CITY GUIDE

THEY’VE BEEN LIVING THE GOOD LIFE IN RIO DE JANEIRO FOR YEARS, YET ARE STILL WONDERSTRUCK BY THEIR CITY. SIX CARIOCAS, ALL NESPRESSO CLUB MEMBERS, SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE ESTABLISHMENTS AND A PORTRAIT OF THEIR BAYSIDE METROPOLIS.

By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak Portraits Jean-Christophe Husson

Paragliders and hang-gliders land on the São Conrado beach.

The Praça XV Station, the ferry terminal for bay crossings. The Escadaria Selarón linking the Santa Teresa and Lapa neighbourhoods.

A beach vendor selling “biscoitos” and “mate”.

MANUELA, FOOD BLOGGER AND STYLIST, MEMBER SINCE 2011

WITH HER ENCHANTING SMILE AND OUTGOING NATURE, Manuela is the epitome of today’s Carioca. She arrives at our meeting for the photo shoot and interview in the Ipanema Boutique with an unfailingly cheerful demeanour and boundless energy. This young woman devotes her time to researching Rio’s best eateries to assist discerning diners having decided to quit her legal career and reinvent herself as an author and food stylist. On her blog, “Cozinho, logo existo”, she explores the flavours of her native city through a savvy selection of venues and recipes that are as fresh and healthy as she is! This smiling and highly skilled chef loves cooking vegetables of every ilk. Another personal passion: Nespresso Grands Crus. She never starts the day without a cup of ARPEGGIO or RISTRETTO, prepared espresso-style. “I love everything about coffee: its aroma, its flavours, its intensity. I drink three a day: one in the morning, another after lunch and a last one mid-afternoon, often an ARPEGGIO DECAFFEINATO.”

CULTURAL CHIC INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES 1 “It’s a cultural centre that often hosts photography exhibits. The building is exquisite, just like the patio, surrounded by gardens designed by Burle Marx, the great Brazilian landscape architect. I go there to enjoy their events or sip a coffee in the peace and quiet.”

VEGGIE FARE . ORG BISTRÔ 2 “I often go to this charming little restaurant, alone or with friends, for their vegetarian dishes. I recommend their feijoada – the traditional Brazilian dish – in which they substitute tofu for pork. I’m not vegetarian, but I do limit my red meat consumption to just once a week.”

POPULAR PIZZA FERRO E FARINHA 3 “The chef made his start in Rio by selling pizzas in the street, then opened this tiny restaurant. You have to either share a table set up outside or elbow your way to a spot at the counter. In my opinion, this is the best pizza in town. It’s wood-fired and their recipes have an exotic touch.”

Manuela researches the flavours of her native city for readers of her blog.

ROCK SHOP KULT KOLECTOR 4 “This place has a real underground, rocker attitude. It’s a vintage shop, bar and concert hall rolled into one. The skateboard culture club rubs elbows with music and film enthusiasts and the atmosphere is youthful and relaxed. I love the nights when they showcase the blues. ”

PARADISE WILD PRAIA DA RESERVA 5 “The vast beach is gorgeous and lies behind the lagoon that’s a listed nature reserve. Everything is so beautiful – the sand, the water. And it’s quieter than the south Rio neighbourhoods. There are no bars or restaurants at Reserva – you go there for the beauty of a wild, pristine beach.”

WATERSIDE WALK PALAPHITA KITCH 6 “I like to walk around the lagoon, the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. I have a number of favourite places to stop along the way. Palaphita Kitch is a very pleasant, popular bar for enjoying a cocktail. Over on the other side is the Quiosque Arab, which serves tasty, down-to-earth SyrianLebanese cuisine.”

TWILIGHT TIME PEDRA DO ARPOADOR 8 “To reach the Arpoador rock, you have to walk along Ipanema as far as quiosque No. 7. There, you climb up on the rock to watch the sunset. There’s something magical about the place, a kind of positive energy.”

José is at last taking the time to admire the Rio sunsets.

DELICIOUS DELICATESSEN TALHO CAPIXABA 7 “I meet my friends in this deli for coffee. It first opened in 1958 and serves great sweet and savoury treats and high-quality products. I recommend going during the week, because the place is very crowded on weekends.”

JOSÉ, BUSINESS CONSULTANT, MEMBER SINCE 2008

JOSÉ: THE QUIET STRENGTH OF ONE WHO HAS LIVED INTENSELY. After a career with major public companies in Brazil and France, this Rio native seems to at last be taking the time to admire the sunsets that set the bay ablaze each evening. A son of Egyptian and Lebanese immigrants, he cares deeply about this city and grew up with his parents and two brothers in Tijuca, a neighbourhood in Rio’s Northern Zone. The prestigious Fundação Getúlio Vargas, the higher education institution where he studied public administration, is where he met his wife with whom he recently celebrated forty-two years of marriage. But it was in France that he discovered Nespresso: “It was in the late 1990s. I came back to Rio with my machine, before the brand had become established in this country. A friend had to supply me with the capsules until 2006 when I could finally buy my own in the Boutiques in Brazil.” He passed on his passion for Grands Crus to his son, who lives in Australia: “The first thing I gave him as a going-away gift was a Nespresso machine!” says this lover of ARPEGGIO and RISTRETTO, which he drinks unsweetened… and uncounted.

HISTORIC RIO PRAÇA XV qp “I go to this square to admire the colonial architecture, but also for the regular flea markets they hold here. You can stroll the surrounding area and stop in one of the neighbourhood’s many restaurants.”

INNER PEACE LE QUARTIER D’URCA 9 “This is the area by Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar). Urca has a character all of its own, a traditional, provincial charm and tranquil lifestyle. To truly appreciate it, you need to let yourself aimlessly wander the shady streets. ”

BRAZILIAN BACKER MARACANÃ qq “I’m a supporter of the Fluminense club – they play at the Maracanã stadium. I could support the Vasco da Gama club, which is traditionally the Portuguese immigrants’ team, but I really love the Fluminense green, garnet and white jersey. What’s more, I converted everyone in my family – except my father –to these colours, too!”

ARNALDO, ENGINEER, MEMBER SINCE 2012

LOVE KNOWS NO BOUNDS. That’s Arnaldo’s philosophy when it comes to coffee. This industrial production engineer, owner of a consulting firm, manages to drink more than eight cups a day! As for machines, this man who has had visions of aircraft dancing in his head since he was a child is astounded by those designed by Nespresso. “I’ve already purchased eight of them. I have them set up absolutely everywhere. Whenever I get the chance, I give them to my parents, members of my family, everyone.” And when, four years ago, Arnaldo met the woman who would become his wife, he chose one of the Swiss brand’s machines for her – even before choosing the ring. Today, he lives in the Barra da Tijuca district. He has a soft spot in his heart for Portugal, the land of his grandparents, holds dual Brazilian and Portuguese nationality, and is considering moving to the other side of the Atlantic someday. Meanwhile, on his patio, he dedicates his time to the pleasures of reading and gardening. There, again, coffee is never far away: “I love the cocoa note of the Grand Cru INDRIYA FROM INDIA. It’s the perfect brew to go with a good book!”

LEGENDARY LANDSCAPE CRISTO REDENTOR qf “Take the time to climb to the top of Corcovado, topped by the Christ the Redeemer statue. You can see the entire geography of Rio de Janeiro from there, all the incredible contrast between sea, sky and mountains. The view is astounding. ”

MEAT MECCA CHURRASCARIA PALACE qd “This restaurant, behind the Copacabana beach, serves the carioca specialty of spit-grilled meat. The servers perform a veritable ballet between the tables with their hunks of beef, lamb, pork or chicken. I also like going to the Fogo de Chão in the Botafogo district. The view from there is breathtaking.”

TIME TRAVEL CONFEITARIA COLOMBO qs “You have to look upwards to really appreciate the beauty of the glass ceiling. The interior architecture is simply amazing. Whether you’re in the groundfloor café or the upstairs restaurant, it’s a journey back in time. I love more than just this gem – I love this whole historic district, where ancient buildings stand side-by-side with cuttingedge contemporary construction.”

FUTURISTIC FOCUS MUSEU DO AMANHÃ qg “This recently-opened museum stands as testament to this area’s renaissance. It’s called the ‘Museum of Tomorrow’ because the exhibits focus on science, technology and sustainable development. The largest aquarium in South America is nearby, scheduled to open in 2016.”

Arnaldo cares deeply about both Rio’s heritage and its future.

BOUNTIFUL BREAKFAST ESCOLA DO PÃO qh “This restaurant is only open for breakfast and dinner. We come here in the morning when we have a bit of extra time to start our day. Our favourite meal to order is fruit, cereal, orange juice, toast or tapioca with eggs and coffee. You can also buy bread here – they have a wide selection of varieties.”

HEAVENLY HIKE PEDRA BONITA qj “A hike on one of Rio’s mountains is a must. We’d suggest Pedra Bonita, which peaks at 520 metres. It’s not a difficult walk and only takes about forty minutes.”

SURF CITY THE PRAINHA qk AND MACUMBA BEACHES ql “We usually surf before going to work. And on the weekends, after riding some nice tubes, To be sure we stop at the Rico Point quiosque – it’s managed by a surfer and serves to catch the best waves, awesome acai juice. ” Gustavo gets up at 5 a.m.

CARIOCA CARDIO COMPANHIA ATHLETICA GYM sp “This fitness club inside the Barra Shopping mall is where we work. We give individual and group lessons. Cariocas are crazy about exercise and work out very often.”

JÚLIA AND GUSTAVO, FITNESS COACHES, MEMBERS SINCE 2012

YOU HAVE TO REALLY BE IN SHAPE TO KEEP UP with the frenetic pace of Júlia and Gustavo! This couple, who work as a team in an athletic club, go from one activity to the next: up with the sun for a morning surf, then cycling, rock climbing and more. And when asked to describe one another over a Grand Cru, RISTRETTO is what comes first to mind for Júlia when talking about her amante: “Gustavo never stops! He gets up at 5 a.m. to be sure he catches the best waves. For him, coffee is a kick-start to the day!” On the other hand, CARAMELITO is what helps Gustavo describe his companion: “Júlia is mild, sweet..., ” he says tenderly. They live in the Barra da Tijuca district and make the most of the relaxed atmosphere of its streets, not to mention the tubes that Gustavo has been surfing since his youth. He was born in Rio de Janeiro; she came to the city at the age of 10 from the neighbouring Minas Gerais region.

POST-BEACH BREW SEU BAR sq “In our neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, Gustavo is a regular at this bar, meeting for a drink with friends and watching a game on one of the many screens. They have a huge patio that spills out onto the street. It’s the perfect place to wrap up a day at the beach with a cold beer!”

DALTON, RETIRED CIVIL SERVANT, MEMBER SINCE 2009

HIS SURNAME – TORRES CAFFÉ FILHO – surely fated him to substantial coffee consumption! When we met Dalton at midday, not far from his home in Ipanema, he had already enjoyed six cups of DHARKAN and RISTRETTO! “My name does indeed come from a coffee trader, but alas the family history has been lost over the decades”, explains this former tax administration employee. After living in the Ramos and Del Castilho neighbourhoods in the northern part of the city, he is now in the south, near the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, enjoying time with friends and savouring the freedom that comes with retirement. This Carioca has a straightforward gaze and never misses an opportunity to visit the nearby Boutique and enjoy one of his favourite Grands Crus: “I spent a long time looking for a machine that could prepare better coffee than could be found in the city’s bars, and I found exactly what I was looking for with Nespresso!” With his characteristic touch of humour, he admits, “By going to the Boutique so much, I’m afraid the staff might take me for a profiteer... but I do so love this coffee!”

SHORE STROLL LAGOA RODRIGO DE FREITAS ss “Every day, I walk all the way around the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon just behind Ipanema. I’m rather proud to say I cover the 7.5 kilometres in about 45 minutes! I cross paths with joggers and cyclists who, like me, are outside enjoying this sublime scenery. ”

Dalton likes getting together with friends near the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas.

WINES OF THE WORLD CAVIST VINOTECA & RESTÔ sd “I truly love Ipanema. It’s a neighbourhood with two personalities: there’s the beach on one side, the lagoon on the other. That’s the side I like best and includes this wine bar that has a superb list of wines from around the world. And the value for money is excellent.”

LUSITANIAN LUNCH GRUTA DE SANTO ANTÔNIO sf “This family establishment located on the other side of Guanabara Bay is a great lunch place for those wanting to explore the city of Niterói across from Rio. It’s a Portuguese restaurant serving a wide variety of cod-based dishes.”

TROPICAL UTOPIA JARDIM BOTÂNICO sg “The Botanical Garden boasts more than 6,000 tropical plant species! I love strolling through this green paradise with my grandchildren – you can also see the monkeys roaming free. Make sure you go through the alley of imperial palms: they’re gigantic and majestic. ”

PERFECT PAUSE PARQUE LAGE sh “If you want to get completely away from the hustle-bustle of the city, the Parque Lage is a spectacular site at the foot of the Tijuca Forest. It’s also home to the School of Visual Arts and a café where you can sip some refreshment while gazing at the Cristo atop Corcovado.”