Acne S/S 17 Lookbook by Lindsay Clarke

look

Acne Studios Spring 17

book 1

Acne Studios Spring 17

“ACNE” STANDS FOR: AMBITION TO CREATE NOVEL EXPRESSIONS

This is the very foundation of the brand itself. Acne Studios does not aim to follow trends, rather we create simple, functional clothing that fits into the wearer’s existing wardrobe. Originally inspired by the fusing of form and function seen in Scandinavian architecture and furniture design, the Acne brand mimics this simplicity it our clothing. “Cool anonymity” is a virtue for a company that was originally built on a pair of jeans.

Acne Studios Spring 17

ACNE S L. NY STOCK

Acne Studios Spring 17

TUDIOS G. 23 HOLM

Acne Studios Spring 17

SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTION & INSPIRATION

Acne Studios Spring 17

NEW COLLECTION

ALL ACCESS

AN EXCLUSIVE BACKSTAGE PASS TO LAST SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FALL/WINTER 2016 SHOW AT PARIS FASHION WEEK

INTERVIEW

ACCESSORIES

SPRING/SUMMER 2017 ACCESSORIES - OUR FAVORITES

84 SCANDINAVIAN INTERIORS INSPIRATION

WE TOOK A TOUR OF A WORKPLACE THAT INSPIRED ACNE STUDIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LATEST COLLECTION.

Acne Studios Spring 17

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH OUR FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JONNY JOHANSSON

Acne Studios Spring 17

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JONNY JOHANSSON PAYS HOMAGE TO MINIMALISTIC MID-CENTURY SCANDINAVIAN FURNITURE & INTERIOR DESIGN.

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16 Acne Studios Spring 17

Blouse: Bellevue Ring Top $490

Acne Studios Spring 17

19 Acne Studios Spring 17 Sunglasses: Howard Yellow C$550 Blouse: Heidi White C$220

Acne Studios Spring 17

Jacket: Motorcycle Jacket C$2200 Trousers: Olga Cotton Culottes White C$520 Shoes: Adriana Stripe Sandal C$350

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EXTREME PROPORTIONS, ROBE COATS AND JACKETS THAT ARE FINISHED WITH UTILITARIAN TRIMMINGS STRIKE JUST THE RIGHT CHORD.

Acne Studios Spring 17

Sweater: Anastasia Orange C$350

Sunglasses: Howard Yellow C$550 Vest: Maje Oversized Slate Grey C$1050

Acne Studios Spring 17

25 Acne Studios Spring 17 Blouse: Bellevue Ring Top $490 Trousers: Olga Cotton Culottes White C$520

26 Acne Studios Spring 17

Coat: Tilda Denim Duster C$620 Sweater: Anastasia Orange C$350 Trousers: Olga Cotton Culottes White C$520

Acne Studios Spring 17

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Jacket: Motorcycle Jacket C$2200 Blouse: Heidi White C$220 Trousers: Kauai Silk Pant Green C$650

Acne Studios Spring 17

ACNE STUDIOS CREATIVE DIRECTOR JONNY JOHANSSON ISN’T ONE FOR POLITICAL FASHION STATEMENTS, PREFERRING TO MAKE CLOTHES THAT REFLECT EXPERIENCES IN HIS INNER WORLD. GIVEN THE CURRENT STATE OF GLOBAL EVENTS, HOWEVER, IT’S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO FEEL PERSONALLY AFFECTED. THE REFUGEE CRISIS CONTINUES TO DOMINATE THE CONVERSATION IN EUROPE, AND PROMPTED JOHANSSON TO LOOK FOR INSPIRATION OUTSIDE THE BORDERS OF HIS NATIVE SWEDEN, TOWARD THE RICH TEXTILE TRADITIONS OF THE COUNTRIES WHERE MANY HAVE BEEN DISPLACED.

Acne Studios Spring 17

31 Acne Studios Spring 17 Hat: Baseball Cap C$150 Blazer: Sydney Black C$720 Trousers: Olivia Black C$700

32 Acne Studios Spring 17

STAYING TRUE TO OUR ROOTS, THE S/S 17 COLLECTION FEATURES OVERSIZED SHAPES AND WORKWEAR SILHOUETTES.

Acne Studios Spring 17

Sunglasses: Howard Yellow C$550 Vest: Maje Oversized Slate Grey C$1050 Shoes: Adriana Stripe Sandal C$350 Bag: Leather Hand Bag Ruck C$1050

34 Acne Studios Spring 17

Jacket: Motorcycle Jacket C$2200 Trousers: Olga Cotton Culottes White C$520 Shoes: Adriana Stripe Sandal C$350 Bag: Leather Hand Bag Ruck C$1050

Acne Studios Spring 17

37 Acne Studios Spring 17 Blouse: Heidi White C$220 Trousers: Kauai Silk Pant Green C$650 Shoes: Adriana Sandal Black C$350

Acne Studios Spring 17

Blouse: Bellevue Ring Top $490

Acne Studios Spring 17

HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NICOLE EHGOETZ STYLING BY LINDSAY CLARKE & OLIVIA HOMES DIRECTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDSAY CLARKE

Acne Studios Spring 17

GO ACNE S DOT

Acne Studios Spring 17

TO TUDIOS COM

Acne Studios Spring 17

THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO GET READY WITH US. AN EXCLUSIVE BEHIND-THE-SCENES LOOK INTO THE ACNE STUDIOS FALL/WINTER 16 SHOW BACKSTAGE AT PARIS FASHION WEEK.

Acne Studios Spring 17

THE DISTINCTIVE GEOMETRIC MOTIFS COMMONLY FOUND IN ARABIC NATIONS, INCLUDING SYRIA, WERE WOVEN THROUGHOUT THE COLLECTION, WITH HEFTY SWEATER DRESSES THAT LOOKED LIKE THEY MIGHT HAVE BEEN CUT FROM HAND-KNOTTED BYZANTINE RUGS, AND KAFTANS THAT APPEARED LIKE A PATCHWORK OF THE SCARVES WORN BY NOMADIC TRIBES IN THE SAHARA.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY KUBA DABROWSKI

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Acne Studios FOUNDER JONNY JOHANSSON

IS NOT DOWN WITH THE CELEBRITY FASHION OBSESSION We talked to Acne Studios founder, Johnny Johansson about the celebrity circus, his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style, and those signature pink bags on the eve of Acne opening a flagship store in New York. Photography by David Sims Story by Noah Johnson

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“I find sometimes fashion becomes about exoticism. I think the reality is more interesting,you know, everyday life in a way.” You mean when you started Acne?

We started the company when I was twenty-six. So, even though we’ve been around for a while, starting companies at the age twenty-six is maybe not something I would suggest. I’m just happy I got through that period. I feel more like I can actually say I’m a designer today, which I didn’t do at that time.

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isit any Acne Studios store in the world—you pick, could be any one of the Swedish label’s locations in Paris, New York, L.A., Seoul, Hong Kong or one of the other 24 cities around world—and you’ll likely find the most-perfectly cut nylon bomber jacket hanging on the rack next to a sweater covered in jacquard hotdogs; or a crazy pair of pleated, high-gloss polyurethane trousers beside some simple, elegant wool suit pants. Point is: No other brand is menswear has more perfectly balanced the eccentric with the essential. Makes sense, then, that Acne, founded by creative director Jonny Johansson and three partners in 1996, started out making something that can be equal parts both: jeans. Today, the brand is a rising player in global fashion, capable of hanging with the most avant-garde and mass market designers alike. That duality just might be what makes the seemingly anonymous brand with the funny pink shopping bags so compelling right now. We sat down with the elusive designer to figure out what makes him tick—and what’s making Acne grow. Q: Do you feel like your collections have gotten increasingly personal to you with each season? Jonny Johansson: I’m really into the word “honest” in fashion. I’m trying to stay contemporary, you know, and also personal at the same time. I find sometimes fashion becomes about exoticism. I think the reality is more interesting, you know, everyday life in a way. Is that what feels more natural to you? Yeah, it also comes with confidence. I’m not so nervous about what people are going to think. If people like what I do it’s good, but when I was younger I was trying to please others and then I lost some of my honesty.

Some of your designs really push the boundaries of traditional fashion for men. Do you feel compelled to introduce more new ideas to menswear? When I was a kid in school, I was always embarrassed by how my dad was dressing, and he tried to push some boundaries. Then after a while I started doing it myself. It’s always been about communication for me with fashion, not so much about fitting in only. How did your dad dress? He just did his own thing. He wasn’t dressed exactly like the best parents— what I thought were the best parents. It was embarrassing then, but now is he an inspiration. It’s always been. I always look back and I see where the energy comes from. I don’t want to shock people. It’s not about that for me at all. I don’t want to be a spectacle or an event. But to have some sort of reaction is actually something I need. When people look at the clothing, when people wear it—that’s what I really like. I’m not into celebrities or anything like that. Pop culture and fashion are so connected now. Does that inspire you much? There’s always this need for companies to promote themselves via celebrities, but I think it’s a double-edged sword. I like Drake for instance, I think he’s an amazing songwriter, but I’d like it to stay that way. I’m not the person that needs to crossbreed, or have to dress him in my clothing. I think what’s interesting is when people find your clothing and they interpret it in their own way. Otherwise it seems manufactured. The whole celebrity circus has always scared me—you would like somebody to ask for your clothing rather than forcing them to wear your clothing. I like the celebrities to stay at a distance. I’d rather watch them or just enjoy what they do, than label them. You become very bored, I think even when the celebrities go to the fashion shows in the clothing that is made for them from that brand—do people really buy that? I’m not sure.

It can also just be a way for brands to get more exposure on Instagram and social media. Yeah true, but I also think there’s a lot of things in fashion people think they have to do. Do you see what I mean with that? This is like an industry where there’s a lot of truth and things you should do that isn’t right. You know, you’re supposed to, I meet a lot of like young designers that want to part of the fashion circus, and actually, you know, it’s not a circus. It’s really about expression. Creative expression within that field. It’s not about who’s wearing it, really. I like the democratic point of view rather than the exclusive.

Have you ever wanted to dress a celebrity in Acne Studios?

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I liked Prince, and I like the way he dressed and he’s been inspiring obviously, but I think there’s something else going on at the moment in these last ten years. It’s been more about branding than anything else. Like if I see Rihanna for instance, you know, it’s just the latest brand. There’s no expression. She expresses amazingly with her voice, but the other communication is soulless. Branded. Speaking of branding. What’s up with the pink shopping bags?

“I liked Prince, and I like the way he dressed and he’s been inspiring obviously, but I think there’s something else going on at the moment in these last ten years. It’s been more about branding than anything else.”

They have become sort of iconic for fashion fans, and they are so instantly recognizable. Has that kind of branding been important for you and the company? I wanted this pink paper because people considered pink being ugly. They didn’t want the pink bag. And that’s like when we did the first pair of jeans—I gave it to a lot of my friends and most of my friends said “yes, thank you,” but didn’t use the clothing and thought it was pretty weird. The same with the pink bag. If everybody thinks it’s beautiful, it’s wrong in a way. I don’t want it to be sort of, blah, you know, like soulless. I want it to have some sort of energy, and I can tell you when we did the pink bag, it was not very popular, but I knew—I’m like the pink generation. I don’t think there’s another generation that will put up with pink. What about the store interiors? They are instantly recognizable, too. I think it’s based on the joy of doing it more than anything else. I always said that I don’t want the McDonald’s concept, or like a Gucci sort of store where it’s all looking the same. Not that I don’t like Gucci, but they’re always very, very similar everywhere. They create the format and then they mass distribute. And that becomes a bit disconnected from time, disconnected from the area, or the place they’re in. I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.

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The new Acne Studios global flagship store is opening in New York Soon. Why New York? Do you feel a special connection to the city? For me, I’m like a golden retriever. You know that kind of dog? If you show some affection or love, it will come running after you happily. That’s how I felt about New York. It’s always been really good to me. We’re aliens almost everywhere we are, in terms of brands, we’re not like a Milan or New York or Paris for that matter. Personally, the first time I think I was nineteen or whenever I was in New York. So since then it’s been sort of like a love relationship. I think it’s a neutral and it’s a multicultural place, and that’s where the future is. You spent time here as a kid, right? Were you into the club scene?

Tell me a bit about what you had in mind for the Fall collection? Military service is mandatory in Sweden. So I did military service, and when I went there, I remember I had to wear military clothing from the fifties. Which was pretty interesting. With boots that you don’t know how many people have walked in. And I always thought it was an amazing thing how durable and how iconic those clothing have become. I saw a kid in the street dressed exactly how I did. I took those military clothes to be like creative and stand out. And I see people do the same now, so it’s a contemporary subject. Also, the Swedish military is going away. It’s getting smaller and smaller and smaller and smaller, and the world is talking more and more and more about wars.

Yeah, I think, when we got our first press recognition, I was asked, like in every interview if we were doing Scandinavian design, and I never really understood how to answer the question. I did a big project on a Scandinavian architect, it took like one year, to see if I have some relationship to Scandinavian design, trying to figure out what it is. My big conclusion was that I’m a maximalist, unfortunately. And the thing is, I think maximalism is more important and democratic than minimalism. Minimalism is very restricted. We’re more related to nature in terms of colors, and textures, how things are produced or whatever it is, and then at the same time very functional. You may be a maximalist, but Acne Studios is really good at making, simple, well-designed basic pieces. Do you think about those items differently than you do the more progressive stuff? I don’t. No. I always think that they have the same value of something that’s more abstract. I believe a lot that they have the same value. It’s very common for designers to put in a hierarchy. I don’t like that, I think they’re as important in the big picture.

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Do you ever feel like the history of Scandinavian design is a burden in a way? That people want to lump you into that tradition even if you don’t really fit?

Yeah, I’ve been standing, I don’t know what time at night at The Tunnel, and wondering what I was doing there, when that was cool. I didn’t have a neon thing around my neck, but I was there.

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Sunglasses: Mustang pink/fluo pink C$410 Acne Studios Mustang pink/fluro pink are handmade oval frame acetate sunglasses.

Acne Studios Spring 17

Sunglasses: Mustang off white/blac C$410 Acne Studios Mustang off white/black are handmade oval frame acetate sunglasses.

Acne Studios Spring 17

77 Acne Studios Spring 17 Bag: Rop Hip Grain White/Black C$1350 Acne Studios Rope Hip white/black is a leather hip bag with two tone rope lanyard.

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Shoes: Adriana Metallic silver C$550 Acne Studios Adriana metallic silver are feminine sneakers in a metallic calf leather.

Acne Studios Spring 17

Amina Nappa black C$630 Acne Studios Anima black are pointed babouche slide shoes with thin leather soles and folded backs typical of the style.

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Coin Purse: Garnet G tan / white/ black C$240 Acne Studios Garnet black is a small coin purse with classic styling.

Acne Studios Spring 17

Earrings: Nanda gold C$470 Acne Studios Nanda gold are small earrings with a diagonal cut and angular edges.

83 Acne Studios Spring 17 Ring: Neige gold C$310 Acne Studios Neige gold is a minimalist ring with a diagonal cut at the top and angular edges.

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Musubi Shopper black C$2400 Acne Studios Musubi shopping black is a large shopper inspired by the knot in a traditional Japanese obi sash.

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We took a tour of a workplace that inspired Acne Studio’s latest collection.

anish studio Norm Architects has taken influences from both Scandinavian and Japanese design to create this pared-back gallery and workspace for Kinfolk magazine in central Copenhagen

The local studio worked closely with Kinfolk’s editorin-chief Nathan Williams and communications director Jessica Gray to develop the design, which features a gallery as well as an office. The aim was to create a collaborative workspace where the magazine’s staff could meet together but also invite friends and

Acne Studios Spring 17

SCANDINAVIAN INTERIORS

partners to share ideas. A palette of wood and plaster in muted tones creates an informal, home-like environment that is more akin to a lounge than an office.Much like human wellbeing, the essence of our work is found in balance – between richness and restraint, between order and complexity,” said Norm Architects. “Our vision is to look beyond sight. We want to create spaces that feel good in every way. “ The space is divided into three zones that increase in privacy as they recede back from the street. A large shop window fronts the

Acne Studios Spring 17

This open-plan workspace is furnished with banks of bespoke oak tables, and has walls covered in sandy-toned plaster that give them a “special earthy wabi-sabi quality”. The plasterwork is intended to echo the facades of Copenhagen’s neoclassical buildings. “The interior architecture is minimalist but thoughtful, with attention to every little detail,” said the architects. “Every single tone, nuance and material in the space has been carefully selected to create a harmonious, precise and natural feel with haptic qualities that we felt were well suited for the Kinfolk credo of slow living.” Spaces are furnished with off-the-peg pieces from design brands Menu, Vitra and Muuto, while a custom leather-upholstered bench below the front window provides a spot for impromptu meetings or people watching.

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first space, which faces out onto Amagertorv and is used as a gallery space. The Kinfolk Gallery opened earlier this year with a first exhibition focusing on contemporary furniture. The second space centres on a large round table and features wooden shelving, as well as plush orange sofas and a glass coffee table. “While the gallery and office areas are spacious and connected into one openspace plan, the back rooms are more classic Copenhagen style with small rooms and wooden moulding and millwork,” explained the architects. The final section is completely disconnected from the public areas – both physically and in terms of style.

This open-plan workspace is furnished with banks of bespoke oak tables, and has walls covered in sandytoned plaster that give them a “special earthy wabi-sabi quality”.

“The big sitting nook in the corner is created with an inspiration from the Japanese tokonoma,” explained the architects. “In traditional Japanese architecture you don’t break the rectangularity of the rhythm of tatami. Niches and storage are pushed out of the rectangular space, as is the case here.”

Acne Studios Spring 17

“While the tokonoma is usually for displaying important scrolls, this nook is meant as a small space where you can curl up with a book or your laptop,” they added.

Acne Studios Spring 17

www.acnestudios.com

Acne Studios Spring 17

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/acne-studios

https://www.dezeen.com/2016/11/21/norm-architects-minimalist-workspace-office-gallery-interior-design-kinfolkmagazine-copenhagen-denmark/

https://www.endclothing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/0/image/1000x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d2713 6e95/2/4/24-01-2013_acne_jean_d4.jpg

http://saturdaysmagazine.com/img/004/@2x/06.jpg

http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/gallery/backstage-at-acne-studios-rtw-spring-10612928/#!78/ backstage-at-acne-studios-rtw-spring-2017-78

Acne Studios Spring 17

ACNE S L. NY STOCK

Acne Studios Spring 17

TUDIOS G. 23 HOLM

100 Acne Studios Spring 17

“ACNE” STANDS FOR: AMBITION TO CREATE NOVEL EXPRESSIONS This is the very foundation of the brand itself. Acne Studios does not aim to follow trends, rather we create simple, functional clothing that fits into the wearer’s existing wardrobe. Originally inspired by the fusing of form and function seen in Scandinavian architecture and furniture design, the Acne brand mimics this simplicity it our clothing. “Cool anonymity” is a virtue for a company that was originally built on a pair of jeans.