Awakening Aging Skin

DNA Testing To Customise Your Skincare Products

By Hasina Khatib - VOGUE

The relationship between science and beauty is an ever-evolving one. When it comes to skincare, the one-size-fits-all adage—suggesting that products can simply be skin tone - or skin type-specific —doesn’t hold much weight anymore, and newer innovations are only too happy to bridge the gap between what’s available in the market and what your skin specifically needs. With an increased focus on what works for individual skin types, hyper-personalised beauty is gaining favour all over the world. The quest for identifying what works best for you goes beyond just skin deep—right down to the genetic level—helping you analyse and predict how to reverse certain skin conditions.

What Is DNA-based Skincare, And Why Is It Better?

As the world makes a collective shift towards bespoke beauty, customising products for one’s specific DNA serves as the next logical step, believes celebrity skin expert Dr Harshna Bijlani. She says, “We all know that DNA makes up our appearance— the colour of our hair, eyes and skin tone are all determined by our DNA. But many aren’t aware that the ageing process is also controlled by our DNA. Human DNA comes in 23 pairs of packages called chromosomes. These chromosomes are large bundles of tightly-packed DNA. The genes that you have in your body right now make up your genotype, which determines your physical appearance. Your genes greatly impact your skin health with regards to how soon you start ageing, your propensity towards discolouration or pigmentation, the tendency to have freckles, hair colour, sagging skin and so on. So, for example, if your skin cells are not so great at deflecting UV rays, a DNA test can suggest you add a higher SPF to your routine.

How Can DNA-based Skincare Help You Personalise Your Skincare Routine?

The primary takeaway from this new branch of skincare is that studying DNA can help determine the concerns that your skin could be prone to, including pigmentation and inflammation. By identifying these underlying concerns, you would theoretically be able to take preventive action accordingly. The skincare products found over the counter are great at controlling skincare concerns once you notice them, like lack of moisture, signs of ageing, sun protection, pigmentation and acne. “However, if certain skin issues aren’t getting better despite efforts, then DNA testing could help understand what the underlying issues could be,” Bijlani explains.

What Is The Process of DNA Testing and Mapping For Beauty Products?

Those with a phobia of needles needn’t worry, since the process of DNA testing is largely non-invasive in nature. A simple swab test is usually conducted at the clinic or through an at-home DNA testing kit. The swab is then sent to a laboratory, where the genetic components are broken down and studied to understand your dominant genes, your skin’s current collagen and antioxidant levels, and sun and inflammation protection factors. Once these factors are determined, experts can help you pick the right skincare products for your skin’s needs, and also recommend preventative products.

If you would like to try DNA mapping for a highly personalised skincare routine, Bijlani recommends that London-based skincare label, Geneu, would a good place to start. Those who don’t have the patience to wait for test results to come back will rejoice in the same-day DNA testing available as part of the personalised serum range at Selfridges as well. In addition, the skin expert also recommends Sweden-based skincare brand, ALLÉL, which offers DNA-tailored skincare and supplements at a string of certified clinics spread across Europe and South Africa.

For further convenience, Skintelli helps you perfect your skincare routine by analysing genetic factors through an at-home DNA testing kit. The process of DNA collection is carried out through painless collection adhesives, after which the skin samples are to be mailed back for testing. Once they determine the current quality of your skin, you will receive personalised matching with existing skincare products across three pricing tiers, ranging from luxury names to retail stores.

In India, FutureMed, a DNA testing company, includes skin health as a part of their overall testing. In an interview, Chandni Luthra, director at FutureMed India, confirmed that skin ageing can be predicted and further investigated through testing. “Everything from wrinkles, cellulite to inflammation and skin sagging is related to your genetic makeup. This is because the skin is made up of so many proteins. For example, collagen, which forms the basic structure in the skin, is a protein, so is melanin, the pigment, which gives skin its colour. This explains why some people start seeing wrinkles, fine lines, acne and skin discolouration in their early 20s, while others only see skin trouble later on in their lives,” she explains.

So, should you hop onboard this science-driven skincare innovation? The numbers suggest that you will anyway, sooner rather than later. The market size of DNA-based skincare products across the globe is expected to touch $1.7 billion by 2025.

Bespoke creams for skincare concerns, such as sun protection, scars and wrinkles, find the highest number of takers at 52.8 per cent of the market share. Facials serums for different age groups serve as the second most sought after products, with an estimated growth rate of eight per cent annually.

What Precautions Should You Keep In Mind When Opting For DNA-based Skincare?

The good news first. A customised skincare regimen that keeps all your needs and factors in mind can help counter external skin aggressors, while also dealing with internal deficiencies like boosting collagen production and reducing damage caused by free radicals. However, it pays to bear in mind that the concept of DNA-based skincare is still in its nascent stages. Some doctors are concerned that consumers might take DNA tests as bible, which can be harmful when issues like rosacea, acne and eczema may need to be diagnosed and treated by a dermatologist first. “There isn’t enough research done to prove the efficacy of DNA skincare testing. Plus, the current customisation available for different product formulations is quite limited. Most companies can help do a DNA test and recommend products from their catalogue. However, unique formulations based on DNA testing are still not quite available. It is also worthy to note that it’s quite an expensive process right now, and may not be accessible for everyone,” Bijlani cautions.