FRANCE A Perfect Serving of Savoyard Heritage

XERIORIORIO MOS REICIUNTUR A IPSANDA Evelit eum rehendae exerum restiore aut peria consed A PERFECT SERVING OF SAVOYARD HERITAGE quid etus, sinullab id unto endelit volor ratum, ium quiatur res id quas conseque et aliqui ipis dis ullatquam Located in the heart of France’s Les Trois Vallées ski resort, La Bouitte is both reprem doluptaspic tem veles maionsedit que oditios. a Michelin three-star restaurant and a five-star hotel. Its authentic representation of Savoyard culture has earned it recognition as an Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (a Living Heritage Company) by France’s Institut National des Métiers d’Art (National Institute of Crafts).

Text Christian Simenc – Photos Jérôme Galland

THIS IS THE STORY OF AN UNASSUMING RURAL EATERY that became an internationally revered haven of gastronomy. It’s also the story of two self-taught yet virtuoso chefs, René and Maxime Meilleur–a father and son who, over four decades, have formed an inimitable culinary partnership. The story begins in 1976 in the hamlet of Saint-Marcel, at the heart of France’s Savoie region, near the largest ski area in the world, Les Trois Vallées. At an altitude of 4,927 feet/1,502 meters, René Meilleur and his wife Marie-Louise opened a restaurant–“the chalet of their dreams”–where they served simple but generous fondues and raclette dishes. They called it La Bouitte, or ‘little house’ in the local Savoyard dialect, and a regular stream of happy patrons came and went. But one evening in 1981, the couple had a memorable dinner at Paul Bocuse, the eponymous, iconic gourmet restaurant in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, near Lyon, that would change their lives. It was a “shock to the taste buds” which sparked an idea. “After that meal, we realized we had to move towards more elaborate and creative dishes, while focusing closely on local produce–lamb from our local farmer, fish from the lake, herbs from the mountains, and so on,” says René. “Little by little, we took out the raclette machines, began serving more elegant dishes and took a brand new approach to our restaurant.”

In 1996, Maxime, who had had a successful career in the French junior biathlon (cross-country skiing and rifle shooting) team, joined his father in the kitchen, somewhat by chance. “I went inside one day to make some crème anglaise and never came out,” he says. A partnership was formed, and experience was shared. At La Bouitte, the family’s ties are strong: Marie-Louise runs the hotel and Delphine, Maxime’s wife, is maître d’hôtel. Maxime quickly learned the ropes, channeling his athletic abilities of endurance and excellence into this new world. With his father’s guidance, he soon became an effective partner. “When we cook, we are two painters contributing to the same canvas,” says René. “Each one adds their own touch, and we finalize the work together.” The stars did not take long to shine. La Bouitte’s first Michelin star was awarded in 2003. The second came in 2008, before a third–the ultimate accolade–was awarded in 2015. “It’s as if my father and I had reached the top of the mountain, and could enjoy the breathtaking views before us,” says Maxime. “A new life began.” Behind the glass kitchen door, a team in white berets springs into motion, led by René and Maxime. Meilleur means ‘best’ in French, so there is no room for error. “There is a kind of authenticity and sincerity in this style of cooking that you just don’t find elsewhere,” says Maxime. “The difficulty is to enhance without distorting.”

Left: The two chefs at La Bouitte, René (left) and Maxime Meilleur. Below: In the hotel lounge hangs an astonishing collection of bells produced in Chamonix. Bottom: All staff wear interpretations of traditional Savoyard clothing, designed by Arpin, a well-known local spinning mill. Right: Perch from lakes across Savoie, served with butter sauce, grilled fishbone jus, vegetables and marsh samphire.

Above: All hands on deck: lunchtime in the kitchen with the brigade of ‘Meilleur’ white berets. Right: A detail of La Bouitte’s monumental architecture, which includes centuriesold wooden cladding recovered from old sheepfolds.

Ravioli with Reblochon cheese are plunged into onion stock and served with slivers of fried onion rings. Fillet of fera from Lake Geneva is draped in a thin sliver of crusty bread and served with a frothy white wine (Roussette de Savoie) butter sauce. One dish has been served at La Bouitte ever since it earned its first star: escalope of pan-fried duck foie gras balanced on a corn cake, infused with local Saint-Marcel honey and a reduction of matured vinegar. At the end of the menu, an immaculate dessert. Named Lait dans tous ses états (milk in all its forms) it uses milk from sheep, cows and goats, presented in a variety of textures: powder, mousse, yogurt, butter, meringue, sorbet and jam. It couldn’t be more delicious or mouthwateringly nostalgic.

Members of the Meilleur kitchen team are never content with routine excellence, but always strive to come up with new ideas. Like tightrope walkers, René and Maxime can finely balance a Carte Blanche menu with three to eight surprise dishes, combining guest preferences, morning produce arrivals and any new sources of inspiration. Or, as they have been doing for a decade now during their famous wine-tasting evenings, they may create custom compositions that marry beautifully with the terroirs and styles of the wines they showcase. With more than a thousand entries, their cellar may be one of the most varied in the Alps, with vintages dating to 1937. At La Bouitte, any culinary journey inevitably ends by the fireside with something sweet, including cruche cake, based on a recipe by Gisèle, René’s mother. This is just one of myriad nostalgic taste memories the chef has been collecting, since 2018, with the mountain recipes organization (Conservatoire des Recettes de Montagne) that he chairs.

Over the years, La Bouitte has gradually unfolded into a wonderful maze of warm and welcoming spaces. The hotel and restaurant is a monumental building with sloping roofs and thick walls–an ode to the region’s traditional architectural heritage. Raw materials–stone or slate roof tiles, blue stone, larch framework and centuries-old timber from former sheepfolds–contribute to its serene atmosphere. Its 15 rooms, including seven suites, echo that mood, decorated in cozy textiles woven at a local spinning mill, while interior design throughout incorporates local folk art from the 17th- to the 19thcenturies. This runs from all types of furniture through to butter molds, portable stoups and ornate chests. A series of bells from prestigious manufacturers in Chamonix rubs shoulders with a collection of plates and pottery found in Haute-Savoie. One of the dining rooms has a splendid Baroque-style painted ceiling decorated with carved cherubs. Even the cheese trolley is a fantastic example of local artisanship. “I find it incredible that people have designed such beautiful things for everyday use,” says René Meilleur.

La Bouitte’s most adventurous guests shouldn’t miss the opportunity to meet in the reception area at 6:30am, in order to climb the nearby mountains in a tracked vehicle to an altitude of 8,800 feet/2,700 meters. There, before the sun comes up, they can admire the opposite view, just below the pink gleams of light known as the Belt of Venus, a thick, curved slate blue line: the shadow of the Earth projected on the atmosphere for just a few minutes. Finally, they can indulge in a delicious breakfast at the summit, savoring the sunrise over the Alps, including Mont Blanc, and descend on the most perfect virgin powder, before the ski lifts have even opened to the public.

LA BOUITTE IS AN ODE TO THE REGION’S CULTURAL HERITAGE.

Left: Blankets and throws woven at a Savoyard mill create a warm and cozy atmosphere. Above right: In the foreground, the hamlet of Saint-Marcel. Below: Local artisan heritage is also expressed through elegant tableware. Right: A hearty welcome awaits–a generous serving of praline brioche. JÉRÔME GALLAND Photographer “The late morning light in the restaurant room of La Bouitte is the most beautiful to photograph. The whole team is preparing the lunch service, meticulously, like a ceremony. It’s a treat to capture the details and precise gestures.”

Meet the Meilleur family, on video

HÔTEL-SPA LA BOUITTE – RESTAURANT RENÉ ET MAXIME MEILLEUR, Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, France