LIANA PABERZA sustainable fashion
portfolio exam DT15INT__KEA 2016
CONTENTS 1. Module 5 - TECHNICAL DRAWING & TECHPACK . sketching process . techpack 2 . M o d u l e 6 - S U S TA I N A B L E I N N OVAT I O N . . . . . .
identity wheel design proposal moodboards process documentation collection overview collection
3. Module 7 - FASHION & PRINT . . . . . . . . .
brand DNA persona triangulation moodboards process documentation print collection print techpack prototype style techpack
Portfolio Exam 3rd Semester
TECHNICAL DRAWING & TECHPACK knitwear
M_5
M_5
SKETCHING PROCESS
REF: 101-1891 DESCRIPTION: Cable Knit Sweater MANUFACTURER: RITA
CLIENT: Lee Cooper SEASON: AW’18 DELIVERY: 14/02/2017
DATE: 14/10/2016 FIBER CONTENT: 50% acrylic / 50% wool STITCH/GAUGE: 28 st and 40 r / 4” in stockinette stitch COLOUR: Cannoli Cream 11-4302 TCX
Rib Knit FRONT Rib Knit
M_5
NOTE: Made in Cut and Sew/all inside hems - overlock
Rib Knit
BACK
TECHPACK
REF: 101-1891 DESCRIPTION: Cable Knit Sweater MANUFACTURER: RITA
CLIENT: Lee Cooper SEASON: AW’18 DELIVERY: 14/02/2017
DATE: 14/10/2016
sheet #3
FIBER CONTENT: 50% acrylic / 50% wool STITCH/GAUGE: 28 st and 40 r / 4” in stockinette stitch COLOUR: Cannoli Cream 11-4302 TCX
Rib Knit
Rib Knit FRONT
Purl Stitch
Purl Stitch Plain Stitch
M_5
Purl Stitch
Plain Stitch
Plain Stitch
DETAIL CLOSE-UP FRONT
TECHPACK
REF: 101-1891 DESCRIPTION: Cable Knit Sweater MANUFACTURER: RITA
CLIENT: Lee Cooper SEASON: AW’18 DELIVERY: 14/02/2017
DATE: 14/10/2016
sheet #4
FIBER CONTENT: 50% acrylic / 50% wool STITCH/GAUGE: 28 st and 40 r / 4” in stockinette stitch COLOUR: Cannoli Cream 11-4302 TCX I
J
K
C
A
E
D
B
F
G
H FRONT
M_5
SIZES A TOTAL GARMENT LENGTH B WIDTH BETWEEN ARMHOLES C ARMHOLE D SLEEVE LENGTH E SLEEVE WIDTH F WIDTH ABOVE RIB G HEM RIB LENGTH H CUFF RIB LENGTH I SHOULDER J NECK WIDTH K NECK BAND
S 63 57 23 55 26 56 4,5 4 14 18 2,5
M 66 60 26 58 29 59 4,5 4 15 19 2,5
L 69 63 29 61 32 62 4,5 4 16 19 2,5
Measurements in cm
TECHPACK
S U S TA I N A B L E I N N OVAT I O N Animana
M_6
NORDIC FEEL COZY SOFTNESS NATURAL
MINIMALISTIC
TEXTURE
COLOURS
LUXURY BASICS
LINEN
TIMELESS
SCANDINAVIAN
CRAFTSMANSHIP SHADES
DETAILS
MATERIALS
EARTH TONES NATURAL M_6
FUNCTION
DESIGN IDENTITY WHEEL
Project objective Vision: The collection should capture the feeling and spirit of Animana by adding a new perspective from the Nordic details with focus on minimalism. As a final outcome being a mix of Andean oversized silhouettes with the nordic minimalistic details. This vision is important to reach a broader target group while containing the main focus on the simplicity. The changes are important to achieve more focus on details and make the garment even more luxurious and unique. The Nordic details is timeless and functional which is important for the Animana target group.
Creative objective Problem: How to benefit from the artisans’ work and craftsmanship in a best possible way while giving the products a luxurious and unique look to sustain the vision of the company. Solution: Using the existing methods together with the new initiative of adding small details to the garments and extra function as a tool to bring added value and recognition to the company.
Creative requirements The focus is still going to be on the quality and the timeless designs to keep the feeling of the company. The collection is going to maintain the oversized and cocoon silhouette with some designs in even more emphasized shapes. There is going to be more focus on details, for example in form of embroidery. Functionality is going to be more visible in the new collection, changing the perspective from home wear to daily wear. The already existing materials are going to be contained such as linen and wool, also felt wool and leather will be added.
M_6
DESIGN PROPOSAL
Black Bean 19- 3909 TCX
Sundried Tomato 19-1531 TCX
Lunar Rock 14-4201 TCX
Composition: 100% Merino Wool Construction: Chunky Woven
Composition: 100% Llama Wool Construction: Felted
Brazilian Sand 13-1308 TCX
Snow White 11-0602 TCX
The color scale is going to be maintained, so the natural earth colors such as shades of grey and sand tones are going to dominate in the designs. To create a different outcome to the garments accents of red and orange with a mix of brown will be used. All the dyes used are still natural and plant based.
Composition: 100% Linen Construction: Woven
Composition: 100% Genuine Leather Construction: Leather
M_6
MOODBOARD/COLOUR CARD/MATERIALS
M_6
DETAIL & MATERIAL MOODBOARD
M_6
DESIGN PROCESS
M_6
COLLECTION OVERVIEW
M_6
COLLECTION
FASHION & PRINT 0 . __1 .
M_7
DNA: 0.__1 [“oh-one”] is a clothing company that focuses on designs in unusual cuts where aesthetic functionality plays an important role. Combined with bright accent prints in fun and eye-catching manner 0.__1 is quaranteed to make the wearer feel extraordinary and fashionably fresh. Here in 0.__1 our moto is simple: “Be proud of your true self!”
Mission: To create unique, high quality clothing with the spirit of youth, freedom and boldness in mind. Vision: To become a leader in fashionable street wear with fully sustainable approach in every step of the value chain. Values: Celebration of youth. Individuality and uniqueness. Comfort and quality. Social and environmental responsibility.
Concept idea: Collection of cotton shirts for fashionable streetwear designed to feel comfortable at the same time. The collection consists of prints in various sizes and colours, combining photography, graphics and hand drawings in a collage-like style. The prints are not only used in the basis of pattern structure, but also on smaller details such as belts and patches. Target group: Individuals of opinion and a positive look to life, young at heart but not necessarily at age. 0.__1 is designed to celebrate youth, freedom and expression. Inspired by street culture and digital world, combined with 90’s nostalgia 0.__1 offers the wearer a unique, whimsical look. Designs are mostly targeted to active people who are driven by creativity and highly value strong but well-balanced aesthetics that will quarantee standing out of the crowd.
M_7
BRAND DNA
M_7
PERSONA
M_7
TRIANGULATION
M_7
OVERALL MOODBOARD
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COLOUR CARD
M_7
PRINT/SHAPE & DETAIL MOODBOARD
M_7
Design & Function 0.__1. shirts are designed by keeping an eye for detail that can offer extra function to the specific style. Belts and straps in fabric are either attached to the neckline as a collar or as seperate pieces which can be worn in various ways. Belt loops that look more like patches are placed around the wrists or above the elbow. Here the straps can be loosened or gathered tightly to achieve different outcome. The long collar straps can be worn in countless ways by wrapping them around as a scarf, tying around the waist and arms or just knotted on the back and wearing them loose.
DESIGN PROCESS - SKETCHING
#103-81
#101-71
#101-93
#104-72
#105-82
M_7
SINGLE ITEMS / PRINT COLLECTION
ATWORK - PLACEMENT PRINT not actual size
sheet # 2
ATWORK - PLACEMENT PRINT not actual size
A B
A
B
C
C
FRONT
BACK
55cm
46cm
M_7
Background colour: Pantone Bright White 11-0601TCX
PRINT TECHPACK
M_7
ARTWORK - PLACEMENT PRINT 1:1
M_7
ARTWORK - PLACEMENT PRINT 1:1
M_7
ARTWORK - AOP 1:1
M_7
PROTOTYPE
REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL
REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH
CLIENT: 0.__1. SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 1
CLIENT: 0.__1. SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 2
FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL
FRONT
NOTE: All inside seams overlock
FRONT
MEASUREMENT CHART BACK
Point of measurement
Measurement in cm
A 1/2 chest - ar armhole B sleeve length from LPS (low point shoulder) C total length CB from HPS (high point shoulder)
57 50,5 43
M_7
TECHPACK
REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH
REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH
CLIENT: 0.__1. SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 3
FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL
4,5cm
X
Y
x4
x2
sheet # 4
FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL BELT LOOPS/PATCHES
BELT LOOPS/PATCHES 3,5cm
CLIENT: 0.__1. SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016
E
7cm
E
C B
COMMENTS ON PROTO, SIZE S/M
A
B
C
D
FRONTAL VIEW - LEFT SLEEVE
DESCRIPTION: Top with adjustable straps Belt loops/patches (X/Y)
F
Straps (A/B) around wrists (detachable)
F
Strap (C) connected as collar Closure on back
A
D
E h=18cm
FRONTAL VIEW - RIGHT SLEEVE
E F STRAPS
F
C
F A
D
E B
93cm
x2
A
x2
B
x1
C
124cm 190cm
5cm 5cm
M_7
NOTE: Strap B comes in a set/ can be used as optional addition worn above the elbow
5cm
FRONT
BACK
TECHPACK
REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH
CLIENT: 0.__1. SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 5
FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL
PLACEMENT OF PRINT ON PATTERN
FRONT
BACK
M_7
LIANA PABERZA
M_7
KEA 2016