Balsamic 2 tsp Mascarpone 2 tsp Parmesan cheese 1 1/2 tbs Thyme & a pinch of: Parsley, chive, dill, lemon zest

Method and Notes: 1. Lightly coat a pan with olive oil, turn heat to medium, add the onion and sautee until soft. Then add garlic and stir till light brown.

2. Add the par-cooked farro to the pan with half the butter and to coat the farro and toast it.

3. Add the white wine, raise to a boil, then simmer until reduced by half.

4. Then add the stock and bay leaves and cook until the stock has reduced and starts to thicken from the starch in the farro.

5. While this is going on, sautee the mushrooms in olive oil until soft and brown, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, chop the herbs.

6. When risotto-like thickness is achieved, remove pan from the heat, remove the bay leaves, and then add the mascarpone, parmesan, lemon and Balsamic.

7. Finish with fresh herbs and sauteed mushrooms.

Pg. 36

Pg. 37

AT A N E AT E R Y

Pg. 38

RY NEAR YOU

Pg. 39

Pg. 40

S O U T H A F R I C A’ S N E W G E N E R AT I O N

Charles, Ali, Annie, and Andy retur ned to South Africa together to deter mine if they could pull of f reinvigorating this well-loved South African brand and recharging the American palate for South African wines.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Bil l y Simon s, An dr ew Sc h on eber g er

Pg. 41

Pg. 42

STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA

MULDERBOSCH

“ W hy M u l d e rb o s c h?” i s a q ue s t i o n C h a r l e s i s o f t e n

Ch a r l es t ha t he’ d l ove t o som ed a y w ork t og et her if

aske d. H i s a ns we r i s s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d : “ Be ca us e

t h e r e w a s ever a n op p or t u nit y.

Sou th A fri c a , a nd M u l d e rb o s ch i n p a r t i cul a r, h a s t h e potenti a l to p ro d u c e the b e s t w h i t e w i n e va l ue s i n

O n l y a few yea rs la t er, t ha t op p or t u nit y m a t eria lized

the w o rl d . ”

when

Terroir

b eg a n

consid ering

t he

p u rcha se

o f M u l d erb osch. C ha rles, A l i, A nnie, a nd A nd y Bu t it’s no t s i mp l y a b o u t va l ue . S o ut h A f r i ca h a s

r e t ur n ed t o Sou t h A frica t og et her t o d et er m ine if

a cent u ri e s - o l d tra d i ti o n o f w i n e m a k i n g , m e a n i n g

t h e y cou ld p u l l of f reinvig ora t ing t his w ell-loved

g enera ti o ns o f p a s s e d d ow n w i s d o m a n d p l e n t y o f

S o ut h A frica n b ra nd a nd recha rg ing t he A m erica n

old vin e s , a nd to d a y the i n d us t r y i s e x p e r i e n ci n g a

p a l a t e for Sou t h A frica n w ines.

renaiss a nc e . Whe n a p a r th e i d e n d e d i n 1 9 9 4 , S o ut h Africa’s l i ne s o f tra d e wi t h t h e r e s t o f t h e w o r l d

Th e

trip

onl y

fu r t her

reopene d , a nd S o u th A fr i ca n s r e g a i n e d h a ve t h e

o p p o r t u nit y t ha t exist ed in Sou t h A frica a nd t he

ability to c o mp e te o n a g l o b a l l e ve l . Th i s r e n e w e d

a m a z ing

competi ti o n ha s , o f c o u rse , ca t a l y z e d a l l o f t h e i r

p us h i n g t he envel op e. A ft er a visit t o A d a m a t Kl ein

indu stri e s , i nc l u d i ng wi ne m a k i n g .

Co n t ant ia , w it h som e b ig t a l king a nd b ig d rea m ing

w inem a kers

convinced t here

w ho

t hem w ere

of

t he

a l rea d y

o ve r bot t l es of w ine, a ll a g reed it w a s w or t h t he W he n C ha rl e s a nd A l i fi r s t vi s i t e d S o ut h A f r i ca i n

e f f o r t t o p u rsu e t he cha lleng e, a nd A d a m w ou ld

2008, the y i mme d i a te l y fe l l i n l o ve w i t h t h e co un t r y

s e r ve a s w inem a ker.

and kne w tha t s o me d a y they w a n t e d t o f i n d a w a y t o g et invo l v e d wi th a wi ne pr o j e ct t h e r e . A s l uck w o ul d

H a vi n g sp ent eig ht yea rs a t one of Sou t h A frica ’s

have it, o ne o f the p i e c e s o f t h e p uz z l e l a n d e d o n

m o s t im p or t a nt w ineries, A d a m ha d d evelop ed a

his win e r y ’s d o o rs te p i n 2 0 0 8 , w h e n Ad a m M a s o n ,

s t r o n g d esire t o t ell Sou t h A frica ’s u niq u e w ine st or y

a bu rge o ni ng S o u th A fri ca n w i n e m a k e r, ca m e t o

t o t h e w orld in a com p el ling w a y. Wit h C ha rl es

Califor ni a to wo rk ha r v e s t a t S cr e a m i n g E a g l e . Th e r e

k e e n to t a ke M u ld erb osch t o t he next level , A d a m

he met C ha rl e s , A l i , A nni e , a n d An d y.

f e l t i t w a s a p er fect p l a ce t o cont inu e t his vision. ( A n d , coincid ent a l ly, M u l d erb osch w a s one of t he

Adam wa s the n the wi ne m a k e r a t K l e i n C o n s t a n t i a ,

f i r s t wines A d a m ha d b een int rod u ced t o, a nd it

a histori c wi ne r y tha t d a t e s b a ck t o 1 6 8 5 a n d i s

h a d b ecom e a b enchm a rk for him , a s it w a s for

famou s fo r i ts Vi n d e C o n s t a n ce – a d e s s e r t w i n e

m a n y ot her Sou t h A frica ns. )

that wa s p o p u l a r i n the ro ya l co ur t s o f E ur o p e i n t h e 18th and 19 th c e ntu ri e s a n d w a s e ve n w r i t t e n a b o ut

In a d d it ion t o b ring ing on A d a m , C ha rl es a nd

by Jan e A u s te n a nd C ha r l e s D i ck e n s . Th o ug h h e

An d y

love d hi s c u rre nt p o s i ti o n, A d a m d i d t e l l A n d y a n d

vi t i cul t u ra l ist w ho w ou l d oversee t he rep la nt ing

a lso

hired

an

a sser t ive,

w ell-resp ect ed

Pg. 43

of the Mul d e rb o s c h v i ne y a rd s a n d b e co m e d e e p l y i nvolve d w i th the fa r me rs fr o m w h o m M ul d e r b o s ch b u ys fru it. B y d e v e l o p i ng s tro n g r e l a t i o n s h i p s w i t h t h e i r te am of ded i c a te d gro we rs , M ul d e r b o s ch i s n o w a b l e to w ork cl o s e l y wi th the m i n t h e i r vi n e ya r d s t o e n s ur e that g rape q u a l i ty a nd s ty l e co n f o r m s t o w i n e m a k i n g re qu ireme nts i n o rd e r to p rod uce t h e M ul d e r b o s ch ’s sig natu re s ty l e o f ra c y, a ro ma t i c w h i t e a n d r o s Ê w i n e s , a s w e ll as the i r c l a s s i c a l l y st y l e d b ut a p p r o a ch a b l e re d blend, F a i thfu l H o u nd .

Afte r u pd a ti ng the wi ne r y a n d i m p l e m e n t i n g b e s t p ractice s gl e a ne d fro m the o t h e r Te r r o i r p r o p e r t i e s , today, Mu l d e rb o s c h i s o n the f o r e f r o n t o f w i n e m a k i n g i n Sou th A fri c a . A nd whi l e the p r i ce s h a ve s t a ye d p ut , the qu ality c o nti nu e s to ri s e a s t h e n e w g e n e r a t i o n o f M u lde rbos c h hi ts i ts s tri d e .

Pg. 44

Pg. 45

Pg. 46

THOSE GREEDY BABOONS

The conditions do not make it easy – the winemaker and all those seeing to the proper ty must contend with aggressive leopards, greedy troops of baboons, enor mous snakes, and regular wildfires.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Bil l y Simon s, Steph an us Rabie

Pg. 47

Pg. 48

TULBAGH, SOUTH AFRICA

FA B L E In 200 9, a we l l - k no wn w i n e cr i t i c p h o n e d Ch a r l e s

d o n o t m a ke it ea sy – t he w inem a ker a nd a l l t hose

to te ll hi m to l o o k i nto t h e F a b l e p r o p e r t y – t h e n

s e e i n g t o t he p rop er t y m u st cont end w it h a g g ressive

called Tu l b a gh M o u nta i n Vi n e y a r d – a s s h e b e l i e ve d

l e o p a rd s, g reed y t roop s of b a b oons t ha t love t o

it coul d o ne d a y b e the S cr e a m i n g E a g l e o f S o ut h

s t e a l g ra p es (a nd w ires, a nd ca r p a r t s, a nd g u t t ers,

Africa . A t tha t p o i nt, Te rr o i r h a d a l r e a d y a cq ui r e d

e t c. ) , enor m ou s sna kes, a nd reg u la r w ild fires— not

Mu lde rb o s c h, b u t C ha rl e s ’ i n t e r e s t i n S o ut h Af r i ca

t o m ent ion t he fa ct t ha t it ’s ou t in t he m id d le of

and a l l i ts p o te nti a l w a s n o t y e t s a t e d . W h i l e

n o w h ere.

Mu lde rb o s c h i s p ri me d t o p r o d uce t h e b e s t w h i t e wine va l u e s i n the wo rl d , Ch a r l e s k n e w S o ut h Af r i ca

But when t he orig ina l ow ners ha d ha d enou g h,

had ma ny mo re d i me ns i o n s t o s h o w.

t h e i r ded ica t ed a nd a d vent u rou s w inem a ker a nd vi t i cul t u ra l ist , a lso a cou p l e, w it h t hree child ren,

Sou th A fri c a ha s a n i nc re d i b l e d i ve r s i t y o f g r o w i n g

w a n t e d t o st a y p u t a nd see t heir vision t hrou g h.

reg ions , ma ny o f whi c h cl o s e l y m i m i c r e g i o n s i n

Ch a r l es seized t he op p or t u nit y hel p t hem d o ju st

France a nd o the r p a r ts o f t h e O l d Wo r l d i n t e r m s

t h a t . The A u st ra lia n w inem a ker, Reb ecca ha d m et

of clim a te a nd s o i l s . A nd w h i l e w i n e g r a p e s h a ve

Pa ul , a Sou t h A frica n, w hen she p icked him u p a s

bee n gro wn i n S o u th A fri ca f o r ce n t ur i e s , t h e w i n e

a h i t chhiker one d a y. A s it t u r ned ou t , t hey w ere

indu str y the re wa s c l o s e d o f f t o t h e r e s t o f t h e w o r l d

h e a d e d t o t he sa m e p l a ce – t he w iner y w here t hey

(and m a ny a d v a nc e s i n v it i cul t ur e ) d ur i n g a p a r t h e i d ,

b o t h w orked , ea ch p reviou sly u na w a re of t he ot her!

me ani ng tha t the i nd u s tr y i n S o ut h Af r i ca i s s t i l l

Th e y q u ickly b eca m e a cou p l e, a nd a ft er a severa l

e ag e rl y s o r ti ng o u t c o nc ep t s l i k e w h i ch g r a p e s a r e

i t i n e r a t e yea rs m a king w ine (a nd b eer) a nd su r fing

best s u i te d to whi c h re gi o n s . As a r e s ul t , t h e r e a r e

a l l o v er t he w orl d , t he cou p l e set t l ed a t Fa b le,

still ma ny p o te nti a l ge ms out t h e r e t h a t a r e e i t h e r n o t

w h e r e t hey w ou ld not onl y m a ke w ine, b u t a l so ra ise

being fa r me d a t a l l , b e i n g f a r m e d q ui t e p o o r l y, o r

a f a m il y, st a r t a b iod yna m ic fa r m inclu d ing sheep ,

attemp ti ng to gro w the wr o n g k i n d o f g r a p e s f o r t h e

ca t t l e , chickens, a nd veg et a b l es, a nd b ra ve t he

are a.

w i l d s a nd rem ot eness of t he reg ion—a life neit her o f t h e m cou l d ha ve ever im a g ined g row ing u p !

Su ch wa s the c a s e wi th t h e F a b l e p r o p e r t y. S e t almost d i re c tl y no r th o f S t e l l e n b o s ch , S o ut h A f r i ca ’s

Af t e r w orking a t su ch est a b lished w ineries a s C u l len

e qu iva l e nt

and

i n M a rg a ret River, L a kes Fol ly in t he Hu nt er Va lley,

popu la ri ty, F a b l e l i e s i n a b e a ut i f ul , r e m o t e va l l e y

a n d C a m p a g nol a in N or t her n It a l y, com ing t o

in the mi d s t o f the ru gg e d W i t z e n b e r g M o un t a i n

f l e d g l i ng Fa b le w a s q u it e a cha ng e for Reb ecca .

rang e , i n a n a re a wi th o n l y a s m a l l h a n d f ul o f

But when C ha rl es a nd A nd y b eca m e invol ved ,

vine ya rd s . F e w ha v e b e e n a d ve n t ur o us e n o ug h t o

t h e y q u ickly u p g ra d ed t echnolog y a nd eq u ip m ent

attemp t ma k i ng wi ne i n t h i s a r e a , b ut t h e f o un d e r s

t o a l l ow Reb ecca t o m a ke t he q u a l it y of w ine she

of Tu lb a gh M o u nta i n Vi neya r d k n e w a w i n n e r w h e n

d r e a m ed of m a king . To red esig n t he w iner y, t hey

they sa w o ne . H o we v e r, t h e co n d i t i o n s i n Tul b a g h

h i r e d Gera rd d e Villiers, a renow ned eng ineer w ho

of

Na p a

in

terms

of

notoriety

Pg. 49

wo rk s e x cl us i ve l y o n w i n e r y a n d d i s t i l l e r y d e s ig n. Gera rd

sp ecia l izes

i n p ro c es s d e s i g n — t h e ca r e f ul o r ch e s t r a t i o n of ea ch st ep t he g ra p es go thro ug h , f r o m t h e m o m e n t t h e y a r r i ve t h r o ug h t o b ot t ling , t a king int o a c c o u nt f a ct o r s s uch a s t e m p e r a t ur e , e x p o s ur e t o oxyg en, t he u se of gra v i ty v e r s us f o r ce – a n d t h e n e w w i n e r y r e f l ect s his a t t ent ion t o d et a il .

To d a y, Pa ul a n d R e b e cca a r e f o cus e d o n i n c rea sing t he su st a ina b ilit y e f fo r ts o n t h e f a r m , i m p r o vi n g t h e q ua l i t y o f l i fe for t heir w orkers (w ho a t mo s t ot h e r f a r m s w o ul d r e ce i ve m e a g e r w a ges a nd not hing else), a nd a c hi e v i n g t h e f ul l p o t e n t i a l f r o m t h e vi n e y a r d s a nd resu l t a nt w ines. The wi ne p or t f o l i o i n cl ud e s a w h i t e b l e n d o f p r i m a rily ol d b u sh vine C henin B l a nc a n d C h a r d o n n a y, a S yr a h a n d M o ur ve dre b lend , a nd a n est a t e Sy ra h. A f t e r p l a n t i n g m a n y va r i e t a l s t o s e e wha t w ou ld t hrive on t he p ro p e r ty, S yr a h h a s b e e n a cl e a r w i n n e r, w h i ch is not ent irel y su rp rising gi v e n tha t t h e s i t e i s ve r y r e m i n i s ce n t o f t h e S ou t her n Rhone in Fra nce in te r ms o f s o i l a n d cl i m a t e .

I f y o u h a ve t h e ch a n ce t o vi s i t t h i s a m a z i n g p l a ce som ed a y-- t o hike thro u gh t h e w o o d s w h e r e t h e b a b o o n s l i ve , t o t a ke a n a ft er noon d ip in the re s e r vo i r t uck e d a m i d s t t h e vi n e s , a n d m a yb e, ju st m a yb e t o sp ot t he ze b ra th a t o cca s i o n a l l y s t r o l l s t h r o ug h , d o n o t let t ha t op p or t u nit y p a ss y o u b y.

B u t u nti l t h e n , y o u ca n s e t a t a b l e i n y o ur b a ck ya rd a nd sip t hese w ines, d a y d re a m i n g t h a t yo u’r e un d e r t h e A f r i ca n s k y.

Pg. 50

Pg. 51

A NOTE FROM REBECCA

I am no t s u re o f the e x a ct d a t e , b ut I t h i n k i t w a s

S o w e ru shed of f t o t he l oca l t ow n, b ou g ht som e

some ti me i n Se p te mb e r 2 0 0 9 . We g o t a s o m e w h a t

w e t w ea t her g ea r - w a t erp roof p a nt s, ja cket s a nd

de s p e ra te c a l l fro m the p r e vi o us o w n e r s o f F a b l e ,

g um b oot s. N ot know ing how b ig or sm a l l ou r g u est s

w ho l i v e d i n Si nga p o re , s a y i n g t h a t w e h a d s o m e

w o ul d b e, w e b ou g ht t he w hole ra ng e t hey ha d .

imp o r ta nt c l i e nts to e nt e r t a i n , a n d t h a t t h e y w o ul d be t he re i n 4 5 mi nu te s !

W h en C ha rl es a nd A li a rrived , w e su g g est ed a w a l k, a nd t o ou r su rp rise t hey ha d no hesit a t ion

T his wa s no t go o d ne w s . We w e r e i n t h e m i d d l e

a g r eeing , a nd b efore w e knew it , t hey su it ed u p

of a hu ge l a b e l i ng ru n t h a t d a y a n d w e r e a l r e a d y

i n t heir w et w ea t her g ea r a nd w ere rea d y t o b ra ve

shor t- s ta f fe d a nd s o thi n g s w e r e a b i t ch a o t i c.

t h e el em ent s. (A l t hou g h C ha rles ha s p ret t y b ig feet , a n d w e d id n’t ha ve t he rig ht size g u m b oot s b u t he

To m a k e ma tte rs wo rs e th e w e a t h e r w a s a b o m i n a b l e ,

s q ueezed int o som et hing a nyw a y! )

it w a s p o u ri ng wi th ra i n , t h e w i n d w a s h o w l i n g a n d it wa s fre e zi ng c o l d . A n d j us t t o t o p i t o f f t h e cl o ud s

We ha d a n a m a zing w a l k a rou nd t he fa r m - t here

w e re ha ngi ng l o w, a nd s o o n e o f o ur b e s t a s s e t s ,

w a s a rea l connect ion b et w een u s, t hem , a nd t he

the mo nu me nta l mo u nta i n s t h a t r i s e up b e h i n d t h e

p l a c e. Event u a lly t he clou d s lift ed ju st enou g h t o

w ine r y, we re c o mp l e te l y h i d d e n .

g e t a g l im p se of t he m ou nt a in. We cont inu ed on d i s cu ssing ou r visions for t he fa r m , p ot ent ia l of t he

Ou r p hi l o s o p hy fo r v i s i t o r s h a d a l w a ys b e e n t h a t

site,

anyo ne who ta k e s the t r o ub l e t o vi s i t us m us t b e

w a s . We t hen ca m e b a ck t o t he cella r w here w e

g iven the b e s t e x p e ri e n ce p o s s i b l e ; b ut h o w w e r e

a l l s a t in front of t he roa ring w ood fire t o t ha w ou t ,

w e go i ng to p u l l thi s on e o f f ? An d w h o w e r e t h e s e

s i p p ing on a g l a ss of red w ine, a nd a s t hey sa y,

pe o p l e a ny wa y, wa nt i n g t o co m e i n s uch b a d

t h e rest is hist or y!

w e a the r?

Bu t the ra i n o u t he re h a s a s p e ci a l q ua l i t y. It enli v e ns the s e ns e s : th e r e i s t h e r o a r i n g s o un d o f the ri v e rs tu mb l i ng o v e r w a t e r f a l l s a s t h e y m a k e the i r wa y d o wn the mo un t a i n , t h e s m e l l o f t h e p i n e tre e s a nd fy nb o s tha t a r e s o a k i n g w e t , a n d t h e n the re i s the ta s te o f the w a t e r. I d o ub t t h a t t h e r e a r e many p l a c e s tha t ha v e m o r e p ur e w a t e r t h a n h e r e .

We j u s t k ne w tha t no m a t t e r w h a t , w e h a d t o t r y and ta k e the s e p e o p l e f o r a w a l k up t h r o ug h t h e far m a nd v i ne y a rd s , a n d e x p e r i e n ce t h e r a i n , t a s t e w at e r fro m the ri v e rs , a n d j us t s o a k i n t h e w h o l e place .

Pg. 52

a nd how a m a zing ly b rea t ht a king t he na t u re

Pg. 53

Pg. 54

GOODBYE FUSION, HELLO FISSION

“So much ‘cutting edge’ design today takes its inspiration from this power ful movement headed by such giants as Lichtenstein, Hockney and Warhol. Pop ar t is still so relevant!”

P H O T O C R E DI T

Rieh an Bakkes, Susie Wil l iams

Pg. 55

Pg. 56

WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA

MARVELOUS In 20 0 8 , a S o u th A fri c a n f o o d a n d w i n e m a g a z i n e

It w a s a m id st t his excit ing a scent t ha t P et er a nd

pu t to ge the r a fe a tu re a b o ut a l o ca l ch e f t ur n i n g up

Ad a m m et , b eca m e friend s, a nd b eg a n la ying t he

at a w i ne ma k e r’s ho u s e a n d p ut t i n g t o g e t h e r d i n n e r

g r o und w ork for t he b u siness t hey w ou ld crea t e

u sing wha te v e r the wi nem a k e r h a d o n h a n d . L i t t l e

t o g e t her.

did th e y k no w tha t the c h e f a n d w i n e m a k e r t h e y h a d se le cte d wo u l d b e c o me f a s t f r i e n d s a n d g o o n t o

In 2 0 0 9 , t hey b eg a n Ya rd st ick, a l a b el focu sed on

cre ate s o me o f the mo s t e x ci t i n g w i n e s co m i n g o ut

h i g h -a lt it u d e P inot N oir a nd C ha rd onna y from ext rem e

of Sou th A fri c a .

vi n e y a rd s a rou nd t he C a p e. A t t ha t t im e m a ny Sou t h Af r i can P inot N oirs w ere rip e a nd hea vily w ood ed .

T he w i ne ma k e r the y c ho se w a s Ad a m M a s o n – n o w

Pe t e r fel t t here w a s a hu g e op ening on his rest a u ra nt

the w i ne ma k e r a t M u l d e r b o s ch – a n d h e a n d ch e f

w i n e l ist s for a l ig ht er, fresher inca r na t ion of t hese

P ete r Te mp e l ho f f hi t i t o f f i m m e d i a t e l y.

t w o cl a ssic va riet ies, a nd so t heir q u est w a s b or n.

P ete r Te mp e l ho f f, a S o u th A f r i ca n , g r e w up t h i n k i n g

Th e Ya rd st ick w ines g enera t ed a lot of a t t ent ion,

he w o u l d go i nto fi na nc e . But a f t e r g e t t i n g a d e g r e e

a n d soon, t he p a ir b eca m e int erest ed in p u rsu ing

in e co no mi c s , he fi na l l y r e a l i z e d h i s t r ue p a s s i o n

a b r oa d er ra ng e of g ra p es a nd st yl es t ha t d id not

w as fo r fo o d , a nd S H A ZA M ! H e ’d f o un d h i s ca l l i n g .

f i t i n t he C ha rd onna y a nd P inot -onl y Ya rd st ick l ine;

T he re s t re a d s l i k e a fa i r y t a l e .

i n cl ud ing a Syra h-b a sed b l end a nd a cool -clim a t e Ca b er net Sa u vig non b l end .

T hou gh he go t a l a te s ta r t , Pe t e r q ui ck l y ca t a p ul t e d u pwa rd s thro u gh the Lo n d o n f o o d s ce n e , w h e r e h e

“ We d ecid ed t ha t ‘ M a r velou s’ b est enca p su la t ed t he

be g an hi s c a re e r wi th M a r co Pi e r r e W h i t e a f t e r

s p i r i t of w ha t w e w ere t r ying t o a chieve: It m a kes a

atte nd i ng the C u l i na r y I n s t i t ut e i n S o ut h A f r i ca a n d

s l i g h t ly irreverent p oke a t t he t ra d it iona l w ine l a b el

the n the C u l i na r y I ns ti tu te o f Am e r i ca . Af t e r w o r k i n g

( a f t e r a l l, w ine ca n b e so st u f fy a nd excl u sive), ” sa id

u nder two M i c he l i n s ta r r e d ch e f s , h e w a s n a m e d

Ad a m . “We w a nt ed p eop le t o feel excit ed a b ou t

E xe cu ti v e C he f a t A u to m a t i n M a y f a i r. S o o n a f t e r,

d r i n k i ng ou r w ines, not int im id a t ed . We liked t he

Au toma t wa s na me d “ To p Ta b l e i n L o n d o n ” i n 2 0 0 5 ,

t o n g ue-in-cheek reference t o t he com ic b ook era

and w a s no mi na te d fo r “ Re s t a ur a n t o f t h e Ye a r 2 0 0 5 ”

a n d t he p op a r t ist s of t he 1 9 5 0 ’s onw a rd s. Why?

by H a rp e rs a nd the Qu e e n ’s R e s t a ur a n t Aw a r d s .

Be ca use so m u ch ‘ cu t t ing ed g e’ d esig n t od a y t a kes

In 20 0 6 , he re tu r ne d to S o ut h Af r i ca , w h e r e w e n t

i t s i n sp ira t ion from t his p ow er fu l m ovem ent hea d ed

on to re c e i v e a nu mb e r o f p r e s t i g i o us a w a r d s a s

b y s uch g ia nt s a s L icht enst ein, Hockney a nd Wa rhol .

the Ex e c u ti v e C he f a t th e r e s t a ur a n t a t t h e G r a n d

Po p ar t is st il l so releva nt ! ”

P rove nc e Wi ne Es ta te . T h e n , i n 2 0 0 8 , h e b e ca m e a R elais & C ha te a u G ra nd Ch e f a s t h e E x e cut i ve C h e f

Th e t one of t he b ra nd is l ig ht -hea r t ed , t he q u a l it y

of a co l l e c ti o n o f thre e R e l a i s & Ch a t e a u p r o p e r t i e s ,

o f t h e p rint ing , w hich sp ea ks of t yp e-set t ing in it s

w here he ha s wo n a d o z e n m o r e a cco l a d e s a n d

o r i g i n a l for m , u sing sp a cing , font size a nd let t er

stars, i nc l u d i ng B e s t R e s t a ur a n t i n S o ut h Af r i ca i n

p l a cem ent t o com m u nica t e a feeling , reflect s t he

2011 .

Pg. 57

s e ri o u s l o ve o f cr a f t s m a n s h i p t h a t a w i n e m a k er a nd a chef sha re a nd wa nte d t o co n ve y i n t h e i r p r o d uct .

Jo i ni ng M ul d e r b o s ch w a s i n s t r um e n t a l i n a l l o w ing A d a m t o scou r t he v i ne y a r d s a r o un d t h e C a p e t o f i n d i n t r i g ui n g , u niq u e a nd sp ecia l v i ne y a r d p o ck e t s w i t h w h i ch t o cr a f t t h e s e w i nes, so t ha t d esp it e t heir s l i ghtl y p l a y f ul p r e s e n t a t i o n , t h e w i n e q ua l i t y a lw a ys b ow l s p eop le over.

T ha t’s w h e n S H A Z A M !, K A BO O M ! a n d K A-POW! rea l ly ha p p en‌.

Wi th th e co m b i n a t i o n o f p o p -a r t y, un f us s y l a b el s, food -friend ly b l end s, a nd re a s o n a b l e p r i ce s t h e y h a d h i t a p e r f e ct t rifect a . By 2 0 1 2 , a ll t he c o o l e s t C a p e To w n r e s t a ur a n t s w e r e ca r r y i n g the w ines, a nd A m erica n wi ne s l e ut h s h a d ca ug h t w i n d o f t h e b r a n d and w ere a sking w hen it wo u l d b e a va i l a b l e s t a t e s i d e . Th e f i r s t s h i pm ent s a rrived in sp ring 20 1 3 a n d a r e n o w a va i l a b l e o n l i n e a n d i n s el ect w ine shop s.

Pg. 58

Pg. 59

ADAM’S CRUNCH THAI SALAD WITH BEEF CARPACCIO (Serves 6-8)

For the Beef: 3.5lb fillet of beef 1 heaped tablespoon of coriander seeds 1 handful of fresh rosemary, finely chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper light sprinkling of dried oregano Pound the coriander seeds in a mortar and pestle, then mix in rosemary, salt, pepper and oregano and sprinkle on to a board. Roll and press fillet into the mixture, ensuring the mixtures adheres to the fillet’s surface. Sear on a very hot ridged skillet or barbecue grill until brown and lightly crisped on all sides.

Searing time will depend how thick your fillet is and how pink you want it in the middle. When desired doneness is achieved, remove from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes before slicing thinly.

To Top the Beef: 1 handful of very finely sliced fresh ginger 2-3 fresh green chillies, deseeded and finely sliced 1 good handful of radishes finely sliced 1 small handful of fresh cilantro, leaves picked, stalks finely sliced lengthwise sesame seed oil soy sauce juice of 2 limes Gather the ginger slices and cut finely across to form thin matchsticks. Flick randomly over the beef with the chillies, radishes and coriander. Drizzle with a very small amount of sesame seed oil, some soy sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice ensuring each slice of meat gets a good dousing.

Pg. 60

For the Salad: Serve the beef with the Thai Salad, which is made from any combination of the following ingredients: Baby spinach, arugula, savoy or chinese cabbage, whole sugar snap peas, beansprouts, finely sliced red peppers, deseeded and finely sliced red or green chillies, cilantro leaves, sliced spring onions, peeled, gutted and sliced cucumbers.

Finally, dress your salad with the following dressing: 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce brown sugar to taste ( a good pinch should be sufficient) 1/2 clove of finely sliced garlic 1 fresh red chilli deseeded and finely sliced large handful of fresh cilantro and basil, chopped.

Finally, sprinkle over the salad some lightly roasted cashew or sesame seeds, and pair with KA-POW! as the combination of exotic spicy and floral aromas combine so well with the fragrant Thai ingredients, and there is plenty of umami on the palate to handle the beef...

Bon Apetit!

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Pg. 62

BURGUNDY FROM THE BIRDS’ EYE

He can appreciate their craftsmanship the way few can, the way a true craftsman longs to be appreciated, regardless of the prestige their name carries.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Bil l y Simon s

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Pg. 64

B U R G U N D Y, F R A N C E

M A I S O N L’ O R E E

Traveling wi th R a j a t thro u gh t h e ce l l a r s o f F r a n ce o n o n e o f h i s f r eq u ent t rip s there prov i d e s p ro o f tha t he h a s f o un d h i s t r ue ca l l i n g i n l i f e . N o t onl y d oes he love the p ro c e s s o f v i s i ti n g t h e w i n e m a k e r s a n d t a s t i n g t h r o ug h t heir la t est vintag e s , b u t the wi ne ma k e r s cl e a r l y a l s o e n j o y t a s t i n g h i m t h rou g h t heir wine s. He go e s a b o u t the w h o l e t h i n g w i t h a s e r i o us n e s s o f p urp ose a nd focu s tha t ma k e s i t c l e a r wh y t h e y l o ve t o h o s t h i m . H e i s t h e r e t o t a st e, a nd he can re me mb e r hi s e v e r y t h o ug h t a b o ut e ve r y vi n t a g e t h e y h a ve p reviou sl y ser ve d h i m, a nd fo r tha t a n d o t h e r r e a s o n s , t h e y r e s p e ct h i s o p i n i on. He ca n appre cia te the i r c ra fts ma nsh i p t h e w a y f e w ca n , t h e w a y a t r ue cra ft sm a n long s to b e a p p re c i a te d , reg a r d l e s s o f t h e p r e s t i g e t h e i r n a m e ca r ries.

It is this re p u ta ti o n tha t a l l ow e d R a j a t a cce s s t o s o m e o f t h e b e s t vi neya rd s in Bu rg u nd y fro m whi c h he c oul d p r o d uce h i s o w n l a b e l — a n o p p or t u nit y few from ou ts i d e B u rgu nd y a re g i ve n . A n d t h a t i s w h a t m a k e s M a i s o n L’ O ree su ch a compe l l i ng p ro j e c t. F o r A m e r i ca n s , Bur g un d i a n w i n e s a r e o f t e n a n enig m a – w e know we a re s u p p o s e d t o l i k e t h e m , b ut t h e l a b e l s a r e o f t e n confu sing , and w e c e r ta i nl y d o n’t k no w i f t h e y a r e t r ul y w o r t h t h e h i g h p r i ce s t hey oft en comman d .

W ith Ma i s o n L’ Ore e , C ha r l e s a n d R a j a t s a w a n o p p o r t un i t y t o show ca se Bu rg u nd y, wi th R a j a t s e r v i n g a s cur a t o r, s e l e ct i n g f r ui t f r o m his fa vorit e vine yard s a nd o v e rs e e i ng i t s t r e a t m e n t i n t h e ce l l a r. Th e r a n g e i n clu d es over twe nty d i f fe re nt wi ne s , wi t h s o m e t h i n g e ve r y o n e , f r o m a Bur g und y novice looking to d i p a to e i nto thi s f a m o us r e g i o n , t o a Bur g un d y d e vo t ee ea g er t o compare s i ngl e v i ne y a rd s el e ct i o n s s i d e b y s i d e .

Pg. 65

Pg. 66

A HANGOVER WITH A HALO

Millions of dollars a year are given to charity via wine auctions across the countr y. But, millions more could be.

P H O T O C R E DI T

Beal l + T h omas P h otogr aph er s, An dr ew Sc h on eberger, C ynthi a Warren

Pg. 67

Pg. 68

WORLDWIDE

We all s ha re a d mi ra ti o n f o r t h e g r e a t a r t i s t s a n d

s ys t e m t ha t a llow ed t he exp er t s in a fiel d t o sha re

de sig ne rs l i k e P i c a s s o , C ha n e l , a n d F e r r a r i . S o m e o f

t h e i r a b ilit ies w it h a m u ch l a rg er a u d ience.

u s mig h t e v e n ha v e p i c tu re s o f o ur f a vo r i t e o b j e ct s o f

Th i s w a s p a r t of t he insp ira t ion for C u lt iva t e.

ar t and d e s i gn p i nne d o n a b ul l e t i n b o a r d t o s e r ve

t o s t a r t ing C u lt iva t e, w e ha d b een in t he “cou t u re”

as inspi ra ti o n i n o u r l i v e s . Be a ut y a n d cr a f t s m a n s h i p

s e ct o r of t he w ine ind u st r y. L ike fa shion hou ses

inspires u s , a nd y e t o fte n, i t e m s l i k e a F e r r a r i o r a

s uch a s M issoni t ha t p ou r m et icu l ou s a t t ent ion int o

Chanel s u i t j u s t re ma i n “ i ns p i r a t i o n ” – o ut s i d e o f o ur

t h e i r p rod u ct s, l ike ha nd st it ching t heir g a r m ent s, a t

g rasp.

S cr e a m ing Ea g l e, ha nd d e-st em m ing w a s d e rig u eu r,

P rior

a n d n o cost w a s ever sp a red . Yet Ta rg et m a na g ed t o As a co ns u me r, I c o u l d n’t s t o p t h i n k i n g a b o ut w h a t

m a i n t a i n t he M issoni l ook t ha t ever yone loves w hile

Targ e t ha s d o ne fo r the co n s um e r e x p e r i e n ce o ve r

p r o d uc ing it a t a ccessib l e p rice p oint s. So how cou l d

the last d e c a d e . T he y to o k t h e w o r l d o f f i n e d e s i g n

w e t a k e t he p a ssion a nd know -how b ehind w ines

and brou ght i t wi thi n re a c h .

l i k e S cr ea m ing Ea g le a nd crea t e w ines a t Ta rg et -like p r i ce s ?

From 19 6 2 to a ro u nd 2 0 0 0 , t h e y h a d s p e n t t h e i r proverb i a l 1 0 , 00 0 ho u rs l e a r n i n g h o w t o b e a b i g

In o r d er t o p rod u ce t ru e w ines t ha t w e a re p rou d t o

box re ta i l e r. T he n the l i gh t b ul b w e n t o n f o r t h e m ,

p ut o ur na m es on, w e ha d t o crea t e a new p a t h t o

and it ha s s ta y e d o n e v e r s i n ce . Th e y d e ci d e d t o

m a r k e t . Ra t her t ha n ow ning a vineya rd t o p rod u ce

ble nd a r t a nd b u s i ne s s .

Th e y t o o k t h e i r 1 0 , 0 0 0

f r ui t f or C u l t iva t e’s w ines, w e ha ve ou r g eniu s

hou rs s p e nt ga i ni ng e x p e r t i s e a n d a d d e d i n t h e a r t

w i n e m aker, N a t G u nt er, sou rce t he b est ju ice a t t he

by par t ne ri ng wi th re no wn e d d e s i g n e r s . “ C a p s ul e

b e s t valu e from a rou nd t he w orl d . He t ra vels t o l ong -

collecti o ns ” we re b o r n. F ra n k G e h r y d e s i g n e d o n e ,

t i m e f a m ily-ow ned fa r m s in A rg ent ina , C hile, a nd

Missoni d i d o ne , P hi l l i p Li m , Pr a b a l G ur un g , M i ch a e l

It a l y t o t a st e a nd b lend ou r w ines.

Graves — the l i s t i s l o ng a n d g r o w i n g .

U n l i k e t he b ig b ra nd s, w e d o not a d d a ny im p u rit ies Targ e t’s k no wl e d ge o f ho w t o p r o d uce a t e ve r y d a y

t o o ur w ines. Who knew you cou ld ? St ra ng e a s it

price s c o mb i ne d wi th the s e a r t i s t s ’ a b i l i t y t o cr e a t e

s e e m s , t he FDA onl y m a nd a t es t ha t t he p ercent a g e

be au tiful thi ngs ma d e a l l of us h a p p y. It w a s a w i n -

o f a l cohol a nd t he reg ion of orig in b e d iscl osed

w in-w in : fo r the c o ns u me rs , f o r Ta r g e t , a n d f o r t h e

o n t h e b ot t l e— not t he ing red ient s! “Ing red ient s?”

de sig ne rs . Wha t a gi ft to t h e w o r l d t o d e vi s e a

y o u a s k. We d id t oo!

We ha d never hea rd of

Pg. 69

s uch a t hing . Bu t in ord er t o crea t e t he m ou t h feel, d eep colors, oa ky, b u t t er y f l a vors, a nd consist ency of fl a vor t ha t b i g b ra nd s w a nt , t hey sim p ly a d d d ye a n d u np ronou ncea b l e ing red ient s t ha t t h eir consu m er w il l never know a b ou t .

We sa id “no! ” t o t ha t .

There

w ere

a

few

ot her

A m erica n

com p a nies t ha t w e chose t o em u la t e a s w e b u il t C u l t iva t e. Ben & J err y’s, The

Bod y

Shop ,

Whole

Food s,

a nd

Pat a g onia w ere chief a m ong t hem . Ea ch o f t hese com p a nies ha d a p rod u ct t hey w ere p a ssiona t e a b ou t a nd felt ca l led t o p r od u ce, a nd , like u s, ea ch com m it t ed t o b u ild a cu l t u re a nd a com p a ny t ha t h ad t heir va lu es a t t he core. Va l u es first , s uccess second . We l oved t ha t .

Beca u se

C u l t iva t e

d oes

not

ha ve

i n v est ors, C ha rles a nd I w ere free t o e x p erim ent

w it h

a

t ot a lly

un u su a l b u siness m od el .

new

a nd

In t he yea rs

l e a d ing u p t o C u l t iva t e, one of t he t hing s w e ha d b een m ost a m a zed b y w a s t he p ow er of w ine in p hil a nt hrop y.

The

N a p les Wint er Wine Fest iva l w a s one o f ou r fa vorit e w eekend s of t he yea r. It w a s here t ha t w e sa w first ha nd how i n c red ib l y g enerou s p eop l e rea lly a re.

M il lions of d olla rs a yea r a re g iven to

cha rit y

t h e cou nt r y.

Pg. 70

via

w ine

a u ct ions

a cross

Bu t , m il lions m ore cou ld

b e . Und e r tho s e te n t s w e s a w a b i g op p o r tu ni ty.

Five

h un d r e d

people

a tte nd e d . F i fty p e o p l e b o ug h t l o t s .

But

the b u zz a nd j o y tha t f i l l e d t h e t e n t t h a t d a y wa s s ha re d b y a l l w h o a t t e n d e d , no t j u s t the b i d d e rs . A n d , e ve r y o n e t h e r e wo u l d ha v e l o v e d t h a t f e e l i n g t o l a s t a l l y e a r.

Whe n y o u gi v e , y o u f e e l g o o d . W h e n yo u d ri nk wi ne wi th f r i e n d s , yo u f e e l go o d . I t wa s the n w e k n e w w e n e e d e d to ma k e wi ne s to fi ll up t h e o t h e r 3 6 4 d a y s a y e a r a nd k e ep t h e g i vi n g g o i n g !

A nd s o , o u r v e r y o wn ca p s ul e co l l e ct i o n , C u l ti v a te wa s b o r n. To k e e p t h e g i vi n g go i ng a l l y e a r, C u l t i va t e co m m i t t e d t o gi v i ng te n p e rc e nt o f i t s r e ve n ue b a ck to the wo rl d thro u g h g r a n t s t o n o n p ro fi ts . T he s e wi ne s a r e n o t m e a n t t o b e co l l e c te d o r c e l l a re d . Th e y a r e m e a n t to b e s ha re d ! A t b oo k cl ub , a t b un k o , a t y o u r C hri s tma s p a r t y, a t t h e b e a ch .

In o u r v e r y fi rs t y e a r, w e t o uch e d f o r t y fiv e c o mmu ni ti e s a c r o s s t h e g l o b e w i t h gra nts to ta l i ng o v e r $ 4 5 0 , 0 0 0 !

S o me ni ghts i t j u s t f e e l s g o o d t o d r i n k a n e xtra gl a s s wi th y o ur f r i e n d s . N o w, b e c a u s e o f C u l ti v a te , yo ur h a n g o ve r j us t mi ght c o me wi th a h a l o ! Th a n k y o u f o r joi ni ng u s i n c u l ti v a t i n g l i f e a n d h o p e a ro u nd the wo rl d b y s h a r i n g w i n e w i t h fr i e nd s a nd fa mi l y !

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TERROIR’S CALIFORNIA HOME

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E ve r ythi ng ha p p e ns fo r a re a s o n . N o t h i n g h a p p e n s b y

l i k e s o, im m ed ia t ely d rink from t his cu p , ” a nd so

chance o r b y me a ns o f l u c k . Il l n e s s , i n j ur y, l o ve , l o s t

o n ) . A t som e p oint Em il y ha d t o int erject : “Tha t ’s

moment s o f tru e gre a tne s s , a n d e ve n s h e e r s t up i d i t y

m y h usb a nd Rob b ie’s rest a u ra nt ! He crea t ed a ll of

all occur to te s t the l i mi ts of y o ur s o ul . W i t h o ut t h e s e

t h e f o od . Tha t w a s his concep t ! ”

small tes ts , wha te v e r the y m a y b e , l i f e w o ul d b e

i n t i m e, ever yt hing p ret t y m u ch b eg a n t o fa ll in t o

like a s mo o thl y p a v e d , s t r a i g h t , f l a t r o a d w a y t o

p l a ce . The Ba nks + The Wilson’s + M a t t ei’s Ta ver n.

nowhere . I t wo u l d b e s a fe a n d co m f o r t a b l e , b ut d ul l

In r e t r osp ect , Em il y a nd I felt ra t her b lessed .

From t ha t p oint

and u tterl y p o i ntl e s s . A s a c h e f , I k n o w t h i s t o o w e l l .

I w o ul d b e sp ea king t he t ru t h t o sa y t ha t C ha rles a nd T he n su d d e nl y, p e o p l e c o m e i n t o yo ur l i f e a n d y o u

Al i co ul d cer t a inl y a nnex a ny l ike-m ind ed C hef from

know ri ght a wa y tha t the y w e r e m e a n t t o b e t h e r e ,

s o m e n onp a reil kit chen t o sha re t heir vision. This is

to se r ve s o me s o r t o f p u rp o s e . Th e y m a y t e a ch yo u

S a n t a B a rb a ra w ine cou nt r y a ft er a l l: a nea r-fla w l ess

a le sson, o r he l p y o u fi gu re o ut w h o yo u a r e o r w h o

cl i m a t e, p rist ine p rod u ct , P a cific O cea n, Sa nt a Ynez

you wi s h to b e c o me . Yo u n e ve r k n o w w h o t h e s e

M o un t ains, a nd a ll w it hin ea rshot of a ny p l a ce you

pe ople wi l l b e : a re l a ti v e , n e i g h b o r, l o n g -l o s t f r i e n d ,

w i s h t o b e in C a lifor nia . Bu t t he fa ct t ha t C ha rl es a nd

or a comp l e te s tra nge r.

I b o t h b el ieve p hilosop hica lly t ha t t he b ea u t y a nd g r a ce a p er fect cheeseb u rg er is ind ist ing u isha b le t o

One g l o o my s p ri ng a fte r n o o n , C h a r l e s a n d Al i

t h a t o f a silken-b u t t er y t orchon of foie g ra s m a y ha ve

Banks a rri v e d a t o ne o f o ur N a s h vi l l e r e s t a ur a n t s

s e a l e d t he d ea l .

to prom o te the i r C u l ti v a te w i n e s . E a r l y o n , I w a s introdu ce d to C ha rl e s a nd Al i b y a m ut ua l f r i e n d .

L i k e w i s e, Em ily a nd I w ere a t a p oint in ou r ow n l ives

As the ni ght p ro gre s s e d w i t h p a i r i n g s o f J a p a n e s e -

w h e r e nou rishm ent ou t w eig hed t he a va nt -g a rd e. Bot h

inspired d i s he s a nd C u l ti v a t e w i n e s , i t a p p e a r e d t o

Ch a r l e s, A li, Em ily a nd m ysel f envisioned crea t ing a n

be a fa i rl y s ta nd a rd e v e nt f o r N a s h vi l l e . A d e ce n t

a t m o s p here t ha t invit ed g u est s t o l ing er, a g a t hering

tu r nou t a nd the fo o d c a me o ut w i t h t h e p a i r i n g s i n a

p l a ce of sor t s, t ha t ea ch g u est w ou l d soon ca l l t heir

time ly m a nne r.

o w n . N o p ret ent ion. N o p om p . A n ext ension of ou r h o m e s w here w e a l l enjoy sha ring “t he g ift ” of food

Like mo s t e v e nts o f thi s n a t ur e , e ve r yo n e w a s

a n d w i ne.

talking , no t re a l l y p a y i ng a t t e n t i o n t o t h e g e n t l e m a n speaking a b o u t the wi nes . L e a n i n g a g a i n s t t h e

M a t t e i ’s Ta ver n is in fa ct a d iscover y a nd a n

bar, acro s s fro m a b o ttl e o f D o ub l e Bl i n d , Ch a r l e s

i n t e r p r et a t ion of Sa nt a Ba rb a ra cu isine a nd sp irit .

pronou nc e d the s e c o nd - c o m i n g o f a h i s t o r i c L o s

I d e f i n e ou r d irect ion a s a nod t o t he hist or y of t he

Olivos, C a l i fo r ni a re s ta u ra n t . H e s p o k e o f a l i f e s t y l e

r e s t a ur a nt a nd t he a rea , a nd a w ink t o t he fu t u re a nd

and a h o s p i ta l i ty - re l a te d i d e a ( o r t w e n t y-t h r e e ) . As I

t h e s um of it s p ossib ilit ies. The m enu here exp loit s

look ba c k a nd re fl e c t o n th a t e ve n i n g : C h a r l e s , A l i ,

o n l y t h e b est of t he l oca l p rod u ct . Techniq u e is only

and Ma tte i ’s Ta v e r n we re t h a t p e r s o n . A l l o f l i f e ’s

us e d t o enha nce t he ing red ient , not a lt er.

little te s ts s u d d e nl y ha d m e a n i n g a n d p ur p o s e . It w as ma gne ti c !

As t h e sea sons cha ng e in t he va l ley, su b seq u ent ly t h e m e n u s a nd t he insp ira t ions cha ng e a s w ell. The

At one p o i nt d u ri ng the e v en i n g o f o ur e ve n t , A l i w a s

b e e f h ere a t M a t t ei’s is verit a b ly a nd consciou sly

speaking wi th my wi fe Emi l y w h e n s h e m e n t i o n e d a

s o ur ce d from ju st u p t he roa d , a nd for t ha t m a t t er, so

ne w re s ta u ra nt tha t s he l o ve d i n As p e n . It e m b o d i e d

i s o ur p l a t e w a re. From st a g -ha nd led st ea k knives,

the cha ra c te ri s ti c s o f wha t h e r a n d Ch a r l e s e n j o y

t o h a n d-ca r ved w ood en p l a t t ers , M a t t ei’s Ta ver n

in a res ta u ra nt: fre s h, i nn o va t i n g , e n g a g i n g , a n d

ce l e b r at es ever yt hing t ha t is Sa nt a Ba rb a ra C ou nt y.

w itty. T he c u i s i ne wa s s i m p l e , y e t m o ut h w a t e r i n g .

Af t e r a l l, a nd a t t he ver y lea st , w e ow e t ha t t o t he

A menu d e l i v e ri ng i nhe re n t f l a vo r s t h a t y o u w a k e

f a m i l i e s a nd g u est s t ha t d ine w it h u s, t he loca ls, a nd

u p cravi ng the ne x t mo r ni n g ( n o t w o n d e r i n g w h e r e

e ve n o u rsel ves.

you ju s t s p e nt 5 - ho u rs o f y o ur l i f e l e d b y a w a i t e r instru cti ng y o u : “ the c he f w o ul d f i r s t l i k e yo u t o d r a g the lango u s ti ne a c ro s s thi s , t h e n i n h a l e t h e va p o r

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We h o p e y o u e n jo y e d t h e st o r ie s in t h is f ir s t is s u e o f R a c o n teu r.

To r ec e ive f u t u r e issu e s o f Ra c o n t e u r, st a y i n th e l o o p a b o u t fu tu r e Te r r o ir h a p p e n in g s a r o u n d t h e c o u n t r y, o r p u t to geth er a c a s e of w in e f o r y o u r n e xt sp e c ia l o c c a sio n , si mp l y c a l l Ez r a a t th e num b e r a b o ve . H e kn o w s e ve r y t h in g t h e r e is to k n o w a b o u t a l l o f t h e se w in e s a n d w ill t a ke g r e a t c a r e o f yo u .

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THANK YOU

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