A city of magnificent culture and arts

Moscow, Russia Fall 1991

This is a continuing narrative from Keatts’ visit to her son, Ken Keatts, who worked at the U.S. Embassy in Russia in the 1990s. Earlier installments can be found at lmtribune.com by clicking the “Special Pubs” tab and viewing back issues of Golden Times.

Back in Moscow (after a visit to Uzbekistan Republic), I’ve been going to and seeing everything possible. Frank, a co-worker of Ken’s, took me to the circus. Traditionally, this government has supported the arts and culture. The circus is considered part of this. There are three perma- nent circus rings in this city. About 40 other cities also have them. The acts travel the circuit around these towns so you can go to the circus often and see an entirely different show. Many of the acts really impressed me. They obviously had ballet and mime training. The clowns were excellent. One afternoon, I walked to the zoo near the Embassy. It was cold and windy. Most of the animals had been taken out of the cages or were huddled inside their buildings trying to keep warm. I was the only animal stupid enough to be out in the weather, but I paid a ruble to get in, so I had to get my 2 cents worth (literally).

I went to the 25th anniversary performance of the ballet at the beautiful Palace of the Congresses auditorium inside the Kremlin. They performed parts of “Swan Lake,” “Gizelle,” “Don Quixote” and several other ballets. Another night, I went to the opera, “Thovanshchin” (Kho-vansh-cheen-ah) by Moussorgsky at the Bolshoi. What a grand theater! Formed like a horseshoe with the stage across the open end, the inside is gilt and red velvet and it has the most magnificent chandelier imaginable. And the performance — even though I couldn’t understand the words — beat anything I ever saw in New York or Las Vegas. I was truly awed. A friend explained the theme of the opera to me. It was written in the mid-1800s about events in the 1600s. It showed the struggle between old Russia and new Russia, as symbolized by Peter the Great. In light of the recent coup, I thought the topic rather timely. I asked my friend how many times Russia has had this struggle between old and new.

“Over and over again,” she said.

Even though historically the Communist government has supported art and culture, the arts here are in financial trouble, just like the arts in other countries. I hear the British are financing the Bolshoi, and they are looking to America for additional funds. A Japanese man sponsors the ballet.

I’ve been to Red Square twice. Once it was raining, cold and miserable. When I returned, St. Basil’s Cathedral was closed that day. But Ken and I did tour the five cathedrals within the Kremlin. I find myself rather amazed that during 70 years of rule under a godless government, the cathedrals and much of the religious trappings have been preserved. I think they were kept for their historical qualities, but they have been saved and restored.

The Kremlin is a name that tends to fill us with a sense of dread. It is really a set of government administrative offices surrounded by a high fortress wall left over from the 1400s (I think). The word kremlin means “fortress,” and nearly every town has a kremlin.

The compound is spacious and covers several square acres. Even though uniformed soldiers stand guard, you can freely enter and leave the area.

There are five gates into the Kremlin, and each is topped by a tower with a lighted ruby star. These stars are visible on the horizon and help me get my bearings when traveling around town. Only three of the gates are open. Each has a name, but the only one I can remember is the Trinity Gate. I confess to having a real struggle with these Russian names. It seems they have too many syllables. If I had another month, I would be pretty good at pidgin Russian.

The Kremlin is bounded on the east by Red Square, Lenin’s Tomb and St. Basil’s Cathedral; on the north by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (I heard that every Soviet city has one); on the west by Alexander Garden and the Hero City monuments; and on the south by the Moscow River. I’ve been into it several times sightseeing.

The Armory is a museum in the former Czar’s Palace of Russian metal artwork, ending with Fabergé, the gold and silver gifts given to the czars, and collections of armor, carriages, and dresses worn by various queens for their weddings and coronations.

Keatts is a retired Clarkston businesswoman who ran an accounting office for many years. She loves to travel and shares excerpts from notes sent to loved ones detailing her adventures.