Magical descent from Le Chemin de la Liberté, via a disappearing stream and an ancient shepherds’ path – overview.
The descent from the Chemin de la Liberté via the “Gouffre”, where the stream known as La Cuarde plunges down into the earth, is one of the most magical walks in this collection. It passes through a terrain known only to shepherds and a few dedicated locals. Unexpectedly, it breeches what appears to be an impenetrable bar of limestone separating the frontier from the valley above the Cabane det Caillau, where the track leads back to the Parking at Aumet. On the way, the route provides an opportunity to comprehend the geology of the region where the limestone beneath our feet turns out to be, not a solid mass, but an uncharted honeycomb of caves and aquifers. But more surprises lie in store. The ancient shepherds’ path winding its way through the rocks displays, from snow melt to late July, possibly the most stunning range of wild flowers to be found anywhere in the Cirque. Normally, a route so far off the beaten track would come with navigational issues. Here, however, with good visibility, the paths are either obvious or very well-marked with cairns and red paint.
Magical descent from Le Chemin de la Liberté, via a disappearing stream and an ancient shepherds’ path – overview. Start
Timing
Denivelation
Terrain
Season
Parking Aumet. Lhers
Complete circuit without the Pic de Burcq: 4h (Add another 1h.30m to include the summit.)
850m without the Pic de Burcq. (+50m to include the summit.)
Signposted mountain path. Mountain pasture and small waymarked Path.
May – October depending on the arrival of spring.
Starting at Aumet, follow the route known as “Le Chemin de la Liberté” to the Col de Saoubathou. Turn right (SW) and follow the obvious path along the frontier on the French side. Whilst on the path, look out for views of the Cabane de la Cuarde down to the right as this will help navigation later on. Continue along the frontier route passing the Col de la Cuarde where you will see the panel describing the epic journeys of refugees during WW2.
Beyond the Col, the trail continues NW to an obvious bend where it turns more Northerly on its way to the Col and Pic de Burcq. If you have not visited the Pic de Burcq before, it is well-worth the effort to continue to the Col (one of the best Picnic spots at this altitude in the Pyrenees) and to the Pic de Burcq with sensational views over both France and Spain. To enjoy this particular descent, however, it is necessary to come back to the bend where, looking E, the gentlest way down towards the Cabane de la Cuarde is apparent. After going down the initial grassy slope the landscape becomes a bit more lumpy with numerous possibilities for losing altitude. There are no dangers here, however, so a relaxed approach will lead easily towards the Cabane.
Walkers at the bend in the path
The Cabane, however, is not the objective of the route. Instead, during the way down, look out for the stream that snakes a journey across the small plateau. Focus is now turned upon the point where it meets the limestone barrier and disappears, left (NW) of the shepherds’ summer residence . With good visibility this will be very easy to locate.
Take a moment or two to contemplate the subterranean world, little known to mankind. In fact, this water source finds daylight again several kilometres away providing a valuable source of water for the village of Lescun. To continue, hop over the stream and walk up the bank above the Gouffre. Cairns and red dots on rocks lead the way through a limestone maze with, during spring and most of the summer, a dazzling exhibition of wild flowers and butterflies.
Above: The Cuarde disappearing. Right: close up of the route on the IGN map.
At no point is the way in doubt as it is always well waymarked. If in doubt, stop and look around. There will, inevitably, be a cairn or a red dot. Eventually, the path finds its way down to the valley above the Cabane det Caillau where the ways down are numerous. The best advice here is to follow the easiest route, keeping the Bois de Labarquère to the right. Well before arriving at the Cabane, however, you may wish to veer left (N) in order to save time by picking up the descent track lower down and, again, with good visibility, this will be very clear.
Above: One square metre of wild flowers on the descent via the gouffre.
Left: Descent through the limestone barrier.