trendspotting
Amsterdam
Berlin
table of contents introduction
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Trend 1 : Trashure conclusion
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Trend 2 : Made by me conclusion
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trend 3 : Facing the facts conclusion
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overall conclusion
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source list
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Dear reader... This book in front of you contains some interesting trends which are spotted during the last month in the areas of Berlin and Amsterdam. These vibrant cities show an overwhelming collection of works from artists, designers, musicians and many more. Throughout the trendspotting journey in these capitals a lot of inspiring concepts, designs and stories came by. By photographing everything that caught my eye, it got clear what stood out and what didn’t. These findings are now presented in this book. The trends which are described, are, as all trends,
conflicted with the zeitgeist. After doing a lot of research it was clear that they’re emotionally and practically linked to the spirit of the times. This information could be used as an aid for concept developers to regain some information about the city vibes and get inspired and motivated to create something new. This book is divided in three trends. The first trend is called “Trashure” , which has everything to do with recycling and redesigning. The texts will be supported by visuals which will make clear that someone’s trash could be someone else’s
treasure. The second trend “Made by me” refers to the do-it-yourself trend which is constantly gaining its popularity. Customized products are seen as more valuable and people are getting more creative by making self-made products. The third trend is called “facing the facts”. This trend shows how worlds’ citizens are interfering more and more with global, political and cultural issues. At the end there’s an overall conclusion where these three trends will be linked. So for now, enjoy and get inspired!
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Trashure Recycling and redesigning Nowadays fashion is a raging machine, which produces new collections every six months. More and more designers are trying to fight this phenomenon. In these rough times, due the recession, there seems to have been a radical change – “make new out of old”. Recycling gets a step further, now it’s all about “upcycling”. By upcycling we mean the process of getting more value out of what you already have. Old clothes are being collected and transformed into new garments. But this upcycling trend is not only to be found in the fashion field, we can see it back in interior design, art and architecture as well. This trend is very important these days because sustainability is seen as the key word of today’s life. Because of the never ending financial crisis 4
many people are wanting to change their lives and live in a ‘greener’ way. It’s important to get as many resources back in to the cycle as possible, and the consumers attention has to be shifted from rather quantity to quality. It’s important to buy products which endure, instead of cheap products which don’t survive the season. In Berlin there are now five sustainable fashion shows during fashion week. The sustainability of their clothes means a unique selling point, a competitive edge, which justifies a higher price (Lüdtke, 2012). But sustainability is likely to be a prerequisite for each label in the future. Will the future generation be disgusted by how we treated our resources and how we simply threw away the old just because we needed something new?
In the future we will probably value more things, things that are produced locally and by hand. Food, fashion or even our whole lifestyle. Another importance is to teach the future generations how to produce things themselves and recycle. The new lifestyle will be connected, local and sustainable. I see a cultural trend towards recycling and redesigning, rather than being fixated on the latest. “The upcycling fashion is part of a cultural change. It’s one change that’s not just about environmental sustainablility, but also a culture of sharing and loaning. less is more was yesterday. Do more with less is today”(Mei Hui Liu, 2012, 43).
In these pictures you can see bags which are made by the brand `Infected designers´. This brand makes bags and bowties out of discarded plastic bags. The products are all crafted in Berlin and inspired by the urban city environment. Therefore you can find them in dark and greyish colours. Also important to mention they´re 100% hand made (Infecteddesigners online). 5
In the two pictures above, you can see recycled yarns which are made of old sweaters and plastic bags. In the shop `Manyfold´ where these yarns are sold you can sign up for sowing lessons to work with these yarns and get help from professionals. The picture on the left shows some ´upcycled´ bags. These bags were made as a protest against pollution. Old textiles, fabrics and pieces of clothing were used as working material. Each bag carries a story from their ´earlier´ lives. The idea behind it is based on the fact that the material tells a story of the previous owner.
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Above you can see cans (beercans, and red bull cans) which can be used as a save. Below, you can find wooden furniture which is made of recycled materials.
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The Berlin based label Schmidttakahashi collects old clothes and remakes them in beautiful new designs. You can drop your old clothes off in their Kreuzberg studio. Every donor receives a donation ID number so that they can follow the new life of their discarded clothes. Every item collected is documented and saved in their archive. Then the old clothes are taken apart, mixed with other pieces and processed into all- new collections but with the ensurance that the way in which the individual garments were previously used, and the identity of their respective owners are still recognisable. An RFID-chip containing all the information about the different materials and individual items of clothing used in a piece is sewn into every new garment. In parallel to the RFID technology, schmidttakahashi also provide a platform on their website by which both the donors and new owners can discover and understand the transformation process. A family tree thus arises which makes recycled products more and more attractive. For Schmiddtakashaki the individual character of the garment and its owner is the most interesting part. In this way the material and the used garments also serve as a source of inspiration (Schmidttakashaki online). 8
Conclusion The recycling and redesigning trend is there one to stay. In our spirit of the times recycling and reusing are important factors which lead towards sustainability. Making products locally and handmade, will not only make products ‘greener’ but also more valuable. And it’s value that we cherish these days. Because of the growing commerce and mass productions products aren’t unique anymore. And we as consumers want to possess something exclusive, different and personal (Arts et al, 2009, p89). Upcycled products are these unique products which we’re looking for. They have a whole life story which they’re carrying with them. And by
new concepts, for example as the brand Schmidttakahashi did, used clothes won’t be only used clothes anymore. Pre-owners and new owners will be connected, making part of the recycled clothing family tree. Through RFID technology it is possible to trace your cherished old piece of garment, no matter where it has ended up. And this makes this trend so much more exciting for the consumer. A new concept which doesn’t end up at the point when you throw something away. It’s just the beginning.
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Made by me This second trend “ Made by me” refers to the original DoIt-Yourself trend which was already building before the great recession. But the downturn of the economic crisis is only helping to accelerate it. DIY is getting so popular among citizens because it’s simply cheaper than the alternatives. This trend is driven by factors including the internet, sustainable concerns, antiglobalization and anti- consumption sentiments. The DIY culture has already evolved and branched into niche and subcultures covering everything from entertainment to technology and crafts (van BO, 2012). This movement is still
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spurring forward. People are increasingly motivated and empowered to personalize and make things on their own. It’s all about making a personal “stamp” on products. But why did this movement occur? Over the years less people are trusting big businesses, corporations and brands attached to them (Hong, 2007). The DIY is a way to bypass these corporations by making your own clothes, arts and meals. In this way people know exactly what they’re getting as they simply make part of the production process. Gradually this trend is shifting from the fringe to the mainstream. People are now practicing the DIY
trend in the entertainment, culinary, beauty and fashion field. The internet is also an important factor which expands this trend, it helps DIY-ers to learn, help and inspire each other. In a world where mass produced goods dominate, DIY allows for a sense of discovery and a way to stand out from the crowd. More and more people are seeking out the road less travelled, which offers a bit more uniqueness and adventure. But will this trend last after the recession? The answer to this question is yes, it will. Before the recession, consumers wanted to learn how to do things. Now because of the recession, there is also a need.
In the upper two pictures you can see a lamp which has to be constructed by the buyer himself. On the right side you can see an independent fashion magazine in which sowing patterns are included to create individually. The pictures below are examples of workshops which are given in regular shops. On the left side you can see a store which sells ceramic plates and vases but you can take a workshop in the shop as well. The same for the picture on the right. This store sells recycled yarns but you can practice to work with them by signing up for their sowing lessons which take place in the shop. Given by professionals.
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In Berlin you feel the creativity that percolates from the mix of youth, artists and students living in a fashionable and historic city. When you combine these minds with shoestring budgets you get the most vibrant DIY ideas all around the city. As Berlin is known about its streetart, a shift is now being made from the streets into interior and fashion design. Furniture and clothes are being costumized by self made graffiti. It´s a good way for those who don´t have a lot money but still have good taste which they want to express(scraphacker online).
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Conclusion At first sight the DIY trend seems like bad news for brands. After all, when people are going to do a lot by themselves, where does this leave companies that sell ready-made products? But DIY doesn’t mean that consumers are opting out of the economy, instead, they’re reconfiguring it. Taking a greater stake in the production process. Big brands and marketers can benefit if they understand how to become part of the trend and build the DIY experience into their marketing. For some brands, the answer is to give customers a canvas and let them customize the product for example in feature crafting spaces where customers can
design their own garment or jewellery. The stores sell the items and the costumers get a fun, hands-on experience. As more people have access to information and their comfort level of doing things on their own increases this trend will only expand. Right now the DIY fashion is not at the scale of normal product manufacturing. So a second interesting idea for companies is to figure out how to enable short- and medium run production of DIY goods. Or how to mass produce the goods.
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facing the facts The last trend “Facing the facts” is about the engagement of citizens, artists and brands with all kinds of global issues. For example on cultural, political or economic fields. When you walk through Amsterdam or Berlin, you can see a lot of statements made by artist, singers and designers which are conflicted with the “zeitgeist”. Nowadays people see themselves as individuals with a voice. They’re not scared to speak up and to share their thoughts anymore. Throughout social media, action and reaction takes
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place constantly. Messages are being communicated and thoughts are being shared, waiting for a response or discussion . You see this happening on all sorts of fields. Music, fashion and (street)art are the most popular ones among this trend. These days, where so much is happening daily, we tend to forget what’s going on around us. It’s time to make people aware. We could see this already happening with the “occupy” movement where people are trying to regain power(van Bo, 2012). Now by reaching out to people
through fashion, music and art the message will come across to a greater public. In the future this will definitely expand. When you look at the big Tacheles community in Berlin you can see how much a community of artists can achieve. Besides the fact that higher powers constantly want to close the art house, the artists only get stronger, more creative and outspoken.
This photo is part of the Tacheles Biennale 2012. It serves as a demonstration against the eviction of the artist Alexander Rodin from the art house Tacheles by a communal bank. The message which is being communicated, considers the situation of arts and culture in general, being embedded in a neo liberal society based on functionalism, protfit increase and dispossesion of the commons. The value an meaning of `work´ is being questioned. Victim of banks wants to give a platform and a face to artists dealing with these contemporary questions with the means of their choice in their own discipline(victim of banks online). Cultural differences are being challenged, aren´t we all one?
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The fashion store “Weekday” brought out a store made project which embodies our “zeitgeist”. Every week they create a new print for a T-shirt which will be available in all weekday stores. All weekday stores have printing studios, that’s how they manage to keep the project up to date. The new prints are released every Friday from 12:00. These prints can illustrate or reflect on important news or just express something contemporary that they want to share. On the left you can see a T-shirt with Burma’s democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi who is expected to win a parliamentary seat in the April 1 by-elections. The shirt says: “Justice is a dream” (weekday online). This postcard was to be found in a vintage shop in Berlin. On the back of the card you could read this quote : “nukes or Individuality you always have a choice”.
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Conclusion Nowadays being aware could actually be seen as a quite difficult task. So much is going on in the world, that it’s easy to lose track very fast. By making people aware not only through the newspapers and television a broader public will be reached. For example by communicating through fashion, people will able to “wear” their statements. In this way people will share their thoughts on the streets, maybe even influencing others. I think this is a step forward, because art and especially fashion will get more meaning. And this is exactly what we are looking for. A piece of clothing will now have a story which the owner will carry forward.
Could you imagine, not having to buy a newspaper anymore but just walk into a fashion store and get updated by all the T-shirt which contain the latest news feeds? This is also a great idea for a shop, which will not only deliver products as garments and art pieces but will also be merged on an intellectual level. With lounge corners where people will be able to share their thoughts on the latest developments, global issues and conflicts.
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Overall conclusion There’s a clear connection to be seen between these three trends. They’re all linked with the current zeitgeist and are emerging because of a global conflict or issue. The recycling and upcycling trend takes place because people are trying to live in a “greener” way. They’re fed up with the working methods of big companies and mass-productions which are harming the nature and our environment. The do-ityourself trend also emerges throughout a global issue, but then on the economical field. It has to do with the great recession which makes people look for cheaper alternatives. But it also goes hand in hand with the anti-globalization
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and anti-consumption sentiments, where people are longing to more personal and custom made products. Even the last trend where we’re “facing the facts” emerged from a political standpoint, where the goal is to raise awareness among all. It’s substantial for marketers, concept developers and branders to understand these trends and their origin. These issues play big roles in people’s everyday lives. It’s important to be conscious of these trends and become part of them, otherwise you’ll never be able to reach your costumer.
source list Trend 1: 1. Lüdtke, B., 2012, Altkleider machen leute. Mitteschön, no 12, pp 21, 22 2. Mei Hui Liu, 2012, Old clothes make the man, Mitteschön, no 12, pp 42, 43 3. Infected designers, from : http://infecteddesigners.blogspot.com/ [retrieved 15 April 2012] 4. Schmidttakashaki, from : http://www.schmidttakahashi. de/ [retrieved 16 April 2012] 5. Arts J., Calefato P., Celant G., Clark J., 2009, Mode en verbeelding, ArtEZ press, Arnhem p89-100 Trend 2: 6.van Bo L., 2012, Member of the week: Le van Bo, from: http://betahaus.de/2012/03/ member-of-the-week-le-van-bo-22/?lang=en [retrieved 16 April 2012] 7. Hong J., 2007, DIY Berlin Style, from : http://www.wisebread.com/diy-berlin-style [re-
trieved 16 April 2012] 8. DIY Berlin, from : http:// scraphacker.com/blog/ [retrieved 16 April 2012] 9. Gerard V., from : http://www. goethe.de/kue/des/prj/des/ en9083046.htm [ retrieved 16 April 2012] 10. Arts J., Calefato P., Celant G., Clark J., 2009, Mode en verbeelding, ArtEZ press, Arnhem p 44-65 Trend 3: 11.van Bo L., 2012, Member of the week: Le van Bo, from: http://betahaus.de/2012/03/ member-of-the-week-le-van-bo-22/?lang=en [retrieved 16 April 2012] 12. Victim of Banks, from: http://kritikdesign.blogspot. com/ [retrieved 17 April 2012] 13.Weekday from: http://www. weekday.com/magazine/zeitgeist-no13-2012 [retrieved 12 April 2012] 14. Arts J., Calefato P., Celant G., Clark J., 2009, Mode en ver-
beelding, ArtEZ press, Arnhem p 250-259 Photos: 15. from: http://de.dawanda. com/product/23696121-TheTie-Bow-by-infecteddesigners [retrieved 15 April 2012] 16. from: http://www.buyma. com/item/6620858/ [retrieved 15 April 2012] 17. from: http://www.schmidttakahashi.de/collection. php?lang=en [retrieved 16 April 2012] 18. http://www.izzy-loves. com/2011/02/what-could-possibly-have-drawn-my-eye.html Rest of the images are self-made
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By Lete Hulscher