Daytripping, May 2022 by Lewiston Tribune

DESTINATIONS AROUND THE REGION YOU CAN VISIT ON THE CHEAP THURSDAY, MAY 19, 2022

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Twenty destinations — all of them well worth a tank of gas

hose of us lucky enough to call the Inland Northwest home can get away from it all or in the thick of things at a moment’s notice. There are seemingly endless opportunities for fun all within a hop, skip or jump of our front doors. With the rising cost of, well, everything, a quick trip on a tank of gas or less is just the ticket this coming summer. And who isn’t ready to get out and about after two-plus years of pandemic-induced isolation? All of that is behind this special section called Daytripping. In the following pages are 20 destinations that are both easy to get to and possible to enjoy on the cheap. From a hike to Palouse Falls, a bit of fishing at Winchester Lake State Park, to hours of enjoyment and even

educational opportunities at Washington State University Bear Center or Dworshak Dam and Reservoir. Daytripping includes descriptions of each destination, some helpful hints of things to do when you get there and, of course, basic directions on how to find where you are going. We hope you enjoy this section. If you do, drop us a line. If Daytripping is as well received as we think it will be, we may have a second round of destinations next year to help with your never-ending exploration of the Inland Northwest.

Craig Clohessy

Clohessy is managing editor of the Lewiston Tribune and Moscow-Pullman Daily News. He can be reached at cclohessy@ lmtribune.com or (208) 848-2251.

Palouse Falls: A waterfall that’s worth the drive .......................................... 4 Choose your own adventure cycling in Walla Walla ....................................... 5 Buffalo Eddy: Artwork that’s stood the test of millennia .............................. 6 WSU Bear Center Face-to-face with bears ... in Cougar country ................... 8 Deer Creek Reservoir: Accessible angling in Clearwater County ................. 9 Moscow Mountain: A wilderness adventure that’s close to home .............. 10 See what all the fuss is about: Check out Lower Granite Dam..................... 12 Newman Lake: Natural diversion just outside Spokane ............................. 14 Hole in the Wall: Holey moley, it’s a pioneer tunnel! .................................. 16 Selway Falls: Rugged waterfall just a (long) drive away .............................. 18 Elk Creek Falls: A magical forest escape — rainbow included .................... 19 St. Gertrude’s Monastery: Repository of the past, a piece of history ............ 20 Pittsburg Landing: One way to drive to Hells Canyon ............................... 22 Nez Perce National Historic Park: History of the Nez Perce on full display ... 24 Steptoe Butte: Quite a view from the top of the Palouse ........................... 26 Winchester Lake State Park: From the ashes rises a scenic oasis ............ 27 White Bird Battleﬁeld: History sewn in the soil of White Bird Canyon ..... 28 Wallowa Lake State Park: Lots happening at high-mountain retreat .............. 30 Recreation abounds behind massive Dworshak Dam and Reservoir ......... 31 Kamiak Butte County Park: Wheat ﬁelds give way to forested trails ....... 32

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PREMIUM EDITION STAFF Publisher ................. NATHAN ALFORD: (208) 848-2208 / alford@lmtribune.com Marketing director........DOUG BAUER: (208) 848-2269 / dbauer@lmtribune.com Managing editor.. CRAIG CLOHESSY: (208) 848-2251 / cclohessy@lmtribune.com City editor .................... MATT BANEY: (208) 848-2262 / mbaney@lmtribune.com Photo editor .............. AUGUST FRANK: (208) 848-2210 / afrank@lmtribune.com Production editor .........BRIAN BEESLEY: (208) 848-8208 / beez@lmtribune.com

Extra copies of this publication can be purchased for $2 at the Tribune and the Daily News offices, 505 Capital St., Lewiston, and 220 E. Fifth St., Suite 314, Moscow.

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1. Palouse Falls 2. Walla Walla cycling trip 3. Buffalo Eddy petroglyphs 4. Hole in the Wall along Grand Ronde River 5. Wallowa Lake 6. Lower Granite Dam and fish ladder

7. WSU Bear Center 8. Kamiak Butte County Park 9. Steptoe Butte County Park 10. Newman Lake hiking trip 11. Moscow Mountain 12. Elk Creek Falls 13. Nez Perce National Historical Park

14. Dworshak Dam and Reservoir 15. Deer Creek Reservoir 16. Selway Falls 17. Winchester Lake State Park 18. Monastery at St. Gertrude’s 19. White Bird Battlefield 20. Pittsburg Landing

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A waterfall that’s worth the drive Palouse Falls, which was named Washington’s state waterfall in 2014, is an unforgettable sight By KAYLEE BREWSTER FOR DAYTRIPPING

Palouse Falls is arguably one of the most scenic views in the Inland Northwest. The Palouse River drops 200 feet into the pool below and the river continues on. The river flows into a canyon that can be seen for miles at the viewpoint at the Palouse Fall State Park Heritage Site. When you arrive, it can be difficult to figure out which is the more spectacular view, the churning water flowing down the waterfall, often glittering in the sunlight to create reflective rainbows, or the carved canyon that follows the river south with deep cuts in the basalt columns that you can see bend and curve with the Palouse River. Either way you want to look at it, Palouse Falls is a must-see for anyone who calls the Pacific Northwest home. In 2014, it was named Washington’s state waterfall. The falls is a popular stop but it’s often a singular destination. “Off the beaten path” is a good way to describe the road to Palouse Falls as there aren’t many towns or destination points along the way. Still, it’s within an hour of the Quad Cities of Lewiston, Clarkston, Moscow and Pullman, and makes for an easy daytrip. Once you arrive at the park (and either pay the fee or have your Discovery Pass), there is a walkway that describes the geological history of the area. The paths are paved and are accessible for all types of walkers. There are plenty of picnic areas, both covered and uncovered, so visitors can enjoy their lunch and take in the views. There are three viewpoints offered along a fenced ridge and walkway, which allow for safe and close observation and photo-taking. It also provides different angles and perspectives of the falls and the canyon. It’s also an opportunity to look at wildlife. Washtucna Palouse Falls 26 is a remote area with limited or no 261 cellphone service. Palouse Summer months Falls are hot and dry so Snake River be sure to bring Perry water. There is also no camping and trailer RV 261 parking is not available. n

ABOVE: People walk along the trail looking down over Palouse Falls earlier this year. The iconic destination was named Washington’s state waterfall in 2014. August Frank/For Daytripping

LEFT: A photo taken with a drone shows a top-down view of Palouse Falls in early March. Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

> Palouse Falls LOCATION: For those traveling from the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley and the Camas Prairie, the easiest route is through Pomeroy (about 50 minutes). Follow U.S. Highway 12 west, then turn onto Washington State Route 261, then turn onto the Palouse Falls Road, which will take you directly to Palouse Falls State Park. Those on the Palouse can take a more direct approach from Washtucna (about 24 minutes), through there you can follow Washington State

Route 261, then turn onto Palouse Falls Road that leads straight into the park. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Observe the beauty of Palouse Falls. There are also short walking paths, picnic areas and restrooms. DIFFICULTY: 1 out of 5. The walking path is fairly level and is accessible under the Americans with Disabilities Act. DON’T FORGET: Water, food for a picnic and a camera to take stunning photos. You must also bring your Discovery Pass or be

prepared to pay the $10 day pass. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: For those heading through Washtucna, be sure to stop at That NW Bus on Main Street. The former school bus covered in vibrant paint and graffiti became a social media sensation using the hashtag #thatNWbus. For those coming from Pomeroy looking for outdoor attractions, there is Lyons Ferry State Park, about 15 minutes south of Palouse Falls, which has boating, fishing and swimming activities.

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A bike sits by Mill Creek in Walla Walla. A system of trails around the creek and Bennington Lake are a good place to take a ride, regardless of a person’s skill level. Elaine Williams/ For Daytripping

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Choose your own adventure cycling in Walla Walla Trails surrounding Mill Creek and Bennington Lake offer easy rides or challenging outings, depending on the route you pick By ELAINE WILLIAMS FOR DAYTRIPPING

ABOVE: People recreate at Bennington Lake in Walla Walla. RIGHT: A man walks through charming downtown Walla Walla while eating ice cream. Elaine Williams/ For Daytripping

WALLA WALLA — The trail system surrounding Mill Creek and Bennington Lake is a place where one of the only boundaries is someone’s own strength. The area was formed to harness Mill Creek and prevent flooding in Walla Walla. The project was completed after the prompting of the town’s chamber of commerce president at the time, Virgil Bennington, who lobbied Congress. The public space features expansive views of grasslands, woods, farmland, the Blue Mountains, and, of course, Bennington Lake on more than 20 miles of trails that feel surprisingly remote even though they are less than a mile from the Walla Walla city limits. Some of the trails are wide and flat and asphalted. Others take steep, sometimes lengthy, climbs through trees or rolling hills. Multiple picnic shelters and benches are placed in scenic spots. Public restrooms are located at the parking areas and in a couple of places along the trail. The combination makes it an excellent destination for people with a variety of skill levels. A family with a child just learning to ride a bicycle could bring a picnic and take the smooth, asphalted trail on the north side of Mill

> See CYCLING, Page 7

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Artwork that’s stood the test of millennia Buffalo Eddy’s petroglyphs are the handiwork of Nez Perce people from hundreds or even thousands of years ago By KERRI SANDAINE FOR DAYTRIPPING

ASOTIN — Buffalo Eddy is a popular destination along Snake River Road for visitors who want to view unique petroglyphs containing hundreds of distinct images that possibly date back as far as 4,500 years ago. On the Washington side of the Snake River, the petroglyphs are within walking distance of the road, along with signs that provide historical information about the Nez Perce people and rock art. Tour boats regularly idle on the Idaho side of the river so passengers can take a closer look at ancient images there. Tribal artists from thousands of years ago chipped and scraped the rocks, creating designs of people

> See ARTWORK, Page 7

TOP: Petroglyphs etched into the rocks shine in the morning sunlight at Buffalo Eddy, located 18 miles south of Asotin. The site contains hundreds of distinct drawings left behind by the Nez Perce people, with some of the etchings being 4,500 years old.

> Buffalo Eddy LOCATION: 16 miles south of Asotin along Snake River Road. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Walk along a short trail to view ancient Nez Perce petroglyphs, and you can also enjoy a picnic lunch and the scenic drive to the sacred site. DIFFICULTY: Difficulty is a 1 or 2 out of 5, depending on walking ability. Parking is available and a small hiking trail with interpretive signs is accessible.

DON’T FORGET: Swimming at Buffalo Eddy is dangerous. Multiple drownings have occurred in the strong current. The petroglyphs are protected by federal law. Digging or damaging the resources is a felony, punishable by a fine of up to $100,000 or imprisonment. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: If you continue driving along Snake River Road to Heller Bar, you will be able to see where the Grande Ronde and Snake rivers meet.

ABOVE: Jerry and Cindy Reisinger, right, of Pomeroy, along with Anna Medici, a friend visiting from Maine, read an informational plaque at Buffalo Eddy. LEFT: Cindy Reisinger and Medici take photos of the petroglyphs etched into the rocks at Buffalo Eddy along the Snake River, 18 miles south of Asotin. These drawings left behind by the Nez Perce people give evidence of their strong connection with the animals and land. Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

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7 Reisinger and Medici explore the rocks at Buffalo Eddy along the Snake River, 18 miles south of Asotin.

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Buffalo Eddy Petroglyphs

Artwork from Page 6 and animals, along with abstract shapes. The site has been known as a sacred space for the Nez Perce people for countless years, and the carvings likely had spiritual significance and were also used to tell stories related to hunting. Additions to the rock art stopped about 300 years ago, according to historians. The arrival of white settlers and horses may have been the cause. The Snake River corridor is now populat-

ed with houses, ranches and vacation homes. The drive from Asotin to Buffalo Eddy is beautiful, especially in the spring when the hills are green. Wild-

life sightings along the way are common, and the sparkling river leading to Hells Canyon is breathtaking. Buffalo Eddy is one of the deepest parts of the river,

and its swirling water acts as a whirlpool that can suck down swimmers. Signs have been posted to warn visitors about the dangers of taking a plunge. However, anglers

often cast their lines from the banks, and tents along the beach are a frequent sight on hot summer days. The road gets busy in the summer as people flock to beaches, boat ramps and other areas of interest. In recent years, access to beaches has been reduced as more and more private landowners install fences and “no trespassing” signs. Buffalo Eddy is one of the few spots with room for parking and public access. The other side of the river is privately owned. No fees or reservations are needed for recreational activities at Buffalo Eddy. The site is managed by the National Park Service, and more information about the petroglyphs can be found at the Nez Perce National Historical Park visitor center at Spalding. n

Mountains are seen in the distance across farmland near Bennington Lake in Walla Walla. Elaine Williams/For Daytripping

Cycling from Page 5 Creek from the Mill Creek project office to Rooks Park, where there is a playground. Starting in the same place, an experienced rider could head east along Mill Creek and then circle Bennington Lake before going back, a loop that would take about one hour. Those who seek an even greater challenge could go to downtown Walla Walla or explore the foothills of the Blue Mountains on nearby roads. Allegro Cyclery at 200 E. Main St. in downtown Walla Walla has bicycle rentals and information at the store and on its website at allegrocyclery.com. n

> Mill Creek Trails, Bennington Lake and Rooks Park, Walla Walla LOCATION: From the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, travel west along U.S. Highway 12 to Walla Walla. The drive takes about two hours. Exit south on Airport Way and drive south. Head east on Reservoir Road and take the second left to reach the Mill Creek project office, one of many access points to the system. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Bicycling, hiking, fishing,

wildlife spotting and boating in vessels powered by electric motors, wind or human strength. DIFFICULTY: 1 to 3 out of 5 depending on what you do. DON’T FORGET: A map of the system. They are available at a chamber of commerce kiosk in downtown Walla Walla at First Avenue and Main Street. (It can be confusing the first time you visit.) Bicycle helmet, sunscreen, fishing license, water, snacks and life jackets for anyone who is boating. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Downtown Walla Walla is packed with independent restaurants, ice cream

places and coffee houses, as well as stores that sell clothing, books, furniture, souvenirs and second-hand merchandise. Consider Colville Street Patisserie. It has espresso, pastries, gelato and wine by the glass. WINE: Walla Walla is known for its wines for good reason. It is home to well-known brands that include Dunham Cellars and Canoe Ridge. Check out Vital Wines at 17 N. Second Ave. Its wines are exceptional, especially for the price. The profits go to health care and other resources for vineyard and winery employees.

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Face-to-face with bears ... in Cougar country Biologists study grizzlies at the WSU Bear Center in Pullman, but the public gets a peek at the big beasts too By KAYLEE BREWSTER FOR DAYTRIPPING

While many people find grizzly bears cute and cuddly, few want to get up close and personal with one in the wild. Fortunately, the Washington State University Bear Center lets you do some of that at a safe distance. The WSU Bear Research, Education and Conservation Center allows biologists the opportunity to study the bears to help understand and manage wild grizzly bears. That means visitors also have the opportunity to observe the animals. In the warmer months, bears can be seen from a viewing area in the parking lot. The area provides space for the bears to forage for food or play with equipment and in the pools. The facility has six outdoor and indoor runs and dens, along with a 2.2-acre yard. There are currently no bear viewings inside the building or formal tour of the bear center, but a new facility is being proposed to offer more educational opportunities for the public. n

ABOVE: Three of the nearly dozen grizzlies held at Washington State University’s Bear Center are seen snacking on the other side of a series of wire fencing at the center in Pullman. LEFT: Megan Forbes, left, of Louisville, Ky., and Laurie Arp, of Dublin, Ohio, gaze in amazement at roaming grizzly bears at Washington State University’s Bear Center in Pullman. Arp and Forbes, who are visiting for work, said they were told they must visit the bears while in town. They both confirmed it was worth the long walk from their hotel up the road.

> WSU Bear Center LOCATION: The Bear Center is located on the east side of Pullman. While traveling on the Pullman Moscow Highway, turn on Terre View Drive. The center is along Terre View Drive, between Grimes Way and Animal Sciences Road. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Watch bears being cute. DIFFICULTY: 1 out of 5. (Unless the mere sight of massive grizzly bears causes you stress.) DON’T FORGET: Camera. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: A trip to WSU isn’t be complete without stopping at Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe for a scoop of ice cream or some Cougar Gold cheese. Located on Ferdinand’s Lane, five minutes from the bear center. There is also an observation room that lets visitors watch the dairy-making process. Not open on weekends.

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LOWER LEFT: One of the nearly dozen grizzlies held at the bear center is seen through a series of wire fencing. Zach Wilkinson/ For Daytripping

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Eric Barker/For Daytripping

A boat slowly motors across Deer Creek Reservoir. The man-made body of water near Pierce was opened in 2004 and is stocked with trout.

Accessible angling in Clearwater County Deer Creek Reservoir was tailor-made for those who want to go fishing but aren’t in the mood for much hassle By MATT BANEY

Deer Creek Reservoir

FOR DAYTRIPPING

Most of the backwoods gems in Clearwater County require a significant amount of time and effort to visit. But there are a few destinations that are relatively easy to reach. One such spot is Deer Creek Reservoir, a 65acre body of water created in 2004 for the purpose of giving locals an accessible fishing hole. The road to the reservoir is all paved highway until the last 1½-mile stretch, which is a well-maintained gravel road. At the site are two large docks, a boat launch, a vault toilet, plenty of parking — and it’s handicap accessible. The lake is stocked with a variety of trout. The still waters are surrounded by a dense thicket of pine trees. Eagles and hawks glide overhead, and deer can be spotted on the banks of the reservoir. There aren’t hiking trails, but children will find plenty of areas to explore. The lake is open to fishing year-round, but the access road is closed to motorized traffic from October to early May. And on the

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water, a no-wake rule is always in effect for boats. No one would confuse this spot with the well-known and rugged North Fork of the Clearwater River, which is at least another hour of driving away and requires surefooting for anyone planning to wet a line. For seniors or families with children, a Deer Creek Reservoir fishing trip might be a better option. The reservoir is 11 miles north of Pierce, most of which is traversed on State Highway 11. The lake is even closer to the former Potlatch Corp. company town of Headquarters, which was bustling in the mid-20th century but is now almost a ghost town. Deer Creek Reservoir was built by the Idaho Fish

and Game Department on land donated by Potlatch. Anglers can also try their luck at another manmade body of water, Deyo Reservoir, which opened to the public in 2013. That spot is near Weippe and also features easy access to fishing, and, unlike at Deer Creek, camping is allowed. A daytrip to either reservoir can also be served with a side dish of Idaho history. The Weippe Prairie is where the Nez Perce Tribe first had contact with the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1805, and gold was discovered near Pierce in 1860, the incident that eventually led to Idaho becoming a state. n

Joyce Wollam, of Orofino, pulls in a rainbow trout from Deer Creek Reservior near Pierce. The reservior offers easy access to fishing. Eric Barker/For Daytripping

> Deer Creek Reservoir LOCATION: From Pierce, travel north on State Highway 11, turn right at Fish and Game access sign near historic Townsite 4, travel 1½ miles. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Fishing, wildlife spotting. DIFFICULTY: 1 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Fishing gear, fishing license, sunscreen, drinks and snacks. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Deyo Reservoir near Weippe, which also provides easy access to fishing; J. Howard Bradbury Memorial Logging Museum, open seasonally in Pierce. WATERING HOLE: To judge by its Facebook page, it’s a party most nights at the Flame Bar in Pierce.

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Zach Wilkinson/For Daytripping

A sign offers directions at the intersection of Mountain View Trail and Meadow View Trail at Idler’s Rest Nature Preserve. These are part of the 60-plus-mile system of trails in the area of Moscow Mountain.

A wilderness adventure that’s close to home Private landowners and the public come together to bring 60-plus miles of trails to Moscow’s backyard By ANTHONY KUIPERS FOR DAYTRIPPING

A partnership between public and private landowners transformed a natural landmark into one of Moscow’s best daytrip destinations. In the 1990s, the private landowners on Moscow Mountain began allowing the public to create and use nonmotorized trails on their land to indulge the community’s hiking and biking

needs. Since then, it has become one of the most popular outdoor recreation spots on the Palouse. “It’s such a gift to the community and to the people of the Palouse,” said Ginger Yoder, spokeswoman for the Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association. MAMBA is the local organization that partners with landowners to create and sustain recreation on

Zach Wilkinson/For Daytripping

A sign on Mountain View Trail highlights the remnants of an old fruit orchard > See MOUNTAIN, Page 11 that was planted by homesteaders.

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Mountain from Page 10

Potlatch 95 Meadow View Trail at Idler’s Rest Nature Preserve is groomed and ready for use. Zack Wilkinson/ For Daytripping

ABOVE: A cyclist rides down Headwaters Trail, a 5-mile loop on Moscow Mountain. RIGHT: Sunlight shines through the trees to highlight Cedar Trail. Zach Wilkinson/ For Daytripping

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Moscow Mountain, she said. Over the years, more than 60 miles of trails were formed with the help of MAMBA. Several are even available for the winter as trails for snowshoeing, fat biking and cross-country skiing. Yoder said MAMBA performs trail maintenance, parking lot maintenance, disseminates information about the trails and how its users can respect the land. It has approximately 250 members. The Moscow resident said one of Moscow Mountain’s best features is its accessibility. “From my doorstep to the Headwaters parking lot is six minutes,” she said, referring to one of Moscow Mountain’s trailheads. “I can literally load up my bike and be unloading my bike at a trailhead in six or seven minutes, and I live in town.” The mountain allows people a chance to get out in the wilderness, see stunning views of the Palouse and meet other adventurous folks along the way. Yoder said the social aspect of enjoying the wilderness with others is one of her favorite aspects of outdoor recreation. “We really get to build community out in this beautiful nature,” she said. Yoder encouraged anyone interested in visiting the mountain to download a free trail map at mambatrails.org. She also encouraged them to be courteous of the land, respect closures, not start fires and pick up trash. “Be willing to explore and adventure and know that we want to leave the trails better than we found them,” she said. Soon, some of those trails may have public permanent access. According to a March 5 Lewiston Tribune report, the Palouse Land Trust, along with the MAMBA and the Palouse Road Runners running club, have raised more than $40,000 that will help pay for management of two easements near the Idler’s Rest Nature Preserve. The access easement will allow the construction of hiking and biking trails that connect Idler’s Rest with other trails. n

> Moscow Mountain LOCATION: From Moscow, travel north on U.S. Highway 95 for 4½ miles, turn right onto Lewis Road then left onto Foothill Road to get to the Headwaters Trailhead parking lot. From Troy, turn onto Big Meadow Road from Highway 8, turn left on Randall Flat Road, turn right onto Tamarack Road and follow for 5 miles, until you reach the Tamarack Road Hiking Path parking area. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Hiking, biking, snow skiing DIFFICULTY: Between 2 to 4 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Trail map, hiking or biking shoes, sunscreen, water NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Idler’s Rest Nature Preserve

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See what all the fuss is about: Check out Lower Granite Dam This road trip into the heart of Whitman County is a must for those interested in the fish-versus-dams debate bound for Idaho must pass, and its visitor center, on the south side of the river, has a popular fish viewing We spend a lot of time talking window. May is fairly reliable for those interested in seeing spring about federal dams on the lower chinook. Adults are passing the dam Snake River and whether they as they return from the Pacific Ocean should stay or go. and head toward But have you ever spawning grounds or visited one? Ever 194 the hatcheries where seen a salmon? Now Pullman Snake they began life. At the is a great time to go River same time, juvenile Lower to Lower Granite salmon and steelhead Dam, especially if you Granite Dam are streaming are interested in the through, over and debate over how best Wawawai 195 around the dam on to recover imperiled Road their way to the ocean. salmon and steelhead. Visitors can take in The dam is the last 12 Clarkston one returning adult > See DAM, Page 13 salmon and steelhead

By ERIC BARKER

FOR DAYTRIPPING

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ABOVE: The Lower Granite Lock and Dam are seen from the north shore of the Snake River near Almota. While debate rages between those who want Lower Granite Dam and the other three dams on the lower Snake River breached and those who want them to stay, not many folks have actually visited the remote dams. LEFT: Water rushes down the adult fish ladder at the Lower Granite Dam. Zach Wilkinson/ For Daytripping

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13 > Lower Granite Dam

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LOCATION: From the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, travel west on U.S. Highway 12, just past Alpowa Summit, interpretive displays explaining the then turn right and head salmon and steelhead life cycle, the extensive adult and juvenile fish north on Ledgerwood Road. passage infrastructure constructed After 2 miles, continue by the Army Corps of Engineers north on Kirby Mayview and the specialized barges used Road and follow it, Casey to ship some of the young fish Creek Road and Almota Ferry through the Snake and Columbia Road to the dam. This route rivers hydropower system. approaches the dam from its Also at the visitor center is downriver side and ends on information on the hydroelectricity the south side of the river. produced at the dam and the locks From Pullman, follow State that make river transportation possible. Riverborne Route 194 to Almota, to transportation and hydropower Lower Granite Road and the production are both central to downstream side of the dam the dam-versus-fish debate. at Boyer Park. To reach the Guided tours of the dam are visitor center, cross the dam. available at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. on WHAT YOU’LL DO: Saturdays and Sundays. Vehicles Watch salmon as they can drive across the dam 7 a.m. access the dam’s fish to 5 p.m. on weekdays and 7 ladder, learn about salmon a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekends. passage infrastructure, But there’s more to see at the river transportation and dam and its immediate vicinity. The Corps maintains recreation hydroelectric generation. facilities such as boat ramps, DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5. fishing sites, camping, seasonal DON’T FORGET: beach access and access to habitat Sunscreen, drinks and management units. Popular snacks. If you plan to spots include Illia Dunes on cross the dam, make sure the south side of the river and crossings are offered at Boyer Park on the north side. Zach Wilkinson/For Daytripping the time of your visit. More information about the Fish are seen making their way up the adult ﬁsh ladder through a viewing window in the NEARBY SITES dam and nearby recreation visitors center at the Lower Granite Dam at Almota. Visitors to the dam can watch the OF INTEREST: Boyer opportunities are available at bit. ly/3E8WPih and bit.ly/3KLlI64.  Park, Illia Dunes. migrating ﬁsh work their way back upriver.

from Page 12

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Natural diversion just outside Spokane Newman Lake’s McKenzie Conservation Area boasts opportunities for hiking, trail running, mountain biking, picnicking By ELAINE WILLIAMS FOR DAYTRIPPING

NEWMAN LAKE — Lake Coeur d’Alene attracts thousands of visitors every year who swim and boat on its vast waters. What isn’t as well known are the more than 10 lakes scattered throughout the mountains and forests of northern Idaho and eastern Washington. Many of them are close enough to visit on daytrips, including Newman Lake. It’s a 2½-hour drive to reach Newman Lake from the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, but it could also be a nice diversion if you’re in Spokane for another reason like shopping at department stores. It’s only 30 minutes from the Spokane Valley Mall. Nestled between the private homes that surround much of Newman Lake, McKenzie Conservation Area offers more than 5 miles of trails that can be used by the public for free. Open between sunrise and sunset, the parking lot has a clean port-apotty, but no running water. It’s at a low enough elevation to be accessible in the spring, when trails higher in the mountains are blocked by snow. One of the shortest sections of paths leads to the area’s biggest attraction, Turtle Rock. That hike would be a great way to introduce children to outdoor recreation because of its small distance and large reward. The rock is great for climbing and has a view of Mount Spokane. It’s an excellent place to enjoy a picnic, next to calm but deep water that would be good for swimming with caution in warmer weather. Other trails through the forested area are steeper, traversing through rock outcroppings, providing technical terrain for mountain bikers and trail runners. The 462 acres operated

Newman Lake

ABOVE: Newman Lake is a good spot for a picnic lunch — aside from the hiking, biking and exploring options at the oasis near Spokane.

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Liberty Lake

LEFT: Turtle Rock is a memorable landmark at Newman Lake and can be reached after a short hike.

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by Spokane County are ecologically diverse. They are home to bald eagles, painted turtles and frogs. Moose, elk, white-tailed deer, coyote and black bear have been spotted at the site. Its woods are populated by Western red cedar, Western larch, Western white pine, Douglas fir, Western hemlock, grand fir, lodgepole pine and ponderosa pine trees. Its wetlands are ringed by cottonwoods and aspens. Geology buffs can savor the experience even more with a self-guided tour available at bit.ly/3srhvNM. n

Elaine Williams/ For Daytripping

> Newman Lake LOCATION: From the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley or Palouse, head to Spokane on U.S. Highway 195 in Washington. Head east on Interstate 90 and take the Pines Road exit going north. Go east on Trent Avenue and turn left onto North Starr Road. There’s an Exxon Station at the intersection. Take a right on East Hauser Lake Road, then a left onto North Muzzy Road. Follow it around the lake as it changes into Northwest Newman Lake Drive not far from the entrance of McKenzie Conservation Area. Reaching the area from the east is faster because of extreme curves in the road on the west side. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Hiking, trail running, mountain

bicycling, picnicking and wildlife spotting. DIFFICULTY: 1 to 2½ out of 5, depending on what activity you choose. DON’T FORGET: Water, snacks, sunscreen, hand sanitizer and a whistle, which comes in handy in the unlikely event you need help. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Spokane Valley Mall. PUBLIC BOAT LAUNCH: The Newman Lake public boat is on the southwest end and requires a Washington Discovery Pass. They are sold at the Exxon station at the intersection of North Starr Road and Trent Avenue. It takes less than one hour to paddle a kayak to Turtle Rock from the launch. It’s worth the extra effort to see the geological feature from the water.

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Discover Hells Canyon Follow the rivers through the sheer ruggedness of Hells Canyon, North America’s Deepest River Gorge and see what adventures await you. Snake River Adventures offers a myriad of exciting and fabulous adventures ranging from half day to full day Jet Boat Tours. Charter a guided fishing trip on the Snake, Salmon or Clearwater Rivers. Need more…combine fishing with guided cast-n-blast trips for chukar bird hunting. Overnight accommodations at Garden Creek Ranch located deep in Hells Canyon, will satisfy anyone looking to get away from it all.

See you on the river!

208.746.6276 | snakeriveradventures.com | 4832 Hells Gate Rd, Lewiston (Indside Hells Gate State Park)

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Holey moley, it’s a pioneer

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LEFT: “Anya + Oly” is written on the inside of the Hole in the Wall along the Grande Ronde River.

tunnel!

RIGHT: Holes, intended to house dynamite, are seen inside the Hole in the Wall along the Grande Ronde River. August Frank/ For Daytripping

Hole in the Wall, along the Grande Ronde River, is a unique example of homesteader stick-to-itiveness By KERRI SANDAINE FOR DAYTRIPPING

ANATONE — If you’re looking for a fun little adventure and gorgeous scenery, check out the Hole in the Wall at the bottom of Shumaker Grade along the Grande Ronde River. There you can imagine what it was like to travel to and from Oregon in the late 1800s and early 1900s. It may make you scratch your head, wondering how people got their wagons or vehicles down there in the first place. Make no mistake, the gravel road leading to this treasure can still be treacherous. It’s a steep descent with more switchbacks than nearby Rattlesnake Grade and there’s not a guardrail in sight. Dry weather is the only time to embark on this jaunt, and it’s probably not for folks who freak out on narrow routes, such as the Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier Park. Other than that, this is a perfect drive in rural Asotin County. Late spring and early fall are ideal times to drop into the canyon for a step back in time and a breath of fresh air. The hills are green now, and an array of wildflowers are in bloom. A few lilac bushes offer their sweet fragrance near a former homestead, where you can also see the hard work of settlers who built rock walls that are still standing. Before you see the mysterious Hole in the Wall, which was once part of the only highway leading to Oregon, you’ll come across primitive campsites and a public toilet managed by the Washington

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Hole in the Wall OREGON Department of Fish and Wildlife. There are no picnic tables, power or water hook-ups, and campers must haul their own trash. Fire pits and shade trees make this an attractive place to get away from it all, and it only requires a Discovery Pass, which are available at the Nom Nom market in Asotin or online. No reservations are needed because it’s first-come, first-serve, and there’s no special fee to use the space. It can get busy during the summer months and whenever the fish are biting, but on a recent spring day, the campground was empty, and the only sounds heard came from the rushing river, wind in the trees and chirping birds. A few ranch houses are at the bottom of the grade, where you may see peacocks preening and cattle lowing along the road. Other wildlife is abundant. According to historians, Shumaker Road was the original route between Lewiston and Enterprise. It was carved out of the canyon in 1892 for wagons and replaced with the current state highway route in the 1930s. Montgomery Ridge Road and Schumaker are now maintained by the Asotin

TOP: A peacock flies down from a fence at a residence along Shumaker Road. Numerous peacocks as well as turkeys and longhorn cattle can be spotted along the road. ABOVE: Hills extend out into the distance in the view from the top of Shumaker Road. LEFT: Pete the dog stands near a lilac bush at the campground. August Frank/For Daytripping

County Road Department. In the 1890s, dynamite was used to blast through basalt rock along the river, creating the Hole in the Wall. A cable secured to the nearby rocks suggests a ferry system was once used there to get folks across the river. After the tunnel was completed, a bridge was

built upstream to replace the ferry, but it was destroyed by an ice dam in 1930. The hole now provides a great backdrop for photos and an interesting and unique site to visit. There’s room to turn around near the entrance, if you choose to drive all the way to the wall. n

ABOVE: Hole in the Wall is seen along the Grande Ronde River, as Pete the dog runs forward to investigate. The hole in the basalt rock was created in the 1890s by dynamite blasting so wagons of the day could continue their journey along the river. August Frank/For Daytripping

> Hole in the Wall LOCATION: Bottom of Shumaker Grade in Asotin County, 30 miles south of Asotin. About 2 miles after you pass through Anatone, take a left on Montgomery Ridge Road, and a mile later, take a right on Shumaker Road, where your descent to the Grande Ronde River begins. At the bottom of

the grade, the road turns west and proceeds upriver about 2.5 miles. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Explore the intriguing rock hole, pack a picnic lunch or camp and fish on public lands along the river. Campsites at Snyder Bar are first-come, first-serve and an outhouse is available. The site is managed by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. DIFFICULTY: Between 2 and 4 out of

5, depending on the weather and road conditions. Once you’re near the hole, the walk is easy or you can drive to it. DON’T FORGET: Shumaker Grade is twisty and can be muddy and slick, so take it slow, and avoid the drive in the winter or after a hard rain. It’s also remote, so it’s a good idea to pack food and water for emergencies. When the weather warms up, keep an eye out

for rattlesnakes when you’re walking. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Along the scenic drive, you’ll likely see longhorn cattle, peacocks, deer and other wildlife. Snyder Bar campsites require a Discovery Pass or a vehicleuse permit that comes with a fishing and hunting license. The area is a popular staging and camping area for anglers, rafters and boaters.

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A magical forest escape — rainbow included

A rainbow is created in the spray at Elk Creek Falls.

The hike to Elk Creek Falls offers enchanting views of three distinct waterfalls

Mary Stone/For Daytripping

By MARY STONE FOR DAYTRIPPING

Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

This image captured with a drone shows the middle waterfall of Elk Creek Falls earlier this spring. The natural attraction is comprised of three separate waterfalls totaling more than 140 feet. It’s 50 miles east of Moscow near the town of Elk River.

> Elk Creek Falls 3

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LOCATION: 50 miles east of Moscow, 70 miles northeast of Lewiston, 2 miles from Elk River. From Moscow, travel east on Highway 8, passing through Troy, Deary and Bovill (from Lewiston, take U.S. Highway 95/12 and State Highway 3 to Deary, then proceed to Bovill). Approximately 11 miles past the town of Bovill will be signs for Elk Creek Falls Recreation Area. Turn right on Forest Service Road 1452, a gravel road; in a couple of miles, the road leads to the recreation area parking lot. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Hike primarily wide, well-groomed trails, about 3 miles, to three different falls during daylight hours starting in May (a nordic ski trail

that leads to the trailhead is maintained in winter months). There is no fee. DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5. Some parts of the trail system are accessible to those with mobility impairments. DON’T FORGET: Water, comfy shoes, binoculars. Drinking water is not provided at the trailhead; there is a vault toilet. INFO: bit.ly/ElkCreekFilesHike. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: The town of Elk River, approximately 4 miles from the trailhead, boasts the Elk River Lodge & General Store, which offers huckleberry ice cream seasonally. The nearby Elk Creek Reservoir is a popular fishing destination.

The hike to Elk Creek Falls, especially if you’re coming from the arid Lewiston-Clarkston Valley midsummer, is a refreshing forest foray, complete with the magic of a rainbow. The short hike, most of it on wide, gentle trails once part of an old wagon road, makes for a leisurely halfday, which can be rounded out with a visit to nearby Elk River where you’re likely to find huckleberry ice cream — reason enough to get out of the house. The series of trails is well marked, no matter which of the three falls you visit first. Interpretive signs at each — upper, middle and lower — offer details about the area’s geological and human history. For example, the proliferation of green, including Western red cedar and maidenhair ferns typically seen in coastal regions, can be attributed in part to ash-fortified soil resulting from a volcanic eruption about 6500 B.C. Also keep an eye — and an ear — out for avian life. There’s a reason it’s designated an Idaho Birding Trail, which you can learn more about at idahobirdingtrail.org. The three falls total more than 140 feet, according to the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests website, at bit.ly/ElkCreekFilesHike. It’s at the lower falls where the midday sun creates a rainbow in the spray, where Elk Creek “plummets nearly 50 feet into a rocky pool on its way to the North Fork of the Clearwater River,” according to the sign there. The middle falls, according to the signage there, “is the tallest waterfall in Idaho, measuring 90 feet in height, and is actually a series of two falls separated by a pool.” n

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RIGHT: St. Gertrude Monastery is seen near Cottonwood recently. August Frank/ For Daytripping

BELOW: A bronze statue by David Manuel titled “The Protector” is on display at the Historical Museum at St. Gertrude, located on the monastery campus. Barry Kough/ For Daytripping

A repository of the past, and a piece of history Historical Museum at St. Gertrude near Cottonwood has a long history of its own By KATHY HEDBERG FOR DAYTRIPPING

The Historical Museum at St. Gertrude has been called one of the bestkept secrets of Idaho. Located on the bucolic grounds of the Benedictine Monastery of St. Gertrude, the museum — recently remodeled and structured around the sisters of the monastery and the early pioneers of north central Idaho — draws more than

6,000 visitors a year. The nucleus of the museum started in 1910 when Sister Rose Hodges, a science teacher at St. Scholastica Academy in Colton, received a collection of minerals from the National Museum of Natural History, later known as the Smithsonian. In 1931, Sister Alfreda Elsensohn, a teacher at St. Gertrude’s Academy in Cottonwood, brought the

> See HISTORY, Page 21

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History from Page 20

> Historical Museum at St. Gertrude LOCATION: Three miles west of Cottonwood at 465 Keuterville Road. DIFFICULTY: 1 out of 5 OPEN YEAR-ROUND: Monday through Saturday except for certain holidays, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Closed Sundays, Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, Thanksgiving and the Friday after, and Christmas Eve through New Year’s Day. WATERING HOLES: The Keuterville Pub and Grub is located 3 miles west of the monastery on Keuterville Road and serves beer, burgers, sandwiches and salads. ABOUT THE MONASTERY: Because of the ongoing pandemic, the historical monastery chapel is currently closed to the public. The Spirit Center, located next to the museum, is open for gatherings and retreats, and the Inn at St. Gertrude also is open for overnight guests. FEES: Adults, $6; students 7-17, $3; children 6 and younger, free. CONTACT: (208) 962-2050; or online at: historicalmuseumatstgertrude.org/

TOP LEFT: Pax A.D. 1920 is written in a stone on the outside of a wall at the St. Gertrude Monastery near Cottonwood. TOP RIGHT: Sister Alfreda Elsensohn is pictured on a wall at the museum of the St. Gertrude Monastery near Cottonwood. ABOVE A statue displays Jesus at the St. Gertrude Monastery near Cottonwood. LEFT: A bird flies above the St. Gertrude Monastery near Cottonwood. August Frank/For Daytripping, Barry Kough/For Daytripping

mineral collection to the academy and it became the start of the museum. At that time, the museum was housed in the school attic, along with other taxidermy specimens and various artifacts from Sister Alfreda’s science curriculum and collections of interest. Finally, in 1980, a new museum was built and the ever-growing collection was relocated to its present site. Artifacts from throughout the Northwest, including the Rhoades Emmanuel Memorial collection, named after a Camas Prairie native who went on to become a world-renowned organist, expanded the museum’s offerings further. Space was crowded and displays were jumbled together in no apparent order until 2015, when the museum obtained large grants from the Idaho State Historical Society, Idaho Humanities Council and the Laura Moore Cunningham Foundation. Under the guidance of former Idaho State Historian Keith Petersen and Mary Reed, of Moscow, the museum underwent a six-year, $100,000 redesign that tells the unfolding story of the sisters, the Nez Perce people, early pioneers and other fascinating local characters such as Polly Bemis and Buckskin Bill. “Benedictines have always valued history and have always valued tradition,” said Sister Mary Forman, prioress of the monastery. “And one of the best ways to show that tradition and history is to actually honor the artifacts that tell the story. And that goes way back, thousands of years, doing that. So we come by this very naturally.” Besides the exhibits, the museum also offers a visitor’s center and gift shop at the entrance to the building. Throughout the year, lecture series featuring local historians and other experts are scheduled. The annual Raspberry Festival, held the first Sunday in August, was postponed during the COVID-19 pandemic. This year the event will be offered Aug. 7 on a scaled-back format and renamed the Raspberry Social. All revenue from that event helps support the museum’s mission of preserving the rich heritage of the Monastery of St. Gertrude, the Camas Prairie, Snake River, Salmon River and the surrounding areas. n

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Pittsburg Landing

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RIGHT: A dog walks along the dock in front of several boats at Pittsburg Landing on the Snake River.

BELOW: A small metal sign reading “Wild Bill” is nailed to the rocks at Pittsburg Landing. August Frank/For Daytripping

One way to drive to Hells Canyon Exploring North America’s deepest gorge requires a boat, but the drive to Pittsburg Landing is one way to get a taste of the rugged canyon

> Pittsburg Landing LOCATION: From the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley or the Palouse, travel south on U.S. Highway 95 past White Bird and turn right on Old Highway 95 at mile marker 222 where there are signs for Pittsburg Landing and Hammer Creek Recreation Area. Follow the road for about 1 mile, turn left and cross the bridge over the Salmon River and then take an immediate left on Deer Creek Road and follow it for 17½ miles to arrive at the landing. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Take in the majesty of Hells Canyon, have a picnic and maybe go for a hike. DIFFICULTY: 3 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Sun screen, water, snacks. It’s rattlesnake country so long pants and boots are not a bad idea if you plan to hike. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Although Pittsburg Landing is on the river, it’s not a great swimming hole. If you visit in the middle of summer and have a hankering for a dip or just to sit on a sandy beach, consider stopping at Skookumchuck Recreation Site on the Salmon River at mile marker 219.

By ERIC BARKER FOR DAYTRIPPING

Hells Canyon tends to be a difficult place to reach for both sinners and the pure of heart. You can get there by jet boat or raft. But doing so requires a jet boat or raft, the proper permits and at least a little bit of skill maneuvering a craft through whitewater. There are no roads for motorized vehicles that run up and down the canyon and along the Snake River, so you can’t really take a scenic drive through its basalt walls and tawny hillsides. But there are a few backcountry byways that deliver visitors to sweet spots in the heart of the canyon. Deer Creek Road is just such a route, and the sweet spot at its end is Pittsburg Landing. It’s not exactly a short drive to reach this boat

August Frank/For Daytripping

> See CANYON, Page 23 Marty Gardner paddles across the Snake River with his dog Spur at Pittsburg Landing.

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ABOVE: A boat approaches the ramp at Pittsburg Landing. LEFT: From Pittsburg Saddle Point, snow-covered mountains can be seen in the distance, as well as the dirt road that leads to the landing. August Frank/For Daytripping

Canyon from Page 22 ramp, campground and trailhead. But the gravel road is generally in pretty good shape and the reward is a taste of the famous canyon that is the deepest gorge in North America. The canyon gets this distinction by counting the peaks of the Seven Devils Mountain

Range as part of its eastern rim. The scenery is well worth the drive and it’s not unusual to see wildlife such as deer and sometimes elk, birds of prey and even rattlesnakes. Deer Creek Road begins at the lower Salmon River near White Bird and Hammer Creek and climbs gently as it heads west and south, winding its way to the top of the divide separating the Snake and Salmon rivers. Just over the crest and surrounded by big ponderosa

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pine trees is the Pittsburg Saddle View Point, which gives visitors their first gander at the canyon below. From there, the road that is also known as National Forest Road 493, follows Kurry Creek to the landing. It descends quickly in a series of hairpin turns but the pitch quickly becomes more gentle. The lower landing includes a campground, picnic area and boat ramp. The upper landing includes a campground and trailhead.

It is fairly open at Pittsburg Landing but those looking to experience the steep walls the canyon is known for can do so by hiking upstream toward the historic Kirkwood Ranch. It’s a 6-mile, one-way trip along the Snake River National Recreation Trail to reach the ranch that is staffed by volunteers and serves as a museum featuring the history of early homesteaders in the canyon and the much older history of Native Americans. 

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History of the Nez Perce on full display Nez Perce National Historical Park visitor center at Spalding is a good place to start if you’re interested in the story of Nimiipuu By KALI NELSON FOR DAYTRIPPING

The Nez Perce National Historical Park was established in 1965 and is made up of 38 sites, which tell the story of the Nimiipuu. The sites are spread across Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington, but the visitor center is located at Spalding. Before reaching the visitor center, those traveling east from Lewiston on U.S. Highway 95/12 can find Coyote’s Fishnet, which has a historical marker near milepost 307, and the Ant and the Yellowjacket, which also has a marker just east of the Spalding Bridge. Those are both natural formations that are part of Nez Perce lore. Spalding is about 12 miles east of Lewiston, located along U.S. Highway 95 less than a mile past where the highway crosses the Clearwater River via the Spalding Bridge. The Nez Perce National Historical Park visitor center and park headquarters are easily visible for those driving down the highway. The sites in the park include the Watson’s Store, the Spalding Presbyterian Church and the Northern Idaho Indian Agency’s cabin and agent’s residents. The visitor center is open from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and has year-round showings of the park film “Of One Heart” and offers a collection of clothing, tools, weapons and ceremonial objects in the museum area. There is no fee to visit the park. Travel a little past the historical center and cross a bridge to enjoy lunch outside at the picnic area or visit the Indian Agency cabin marker. There are two cemeteries at the Spalding site. Visitors are welcome, but are expected to follow the rules, including not standing on marked graves, not taking rubbings of the headstones, not touching the memorial items on the graves and no eating, drinking or recreational activities that are considered inappropriate. Visitors can also walk a

ABOVE: Kristina Kinney, 9, of Cottownwood, works on a coloring book at the Nez Perce National Historical Park’s visitor center on U.S. Highway 95 at Spalding. LEFT: A mother helps her daughter complete her junior ranger handbook at Nez Perce National Historical Park’s visitor center on U.S. Highway 95 at Spalding. Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

Nez Perce National Historical Park Lewiston

Spalding

Lapwai number of trails around the visitor center. The trails are all 1 mile or less and can take you to places like Lapwai Creek, the Watson’s Store, the Boomgrounds and the remains of the mission. The longest of the trails is the Old Townsite Trail, which is 1 mile long. It lies in the

grassy area below the visitor center and is a great location to see wildlife. The trail will show you two periods of occupation, the Nez Perce Indian agency and the homesteading. The agency was in use between 1860 to 1904 and the trail starts at the house of the superintendent

of the agency. This house is one of two buildings from the time standing. The homesteading can be found in clues like fruit trees, lilac bushes and an old root cellar. The next longest trail is a quick four-tenths of a mile

> See DISPLAY, Page 25

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Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

An image captured with a drone shows the Lapwai Mission Cemetery and picnic area at the Nez Perce National Historical Park’s visitor center.

Display

> Nez Perce National Historical Park visitor center

from Page 24 and is the Picnic Area Trail. The trail takes you through the Nez Perce village site and the Rev. Henry Spalding mission. The Idaho Legislature established the Spalding Memorial State Park in 1936 at the site of the old mission. There are two trails coming in at two-tenths of a mile apiece: the Boomgrounds Trail and the Lapwai Creek Trail. The Boomgrounds Trail is named after a logging term for a place where wood is collected. It offers views of the Clearwater River. The Lapwai Creek Trail will lead you along the creek to the gravel bar which overlooks where the creek joins the Clearwater River. The last trail is also the shortest, coming in at one-tenth of a mile: Watson’s Trail, which takes you off the main road, into the shade and then the Watson’s Store. The store was owned and operated by Lewis and Margaret Watson starting in 1910. It remained open until 1965. n

Austin Johnson/For Daytripping

A boy works through his junior ranger handbook identifying artifacts on display in the museum at the Nez Perce National Historical Park’s visitor center along U.S. Highway 95 at Spalding.

LOCATION: Located at Spalding, which is 12 miles east of Lewiston via U.S. Highway 95. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Walk along trails to see historic stores like the Indian Agency Cabin Marker and head into the visitor center to hear about the history of the Nez Perce Tribe. DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5, all trails are a mile or less and most are on level ground. DON’T FORGET: Head into the visitor center to see the museum and get more information on the area. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Coyote’s Fishnet historical marker, the Ant and the Yellowjacket historical marker, Spalding Presbyterian Church.

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Quite a view from on top of the Palouse Steptoe Butte offers spectacular panoramic views of the region’s rolling hills By ANTHONY KUIPERS

ABOVE: Steptoe Butte’s 3,612foot summit is seen from the base of Steptoe Butte State Park Road. Once known as Pyramid Peak, it was renamed after Col. Edward J. Steptoe, who fought in the nearby 1858 Battle of Rosalia.

FOR DAYTRIPPING

Any ranking of the best views of the Palouse has to include Steptoe Butte at or near the top of the list. Certainly it has the most farreaching views. At the top of the butte, one can look in any direction and see the green, yellow and brown Palouse hills stretch endlessly to the horizon. According to Washington State Parks, the eye can see 200 miles into Idaho and Oregon. On the right day, one can also look down upon hang gliders soaring through the air. The quartzite butte in Whitman County is some of the oldest rock in the Pacific Northwest. It was known as “the power mountain” and Pyramid Peak before being renamed to Steptoe Butte to honor Col. Edward Steptoe, who fought in the nearby 1858 Battle of Rosalia. Nearly two decades later, pioneer James S. “Cashup” Davis bought the land and built a wagon road to the summit. He built a two-story hotel on top of the butte in 1888 complete with a glass observatory and telescope. The hotel struggled to attract guests willing to ascend the 3,612-foot summit, but Cashup and his wife Mary Ann stayed there until they died in the 1890s. The hotel later burned to the ground in 1911 because of an apparent incident with a teenager and a cigarette. Virgil McCroskey later purchased the butte and secured the summit as a public park. He donated 120 acres to the state of Washington in 1945 and 1946. It became a formal state park on July 4, 1946. The National Park Service designated Steptoe Butte as a National Natural Landmark in 1965. Kent Bassett, of Bellevue, Wash.,

LEFT: A sign displays landmarks that can be seen from the summit in certain weather conditions. Zach Wilkinson/ For Daytripping

and Ray and Joan Folwell, of Pullman, sold a 437-acre parcel on the flanks of the butte to the Washington Department of Natural Resources last year, according to a Lewiston Tribune report. This transaction preserves the largest remaining swath of native Palouse prairie. It is currently a day-use park with camping options that’s approximately a 35-minute drive from Pullman. It is open from 8 a.m. to dusk, although a road and park improvement project is expected to be underway at Steptoe Butte in 2022. The park will be closed for several months during this process. n

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LOCATION: From Pullman, head north on U.S. 195 for 20 miles, turn right onto Scholz Road and keep right onto Hume Road for 4 miles before turning left onto Steptoe Butte State Park. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Camping, gazing at the panoramic Palouse view, bird-watching DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Camera, binoculars, camping gear.

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From the ashes rises a scenic oasis After a 1965 fire burned down a wellknown lumber mill — and nearly took the town of Winchester with it — a new state park was created By KATHY HEDBERG FOR DAYTRIPPING

At the site of what was once one of the largest stateof-the-art lumber mills in northern Idaho sits a placid state park tucked around the former mill pond. Winchester Lake State Park, located about 38 miles south of Lewiston, has been a popular draw for tourists since its establishment in 1969. The man-made lake formerly served as the mill pond for the Craig Mountain Lumber Co., founded in 1909 that, at its peak, produced 120,000 board feet of timber every 10 hours. After industry shutdowns during two world wars, the mill closed for good in 1965 following a fire that nearly destroyed the town of Winchester. Planning for the mill site to be converted into 12 a state park began the next year. Lewiston Winchester Lake State Park is surrounded by 95 Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir and the Winchester Lake lake is stocked with State Park rainbow trout, catfish, perch, bass, bluegill and tiger muskie. Winchester Hiking, nordic skiing, snowshoeing and mountain bike trails circle the 100-acre lake that has an average depth of 23 feet with the deepest point of 35 feet. There are also 46 serviced, 22 standard and three American with Disabilities Act campsites for picnickers and campers. Reservations can be made from Memorial Day through Labor Day for campsites and year-round for yurts. Canoes are also available for rent and small boats are allowed. Gas engines are not. During the summer months, classes and programs are often available, including junior ranger programs, wolf education and research center programs and first-time adventure programs. A small visitor’s center is located at the entrance to the park and the Museum of Winchester History is about a mile away in the town of Winchester. The museum tells the story of the frontier community carved out of heavily timbered landscape on the summer grounds of the Nez Perce people. Early photographs show the Craig Mountain Lumber Co. and the mill pond, as well as pictures of the construction of the Camas Prairie Railroad with its tunnels and trestles. Handwrought tools, clothing, household items and firefighting equipment document the struggles faced by the townspeople making a living on the edge of the Camas Prairie. n

ABOVE: A photo captured with a drone shows Winchester Lake after a snowstorm April 12. The man-made lake was created in the 1960s following a fire that burned down a lumber mill. LEFT: Gregg Presnell of Lewiston enjoys a cool day of fishing at Winchester Lake with clouds drifting by overhead during the summer of 2021. Austin Johnson, August Frank/For Daytripping

> Winchester Lake State Park LOCATION: 38 miles south of Lewiston. Turn west off U.S. Highway 95 onto Business Highway 95; drive 1 mile to the edge of the lake and follow the signs to 1786 Forest Road park entrance. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Fishing, camping, picnicking, hiking, boating, bird watching. DIFFICULTY: 1 out of 5 WATERING HOLES: Winchester Kitchen and Bar on Winchester Main Street. PARK AMENITIES: Auto touring/scenic routes; boat ramp and launch; boat rental (nonmotorized);

charcoal grills; dump station; electricity; fire rings; firewood sales; fish cleaning station; flush toilets; group picnic shelter; indoor showers; life jacket loaner station; paddle board rental; picnic areas; swimming; vault toilets and drinking water. FEES: $10 Idaho State Parks passport; other fees for services are available at: parksandrecreation. idaho.gov/parks/winchester-lake/fees/ CONTACT: (208) 924-7563 HOURS OF OPERATION: Day-use locations within state parks are open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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August Frank/Tribune

A man looks at the instructional panels at the White Bird Battlefield Overlook. The canyon was the site of the initial battle in the Nez Perce War of 1877.

History sewn in the soil of White Bird Canyon Rugged canyon was site of the famous 1877 battle that started the Nez Perce War By EMILY PEARCE

FOR DAYTRIPPING

On a drive not far from the Camas Prairie lies the White Bird Battlefield, a site that appeals to lovers of history and scenery. Cruising down the steep White Bird grade of U.S. Highway 95, travelers can see miles and miles of sagebrush, native grasses and the little town of White Bird at the bottom of the canyon. For a more adventurous journey, try the Old U.S. Highway 95 grade, which can be reached by turning off the current highway near the top of the grade. After the old grade was constructed in 1915, it was part of the

Grangeville

White Bird Battlefield White Bird 95

only north-south highway in Idaho, connecting Lewiston and many northern cities to southern towns for 60 years. The drive on the old highway isn’t for the faint-

> See SEWN, Page 29

August Frank/For Daytripping

The White Bird Battlefield stretches into the distance as seen from the overlook off of U.S. Highway 95.

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DAY T R I P P I N G

The White Bird Battleﬁeld trailhead is pictured.

Sewn from Page 28 hearted, with many loops, curves and lack of side railings. Putting together its many twists and turns, the pavement could make 37 complete circles, climbing 2,900 feet in 14 miles. Located 15 minutes south of Grangeville, White Bird Battlefield sits at the bottom of White Bird Canyon. A part of the Nez Perce National Historical Park’s 38 sites, the historical site offers a view into the past. There are two spots to view the battlefield. You can get a bird’seye view of the meadow from an overlook just off the current highway, or immerse fully at the bottom of the canyon, where you can hike around and view the landscape through the eyes of someone in 1877, fighting to keep their homeland. Looking over the hills and valleys on the White Bird grade, many wouldn’t know the rich history these groves and mounds remember. The hills below the overlook shelter are where the first battle of the Nez Perce War transpired, at dawn on June 17, 1877. The valley was once a part of the 17-millionacre homeland the Nez Perce Tribe lived on for thousands of years. With other uses in mind for the land, the American homesteaders saw it as an opportunity for mining, farming and logging. In 1855, a treaty was signed

> White Bird Battlefield LOCATION: Driving down U.S. Highway 95, 15 minutes south of Grangeville, peer out of your left-hand window. White Bird Battlefield is located on the White Bird grade, at the bottom of the canyon. Keep an eye out on the side of the road for the overlook shelter, where parking will be provided and many panels about the battlefield will be available to view. To visit the trailhead, continue driving south from the overlook and turn left on White Bird Road, then right on River Road

August Frank/For Daytripping

designating only a portion of the original land as a reservation. After gold was found on the land, the Treaty of 1863 reduced the size of the reservation by 90%. Many Nez Perce people did not understand the terms of the “Steal Treaty” and refused to leave their homeland. That’s what led to the conflict at White Bird between the U.S. Cavalry, local volunteers and the Nez Perce Tribe. Groups of U.S. Army Cavalry and volunteers formed on the left side of the valley. The forces rode down the slopes, and along the stream beyond the middle ridges stood the Nez Perce. Approaching the cavalry with a white flag in hand, a small delegation of Nez Perce people saluted. The cavalry wanted to convince the Native Americans to move onto the reservation, but the Nez Perce held their ground. Shots began to fire, erupting throughout the valley. In 10 minutes, the cavalry and volunteers began to retreat up the hills, running for their lives. Two or three Nez Perce people were wounded, and 34 soldiers were killed. Scattered across the meadow lay army guns and ammunition. Winning the fight, the Nez Perce packed up their camp and embarked on a treacherous journey. Although they had been victorious, they knew the U.S. Army would have a massive response to the battle. War was inevitable, and after the battle took place, the Nez Perce War began. 

and drive until you reach the marked area. WHAT YOU’LL DO: At the overlook, read about the history of the 1877 White Bird Battle. At the trailhead below, explore the bottom of White Bird Canyon. DIFFICULTY: 1 to 2 out of 5 DON’T FORGET: Sunscreen, hiking shoes, sun hat, water and a camera. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Nez Perce National Historical Park visitor center in Spalding.

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Lots happening at high-mountain retreat in Oregon

LEFT AND BELOW: Joe Jaquith, of Newberg, Ore., scoops up a rainbow trout as he fishes at Wallowa Lake outside Joseph, Ore., earlier this spring.

Wallowa Lake has drawn visitors for ages; these days, it features both outdoor and indoor attractions

August Frank/ For Daytripping

By MATT BANEY FOR DAYTRIPPING

High in the mountains of northeastern Oregon lies Wallowa Lake, a ribbon-shaped body of water people have been visiting for hundreds of years to catch a respite from the summer heat. These days, the 1,500-acre lake is the centerpiece of a state park. And while summer is still the most popular time to visit, the park is open to campers year-round and the nearby town of Joseph, Ore., is geared toward tourism throughout the year. Wallowa Lake State Park, located about 100 miles south of the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, offers a wide array of outdoor activities: camping, hiking, biking, fishing, boating, swimming and wildlife-spotting. And if members of your party decide they’ve had enough nature, there are also charming dining and shopping options. The area’s most notable feature might be the Wallowa Lake Tramway, which first opened in 1970 and is billed as the steepest gondola in America. Those who pay for tickets, which cost between $30 and $40 3 per person, get to ride 82 a tram car up a ridge E t Enterprise of Howard Mountain, gaining about 3,700 82 feet of elevation along the way. At Josephh the top (8,150 feet above sea level) is the Wallowa Summit Grill, which, Lake like the tramway, OREGON is open from May until early October. There are also some easy-to-navigate hiking trails at the top. Most visitors to the park will end up spending time at the lake, which is fed by glacial runoff from the surrounding Wallowa Mountains. The beautiful high-mountain setting must have appealed to the Nez Perce Tribe, which had bands that lived in the area before the encroachment of white settlers. It’s not hard to spend money at Wallowa, between the tramway, rental options, lodging and restaurants. But those looking for a cheap and simple outing can have that too, if they pack a lunch and stick to the free amenities the park offers. n

> Wallowa Lake State Park

August Frank/For Daytripping

A sign near the Wallowa Lake Trailhead warns people of the last time a bear was sighted in the area outside Joseph, Ore.

LOCATION: From the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, travel south on State Route 129 through Asotin, Anatone and over Rattlesnake Grade. The route becomes Highway 3 at the Oregon border. At Enterprise, Ore., turn east on Highway 82, which leads to Joseph, Ore., and the park. Total drive time is about 2 hours and 15 minutes. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Hiking, biking, fishing, boating, swimming and, if you’ve got the time, camping. DIFFICULTY: 1 to 3 out of 5, depending on what you do. Some visitors journey here for a low-stress picnic; others work up a sweat hiking, biking or paddling. DON’T FORGET: Water, snacks, camera, sunscreen ... and money. Even if you’re planning an economical trip, you’ll probably end up spending a few bucks. NEZ PERCE HOMELAND: The Wallowa Valley was part of the Nez Perce Tribe’s traditional homeland and was the home of the famous Chief Joseph. Last year, the tribe acquired a property called Am’sáaxpa, or place of the boulders, that is a traditional campsite where Joseph spent time before the War of 1877.

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Recreation abounds behind massive Dworshak Dam completed in 1973 created reservoir that can be enjoyed by boaters, campers, hikers and anglers By ANGELA PALERMO FOR DAYTRIPPING

Among the trees and meadows near Orofino lies the Dworshak Dam and Reservoir, a haven for boaters, campers, hikers and anglers alike. The dam, on the North Fork of the Clearwater River about 35 miles east of Lewiston, is the highest straight-axis, concrete gravity dam in North America and the largest of its type ever constructed by the Army Corps of Engineers, according to the Corps’ Northwestern Division. The 19,000-acre reservoir extends upstream for roughly 54 miles into the Clearwater National Forest in the Bitterroot Mountains. It was created after the dam was completed in 1973. Each summer, about 1 million acre-feet of water is released from deep below the reservoir’s surface to cool temperatures in the lower Snake River and help juvenile salmon and steelhead migrate to the Pacific Ocean. The Army Corps of Engineers, which operates the dam, is charged with flood control, power production and providing water downstream for fish produced at the Dworshak National Fish Hatchery. However, the fish-friendly operation lowers the reservoir by about 80 feet between July and September, cutting the summer recreation season short on the man-made lake. Those who head to the area for camping should plan to go before the end of July to avoid the muddy ring between the water and campsites, sometimes 100 feet or more. After the Fourth of July weekend, water at Dworshak — the third tallest dam in the U.S. — can start dropping at a rate of about 2 feet per day because of the annual drawdown. Roughly 30,000 acres of land surrounding the reservoir are used for public recreation, wildlife habitat and timber facilities. Dworshak State Park includes Freeman Creek Campground, Three Meadows Group Camp, and Big Eddy Lodge and Marina. Many campgrounds on the reservoir are accessible only by boat. Day-use locations within the park are open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. The dam’s visitor center is open five days a week during the spring, fall and winter, and seven days a week during the summer. Those seeking tour times may call the visitor center at (208) 476-1255. n

TOP: This photo taken with a drone shows Dworshak Dam and Reservoir near Orofino. Elk River

ABOVE: Marcia Trussell, left, keeps ahold of her fishing pole as Ted Mordhorst goes in with the net as they work to land a steelhead on the North Fork of the Clearwater River near Dworshak Dam in February 2021 in Ahsahka. After the steelhead swam back out, Trussell was able to bring it back into shore a second time where Mordhorst successfully netted the fish, which measured 36 inches. Austin Johnson, August Frank/For Daytripping

> Dworshak Dam and Reservoir

Dworshak Dam and Reservoir Headquarters 12

Orofino

LOCATION: From Orofino, travel west on Idaho Highway 7/Riverside Avenue for about 5 miles, then turn right on Viewpoint Road and drive 2½ miles to the main parking area near the top of the dam. Boat launches are available at other spots on the reservoir.

WHAT YOU’LL DO: Touring the dam, fishing, boating, camping and hiking. DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Fishing gear, fishing license, swimsuits, sunscreen, drinks and snacks. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Dworshak National Fish Hatchery, Nez Perce National Historic Trail.

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Wheat fields give way to forested trails Kamiak Butte County Park is a wooded oasis tucked into the farmland of Whitman County By ANGELA PALERMO FOR DAYTRIPPING

Kamiak Butte County Park boasts some of the only forested hiking trails in a region where agriculture reigns supreme. Located about 12 miles north of Pullman, the popular outdoor recreation area is designated a National Natural Landmark. Visitors who go during springtime can see the slopes blooming with colorful wildflowers and coniferous trees. The park’s amenities include a small camping area, picnic tables, bathrooms, a playground and 4 miles of wellgroomed trails for public use. The butte’s 3,641-foot summit boasts a panoramic view of the farmland below — a rolling patchwork of green and yellow in every direction. Hikers can wind between Douglas fir and ponderosa pine trees on a moderate 3½mile loop called Pine Ridge Trail to reach the top of the butte where a timbered ridge stands above the Palouse wheatfields east of Colfax. There’s also a newer westend primitive trail. Dogs are welcome but must be on a leash. In the 1987 book “100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest,” the Kamiak Butte Loop is listed as an unsung favorite, alongside other convenient trails that author Rich Landers said are so commonly used they’re often taken for granted. While Kamiak encompasses nearly 300 acres, the entire trail can be accomplished within 1-2 hours. With the trails and a playground, children have plenty of places to explore. The picnic area is located next to the parking lot, along with the restrooms. There are also four barbecue grills available for reservation. Camping is allowed in designated areas only for $15 a night. There are eight camping sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Shelter reservations should be made at least two weeks prior to visiting. The park is gated with no access in or out from dusk until 7 a.m. Visitors should check with Whitman County Parks, Recreation and Developmental Services Department for possible late-summer closures because of wildfire danger. n

> Kamiak Butte County Park LOCATION: From Pullman, travel northeast on State Route 27 for about 12 miles, turn left on Clear Creek Road, continue straight on Fugate Road and then turn left on Kamiak Butte Park Road to the parking area. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Hiking, camping, picnicking and wildlife spotting. DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 5. DON’T FORGET: Sunscreen, water and snacks. NEARBY SITES OF INTEREST: Steptoe Butte State Park, about 30 minutes from Kamiak Butte County Park when traveling by car. Washington State University in Pullman. WATERING HOLE: Paradise Creek Brewery in Pullman.

TOP: Richard Styer walks with his dog, Missy, a miniature schnauzer, along the Pine Ridge Trail at Kamiak Butte County Park. ABOVE: Kamiak Butte County Park overlooks the rolling hills of the Palouse. LEFT: Sunlight shines through a purple flower growing at Kamiak Butte County Park. Zach Wilkinson/For Daytripping

Daytripping, May 2022

Articles inside

White Bird Battlefi eld: History sewn in the soil of White Bird Canyon

Wallowa Lake State Park: Lots happening at high-mountain retreat

Pittsburg Landing: One way to drive to Hells Canyon

St. Gertrude’s Monastery: Repository of the past, a piece of history

Deer Creek Reservoir: Accessible angling in Clearwater County

Newman Lake: Natural diversion just outside Spokane

WSU Bear Center Face-to-face with bears ... in Cougar country

See what all the fuss is about: Check out Lower Granite Dam

Buffalo Eddy: Artwork that’s stood the test of millennia

Elk Creek Falls: A magical forest escape — rainbow included

Palouse Falls: A waterfall that’s worth the drive

Choose your own adventure cycling in Walla Walla