This collection uses standard UK crochet terms, US equivalents can be found on the abbreviations page. All patterns belong to Vicki Brown, you may sell items made from these pattens but you may NOT download, copy or print the patterns themselves for sale or free distribution. www.vickibrowndesigns.com Photography - Kasia Fiszer www.kasiafiszer.com Technical Editor - Joanne Scrace www.notsogranny.com
Copyright © 2016 by Vicki Brown All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher.
contents Introduction
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4
Abbreviations
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7
Notes
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8
The Socks
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9
Spring Fling
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10
Hop Socks
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14
Fallen Leaves
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18
Sparkler
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22
Mulled Wine
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27
Winter Wonder
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32 
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Introduction People often seem surprised by the idea of crochet socks. I regularly hear cries of ‘I never thought of crochet socks!’. Of course, you can crochet anything. If you’re a crocheter who frequents the internet I’m sure you’ve seen with your own eyes that just because you can, doesn’t always mean you should! When it comes to socks however you absolutely should. Having been a sock knitter for many many years, when it came to crochet socks I found it difficult to find any patterns that didn’t look bulky, stiff and uncomfortable. Tempted to try my hand at knitting lacy socks but lacking the confidence, I turned to my trusty crochet stitches and a new love was born. You really can make crochet socks that are comfortable, beautiful and practical. I won’t lie to you, crochet does not have the same stretch and flexibility as knitting does, but by utilising the stretch it does have and finding the right stitches, crochet socks are very much a possibility. In this collection are six designs that all have different techniques, different stitches and varying heel and toe constructions. These are socks that are designed to work, be loved and be put through their paces!
Choosing Yarns The best choice of yarn for socks is undoubtedly 4ply sock yarn, preferably with added nylon in a superwash wool. The nylon will give your socks extra flexibility and the the superwash element will mean you can throw them in the washing machine. By all means choose something more luxurious if you like, I used a super soft
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cashmere blend for the Winter Wonder socks, but bear in mind these will require special care. For best results always check the ball band of you yarn for care instructions. All of the patterns in this collection use 1 skein of 100g sock yarn. I’ve used a different UK indie dyer for each pair of socks, because quite simply there are just so many lovely ones out there to choose from.
swatching Every pattern gives you a gauge measurement. This is really important if you want your socks to fit! Very simply put this measurement is what is used as the basis of the entire pattern. If you’re even a stitch out your socks will take on a different size and shape. That being said don’t be put off by those numbers. Just make sure you work a gauge swatch before you begin. Instructions are given in each pattern as to the stitch you should use to measure this and the hook size I recommend. Once you’ve made your swatch, give it a wash and a block and take the measurements. Don’t be surprised if your numbers are completely different to mine. Crochet is like handwriting, we are all different we all hold our yarn differently and our tension will vary. Just change your hook size accordingly. If you’re getting more stitches per cm, go up a hook size if you’re getting less go down.
finishing The socks in this book require very little finishing. Apart from the Spring Fling socks (which have an afterthought heel) all the socks should only have two ends to weave in: your starting end and your finishing end. Weave in your ends after blocking as your socks may change size and shape and the ends may not be threaded in as well as they could. To tuck those ends away use a tapestry needle, thread
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your yarn on to the needle and bury it under your stitches on a couple of rounds to really secure it away. For the cuff down socks (Spring Fling and Hop Socks) there will be the added job of seaming the toe, but this is not a difficult job and one which is quickly done with your crochet hook as soon as you’re finished (instructions can be found at the end of these patterns).
Blocking Blocking your socks will open up any lacy stitch patterns and just generally give them a nicer look and feel. First job is to soak them, I use a no rinse wash, such as Euclan or Soak, but plain water would work just as well if they’re not dirty. Fill a basin or bowl with tepid water, drop your socks in and leave to soak (around 10 minutes should do it) don’t move them around too much, especially if you’re not using a superwash yarn. After their soaking time, gently squeeze out as much water as you can, then using a clean dry towel, roll them inside and press down (I actually stand on mine!) this will remove more of the water. For the blocking part, I use some sock blockers, which you can find for sale in various yarn stores and online. They are simply sock shaped, flat frames which you can put your socks on to dry after soaking. I love them and they are great for making sure you block to the correct size and shape but they are not necessary. If you don’t have sock blockers you can just lay your freshly soaked socks out on a blocking mat or towel and gently pin to size. Once they are fully dry unpin and you’re done.
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abbreviations The patterns in this collection use UK terms, please see descriptions in brackets below for US equivalents. BLO Work in the back loop only Ch Chain Ch sp Chain space Cont Continue Dc Double Crochet (Single Crochet) Dc2tog Double Crochet two stitches together (Single Crochet two stitches together) Dec Decrease Fdc Foundation Double Crochet (Foundation Single Crochet) Fhtr Foundation Half Treble (Foundation Half Double Crochet) Htr Half Treble Crochet (Half Double Crochet) Htr2tog Half Treble Crochet two stitches together (Half Double Crochet two stitches together) Pm Place Marker Rem Remaining Rep Repeat Rnd Round RS Right Side Sl st Slip stitch St(s) Stitch(es) Tr Treble Crochet (Double Crochet) WS Wrong Side
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notes Markers :: Unless otherwise indicated, once a marker has been placed, move it each round keeping it in place. You may find it easier to use a piece of scrap yarn as a marker, that way you can trap the end between the last and the first stitches of the round easily, without having to re-attach a marker each time. Sizes :: Sizing information is provided in the chart for each pattern. The measurements listed for circumference and length are the finished sizes. The best thing to do is to measure the ball of your foot to gauge your foot circumference and work the size most suited. The size table below shows the measurements that the socks were designed for. Crochet has a lot more stretch in the length than it does in the width, so your sock will fit better if you have little or no negative ease in the width but instead have negative ease in the length. Sizes are listed in order, with the smallest size first and subsequent sizes listed in brackets. I recommend reading through the pattern in it’s entirety before beginning and circling or highlighting the size you wish to make.
Size
S
M
L
to fit foot circumference cm
17.5
20.5
23
to fit foot circumference in
7
8
9
to fit foot length cm
23
25.5
28
to fit foot length in
9
10
11
Evenly Work :: Where you are required to ‘evenly work x sts’ you need to work the number of stitches specified around a certain area. I recommend using markers to split the area into quarters which will assure your stitches are evenly spaced. Once you’ve marked your 4 quarters, divide the stitches you need to work by 4 then work that number into each quarter space.
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Spring Fling These socks are light and cool, using a cluster stitch they are really stretchy in the length. I used a yarn with bamboo content to make them perfect for warmer days. Worked top down a ribbed cuff is created by working alternating rows of half treble and double crochet stitches into the back loop only, before joining and working down the leg. These socks are worked without shaping, a gap is left for the heel which is added at the end.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
17.5
20
23
foot circumference in
6.75
8
9
foot length cm
18.5
21
23.5
foot length in
7.25
8.25
9.25
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Devon Suns Yarns, Bambino (80% merino 20% bamboo, 100g/400m/ 437yds per skein) • 1 skein in Yellow.
• 3.5mm/US 4/E (or size needed to achieve gauge). • 3mm/US C
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Notions
• Tapestry Needle. • 4 Removable Stitch Markers
hop Socks Worked top down, these ankle socks have a really stretchy ribbed cuff that folds over, reminiscent of the school socks I wore as a child. A traditional heel flap is worked with gusset shaping. The socks are worked almost entirely in double crochet with a pretty cluster edge applied at the end.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
16
19
21.5
foot circumference in
6.25
7.5
8.5
foot length cm
18.5
21
23.5
foot length in
7.25
8.25
9.25
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Eden Cottage Yarns, BFL Sock (100% Bluefaced Leicester, 100g/ 400m/436yds per skein) • 1 skein in Blossom.
• 3.5mm/US 4/E (or size needed to obtain gauge). • 3mm/US C
Notions • Tapestry Needle. • 3 Removable Stitch Markers
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fallen leaves These socks are warm and cosy, they are worked in a moss style stitch which is squidgy and soft, perfect for cooler autumn days. The high heel and gusset shaping gives these socks a fantastic fit. Worked toe up with a cuff worked vertically at the end.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
17
20.5
27
foot circumference in
6.75
8
9
foot length cm
21
23.5
27
foot length in
8.25
9.25
10.5
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Juno Fibre Arts, Buffy (100% Bluefaced Leicester, 100g/365m/400yds per skein) • 1 skein in Conker.
• 3.5mm/US 4/E (or size needed to achieve gauge).
Notions • Tapestry Needle. • 2 Removable Stitch Markers
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sparkler Worked toe up with a heel created using short rows and wedges, these socks use linked half treble making them hardwearing and warm. Perfect as the weather turns.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
17.5
21
22.5
foot circumference in
7
8.25
9
foot length cm
22
24
27
foot length in
8.5
9.5
10.5
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Pollyorange, (75% Merino, 20% nylon, 5% Silver Stellina 100g/400m/ 437yds per skein) • 1 skein in Sparkler.
• 3.5mm/US 4/E (or size needed to achieve gauge).
Notions • Tapestry Needle. • 3 Removable Stitch Markers
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Mulled Wine Glamorous and sophisticated, perfect for festive celebrations, I picture these socks over sparkly tights inside a pair or gorgeous heels. Worked toe up with a solid sole and lacy top, a reversed turned heel and lacy ankle, finished with a ribbed cuff.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
17.5
19.25
22.5
foot circumference in
6.75
7.5
8.75
foot length cm
21.5
24.5
27
foot length in
8.5
9.75
10.5
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Fyberspates, Vivacious 4ply (80% Superwash Merino, 20% Nylon, 100g/365 m/399 yds per skein) • 1 skein in Spiced Plum
• 3.25mm/US D(or size needed to achieve gauge).
Notions • Tapestry Needle. • 2 Removable Stitch Markers
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winter wonder A cosy sock, perfect for cold nights, crocheted in a sumptuous cashmere blend these make fabulous bed socks and would make a luxurious gift. Crocheted toe up with a square toe, they use a tramline stitch and are finished with a snowflake stitch edging.
Size
S
M
L
foot circumference cm
16.5
20
22.5
foot circumference in
6.5
8
9
foot length cm
19
20.5
22.5
foot length in
7.5
8
8.75
Yarn
Hook
1 x 100g of sock yarn. I used :: Habetrot Fibres, Gorgon 4ply (80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon, 100g/350 m/383 yds per skein) • 1 skein in Greys
• 3.5mm/US 4/E(or size needed to achieve gauge).
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Notions • Tapestry Needle. • 2 Removable Stitch Markers
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