Trail Magazine - November Issue

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hishapangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to fall, in 1964. Now all 14 had beenclimbed, there remained the truly fearful unclimbed ascents of the Greater Ranges: the subsidiary tops above 8000m, too intimidating to be achievable by anyone bar the most technically adept mountaineers. Yet by 2001 these too had all been climbed, except one: the monstrous tower of Lhotse Middle. At 8414m, it was the highest unclimbed point on earth.

Everything was against potential summiteers: bad rock, hideously corniced ridges, a seemingly inaccessible start point, and a terrifyingly steep shape. But, in 2001, the pinnacle was finally climbed, in an ascent

widely considered to be one of the most stunning in modern mountaineering.

“Starting the ascent at sea level would be tricky; starting the hard climbing at over 8400m it was almost an impossible challenge,” says Everest legend Stephen Venables in his new book First Ascent, an excellent new history of unclimbed peaks.

The men who would make it were Russians Evgueni Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov, whose expert acclimatisation regime saw them spend April 2001 yo-yoing up and down from Everest’s South Col, then traversing Lhotse’s huge north-east face to reach the hitherto inaccessible base of the

½½ First Ascent by Stephen Venables is published by Octopus Books and is out now, priced £25.

climb. In doing so they avoided the ‘crazy’ ridge that linked Lhotse’s main summit and the Middle summit, which was seen as a major impediment to any ascent.

On 22 May, they left Camp 5 at 8250m, climbing a steep cornice to reach the ridge that ascended the pinnacle. Despite terrible snow conditions, at 3pm all four men forced their way through the final cornice to the summit. The following day, the rest of the team, including Gleb Solokov (pictured), repeated the ascent. It had been the steepest terrain ever attempted at that altitude, and it had been conducted with exacting precision.

Even more remarkable was that Evgueni Vinogradsky was then 54 years old. J

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Scotland’S munroS offer 284 keyS to wilderneSS. and here, you can nail Six in a day... words Claire Maxted Photographs Tom Bailey

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ouack. That’s the satisfying sound of a pen scratching another item off your ‘to do’ list. Feels good, doesn’t it? You’ve done it now, whatever it was. Whether the task was one to be dreaded or relished, now that it’s got that lovely line of ink through it, or a neat tick at the side, the satisfaction is palpable.

Tick-lists can include horrors like ‘Clean the toilet, tidy the entire house for the in-laws, deal with the tax returns’. But, if you’re anything like me, safely tucked away inside a corner of your head that no-one can get to you have one dedicated to the mountains you have yet to climb. Think about this list, and suddenly the ticking side of things becomes much more pleasurable. Now you are in a happier place, consider the next step. What if you let someone else decide that mountain tick-list? ½

30 Trail november 2008

R XMGO PMWX R XMGO PMWX 8,) 1-77-32 /MGO WXEVX ]SYV Q ªª ªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªªª Descending Saileag with Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe ahead.

Three Munros down, three to go.

November 2008 trail 31

J>; C?II?ED That’s refreshing. Someone has done all the legwork for you and hand-picked a selection of the best of the UK’s locations to walk. It’s like coming home to find the CD player pre-loaded with all your favourite tracks: all you have to do is press play.

There are over half a dozen popular UK mountain tick-lists, many of them named after the people who tirelessly slogged their guts out all over the more vertiginous areas of Britain in order to serve up a menu of the very finest, especially for you: Munros, Marilyns, Wainwrights, Corbetts, Nuttalls, Hewitts, Grahams, Donalds and the Trail 100 (see the April 07 mag or www.lfto.com for details of the latter).

The most well-known of these lists could just be the Munros. Even people whose faces crinkle up and make an “eugh” shiver when you say “fresh air” have heard of this famous list of mountains over 3,000ft (914m), first scribbled down by Sir Hugh Munro over a century ago.

As you read this, the Scottish Mountaineering Club reckons there are thousands of hill-walkers like you, enjoying clear skies and sun or braving rain-slapping wind, on their way to ticking off these 284 summits. This may seem quite a long list to sink your teeth into, but there are four secrets you should know about this listing malarkey. Secret 1: It’s not a race. Secret 2: They take you to a whole load of locations

Big Munro days

After one first steep climb to Aonach Meadhoin, the high ridge with five more summits is easier going.

dripping with new mountain peaks, paths, valleys and views that you wouldn’t otherwise consider walking. Secret 3: (And this is the one that surprised me the most…)

You don’t actually have to complete them.

There is no stuffy old law that says, “Once the walker has embarked upon ticking the mountains off a certain tick-list, they must then complete them even if their beard is

longer than their yawn-inducing peakbagging stories.” There really isn’t. Although 150 or so commendably dedicated Munrobaggers become ‘compleaters’ (note the special spelling for those who make it up all the Munros) each year and record their achievement on the Web (www.smc.org. uk), tick-lists aren’t only for folk like them. ½ They are also very much for people who

Ready for a challenge? Here’s how you can walk up to 10 Munros in a day to make a huge dent in that 284-strong list.

The Glen Etive Five West Highlands Start NN098418 OS Landranger 50

There are five Munros for the taking here, with an optional couple more in outliers Stob Ghabhar and Stob a’Choire Odhair if your soles are not on fire after walking from Ben Starav to Meall nan Eun. Munro tally sssss

The Bridge of Orchy Five South Highlands Start NN323361 OS Landranger 50

Get the train to the Bridge of Orchy and there are five Munros on your doorstep crowded round Loch Tulla.

Start with the classic conical of Beinn Dorain and traverse the whole ridge to Beinn a’Creachain.

Munro tally sssss

The Ben lawers Seven South Highlands Start NN612473 OS Landranger 51

Linked by a spine-tinglingly twisting parapet, start this Munro-fest with Meall a’ Choire Leith and bag a grand total of seven including Ben Lawers on your way to the final 3000er, Meall Greigh.

Munro tally sssssss

32 Trail November 2008

The Glen Shiel Nine West Highlands

The Mamores Ten Central Highlands

Start NH075117 OS Landranger 33

Start NN100666 OS Landranger 41

The multiple-summited ridge of South Glen Shiel, starting with Creag a’Mhaim, gets you 12 tops over 3,000ft, nine of which are Munros, finishing with the two Munro outliers Sgurr na Sgine and The Saddle.

Munro tally sssssssss

Ten Munros in one go! These giants are linked by a ridge that rarely falls below the 750m contour with airy drops on either side. Stamina is a must for a start at Mullach nan Coirean and end at Binnein Beag.

Munro tally ssssssssss!

Sgurr Fhuaran, and the celebration starts. That’s half a dozen Munros today!

Sgurr na Carnach.

Carnach We’ll just have a little sit down, eh?

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A Mu (914.4 nro is a Sc ottis m) Munr in height. N h hill over o , w ho or amed aft 3,000ft catalo igin er g 284. B ued them, ally climb Sir Hugh ed an there ut as S d exact ly how ir Hugh ne are current ver sp ly Munr much ecifie o nee all-ro d the nu ds to have und drop a on all mber sides, occas ionall chang y es.

Saileag. “Nope, my legs aren’t hurting at all.”

“Mine neither, honest.”

Aonach Meadhoin: one down, five to go...

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, and still plenty of energy for climbing the trig.

Sgurr a’Bhealaich Dheirg: enough puff for a grin.

November 2008 trAil 33

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Multiple Mountains Made easy Make big hill days easier for yourself, says Mountain Guide Alan Kimber with his advice for multiple summit days.

Cheat the wind Walk with the wind on your back for most of your summit-peppered ridge, even if on the day it means starting your route from the opposite end you’d planned. You’ll save energy this way.

Beat the mist Avoid walking off the summit back the way you came (you’d be surprised how easily this can happen!) or descending via the wrong ridge by taking a bearing from the top before you set off to bag the next peak.

Plan your escape Be aware of alternative paths and routes back down in case of bad weather, fatigue, injury or running out of food and water.

Know you’re ready You know yourself better than anyone, so ask yourself after a normal day on the hill, “Could I carry on?” Train for a big tick-list by adding on mountains to your usual walk, or tackle more demanding routes, like Wales’ Snowdon Horseshoe.

Maximise your chances Set off early, like on an alpine start, as soon as the sun comes up. Sunrise is a beautiful time in the mountains, and it will ensure you have plenty of time to steadily notch up all your listed summits. ›› For more details on Alan’s courses and tailor-made trips see www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk

38 trAil November 2008

mountains. You must also take enough water to last you the whole ridge; the streams don’t start dribbling until lower down the mountainside.

The wind parted the clouds for seconds at a time to show steeply-slanted earth covered with an oversized rockery ahead.

Today the mountainside played out before us as an intermittent black and white TV show, dogged with scratchy interference, but the breeze was blowing us in the direction of travel rather than fighting with us for a ringside seat on the ridge. We had enough water and okay weather. We were safe to continue.

At least with a ridge-walk as part of your tick-list there’s less chance of getting lost…?

Wrong! Alan had said: “You have to be careful not to walk down the wrong side of each mountain as you tackle the ridge.” We took a quick bearing from the top of Saileag to make sure we didn’t end up back at Munro number two (incredible, I know, but

it’s easily done after a sarnie stop) or, even worse, walking down the other side of the mountain into Gleann Lichd. Lovely though this valley is, a long walk around the multiple Kintail humps was not on our agenda today.

There was something a bit special about Munro number four, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, the official start of the Five Sisters of Kintail ridge. The land on one side slumps spectacularly into what Mark Wrightham, co-author of the book Hostile Habitats, calls a double col. After the last glaciation 11,000 years ago, a huge block of the mountain slid away and stopped to admire the view a little way down (imagine your snoozing granddad slowly sliding down the sofa, stopping only at the point of maximum cushion friction).

As we gained this peculiar-looking summit, we had broken the back of today’s challenge and there were only two more Munros to go (the second and third of the Kintail Sisters) before we had fat crosses

Above right: a mega day is an excuse for a mega lunchbox.

Above left: high ridges are cold if you don’t keep moving.

You can scramble Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe’s split ridge...if you have the energy after three Munros.

through a massive six on our list. The next two Munros and two Munro Tops just along the ridge, plus the Munro we were standing on, are part of the legend of the Five Sisters of Kintail. (A Munro Top is land above the magic 3,000ft marker that is not regarded as a separate hill or not accorded Munro status. You can collect all 511 of these too!)

Legs getting tired and running out of energy snacks, the Five Sisters of Kintail story perked Kelly, Andy and me up as we climbed the last on today’s list, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran, in quick succession. Steep scree under our tiring feet faded to a more bearable background grumble as the legend unfolded. Once upon a time, an Irish soldier fell in love with the youngest of five stunning sisters, but she wasn’t allowed to get married before her elder siblings. He was told to sling his hook and bring back his four (hopefully equally stunning) brothers to marry her sisters. ½

November 2008 trail 39

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KicK-start... ...the Wainwrights

What? Guidebook-making machine Alfred Wainwright wrote and illustrated seven popular books in which 214 mountains appear. They are dotted as thick as leopard spots over the Lake District so there is a good chance you have already climbed a few.

Walk Knock off eight in one day within a circle from High Tove to High Raise finishing with Knotts.

Start NY275163 Map OS Exporers 4&5 Ticks ssssssss ›› http://tinyurl.com/Wainw

...the Corbetts

What? A Corbett is one of 219 Scottish peaks between 2, 500 and 3, 000ft (762-914m) high with a drop of at least 500m (152m). They’re spaciously sprinkled about the north, and arguably more of a challenge than the taller Munros...

Walk The Southern Highlands is the only place you can walk five at a time, starting with Beinn Odhar and walking anticlockwise to Beinn a’Chaisteil.

Start NN329330 Map OS Landranger 50 Ticks sssss ›› http://tinyurl.com/Corbetts

...the Welsh 3000ers

What? Want something you can tick off in 12 hours, or at a gentler pace over a weekend? Try bagging all the 15 Welsh peaks over 3,000ft (914m).

Walk First, order your support team to supply you with soup at strategic points, start early with Wales’ highest, Snowdon, then get busy with the Glyders for lunch and the Carneddau for tea.

Start SH647556 Map OS Exporer 17 Ticks sssss ›› http://tinyurl.com/Welsh3000

...the Trail 100s

What? We chose these mountains last year (search for ‘Trail 100 list’ on www.lfto.com to download it from our website) as a collection of the best from each of the UK’s high zones, but they are hard to string together…

Walk We grouped Scafell Pike, Scafell and Great Gable; but they mostly come in pairs, like Snowdon and Y Lliwedd. If you walk more than three in a day, email us at trail@bauermedia.co.uk Start NY235122 Map OS Exporers 4&6 Ticks sss ›› http://tinyurl.com/Trail100s

...the Nuttalls

What? Named after award-winning guidebook authors John and Anne Nuttall, there are 158 completers of this 439-strong list of Welsh and English 2000ers.

Walk Start at Seathwaite and bag your first Nuttall, Seathwaite Fell, before cracking on with Allen Crags and finishing with Rosthwaite Fell.

Start NY235122 Map OS Exporers 4&6 Ticks sssssssssss ›› www.nuttalls.com

Wannabe different?

Check out www.mountaindays.net for more obscure tick-lists, like Murdos, Donalds, Hewitts and Bridgets.

34 Trail November 2008

Munro three, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, looms ahead; but staying high on the ridge there’s less of a climb.

Fill your bottle before the stream-less ridge like we did before our first Munro, Aonach Meadhoin.

want to experience the major lure of ticklists: climbing some mountains you would never otherwise contemplate, and exploring vast swathes of the UK that would otherwise remain as mysterious as the skin behind your ears. Well, have you ever seen it?

And Secret 4, the last reason to start a mountain tick-list: there are certain places where you can bag five, six, maybe even a dozen of the mountains on your list in one day. That not only gets you off to a riproaring start if you’re on a mission to put big thick pen lines through every single peak on the list, but it also gives you a fantastic long walk over multiple mountains that are on a list for a reason. Because they’re great.

So, with that in mind, we found a route that would tick off an impressive number of Munros in one day: over the Five Sisters of Kintail. Trail readers Kelly and Andy pitched up for a ten hour walk which would get us six Munros in one route. This is an achievement in itself and, as Kelly hadn’t climbed a Munro before, she would be discovering a whole new set of mountains. Plus, should she decide to complete the whole lot, she’s would soon have only 278 to go…

The day was grey, but spirits were high as the three of us started up the hill near the celebrated walkers’ rest stop, the Cluanie Inn. We were soon to realise the real benefit of the route we’d chosen. By walking a knottedstring of tick-list summits along a ridge, we’d get a wholloping number of Munros without the associated ascent. So after an initial push up a clear 750m of a grassy run beside a burn in an unrelenting crash of contours we found ourselves on top of our first Munro of the day. And that investment in height gain would pay dividends throughout the day because from here we could stay up high to bag the rest of our summits.

Standing on top of Aonach Meadhoin, I could almost hear the satisfying, houack of an imaginary pen scratching through the first Munro on today’s itinerary. This was better than ticking off must-do chores.

One down, five to go. But, gazing into the distance, it looked like a long way from here; could we really chalk up six today? ½

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If you want to get fit for the hills, lace up a pair of trainers, head off-road and start running, says trail running event organiser Gary Jolliffe.

“Trail running is now one of the fastest growing sports in Britain, and combining it with walking is a great way to increase stamina, strength and endurance for more ambitious hikes if you only have limited time to train,” says Gary. “It also burns 25 per cent more calories than road running.”

It’s easy to start trail running, and as a walker you’ll have the advantage of being able to route-plan easily. “It’s best to use a 1:25,000 scale detailed map to link together public footpaths, bridleways and tracks and start out with a manageable circular or out-and-back route” says Gary.

While some of your walking gear, like base layers, can be used for running, it’s vital that you buy a decent pair of trainers before you start seriously. “It’s crucial that your trail running shoes should have plenty of room in the toe box so your feet aren’t scrunched during downhill sections.

It’s also important that you carry a light windproof jacket in case the weather changes.”

The Endurance Life Coastal races run from November till May, and are set in stunning locations along the UK’s south-west coast.

Each event features a 10K, half-marathon and marathon. ›› For more information go to www.endurancelife.co.uk

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J7; AMED :E ÇH[ij _i W ]eeZ j^_d]" Xkj H H[ij _i W ]eeZ j^_d]" Xkj In this sport you not only need strength but also stamina, well as energy and great flexibility. Stamina is an Xeh[Zec _i _ji Xhej^[h$È asobvious plus when it comes to hill-walking, while strong LEBJ7?H;" <H;D9> F>?BEIEF>;H

muscles help to avoid injuries to joints and ligaments, and flexibility is a great help on tricky scrambles.

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If you find it hard to find time for fitness, give these multi-tasking moves a try.

Try skipping as a warm-up to get your heart rate going.

Bonus – it will also work your shoulders, forearms and legs.

Leg lifts (below) will work your main abs.

Bonus – they will also work your obliques and back muscles as well.

48 trail November 2008

Press-ups will work your biceps and triceps.

Bonus – use a wide, normal and narrow arm position to work the entire chest.

Lunges will work your legs.

Bonus – add arm curls to work biceps and shoulder presses to work your shoulders.

H;I;7H9> HEKD:KF Self-repairing cartilage US scientists have found a strain of mice with a natural ability to repair their own damaged knee cartilage.

Scientists hope identifying the genes responsible will help them improve human cartilage, which repairs poorly. run yourself younger Regular running slows the effects of ageing, say scientists at Stanford University in the US. Researchers studied older runners for 20 years and found that their non-running counterparts were twice as likely to die prematurely from poor health.

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Fitness for dummies An Aussie study found that athletes who believe they’re taking a performance -enhancing hormone also believe their abilities have improved, even if they’re taking a placebo.

The research found the placebo actually improved their athletic abilities.

Carrying a heavy backpack means walkers can be susceptible to back pain, but new research has found that adopting good posture through the Alexander Technique can relieve long-term problems.

A recent study published in the British Medical Journal compared normal GP care, massage and Alexander Technique lessons over a year. At the end, the Alexander patients suffered just three days of back pain a month – far less than those receiving GP treatment or massages.

Poor posture is thought to be a main cause of chronic back pain, and lead researcher Professor Debbie Sharp says using the Alexander Technique to align the body would help most people with such problems: “It reduces back pain by limiting spasm, strengthening postural muscles, improving co-ordination and flexibility and decompressing the spine.”

Great state Colorado is the least obese state in the US, according to The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, while Mississippi has the worst rate of lardiness.

›› For more info go to www.stat.org.uk

The percentage of the UK population that suffers from back pain

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C7II7=; JE I;B< Walkers who suffer from aches and pains after a long walk could benefit from therapeutic massage, according to the latest research from the States.

The team from Ohio University found that immediate cyclic compression of muscles after exercise reduces swelling and muscle damage.

Massage expert Sara Savage says: “A good massage should aim to improve oxygen levels and remove toxins from the muscles. Find somewhere warm, sit down and raise your legs slightly. Then, starting with the ankle, use cupping and pressing actions that are firm but not too deep, moving slowly up the leg. Include some post-walk stretching for ligaments and joints.”

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7 L?8H7J?ED FB7J;5 These vibrating platforms are popular with people who frequent swanky gyms because they are said to tone bodies with very little effort. And now, if you have the space – plus a mountain of spare cash – you can have one in your own home.

Makers of the Globus Vibration Platform say it provides an all-over body workout, reducing fat, increasing lean muscle and improving muscle strength and power.

Exercises that can be done on the vibrating plate include squats and lunges, core stomach workouts, press-ups and triceps dips.

But with a price tag of £1,200 we reckon you’d be much better investing that money in a few trips to the hills instead! ›› Available at www.next. co.uk

QMPPMSR Number of UK working days lost each year to back pain

The percentage that go on to have chronic back pain

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Two friends and I will be walking Dartmoor next year. We intend to wild camp carrying up to 20kg packs, covering the 26 mile route in two days.

What training should we be doing? FWkb 9Whjmh_]^j" >[hj\ehZi^_h[

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Personal trainer Joe Shepherd of Dorset Fitness has the answer: You have three agendas before the event: To run hard two days back to back You should aim to train to a maximum of about 10 miles, on hilly terrain for two consecutive days. Aim to have achieved this within two months of the event.

1

2

To run with a potential load of 20kg For two months before the event do the above but add a light backpack to two runs each week, but not more. Progress by adding a couple of kg each week to your pack. So that on your final training run, one week before the event, you’ll do 2 x 10 miles back-to-back with 16kg.

3

To remain injury-free Do plenty of stretching and perhaps get a regular sports massage. (See left!)

Paul wins a Silva Pedometer Pulse worth £25.

Get yours at www.cotswoldoutdoor.com Send a fitness query to Cotswold Knowledge Exchange, at trail@bauer media.co.uk, and if we print it, you get an answer aND a great prize!

November 2008 trail 49

JH7?B CEKDJ7?D;;H J J7?D;;H Nipping along Striding Edge on Helvellyn.

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WELCOME TO YOUR FUTURE. IT’s WEaRINg CRaMpONs.

ang on!“ we hear you cry. “I climb mountains. Am I not a mountaineer already?” In a manner of speaking, yes. But the term ‘mountaineer’ is especially applicable to those people who covet the touch of metal and crave the feel of rope, and are drawn towards ice-dripping cliffs and ridges smothered in crisp winter snow as if magnetised to them. But if you’re a summer hill-walker, the world of the high, white mountains can be a wee bit intimidating.

So, in the following pages we’re going to give you all the information you need to make this coming winter the one that launches your snowy mountaineering career. Don’t know what gear you need to keep you warm, dry and safe in the snow? Read it here. Don’t know which hills to start on? All here. Don’t know how to kick steps? We tell you here. Then, when you’re skilled up and kitted out with a few beginner hills under your harness, we show you how to step it up a notch and tackle some Alpine-esque peaks, first in the UK, and then for real, overseas.

So sink that oat soda and get an early night. You’ve got a big winter ahead. J

“

120 trail November 2008

!

In association with

M>7JÊI ?DI?:; 122 Gear up for winter All the kit you need to realise your mountaineering dreams, from UK winter walking to full-on Alpine exploration.

124 Skills academy 1 A winter skills refresher course to kick-start your adventures.

127 Course guide

The best winter skills and mountaineering courses around.

128 Your starter for five The UK’s five loveliest winter hills, freshly snow-covered and waiting for your feet.

130 Skills academy 2 Perfect these five skills and a bevy of Alpine hills will be yours.

132 Alpine UK Practise your newly honed skills on these Alpine-style UK routes.

133 Aim higher!

Exhausted all the UK has to offer? Want to try your new skills out on some REAL peaks? Find some great beginners’ Alps here.

134 Mega range

Oberland – the great Swiss region where you can experience a bit of everything the Alps can offer.

135 10 lessons a mountaineer will learn From Alpine starts to the ‘buzz’: one day, these will ring true...

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in association with

M>7JÊI J> 7 7JÊI J> ?I 8EN < E EH5 EN < This, friends, is gear heaven. trail has paired up with kit expert Cotswold to bring you a showcase of some of the best clobber on the market. As you’re thumbing through this section, plotting your path to mountain greatness, cast your eye down to this part of the page where, on each spread, Cotswold will recommend the gear that will help you on your way. With over 30 years of outdoor expertise, a passion for all things mountain, and staff who actually do what they sell, Cotswold is the ideal partner for any aspiring mountaineer. Your mountaineering dreams become real here!

November 2008 trail 121

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How do I… do an ice axe arrest?

Everything you’ve learnt up until now has focused on staying on your feet and making sure every step feels 100 per cent secure. BUT… if you do slip you need to know how to use your ice axe to bring a slide under control and eventually to a halt.

1

Holding your ice axe in your uphill hand with the pick facing backwards, practise bringing it

into the self arrest position (see pic above left).

Your uphill hand stays on the axe head but now the pick is facing outwards and the adze is tucked into your shoulder. Your other hand will be holding the shaft near the bottom.

2

Without an ice axe, practise sliding downhill on a safe slope on your back with your feet facing downhill, a few times. Then try sliding downhill with the ice axe, bringing it into the self arrest position.

3

When you’ve got used to that, slide downhill and bring the ice axe into the self arrest position. Now roll over towards the pick of the axe.

As you roll, lean all your weight over the axe. Keep your feet in the air, because if you do this for real you might be wearing crampons. teacher’s tip: “To practise ice axe arrest, take crampons off as they can send you cartwheeling down the slope. Practise with both hands too.”

How do I… navigate in snow?

1

Set your map Turn you map until the vertical blue lines run upwards in the same direction as the north pointer on your compass. This provides instant land-tomap orientation.

2

Know your scale Learning to use map scale is the true art to winter navigation. Measure the length and width of terrain features on the map, and tick them off as you pass them to establish your position.

3

Use slope aspect Learn to identify and use slope aspect, not only to relocate if you are unsure of your position but also to confirm your location at any time during poor visibility. Altimeter watches and GPSs also help establish altitude and your ultimate position within 10 to 20 metres.

4

t take accurate bearings When taking a compass bearing, get down on one knee, using your other thigh as a firm table surface. Steady the map and compass then take your bearing. This method will increase your accuracy.

126 trail November 2008

5

learn to count Count your double paces from 0 to 100 metres.

This aids navigation in poor visibility by enabling you to track the distance you’re covering.

6

Understand the terrain Practise interpreting contours. Understanding the shape of the land is absolutely paramount for

walking confidently through the winter hills. teacher’s tip “Navigation is different in winter.

In this environment weather conditions can deteriorate into white-out in minutes, so it’s important to have a firm grasp of these vital map and compass skills to keep you safe even if the weather does close in.”

In association with

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West Coast Mountain Guides prepare for winter from £165 get a taster of what a Scottish winter can be like with this two-day, Fort william-based course run in November and December. You’ll learn about the equipment, skills and experience required to move confidently in snow and ice. New navigation and survival techniques will be practised on a visit to ben Nevis.

Endgame getting the lowdown on Scottish winter www.westcoastmountainguides. co.uk

Trail Package beginners’ winter munros £575 in association with trail, this is a fourday course for the ambitious walker ready to take on Scotland’s snowy hills. Journey to winter summits to learn how to use crampons and ice axes, plan winter walks, navigate in snow, calculate risk, understand winter weather and avoid avalanches.

Endgame giving you the skills to walk winter hills alone www.climbmts.co.uk

Plas y Brenin Snowy peaks and passes £690 A walkers’ introduction to the Alps, this five-dayer will see you standing on Switzerland’s Alpine summits without the need for technical or climbing skills. get to grips with crampons and ice axes while journeying across glaciers and passes, staying in mountain huts and savouring the ambience of the Alps.

Endgame to enjoy the Alps without being a mountaineer www.pyb.co.uk

Trail Improvers winter mountaineering holiday £600 have aspirations to spider across snowy ridges but want to do it in the UK before journeying abroad? on this five-day course, visit the peaks of Scotland’s south-east highlands and learn to journey safely on exposed slopes. learn ice axe and rope techniques, and brush up on rusty winter skills.

Endgame to become a confident, self-reliant, Alp-read mountaineer www.climbmts.co.uk

ISM Alpine introduction £795 leap straight from UK winter hill-walking to Alpinism with this five-day course based in the Swiss Alps. learn Alpine ropework and climbing skills at 3000m before moving to higher peaks to learn glacier travel, ice axe and crampon technique and crevasse rescue.

No mountaineering experience necessary.

Endgame to give you winter technical and climbing skills in an Alpine environment www.alpin-ism.com

Plas y Brenin Discover Alpinism £745 A five-day course for those ready to transfer their UK mountaineering know-how to an Alpine environment.

From a base in Arolla, Switzerland and using mountain huts, you’ll learn to move fluidly over snow and ice, travel on glaciers and ridges, and perfect alpine rope work and crevasse rescue.

Endgame to launch your career in safe and fun Alpinism www.pyb.co.uk

Choose... crampons Cotswold supplies all the gear you need. To find out more go to www.cotswoldourdoor.com, visit one of our 37 stores across the UK or call 0844 557 7755.

Grivel G10 Flex New Classic aB C1

Grivel G14 Newmatic aB C3

Designed to fit most boots, with a flexible regulation bar for improved fit on b1. includes 10 points, durable plastic harnesses, single simple strap and anti-ball plate.

510933 £85

A versatile 12-point crampon with forged points for hard ice penetration with less vibration. Front points can be adjusted from bi-point to monopoint (tools supplied).

510931 £130

Grivel G12 Newmatic aB C2

Black Diamond Contact Strap C1

A classic 12-point crampon designed for moderate to mid-grade snow and ice and mixed routes, including vertical ice. can be adjusted by hand. 510934 £105

A lightweight crampon with flexible toe strap and heel for boots without recessed welts.

For skiing, trekking and moderate technical snow and ice routes.

511208 £70

November 2008 traIl 127

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ALpInE-STyLE ROuTES In THE uK? yOu BET yOuR CRAMpOnS THERE ARE. BuCKLE up AnD CRAnK IT up A nOTCH…

Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis, West Highlands With 800m of graded climbing this is a mammoth alpine-style day out that requires sound judgment, route-finding and technical skills. Walk to the CIC hut at NN167722 and you can easily pick out the start of the route: the conical Douglas Boulder (a V Diff). Many people bypass it, scrambling a section of scree to start at the East Gully. Most of Tower Ridge is solid scrambling although it’s worth pitching certain sections such as the slanting ledge on Little Tower. A narrow, exposed crest leads to the final hurdle at Tower Gap, which you can downclimb or increase the ‘Wheeeee!’ factor with an abseil.

Route-finding (more = tougher) ((( Technicality (more = tougher) ((((( Alpine factor (more = more awesome!) (((((

Afterthought Arête, Stag Rocks, Cairngorms To the south of Cairn Gorm and the north-east of Ben Macdui, Loch A’an is a remote body of water over the 700m mark, surrounded at its northern end by one of the most popular climbing crags in the Cairngorms.

Stag Rocks (NJ001021) holds two classic climbs with Afterthought Arête sitting on its left-hand rib. It offers a steep first pitch followed by a stunning knife-edge arête: a moderate climb that sits at the top end of scrambling grades and will require protection. This full 150m route will show you a very different side to the Cairngorms.

Route-finding (( Technicality ((( Alpine factor ((((

132 TRAIl november 2008

north-East Ridge, Aonach Beag, Central Highlands The north-east ridge of Aonach Beag delivers a surprising alpine-style route that goes at Grade 3 in winter and in summer offers an outstanding day’s climbing of the same magnitude as The Ben’s Tower Ridge. The lengthy, three hour walk-in is well rewarded by the 460m of ridge that delivers a classic mountain expedition in a really wild setting. you’ll find the ridge on OS Explorer 342 starting around NN205721.

Route-finding ((( Technicality ((( Alpine factor ((((

Cneifion Arête, Gribin Ridge, Glyders

One of the most famous Grade 3 scrambles in north Wales, this offers a full alpine-style day out in one of the most exciting rock playgrounds in Snowdonia. From Cwm Cneifion, the arête is an obvious pinnacled ridge that rises directly off the wall of Gribin Ridge. It’s easy to get to so this is a popular route. Get here early to avoid the crowds and you’ll have first dibs on the first rock step (a Diff grade climb that requires pitching), the subsequent chimney and then the long, pinnacled crest.

Route-finding (( Technicality ((( Alpine Factor ((((

Cyfrwy Arête, Cadair Idris, Snowdonia

Cadair Idris’s northern cliffs are some of the most impressive in Snowdonia, stretching for over three miles. The Cyfrwy Arête rises above its only real break at the cwm of Llyn y Gadair. This route was first climbed by Owen Glynne Jones in 1888, in smooth leather-soled shoes; but it sits at the top end of scramble grades (3S) and can be a Moderate climb, so ropes and protection (and decent boots) are required. The 175m route rises in a series of towers from valley almost to the summit, to offer one of the best mountain days out in north Wales. And if you want to really challenge yourself, try climbing the lower tower, known as The Table, by Table Direct (a V Diff).

Route-finding (( Technicality ((((

In association with

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UK HillS SUDDeNly Seem a little, well, Small? oVeRSeaS aDVeNtUReS await witH tHeSe toP beGiNNeRS’ alPS. Petite aiguille Verte, 3512m /11,522ft

Where? Chamonix, France Why? it’s easily accessible from argentière, about 8km up the valley from Chamonix. there’s a cable car that goes three quarters of the way up, so you only have to walk an hour to the bottom of the ridge, from which it’s another 45 minutes to the summit. it’s a nice crest and not too technical, but you do need knowledge of scrambling, simple climbing and rope techniques to get there. From here you get fantastic views of les Drus.

Gran Paradiso, 4061m /13,323ft

Where? aosta Valley, italy Why? this is one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the alps, located in a stunning area with lots of wildlife and pretty villages. the mountain itself climbed from the village of Pont, or as part of a lovely six-day walk starting from the valley of la thuile. the final approach starts from Rifugio Vittorio emmanuelle, and is mostly over snowfields, with just a few metres of scrambling over exposed rock at the top.

Pigne d’arolla, 3796m /12,454ft

Where? arolla, Switzerland Why? Reached directly from the village or via a three-day glacier tour, this mountain offers unrivalled views over the matterhorn, mont blanc and the eiger on a good day.

Starting in arolla, the climb takes in the unmanned Refuge des bouquetins and the Cabane des Vignettes before passing the Col de l’eveque. From here it’s three hours to the summit before a long, glaciated descent into the valley via the Pas de Chevres. the route incorporates100m of italy, but don’t worry – you won’t need a passport!

allalinhorn, 4027m /13,211ft

Where? Saas-Grund, Switzerland Why? another easy 4000m peak for beginners, the mountain can be climbed in one day from Saas-Fee by catching the cable car. this links with the metro alpine, which you can take to the mittel allalin station at 3454m /11,331ft. From here it’s less than two hours’ climb to the summit, following a ski road and bearing right at the bergschrund (crevasse). From here a broad, easy snow slope takes you to the summit, though the snow gets soft in the afternoon.

roche Faurio, 3730m /12,237ft

Where? Parc National des ecrins, France Why? this snowy mountain offers views to the south of barre des ecrins and mont Pelvoux, and to the north-west of la meije, a huge, rocky, icy lump that’s well-known in the mountaineering fraternity. Starting from the village of ailefroide, it’s a relatively straightforward walk up snow slopes to the ecrins Hut, though with some risk from crevasses and bare ice. the rocky summit is then reached via an easy scramble. More fun overleaf...

Choose... more boots Cotswold supplies all the gear you need. To find out more go to www.cotswoldourdoor.com, visit one of our 37 stores across the UK or call 0844 557 7755.

Scarpa Phantom 8000 (B3)

Scarpa Cumbre (B3)

Scarpa Omega Intuition thermo (B3)

Scarpa High altitude Vega (B3)

tom bailey

a high-altitude, superb triple boot whose integral gaiter, thermo fit liner and heat-retaining sole make an overboot redundant. Clip-on crampon-compatible, GSb-compatible. must be fitted in store. 310172 £550

offers the weight and dexterity of leather combined with the durability and support of plastic. mouldable thermo inners provide exceptional warmth. boot requires specialist instore fitting. 310072 £260

a great boot that feels as good as it looks. Sufficiently stiff ankle flex for technical climbing yet flexible enough for walking comfort. GSbcompatible. 310133 £270

the workhorse of all mountain boots, the Vega has summited all of the world’s 8000m peaks.

Perfect for glacier walks, arctic terrain and higher mountains.

310324 £180

November 2008 traIl 133

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WALking sAves s you ÂŁ2,727* per yeAr! While the rest of the population spends their time in a zombie-like haze of shopping malls, reality TV and DIY, you have the life-affirming rewards that come with getting to Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild, hilly areas. But thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another reason to celebrate. While the general populus frets about crunched credit, falling house prices and rocketing fuel costs, we reckon that simply being a walker could make you recession-proof.

In fact we think it could be saving you up to ÂŁ230 every month. Why? Because you use the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountainous green gym, are less likely to take overseas flights and â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thanks to your healthy lifestyle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to fork out for healthcare and diet products. Tot it all up and we reckon your wallet could be over ÂŁ2,727 fatter every year.

And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great news if you want to justify your next gear purchase! Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how we came to that figure in this â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;highly scientificâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; study...

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8 trail November 2008

sAve on fueL

sAve on heALth costs

As a walker, the idea of ditching the car for shorter journeys is far less intimidating than it is for the average couch potato. Over four million of them drive up to four miles to work each day (a distance that would take less than 20 minutes on a bike).

By using your hill fitness to bike, run or walk that short distance to work, and to make shorter trips around town, we reckon you could easily be saving over ÂŁ250 per year on fuel compared to the average car-dependent Brit.

Bupa private health care membership would cost you ÂŁ60 per month, but because you go walking youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re already far fitter and healthier than the average Joe. The hills give you health cover that no medical centre can match. In fact, the Mental Health Foundation say one fifth of GPs now prescribe â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;exercise therapyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to people with mild to moderate depression; and Natural England is currently promoting â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;green exerciseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; because they say itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the most cost-effective way to improve the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s physical and mental wellbeingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a great way to combat obesity, which now accounts for 30 per cent of deaths worldwide.

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sAve on fAmiLy AttrActions

If you prefer the thrills of steep-sided mountains and free-running fauna to vomit-inducing roller coasters and caged wildlife, you could be saving a packet. A family ticket to Alton Towers will cost you ÂŁ98 while a similar trip to Chessington World of Adventures will set you back ÂŁ86.

Add in ÂŁ60 for queue jump tickets and ÂŁ50 in food and parking and the cost of two family trips a year rockets to over ÂŁ300. So if you prefer an energetic, queue-free day of walking in the UK hills with a packed lunch, then the only costs you have to worry about are your travel. So why not head to Snowdonia this weekend and give Alton Towersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; crushing crowds and hours-long queues the cold shoulder?

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sAve on street fAshions Stroll down your local high street and you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fail to notice the proliferation of outdoor brands, mostly worn by people whose idea of a stiff uphill walk means eschewing the escalators in Top Shop. The Office for National Statistics reckons that we spent around ÂŁ23 per week on clothing and footwear in 2007. But with walking brands so popular, you can consider yourself a trail-blazing fashion icon who can wear their hill gear for all social occasions. So on with the GoreTex when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re heading to work. Pop on a soft shell for the pub. Slip into something breathable yet waterproof for weddings, christenings and funerals. Let everyone know why you tear off up the M6 every Friday night, wherever you go.

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6 ways to save more

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Walking the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful mountains as your holiday choice means youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not forking out to go to crowded foreign honeypots. The average British holidaymaker spent around ÂŁ837 on their family break in 2007, according to insurance company Insure and Go. Timeshare company RCI reckons that we take two holidays a year of up to a week; but swap just one of these for a trip to the UK hills and a spot of wild camping, and you make a massive saving. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, while theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sweating on a beach, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re having an adventure that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s really worth recounting when you get back.

1 Travel cheaper

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Petrol and oil prices have gone up 16.5 per cent since 2006, according to the latest Which? magazine report. Save money on the Internet by finding someone to share a lift to the hills or by finding the cheapest petrol prices on your trip. â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.liftshare.org and www.petrolprices.com

2 Sleep free

Take your tent higher into the hills for a free wild camp. Or register for couchsurf: this fast-growing site allows you to sleep for free on one of 20,853 couches all over the UK. â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.couchsurfing.com

3 Make food yourSelf Trailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountaineering editor Jeremy Ashcroft uses an Excalibur food dehydrator to make camp food: â&#x20AC;&#x153;You can make your own hill meals, which are much better than shop-bought alternatives.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much cheaper â&#x20AC;&#x201C; about a quarter of the cost â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and your meals are far lighter than boil-in-the-bag options.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.ukjuicers.com

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4 GeT Sale-Savvy

Save oN GyM MeMberShIp Membership of Cannons Health Clubs would set you back around ÂŁ40 per month, but as a walker you get your exercise the smart way: out on the hills.

So instead of aerobics classes, saunas, Jacuzzis and a room full of grunting, steroid-chomping dweebs you have the benefit of mountain panoramas, muscle-toning scrambles and calorieburning inclines. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, the British Nutrition Foundation says walking on steep, rugged ground burns up to 150 calories more every hour than walking on the flat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so bring on the hills!

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Snap up bargains thanks to end-of-season gear shop sales and reduced online prices.

Give yourself a full gear makeover for half price by shopping out of season and avoiding the most popular colourways. Head to the Trail website to find out about great gear bargains on our forum. â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.livefortheoutdoors.com

5 coNSIder uSed Gear Head to Oxfam in Keswick or London. This summer they launched the Fabric4Life project in conjunction with Grangerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waterproofing, and by October you should be able to buy donated old gear, repaired and ready for resale for less money but with plenty of hill life left in it. (Of course you should never buy used climbing gear such as ropes and harnesses.) â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.oxfam.org.uk

6 care for old Gear It makes good cash-saving sense to make sure you clean your ÂŁ200 waterproof jacket and ÂŁ100 trousers every few months and rewaterproof them once a year to prolong their lifespan.

And did you know you can resole your ÂŁ130 walking boots for just ÂŁ35? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also worth finding out if you can send bashed-up kit back to the manufacturer to be repaired via the shop you bought it from. â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş www.feetfirst.resoles.co.uk

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November 2008 Trail 9

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Dave Pearce

John Wood and Hannah Peters

Dave is an ex-Royal Marines Commando, Everest summiteer and MIC-level instructor. His company Peak Aspirations (www.peakaspirations.co.uk) can tailor outdoor adventures to suit your needs.

John wants to try night walking because it’s a different way to see familiar hills.

Hannah likes the excitement of a night walk and has always wanted to see a sunrise from a mountaintop.

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D?=>J M7BA?D= Words Simon ingram Photographs tom Bailey

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cared of the dark? I certainly am. And so, dear reader, are you.

No matter who you are or what you’ve learned, turn the lights off and there’s a moment where even the hardiest hesitate. It’s understandable, too: the night is sinister as hell. The daytime has sparrows and squirrels. The night has bats and cockroaches. And for diurnal creatures like us humans, trying to move around at night opens up a whole trove of self-doubt and confidencesapping clumsiness. Everyone has at some point got up in the night and miscounted the number of stairs, or bumped into a kitchen unit they could have sworn was somewhere else. And if that’s what happens before you even leave your house, how are you supposed to walk in, say, a mountain range when – on top of everything else –your impulses are doing their best to assure you that what you’re doing is wrong somehow? ½

60 trail November 2008

No, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a ghost â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but darkness may lead you to believe they exist. But a few skills can help you to take the fright out of night.

November 2008 trail 61

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BWij ed[ je j^[ XWh fWoi Heck, it’s October and it might piddle down. It might be blowing a hoolie on the hills. The mist might even whisper, “So you think you can navigate in the mountains?” subversively in your ear. But now you can shout “I don’t care what you throw at me!” at any weather you walk in, because plenty of these routes end in the womb-warm glow of a pub. Once you know that after a soggy northern Highlands blast up Ben Klibreck or a wet Welsh walk up Snowdon, a log fire and award-winning ales will be there to greet you, grotty conditions become ‘dealable’ with. Just watch out for the more spooky numbers on the list below. Be sure the Phantom Army don’t ask you to pay for their round after the Lake District’s Souther Fell, and don’t be alarmed if a Scottish ghost gives you a nudge after climbing The Wiss in the Southern Uplands. It’s only their way of saying “Cheers!”

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roaring stove in the isolated Crask Inn after this 18 mile cracker up Ben Klibreck, the second most northerly Munro.

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of Munro status! The Fara makes a fun, boulder-filled10 miler in rock-climber land.

flying start with the six on the legendpacked Five Sisters of Kintail ridge.

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The biggest, best walk in Ireland takes you over the rocky Macgillycully’s Reeks ridge and straight to the Climbers’ Inn.

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home of ‘Britain’s Favourite View’ on a 14 mile bash up the seldom-walked Seatallan.

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Hop on your velocipede for a 21 mile ride along ancient tramlines and over the highest pass for miles, ‘The Gap’.

All route maps and GPs created with www.memory-map.co.uk 0870 740 9044

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superb grub at the Manifold Inn after this gentle 13 mile roller through the White Peak by the River Dove.

We aim to provide the most accurate route information, but you must aLWaYS use an Ordnance Survey or Harvey map on the hill and always double-check directions against it. experience before embarking on a route

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The times quoted for trail Routes are based on estimates of 4km per hour, plus 30 min for every 300m of ascent, with another hour added for rests every 8 hours. The blocks give you an at-aglance guide: N Quickie NN Short day NNN Full day NNNN Very full day NNNNN Endurance test

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How tricky is this route to follow?

N Clear, well-marked paths in a valley or following a linear feature, like Hadrian’s Wall or the South West Coast Path NN Valley, moor, hill or mountain paths which are normally clear but low cloud could affect your ability to follow paths NNN Almost pathless in valleys; less clear paths on moors, hills and mountains, but generally following clearly defined hill shapes NNNN Some paths but not clear, not well used or some confusion possible NNNNN Open moorland, mountain plateau or crag without paths. Route confusion likely and close attention to navigation needed at all times

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How difficult will i find it?

N Easy walks in gentle countryside NN Unthreatening slopes with no exposure NNN Typical Lakes fell walk – rough, rocky ground, bogs and steeper slopes NNNN Steep, rough ground and scree.

Occasional exposure NNNNN Hands required for at least one move – airy and steep throughout

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N Grade 1 scramble, NN Grade 2 scramble, NNN Grade 3 scramble, NNNN Grade 3S scramble or Diff climb NNNNN V Diff climb NB Look for additional winter warnings on red-graded routes

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Scrambling is probably the most dangerous thing you can do in the M7HD?D= mountains, and to do so is to be aware of your limitations, wary of conditions and in posession of the skills and equipment to protect yourself if at all unsure. ½½ Visit Mountain Weather Information Service: www.mwis.org.uk

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Your tick-list of 100 mountains you MUST climb! Download the full list from tinyurl.com/325t8k

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Keswick Kendal

© CROWN COPYRIGHt IN ASSOCIAt ASSOCIA ION WItH MM/EMAP’S MEdIA LICENCE NO. AM122/05

Lancaster

NY125040 the day begins from Nether Wasdale at the Screes Inn or Strands Hotel that stands opposite. Walk along the main road towards Wasdale and after 500m turn left along a bridleway signposted Buckbarrow. After a right turn the path leads to the road at Buckbarrow farmhouse.

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Distance 22km (13½ miles) t total ascent 1160m time 7-8 hours Start/finish Nether Wasdale NY125040 Nearest town Gosforth t terrain a high-level fell-walk over mainly unclear paths, some boggy. In poor visibility good navigational skills needed. Following the bridleway from the River Bleng to Windsor Farm is particularly challenging Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL6; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey Walker (1:40,000) and Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland West Buy maps at www. ordnancesurvey.co.uk/ mapshop accommodation B&Bs and campsites in Wasdale valley, Wast Water Youth Hostel – tel. 0870 770 6082 Public transport train to Seascale (not on Sundays), with buses to Gosforth and Post Bus service to Wasdale Head – tel. (01228) 606000; www.cumbria.gov.uk Guidebook The Western Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln t tourist info Whitehaven – tel. (01946) 852939 Best pubs Screes Inn – tel. (019467) 26262; Strands Hotel – tel.

(019467) 26237

trail November 2008

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NY136055 Walk along the road from Buckbarrow to Greendale and from here a clear path leads north towards Greendale tarn. tarn. the great bulk of Seatallan dominates the scene.

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NY145106 the final pull onto Haycock requires some scrambling over boulders. A stone wall and path spans the summit of Haycock. At 797m above sealevel Haycock is the highest peak of this walk. Follow the wall and path west along the crest of the ridge. At first you descend and then rise over Little Gowder Crag before descending again and rising to Caw Fell (NY132110).

NY122119 Swing north to descend and then rise to Iron Crag, which Wainwright named Caw Fell. Writer Harry Griffin reckoned this was the most westerly 2,000ft peak and referred to it as Iron Crag (the same as Ordnance Survey).

From here you get fine views

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NY122057 ttake the track from Windsor Farm to the road, which can be followed left to reach a turning on the right that leads down a track through Gill and back to the start at Nether Wasdale, with its choice of two great inns.

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NY130090 Once you arrive in the valley you need to cross the River Bleng, which is unbridged, and then follow a bridleway around the western slopes of Seatallan.

Although clearly marked on the map, this path is difficult to follow so don’t be surprised if you lose it – I did! the secret is to stay 0.5km to the east of the Blengale Forest Hollow Moor plantation and this should allow you to find the path and follow it to Windsor Farm.

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Finally ) NY147073 you emerge at an amphitheatre, with Greendale ttarn taking centre stage. the next objective is Seatallan and to reach the summit you need to climb unpathed slopes to the north-west, picking the easiest line and linking the obvious crags to add interest.

NY140085 the summit of Seatallan is a vast plateau of short grass punctuated by a trig point and shelter. the skyline is dominated by Scafell Pike.

Seatallan is not the highest point in the area, being only 692m above sea-level. to o find a higher peak this walk heads for Haycock by following the faint ridge north-east and then north towards Haycock.

across Ennerdale and back to Haycock, Steeple and Pillar. the return journey now begins and you need to head south from the summit of Caw Fell to find the head of Red Beck, which you trace to the valley floor. there are no obvious paths on this section, although occasionally you will pick up a sheep track that makes the going easier underfoot.

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The aproach to Greendale Tarn from Wasdale.

V5 OS Region 4 Northern England www.memory-map.co.uk 0870 740 9044

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Greendale Tarn, seen from the lower slopes of Seatallan.

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If you want to avoid the crowds in the Lakes you need to check out this cracking little peak, says Graham Thompson. Then join him for a pint afterwards...

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eatallan is not a hill that walkers generally speak of; however this lack of attention is primarily due to the company that it holds, rather than any suggestion that it is boring or easy. At the foot of Seatallan stretches Wast Water, the deepest lake in England; and across these waters extends ‘Britain’s Favourite View’ – according to an ITV television poll. At the head of Wast Water rises England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike, as well as Great Gable, the recognised birthplace of English rock-climbing. With all this on its doorstep it is easy to see why Seatallan is so easily overlooked!

What is less well-known is that Seatallan rises above Buckbarrow, where climbers

horse-drawn carriage, they would stop off at Nether Wasdale to take in the view to the mountains from the green and visit the “two clean humble inns, the Strands Inn and the Strands Hotel” ((Jenkinson’s Practical Guide to the Lake District District, published in 1872). Today these inns are known as The Screes Inn and the Strands Hotel, and they provide a perfect launch pad from which to explore these forgotten hills that rise to the west of Wasdale.

This walk tackles Seatallan from The Screes Inn or the Strands Hotel opposite and takes in some distant corners of Wasdale that few walkers know about.

But think on: Seatallan isn’t that easy – no matter what anyone says!

The Screes Inn – one of two excellent pubs at this route’s end.

who like to escape the crowds can be seen. Further down in the valley sits the hamlet of Nether Wasdale, which today barely gets a second glance from visitors bound for Wasdale Head. Yet in the late 19th century, when travellers arrived by

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