Adventure Mag Sneak Peak by Hamish Lamb

Belaying Lynn Hill on “Lost in Translation” at the Great Arc

16//WHERE

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#171

Petzl Roctrip A

story and photos Mayan Smith-GoBat and Beau Kahler

fter the tranquil beauty of being suspended a thousand meters off the ground on the perfect granite of El Capitan (Yosemite Valley), China was a major shock in many ways... Grey and humid, with people and rubbish everywhere, not to mention the difference in climbing style! I left Yosemite Valley in a hectic rush - Three people and far too much gear crammed into my friends car at four am headed for SF Airport. This was the first leg of an epic trip to Getu Valley, China. Finally, after more than two full days of travel, I found myself in a small airport in the Guizhuo Provence of China... The only english speaking, white person in sea of Chinese. After wandering around in a daze for a while, I was glad to locate a bunch of misfit climbers huddled in a corner, waiting to be crammed into mini vans or busses for the five hour bus ride to Getu Valley. Immediately after leaving the airport these buses were immersed in roaring traffic. Weaving and winding at crazy speeds, with the horn blaring - Permanent use of the horn was the only Chinese road rule I was able to distinguish! Further away from the city, www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 17

ABOVE L TO R: Mayan with the Chinese dancers at Opening Ceremony | Mayan climbing Ki Di Buzz, 29 at Banyan Cave | One of the classic, timeless Chinese women.| FACING PAGE: Mayan climbing the crux of Ki Di Buzz, 29 at Banyan Cave. the quantity of traffic decreased, yet, the driving became even more frightening. The roads became gradually smaller and more winding, and the road usage more diverse - There were large trucks and busses, cars, mopeds (with never less than three people on them), horse drawn carts, water buffalo and of course, multitudes of chickens, dogs, cows and pedestrians. Our destination, the Getu Valley, is located in the Guizhuo Provence of China. This entire region, though apparently the poorest in China, is covered in an unfathomable amount of incredible limestone cliffs, caves and arches, most of which are still entirely untouched. It is relatively unknown, mecca for sport climbing. Over the last couple of years Petzl has funded many trips to the Getu Valley, to equip routes for the 2011 Petzl Roctrip. Now, even though only a few of the most accessible cliffs have been developed, the Getu Valley is already a totally amazing climbing destination. The 2011 Petzl Roctrip, which turned out to be the largest ever (with almost five-hundred participants), created a striking contrast to its surroundings. Getu village consists of one street, it is the heart of the town. This is where everything happens, from washing, cooking and eating, to children playing and partying at night - there were even bonfires in the middle of the street! Surrounding the village were rice fields, vegetable gardens, bamboo plantations and amazing limestone cliffs. Yet, during the Roctrip this sleepy village suddenly turned into a hive of activity. Filled with an impressive gathering of the worlds best climbers

from all over the globe. Thanks to Spelean and Five Ten, there was even an Australasian presence! The three days of the actual Roctrip were intense, the “one street village” was overrun by people and an electric, high-energy atmosphere! Everyday was action packed - There were psyched climbers of every level pushing their limits at every crag and photographers everywhere. The climbing was very diverse, with half a dozen different crags dotted around the village. Each one with its own distinctly different feel and style of climbing. The great arch was grand and spectacular - Located high above the river, it had everything from incredible multi-pitch routes through crazily steep, three-dimensional forests of stalactites; to twenty meter test-pieces which looked easy from the ground, but actually had the slickest holds ever! Climbing at the Great Arch really was a really unique, yet often a very frustrating experience, and lineups for climbs were unavoidable. However, there were truly impressive climbers to watch and other more remote crags to escape to down the valley a little further. One of the most popular was Banyangs cave, which offered a more common style climbing, more like what one might find in France or Spain - Slightly less steep, long routes covered in crimpers and small drooping stalactites. The most impressive feats I witnessed were: Dave Graham climbing all the hardest routes at Banyan, within half an hour (consisting of three routes over grade 29 - all first go), before sprinting down to catch his bus to the airport; and Dani Andrata’s first ascent of his five pitch masterpiece - A route taking the steepest line through the great arch, which he

BELOW L TO R: A boy playing at their local Basketball court in the isolated Village in a Cave, half an hours walk from anywhere | Looking up at the Great Arch |The best pancakes in Getu Valley - deep-fried and filled with a chili, seaweed mixture |The boatman taking us across the river to the Great Arch.

“Getu village consists of one street, which was where everything took place - Washing, cooking, eating, children playing and partying at night - there were even bonfires in the middle of the street! Surrounding the village were rice fields, vegetable gardens, bamboo plantations and amazing limestone cliffs. ” 18//WHERE

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#171

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 19

TECHNICAL GEAR AND LIGHTING FOR ALL YOUR OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Facebook. com/Petzl

ELIOS

REACTIVE LIGHTING

CONSTANT LIGHTING

DECLINING LIGHTING

ECLAIRAGE AUTOADAPTABLE

ECLAIRAGE CONSTANT

ECLAIRAGE DÉCROISSANT

HIRUNDOS

LYNX

www.petzl.co.nz www.spelean.co.nz for stockists

Coming July 2012 REACTIVE LIGHTING

CONSTANT LIGHTING

DECLINING LIGHTING

ECLAIRAGE

ABOVE L TO R: Look close, there’s someone climbing on there | The Petzl Roctrip banner across the entrance to the Getu Valley | Lynn Hill following me up one of the classic routes in the Great Arch | BELOW: Mayan climbing at Banyan Cave. graded 33. Having come straight from two months of crack climbing in Yosemite Valley, I struggled with the steep, powerful and dynamic sport routes. This, combined with throngs of people, made me feel a little out of my comfort zone. So I tried to escape the crowds by seeking out long routes - I felt much more at home while hanging several pitches off the ground, watching the craziness from a distance! The highlight of my trip was climbing the ultra classic multi-pitch route “Lost in translation” with Lynn Hill - The woman who paved the way for female climbers worldwide, and the one climber I have always looked up to. “Lost in translation” (a four pitch grade 30), was the first route to be established to the top of the arch, taking an impressive line out the right side of the arch. The final two rope lengths navigate through almost horizontal terrain, covered in free-hanging stalactites. The route was equipped with bamboo seats at every belay - It felt like being on another planet sitting on bamboo rods suspended one-hundred meters off the ground! Aside from outstanding climbing, the roctrip was enriched by the extreme differences in culture and genuine friendliness of the locals. Though we could not understand a word of what each other said, they were always helpful and accommodating. We ate most of our meals at a local guest house, where the whole team crowded around small tables,

while the family served us their local dishes. The food was good, but everyone struggled with it after a couple of days, let alone several weeks of eating exactly the same thing. Without fail, breakfast was noodle soup with some unknown ground meat and deep-fried egg. Dinner, though better, was still repetitive: rice, an array of local specialties and copious amounts of Tsing Tao beer. By the end of the trip everyone had first hand experience with uncontrollable diarrhea, and the conversation never strayed far away from good old American fast food. We were a commodity and the locals loved helping us in every way possible. They regularly stopped in the middle the road to give us a lift, even if they had no room. Once, my fellow Kiwi, the 16 year old Wiz and I were even picked up on our way back from the crag by a kind local on a moped. We pilled on behind him, while he stalled the bike, then promptly drove straight through a deep water-filled pot hole. All three of us ended up a little wet, and I almost flew off the back desperately clinging to both our packs. However, the local didn’t even flinch, he just shrugged and carried on like nothing had happened! Though not always pleasant, China was an amazing experience and somewhere I am looking forward to returning to. It really was a privilege to be invited to this event. Petzl organized a truly awesome event and I am looking forward to next years adventures!