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Living With Fire
. . . in Lassen County
Fire is Natural to our Environment
Fire has been a natural part of Lassen’s environment for thousands of years. These historic fires were frequent, of low intensity, and a major influence on the appearance of our forests. Beginning in the 1870s, Lassen’s forests and the occurrence of fire started to change. Much of Lassen National Forest is considered a “fire environment.” It contains flammable vegetation and a climate to support fire. Fire is a natural process in the forest, and many of the plants growing here evolved in the presence of frequent fires. In fact, it is unnatural for fire to be absent for very long in many areas. Prior to European-American settlement, much of the forest burned, on average, every five to 18 years. Because these areas burned so often, large amounts of wildfire fuels could not build up. Consequently, these fires were usually of low intensity. The frequency and intensity of fire influences the type and health of the surrounding forests. The frequent, low-intensity fires prior to European-American settlement created an open, park-like forest. The photo at the bottom right corner is of a Defensible Fuel Profile Zone (DFPZ) done in the year 2004. Experts feel this is a good example of what Lassen’s original (prior to European-American settlement) forest looked like.
Low-intensity Fire Some the forests plants, such as Jeffrey and ponderosa pine, require the conditions present after a fire to germinate and grow.
Original Forest
Prior to 1870, low-intensity fires burned routinely in the forest. These fires created an open, patchy forest dominated by large trees. The raging, high-intensity wildfires portrayed in today’s newspaper headlines were uncommon.
1870
The low-intensity fires thinned out young trees and shrubs and also reduced the buildup of deep layers of pine needles, leaves, and twigs. The older, thick-barked trees survived this type of fire. As a result, the forest was dominated by patches of large, mature trees with a sparse understory.
This is no longer the case for Lassen’s forest.
Logging Era
Unsustainable logging operations in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s cleared the forest of the open, highly diverse forests.
1900
The New Forest
A new forest establishes in the aftermath of the logging era. But now, fire has been effectively eliminated as a natural influence. Without frequent, low-intensity fires to thin dense stands of trees, the forest becomes overcrowded.
2000
Lassen’s Timeline
DFPZ Pretreatment 2001 2
Post Treatment 2007
2008 Wildfires
Lassen’s Current Forest and Fire Threat... Today’s forest is much different than the forest that existed prior to 1870. The low elevation mixed conifer forest of Lassen County, where most homes are located, has four times more understory trees today than it did prior to 1870. In addition, there has been a substantial increase in the amount of shrubs present. There has been a considerable increase in the density of trees and shrubs in the understory. A major cause of the increase in woody plants has been the lack of frequent, low- intensity fires. With European-American settlement, these fires were effectively suppressed.
High-intensity Fire
Under these unnatural conditions, uncontrollable, high-intensity fires are much more likely. The Moonlight and Wheeler Complex Fires are recent examples of these types of fires in the area. Furthermore, the forest is less healthy and more susceptible to disease and insects, particularly during drought. Unfortunately, given Lassen’s current conditions, homes and lives are at risk.
Dense stands of trees are more likely to be stressed during drought and are often more vulnerable to disease and insects.
Lassen Today... Today’s Forest The current forest is typically thick with trees, brush and dead vegetation. In many areas, fire has been absent for over a hundred years. As a result, there has been a great buildup of wildfire fuel. Homes have been added to the wildfire fuel mix. The likelihood for uncontrollable, high-intensity wildfire that impacts watersheds, destroys neighborhoods, and takes human life is high in many areas of Lassen County.
Pittville DFPZ
The green trees you see in the background of this photo is the Pittville DFPZ. The fire dropped to the forest floor when it hit the DFPZ. For more information, visit the HFLQG home page at: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/hfqlg/
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Homeowners need to prepare for wildfire... Fact: California law (PRC 4291) requires property owners and/or occupants to create 100 feet of DEFENSIBLE SPACE around homes and buildings. Fact: Proper defensible space clearance to 100 feet dramatically increases the chance of your house surviving a wildfire. Fact: The Lassen Fire Safe Council website is a great resource for Lassen County. http://www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org
Living in a High Wildfire Hazard Area
The potential for loss of human life and property due to wildfire in Lassen county is growing. The Lassen County Fire Safe Council’s purpose is to teach people how to live more safely with the threat of wildfire. For Lassen, it is not a question of “if ” a wildfire will occur, but “when” it will occur.
Who Wins, Who Loses...
Why do some houses survive a wildfire, while others are destroyed? Research findings prove that house survival during wildfire is not random, miraculous or “dumb luck.” Rather, it is how the house is built, the characteristics of the adjacent vegetation and other fuels, and routine maintenance that often determine which burn and which survive. These types of actions are called “pre-fire” activities. Pre-fire activities are actions completed before a wildfire occurs that improve the survivability of people and the house. The “winners” will be the people who implement pre-fire activities. The homeowner is the most important person in
preventing a house from being destroyed by wildfire. It is the actions that a homeowner takes before a wildfire occurs that are critical.
HUMAN BEHAVIOR IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS FIRE BEHAVIOR IN SAVING YOUR HOME! BEFORE THE FIRE
DURING THE FIRE
AFTER THE FIRE Photo courtesy of Candice Towell and the RG-J
Prior to the fire, this homeowner changed the roof material from wood shakes to fire-resistant tiles and reduced the amount of flammable vegetation surrounding the home. These pre-fire activities helped this house survive the fire.
Wildfire will threaten your house in three ways…
RADIATED HEAT
Radiated heat melted the vinyl siding on this house. Flames never came in contact with it. Radiated heat is produced by invisible electromagnetic waves that travel out in all directions from a flame. When a house receives enough radiated heat for a sufficient amount of time, it will ignite. Sometimes radiated heat can burst windows and allow burning embers to enter the house.
Photo courtesy of Mike Dannenberg
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Photo courtesy of Ben Hammack
Photo courtesy of Ben Hammack
CONTACT BY FLAMES
This type of threat occurs when vegetation and other fuels burning near the house produce flames that come in contact with the home and ignite it. Often, it happens when fire burns through a uniform layer of vegetation right up to the house. Direct contact by flames is probably what most homeowners visualize when they think of a house burning during wildfire.
FLYING EMBERS
More houses burn due to flying embers than any other reason. If fire conditions are right, embers can be lofted high into the air and transported more than a mile. Burning embers can also be carried by wind and fire whirls. If these burning embers land in easily ignitable materials, a new fire can start.
Want to Burn Your Yard Debris? Residents in Lassen County are urged to do their debris burning during winter or early spring, but be careful as we transition from spring to early summer. Escaped debris burns are the number one cause of human caused wildfires in Lassen County. Escaped debris burns are often the result of a pile or burn barrel left unattended or burning when windy. Debris burning can be a very effective means of reducing fire hazards around your home and land if handled properly and safely. However, remember that the person doing the burning is financially responsible for suppression costs and damages if the debris burn escapes. Also remember that burning out of hours could result in an emergency fire dispatch to your home, in which you may be cited and charged for the personnel and equipment time. Burning Permits are required beginning May 1st through June 30th. A burn ban is in effect from July 1st until the end of declared Fire Season or lifted by the Lassen-Modoc-Plumas Cal-Fire Unit Chief. This generally occurs at the beginning of November.
Please follow these fire-safe guidelines while burning: •
Green or wet vegetation should be dried 3-6 weeks before burning to reduce your smoke impact on the community. Fire Prevention Specialists recommend covering your burn piles with plastic or similar material in the fall before the rain to allow for easy ignition of the piles during very wet weather.
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Keep pile size at 4 feet in diameter or less. If burn piles are larger than 4’ x 4’ , contact your local Cal-Fire station to obtain a special permit.
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Make sure area within 10 feet of outer edge of pile is free and clear of any vegetation on the ground. Construct your control lines down to mineral soil.
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An adult must be in attendance with a shovel until the fire is dead out.
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A water supply is required at the burning site.
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Don’t burn when windy.
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Have in possession a valid burning permit.
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Make sure your fire is out! Check the burn area before leaving it, even after you think it is dead out.
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Burn only on days approved by the Lassen County Air Pollution Control District. Call either of the following numbers to find out if it is a permissive burn day: Lassen County APCD-(530) 251-8110 Air Resources Board-(916)-445-0747
To obtain a permit or have your questions answered regarding residential burning, please call or visit your local Cal-Fire, Forest Service, BLM office or community fire station. Also, be aware that there are other cost effective and safer methods of disposing unwanted vegetative materials on your property. You can take your vegetative debris to the Bass Hill landfill and a number of other waste transfer stations located throughout Lassen County for free disposal. To find a facility nearest you, call the Lassen Regional Solid Waste Management Authority at (530) 252-1273.
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Addressing Wildfires in California THE BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT’S “TAKE RESPONSIBILITY CAMPAIGN” Wildland fires are not new to California. What is new is the number of homes being built in the Wildland urban interface (WUI). While numbers vary, a September 2007 article at ScienceDaily.com cites that an estimated 41 percent of homes in California lie in WUI zones, with 3.2 million homes at significant risk from wildfires, according to a report from the Government Accountability Office. Because of this, when fires sweep our state, the impact can be devastating. To help prevent the spreading of wildfires in key WUI areas, the BLM is launching the “Take Responsibility” campaign to reach homeowners about the importance of creating and maintaining 100 feet of defensible space around their homes and structures. Defensible space is the area around a home or structure that has been treated to reduce fire danger and reduce the risk of a fire spreading.
TIP SHEET
Help Prevent Wildfires From Spreading •
Design and build your home with fire resistant materials and ensure all projects are maintained to code including the construction, landscape and all electrical components.
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Install residential sprinklers and maintain an emergency water supply that meets fire department standards.
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Avoid using gas or electrical yard equipment in the heat of the day or when the wind is blowing.
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Create a defensible space around your home by following five easy steps: 33 Remove dead shrubs, dried grass, fallen branches and dried leaves from 100 feet around your house. 33 Trim and separate plants and shrubs to stop fire from spreading. 33 Remove ladder fuels which are plants, shrubs and branches that let a fire on the ground climb into the trees.
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Outside the home, cover windows, attic openings, eave vents, and sub-floor vents with materials that will slow a fire, such as ½ inch or thicker plywood.
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Place lawn sprinklers on flammable roofs, but do not turn them on unless the fire is an immediate threat.
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Remove your curtains and drapes. If you have metal blinds or special fire resistant window coverings, close them to block heat.
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Stay inside your house, away from outside walls. Close all doors, but leave them unlocked.
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Keep your entire family together and remain calm.
MYTH OR FACT?
Defensible space is particularly important for homes built in a wildland urban interface (WUI) — the area where structures meet with undeveloped wildland. The WUI creates an environment in which fire can move easily between structural and vegetation fuels and increases the likelihood that wildfires will threaten homes and people.
33 Clear five feet around the base of your house and fill it with fire resistant plants or materials like rocks or gravel.
It’s not a myth — there are things that can be done to help protect homes from wildfires. Take responsibility, learn the facts and myths, and protect your home by creating defensible space!
33 Take care of the clean, open space 100 feet around your home on a regular basis.
MYTH: It doesn’t matter what I do, wildfires will come and destroy all that is in their path.
Be Prepared If a Wildfire Occurs •
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First, if you see a fire approaching your home, report it immediately by dialing 9-1-1. Next, wear long pants and cotton or wool long-sleeve shirts to prevent burns and lifelong scars.
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Shut off liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or natural gas valves inside your home.
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Move inside and outside furniture away from the house, windows and sliding glass doors to keep them from catching fire.
FACT: It does matter. Making a clean, open space 100 feet around your home can help save it and your family and pets. MYTH: If there is a wildfire and my home is in danger, firefighters will do all they can to save it. FACT: Firefighters and emergency professionals do all they can to stop wildfires, but they have to be smart and they will look for homes and buildings that are easier to protect. Homes with defensible space are the homes that firefighters look for, because they are safer to go near. MYTH: It is against the law to remove trees and vegetation.
Visit the Lassen County Fire Safe Council Website at http://www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org 6
Addressing Wildfires in California FACT: Laws about removing trees and shrubs are different across the state. Contact your local fire station and ask what you can do and work with them to solve any problems. MYTH: It is expensive to create and keep a defensible space around my property. FACT: It doesn’t have to be expensive to create and maintain defensible space. Removing dead trees, plants and leaves and thinning shrubs and trees can be very affordable. It is also important to remove ladder fuels.
Ladder fuels are low tree branches and shrubs under trees that allow a fire to climb higher and spread faster. MYTH: Creating 100 feet of defensible space around my property will not allow me to have a nice yard. FACT: Correctly done, your yard can look great and contribute to the health and variety of natural areas. For more information, visit www.CAFireAlliance.com.
Lassen County’s Firewise Recognized Communities Lassen County Fire Safe Council is very active in the practice of the Firewise philosophy. Many Lassen County communities have already become recognized as a Firewise Community/USA. These include the Susanville, Janesville, Stones-Bengard and the Day Lassen Bench communities. To become recognized as Firewise Community/USA, all you need to do is practice the Firewise Communities/USA goals. Firewise Communities/USA is a unique opportunity available to America’s fire-prone communities. Its goal is to encourage and
acknowledge action that minimizes home loss to wildfire. It teaches you to prepare for a fire before it occurs. The program adapts especially well to small communities, developments and residential associations of all types. Firewise Communities/USA is a simple, three-legged template that is easily adapted to different locales. It works in the following way: * Wildland fire staff from federal, state or local agencies provide a community with
information about coexisting with wildfire along with mitigation information tailored to that specific area. * The community assesses its risk and creates its own network of cooperating homeowners, agencies and organizations. * The community identifies and implements local solutions. Contact the Lassen County Fire Safe Council to learn more about becoming a Firewise Community/USA. 7
Around the Firewise Home The One, Two, Three of Firewise Landscaping By Rachel Henry
Landscaping is what makes a house truly a home. It is able to be both beautiful and give
the house character. However, it is important to remember that it must be done safely and with adherence to the possible dangers of fire. This can be made easier by recognizing the three zones around one’s house and how to work with them. The first zone begins at the home and stretches outwards and it is the area within the first five to six feet from the foundation that is the most critical. This area is often densely populated by vegetation, flowers, and other decorative features. Keeping a clean and clear area around the foundation will reduce the chances of small ignition opportunities. Any walls near the house or bordering a garden would benefit from being made from brick, stone or plaster, all of which are fire resistant. In addition, enclaves and soffits on the house should be enclosed, and skylights and other windows should be covered with glass, not plastic. Decks and porches should not be open, but rather fenced in with 1/8” wire mesh. Landscape architect Randall Ismay points out that when planning the layout of vegetation in the area closest to the house, it is “important to keep in mind water access. Small ponds or the choosing of plants that hold water well are important as water is a natural fire deterrent.” Potted plants are another great way, Ismay emphasizes, to decorate the area surrounding the house, while having drought resistant vegetation. Flowers and plants chosen for the area closest to the home should be low to the ground and the lawn should be mowed regularly. Homeowners should feel free to pick whatever vegetation they feel adds to their home landscape, but bear in mind the resin, oil and wax levels of those chosen as these are most susceptible to fire. Wildfires that break out near houses spread even quicker when flowers and grasses are dry and lacking hydration. The second zone of landscaping is the area five to thirty feet from the home; this area usually encompasses the lawn, any walkways or driveways and an assortment of trees. When looking at this section it is good to make sure trees are spaced apart about thirty feet or so if they are in clusters, or twenty feet if they are solitary. The fuels in this area should be broken up by having walkways or driveways in between the assortment of trees. Gravel is a great choice for walkways and is aesthetically pleasing. Breaking up trees and other fuels by pathways interrupts the continuity of the fuels that allows fires to spread. Zone three is thirty to one hundred feet from the home. This area needs only to be cleared of debris such as wood and branches to make the landscape look clean and well tended, but also lessen the spread of fire. Basic layouts aside, it is also important to remember that the landscape around one’s home should reflect the lifestyle of the owners. A beautiful landscape that requires too much attention for those that are out and about might not be the best pick. It is also worth mentioning that while the cost of creating a landscape should be considered, the real cost lies in maintenance. Once you have laid out your landscape according to the three zones, have picked out fire safe plants, and done the final trimming on your trees and other vegetation, feel free to lay back and enjoy. Sources: “Firewise Guide to Landscape and Construction”, “Communities Compatible with Nature” and “American Perspectives on the Wildland/ Urban Interface”. All products available for the cost of shipping and handling at www. firewise.org. About the author: Ms. Henry is a sophomore at Loyola University Chicago. She is interested in communication studies and journalism in addition to cultural anthropology. She is an avid writer and interested in writing on most subjects. 8
Around the Firewise Home (Continued) Assessment and Maintenance: Motivating Seasonal Residents For some members of your community, summertime (or wintertime) is the only time they live in their homes. While they may not be able to tend to their properties year-round, their participation in Firewise activities and in adopting Firewise practices can prove critical in the event of a wildfire. For many communities, summer also happens to be high season, when homes and property are most susceptible to the rages of wildfire. So what’s a community to do to effectively engage their part-time neighbors? Following are some strategies that have worked for Firewise communities like yours when dealing with seasonal residents, along with some other suggestions that also may prove helpful. 3 Reach out to your seasonal neighbors with a goodie bag containing Firewise and fire prevention information; copies of any pertinent rules/codes that may exist as part of a homeowner’s association and/or any relevant newspaper clippings pertaining to wildfire in the area or Firewise activities that have taken place in their absence; and a magnet or phone card listing key telephone, e-mail, and Internet information concerning local Firewise contacts and other relevant resources, along with a letter welcoming them back to the community that includes details about any upcoming events in which they can participate.
to assure that they are aware of the risks posed specifically to their home and property, and are provided with helpful suggestions for addressing them.Create a buddy system linking a year-round resident with a seasonal resident through which the seasonal resident can be apprised of wildfire issues or concerns that may arise in their absence.
3 Invite a Firewise expert to speak to your community during a time when seasonal residents are present. 3 Stage a demonstration of useful Firewise practices as part of a larger event. 3 Establish an annual day (for chipping, evaluating defensible space, clearing brush/downfall) that will encourage participation from seasonal residents.
3 Establish a website and/or MyFirewise page for your community, so that all members of the community can keep abreast of important information pertaining to your Firewise efforts. 3 Hold an event for the entire community, including information with relevant tips for seasonal residents. 3 Working with your state forestry agency, arrange special property assessments for seasonal residents,
3 Develop a relationship with local media contacts (at newspaper and/or local or cable access TV) who can provide timely coverage of activities and wildfire-related issues. 3 Create a periodic newsletter (monthly, bimonthly, or quarterly) to address issues specifically pertinent to your community’s wildfire concerns and Firewise efforts. You can post it on your website or also provide it in print format, making it accessible to all residents, no matter where they may be when they read it.
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Establish an annual award presented to a yearround and a seasonal resident, recognizing them for their exemplary Firewise efforts or leadership.
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Access Zone
Home Address: To facilitate fire location and to avoid delays in response, the home address should be readily visible from the traveled roadway. The address sign should be made of highly reflective, noncombustible material with characters a minimum of 3 inches high. The Lassen County Building Division recommends that the characters should be 6 inches high.
Turnarounds: Homes located at the end of private driveways greater than 200 feet in length must comply with Fire Standard #7. Fire Standard #7 requires a minimum 35 foot radius for turnarounds or 70 foot wide “hammerheads� 35 feet from centerline with a radius of 30 feet. 10
Road Width and Grade: Private roads and driveways over 200 feet must be at least 16 feet wide with a steepness grade limited to 12%. Any grade in excess of 12 % shall be paved with asphalt or concrete. Roads and driveways less than 200 feet must be at least 12 feet wide.
Driveway Vertical Clearance: Overhead obstructions, such as overhanging branches and power lines, should be removed or raised to provide an unobstructed vertical clearance of at least 15-feet along the entire width and length of the driveway. Flammable vegetation should be cleared at least 10 feet from both sides of the driveway.
Turnouts: The placement and number of turnouts are to be determined by the County Fire Warden and/or responsible fire agency. If adequate turnouts are provided, the road width can be reduced to 12 feet. Turnouts should be of a sufficient length and width to park a fire engine.
Street Signs: Street signs should be posted at each intersection leading to your home. Each sign should feature characters that are at least 6 inches high and should be made of highly reflective, noncombustible material. Color combination for signs on private roads shall be black letters on white background. On County Roads the signs are white letters on green background.
Gated Driveways: Electronically operated driveway gates require key access for local fire districts and departments.
Bridges and Culverts: Inadequately built bridges and culverts may prevent fire fighting equipment from reaching your home. Driveways 200 feet to 1/4 mile in length shall have all bridges and culverts designed to a minimum of AASHTO HS15-44 standards, and alternate loading and seismic zone 3. Driveways over 1/4 mile in length shall have all bridges and culverts designed to a minimum of AASHTO HS20-44, and alternate loading and seismic zone 3. The traffic lane width over bridges and culverts must be the same as the required road width above. 11
Defensible Space Zones Wildland Fuel Reduction Area: The Wildland Fuel Reduction Area lies 30 to 100 feet or more from the home and often consists of naturally occurring plants (pine trees, manzanita, sagebrush, etc.). Within this area: • Remove dead vegetation, including dead shrubs, dried grass, fallen branches, thick accumulations of needles and leaves, etc. • Remove “ladder fuels” by removing low tree branches up to a minimum of 10 feet from the ground and shrubs under the trees.
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Lean, Clean and Green Area: For a distance of 5 feet to 30 feet from the home, there should be a Lean, Clean and Green Area. “Lean” indicates that only a small amount of flammable vegetation, if any, is present within 30 feet of the house. “Clean” means there is little or no accumulation of dead vegetation or flammable debris within the area during fire season. “Green” implies that plants located within this area are kept healthy, green and irrigated during fire season. For most homeowners, the Lean, Clean and Green Area is the residential landscape. This area often has irrigation, contains ornamental plants, and is routinely maintained.
Noncombustible Area: Create a Noncombustible Area at least 5 feet wide around the base of your home. This area needs to have a very low potential for ignition from flying embers. Use irrigated herbaceous plants, such as lawn, ground cover and flowers that are recommended for the this area; rock mulches; or hard surfaces, such as brick and pavers, in this area. Keep it free of woodpiles, wood mulches, dead plants, dried leaves and needles, flammable shrubs (such as juniper), and debris.
See Page 14, Seven Steps to Creating an Effective Defensible Space 13
Home Ignition Zone Eaves: The eaves of a home act as a heat trap for hot air and gases, greatly increasing the chance of ignition. Covering the underside of the eave with a soffit, or “boxing in� the eave, allows the heat to escape. Enclose eaves with fiber cement board or 5/8-inch-thick, high-grade plywood.
Chimneys: Chimney and stovepipe openings should be screened with an approved spark arrestor cap.
Exterior Siding: Wood products, such as boards, panels and shingles, are common siding materials. However, they are combustible and not good choices for fire-prone areas. Noncombustible siding materials, such as stucco, brick, stone and cement board, are better choices. Log homes that utilize fire-rated chinking or notched logs are also good choices.
Windows: Windows are one of the weakest parts of a home and usually break before the structure ignites. This allows burning embers and heat to enter the home, which may lead to internal ignition. Single-paned and large windows are particularly vulnerable. In high fire hazard areas, install windows that are at least double-paned and that utilize tempered glass for the exterior pane. The type of window frame (wood, aluminum or vinyl) is not critical. If using vinyl, make sure it has metal reinforcement members. Closable, solid exterior shutters can provide additional window protection.
Vents: Attic, soffit and foundation vents on homes are potential entry points for flying embers. All vent openings need to be covered with 1/4-inch or smaller noncorrosive wire mesh. Do not use fiberglass or plastic mesh because they can melt or burn. Covering vents with 1/8-inch noncorrosive metal mesh is preferred, but the mesh is easily clogged and requires more maintenance. Do not permanently cover vents, as they play a critical role in preventing wood rot in the house.
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Rain Gutters: Rain gutters trap flying embers. Always keep your rain gutters free of leaves, needles and debris. Check and clean them several times during fire season. Gutter covers can help, but still require maintenance. In some instances, rain gutters can be removed as long as roof runoff water can be carried away without damaging the house exterior or foundation, and without causing erosion. In the event of a wildland fire, it is good practice to plug your gutters and fill with water
Wooden Fence: If a wooden fence is attached to the house, replace at least the first 5 feet nearest to the house with a noncombustible section of fencing, such as brick, rock or metal. As an alternative, consider installing a noncombustible gate at this location.
Roof: Homes with wood-shake or shingle roofs are much more likely to be destroyed during a wildfire than homes with fire-resistant roofs. If you have a wood-shake or shingle roof, consider replacing it with a Class-A fire-resistant type. Fire-resistant roofing materials include composition, cement, metal and tile. Contact the local fire district or department about roofing requirements for your area. Openings in the roof materials, such as the open ends of barrel tiles, should be plugged to prevent ember entry and debris accumulation. Regardless of the type of roof you have, keep it free of fallen leaves, needles and branches.
Firewood: Firewood stacks should be located at least 30 feet from the home. If the stacks are stored uphill from the house, make sure that burning firewood cannot roll downhill and ignite the home.
Flammable Items: Keep the porch, deck and other areas of the home free of easily combustible materials, such as baskets, furniture cushions, umbrellas, flags, streamers, etc., dried flower arrangements, newspapers, pine needles and debris.
Decks: Decks using wood and nonfire-resistantrated wood-plastic materials are combustible. Consider replacing them with newer fireresistant-rated types. Routinely remove debris (needles, leaves, twigs, etc.) from the gaps between deck boards. Replace deck materials in poor condition. The sides below low decks should be enclosed with fire-resistant materials and properly vented. However, this may result in increased land coverage for your property and may require a permit. As an alternative, enclose the deck sides with 1/4-inch or smaller wire mesh to prevent debris from accumulating underneath. The area under higher decks should be kept free of combustible materials.
California property owners... new construction must use approved, fire-resistant materials. For more information, go to http://osfm.fire.ca.gov/sfmfirecagov.html. 15
Photo courtesy of John Cobourn
Seven Steps to Creating an Effective Defensible Space
Defensible space distance is measured from the base of the house, extending outward.
Recommended Defensible Space Distance Flat to Moderately Gently Sloping Steep
Through proper planning, an effective defensible space can be attractive and control soil erosion.
The term “defensible space” refers to the area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been managed to reduce the wildfire threat. In the event that firefighters are not available, defensible space also improves the likelihood of a house surviving without assistance. Fortunately for local homeowners, there are a variety of resources available to assist them in creating defensible space. Local fire districts and departments will conduct free defensible space inspections. The Lassen County Fire Safe Council can help organize your neighborhood to take action in reducing the wildfire threat and possibly fund defensible space projects. Advice on integrating defensible space practices with Best Management Practices (BMPs) and other landscape management topics can be provided by the Conservation Districts and Cooperative Extension in conjunction with fire professionals.
21-40%
+40%
Grass
100 feet
100 feet
100 feet
Shrubs and Woodland
100 feet
200 feet
200 feet
Trees
100 feet
100 feet
200 feet
Sagebrush, manzanita and mountain mahogany
Photo courtesy of Mike Dannenberg
Forest trees, such as fir and pine. If there’s a substantial shrub understory, use those values stated above.
Step One
The size of the defensible space is usually expressed as a distance extending outward from the house in all directions. The recommended distance is not the same for every home. It varies depending on the dominant vegetation surrounding the home and steepness of slope. Use the Recommended Defensible Space Distance table to determine the right size for your home. Once the recommended distance for defensible space is known, mark it by tying strips of cloth or flagging to shrubs. This becomes the “Defensible Space Zone.” If the Defensible Space Zone exceeds your property boundaries, seek permission from adjacent landowners before doing work on their property. It is important to note that the effectiveness of the Defensible Space Zone improves when entire neighborhoods implement defensible space practices.
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0-20%
Dry grass and weeds
Make your house safe to defend.
Determine the size of an effective defensible space:
Very Steep
Step Two
Remove dead vegetation: For the most part, dead vegetation should be removed from the Defensible Space Zone. Dead vegetation includes dead and dying standing trees or recently fallen trees; dead native and ornamental shrubs; dead branches; dried grass, weeds and flowers. Fallen trees embedded into the ground and located more than 30 feet from the house can be left in place, with exposed branches removed. Regarding fallen needles and leaves: • Within 5 feet of the house, remove routinely throughout fire season. • From 5 feet to 30 feet of the house, remove every spring by May 1. Needles and leaves that fall after the spring removal period can accumulate on the ground as long as they do not create a fire hazard. • More than 30 feet from the house, do not allow fallen needles and leaves to exceed a depth of 3 inches.
Remove routinely
Remove every spring
5 feet
Maintain at less than 3 inches
30 feet
Needle and Leaf Removal
Photos courtesy of Jennifer Arrowsmith
Step Three
Create a separation between trees and shrubs: Within the
Defensible Space Zone, native trees and shrubs, such as Jeffrey pine, white fir, and manzanita, should not occur in a dense stand. Dense stands of trees and shrubs pose a significant wildfire threat. Thin dense tree and shrub stands to create more space between them.
Before
Step Four Remove ladder fuels:
Vegetation that can carry a fire burning in lowgrowing plants to taller plants is called “ladder fuel.” Lower tree branches should be removed to a height of at least 10 feet. Shrubs and trees growing under the drip line should also be removed. Irrigated, well-maintained lawn and flower beds, as well as low-growing native ground covers can be present under the tree’s drip line as long as they would not allow a fire to ignite the tree. Removal of tree branches should not exceed one third of the total tree height.
After Dense shrub fields pose a significant fire threat.
2x
Drip line
10 feet
x
Drip line
Sagebrush, Manzanita, Huckleberry Oak, Other Shrubs: On flat to gently sloping terrain more than 30 feet from the house, individual shrubs or small clumps of shrubs within the Defensible Space Zone should be separated from one another by at least twice the height of the average shrub. For example, if the typical shrub height is 2 feet, there should be a separation between shrub branches of at least 4 feet. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separation distance should be greater. Remove shrubs or prune them to reduce their height and/or diameter. See Step 5 for shrub management recommendations within 30 feet of the house.
10 feet
Remove ladder fuels to a height of 10 feet.
Ladder Fuels
Forest Trees: On flat to gently sloping terrain more than 30 feet from the house, trees should be thinned to provide an average separation between the canopies of at least 10 feet. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separation distance should be greater. Within 30 feet of the house, tree canopies should be separated by 10 feet to 30 feet. Contact your local fire professionals or the Lassen County Fire Safe Council for more information. 17
Step Five
Step Six
Create a Lean, Clean and Green Area extending 5 feet to 30 feet from the house: There are two goals for the Lean, Clean
Create a Noncombustible Area at least 5 feet wide around the base of the house: The area immediately adjacent to a house is of critical importance to house survival during
and Green Area. The first goal is to eliminate easily ignitable fuels, or “kindling,” near the house. This will help prevent embers from starting a fire in your yard. The second goal is to keep fire intensity low if it does ignite near the house. By proper management of the vegetation and other fuels near the house, a fire would not be able to generate enough heat to ignite the home. For most homeowners, the Lean, Clean and Green Area is also the residential landscape. This area often has irrigation, is planted with ornamental vegetation, and is regularly maintained.
Lean, Clean and Green Area Tips
a wildfire. It should consist of noncombustible landscape materials and ignition-resistant, lowvolume plants.
Noncombustible Area Tips • Remove dead shrubs and trees; dried grass, fl owers and weeds; dead branches; and fi rewood from this area. • Routinely remove fallen needles and leaves.
Cerro Grande Fire 2000
• Do not use bark and wood mulches. • Do not use wood landscape timbers or boards. • Remove fl ammable shrubs and trees. This includes native plants, such as big sagebrush, bitterbrush, green leaf manzanita, snowbrush, rabbitbrush, huckleberry oak, pine and fir. Ornamental plants that should be removed or not planted in this area include evergreens (juniper, mugo pine, arborvitae, etc.), Scotch broom and large exotic grasses. When removing plants, leave their root systems in place.
• Remove dead shrubs and trees; dried grass, flowers and weeds; dead branches; and firewood from this area.
• Noncombustible landscape materials, such as gravel, rock and brick, are acceptable.
• Remove fallen needles and leaves every spring by May 1.
• Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated, deciduous shrubs recommended for this area as individual specimens or in small groups. Prune these shrubs to remove branches in contact with the ground and sides of the house.
• Native shrubs should be substantially reduced in this area. Individual specimens or small groups can be retained as long as they are kept healthy and vigorous, pruned to reduce height and amount, and would not allow a fire to travel rapidly across the area. When removing shrubs, leave the root systems in place. Low-growing native shrubs, such as pinemat manzanita and Mahala mat, can be retained. • Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated, herbaceous plants, such as lawn, clover, erosion-control grasses, flowers, some ground covers and succulents, that are recommended for this area. • Ornamental, deciduous trees and shrubs can be used as specimens or in small groups. They should be irrigated, kept healthy and vigorous, free of dead leaves and wood, and arranged so that they could not rapidly transmit fire across the area. Deciduous trees should be placed so that their mature canopy can be easily maintained at a distance of at least 10 feet from other trees and the house. Shorter deciduous shrubs are preferred. • Ornamental evergreen shrubs and trees, such as juniper, mugo pine, Austrian pine and others, should not be used within this area. • Clear all fl ammable vegetation from within 10 feet of the propane tank. • Remove tree limbs that are within 10 feet of the chimney, house, deck and roof. Remove limbs that are encroaching on power lines.
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• Do not plant shrubs under fi rst-story windows, under soffi t vents, in front of foundation vents, or in corners. • Use trellises made of noncombustible materials.
Photo courtesy of Mike Dannenberg
• Wood and bark mulches can be used in this area, but not in a widespread manner. Areas of wood and bark mulches should be separated by noncombustible materials, such as irrigated lawn, clover, erosion-control grasses and flowers, gravel, and rock, and arranged so that they would not allow a fire to travel rapidly across the area.
• Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated, herbaceous plants, such as lawn, clover, erosion- control grasses, flowers, some ground covers and succulents, that are recommended for this area.
During a wildfire, airborne embers may land and accumulate in the area next to the house. Avoid using combustible materials, such as wood mulch, and flammable plants, such as juniper, within 5 feet of the home.
Erosion-control grasses and wildflowers are good choices for the Lean, Clean and Green Area. When dry, they should be mowed.
Step Seven
Maintain the Defensible Space Zone:
Maintaining a defensible space is an ongoing activity. Plants grow back, and flammable vegetation needs to be routinely removed and disposed of properly. Before each fire season, reevaluate your property using the previous six steps and implement the necessary defensible space recommendations.
Little Green Gas Cans Firefighters often refer to ornamental junipers as “little green gas cans.” During a wildfire involving homes, embers can smolder undetected under ornamental junipers. The junipers can then ignite and burn intensely. Planting ornamental junipers next to your house is never a good idea. Keep these "little green gas cans" at least 30 feet from the house or replace them with low-growing deciduous shrubs, herbaceous flowers, rock mulches and hard surfaces.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE
WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Defensible space is the area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified to reduce the wildfire threat. Sometimes, a defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properly maintained backyard.
Photo courtesy of Mike Dannenberg
WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT? Many people do not view the plants growing on their property as a threat. But in terms of wildfire, the vegetation adjacent to their homes can have considerable influence upon the survivability of their houses. All vegetation, including plants native to the area and ornamental plants, is potential wildfire fuel. If vegetation is properly modified and maintained, a wildfire can be slowed, the length of flames shortened, and the amount of heat reduced, all of which assist firefighters in defending the home against an oncoming wildfire.
THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED TO PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY BOTHER WITH DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Some individuals incorrectly assume that a fire engine will be parked in their driveway and firefighters will be actively defending their homes if a wildfire approaches. During a major wildfire, it is unlikely there will be enough fire fighting resources available to defend every home. In these instances, firefighters will likely select homes they can most safely and effectively protect. Even with adequate resources, some wildfires may be so intense that there may be little that firefighters can do to prevent a house from burning. The key is to reduce fire intensity as wildfire nears the house. This can be accomplished by reducing the amount of flammable vegetation surrounding a home. Consequently, the most important person in protecting a house from wildfire is not a firefighter, but the property owner. And, it is the action taken by the owner before the wildfire occurs, such as proper landscaping, that is most critical. DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OF BARE GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE? No. Unfortunately, many people have this misconception. While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing the wildfire threat, it is not required or desired. Many homes have attractive, well-vegetated landscapes that also serve as effective defensible space. Furthermore, excessive bare ground may increase the soil erosion potential of your property. When properly implemented, defensible space practices should not contribute to water quality concerns. DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT? No. For the most part, creating a defensible space employs routine gardening and landscape maintenance practices, such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plant removal, appropriate plant selection and irrigation. Equipment needed includes common tools, such as a chain saw, a pruning saw, pruning shears, loppers, a weed-eater, a shovel and a rake. A chipper, compost bin or large rented trash dumpster may be useful in disposing of unwanted plant material.
HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Defensible space size is not the same for every home, but varies depending on the slope and type of wildland vegetation growing near the house. See “Step One” on Page 16. DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE? Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfire indicate that those with an effective defensible space are much more likely to survive a wildfire. Furthermore, homes with both an effective defensible space and a nonflammable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal, etc.) are many times more likely to survive a wildfire. DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARANTEE MY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE? No. Under extreme conditions, almost any house can burn. However, having a defensible space will significantly improve the odds of your home surviving a wildfire. WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGH FIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLE SPACE? The specific reasons for not creating a defensible space are varied. Presented below are responses to common excuses for not creating defensible space.
What’s your excuse? “I don’t have the time or money.”: If you live
in a high fire hazard area, creating defensible space needs to be a high-priority use of your spare time. Many defensible space activities require little or no money to implement. For bigger, more expensive tasks, consider forming your own community Fire Safe Council chapter or becoming recognized as a “Firewise” community. For assistance in creating your own local Fire Safe Council or becoming recognized as a Firewise Community contact the Lassen County Fire Safe Council at www. lassenfiresafecouncil.org.
“It’s wrong to cut trees.”: In many areas of
the forest, trees occur in unnaturally dense stands. Thinning of these thick stands of trees not only reduces the fire threat, but often promotes forest health.
“It won’t look good.”: There is a misconception
that defensible space has to be ugly and barren to be effective. Through proper planning, a homeowner can have both an attractive landscape and an effective defensible space.
“It’s not my responsibility.”: The manner
in which a house is built, characteristics of the adjacent vegetation, and their maintenance often determine house survivability during wildfire. The homeowner, not the firefighter, is responsible for these factors.
“I don’t have an easy way to dispose of the unwanted vegetation.”: Check to see if there
is a free community cleanup day in your area. Ask your fire marshal or the Lassen County Fire Safe Council if there is a fuels-reduction chipping
program, or join several other neighbors and rent a chipper and trailer for a weekend.
“It’s not going to happen to me.”: Anywhere
in Lassen County has all the ingredients necessary for wildfire. All that is lacking is an ignition on a hot, dry, windy day.
“I’ve got insurance.”: While insurance can rebuild a house, it cannot recreate a home. Photo albums, heirlooms and other memorabilia are often irreplaceable. “I don’t know what to do.”: For more information about creating defensible space, go to www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org, or contact your local fire professional.
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Photo courtesy of Nevada Appeal
If Wildfire Approaches . . .
Living With Fire is sponsored by... Lassen County Fire Safe Council is a nonprofit organization whose mission is to help Lassen County’s high fire hazard communities get organized and acquire funds for communitylevel wildfire threat reduction projects. http://www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org Firewise, Communities is part of the National Wildland/Urban Interface Fire Program, which is directed and sponsored by the Wildlland/ Urban Interface Team of the National Wildfire Coordinating Group. http://firewise.org/ Bureau of Land Management is a federal land management agency and is a wildland fire fighting organization. http://www.ca.blm.gov USDA Forest Service, provides numerous wildland fire fighting resources across the state on National Forest lands. http://www.fs.fed.us
What about family members and pets? If possible, evacuate all family members not essential to preparing the house for wildfire Make sure to designate a safe meeting place and contact person Relay your plans to the contact person Evacuate pets Contact the local Humane Society for pet assistance if needed How should I prepare my car? Place vehicles in the garage, pointing out with keys in the ignition Roll up the windows Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked If applicable, disconnect the electric garage door opener so that the door can be opened manually What should I take? Important documents (bank, IRS, trust, investment, insurance policy, birth certificates, medical records) Credit and ATM cards Medications Prescription glasses Driver’s license Passport Computer backup files Inventory of home contents (consider videotaping) Photographs of the exterior of the house and landscape Address book Cell phone and charger Personal toiletries Change of clothing Family photo albums and videos Family heirlooms Place essential items in the car How should I leave my home? Close all interior doors
Photo courtesy of Seth Meyer
What should I wear and have with me? Wear only cotton or wool clothes Proper attire includes long pants, long-sleeved shirt or jacket, and boots Carry gloves, a handkerchief to cover your face, water to drink, and goggles Keep a flashlight and portable radio with you at all times Tune in to a local radio station and listen for instructions
US Fish and Wildlife Service Our mission is to conserve the natural biological diversity of the Great Basin, Eastern Sierra, and Mojave Desert ecosystems. http://www.fws.gov/ Sierra Nevada Conservancy The Sierra Nevada Conservancy initiates, encourages, and supports efforts that improve the environmental, economic and social well-being of the Sierra Nevada Region, its communities and the citizens of California. Linda Hansen 1-530-257-2500
Be prepared! It will likely be dark, smoky, windy and hot. There may be airborne embers, no power, no telephone service, and poor water pressure.
Leave a light on in each room Remove lightweight, nonfire-resistant curtains and other combustible materials from around windows
Close fire-resistant drapes, shutters and Venetian blinds
Turn off all pilot lights Move overstuffed furniture, such as couches and easy chairs, to the center of the room
What about the outside of my home? Place combustible patio furniture in the house or garage Shut off propane at the tank or natural gas at the meter Close all exterior vents if possible Prop a ladder against the house to provide firefighters with access to the roof Make sure that all garden hoses are connected to faucets and attach nozzles set on “spray” Close all exterior doors and windows Leave exterior doors unlocked Turn on outside lights If available and if there’s time, cover windows, attic openings and vents with plywood that is at least one-half inch thick Wet down wood-shake or shingle roofs before leaving Fill trash cans and buckets with water and place them where firefighters can find them If you have an emergency water source (pool, pond, etc.) and/or portable pump, clearly mark its availability so it can be seen from the street
For more information, visit our website
www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org or call us at (530) 251-5560
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CalFire is a state agency that provides crucial fire fighting resources throughout California and is an important manager of California’s natural resources located on private and state lands. http://www.fire.ca.gov/
Natural Resources Conservation Service Provides leadership in a partnership effort to help America’s private land owners and managers conserve their soil, water, and other natural resources. http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/ California Fire Alliance will work with Communities At Risk from wildfires to develop community based planning leadership and facilitate the development of community fire loss mitigation plans, which transcends jurisdiction or ownership boundaries. http://www.cafirealliance.org/
This Publication Courtesy of:
The Lassen County Fire Safe Council with funding assistance provided by the Lassen County Board of Supervisors Printing services provided by the Sierra Nevada Media Group Acknowledgements
Living With Fire: A Guide for the Resident, was written by Ed Smith, Natural Resource Specialist, University of Nevada Cooperative Extension, with assistance from Sonya Sistare, Living With Fire Program Coordinator. Graphic design provided by Lucy Walker, Office of Marketing and Communications, University of Nevada, Reno. Illustration and design services provided by Kirah Van Sickle for Animania, LLC. For more information about Living With Fire, contact Ed Smith, (775)782-9960 or smithe@unce.unr.edu; or Sonya Sistare, (775)784-4848 or sistares@unce.unr.edu. A master CD is available to agencies who wish to create a customized version of this publication by registering at www.livingwithfire.info/tahoe. University of Nevada Cooperative Extension Special Publication-06-11 Copyright © 2006 2nd edition - May 2008 www.unce.unr.edu/publications/ The University of Nevada, Reno is an Equal Employment Opportunity/Affirmative Action employer and does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, age, creed, national origin, veteran status, physical or mental disability, and sexual orientation in any program or activity it operates. The University of Nevada employs only United States citizens and aliens lawfully authorized to work in the United States.