Country Walking October 2008

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27 brilliant new walks with maps‌ Cumbria, StaffS, Durham, powyS, DerbyShire

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Devon, Cornwall, Sussex... iconic walks by TV legends

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wAterprooF JACkets tested: eSSential kit for autumn

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The 20 main dales would feature prominently in any selection of the finest walking country in Britain.

From the green swathes and drystone walls of Wensleydale and Swaledale to the wooded ravines of Nidderdale, these unique landscapes have inspired walkers for generations. See p44.

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The moors occupy a vast and lonesome wilderness running west to east, roughly from Thirsk to the coast. The key basecamps are Hemsley, Pickering, Goathland and Hutton-le-Hole. See p48.

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Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent are national icons.

Find out more on p26.

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Perched high above the towns of Halifax, Bradford and Keighley, these wild moorlands inspired the Bronte Sisters, particularly Emilyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Wuthering Heightsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which is set on the moors around their Haworth home.

And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the hills around Holmfirth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; home of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Last of the Summer Wineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Just watch for three crazy old coots in a rolling bathtub as you crest that hillâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Giving an idea of the epic size of Yorkshire, it even includes parts of the Peak District, particularly on the hills and moors between Sheffield and Hathersage. The Burbage Valley, with its delightful walks around Carl Wark and Higger Tor, is almost entirely within South Yorkshire.

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A rolling escarpment between York and Hull, often likened more to the South Downs than Yorkshire, the Wolds are home to Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shortest national trail, a mesmerising â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;lostâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; village, and gorgeous landscapes such as Thixendale, as well as the picturesque basecamp town of Beverley. See p32.

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Gentle, low-level downs between York and Pickering, the Howardian Hills are named after the Howard family, whose mansion, Castle Howard, nestles among them (famous now for its starring role in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Brideshead Revisitedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;).

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Towering cliffs and pretty fishing villages combine to create wonderful coastal walks, refreshed by a North Sea breeze. No fewer than four classic walks touch on this coastline. See p40.

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he anticipation is palpable. itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day one of a week-long walking holiday through the mountains and valleys of Madeira and we gather expectantly around our guide, Miguel. he outlines the routes available and the choice is dizzying â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something here for everyone. We hear about high trails above pristine whitewashed, flower-smothered villages, of valleys where honey-coloured drystone walls enclose verdant fields and gardens, of bracing clifftop walks above the crashing atlantic. i look around the group as we listen to Miguelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impeccable english â&#x20AC;&#x201C; weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re an assortment of different ages, nationalities and levels of walking experience. iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m instantly identified as a newbie with my pristine footwear, sharp-creased trousers, state-of-the-art backpack and hydration system. But the warm morning sunshine means iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m chomping at the bit.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re high above the capital of Funchal, looking at a landscape of fishing villages and forest-covered peaks, fertile valleys hosting unique flora and fauna, and one astounding feat of civil engineering â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Levadas. this network of narrow irrigation canals, started in the 1430s, was built to bring spring water from the peaks to the burgeoning population thousands of feet below. Local slaves with the simplest of tools toiled on hillsides, with just inches between them and certain craggy death on the precipices beneath â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all to carve this hypocaustal marvel into the hard basalt rock. Miguel explains, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Many people gave their blood to give us a better life.â&#x20AC;? and it is this compelling drama that brings me here. the Levadas still supply 95 per cent of Madeiraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s water, and the 870 miles of accompanying service paths provide incredible walking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; opened to the public to share the exotic sights, sounds and ¢

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remortgaged and bought a property to run as an activity centre.

Life before For over 20 years Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worked in events â&#x20AC;&#x201C; producing corporate and awards shows. These are high-pressure and high-profile, demanding extreme concentration and commitment. Opportunities to relax were minimal and the chance to repeat youthful experiences of pot-holing in the Yorkshire Dales and walking in the Peak District were a distant dream.

toughest bit Not seeing my family. My wife continues to work in the UK although commuting to Mallorca for long weekends is easy thanks to budget flights. The upside of being here alone is my Spanish has improved immeasurably.

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Life Now I run a rural activity centre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Centro Rural Sineu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in Mallorca from April to October and during the winter months I still work on awards shows in the UK. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best of both worlds. I now have the chance to walk, cycle and swim every day Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m in Mallorca, and enjoy the company of like-minded people who come and stay. why the move? After I got married in the 1970s, my wife and I worked in Mallorca for five years.

We returned to the UK to pursue our careers and raise our children, but living in London we could only dream of wide-open spaces and agreeable weather. In 2000, we began the process of returning to Mallorca,

best bit The weather, the space, being able to plan things without worrying it will rain. And having mountains, wild coasts, sandy beaches, and glorious undulating countryside, all within a few miles.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m fitter, healthier and happier and looking forward to a seven-day trip through the mountains soon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not something I could have done a few years ago. top tips Make sure you have a clear business plan and sufficient finance, but be prepared to continually change everything, including your expectations, as the project develops. Learn the language and understand and respect the local population â&#x20AC;&#x201C; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not different, you are. And understand that what you see as extremely hard work, your friends will see as one long holiday. www.centromallorca.com

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