LEONARD, issue 99, August-September 2022

Page 14

— AUCTIONS —

TIMEPIECES

Why Panerai? Next Fine Jewels & Timepieces Auction Mon 24 Oct, 6pm MELBOURNE

The Panerai wristwatch has always struck me as an impressive

the perspex crystal, in 1938 they introduced their massive

piece of horological machinery. Let’s delve a little deeper and

luminous sandwich dials, in 1940 came the integrated lugs

explore what makes these watches so distinctly wrist-worthy.

with spring bars as well as a movement with an 8-day power

The popularity of the Panerai watch can be traced back to the role they played in the Navy. Watchmaker Giovanni

BELOW: Giovanni Panerai outside his

watch store / Alamy ABOVE: Panerai Luminor PAM00372

a Stainless Steel Wristwatch With 3-day Power Reserve NOO29/3500 Circa 2011 Sold for $7,500

brought in their signature lever-activated crown lock.

Panerai (1825-1897) founded Officine Panerai in 1860. In the

So unfalteringly accurate and resilient were Panerai watches,

following years, Panerai’s grandson Guido Panerai (1873-

that during the Second World War, the Officine Panerai

1934) broadened the business to include the production

productions were not only standard issue tools for military

of mechanical engineering and high precision scientific

personnel of the Italian Navy frogmen but for the German

instruments.

Kriegsmarine as well. In the 1970s, Panerai supplied similar

Further innovations and developments followed, and in 1916,

instruments to the Egyptian Navy.

Panerai filed the patent for Radiomir, a radium-based powder

With their larger-than-life aesthetic matched equally by

that gave luminosity to the dials of sighting instruments and

their fascinating and important place in military history,

devices, which proved invaluable during military operations.

Panerai today retains all the immediately recognisable

Officine Panerai later changed this material to Luminor, which

features – the large crowns, minimalist style of dials, and large

had the same qualities as Radiomir but was not as dangerous

cases. Panerai’s distinctive characteristics were borne out

as the original radioactive material.

of naval necessity, yet their watches command a presence

Panerai was highly innovative in a relatively short period of time and many of the distinct features developed in the company’s early history are recognisable in some form or another in their models today. In 1936, they developed

12 | leonardjoel.com.au

reserve to reduce wear on crown seals, and in 1950 they

and significance today, just as they have throughout their captivating and complicated history. PATRICIA KONTOS / Senior Jewels & Timepieces Specialist


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