Tastes like denim by Lete Hulscher

TASTES LIKE DENIM

Table of Contents

Introduction Circle of Taste

3 4 Salty

Sweet Introducing Sweet

Introducing Salty

Lucky Brand Current-elliott J Brand Fornarina

9 11 13 15

Lee Wrangler Nudie Jeans G-Star

45 47 49 51

Spicy

Bitter Introducing Bitter

Introducing Spicy

Acne Denham Dr. Denim Gluejeans

21 23 25 27

Evisu 7 for all Mankind True Religion Guess

57 59 61 63

Matrix

Sour Introducing Sour

Conclusion

Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cheap Monday Pepe Jeans London Diesel

33 35 37 39

Contributors Source list

68 69 70

Introduction Diana Vreeland once observed, ‘Blue jeans are the most beautiful things since the gondola.’ While one can argue that jeans are just a mass-manufactured garment, no one can argue that these denim trousers are the most essential garment to have revolutionized human history. From the birth of jeans in 1873 by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss to the popularization of jeans by James Dean in Rebel without a cause in 1955, jeans have known to play a huge role in the social, economic and political aspects of the society. Jeans accompany you through your travels in life. They shape you, yet you shape them. It is for a reason that indigo is called the living colour; it fades gradually and shows the wrinkles of damages of living. Jeans can be rough, industrial and raw, but they can also be classy, sexy, feminine or casual. This versatile garment, essential to everyone’s wardrobe, comes in all colours, fits, washes and sizes. Every human being has their own denim taste, so brands try to stand out and create their own. Universally acknowledged, you only get to the core of something when you taste and try it. Taste, as one of the five senses, is amongst the hardest ones to examine jeans with. Inspired by Ruud Boer, author of the book Brand Design, we took the challenge of linking taste to jeans. The author is an A-list Marketer working for Dutch companies like Bols or Red Band, that very much play with the consumers’ senses. This is a powerful tool of seduction. According to him, a brand can be experienced with all of our five senses, a pivotal factor in our experience economy nowadays. In fashion, look and feel are said to be the most obvious and promoted in branding. However, the denim market is already limited to material, which makes it hard to differentiate brands from each other. In this case, for a clear separation, we have to make use of our other senses. Fashion Taste is crucial in this industry and every brand targets different taste groups. An interaction between the taste buds of the human being and the fashion term “taste” evokes a powerful emotion that enables us to differentiate brands within this market clearly. Taste is a sensation in our mouth where our sensors, the so-called taste buds, interact with molecules of the food we eat. Our tongue is able to sense aversive and appetitive flavours which evoke an emotion in our body. These emotions come from within and make us judge on different foods, a phenomenon that is equally visible in fashion. According to a feeling we develop for a certain brand we decide if we want to be part of it.

The similarities between actual taste and the figurative level, however, are by far more. The classified flavour can be related to more than food only. What originated from your body now becomes a classification process in general. For example a sweet taste does not only relate to nutrition but can also be used to describe a person or an experience with using the same understanding of the word, subconsciously. Furthermore, a taste in your mouth can also have an effect on your behavior. For example a sour lemon can bring out your sour part of your personality. This can be related to brands as well, as they have the same characteristics as a person. In every meal all of the different tastes can be components, just like brands have more than only one characteristic. It is the most dominant one though that makes us judge. In the world of taste the most dominant flavor wins, in fashion, branding helps us decide. Divided into five different tastes, this brand book contains 20 analyses on denim brands in terms of their history, target audience, retail taste and communication strategies to highlight the different identities each brand has. To all brands, selling jeans is the core of the brand, but all do this by using different strategies, visions and missions. The brands each focus on different market segments. With showing all these flavours and brands, we want to activate, entice and seduce you into the world of denim tastes. Everyone has his or her own taste, yet not everyone has taken this journey to find out. Who knows what flavour this book will let you encounter? There is only one way to find out. Let the world of taste accompany you. Maybe you will get everything you expected. Maybe you will get more then you ever could have imagined. The road is long. Remember, at the end of the day the journey of taste is the destination.

Circle of Taste

hap

rou

SWEET

ful

ng ual x e s

conďŹ dent

iref

ive

des

differenti ating sob e ser r iou s

st de mo fresh

rite i p s

free daring

satisfyi

se du

fu h t u

lovable

SPICY

nt domina

toug

joy

raw

SALTY

BITTER

SOUR

SWEET

SWEET Think sweet thoughts. Smile. Roll up the legs of your jeans to feel warm sand under your feet. Ice cream dripping on ďŹ ngers. Soft breezes that play with the hair that hides smiling faces. Sunshine on bare skin. Laughter. Birds that circle in blue skies. Laying down in the grass. Daydreaming. Putting on your favourite pair of jeans. Sweetness is the most neutral taste. Sweet food contains endorphins that make us happy. We use it as a tool for satisfaction, associated with carbohydrates and sugar. This chapter makes familiar the sweetest brands to touch a length of denim cloth. Why? Fornarina favours the feminine, Current-elliott touches on daydreams of fortune and fame. J Brand seeks to make women feel unique and Lucky Brand offers a feel of relaxed and free. Indulge in reading this delicious part.

LUCKY BRAND Essential ingredients Vision: We live, breathe and dream in denim. Mission: LUCKY YOU! Create the place to communicate an individual style. Secret Ingredient: Lucky Brand Jeans even has maternity jeans due to its wide variety of ﬁts. Price: € 30 -140 Retail Keywords: Playful, vintage, Americana, freedom and spirit

The Good Old Days

Lucky Brand Jeans is a denim company founded in California in 1990 by Gene Montesano and Barry Perlman. The brand is known for being a pioneer and innovator with a sense of humour in the world of modern denim. This is evident in its trademark four-leaf clover. The brand fuses vintage bohemian-chic with Rock & Roll that is inspired by the free spirit, nature and the laid-back lifestyle of Southern California.

Big Ideas

As the brand’s slogan “jeans are a piece of your selfexpression” states, the value of the products can be found in their good ﬁts, comfort, and different styles. This gives the consumer an opportunity to communicate their individual style. Innovative washes and hand-made ﬁnishes are examples of these unique touches.

Creations

Furthermore the products of Lucky Brand Jeans derive from playfulness in order to portray the brand’s concept; lucky elements. The phrases “LUCKY ME!” and “LUCKY YOU!”, which can be seen on the ﬂy shield, make the brand highly recognizable by consumers. Moreover, the idea can be seen in the names of the products as well; such as the “Sweet ‘n’ Low” and “Riley Boyfriend”. The colours the brand uses are often dark blue, mustard yellow and Bordeaux red to reﬂect the brand’s core attributes; spirit, freshness, Americana, nostalgia and freedom.

Admirers

The brand targets American people with a Southern California style, aged 18-35. As they speak a story behind that those who are living their last summer before going to college or those who are living their last moments of innocence before traveling into adulthood, the type of audience can be described as the one who is free-spirited and strives to break away from normality.

Correspondence

The communication channels are taken on a large scale to reach the majority in urban area through print and digital media, including advertisement in magazines, posters on streets, and its website. A smart approach by understanding American culture reveals the brand’s success that has 209 stores in the USA nowadays. The denim products can be also bought in three company-owned stores in Europe, Puerto Rico, Canada, the United Arab Emirates, and Australia. Besides the mono brand stores, the denim is sold widely at major department stores. However the difﬁculty on the growth of the business can be predicted in the future due to its popularity slowdown.

Milieu

Lucky Brand Jeans portrays the American spirit which is a core inspiration of the brand’s identity in the retail environment. The store engenders a warm atmosphere of western America with a sensation of playfulness and

freedom. The wooden interior drives vintage and nostalgia, but at the same time, American culture plays in an easy mood.

Dreams

Besides the denim product itself, the brand has launched a charity organization, Lucky Brand Foundation, which is established with the goal to support children. To remain true to the heart, making a blight future, they raise money for disabled children’s charities like Smile Train and the Bridge School. Lucky Brand Jeans provides creation of styles to its audience by a wide variety of ﬁts, handmade quality, and American spirit. The brand makes customers to play seeking their own styles by giving an enjoyment to explore themselves through an experience of the product as the brand believes that jeans are much more than just blue denim and grommets.

CURRENT/ELLIOT

Essential ingredients Vision: Wear for love, love for wear Mission: Current/Elliott seeks to transcend denim trends with its unique silhouettes, classic ﬁt, and everlasting aesthetics. Price range: € 150-350 Secret ingredient: Every pair of jeans offered in the collection has a historical reference, an original vintage sample and year of origin Retail taste: Feminine, authentic, soft, vintage, cool

The Good Old Days

The Los Angeles based brand Current /Elliot that was launched in July 2008 is known for creating unique silhouettes and classic ﬁtted jeans. The brand was created from the love for vintage denim with the American roots in mind. From washes to the ﬁts and styles, Current/Elliot aims to respect the history of American denim and its enduringness.

Big Ideas

The vision “wear for love, love for wear” comes from the brand’s inspiration from vintage pieces. As a mission the brand seeks to transcend denim trends with its exclusive silhouettes, classic ﬁt and everlasting aesthetics. Femininity, comfort and timelessness are the brand’s core values. With these core values Current/Elliot seeks to harmonize innovative ideas, fresh talent and unique concepts that result in a beautiful tailored product.

Creations

Current Elliot has a modern approach to American classics and denim trends with its silhouettes and ever-lasting aesthetics. According to the brand each pair of jeans in the collection pays homage to the importance that denim has played throughout American history. Every jeans style in the collection has a historical reference, an original vintage sample and a year of origin. The brand produces boot cut and skinny jeans, of which “The Boyfriend jeans” is still the best-selling model today. ‘’The Boyfriend jeans’’ appeared in the 2010 Spring/Summer collection. The jeans are often produced in a variety of colours and denim blends, as well as animal prints such as leopard and zebra. By offering a diversity of colours, blends and prints the brand aims to distinguish itself from its denim competitors.

Admirers

Current/Elliot is a luxury denim brand that operates in the mid to upper market, targeting young urban women, aged 18-30. Numerous

of young celebrities have been seen wearing the brand. This can be related to the fact that the brand originally started with customizing vintage denim, especially for celebrities. These young urban women desire fresh denim and are willing to spend more money on it.

Correspondence

The brand is sold in 55 countries worldwide, through multi-brand stores and shop in shops. To make the brand more accessible, products are sold through international highend online stores such as Net-A-Porter, My Wardrobe and Farfetch. Current/Elliot has one ﬂagship store in Los Angeles and the brand aspires to open more stores, starting in the USA.

Milieu

Current/Elliot presents itself as authentic, yet modern. According to the brand vintage is cool again. The retail environment of the brand can be described as feminine and soft. The femininity and softness go hand in hand with the core values. The vintage touch of the

brand is also communicated visually: models used in the ad campaigns are often girly girls with a modest appeal, they are not screaming for attention. The Logo refers to the present and the past, since the font is clean and modern but the background appears to be old paper.

Dreams

Introducing a new denim concept in fashion, the brand aims to produce a collection entirely crafted of denim. The main focus is still creating beautifully tailored products and environmental issues have not yet been discussed by the brand. Taking a modern approach to the American classics, Current/ Elliot seeks to exceed traditional denim trends. Current/Elliot is young, trendy and constantly inspired by the past yet it always seeks to look to the future.

J BRAND

Essential ingredients Vision: Creating style that excites your life. Mission: Passionately creating classic and timeless jeans in which women look and feel beautiful. Secret Ingredient: J Brand re-invented the Skinny Jeans. Price range: €140 – 800 Retail Environment: Fit, Elegance, Slim , Contouring, Timeless

The Good Old Days

Founded in 2004 by Jeff Rudes, J Brand started with the aspiration to design sophisticated jeans that ﬁt so perfectly that it follows the contours of the body. The brand found instant success through the introduction of its women’s dark washed ‘Skinny Jean’.

Big Ideas

The brand wants to create a timeless style that excites people’s lives. Making women look and feel beautiful in her jeans is something the brand strives for. All this is done by the J Brand principles; driven by passion. With these successful ingredients, and paying careful attention to details and clean, dark ﬁnishes, J Brand has over the years achieved a winning combination of style, comfort and a little sexiness in the denim world.

Creations

Aspiring to continue to be the inventive company it are, J Brand’s Jeff Rudes says, “In an exceedingly competitive market, one of our greatest obstacles was being able to go beyond what we are known for – the skinny jean – and deliver the next trend”. Such initiatives include; seasonal denim collaborations with famed designers like Proenza Schouler and Hussein Chalayan, a denim line with unique washes sold only to the ﬁnest specialty stores and boutiques. The next goal after making the skinny jeans such a success was to introduce the bell bottom. This is something J Brand calls ‘the love story’. Another strategy J Brand focused on and eventually had success with, was in closing the gap of jeans being dressed up or dressed down. Looking at J Brand, it is hard to imagine that jeans were originally designed for the US Army as simple, rough pants. Now the idea of jeans being something elegant and feminine is made possible by brands like J Brand.

Admirers

J Brand takes its customers into account when it comes to designing. After winning the Los Angeles Fashion Awards ‘’Denim Designer of the year”, J Brand announced their J Brand Blue Label. This features a new ﬁt for the curvier woman. This line was created to meet the market demand for an alternative to the brand’s existing ﬁt. Blue Fit is created with a more generous cut around the leg, as well as a contoured waistband to ‘hug’ the natural curves of one’s body. Blue bell was born out of the consumers needs.

Correspondence

The brand’s advertisements are communication in it’s simplest form; letting a jeans brand be truly about the jeans. This is what J Brand seeks to achieve. The simplicity of the surrounding set gives the jeans the opportunity to be the star of the campaigns.

Milieu

J Brand is currently sold in 2000 stores in over 20 countries worldwide. Where the

brand is sold differs from small boutiques to big specialty stores like Bergdorf Goodman in New York. The brand does not own its own retail store; Instead it has online shopping. This environment is basic, clean and straight to the point. Offering customer services by means of free shipping and easy returns, J brand seeks to offer a personal touch, something that some argue they miss while shopping online.

Dreams

Since 2008 the brand not only lays its focus on their women’s wear, but also added a men’s line to their collections. This line reﬂects the masculine modern basics, with a dash of vintage sensibility and classic craftsmanship. However, the main focus still remains the women’s part of the company. Remaining true and authentic to the customer, while being inventive at the same time by delivering original designs and collaborations, J Brand aspires to continue to be a rapidly growing industry leader and purveyor in the denim market.

FORNARINA Essential ingredients Vision: Change is a good thing Mission: A Fashion Company should always be a pacesetter Secret Ingredient: The brand has its own “Fornarina Art Lab” where fashion and art are combined. Price Range: € 50 – 150 Retail taste: Highly designed, artistic, youthful, glamorous

The Good Old Days

Fornarina, which is part of the Italian Fornari Company, was founded in 1947. The brand’s focus was style research and product innovation. During the nineties the brand got a more athletic style; the clothing line combined street couture with innovative features in the design. In the clothing range the jeans collections have always been the key category.

Big Ideas

The core values of the brand are femininity, sophistication and elegant ﬁts which are always underlined by the vivid colour Magenta. Fornarina is known for experimenting with a unique twist. The brand states that “their world has never been grey. On the contrary, it has always been lively and brilliant.”

Creations

Fornarina jeans are designed according to these values through the “Fabulous Legs” concept which stands for feminine and seductive denim. The jeans are made of high quality fabrics and contain stitches that show the feminine silhouette and create a perfect ﬁt. Fornarina stays innovative with its jeans in terms of washes and applications.

Admirers

The brand focuses on the young contemporary and conﬁdent women who are not afraid to show what they are made of. Their age is between 16 and 26.

Correspondence

To reach the consumers Fornarina uses a very wide variety of communication strategies. The brand’s specialty is online communication. In addition to the website the brand also has a youtube channel; the “Fornarina Tv Channel”. The brand also has several accounts on Facebook, Twitter and even on Pinterest where they share their inspiration, smartphone

apps and ad-campaigns with unknown models or celebrities such as Lindsay Lohan. In order to reach a wider range of consumers the brand has been divided into three segments; Fornarina, Fornarina Jeans and Fornarina Sportsglam. These are three distinct lifestyle concepts that are still true to the brand’s image, but connect to a wider consumer range. This results in a brand that offers a variety of products,(online) communications and events.

Milieu

The Fornarina stores also make up a large part of the brand’s communication strategy. In the stores art, architecture and fashion are being combined. The brand’s Las Vegas store received the prestigious “Store of the Year 2004” award and has now become part of the permanent collection exhibited at the Chicago Athenaeum International Museum of Architecture and Design. Fornarina is now running 35 monobrand stores and 40 shops in international department stores all over the world.

Dreams

Fornarina’s drive for experimentation and being a pacesetter led to the establishment of the Fornarina Art Lab in 2006. This artistic laboratory was founded with the purpose of exploring new ways and places for communication and establishing important connections between fashion and art. This has led to advertising with a contemporary language; combining music, art and new trends to interact with the current and coming zeitgeist. Through this ArtLab Fornarina’s aspiration is to keep on evolving and to avoid to be associated with high street stores.

BITTER

BITTER Feel the bitterness. Drink a cup of black coffee. Look intense. Think different. Live sober, not boring. Be nothing but yourself. Preach for modesty, honesty. Do not scream for attention but simply deserve it. Keep it cool. Keep it fresh. Be serious, be sharp. Wear your jeans until the bitter end. Bitter is amongst the most sensitive tastes. Its task is it to distinguish poisonous ingredients, which makes it an unpleasant experience to a big audience. Certain people desire the soberness of bitter taste however. This intensely bitter chapter selected the sharpest and strongest brands in existence that remain to be sober, severe and simple. Why? ACNE seeks to modestly create in all creative ﬁelds, Denham supports the personal producer, Dr. Denim as denim’s serious scientists and Glue Jeans offers you a mesmerizing new method. Make sure to seriously relish this chapter’s bitter aftertaste.

ACNE

Essential ingredients Vision: Fashion is much more than just clothing. Mission: Approaching design holistically by engaging themselves in different disciplines, rather than being known for just one discipline. Secret ingredient? ACNE is an acronym for the brand’s essence: “Ambition to Create Novel Expressions” Price range: €150 - 300 Retail Taste: Minimalistic, Sophisticated, Modern, Intelligent, Classical inﬂuences

Former Times

In 1996, an unknown Johnny Johansson made 100 pairs of jeans with red stitching for his friends and family. These unisex jeans turned out to be a huge success and formed the foundation of the clothing branch of ACNE. The idea was to create a lifestyle by producing desirable products in any category, nevertheless the fashion line is the most successful business.

Theory

With core values as modesty, honesty and unrestricted creativity the brand aspires to be nothing more than just itself. ACNE believes in focusing on its essence rather than relying on advertising. ACNE’s concept implies to interlink creative design, quality and sustainability: the brand approaches overall design, not limited to fashion because it aims to be known for a multitude of disciplines. Furthermore, the brand focuses on helping to start up brands by taking a supporting role in their communication.

Invention

Johnny Johansson’s take on the ﬁve-pocket jeans involves modernity in ﬁt and fabric, but sophistication and minimalism in style and washes.

The ﬁt is fundamental and a reason for the introduction of stretch in men’s jeans. The denim colour palette is generally white, black and blue. ACNE’s philosophy “fashion is much more than just clothing” is applicable to the actual designs; for Spring/Summer 2012 Johnny Johansson turned a jeans jacket into a jeans skirt. He goes beyond the logical function of clothes.

Followers

With the fashion and denim line, ACNE targets men and women, around 20-40 years old. The customer group is down-to-earth, modern and their interests expand beyond fashion. Coherent to the concept is ACNE’s untraditional market strategy, called “branding by doing”. This means that ACNE is defined by what they do and new customers are enticed without any money spent on marketing. ACNE has never paid for advertisement in fashion magazines; initially due to financial difficulties, nowadays as an elaborate marketing strategy. People feel the genuineness of the brand and desire to be part of ACNE’s brand identity.

Connection

With accounts on Facebook, Twitter and various websites for different target groups, ACNE has a large Internet information desk. These websites feature all of ACNE’s brand activities. The ACNE Family contains the fashion and denim site with men and women’s wear, the children’s site, the art department, the advertising department, the productions page and the ACNE paper online. ACNE paper is the brand’s biannual magazine; which is not only focused on fashion. All parts of the Acne family are represented including personal stories of the ACNE family in the paper. The magazine contains no advertisements and focuses on the noncommercial features.

Habitat

650 Stores in 45 countries sell ACNE jeans, as well as 10 mono-brand stores in Europe, New York and Australia. Next to these selling points it also has an extensive Internet shop. The actual retail environments are scaled down in size to narrow the focus down onto

the products, in coherence with ACNE’s concept to “focus on what you make, not what you say”. The interior of the shops is often a modern take on classic style, with sophisticated use of colour.

Objective

The brand aims to produce all commodities as responsibly as possible. ACNE cares about environmental issues and annually sets new guidelines and goals, which are veriﬁed by the Fair Wear Foundation. ACNE aspires to be a successful multi disciplinary company, creating a desirable lifestyle by cross-industry production of products in almost any category, from ﬁve pocket jeans to movies.

DENHAM

Essential ingredients Vision: With love for history and a passion for invention Denham believes in true denim craftsmanship. Mission: worship tradition. Destroy convention. Secret ingredient? There is a Denham Garment Library in the back of the store in Amsterdam with 15 years of research materials, used as an inspiration for the design process. Price range: €130 - 400 Retail taste: Modernistic, craftsmanship, rough minimalist, and clean rawness.

Former Times

Jason Denham established the brand Denham the Jeanmaker (actual name, not a variation of the word „denim“) in 2008. The ﬁrst shop, including a garment library was opened in the 9 streets district of Amsterdam. Utilizing everything he learned while working for different brands like Pepe Jeans and Tommy Hilﬁger, Jason Denham took his know-how and came up with something new and exclusive: Denham. A modern craftsmen label with the intent to change preconceptions of jeans.

Theory

The Denham mission states: “worship tradition, destroy convention”. Denham wants to keep up the tradition in the production process of jeans whilst adding a new twist. The brand gives the customer the possibility to customize the products in the stores. Another important element is the use of exclusive fabrics from Japan and Italy. These factors are where the price differences come from: the fabrics. Denham states that all jeans produced by the brand are absolutely of the same high quality, only the materials differ. This is what Denham is known for: consistently good quality.

Invention

What makes a jean a Denham is the back pocket; the signature seven point pocket. The seven points and the stitched scissor on the pocket make it an easily recognizable eyecatcher. Different styles, cuts and washings are offered, all featuring the specially designed pocket.

Followers

Denham’s target group is the upper segment of the luxury jeans market including both men and women between the ages of 20-50 with a mid to high income. They are characterized as a young and young minded tribe who are fashionable and part of a cool crowd who also tend to be creative.

Connection

The pair of scissors that Jason Denham cut his ﬁrst jean pattern with forms the characteristic logo of Denham. This logo can be seen throughout the branding. For example: the logo is stitched on the back pocket of the jeans, used as hangers in the stores, on the brand’s website, price tags and everywhere

the brand communicates. Denham is regularly featured in different magazine editorials but does not communicate with campaigns or advertisements. Instead the brand relies on word of mouth promotion.

Habitat

The appearance of the brand’s website reflects the look of the retail environment: clean but rough, minimalist and outspoken, craftsmanship meets modernist. Recently the brand has opened stores in Tokyo and London, another one will shortly be opened in New York. In addition to the mono brand stores the brand is sold in 250 concept stores and other retail locations around the world. The core of the brand, craftsmanship, is significant for the look of the retail environment. It is a mix of fine, pure and minimalistic interior with wooden, rough elements.

Objective

Denham is striving to enter the market where the major labels are the pace setters. With silent communication and high quality products, Denham is on its way.

DR. DENIM Essential ingredients Vision: Jeans are a noble science. Mission: We are making the perfect pair of jeans repeatedly by using scientiﬁc knowledge as our main input. Secret ingredient: The brand’s comprehensive obsession with jeans has led some to think the brand is geeky. Dr. Denim wears this tag with pride. Price range: €80 - 200. Retail-taste: Intelligent, Scandinavian Modern, Caring, Introvert, Scientiﬁc

Former Times

Dr. Denim Jeansmakers was founded in Sweden in 2003 by the Graah family. Creating jeans with scientiﬁc knowledge is the mindset of the brand. The brand offers a wide range of jeans produced according to Scandinavian design principles. Dr. Denim pays attention to the ﬁt and noticeable washes of the jeans. Hereby it tries to reach a broad target group.

Theory

Dr. Denim values its Scandinavian modernity and they seek to be intelligent and humorous. As the brand speaks: “Astronauts know space, mechanics know cars and Dr. Denim knows jeans.” Dr. Denim has savvy characteristics, which can be seen as intellectual. When talking to its audience, it compares the jeans often to science. This is noticeable in the metaphorically constructed sentences and in the tone of voice of Dr. Denim’s quotes. For example: ‘’Every big step in the history of Dr. Denim is combined with major temperatures. The sun beams down on the company like a spotlight - and that is no coincidence. It is science’’. The payoff of the brand is then: ‘ Jeans is science’’. The visual identity of the brand can be described as a contrasting and unconventional combination, included with nostalgia and realism.

IInvention

Dr. Denim epitomized the pair of jeans itself from a caring perspective. Herewith they stress that every stage in the production phase is equally important, meaning that from design to washing and producing, everything has to be in control for delivering a noble product. Its value for jeans even exceeds the production phase when the brand delivers a one-year guarantee for the purchase. Furthermore it makes the customer aware of potential damages or wrong use.

Followers

Operating and selling from a wide range of countries around the world, Dr. Denim appeals to various groups of consumers. The brand designs jeans at its own taste level trusting the audience to agree. Several groups are attracted to Dr. Denim since they know a decent pair of jeans when they see them. The actual consumer wearing Dr. Denim can be identiﬁed as ‘‘the Hipster’’. ‘‘The Hipster’’ seeks to avoid the mainstream, is into fashion and art and may be regarded as an early adopter. Dr.

denim does not sell its collections in monobrand stores, however the brand sells in multibrand stores.

Connection

Communication-wise Dr. Denim is subtle, although they do have a recognizable style of advertising. In addition the brand has its own Facebook page and an inspiring blog. To keep the Dr. Denim’s audience posted about happenings and inspiration from the brand, Dr. Denim created its own blog. With this medium the brand tries to show the consumer what is interesting and what forms the inspiration for the products.

Habitat

As Dr. Denim does not work with monobrand stores, the retail environment can only be observed on the website and in its visual communication. The brand’s logo says ‘’a matter of life and denim’’, perfect phrasing according to the brand. This refers both the ‘’Dr.’’ part of the brand name as well as the scientiﬁc and the caring aspect of the brand,

because taking care is the heart of the brand. In both advertising campaigns as well as in its products the brand works with an excessive attention for the senses. To explain this, the company’s view is that a pair of jeans is well produced when it is completely silent or when it makes a lot of noise. The sound, or silence, of the product is added intentionally. In the brand’s view jeans are made by all the senses, for all the senses.

Objective

Coherent with the scientiﬁc mindset of the Swedish brand, its aspirations are fairly suitable. Twisting and turning every single atom of all the jeans, Dr. Denim aspires to be the brand, which makes the perfect jeans.

GLUEJEANS Essential ingredients Vision: We aim for innovation with style. Mission: Every design embodies a twist to existing products, thus creating new classics. Secret ingredient: The jeans are made without one single stitch or a sewing machine. Price: €270 - 320 Retail taste: Artistic, Clean, Sophisticated, Aesthetic, Conceptual

Former Times

In 2005 two Dutch designers called Gerrit Uittenbogaard and Natasha Martens started the development and prototyping of an entirely new concept; the first pair of Gluejeans. The brand was first presented at New York Fashion Week and officially launched in 2008 when the first Gluejeans was presented. Due to the brand’s highly distinctive and innovative way of designing Gluejeans was awarded with the Dutch Design Award for best fashion product in 2008.

Theory

With its outstanding graphic and rough look, Gluejeans technique radiates a simple and direct quality together with a unique character. The brand’s uniqueness comes from the fact that every single piece is handmade in a small production studio called ‘OZ’ in Amsterdam. At ﬁrst, it is hard to notice the difference between a regular pair of jeans and Gluejeans, but a closer look reveals their distinguishing qualities. The brand develops their own fabrics and the jeans are made without one single stitch or a sewing machine. Instead of thread, glue is used to connect the loose piecesof fabric. This all together creates the brands image that is distinctive and known for individual expression.

Invention

As the mission states: “Every design embodies a twist to existing products, thus creating new classics”. Gluejeans aims for good quality and durability. Therefore the jeans were tested for two years before they were released. The brand presents new products only when a new idea is completely developed. Its products are strongly interlinked with the bitter core values. The design of the jeans can be seen as conservative because the brands collection does not change too often. This is what makes the brand unique for its buyers and keeps it true to its mission. In addition to the production methods the ﬁt of the jeans is also of high relevance; every piece is handmade and customized to the buyer’s size. The look of the jeans is pure, sober and conservative, even though the concept and the pigmented glue are innovative.

Followers

Gluejeans’ target group consists of young urban men and women who want to stand out and can afford to pay for something unique.

The brand aspires to be a creative design brand. To reach a wider audience Glue jeans came up with a black edition. Black Abbatis jeans with lower crotch, heavy tapered extra long legs and zip ﬂy. The black edition can be seen as a more classic and casual approach of the jeans.

Connection

The brand’s advertising and communication sums up the brands concept of being unique. It does not focus on the mainstream and therefore Gluejeans can be anonymous for people who do not know the brand. The brand has an own website and recently also a showroom in Amsterdam. Since the establishment of the brand, some changes have been made. The brand now focuses more on a wider distribution; the designers also visit other shops to sell Gluejeans and create awareness. Habitat Gluejeans are available at two different stores; either DROOG Amsterdam or Mint London. DROOG is an Amsterdam-based organization originally formed to promote

the works of young, Dutch designers. The retail environment of DROOG can be seen as an artistic, clean and modern space. The concept of the brand suits the buyers’ environment, since the brand aspires to be seen as a high end and artistic design brand. Besides these stores the jeans are available at the brands’ own web shop.

Objective

Gluejeans disputes itself by using different pigments of glue and each glue line is slightly different. For the new collection, the glue technique has been further developed. Next to this, a new sustainable lactase enzyme is used to bleach the denim at 30 degrees Celsius. The brand aspires to expand their distribution and keep provoking the consumer in order to make the product more tangible for its audience.

SOUR

SOUR Make a sour face. Make a loud statement. Make yourself heard. Make yourself seen. Demand recognition, command attention, exude conﬁdence! Claim a space, a position, a name, a calling, fame, freedom, youth! Or just wear a pair of sour jeans. Sourness, just like bitterness, belongs to the group of aversive tastes. Hence it is not cherished by a large group. Sharp acids are detected by our sensors when categorizing it as sour taste. This chapter comprises of the culturally corresponding, coincidentally yet carefully chosen charismatic brands that make up for this especially sour chapter. Why? Levi’s with its long loud lucrative history, Cheap Monday’s many mischievous mimicry models, Pepe Jeans London pulling for the Pop of the Isle of the buzzing Brits and Diesel with its daring darling indisputably different decoctions. Do enjoy this satiating sour section.

LEVI’S

Essential ingredients Vision: We believe that with the right principles anyone can change the world. Mission: By giving value we strive to give people inspiration to keep on trying and pursuing their goals. Secret Ingredient: Levi’s jeans were originally produced in only three sizes and the method of “breaking them in´ was for the wearer to jump into water while wearing them to create the perfect ﬁt. This method still remains the same today. Price range: €80 - 130 Retail taste: nature, industrial, vintage, heritage, sustainable

Past Experiences

Levi’s has been one of the leading denim brands ever since it created and patented the world’s ﬁrst blue jeans in 1873. The iconic ‘501’ jeans from the 1890’s have set the standard of classic jeans and are known as one of the highest selling items of clothing in the history of apparel. In the 1920’s, Levi’s was mostly a brand appealing to the working people in the USA. However, in the 1950’s and 60’s it became popular among many youth subcultures, making jeans a symbol of youth, which they still remain today.

Approach

The company tries to encourage young generations to go forth, make a change and shape the world. Levi’s core values, empathy, originality, integrity and courage seem to be very subdued compared to the youth subcultures that the brand is addressing, and portraying itself as a daring, provocative and change-driven brand. Levi’s´ focus is innovation combined with tradition. The brand is constantly upgrading its brand concept, from developing a sustainable Less Water Jeans, to embracing human differences with its Curve ID line; all these ideas lean on Levi’s long lasting heritage.

Output

The brand offers several styles of jeans within different collections – from traditional straight fit, skinny, super skinny, boot cut and comfort fit to its new Curve ID line presenting slight curve, demi curve and bold curve jeans. Levi’s is, however, still best known for its ‘501’original fit and ‘501’shrink-to-fit which were the brand’s first jeans models.

and Instagram. he company’s jeans collection and accessories are sold in more than 1500 shops in 110 countries through a combination of chain retailers, department stores, online sites, and franchised and company-owned stores, with the majority of them being situated in Europe and the USA.

Supporters

Domain

Expression

Pursuits

The brand targets “individuals from around the world who go forth every day with a sense of purpose and an open heart”. Targeting mostly teenagers and young adults, aged from 15 to 25, their strongest message is that young people can change the world. The brand presents different collections addressed to different sub-segments in the youth market. Levi’s is widely present in several medias such as television, magazines, billboards and banners. However, it also has a well organized and managed website and blog and is very active on social networks such as Facebook

Levi’s retail environment look is closely linked to their heritage and current trends. The shops use a lot of natural materials; including wood, leather and metal, often matched with vintage items and furniture. Those elements, along with the industrial look and feel, reinforce the brand’s commitment to sustainability and craftsmanship. The brand corresponds to current trends and includes them in their concept. Levi’s has put a big focus on heritage with its Vintage Renewed collection as well as on sustainability with its Waste<Less and Water<Less collections. The brand is also trying to ﬁnd ways to teach

consumers how to reduce the environmental impact of their products. Levi’s aspires to remain at the leading edge of the denim market with it being positioned in the minds of the consumers as an old brand with new ideas. The brand aims to put the needs of individuals on the same level as those of the organization and continue living up its motto “Levi’s Is People”.

CHEAP MONDAY Essential ingredients Vision: Life is about being daring and takings risks. Mission: We’re not over-thinking, we’re just doing. Secret ingredient: Cheap Monday only produces tight ﬁtting jeans. Price Range: €50 – 70 Retail taste: Geometrical shapes, dark, industrial, metallic, noisy

Past Experiences

Cheap Monday with its unmistakable skull logo entered the market in 2004. Founded in Sweden the brand was established as an alternative for people who wanted fashionable yet affordable jeans.

Approach

The brand’s philosophy consists of values which guide its actions. The values were and still are about being brave, taking initiative and choosing your own path. Each year the brand wants to push its boundaries and continue to develop.

Output

Despite the fast growth of the company, the original idea still remains the same: to offer customers pieces that compete with high-end brands both in attitude and fashion-level as well as in quality, however always at an affordable price. The unwashed, very tight ﬁtted stretch jeans, characterised by the skull logo have been the bran’s trademark for years. Although these signature jeans did not change much over the years, production is still reaching new levels in pieces as well as in product range. Supporters Cheap Monday could be seen as slightly rebellious brand which attracts a speciﬁc audience. Its characteristic style of “tight” jeans and the relatively cheap price appeals to a young and careless target group consisting of youngsters aged 1525.

Expression

The brand connects with its followers through social media and several marketing events, such as launch parties. Consumers are regarded as a part of the Cheap Monday family in a sense that they are invited to share their stories and thoughts on the cheap Monday Facebook. This has been a huge success referring to the fact that the brand does not use traditional marketing; No ad-campaigns or anything similar. Its approach is to try and gain more with less. This minimal marketing and word of mouth advertising has made the brand grow immensely in the past couple of years. Cheap Monday stores can be found in more than 35 countries around the world. The jeans can be found in about 1800 stores. The brand is a part of Weekday Brands, a subsidiary in the group of Fabric Scandinavian AB owned by Hennes & Mauritz. The collection can be found mostly in multi-brand stores, but also in a few mono-brand stores. The brand has recently collaborated with Reebok to create a shoe line.

Domain

The Cheap Monday stores are characterised by geometrical shapes and a metallic and raucous interiors which creates a dark and industrial feeling. Most stores are designed by the Swedish architect and design ﬁrm Uglycute who are masters in experimenting and portraying the right Cheap Monday feeling. Its iconic Swedish minimalistic approach with the use of rough metallic materials portrays the rebellious and tough atmosphere.

Pursuits

Currently Cheap Monday is working on a concept called “Customized by Nature” which involves the laying down of actual jeans in three different areas of Sweden for a certain period of time. This results in how the jeans are “worn” by nature and different weather conditions. The brand aspires to sell limited editions of these jeans in its stores. As every brand nowadays wants to be eco-friendly and as ‘natural’ as possible, cheap Monday puts a twist on it. It actually works with the nature and sees what it does with its products, not the other way around.Even in this case the brand differentiates from others.

Cheap Monday is a prime example of pushing boundaries using edginess and rebelliousness to its advantage. Its goal is to be in step with the times, but always with a distinctive twist.

PEPE JEANS LONDON Essential ingredients Vision: Fashion is deﬁned by its ability to evolve, excite and create trends at breakneck speed. Mission: We produce great products and good value for money. Price range: € 70 – 120 Secret ingredient: Pepe Jeans London is Red Bull Formula 1’s main sponsor, as the brands share same core values of being energetic, youthful and dynamic. Retail taste: Urban, vintage, youthful, rough, creative.

Past Experiences

In 1973 three brothers decided to start producing customize jeans. Starting out by selling jeans from a market stall in London, Pepe Jeans developed into one of the leading brands in the denim market today. The brand’s success derives from staying true to its designs, the quality of the fabrics and the different ﬁnishes.

Approach

A ground rule for Pepe Jeans London is being devoted to the quality of its denim. The brand believes that fashion is able to construct, stimulate and develop trends in a short amount of time. Furthermore Pepe Jeans values the youth, its energy and rebelliousness. Its concept is to create dynamic denim and daring new fashion. In a time period that is determined by traditionalism, Pepe Jeans London is vastly driven to be a dominator on the denim market. The brand not only desires to be the best, but particularly to be ﬁrst. As the brand conﬁrms; “Pepe Jeans London remains at the front of the fashion pack with a winning formula based on the ability to deliver the strongest denim-led fashion in the market.”

Output

The brand creates jeans with innovative cutting methods and hand ﬁnished details for which it aims to have a sexy shape using speciﬁc washing techniques. Slim and straight cuts dominate both the men en women’s denim collections.

Supporters

Pepe Jeans London targets urban youngsters; children, teenagers and young adults from the age of 10-25 who are aware of the latest trends and share common interest in both music and sports.

Expression

The youngsters are enticed by the brand’s creative advertising campaigns that, according to the brand appeal to the audience in a sexy and engaging way. Furthermore Pepe Jeans London presents a daring attitude of the urban London lifestyle on the websites and blogs the brand keeps. On these sites, certain styles are advised for the summer festivals, mostly to attract the youngsters. The brand is also

active on social media websites such as Facebook and Twitter. Pepe Jeans London can be regarded, as the brand says, as conquering the world: the brand has expanded its denim supplies to all ﬁve continents. The brand sells its products in more than 60 countries spread over all continents and has more than 300 mono-brand stores. The brand is sold on the Internet on Pepe Jeans London’s own website, as well as on the websites of multi-brand-stores.

Domain

The stores of Pepe Jeans have an urban shaped environment with brick or rough wood covered walls. The interior has a vintage style and the ‘Made in England’ characteristic is clearly visible. Both the Union Flag as a whole as well as its red, white and blue colors are present in the interiors of various Pepe Jeans London ﬂagship stores.

Pursuits

The brand is committed to society and therefore participates actively in various non-proﬁt organizations that provide help to countries such as Kenya, Cambodia and Haiti. Pepe Jeans London decided to do this in order to evoke both positive energy as well as attention for the brand. As one of the key players in the denim market Pepe Jeans London desires to continue its growth. This goes hand in hand with the brand’s statement: “Fashion is clearly about knowing how to evolve”. Pepe Jeans London desires to continue its expansion trail in the future.

DIESEL Essential ingredients Vision: This world is only for the Brave

Past Experiences

Mission: To create for independent people who follow their own unique path

Approach

Secret Ingredient: Diesel was recently ranked #15 among luxury brands worldwide, above brands such as Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Price range: € 130 – 240 Retail taste: Ironic wit, cultural consciousness, urban carelessness

The Italian brand Diesel was founded in 1978 by Renzo Rosso who is still today the president of the company. The essence of the brand is as the slogan states “for successful living”. This statements holds the core values of the brand; it provides the means to live a successful life in terms of a urban, careless and hedonistic existence. These values are highly relevant to the brand’s newest campaign; Hedonistic pleasure. What Diesel is most known for is the way the brand advertises by focusing on speciﬁc campaigns. Each campaign has a storyline that is supported by a campaign speciﬁc website. Diesel doesn’t so much advertise clothing as create scenarios which is what the brand is known for. In the past the campaigns have been considered very controversial which has made the brand gain a very strong status as a brand to watch. Consumers have learned to expect that instead of only presenting a new line every 6 months the brand also has a new message.

Output

In terms of the product the look is more relevant than the visibility of a label. Diesel does not use large distinctive logos, the idea is that the clothes are worn by people who want to stand out for their style, not the brand. Therefore the clothing is fashionably edgy and attention claiming.

Supporters

Diesel is aimed at a youthful target group who in one word could be described as cool. One of the most powerful marketing tools the brand utilizes is acknowledging the irony of the term cool which is why the marketing works so well. The brand aims to portray that the Diesel tribe is the cool urban youth who is culturally conscious, sexy and care free.

Expression

Diesel aims to advertise more and more only in niche publications in order to reach the consumers that consider themselves too cool for mainstream. Alongside with print ads the brand also relies heavily on their websites

(both the regular website as well as campaign speciďŹ c ones). This is because consumers nowadays gain a major part of their information online.

Domain

Sold in nearly 70 countries and with extensive coverage online Diesel is one of the most recognizable jeans brands. The brand now aims to start limiting its output to stores owned by the brand as opposed to multi brand outlets. This way the branding can be controlled more tightly as well as the way the consumer experiences the brand. This is because the shop interiors are of increasing relevance; they are purposefully plain (most of the time white) in order to smoothly work as platforms for the rapidly changing campaigns.

Pursuits

Dieselâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ongoing search for cool combined with witty marketing has lead the brand to experience double digit growth. The memorable campaigns have lead the brand to being one of the pace setters of the jeans industry.

SALTY

SALTY The taste of skin on a hot day. The taste of sweat on your skin. The sting in an open wound. Feel close to the earth, the rugged ground under your feet. Fear nothing, be tenacious. You may dehydrate or feel overwhelmed but this is part of life; part of accepting what we were intended to do – be one with nature. There is only one way; wear salty jeans. Saltiness, classiﬁed by salt ions, is very dominant, hence can overpower other tastes easily. It is part of the appetitive tastes, together with sweetness, and serves as a power booster. Welcome to the outdoors. To the world of the raw, the rough and the unreﬁned. The following brands have been handpicked for the hot and heavy, not for the faint-hearted. Why? Lee with its authentic antiquity. Wrangler with it masculine audacity. Nudie Jeans with its second skin organic occupancy. G-star with its indestructible, industrial and indelicate approach. For these brands, it is about the core of denim. They’re tough, but go ahead and dig in.

LEE

Essential ingredients Vision: We believe comfort is everything. Mission: We want to create comfortable clothes for work and play. Secret Ingredient: In 1926 Lee was the ﬁrst to introduce a ﬂy zipper on a pair of jeans. Price range: € 90 - 115 Retail taste: traditional, functional, classic, comfortable, American Desert

Past

Lee Jeans was founded in 1889 by Henry David Lee; it was one of the first ever jeans brands in the industry. The brand’s first garment factory, producing dungarees and jackets, was opened in Salina, Kansas. The foundation for Lee’s early growth was the first-ever ‘ overall’’ in 1920. In the 20’s Lee also developed the first fly zipper on a pair of jeans, replacing buttons with this new closing method. Another branding strategy in the 20’s was the Buddy Lee doll, which became a popular play doll and is still a collector’s item today. In 1950 Lee ventured into casual wear, which was an intense expansion for the company, and throughout the 60’s Lee expanded internationally spreading to 51 countries and consolidating with VF Corporation.

DNA

The brand continued to expand its fashion collections throughout the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, launching Lee National Denim Day in 1996. Today Lee is all about bringing more fits, styles, finishes, features and choices with the old time classic feeling on the market. The brand’s main focus has always been comfort and this still remains Lee’s core value. After crafting denim for over a century Lee discovered the importance of the fit of a jean. The brand went from work wear to pop culture in 1954. Today Lee uses different themes and the latest important theme in the Lee identity was Sex and Movement. “Move your Lee, your body is the language” is this theme’s slogan.

The Jeans

Aside from the themes Lee has different approaches to keep the brand current, but still with the original characteristics. For example: designing a reinterpreted version of the original jeans, collaborating with the Art director of Dior Homme to uncover the elegance of work wear and Lee’s new collection is inspired by the American grounds; ﬁeld, country and ranch.

Tough Lovers

Lee’s target audience used to be the workers, yet has now developed into a wide range of consumers. In 1994 Lee started sub-branding to target individual markets such as Lee Pipes for boys aged 8-12, Riveted for women aged 25-35 and Lee Dungarees for young men aged 17-21.

The Insides

The new international store concept called ‘The Lee Black System’ is visible in all the stores worldwide. The store features an all-black MDF (medium density ﬁberboard) interior matched with a vintage American look that gives the retail space authenticity. Using natural materials

such as mahogany wooden storage systems helps to create an authentic atmosphere. Lee stores can be found in the USA, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Berlin, Cologne, London and Paris.

Dialect

Lee is still headquartered in Merriam, Kansas. VF Corporation, which is its parent company, is the largest apparel company in the world that sells jeans wear, outdoor products, image apparel and sportswear. Lee Jeans spends more than €30 million per year on promotion and advertising within the USA. In 2009, the brand’s website was redesigned by the lead interactive agency Olson, and Arnold Worldwide is responsible for the offline advertising services. On the Lee website you first have to select where you are from and then you get access to the Lee website and web shop. The store locator allows the consumer and viewer to spot the availability of the brand worldwide and where Lee might have official stores or sell their collection in multi-brand stores.

We’ve Got the Future Covered.

Lee National Denim Day is a part of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. To help fund breast cancer research programs, Lee has raised over €57 million working with the Entertainment Industry foundation. Even though Lee is one of the biggest and longest existing jeans brands, the core value of the brand always remains the same; comfort. This season Lee collaborated with the Art director of Dior Homme to uncover the elegance of work wear, which is a mixture of the authentic Lee denim with modern sophistication. Using work wear cotton twill, the original Lee Rider jacket, the work blazer and the zip-ﬂy jeans, Kris Van Assche reinterprets the iconic pieces of Lee created in 1926.

WRANGLER Essential ingredients Vision: Enduring American freedom around the globe; it is in the spirit of people who work hard, have fun and recognize courageous individuality. Mission: Practicing what we preach by truly living the American western lifestyle. Price Range: €30 - 120 Secret Ingredient: Wrangler jeans originally existed only for men. Retail Taste: Sympathetic, Western, Comfortable, Tough, outdoorsy.

Past

Wrangler Jeans, now owned by the VF Corporation, was founded in 1904 as a Blue Bell overall jeans company that speciﬁcally designed jeans for western rodeo contests. This name came from rodeo men liking the jeans to such an extent that they presented the indigo blue overall jeans with a bell, as a sign of appreciation. The Blue Bell overall company grew into the Wrangler Jeans we know today in 1943 and thereafter introduced the Wrangler western jeans.

DNA

Despite the fact that Wrangler cares about its heritage, the brand underwent a somewhat radical transition. In order to reach more potential consumers worldwide the brand dropped its western cowboy image. With the ‘We are animals’ advertising campaign Wrangler’s new strategic and creative team aimed to re-invent the brand to some extent. This is Wrangler’s new way of working: combining the brand’s heritage with modern society.

The Jeans

According to the brand, quality is never an accident. Wrangler believes quality is a result of intelligence, combined with the will to produce outstanding products. The amount of detail put into their jeans is something that sets the brand apart from others. Relating the clothing to the personality of the wearer, Wrangler aspires to let the wearer’s character, style, spirit and energy stand out. To keep up with today’s society and to keep the female customers interested, Wrangler is currently working on moisturizing jeans, which moisturize the legs while they are worn and reduce cellulite.

Tough Lovers

The brand’s target group is a customer who likes to experiment with fashion and values good craftsmanship. These consumers can be deﬁned as the ‘everyman’. Wrangler does not try to emphasize on trendiness, instead, the brand focuses on the qualities of the jeans; comfort, toughness and lasting quality. Therefore, the people in this target group are male or female and between the ages of 18 and 60. Wrangler’s branding varies on different continents. In the USA their customers comprise of mostly the adolescent ‘western

cowboys’, where as in Europe Wrangler appeals to a trendier and younger generation.

Dialect

Distributing online and throughout stores worldwide, Wrangler is a very mature company. What started out with only jeans evolved into a vast assortment of clothing and accessories. The brand offers clothing for men, women and children. Wrangler’s broad audience is reached through the Internet, printed catalogues, advertisements and social media.

The Insides

Wranglers’ shop interiors reﬂect American heritage in an industrial, factorystyle, and tough way. Thus, its stores represent an old fashion ‘workshop ofﬁce’ combined with a contemporary twist.

We’ve Got the Future Covered Offering high quality, intelligent products made with care and righteousness, Wrangler aspires to promote the American Dream around the globe. The brand strives to let everyone enjoy this comfortable lifestyle that the rodeo cowboys once had but with a raw,

modern twist. With their core values being honesty, consideration and respect, Wrangler believes integrity never goes out of style.

NUDIE JEANS CO Essential ingredients Vision: We believe in the naked truth about denim. Mission: We offer a way of thinking, a concept, and an undying passion, fuelled by the traditions of denim and the characteristics of the fabric itself. Secret Ingredient: Nudie Jeans reached their goal to produce a 100% organic denim collection for the ﬁrst time for FW12. Prices: €99 – 180 Organic jeans are priced between €250 – 400. Retail taste: Organic, Raw, Personal, Down to Earth, Sustainable

Past

DNA

The Jeans

Offering a wide collection, Nudie is most popular for its ‘Dry Denim’. The raw denim is dipped in indigo dye and remains unwashed after the process. The consumer is asked not to wash the denim for six months, as the denim will develop its own character. This personal touch to the product is crucial to Nudie’s approach. The brand focuses its attention on the sustainable, innovative and especially personalised denim product.

Tough Lovers

Nudie attracts denim-lovers who care about social and environmental responsibility and like to wear jeans all day, every day. The brand aims to breathe intelligence and awareness into their consumers through different methods of communication. This appeals to a well-educated target group with a higher income. When it comes to the real Nudie-lover, age is not a factor.

Dialect

‘We do not burn money on advertising, but we love storytelling.’ This quote describes Nudie’s method of communication. Through its own

website, YouTube-channel, social media accounts and campaigns, it communicates one strong message to the target group; the ecologically friendly production process of the jeans. Nudie Jeans targets its audience in two ways; the ﬁrst being through a platform called mynudies.com where consumers can communicate directly with the brand. It allows them to give feedback, ask questions or upload photos of their own personal Nudie jeans. With more than 1000 stores in 22 countries, Nudie is still rising today. In the Netherlands, Nudie is only sold in multi-brand stores, whereas in the USA and in Sweden the brand has its own mono-brand stores.

The Insides

The retail environment of Nudie represents its core values to the maximum; personal, raw, ecologically friendly and natural. With the use of old wooden ﬂoors, furniture and white walls with industrial accents everywhere, the stores evoke a feeling of nature and roughness with a masculine touch.

We’ve Got the Future Covered

Nudie Jeans develops its own organic

fabrics together with its suppliers, giving in to the environmental need of using organic cotton. With Nudie’s ‘Repair, Reuse, Reduce’ campaigns, the brand is aimed at a more sustainable consumption. To Nudie Jeans, organic cotton is not just a seasonal fashion trend. For the spring/ summer 2012 collection, 43% of the produced garments are made of organic cotton. Nudie’s aspiration and long-term goal is to raise the importance of and exclusively use organic cotton in all future collections.

G-STAR

Essential ingredients Vision: It is all about craftsmanship. Mission: Using the strong focus on design and production to turn our designs into classic denim creations. Secret ingredient: Military uniforms inﬂuence many of the G-Star designs, which also accounts for their rough and tough identity. Price range: €99 - 350 Retail taste: industrial, metal, minimalistic, tough, concrete.

Past

As innovators of materials, styles, and cuts, G-Star is an evergrowing Dutch denim pacesetter. Established in 1989, G-star’s philosophy is “Just the Product”; the focus is thus on the design and production of denim. This has made G-Star able to sell more than 20 million items annually, resulting in its success.

DNA

Alongside the brand’s “Just the Product” philosophy, its core value is craftsmanship. G-Star believes in focussing on the product and giving it a raw, rough and tough edginess. With its RAW denim concept being one of the main focuses of the brand to date, it serves as a platform for further growth. G-Star’s authentic military details and practical attributes are part of what gives it its strong identity; these factors form its luxury street wear look. The brand is known for its craftsmanship and this was further developed in 1996, when the RAW collection was launched. This collection consists of unwashed and untreated denim, allowing the consumer to mould the jeans into their own ﬁt.

Tough Lovers

Students and high-income consumers buy the G-Star collection; the style appeals to the masses. There are no particular consumers with speciﬁc demographics. G-Star’s use of young and trendy techniques, together with nostalgia and the zeitgeist make for a melting pot of consumers with a love for a relatively tenacious, indestructible look.

Dialect

G-Star’s communication and distribution varies widely, yet remains special. This, however, does not mean that the brand is not available worldwide. It simply means that G-Star has speciﬁc methods of communicating with its audience. Anton Corbijn is responsible for the rugged advertising campaigns; collaborating with up and coming celebrities. This in turn, covers a wide range of consumers and reactions by staying “cool”. Online communication and distribution is vital in order to appeal to all types of consumers – through Facebook, YouTube and other social media sites. The brand has a web store and also sells its products on other online fashion platforms. G-Star has more

than 2000 stores in which its collections are sold, these being multi-brand stores all over the USA and Europe. Recently, a ﬂagship store was opened on the high-end shopping street in Amsterdam; the P.C. Hooftstraat.

The Insides

G-Star’s coarse and industrial retail environment makes for its salty appearance. Its stores are coherent in every way and the collection’s colour palette come back in its minimalistic, heavy metal interiors. One can truly sense the industrialism through vintage and military interior décor. In spite of the sometimes-imperfect style, it is simultaneously well suited to the brand’s identity.

We’ve Got The Future Covered. Covering various areas of fashion forward trends, G-Star includes environmental friendliness, nostalgia and authenticity in its concept. The brand has adapted itself to the environmental need of using organic cotton with reduced fertilizers and pesticides. According to G-Star designers, the high level of comfort and design has, through

this, not been compromised in the least. Producing “democratic denim”, and having recently introduced 3D construction techniques in its production process allows G-Star to design the latest jeans wear. G-Star as a company has dreams and aspirations about turning its designs into classic denim creations. With its clear design strategy and identity, it is at the cutting edge of the fashion industry.

SPICY

Experience the burning sensation. Arouse a sexual desire. Learn to seduce. Feel the heat, sweltering on the tongue. Be dangerous. Please the sense of taste. No chance to allude this temptation. Grab on tight. This chapter will pull you into the spicy world of denim, with sharp brands which will fulfill your desire to be confident, sexy and sensational. Spiciness is actually not a taste but detected by pain fibres in our tongue. These fibres are usually excited by receptors responding to heat and affecting a burned feeling. Furthermore it increases our body temperature and appetite. Why? EVISU creates a perfect shape around each body, 7forallmankind has effortless sex appeal, True Religion seeks to be a powerful trendsetter and Guess enriches your life with glamour. A spice might be used to hide other flavours, but it is not the time to cover up. Show your secrets, be risqué and get excited by the lure of the perfect fitted jeans.

EVISU Essential ingredients Vision: We do not believe in renaissance, we believe in eternity. Mission: Our goal is to create an unchangeable style. Whenever and wherever, hollow trends come and go, but our jeans remain eternal. Secret ingredient: EVISU is a successful brand worldwide although the brand actually imitates Levi’s jeans. Price Range: €150 - 200 Retail taste: Eccentric, bold, playful, energetic and boyish

Passé

EVISU was founded in 1991 in Japan by Hidehiko Yamane. The brand was born with Yamane’s respect and attachment for vintage jeans.EVISU plays a pivotal role in the history of denim as a pioneer of the “Replica movement”. The focus of the brand is not imitation, but the interpretation of revival. It focuses on remaining true to its roots with high quality and authenticity, resulting in united products with a bold and unique design.

Magnetism

The philosophy of EVISU, “High quality builds an identity,” establishes its reputation as an original jeans brand instead of a replica brand. In order to pursue its high quality, the brand established its own factory instead of a toll manufactory. One of the unique characteristics of EVISU’s jeans is the fading of the denim which turns into greenish dark blue. Additionally the fabric is created according to a technique that shrinks the jeans when washing but that extends the size when wearing. This creates an original expression for every person who wears the jeans.

Design

Being unique and bold is part of the core values of EVISU. Not only is the brand’s name a parody on Levi’s, the brand also replicates Levi’s’ inspired design details in each pair of jeans. As a substitute to normal stitching on the pockets, the brand is recognized by a colourful seagull hand painting. The core brand identity of EVISU is to be daring, playful and unique which is recognizable in the distinctive design and the graphical language of bold and straight lines.

Devotees

The brand’s target audience is urban teenagers an¬¬d young adults who are aged between 16-30. These people have a broad range of interests in various scenes. Today the EVISU jeans have become an iconic symbol in the Hip Hop scene, since the brand offers a mixture of sports and designer wear. Hence, the target group can be described active people with an interest in outdoor sports and modern, cultural arts.

Expression

The brand has chosen digital media advertisement as its main communication channel, mainly due to its young target group. Humour is a smart communication tool to reach the target audience; EVISU uses parodies to deal with the imitation issue.

Ambiance

Today EVISU is seen as a worldwide jeans brand since it owns around 85 stores spread across Asia, Europe, and the USA. The denim can also be purchased in various online shops. The brand, however, is still in a developing stage to reach the European and US market. The brand advances into overseas markets by collaborations with Peter Caplowe, an American who assures that the clothing is globally competitive and not limited to the Asian market. EVISU portrays an eccentric, original atmosphere and playfulness in its retail environment. The shop interior plays with contrasts: there are unique toys and decorations in bright colours, but at the same time the brand uses rich wooden material and

black as a base colour.

Desires

Although sustainability is highly valued by a multitude of brands nowadays, EVISU does not take this issue into account, nor does it incorporate this into its brand strategy. The brand does not consider environmental issues as signiﬁcant values to its target audience. Furthermore this decision is harmonious with EVISU’s core value of relentless quality. The consistency of this statement can be seen in the brand declining participation in sustainable events. EVISU is an iconic brand in urban culture that has impacted the premium denim industry. The fusion of replica, rebirth, and design proposes a new orientation established between the brand’s identity and products; as they call it “EVISU GENES.”

7 FOR ALL MANKIND Essential ingredients Vision: Denim strives for luxury. Mission: We create a foundation for individual expression that is effortless, sexy and sophisticated. Secret ingredient: 7 for all Mankind became a success over night thanks to Hollywood celebrities who were privately wearing the brand. Price Range: €150 - 400 Retail taste: sophisticated, Californian, modern elegance, luxurious

Passé

The Californian brand 7 for All Mankind was partially responsible for the rise of the premium denim market and has taken on a leading role since. Although the brand was established in 2000, it is already referred to as a “cult label”. With the help of Hollywood’s elite as wearers and sale boosters, the brand has changed the landscape of denim. Thus Los Angeles became the center for jeans with an attached superior lifestyle.

Magnetism

Using effortless sophistication and sex appeal, 7 for All Mankind creates a plateau for individual expression. This deﬁnes the brand’s view on luxury and the Los Angeles lifestyle for which the PR department uses celebrities as vivid demonstration. Everything is aligned to the fundamental principle of turning denim into an extraordinary high-end industry. The denim products are strongly interlinked with the spicy core values.

Design

Besides a broad variety in ﬁts, the claim to enhance every silhouette, the low-rise, tight-ﬁt skinny jeans is the brand’s pièce de resistance. Innovative and fashion-forward washes compel fashionistas and add extravagance to its assortment. The labeling is discreet, whereas the pocket stitching, with the signature squiggle, is eye-catching. Collaboration with luring designers, like Azzedine Alaia and Zac Posen help 7 for All Mankind in retaining its reputation in the market.

in a sophisticated, preferably Californian, environment. Print advertising is distributed across glossy fashion magazines to ensure communication with the right consumer group. Recently the brand has followed the future trend of digital branding with a series of online clips including currently trendy models, such as Lily Donaldson.

Ambiance

Devotees

The denim can be bought in mono brand stores at top addresses all around the world, which blends in with the brand’s concept. To expand its story of success, 7FAM (as often referred to) opened a store in the up market PC Hoofdstraat last winter. Other channels of distribution are high-end department stores and web shops, such as the company’s own and multiple upmarket online retailers.

Expression

The store interiors express the brand’s sophisticated and effortless values. This combined with the store location distinguishes the brand from the lower and mass denim market. The customer ﬁnds himself in a retail environment of modern elegance with pinches of luxury, visible in the neat placing of

7 for all Mankind mainly targets “It girls” and their aspirants, as they strive for overindulgence in their lives. Besides its core business the brand expanded the clothing line to men’sand children’s wear. An accessory line makes aspirers be part of the experience due to relatively affordable prices. The brand’s advertising sums up the concept well by featuring skinny-legged coquettes

the denim and use of exquisite materials such as zebrawood for the interior. Furthermore the brand took inspiration from the Californian architecture of the 1950s to keep the West Coast as a crucial part of its concept clearly visible in the shop.

Desires

The brand has highly beneﬁted from the era of celebrity culture in the early 2000s. However the zeitgeist is changing and individualism paired with the “celebration of the commoner” can serve as problems for the label. 7 For all Mankind aspires to deliver products with a sophisticated, luxurious lifestyle but needs to work on its branding to not be outshone by labels that suit the spirit of today.

TRUE RELIGION Essential ingredients Vision: It is all about the ﬁt. Mission: True Religion is made for and by people who do not follow trends, they set them. Secret ingredient: The brand is authentic and American-made. Price Range: €160 - 300 Retail taste: rough, vintage, natural, unreﬁned, eccentric

Passé

Working with the principles of high quality American-made denim with a timeless appeal and vintage aesthetics, True Religion was founded by Jeffrey Lubell in 2002. At ﬁrst he only made creations for himself until a shop in Los Angeles started to show interest and later on sold his designs. From producing only denim the brand grew into a globally successful high fashion brand with a broad range for men, women and children.

Magnetism

True Religion‘s values are all centred around the American Dream; freedom, authenticity and personality are the brand‘s characteristics. All this can be seen in the advertisements and campaigns that exude an undeniable feeling of America‘s rough countryside combined with a casual sexiness for both men and women. True Religion‘s core business is the jeans and with the acquisition of the private manufacturer and apparel company ‘Guru Denim Inc.’ the brand had the vision and the possibilities to expand. The brand, however, still has its main focus on denim.

Design

To create a unique look for the True Religion jeans, the brand uses several trademarks. The thick sewing thread that comes in a variety of colours is the most recognisable one. Furthermore the brand uses oversized hardware, washes and lock seams to create a rough and vintage appearance for the products. With an emphasis on the ﬁt, quality and style, the brand‘s goal is to make its customers feel conﬁdent in their jeans.

Devotees

The brand has a broad audience that consists of men, women and children, though the main target group is fashion-conscious and afﬂuent. The True Religion tribe is portrayed as people who do not follow trends but set them.

Expression

True Religion uses print advertisements as well as digital and social media to keep in touch with its customers. The emphasis in all advertising is based on the American free spirit.

Ambiance

Today the brand operates worldwide and its business can be divided into four segments: Consumer Direct, U.S. Wholesale, International and Licensing Business. The Consumer Direct segment currently contains about 90 branded shops in the USA plus e-commerce sales. This segment makes about 50% of the total net sales. The U.S Wholesale, which means all sales made from the approximately 800 multi-brand shops that market True Religion, makes a total of 30% of the company‘s net sales. International sales and the Licensing Business make up for 20%. The most important sales platform is the Consumer Direct segment. True Religion‘s retail environment sends out the same feeling the brand portrays itself in all its communication. Wood, steel and a vintage atmosphere is what distinguishes the shops. The ambiance the brand aims to convey in the shops is warm and distinctive. The brand aims for the customer to experience the collection in a country atmosphere that is increased by the use of both current and campaign imagery.

The brand uses the same style for its online shop which offers an advanced search method to ﬁnd the right size and model.

Desires

Although a huge part of Guess‘ products are made True Religion purchases premium denim from the Cone Mill, Greensboro, North Carolina - a company that plays an important role in the denim market as it now focuses on 100% organic, recycled denim and an environmentally friendly production process. True Religion not only focuses on becoming accessible to everyone, the brand also focuses on creating what they are good at and known for: American-made, high quality denim.

GUESS

Essential ingredients Essential ingredients Vision: Be a leader in Fashion with uncompromising quality and integrity. Mission: To listen, honour and respond to individual values. Secret ingredient: The world of GUESS: interactive and thoughtthrough online world Price Range: â&#x201A;Ź90 - 170 Retail taste: young, sexy, classic, sophisticated, vintage

PassĂŠ

Founded in 1981 by the French brothers Maurice & Paul Marciano, Guess is known for its innovative, sensuous and timeless denim empire. The brand has made itself known for its iconic advertisement campaigns. The Marciano brothers changed the perception of denim into a more sexy and adventurous one.

Magnetism

Guessâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; values are all about quality and loyalty. By focusing on a relatively small range of styles of jeans the company is able to assure a high quality throughout its production and is able to stay loyal to its customers - as they know what they buy. With this strategy Guess adds consistency and reliability to its core values.

Design

Guess‘ concept is about the sensual and glamorous yet classic and sophisticated lifestyle. Although the cuts and ﬁts have been the same for a long time, Guess constantly pushes the appearance of the denim fabrics to evolve. By creating new washes and distressing techniques the brand keeps the appearance of its jeans trend conscious and modern but with a characteristic expression. Besides the denim products, Guess also offers a broad range of apparel as well as accessories for men, women and children. However the core of the brand remains to be denim.

Devotees

The brand‘s main target group is the fashionconscious, sensuous and lively women. Therefore Guess uses iconic models like Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell in order to communicate with this target group.

Expression

With the brand‘s ﬁrm control of its image and licensing, Guess created a consistent and

distinctive brand image connected to a sexy lifestyle, which is easily recognisable. The brand‘s image is the most important source of its competitive advantage. It communicates sexiness, fun and fashionability. This plus the classic attitude, which is primary shown in its signature and black and white advertisement campaigns, is what deﬁnes the brand‘s image. Ambiance Guess is operating internationally with about 670 mono brand stores. 481 are located in the USA and 188 stores outside the USA. There are also 184 smaller concessions in both Europe and Asia. The wholesale distribution is spread all over the world and reaches from major department stores to regular shopping malls. Guess is also involved in the e-commerce sector. The brand’s image and values are represented in the retail environments. The young, sexy and sophisticated image is translated into both the shop interior and atmosphere. Red, black and white with golden details is what dominates Guess‘ retail environments. In

addition to the physical shop, the e-commerce is an important factor to the brand. The entire online presentation is designed as a highly informative, however an interactive platform. The customer is kept up to date about new collections and promotional events, but is also able to get an insight into Guess‘ heritage and current projects.

Desires

Although a huge part of Guess‘ products are made under license and not by the brand itself the quality is nevertheless high. It is very important for the brand that its customers are satisﬁed with the products. Guess is constantly pushing the limits with the combination of both European aesthetics and American fabrics.

YOUNG INDEPENDENTS

SINGLES

G-STAR

SALTY WRANGLER

NUDIE

LEE

CURRENT/ELLIOT J BRAND

SWEET CONCLUSION CHEAP MONDAY While the jeans brands try to target different taste groups the dominant target audience are young independents and singles. These groups share the characteristics of the stereotypical denim lifestyle, being free and not taking life too seriously. As jeans are a democratic garment, meaning unisex and ageless, there are big possibilities of targeting them to an audience that falls off this image. Seniors and young people with responsibility, like young families, are both crucial customers to the fashion industry. While there might be a few brands covering this increasing market they are still not sufďŹ -

LUCKY BRAND

cient, furthermore said brands are often not distinctive in taste. The problems lie within the way of communication with the consumers. Seniors do not necessarily want to be addressed as such, furthermore young families still want to be able to shop like their carefree friends. Branders need to ďŹ nd a way to clearly target them in an appropriate way. Hereby distinguishing a taste direction should not be forgotten, since seniors, for example, also alter in their lifestyle and therefore taste.

FORNARINA

YOUNG FAMILIES

SENIORS

TRUE RELIGION

DIESEL

7 FOR ALL MANKIND

SPICY

CHEAP MONDAY

SOUR

GUESS

PEPE JEANS LONDON LEVI’S GLUE JEANS DENHAM

BITTER DR DENIM ACNE

EVISU

Contributors

EDITORIAL TEAM Rosanne Heijligers Maria Backman Anna Lena Gรถtzmann Lara Jongejans Robin van der Aa Anne Salden

VISUALS TEAM Lete Hulscher Jasper Schrรถeder Lisa Oyabu Claudine Budel Stef Dunselman

LAYOUT TEAM Sharveen Koesal Milou Verhoeven Irena Krajnc Christopher Riedl Luna Michel

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Sources Visuals

Book cover originally made by the visuals team Jeans image,next to the table of contents made by the visuals team Cover and back cover of the booklets ( Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Spicy and Salty ) made by the visuals team Images next to the introduction of each booklet ( Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Spicy and Salty ) made by the visuals team. SALT

Salt introduction picture: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher, Stef Dunselman, Claudine Budel. Made 22nd October 2012. Jeans: Own photograph. Photographer: Lete Hulscher. Made October 25th 2012. SPICY.

Peppers introduction picture: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher, Stef Dunselman, Claudine Budel. Made 22nd October 2012 Jeans on ďŹ re: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher & Claudine Budel. Made 29th October 2012

BITTER.

Cookies introduction picture: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher & Claudine Budel. Made 29th October 2012 Coffee: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher & Claudine Budel. Made 29th October 2012 SWEET.

Jeans in honey itnro picture: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher, Stef Dunselman, Claudine Budel. Made 22nd October 2012 SOUR.

Pickles: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher & Claudine Budel. Made 29th October 2012 Jeans in green soda: Own photograph. Photographers; Lete Hulscher & Claudine Budel. Made 29th October 2012

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