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ALL IMAGES © ANNE HELENE GJELSTAD ÔI t’s important for photographers everywhere that we fi nd our style, fi nd what we love to do. If you don’t fi nd such a project, you wouldn’t go difference and Anne Helene felt that she was ready to start putting the book together and looking for a publisher.

Men are fl eeting guests in the story, the Hand craft ed A new book explores a society of strong matriarchs in Estonia. Peter Dench chats with the photographer to fi nd out more

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through with it. You need to care deeply. It makes my heart sing.’

Award-winning Norwegian photographer Anne Helene Gjelstad is talking about her reportage and book, Big Heart, Strong Hands published by Dewi Lewis. For several weeks at a time over 11 years, she has fastidiously documented the unique matriarchal society of old women living on the islands Kihnu and Manija, teardrops of mainland Estonia, isolated in the Baltic Sea.

Anne Helene, with 25 years’ experience in fashion and design, had an idea for a book photographing the islanders and their handicrafts. While she was there, an old lady died and she was asked to photograph her funeral. ‘That changed everything, the handicrafts then became only a part of the project, the old ladies became the most important part,’ explains Anne Helene from her mountain home south of Oslo, the city where she grew up.

Shortly after turning 50, Anne Helene turned to photography. In 2007 she was accepted on a two-year course at the prestigious Bilder Nordic School of Photography in Oslo. ‘When I started at the school I was older than the mothers of some of my classmates. I thought “I cannot learn this in 20 years, I have to learn now!”’ She learnt quickly photographing Big Heart, Strong Hands . In the beginning, there were lots of unsharp images, not realising she had to use a fast shutter.

Inspiration As well as from the school, guidance came from photographers Mary Ellen Mark and Cig Harvey. ‘Mary Ellen encouraged me to take portraits in landscape format which made a huge change. I could include much more of the rooms and surroundings, everything that is interesting and not only a face.’ Towards the end of the project, Cig advised Anne Helene she had to go back in winter as she only had sunny pictures. ‘Of course she was right, so I pushed myself to go back. I needed to show the really harsh conditions of old women out in the snow.’ The pictures made a signifi cant images of Big Heart, Strong Hands are all about the old women. Captured in natural light on Canon and Nikon cameras, the lines on their faces are as detailed and cracked as the homes they live in. Their traditional dress have patterns of vibrant fl owers, stripes and swirls that would inspire Op artist, Bridget Riley. Their Estonian blue eyes look deep into the past, an often diffi cult one of war, Soviet occupation, economic crisis, extreme weather, alcoholism and a depleted population as the island’s youth seek out opportunities on the mainland and abroad. ‘It’s understandable, if you want to stay on the island you have to earn money. You can’t live off the farms any more. In the Soviet times you could have a cow, have milk everyday and some of the women were even able to build a house from the money they earned from one cow. So it’s not possible for this old kind of life any more,’ clarifi es Anne Helene.

Disappearing Around 35 women were photographed – not all of them are in the book and now maybe only ten are left. ‘That’s the hard part, I care so much for these ladies, now they are disappearing and dying.’ Speaking a little German and Estonian, utilising local interpreters and using lots of hand gestures and hugs, Anne Helene made sure their stories would survive and inspire future generations. ‘The writing has been very important, to be able to address the old women directly. I got to learn they have been working hard their whole lives because the men go to sea, they need to plough the fi elds, to learn everything themselves, it’s a not-giving-up-culture for them, doing the best they can.’

And that can be applied to Anne Helene’s photography. She has worked hard, didn’t give up and has done the best she can to preserve a tradition and culture away from the city lives of big business and bottomless brunches. Inevitably, if you visit Kihnu and Manija today, you will see they have adapted their identity and customs for new occupation of the island – tourism.

Above: Koksi Leida, 2008

Left: Oia Anni, 2010

Below: Rilka Ann, 2011

Anne Helene Gjelstad Norweigian photographer and fashion designer Gjelstad has been exhibited and published numerous times. She has also won several awards. Visit www. annehelenegjelstad. com for more information.

Left: Vahtra Helju & Mari, 2008

Below: Neeme Mari, 2008

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