Youth Culture: Then & Now by libbymaskell

Youth Culture: Then & Now

Libby Maskell

Index: YouthCultureDefinition..................................................................................... Index........................................................................................................................... 1980s Skinheads.................................................................................................... Skinhead Music & Politics................................................................................ Skinhead Fashion & Interview....................................................................... 1990s Rave Scene................................................................................................. Ravers Music & Politics..................................................................................... Ravers Fashion & Interview............................................................................. 00s Grime Scene................................................................................................... Grime Music & Politics....................................................................................... Grime Fashion & Interview.............................................................................. Bibliography............................................................................................................ Overall Conclusion...............................................................................................

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1980s Skinheads A movement started in Britain in the 60s when the mod scene met the hippy scene. The mod scene split, and the "hard mods", the ones who hated hippies, got harder. With a little influence from Jamacian rudeboys, the skinhead was born out of the hard mod. Most of the music was held over from the mod days, but there were ska and reggae imported from the rude boys. - Urban Dictionary

(Ridgers,1979)

(Knights, 1981)

(Maskell, 1980)

(Ridgers,1979)

Skinheads: Music and politics "Original skins werent violent, but they stood against mistreatment Shaved their heads and they wore boots too, make a political statement but with their minds and not their fists, they started a fu**ing wave Its been TAKEN and ALTERED into a violent gang!" -Chaotix - Oi Skinhead

Towards the end of the 70s a second wave of skinheads emerged and they were more exaggerated then ever. They stopped listening to the music the original music of Prince Buster and stopped moon stomping around and the music was brought back to the streets, brought back to the real skinhead kids. Bands such as The Clash, 4-skins and Cockeny Rejects used real experiences from the East End to bring it back. The skinhead subculture was originally connected with music such as soul and early reggae but the second wave of skinheads listened to a fusion of reggae, pop and punk rock. The most popular genre of music for second wave skins was 2 Tone with bands such as The Selecter and Madness. Skinhead punk in the early 80s was classic punk with elements of football chants. The first wave of skinheads were not part of any political movement however the second wave of skinheads were majorly involved in politics, they became extremely politically active. There was a large amount of violence beginning to occur in the UK, skinheads soon became a subculture who promoted racism and neo-narzism. However in the mid 80s the antiextremist attitude was classified by the group Oi! Which was another type of skinhead. These types of skins would speak out against racism and neo-narzism about would reinforce the traditional skinhead culture. Skinheads are still around today but are not as dominant as they once where, skins are usually associate with football hooligans, this is because the majority of skinheads traded in their classic red Dr Martins for Adidas trainers and took their music and slotted themselves into casual football culture. A lot of football chants today reminds me of a lot of 1980s skinhead music. Most skinheads now get a bad wrap for being racist and nazis however not all of them where like this as their original music actually came from black music itself. Football culture is still a huge part of youth in 2018 as a lot of teenage boys enjoy going to football games and supporting a specific football team for the culture around it. However they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t realise that most of them football chants or songs probably come from the skinhead subculture, from the songs they once listened to.Â

(Maskell,1983)

(Maskell,1984)

(Rennie,1983)

(Rennie, 1980)

(Maskell, 1984)

(Maskell, 1980)

(Maskell, 1984)

(Ridgers, 1984)

Skinheads: Fashion & Interview "Young skinhead, they call you hooligan Just because you don't make any sense to them You're a hardworking man who's paid his dues But they still call you racist on the evening news" - Dropkick Murphys, 'Never Alone' In the early 80s the typical skinhead fashion was a lot more exaggerated then it ever was before. The typical second wave skinhead would have the classic closely shaved head or even go all the way and have a completely bald head. Typically they wore some sort of button up or polo t-shirt that being a checked shirt or a basic Ben Sherman polo. To go with the shirt or polo they would usually wear bleached Levis and red or blue braces clipped to them, all skinheads owned a bomber jacket which was rather navy, red, kaki or black but it always had a red lining which was usually tartan. For shoes, skins would always be wearing some kind of boots, the most cliche boots for a skin was red Dr Martins. To complete the look they would accessorise with chains, belts, badges and sometimes beanies which they would roll down and just wear in the tip of their heads. To finish the look some of the more dedicated skins would have facial tattoos to really show they were a real Skinhead. Interview with Dave Maskell, My Dad about what the youth was like when he was a young skinhead: How old were you started to associate with being a skinhead? “I suppose it was when I was about 14 years old when it was around 1981 and it was just the fashion at the time, all of the older boys and the older crowd started chopping all their hair off and it sort of influenced us to all do it. Some of my older friends started dressing a different way and all of our friends at the time kind of followed suit.” What music did you listen to? “I listened to Sham 69, Sex Pistols, The Members, Undertones, I was quite mixed like that, Sham 69 was my favourite, I was a punk skinhead then came the mods which I didn’t really get into that because I wasn’t a fan of the music but after the mods came scar skinhead, which was more of Selectar, The Beat and Madness which is still one of my favourite bands.” What was the fashion like? “Dr Martin boots, bleached jeans, braces, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry t-shirt, pork pie hat.” “All the scar music originated from black culture and Jamaican music and then skinhead where all of a sudden labelled as a racist movement, it was down to back in the punk days there was a small group that were racist and its just always such with the subculture. A small group of punks used to stick nazi swazi stickers everywhere and the whole subculture was given the racist label when actually most of us where two-tone skins and rude boys which were mostly black people anyway.” How does it make you feel that now people usually associate skinheads with being racist? “Well its bad isn’t it because it was only the music we enjoyed together and the way we all dressed and it wasn’t about the colour your skin or were you came from at all. It’s a shame the subculture is looked at in that way because all we wanted to do was love the same music.It’s not about how you dressed, people shouldn’t be labelled a certain way just because the way they dress.”

(Swindells, 1993)

1990s Rave Scene Gathering of people centered around listening to and dancing to electronic music, as played by a set of live djs. Originated in 1989 in the UK as underground, often illegal gatherings in abandoned warehouses. Often characterized by the positive, psychedelic atmosphere, influnced often (but not always) by drugs and casual sex. A "raver" is one who goes to raves. Contrary to popular belief, there are many different types of ravers. -Urban Dictionary

(Watson, 1989)

(Maskell,2015)

(Gillespie, 1991)

(Ware, 2014)

(Gillespie, 1991)

(Swindells, 1989)

Ravers: Music & Politics ‘It’s a fascinating phenomenon which can only be explained by the chemical properties of their chosen drug which synthesises the dance inspiring activities of ‘speed’ with the psychedelic properties of LSD and encourages feeling of well-being and ‘love’ for all human beings. It would seem that ravers of different types all share the common problem with a ‘meaningless’ existence and seek a ‘solution’ in unbridled hedonism.’ - Gangs and Youth subculture, Hazlehurst, 1998

The rave scene has always been associated with the illegal drug club scene and rave music is basically made to go with the recreational drug use, the idea of the music is to tighten the effects of the ecstasy and other drugs they may have been taking. The genre of music known as ‘Rave’ Is known as ‘hardcore’ to the early ravers of the late 80s and early 90s. There are many different types of ‘rave music’ which individually goes off into their own part of rave music as a whole, such as; House, Techno and Drum and Bass, these types of music are all presented in the form of Dj sets. House music or specifically Acid house music was the first type of rave music to be played in the earliest raves. Acid house is a type of electronic dance music which originated from the African American disco scene in the 1980s. House music is a constant bass drum with electronic sounds played over the top. Techno music can also be known as EDM (electronic dance music) but this is very similar to techno music, this type of music emerged in Detroit during the late 80s and early 90s. Techno is mainly psychedelic sounds mixed with distorted drum beats. Then drum and bass is a branch off of electronic music which emerged from the jungle scene in the early 90s, this type of music basically explains itself, it is made up of heavy bass beats and sub-bass lines. Drum ’n’ Bass includes many types of other genre of rave music including jungle, dubstep and reggae sounds. Due to the use of illegal drugs at raves they had to create secret parties is abandoned warehouses, fields and hangars, this soon attracted the attention of the police and laws where put in place to stop these types of illegal raves. However when raves first emerged int the late 80s, early 90s the police or government didn’t know how to deal with ravers especially because ravers couldn’t be recognised as they dressed as normal people. In 1994 a law was out into place to give police the power to shut down large events that feature music that is “characterised by the emission of a succession of repetitive beats” which is now Section 63 of the 1994 Criminal Justice Act, to fight against this there was a march with over 50,000 people going from Hyde Part to Trafalgar Square. Since the original acid house music many types of house music have formed such as dubstep and garage house, many ‘house music’ artists now would have been seen as pop music artists however it could have been debated that pop music is just another genre of house music. Raves still happen today but there extremely secretive and not talked about in the mainstream media as its is a very underground culture. However there are now techno and house raves which are legal and are helped in well known clubs and locations but everyone is searched before entering to prevent the use of illegal drugs and also to buy alcohol you have to be over 18 years old. Rave culture is still around in todays culture however it is not very talked about and is not very mainstream as it once was.

(Watson, 1989)

(Ware, 2015)

(Lynham, 2015)

(Ware, 2015)

(Tullberg, 1997)

(Tullberg, 2000)

Ravers: Fashion & Interview “People going to these acid house raves didn’t necessarily look like they were going to one, you didn’t have to dress ridiculously to be a part of the subculture.” -Dr Williams In the 90s rave scene people didn’t always look like they where going to a rave, rave fashion in the 90s was just a mixture of different styles such as; Rastafarianism, goth and a huge part of the 70s psychedelic culture. The look for ravers was baggy and colourful, you may see someone in overalls with a smiley face, paisley or tie-dye t-shirt, accessorised with toy whistles and brightly coloured beads. Most people just wore their casual clothes such as jeans and a t-shirt but accessories with the bright whistles and beads. Rave fashion soon changed, in the mid 90s everyone started to go to raves wearing fury animal suits, Mickey Mouse gloves,Dr.Seuss hats and overall dressing as cartoon characters of animals. Also raver would such on dummies to stop them grinding their teeth, which is a side affect from all the drugs they would’ve taken. Interview with Rosie Maskell, My Sister about rave culture: What were the raves like when you started going ? “Because I was too young to go to I raves, went to squat raves which were illegal raves which were hosted by sort of underground producer/ companies who would illegally squat in building such as warehouses, abandoned schools, office blocks and the woods to have massive raves with unknown DJs and MCs.” What are raves like now? “I wouldn’t go to a squat rave now because they’re been taken over by idiots, their not there for the culture their there to look cool on social media” “I still go to drum and bass festivals and legal raves because the music is better at legals but the atmosphere is nothing compared to a squat rave” How would you find out about the raves? “Through social media, more through knowing people, knowing other people and getting a certain number on the day of the rave to find out the time and location, this is how they would prevent the police finding out about them and shutting them down.” ‘oh yeah, I went to a rave in an abandoned, falling apart, police head quarters once, irony’ What was your favourite rave? “My first ever rave was in the woods in ealing, my favourite would probably in lambeth north which was in an abandoned five story office block and on every floor was a different genre of music, that was good.” What was the Music like at raves you have been to? “Mainly drum and bass, remixes of old school tunes and trance” What is the Fashion like at raves? “Back then it was Nike, Adidas, Stussy, Palace, Huff, over sized t-shirts, bucket hats , five panels and funky sunglasses.” “Now its like charity shop gucci, fendi, moschino but its like the retro not the new stuff.” Did you ever get in trouble with the police? “Not me personally but there was a few casualties at raves where the police would get involved and asked for names and addresses. Nearer to the end of me going to squat raves, the police where shutting them down a lot more because of the bad organisation due to new people taking over and people started to get hurt, thats one of the reasons I stopped going to the illegal ones.” How do you feel about people that go to raves now? “A lot of people that go to raves now purely go to raves to pose about it on social media, its like a fashion show for who can show their best garms and they’re not there for the music. Whereas when me and my friends started going and we still now go for our love for the music and culture similar to why people started raving back in the 90s. Don’t see why people would go to something they don’t enjoy but I guess thats just the society we live in now.”

00s Grime Scene Grime is not garage Grime is not jungle Grime is not hip-hop and Grime is not ragga. Grime is a mix between all of these with strong, hard hitting lyrics. It's the inner city music scene of London. And is also alot to do with representing the place you live or have grown up in. -Urban Dictionary

(Brit Awards, 2015)

(Brosnan, 2017)

(Wheatley, 2005)

(Rose, 2015)

(So Solid Crew, 2001)

(Moe, 1998)

Grime: Music & Politics "Yo, Theresa May, where's that money for Grenfell? What you thought we just forgot about Grenfell You criminals and you got the cheek to call us savages  You should do some jail time, you should pay some damages  We should burn your house down and see if you can manage this . - MPs sniff coke we just smoke a bit of cannabis They'll get me for this so be woke This year I'm dishing out L's and free smoke They tell us that were thugs I try and bust the myth but someone tell the Daily Mail they can suck my..." -Stormzy, Brit Awards 2018 Grime is a genre of music that emerged in London in the early 00s, it developed from electronic, garage and jungle music. This style of music is typically rapid beats with jagged electronic sounds with rapping over the top of the back beats, the lyrics are usually about urban street life and personal experiences. Grime music was first heard on pirated radio stations such as ChannelU, SBTV and the underground scene before it hit the mainstream media in the mid 00s. Channel U, now Channel AKA is a pirated music station which was created by All Around the Work Productions was first established for juts known artists but artists who are just starting out, it helped new musicians get heard and to gain attention and a bit of a fan base. The aim of Channel U was to highlight the raw talent in the UK and give them a platform to perform their work. Grime hit the UK’s mainstream media, showcased by artists such as Dizzee Rascal, Kano and Wiley, these where the artist the brought Grime into the limelight however artists such as Skepta, Stormzy and Jme keep the grime scene alive in todays youth culture. Eskibeat is a style of grime which is a term developed by Wiley and his collaborations which is a mix of dance and electro music elements.

When grime music first came about it was a huge underground scene in East London, now ten years later its the most known music genre by the youth, however the artists that first introduced the scene to the mainstream where hugely criticised by the mainstream media. In 2001, So Solid Crew’s ’21 Seconds’ reached number one on the charts. However shortly after members of the group started to get arrested for possession of firearms and their outbreak into the mainstream slowly died out. Soon grime music caught back up and broke out into the mainstream. In 2018 Grime artists cannot be ignored with Stormy winning Best British male and Best British album at the Birt Awards, but it was his performance at the Brit Awards which shocked people as he spoke out about Grenfell and directly challenged Theresa May. He did this by taking one of his most famous songs but putting a whole new verse in it stated ‘Yo Theresa May, where’s the money for Grenfell? What, you thought we just forgot about Grenfell? You criminals and you’ve got the cheek to call us savages, You should do some jail time, you should pay some damages’. This is not the first time Stormzy has spoken out about politics as he spoke out against May’s government he replied to a tweet, made by the Metropolitan Police stating ‘In the run up to #NottingHillCarnival, officers have this morning seized what is believed too be a kilo of uncut heroin in #Catford’. Stormy snapped back saying ‘How many drugs did you lot seize in the run up to Glastonbury or we only doing tweets like this fro black events?’

(Rose, 2002)

(Wheatley, 2005)

(Brosnan, 2017)

(Wheatley, 2000)

(Grout, 2017)

(Cattermole, 2018)

Grime: Fashion & Interview “The street culture to London, grime’s the soundtrack to that, It runs in parallel: the dress code, the music, they’re all reflection of that.” -DJ Logan Sama, A Gide to Grime Fashion When the grime scene first came into the mainstream UK artists would always be in full sport branded tracksuits with matching branded trainers and it was that way for a very long time. However in 2011 we saw a growth of fashion conscious youths that have adapted that look into luxe streetwear brands such as Supreme, Palace, Patta, Places + Faces, and A-COLD-WALL. But then brands such as Nike and Adidas still provide the grime scene with their classic style or clothing and footwear. The Grime scene style is evolving with boys now wearing cross body bags, luxury trainers and luxe tracksuits but mixing up the matching tracksuit with luxury brand jeans. This new culture of young teens in the grime scene is forever growing and will shape the fashion for the grime scene. Interview with boyfriend, Sam about grime: What do you like about grime music? ‘Its not like any other genre, theres like different levels to it so like you’ll find someone who’s really goos but very unknown and then a few months later they become really popular, its called drill like the new form of grime is drill which is like Loski and sh•t, and its lets them get across their arguments it’s entertaining watching the beef between the different gangs and then its weird comparing your life to the lives which they share through their music and their videos’ What fashion goes with the culture grime? ‘Mad tracksuits, balaclavas, expensive jeans and then really expensive shit like theres no inbetween, the tracksuits and sometimes trainers are like Nike and Adidas but the accessories are the expensive stuff like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Giuseppe and some of the wear Loubs. Everything they wear is different from the next person, especially in the gangs none of them wear the same stuff yet they still look similar.’ Why is it that people who are involved with grime music usually get involved with police? ‘Mainly because now Grime is all about being the biggest on the scene and its bad but its all about who’s the biggest drug dealer, who’s got the biggest gang, and who’s got the best weapon and stuff like that but really it shouldn’t be that way it should just be about the music’ How do you think grime has changed since it first evolved when it was first on pirated radios? ‘It used to just be about getting a flow with the beat and now its all about the gangs and the violence rather then just rapping about life and experiences. Like then it was about the music and its just turned into something much bigger and I don’t think theres anyway of getting it back to just a group of people all loving the same music.’ How has grime effected the youth of today? ‘Its had a massive impact on the new generation of teenagers, like before you would see one or two people it tracksuits or one or two people smoking weed but now theres groups of kids doing it just to fit in the what they think is the normal thing to do and juts fitting in with the mainstream media.’

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Overall Conclusion: From completing this project Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learnt that social media has a huge impact on peoples choices in fashion and music. While doing research about the youth from the 80s, 90s and 00s I realised that the youth now are a lot more social media based when it come to their music and fashion choices, I realised this when I completed my interview with my sister about rave culture. In the interview we discussed how the majority of the youth now go to raves just to show off on social media about it and there are rarely any people who go for the music anymore, which in my opinion is a massive shame because I wish it was just about the music and experiences but now its more about posting it on social media. Overall I feel like the youth of today is very social media based and a lot of our choices in life in general are made from the things we see on social media on a day to day basis which personally I thinks its a shame weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve let the technology take over in this way. Although its just the generation we live in and the technology is just forever going to evolve. However growing up in this environment has taught me to appreciate originality.

(Maskell, 2018)