The Hamster Mag -Issue 1 by Linford27

Issue 01 January 2013

…to a Ham-tastic first issue!

A very good squeak to you all! Welcome to the first issue of Hamster Central’s own The Hamster Mag. We’re all just a little bit nuts for Hamsters over at Hamster Central. We’re a source of information, support, advice, comfort, even entertainment! But most of all, we’re a community of friends who share a love of Hamsters. In our new e-zine, The Hamster Mag, you’re in for a Hamster-sized treat as we present you with articles, stories and pictures from our very own forum members! From health and housing, to unique and individual stories full of fluff! For our first issue we’ve stuffed the best and the brightest into our cheek pouches to give you a thorough idea of what we’re all about from toe to tail.

Subscribe to our e-zine mailing list now! Turn to page 39 for more information. 2

Issue 01 January 2013

Pet Class Just what is Pet Class and what does it mean for Hamsters? HorseyMandz and her Hamster Minnie give us the guided tour of Hamster Shows and where our hip Hamsters fit in! On page 04

The Hamster Diaries Each issue we visit a different Hamster, camp in their cage and get a sneak peek at what it’s like to be them and live with their humans. This month we’re visiting Detective Timi and his human Laura. On page 23

To seed or not to seed? Ever wanted to know more about what’s happy and Featured Article; All about Aquarium Habitats healthy for your Hamster? Knotty shows us the 101 of Have you ever been curious about all the other Hamster nutrition and food requirements. On page 06 housing possibilities for your Hamster? Do cages seem unattractive and insufficient? Our very own Bar Chewing Cracked Strephanie Reesor takes you through the basics of Clang, clang, clang. Is your Ham chewing things it Aquarium and Tank Habitats to prep you for the shouldn’t be? Cage bars for instance? Oh no! Worry ride! On page 26 not, we’re here to help! The ever-bothersome Bar Chewing habit gets cracked by HorseyMandz! Health Corner On page 12 In this issue’s Health Corner, Susie talks to us about the ever-underestimated and ever-illusive Pumpkin’s World Wet Tail. Right down to the medical details. Susie AnimalMadCait’s super Syrian Pumpkin talks about her shows you how to spot the early signs, what to do life and very important hamster issues from her own and how to do it. On page 30 diva-perspective! This issue Pumpkin chats with us about how important it is to have the right sized cage! How to: Toilet Roll Tube Tutorial! On page 13 In this issue’s How to, the lovely bonkers4hamsters shows us 10 different toys for Ask the Expert our Hamsters out of those lingering loo rolls Do you have a burning Hamster question that you keep about the house. getting multiple answers to? Or can you just not find On page 35 the right information no matter where you look? In our Ask the Expert section, we answer the important Submissions? questions nibbling away at you! On page 15 Do you want to write an article or have a photograph of your Hamster featured in The Jenny Sews Hamster Mag? Find out how here! On page 39 Jenny talks about her colourful and creative hobbies, how they sparked a career and Homemade Toys for Introducing… our wee fuzzy ones! This is where can find details on the Hamster On page 16 Central forum, The Hamster Mag staff and Hamster at my Door; Mowgli’s Story contributors. We offer hamster-sized cookies to This month we’re honoured to read Mowgli’s amazing all our contributors! On page 40 story as written by her owner by Strephanie Reesor in all it’s fuzzy, heart touching glory! On page 18

Issue 01 January 2013

8:00am - Mummy must have got up because there’s lots of clattering around. She seems to be very excited about something! Oh well, I’m going back to bed. 11.15am - Mummy woke me up and took me out of my nest and now I’m in a strange little tank with hardly any room in it at all! It’s got a blue top to it so I can’t get out! Mummy calls it a ‘Travel Tank’ and says that ‘a good sized one is important if you want to go to a hamster show.’ Luckily it’s got food and water in it (Mummy says the cucumber is my water), as well as a nice chewing stick and a toilet roll tube. I think she’s also given me some toilet roll to make a nest. Help me! I’m really confused. Is this my new cage? 11.30am - Woah, it’s cold! I want to get out! Perhaps if I run about a lot then Mummy will understand! 11.35am - Why is the ground moving? Oh, I really don’t like this. Perhaps if I burrow down and make a nest then I will stop moving.

11.45am - I’m in this big noisy place with lots of other people. I can smell the other hamsters. A strange lady woke me up and turned me upside down to check that I was a girl hamster. The indignity! Of course I’m a girl hamster! Mummy got me out to give me a treat and then I nearly fell off the ‘table.’ 12.00pm - It’s actually quite cosy but I’m still not going to be able to... zzzz. 12.30pm - Mummy keeps letting strange people hold me. She says they’re members of ‘Hamster Central.’ They both smelled like other hamsters, and I think Mummy must have been holding other hamsters as well because she smelt like other hamsters when I got back to her. On the bright side, I got lots of treats! 1.30pm - Mummy!? You’re really annoying me now. What did you wake me up for? To give me some water from a water bottle? Pfft...let me go back to bed! Actually, I’m quite thirsty... 2.15pm - Mummy keeps disturbing me with all her moving around. She’s with some other hamster Mummies as well, and even a hamster Daddy or two! There’s something called ‘judging’ going on. 2.30pm - Oh, what’s happening!? There’s a big strange hand in my cage. It smells friendly though and Mummy says I mustn’t ever bite hands. Now it’s picking me up! Now it’s turning me upside down... again! The good thing is that it’s being gentle, and now it’s just letting me run on its shoulder. Finally, I get to go 4

Issue 01 January 2013 back to bed, but they’ve disturbed my nest! Mummy says it’s because they look for food, safe nesting material, a source of water and something to play with/chew on. The judges told some silly girls off for giving their hamsters cotton wool bedding. Anyway...zzzzzzz.

3.00pm - Mummy is holding me to her face and kissing me. She says she is ‘proud’ of me, because I came 4th out of all 15 hamsters! I even got a nice rosette, but when she showed it to me I tried to chew it and she took it away! 3.15pm - The ground is moving again! 3.30pm - Finally I’m back in my nice cage. It’s been a very tiring day, and I must get some beauty sleep, so maybe next time I can come 1st! Now we’ve heard from Minnie, let’s just go over a few things. These are the basics of pet class: 1. Any hamster can enter, as long as it is relatively healthy and tame. 2. They are judged against other animals of the same type and gender. 3. The hamsters are judged on tameness, condition, and whether they have a safe bedding material, food, water (often given in the form of a piece of cucumber) and something to chew on. 4. The judges should be able to wake your hamster up from its nest and handle it without being bitten. 5. You normally have to pay a small entry fee (around £2.) 6. Other animals can sometimes be entered (rabbits, rats, guinea pigs etc.) Look on the National Hamster Council website (www.hamsters.org.uk) for details of shows near to you!

Issue 01 January 2013

When you first get your hamster, they will likely be scared and nervous, as they are in a new home and surroundings. Your hamster will take comfort in eating the same foods as it already knows, until it is well settled into its new home. If you are not able to get the hamster’s previous food mix, or do not know what they were fed on, the best idea is to keep an eye on your hamster and check your hamster’s bottom when handling. This will ensure no upset stomach and diarrhoea because of the food change. With so many food mixes available, it’s no wonder picking the right food can be the hardest part about caring for your hamster! On first glance, many of the hamster mixes can look the same; look at the label however, and they can be completely different. Note - Hamsters always need a supply of fresh water. This can be supplied in a water bottle or a water bowl. Water bottles seem to be the safest and easiest way to do this, as they don’t get tipped over or buried in bedding. Hamsters should never be given anything other than water in their bottles. Never give your hamster fruit juice, tea, coffee, vinegar, squash, or alcohol! Your hamster could become very sick, and some of these liquids can burn the inside of your hamster’s stomach, too! Fresh water is all a hamster needs in its bottle. What to look for in a good hamster mix When in the wild, hamsters will naturally eat a wide variety of different pulses and seeds, as well as live foods, such as insects. Hamsters will typically eat between 10-12g of food in the day. As hamster owners, we should try and replicate this as best as possible. Hamsters are often mistaken for only eating plants and herbs, but they will also love protein-filled meats and insects, such as mealworms and cooked, plain chicken. The staple of your hamsters diet, should of course, be a good quality healthy hamster-specific mix. As mentioned above, there are many to choose from, and getting the right one for your hamster is an important task. When looking at mixes, be sure to avoid anything that is just large pieces of coloured biscuits, or anything coloured too brightly, for that matter. A hamster’s mix should look as natural as possible, whilst maintaining the right nutritional needs for a hamster. A hamster’s mix should only be designed for hamsters. It should not be a mix that is labelled as suited to hamsters and gerbils, or similar. There are many mixes in the UK that are just not suitable for a healthy hamster. These typically include store brand and unbranded mixes that you can find in a lot of local small pet shops. The reason these are not suitable for a healthy hamster is simple - they just do not meet the requirements of the hamster! In smaller local pet shops you can often find loose mix, which you help yourself to and then pay for the amount you require. Though this may seem a good way of buying your hamster food, this type is best avoided, as the mix is out in the open air all day and it could become damp and contaminated. Another important thing you need to consider when buying the right mix for your hamster is the fact that hamsters’ teeth never stop growing. This means that they will need hard food such as nuts and seeds in 6

Issue 01 January 2013 their mix, so that they can wear their teeth down. Hamsters with overgrown teeth can end up not being able to eat all because they are too sore. If your hamster’s teeth seem overgrown, or your hamster is having difficulty eating, it’s time to go to the vet. You should not attempt to clip your hamster’s teeth on your own at home, because you could end up hurting your hamster. What are my Hamster’s Nutritional Needs? There seems to be little or no scientific evidence that suggests hamsters have strict nutritional needs daily. There are, however, figures that float around suggesting the ideal percentages for hamsters. Protein: 17-22% Fibre: 8-10% Fat: 4-6% The above levels are the levels that should try to be met for all species of hamster, but some hamsters have different dietary needs than others, so some mixes may not be suitable for all hamster types. There are several mixes available that are suitable and often recommended for you to give your hamster, depending on the species: 

Supreme Harry Hamster - This mix is perfect for a Syrian or Roborovski hamster, and does not need anything taking out of it for these species. However, if being fed to a diabetes prone hamster, the peas and/or corn will need to be taken out. Extra mealworms are sometimes added to this mix if being fed to dwarf hamsters. The ingredients in this mix may not be easy to eat for small dwarf hamsters. There unfortunately is not a dwarf hamster version of this mix. There is always the option to snap the bigger parts in half in order to make it easier for your hamster to eat.

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RatRations hamster mixes - RatRations.com do a range of hamster mixes that are suitable for feeding to different species of hamster:

Dwarf hamster basic (Protein 19% Fat 5.9% Fibre 7.8%)

This mix is suitable for all types of dwarf hamster, including diabetes prone hybrids and Chinese hamsters. Dwarf hamster basic with flaked peas (19.2% Suitable for Roborovskis, Pure Winter Whites and Fat 6.1% Fibre 8.2%) Pure Campbells. Dwarf hamster basic with flaked peas and Suitable for Roborovskis, Pure Winter Whites and kibble (19.1% Fat 6.3% Fibre 8.9%) Pure Campbells. Dwarf hamster basic, no freshwater shrimps This mix is suitable for all types of dwarf hamster, (Protein 19.3% Fat 6.1% Fibre 8) including diabetes prone hybrids and Chinese hamsters. Syrian (no added fruit, with apple and with This mix is great for Syrian hamsters and pure dwarf banana) (Protein 19% Fat 6% and Fibre 8%) hamsters, but the seeds may be a little too large for dwarf hams. These are not the only mixes on the market for your hamster, however. Below is a table that analyses a range of the different hamster mixes available, so that you can see which mixes are best for your hamster. The sugar column is useful when looking for a mix which is suitable for a diabetes prone hamster. The tick in the sugar column indicates that the mix has pieces that will need to be taken out for a diabetes prone hamster. 7

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Needs for diabetes prone hamsters Take care when buying foods for diabetic prone hamsters (Russian Campbells Dwarf hamsters, Russian Hybrid Dwarf hamsters and Chinese hamsters), as they should not be fed the flaked peas and corn that are found in the majority of commercial hamster mixes. If you have a diabetes prone hamster, or even one with diabetes, it is best to take out the peas and corn in the mix if you are feeding a mix that contains these. It does not take a long time to do and will give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to keep your hamster healthy. The only bad thing about doing this is that you are taking out some of the nutritional value, and you will not know what to put back in to the mix to get it back up (or down) to the hamsterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s required nutritional needs. There are some mixes available in the UK that are specially formulated for diabetes prone hamsters, so they do not have any of the high sugar ingredients in them, like the other mixes. These mixes will still maintain the right nutritional levels for your hamster as the corn and peas are supplemented, and the mixes have been tested for nutritional values. These mixes are available from www.ratrations.com. If your hamster already has diabetes, then they will need to have a controlled and special diet. This means that you must refrain from giving your diabetic hamster any sugar-filled treats, or food such as store bought hamster treats and fruits. To find out if your hamster does have diabetes, simply go to the local pharmacy and buy some urine test strips. The hamsterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s urine should be checked every couple of months so that you can keep the condition under control.

Issue 01 January 2013 Needs for young and pregnant hamsters If you have a pregnant or nursing hamster, you will need to ensure that you’re providing her with a high protein diet. In order to meet the hamster’s needs, you can provide them with high protein food such as the following.  Boiled egg  Plain cooked chicken  Mealworms  Baby food (free from onion, garlic, citrus fruits)  Milky porridge  Sunflower seeds  Millet sprays (these also help to keep the hamster occupied as they will have something to do!) Whilst your hamster is either pregnant or nursing, you will notice that she requires a lot more food than her normal intake. Do not worry if your hamster seems to be eating more than usual - she is just trying to get all of her nutrients for herself and her pups! When it comes to the pups, they are generally well cared for by their mothers and usually need little human intervention. However, you can provide a few foods to help the pups in growing to be strong and healthy hamsters. Here are a few foods that your hamster pups will greatly appreciate:    

Millet seeds Milky porridge Baby foods (no onion, garlic or citrus fruits) Scrambled or boiled eggs

Sometimes, a mother may reject one of its young. In this case, you will need to make sure that you provide the hamster with food. An ideal solution to feed baby hamsters is half evaporated milk and half water. The milky solution should be warmed up (not too hot so that it will burn your hamster’s mouth) to replicate the mother’s milk. This should be fed to the hamster by a syringe. For Syrian hamsters: 1ml 12 times a day, until the hamster is 2 weeks old. Once they are 2 weeks old they can be fed 2ml 8 times a day. For dwarf hamsters: 2 drops every half an hour, all day, until the hamster is 2 weeks old. Once they are two weeks old, feed ½-1ml every hour. Please make sure that you do also provide your baby hamsters with a suitable mix in their cage as they reach around 2-3 weeks. They should start eating from their bowls at this age. Note - These are guidelines only and every pup will be different in its requirements.

Issue 01 January 2013 Needs for older and sick hamsters As hamsters become older, or if they get sick, they can find it difficult to eat their normal mix. In the case of this happening, you will need to give your hamster a special diet. Their regular hamster mix can still be fed, but if your mix contains harder items, such as shelled peanuts, it may be best for you to un-shell these so that your hamster does not struggle eating them and hurt themselves. Some people like to mash their hamster’s food up when they are elderly and sick. Adding some warm water to your hamster’s mix can do this, and then letting it go slightly softer. This way it will be easier for your hamster to eat. Elderly or sick hamsters can also greatly benefit from being fed high protein foods such as mealworms, millet and sunflower seeds, milk porridge and baby foods. These are easy for the hamster to eat and so make a great choice. The hamster’s main mix should still be available to the ham, though removing any big bits or soaking the food may be necessary to avoid your hamster hurting itself whilst trying to eat. Treats for hamsters Aside from their staple mix, hamsters can enjoy a wide variety of treats. Many treats sold in pet shops are high in sugar, which is not good or natural for hamsters. There are many treats that you can feed your hamsters that are a lot healthier for them:           

Mealworms (canned, dried or live- however, live ones need their heads crushing as they have powerful jaws which can bite at hamster’s cheek pouches) Crickets Millet sprays and loose seeds Sunflower seeds (though these are high in fat so should be fed sparingly) Small pieces of fresh fruit and veg (such as apple, carrot, strawberry, blueberry) Tiny amounts of unflavoured, low sugar/fat, plain yoghurt. Porridge oats (though any with sharp edges will need to be removed) or small amounts of porridge Cooked, plain chicken Cooked egg Cooked potato Small pieces of plain wholemeal digestive biscuits

Storing your hamster’s food and treats Your hamster’s food should be stored in an airtight container, such as a plastic lunchbox or cereal container. The food should not be kept in the original packaging unless it can be re-sealed. If your hamster food looks to be mouldy or damp, you should throw it away immediately. This can make your hamster very sick. Another thing to look out for is insects hatching in your hamster’s mix. You can stop this from happening by freezing your hamster’s mix before you feed it. If your mix already has creepy crawlies in it, you can either try and remove all of them by hand and then freeze the mix before feeding, or you can throw the mix away and get some new. Additional hamster nutrition facts and tips:  When introducing new foods to your hamster, some suggest doing it slowly and mixing the hamster’s new food in with its current mix until you are only feeding it on the new mix. This can help the hamster become used to the new mix and will ensure no upset stomachs. Some hamster owners see that their hamster only eats the new mix, so in this case, you can switch to the new food. 10

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Issue 01 January 2013 If your hamster is picking at the favourite bits in their mix (usually sunflower seeds or peanuts) then you must not give them any more food until you can see that they have eaten all that you have given them. This may seem unfair but if the hamster is not eating the full mix then they are not getting all of the nutrients that they need in their diet.

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Check your hamster’s cage for where they store their excess foods. Hamsters naturally fill their pouches full of food, even when they are not hungry. When the hamster finds somewhere where it thinks is safe, they will empty their pouches. This safe place will be where the hamster stores any food that it does not eat. Check this area whenever you clean the hamster’s cage out. A large store is often the sign that you are feeding your hamster too much. Not all hamsters have a store though, and some store their food right in their nests where it may be too hard to access.

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Any fresh foods that are given to your hamster must be taken out of their cage after a few hours if it has not been eaten. Fresh food goes off quickly and if your hamster eats a mouldy piece, it could get very sick.

 Fresh foods should be introduced slowly, and they should not be given too often. Small pieces are the way to go, as too much fruit or vegetables can cause your hamster to have diarrhoea. 

Never feed your hamsters any chocolate that is not specially-made for hamsters. This can make your hamster seriously ill as it has a chemical in that is deadly to hamsters. The chocolate also has a lower melting point, which means it can get stuck in their pouches, causing pouches to become sore and impacted.

Issue 01 January 2013

Bar chewing. At best it’s a minor irritation, at worst something resulting in costly vet visits and even the death of a fluffy friend. This article will tell you all you need to know about it, including those much needed tips on stopping it! The main thing you need to know about bar chewing is that hamsters don’t do it without reason. A completely contented hamster would not do it, but unfortunately, getting your hamster to a point where it is completely contented all of the time is impossible. Use the checklist below to try and work out why your hamster chews bars and, hopefully, how you can help alleviate the problem: 1. Does your hamster’s cage meet or exceed 75cm by 40cm? Not having enough space leads to boredom and frustration, and this leads to bar chewing. 2. Does your hamster have constant access to a wheel that is appropriate for its size? Hamsters need to get plenty of exercise; having a wheel allows them to get this as and when they choose. If they don’t have a wheel, they can get bored and frustrated, which leads to bar chewing. If they don’t use their wheel, it is probably too small. Try upgrading to a wheel with a diameter of 8 inches or more. 3. Does your hamster have other things to chew? This is a pretty obvious one. If your hamster has nothing else suitable for it to chew, it will chew the bars. Sticks of fruit wood work well, but other wooden chews are available in all pet shops. Alternatively, dog biscuits are also suitable for hamsters to chew! 4. Does your hamster only chew bars when you are near the cage? If so, this is most likely attention seeking. Wait until the hamster has ceased bar chewing before you remove it from the cage or give it a treat - that way you are not reinforcing the negative behaviour. This kind of bar chewing is rarely serious. 5. Do none of the above criteria seem to be the problem? Sometimes hamsters just get into the habit of bar chewing as an obsessive behaviour. This often begins when they are young, especially if their habitat is unsuitable, and it soon becomes an obsessive behaviour. So, if your hamster is in a massive cage with a big wheel and lots to chew, and still bar chews all the time, then it is probably in the hamster’s best interests if you move it to a tank-style cage or aquarium. There are a few short term solutions. For very occasional bar chewers, or attention seekers, distraction is the best technique. Try wrapping a toilet roll tube in plain white paper, like a cracker, and place a few treats inside for your hamster to gnaw its way into! Hopefully this article has helped you understand why your hamster chews bars, and go some way towards alleviating it.

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Hello, my fellow hamsters! When my mum (aka Slave) told me there was a new hamster magazine being created, I thought it was high time I made my voice heard in the hamster community! I’ve got a lot of good things to say – all very important, you know. So I’m going to be taking time out of my busy schedule to write a monthly blog just for you. I shall tell you all the latest gossip in the hammy world (I like to stay in-the-know), review products (I only have the best, my darlings), let you know about upcoming events that I’m very excited about (especially ones I have to make an appearance in), and to tell you about my exciting and ultra-pampered life I lead. So, this months’ topic in question... What sort of house should a Syrian hamster be living in? The RSPCA sets out guidelines for the minimum space required for a hamster like myself. Well mum never goes along with those frankly sub-standard requirements. She goes well beyond them and she bought me my very own penthouse. I live in an opulent palace of splendour, friends. I live in a Mamble 100 cage. It’s 100x54x64cm and it is just heaven. It comes with a shelf and tubes and basic accessories, but mum had much better accessories to add to my house. She also added 2 extra shelves, hammocks, a large sand bath for my nightly wash, and a variety of toys which she changes several times a week (I’m an intelligent girl and I get bored very easily, you know).

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If this sort of home sounds appealing to you, my fellow hams, you can find this cage on various websites. The cheapest seems to be littlepetwarehouse. Go and see for yourself! Surely all the hamster slaves reading this should take a look at this fabulous home? I feel it is very important for us Syrians to have plenty of space - we are an active breed. This cage is actually a rat cage, but special show hamsters like myself are much bigger than normal, and require a lot more space for exploring and climbing. Shelves are fun and give us more space for toys (I love toys). Also you can very easily fit Trixie wheels in this cage – mine is the 11” wheel and I can exercise comfortably in this for my nightly run and not bend my back. No hamster should have to run on a cramped wheel. It’s not good for our health, you know! Listen up, slaves! Please make sure you give your Syrians the right size wheel in their cage, and give them plenty of toys to play with – exploring ones, chewing ones, destroying ones. We like to keep busy. If we have space and toys and things to do we will be happier and healthier =) xx

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Got a hamster question you just can't get the answer to? Is everybody saying different things? Our hamster expert gives advice based on experience of what has really worked for people, so you know you are getting the right information. Q1. I think my hamsters teeth are too long! What do I do? A. A hamster with overgrown teeth can have difficulty eating, so it is important to take action straight away. A vet will be the best person to see, as they know how to clip a hamsters teeth safely. See an exotics or small animal specialist if you can, and ask if they will show you how to do it. In the future, your hamster should be provided with wooden chew toys, and the occasional dog biscuit to keep his teeth in check. Q2. Whenever I feed my hamster, he always takes his food straight to his tubes and stores it there. Is this abnormal behaviour? A. It is normal behaviour for a hamster to store their his food. However, keeping his food in his tubes is not a good idea, as tubes have poor ventilation which makes condensation, and can make his food go mouldy. You should remove your hamsters tubes until he gets in the habit of storing his food somewhere else. Always keep an eye on fresh food especially, as this can go off very quickly, and will make your hamster sick. Q3. I have read that hamsters should not be fed lettuce. Why is this? A. Iceberg lettuce has very little nutritional value, and is very watery, so can cause diarrhoea in hamsters. You can still feed lettuce, but in very tiny quantities and the darker the leaf the better. Instead of lettuce, it is recommended you feed your hamster something with more nutritional value. Q4. Whenever my hamster wakes up, one of his eyes is always stuck together. Should I be worried? A. Stick eyes can be a common problem in hamsters. Bathe your hamsters affected eye in warm water with a cotton bud, very gently to help him open his eye up. If the eye has discharge or doesn't open up with bathing or over the period of a few hours, it is recommended that you get in contact with your vet or make an appointment, as there could be an infection. Q5. I think my Hamster is a little dirty or could do with some more exercise. Is it alright to give them a bath or let them swim? A. The short answer is “No!” Even when properly supervised in shallow water, drowning and developing a cold, the flu or pneumonia are serious risks for Hamsters. Hamsters have a natural oil in their fur to maintain its condition – that’s why they spend a lot of time grooming! If you really think you Hamster needs a bath, buy Chinchilla Sand (not dust) from any reputable pet store, and keep it in a small container – watching them bathe in it is a great source of entertainment! If you’re worried about your Hamster’s exercise levels, buy them a running ball and let them run around for 20-30 minutes. You can do this a few times a day as long as they have breaks!

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Jenny Sews is a wonderful little company, which, among other things, produces wonderful snuggle pouches for hamsters! In this article, we talk to Jenny about Jenny Sews, and Linford reviews one of her snuggle pouches! When asked how Jenny Sews came to be, Jenny replied: “When my daughter started nursery in September 2011, I was looking to get back to work but after months of fruitless job hunting, I decided to take the plunge and become self employed. I really wanted to do something creative, and it was just a matter of deciding what. I toyed with the idea of cupcakes, but there seemed to be lots of companies around already, and I wanted to do something a bit different. I’ve been making Sock Creatures since my daughter was tiny, and I began making them for my friends as birthday gifts, then holding Sock Monkey making evenings, but I didn’t think I could make a profit from them. I then attended a craft fair with a whole mix of sewn goods and the monkeys flew out! Jenny Sews was born! My current stock includes monkeys, rabbits, horses, cats, dogs, fish, owls, snakes, sockosaurs and even sock teeth (for holding milk teeth for the tooth fairy). I’ve been known to make sock aliens and even a German Shepherd dog! I also make Sock Monkey kits, for those crafty folks out there who’d like to have a go at making their own, and have now branched out into non sock related items. When I found Hamster Central, I was actually looking for Hedgehog enclosures! I was soon completely hooked though. I seriously upgraded my Syrian Hamster Mary's cage, and got another rescue hamster, Princess Cutie Pie! I liked to find any excuse to craft, so I thought I'd try and make some thing for these ladies, and have had mixed results... I made hammocks, round beds and snuggle sacks, and Mary was thoroughly unimpressed with them all. Princes however immediately LOVED her snuggle sack and has started using her hammock too, although mainly as a toilet… The Snuggle Sacks have been so much fun to make that I've added them to my regular stock and can make them in any colour and any size!” It was time to test her Snuggle Sacks out on one of the team’s hamsters, and Linford’s Syrian hamster, Charlie was a willing volunteer! Here’s what Linford had to say about it, “The snuggle sack seems well made, has a pretty pattern, and is a good size. It has some wire on the inside, to hold the end open, making it very inviting to hammies! My hamster, Charlie, was wary at first, and needed a little encouragement to go inside.

Issue 01 January 2013

She sniffed around inside, and then hastily dragged it back to her nest. Sometimes she sleeps on top of it, sometimes she sleeps inside it. She also likes to keep her favourite treats inside it, to eat in between naps. Charlie is a fairly large Syrian Hamster, and she does fit, so it is not too small. I think most Syrians would fit, and enjoy keeping food inside it, as well as snoozing in it. I think it is perhaps not the best choice for dwarfs that live in pairs as it has one opening, meaning one ham could get territorial about it. Also, it may not be good for chewers, as they could accidentally ingest some. However, if you know your hamster enjoys soft things to snuggle with, it is definitely worth buying one. There are several ways a ham could use it, not just sleeping inside it. Jenny also does hammocks and round beds, which I think would also be readily accepted by hams. I think that Syrians that enjoy hammocks could really enjoy a snuggle sack, and vice versa.” So, you probably want to know where you can order one? They can be found at Jenny’s Etsy shop over at: http://www.etsy.com/shop/myjennysews Jenny also has a website, www.jennysews.co.uk and can be found a lot of the time on her facebook page,www.facebook.com/JennySews”

Issue 01 January 2013

The day started off like any other Friday. It was a cold, sunny October day, and I was on my way to my job as a dog walker. The only difference at the time was that I was walking to my destination because my fiancĂŠ was going to work early and needed the car, so I needed to add an extra two hours to my plans. I had no idea that this was the least of the exceptions that day would create. When I arrived at my apartment building nearly four hours later I noticed that in the main entryway before the locked lobby, there was a box with my name on it. There was no postage or return address, so it had been hand delivered, which immediately made me both concerned and curious. When I picked up the box, I heard something inside moving and I panicked. I thought it was some sick prank, or simply a mistake, but I brought whatever it was inside regardless. I am so glad that I did. When I peered inside, I saw a ball of cream and white fur not much bigger than a golf ball, shivering all over. I froze, completely stunned, and then my mind went in countless different directions. How could someone just leave a hamster in a breezeway when the temperatures were in the negatives? Who would do this? How did they know where I lived? The sheer creepiness of the last question needed to be ignored because regardless of my upset, and loss for words, there was a baby hamster that suddenly needed me. 18

Issue 01 January 2013 I had never felt a living animal as cold as she was, so I did all I knew how, and fetched a bunch of toilet paper and my heating pad to place under the box she was in. I decided I should give her some space and let her warm up, while I wracked my brain for solutions. I could not possibly keep her. I had no space. But she had been left at my door… No. I decided that even though I loved her already, it simply was not practical to keep her. Oh, how I longed to though. Over the next hour I called shelters, the SPCA and pet stores that I trusted, and no one wanted a hamster, even one as cute as this one (from the ball of fur I had seen). It was around this point when I heard her stirring for the first time, which made me hopeful that she’d pull through. I quickly got her some food and water and took it to the box, and sure enough she was looking for something to eat!

Hour One: She was unquestionably one of the most amazing things I had ever seen in my life. Since I knew that she was okay for the time being, I dug out my spare aquarium that I had been trying to sell and filled it with shredded bathroom tissue, and once I put her and her food and water in, she somehow looked tinier. I was too afraid to put a sleep house in at that point because I didn’t want her to just go in there and pass away without me seeing her (I was the true definition of paranoia that entire first twenty-four hours). Once I was content with that set up, I did what any twenty-one year-old living away from home at school would do – I called my parents. 19

Issue 01 January 2013 My Dad was very little help, as he laughed and said “And add one more to the zoo,” but my mom was slightly more helpful. She told me to make sure she lasted the weekend before re-homing her, and to follow any help I could get from people with rescue experience on the forum. I had rescued all of my previous pets, but I had always gone and got them, not the other way around. By the time my fiancé came home I was a ball of every emotion I’d ever experienced, and he was as confused as I was. The rest of her first night remains a bit of a blur, as I stayed up with her, making sure she never got too cold, or that she didn’t fall into her water bowl (or even that wild gnomes didn’t sneak in and take her). As I said, by the end of the day I was imagining just about anything. She was of course, a champion, and made it through the night without passing away or getting kidnapped. She was very curious, even in her timid state, and greeted me every time I went near her tank.

Day Two I decided that even though I was not keeping her, she needed a temporary name, and that came very easily. I settled on Mowgli, inspired by the story of the Jungle Book, where a little orphan was found abandoned in a basket, so I thought the rest would explain itself. As the weekend progressed I kept finding myself at a loss. None of my friends had any idea who could have found out my address, and no shelters or shops seemed to want her.

Issue 01 January 2013 This left me rather stressed because only the morning she arrived had I been planning on justifications for getting another Syrian - but it was for a little one at a shop, not this one. And besides, I didn’t even like cream banded hamsters… Or I hadn’t until Mowgli, that is. After a great deal of fretting, and writing countless pro/con lists, my other half simply suggested, “Why can’t we keep her? She is basically perfect, and she picked you, in a messed up way.” And that was that. She was mine, I was hers. I had been kidding myself to think that I was going to be capable of giving her up after even that first night. As soon as we could we set out to get her a bigger tank, a nice 40 gallon, and got her all of her own things, so she would never go without ever again.

She took more than two months to hand tame, but given the circumstances, I was overjoyed the first time she let me hold her, and I cried the day she fell asleep on my chest. My other half and I joke now that she is the perfect hamster for photos, as she poses as soon as you take out the camera. She also stayed very small, as she never got any larger than a typical six week old baby. The reasons for this are unclear, but that is why she still prefers a smaller wheel, because when we gave her an 8 inch Wodent Wheel, she refused to touch it. We just call her the baby of the bunch and treasure her as she is. 21

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Mowgli has come so far in the past few months, and while we never found out who did this to her or why, I will always be grateful to them. While their methods were cruel and thoughtless, at least they tried to reach out, and without them, I would never have met one of the single greatest joys in my life. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to think she was supposed to be with me, and just took the roundabout way of getting here.

She showed up on time, but was just a little too short to hit the doorbell.

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This month in The Hamster Diaries, we’re visiting 4-month-old Timi and his owner Laura!

“Good morning, I am Detective Timotheus Jacomus! What’s that?.. Yes, you may call me Timi *Sigh*” How nice of you to pop by to see me. I would offer you a nibble of something but I’m afraid I’ve stored it all away you see. I am a Hamster after all. But I am also a Detective Hamster! So far my investigation is going well. Humans are odd creatures. Very little fur, small ears and eyes and noses, it’s a wonder they can forage at all! Especially with that, walking around two paws business, it looks terribly tiring. But the human I now call mine, Laura, is quite interesting, I have a feeling my investigation will go far!

Today Laura slept for a very long time. Most unusual behaviour must be noted. I was very quiet in order to observe her, and when she did wake up I greeted her warmly! Greeting her of course, is part of my investigation. It’s not that I like her or anything! When Laura came to say good morning, she told me today was going to be a good day! As I wondered what she meant, she helped me clamber up on to her shoulder and I could see why!

Issue 01 January 2013 Laura wears things called hoods, and they are very snugly and warm. Ample nesting material. I nestled into her hood until it grew too warm, then popped my nose out. She greeted me again and told me that today was a good day, because she had a surprise for me! What in the fluff could this surprise be? I do hope it isn’t being moved again. My investigation would suffer if I am moved again! Laura and I played for a little while; I scurried up and down her sleeve, and she fed me a sunflower seed when I peered out at her call! Eventually Laura gave me a kiss and returned me home, telling me that she needed to go collect the surprise. A surprise that needs to be collected?! Extensive notes are being made. In my experience, surprises are delivered! Excited, I climbed my cage and watched her get ready, bidding her farewell in true detective style! I think I may find it difficult to sit still waiting… I sat for a little while waiting for her to return, but she was gone for time and it gets cold in her box, so I pulled out the seed she had given me from my pouch, nibbled it, and crawled back into my nest. Ah, so snugly warm… When I woke up, Laura had already returned! She must have been very quiet when she returned because I didn’t hear her. I pitterpattered to the corner and sat there, watching to see what she was up to – one can never do too much investigating. I must have been quiet too because she took a while to notice me! She took so long in fact I decided to get some dinner while I was there. I do love mealworms.

After a while, Laura sat in front of my home and opened the door, peering in at me. I was happy to see her back so I scurried out onto her knee. She greeted me with a sunflower seed. Yay, another! I climbed up her arm and nestled into her hood again. Important note, I really need to get myself one of these hoods for my nest… I was there for only a few minutes when I heard her say my surprise was

Issue 01 January 2013 ready! I’d almost forgotten. I sat on her shoulder until she was ready to scoop me back into my home. At first I wondered what had changed at first, but then she showed me – a new toy! It smelled unsqueakably good, but the string holding it altogether was hindering my progress! So I chewed and chewed, nibbled and munched and eventually, after several minutes of painstaking investigating and dismantling…

I had freed the Walnut! Take that string! Laura seemed terribly surprised by my genius. All my investigating has made me clever! Laura cheered with me, and we played tug of war with my prize! But I won of course! None can outsmart the mighty Detective Timotheus Jacomus! I had trouble deciding where to put my prized walnut, and after all that excitement I began to feel tired. I returned the walnut to Laura - on the condition that she would play tug of war with me again tomorrow – and scampered back into my nest. Ah, so snugly warm… As I begin to doze off I wonder, what other surprises my investigation might have in store for me…

Goodnight!

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Living in Canada, I found that there were not a lot of great options for hamster cages readily available. I loved how some people were able to make amazing bin cages, but they just never seemed my style (I also worried that I would be able to too easily justify getting more and more hamsters because of stacking capabilities). That is when I stumbled across the idea of aquarium style homes. At first, it was for practical reasons as the house I was living in at school was drafty, but it is now my habitat of choice. This article is designed to help anyone find an aquarium to suit their petsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs, as well as tips to make it into something people can enjoy looking at. The first thing someone looking for a tank should do is not go about it the same way I started. Since bringing home our Syrian, Boo, in July of 2012, she has had five different tanks. This article should cut out all of the middlemen so only one shopping trip is needed. The next thing to keep in mind is size. If the hamster moving in is a Syrian, the minimum your hamster is going to be happy in is a 30 gallon (36 inches long x 12 inches deep x 16 inches tall), and from my experiences I would strongly suggest a 40 breeder (36 inches long x 18 inches deep x 16 inches tall). These two tanks are wonderful for being able to provide an abundance of running space and can house an 11 inch Wodent Wheel, which is important for a lot of Syrians. For dwarves, I would strongly recommend a 30 gallon, but some prefer a 20 gallon long (30 inches long x 12 inches deep x 12 inches tall), and this is something you as a hamster owner will need to judge. Elderly or poorly hamsters may feel insecure with too much space, but always put their needs above how much space you would like your hamster to take up. Also remember for many hamsters, the bigger the better so if you would like to get something even larger, always feel free to do so!

Issue 01 January 2013 Once you have decided which size tank you would like your hamster to live in, the task for finding one can become tricky. My biggest piece of advice is to buy used tanks, as they are a fraction of the price, which can leave more room in your budget for accessories for the inside. If buying a new tank is not an issue though, then you have the benefit of knowing your hamster is the first to occupy it and it will be in perfect shape! Once you have your tank, consider how heavy it is when you are finding a place for it. If you have a 55 gallon like I do, it is more than likely you will not be able to move it yourself to clean, so my best suggestion is to pick a place that you can clean it without moving it. The next important consideration for a tank is a lid. Some hamsters (like my dwarf), do not use one as they do not show any interest in climbing. For most hamsters though… That is not the case. Many hamsters are curious, and enjoy checking things out, so if the lid on their tank is not secure, your hamster will be gone. I learned this the hard way with my first ever Syrian, Sheldon. He got so good that he used to be able to push the lid up even with multiple textbooks weighing it down. My moral for that story is, please get a locking lid. Many hamsters are curious, and enjoy checking things out, so if the lid on their tank is not secure, your hamster will be gone. I learned this the hard way with my first ever Syrian, Sheldon. He got so good that he used to be able to push the lid up even with multiple textbooks weighing it down. My moral for that story is, please get a locking lid. Once you have these details down, the real fun can begin! Decorating and preparing the tank! Firstly, securing the water bottle, which is a task most people don’t think of until nearly everything else is done. I prefer to sort that out first, and there is a simple method. You simply account for how high you would like it to be, and you can use adhesive Velcro (easily picked up at a dollar store) on both the tank and bottle, and you’re done! The next step is substrate, and it’s always important to be generous with this, as many hamsters LOVE digging. 27

Issue 01 January 2013 I have used a variety of beddings, Aspen, to Care Fresh, to Boxo, and as long as you buy safe products, the selection is based on personal and hamster choice. The fun with tanks comes out after all the basics are covered. You have the opportunity to turn your hamster’s space into an entire world presented in your living room. I always loved the look of natural cages, and I found tanks were the perfect setting for this, and I kept that in mind as I searched for accessories. I personally head straight to the reptile isle at pet stores, especially for Syrians, as the accessories are often made larger, with bigger holes and entry ways unlike “hamster products,” which are often barely large enough for a dwarf.

There are products such as fake wood tunnels, half log bridges, caves, drift wood and cork rounds, all of which I would recommend as they add variety, as well as that natural outdoors look which many people enjoy. I adore the use of driftwood as it is great for aesthetic reasons, but it also keeps nails at a nice length, which should never be understated. It can come in many shapes and forms, giving unique edges to your tank. Certain reptile hides make great sleep houses as well as jungle gyms for hamsters, as they come in so many varieties and sizes, you can find something appropriate for essentially every hamster. Rope ladders are also something you can attach to your tanks walls or lid, depending on how good a climber your hamster is. In the same light, hammocks also add flare to your tank’s canopy.

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Many people often provide different types of substrate in tanks, including safe types of sand or dirt, as well as rocks, certain plants, and even lighting. Once you have set up your aquarium, you can take full advantage of the best feature of having a tank: full access. With a tank, you can see your hamster from any angle, at any vantage point. They also tend to not look as big as they are in a room, as you can see right through them, which is a major plus if you have six tanks in a bachelor apartment like I do. Simply put, aquariums make amazing homes for hamsters for many simple and understated reasons. They provide great access, they look really cool once theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re decorated and they have amazing possibilities to maximize floor space for your little friend. Tanks are a win-win, which is the best you can hope for in the world of pets.

Issue 01 January 2013

Wet Tail is gastro-intestinal disease, which is under-researched, and under-estimated! It can be found primarily in the Syrian hamster - other small rodents such as rats and mice can also contract it but Dwarf hamsters very seldom develop it. It is predominantly seen in younger hamsters from pet shops and is largely thought to be triggered by stress. Contributing factors to the development of wet tail in the hamster can be; weaning, environmental changes, malnutrition, unsanitary cages, exposure to infected hamsters and overcrowding. The precise cause of wet tail is unknown but bacteria is thought to be involved because Wet Tail can be transferred to other hamsters who ingest the infected urine or and faeces of affected hamsters. If a hamster is exhibiting any signs of wet tail, it should be taken to a veterinary surgery as soon as possible to increase the chances of recovering. In acute cases of wet tail, the hamster can suffer severe pain as sections of the bowel collapse and slide into one another, the other organs can become inflamed, and obstructions and impactions in their digestive system, which can cause the hamster to pass away. Spotting the Symptoms Although the symptoms can vary, the signs of illness in acute Wet Tail include; Lethargy - A hamster suffering from wet tail may refuse to come out of its bed and sleep much more than usual. Hamsters are crepuscular, so they should be awake in the evening/night and around dawn. Matted hair coat – When suffering from Wet Tail, a hamster will often refuse to groom, so their coat condition can deteriorate. The dehydration and loss of nutrients from diarrhoea can also aid this. Hunched posture - A hamster normally exhibits the hunching position because they are unwell and in pain. Anorexia - A hamster with wet tail usually refuses to eat anything, due to not having the energy to eat and not feeling well enough to. Irritability/ behavioural change - The hamster will be more irritable than usual; a sudden behavioural change is highly indicative that the hamster is unwell. Watery diarrhoea/a wet anal area – This is the most obvious sign. Diarrhoea and a damp and dirty rear are the give away symptoms. This is known as the ‘wet tail area’ as the diarrhoea leaves welts in the skin, making their rears very inflamed and sore. Emaciation – Hamsters can suffer loss of appetite during wet tail, and may lose a significant amount of weight very quickly and become noticeably thinner. Dehydration - Dehydration is the primary killer in wet tail infections. Hamsters do not have the strength to obtain water, so they consequently lose fluids and can pass away of dehydration if not administered fluids.

Issue 01 January 2013 Treatment A hamster suffering from wet tail will usually be prescribed Baytril by a Vet. However, Baytril is prescribed for a wide variety of things, so it’s a good idea to be prepared to also treat your Hamster at home. Ensure your hamster can eat and drink by making their cage as simple as possible; remove any shelves, wheels and toys, make sure there is plenty of bedding and place both a bowl of food and their water bottle or a bowl of water close to their nesting area. As your hamster may find it difficult to eat their usual food, you may need to feed them with a syringe. Buy the smooth baby food that does not contain garlic, onion or citrus. (E.g. Creamed Porridge) Foods with chicken in are also good they are a good source of protein. The best way to give your hamster Baytril is to mix the dose with the baby food in a syringe and feed it to you hamster. You should also try to give your hamster water in the same way on an hourly basis, if not more frequently to keep your hamster from becoming dehydrated. If you vet does not give you something for this, a product called Pedialyte can be purchased and given to your hamster via syringe. While infected with, cleaning your hamster’s rear with warm water and a small amount of cotton wool is a good way to prevent the area from becoming sore and infected. But you must be sure to dry them thoroughly afterwards. Try to limit cleaning to once or twice a day to minimise stress. You should also place your hamster’s cage in a dark room that has a constant warm temperature, as ill hHamsters cannot regulate their own body temperature. If you have more than one hamster, you should quarantine the ill hamster immediately; It shouldn't be in the same room as a healthy hamster. Wet tail is very easily passed on to other hamsters, so practising good hygiene will ensure you don’t end up with two sick hamsters. Wash your hands and change your clothes – perhaps have a short to put over your clothes in the ill-hamster’s room. Don’t wash or mix the cages, toys, water bottles or any accessories that the infected hamster used, with those of your healthy hamster(s). Prevention of Wet Tail Wet tail is best prevented through selective breeding of hamsters that have no history of the disease, so a hamster purchased from a reputable breeder will not be as susceptible to hamsters of the pet shop origin. In addition, older hamsters are far less likely to develop wet tail. Avoiding stress for hamsters is also key.

Diary of care; Maple

Syringe feeding Baytril mixed with Porridge

8th April 2012 - I check Maple n the evening and notice that she has diarrhoea, her food is uneaten, and it seems that she hasn’t drunk from her bottle. I look on the internet and ask the advice of experienced hamster owners and I find that the symptoms are that of wet tail. Going by the information I found, I ring the out-of-hours PDSA. The vet that I saw said that hamsters with wet tail generally do not do well on treatment - the prognosis really wasn’t good. He offered an antibiotic injection, but said there was really not much hope. I insisted upon the injection and he said, “‘Come back Tuesday, if she hasn’t passed away.” 31

Issue 01 January 2013 I knew that there must have been more that could be done. So when I returned home, I read all the articles I could find about the prognosis of wet tail, and consulted people I know who had knowledge in that area. I make Maple’s cage as simple as possible (one levelled) with no enrichment objects in it. I leave just her bed, a bowl of water and a bowl of food, both close to the bed; I also kept her water bottle on the side of the cage. The cage is then placed in a dark room, with all the windows shut, and the heating on 22 degrees, because I found out that ill hamsters can’t regulate their own body temperature. Because Maple is not taking water or food herself, I decide that I must give her water. I did not have a syringe, so I used a carton-sized straw to suck up some water and place it into her mouth. I had a friend come over to assist me with this by holding Maple, as I found it increasingly hard to do alone. I also read that the hamster’s rear end requires cleaning once a day, as hamsters fail to groom themselves when sick. Using a cotton pad soaked in warm water I clean her rear, and dry her using a cotton towel, with the assistance of the friend. As said earlier, when hamsters are suffering from diarrhoea they won’t drink, so I need to give Maple water frequently. So my friend and I give her water every 90 minutes from 9pm. She is not feeding herself, but I prioritise hydrating her, as dehydration is the aspect that causes most to pass away. I made Maple soggy muesli with Heinz Smudgy Chicken Dinner (checked for no onion and garlic), and also soggy cornflakes with Heinz Creamed Porridge. Maple seems to have a lot of interest in these mixes and nibbles on them then she’s woken up - every 90 minutes. My sister comes to collect my other Syrian hamster, Citrus, in order to separate them, as I do not wish for her to contract wet tail also.

9th April 2012 I observe that Maple is remaining in a good condition. She remains inquisitive and is able to run around her cage. I decide to begin attending to her every 3 hours from 1pm, as I want to minimise the stress to her and let her rest more. Occasionally I mix the water with creamy baby porridge; this is because I want to keep her strength up as well as hydrating her.

10 April 2012 I decide that I will not return to the PDSA, and instead visit Companion Care Vets. The Vet there observes her to be very lively and says that, as she is so lively after being ill, she has a good chance of recovering. He gives her an antibiotic injection, prescribes more Baytril, and also an electrolyte rehydration support solution. He gives me a syringe so that I can give Maple the medicines as Maple still has diarrhoea, and she still does not properly eat or go for water herself. At 6:30pm I begin to administer Baytril; this is 0.04ml in a syringe diluted with water. At 9:30pm I make up her rehydration support. This is a 29g packet and the instructions are to divide it into 5 parts and mix with 100ml of water. So I give her 5g of the solution because the scales wouldn’t give a decimal reading. I mix it with 100ml of water and give her this in a syringe every 3 hours. 32

Issue 01 January 2013 At 10pm I observe Maple get up and take to her muesli (now dry, unmixed), storing a small amount in her cheek pouches and returning to her bed area. 11th April 2012 At 3:30am I start giving Maple 0.2ml dilute creamy baby porridge mixed with 0.1ml rehydration support, because she takes the syringe easier with the mix. At 9:30am I clean her rear end using a cotton pad and lukewarm water. I observe that her bedding is not as soiled as it has been previously. At 5pm Maple is no longer showing any sign of wet tail, but is bleeding. I return to Companion Care, and the vet says that she has a bladder infection because the blood is coming from her vulva and no longer has wet tail. He says that the Baytril will clear this up within 2 days. As Maple no longer has wet-tail I empty her cage, throw out all bedding, and toys that cannot be disinfected. I disinfect the cage and all the toys completely and place new bedding in the cage. I return the cage to its normal layout and cease giving her rehydration support. I give her Baytril again at 9pm. 12th April 2012 Maple has no sign of any blood on her rear. I administer 0.04ml Baytril at 7am and 7pm. In the evening I observe Maple and see that she is no longer lethargic because she is up and about her cage. She is eating a proper amount of her dry hamster food and is drinking from her bottle. She is also no longer sleeping in a hunched position, but more curled up. I weigh her to be 96g, at 8 weeks old. 13th April 2012 I continue to give Baytril to Maple twice a day. There is a considerable amount of food missing from her bowl. I gave her 12g and there is 4g left, meaning she has stored/eaten 8g, which is a healthy amount. She has also taken treats as well. Behaviour & Body - Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleeping mostly, but she is recovering from illness, so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t concern me too much. Her ears are perked up, where they used to be down. I observe that her anal area is completely normal and she is producing normal faeces. She continues to be lively and inquisitive. 14th April 2012 0.04ml Baytril given at 7am and 7pm. Maple seems to be healthy, is eating and drinking a normal amount. Faeces continue to be normal. She is still a bit sleepy. I continued Baytril at 7am and 7pm daily until the 20th April 2012. Taking her weight on the 17th April, shows she is now 107g, indicating that she is eating well and recovering well from her illnesses. 20th April 2012 Maple continues improved condition; on health check she is generally normal but I observe that Maple has 2 bald patches, with wounds around her scruff area. I come to the conclusion that this was where Maple received her antibiotic injections from the vet, so it would need continual monitoring and gently washing in Saline solution to ensure that the wound does not become infected.

Being prepared for Wet Tail is never a bad thing, as thanks to Susieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quick thinking and determination to care for Maple, her little furry friend is now doing well!

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Toilet rolls are great to use for toys; they are safe for hamsters and free, as you would normally throw them away! For some of these toys you may want to use a Pringles tube - especially if you cut both ends off and rip out the foil to make it hamster safe!

Ball You will need: a treat (optional), toilet roll tube, scissors 1. Flatten the toilet roll tube. 2. Cut it into approximately 1cm strips. 3. Put the rings over each other so they cross over. 4. When you have done 3 or 4 overlaps, put the treat inside the ball. Then add more rings and make sure there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t any gaps.

Dumbbell You will need: scissors, toilet roll tube 1. Cut slits into the ends of the toilet roll tube, about 3mm apart and 4cm long. Do this all the way round the top of the tube and on both ends. 2. Once you have done this, fold all the strips over so they stick out.

For bedding and shredding! You will need: toilet roll tube with a little still on the roll 1. Simply place this in your petâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cage so they can shred the paper and use it to make their own beds. You could attach it to their cage using some natural twine or cable ties.

Issue 01 January 2013

Cracker You will need: toilet roll tube, a plain A4 white piece of paper, a treat (optional) 1. Place the toilet roll tube on the long edge of the paper, in the centre. 2. Roll the paper with the tube in the centre. 3. Twist one end of the paper. 4. Place the treat inside and twist the other end.

Playground You will need: toilet roll tube(s), a box that your hamster can fit in, a craft knife/pair of scissors 1. Cut a hole in the side of the box, big enough to fit the tube into. You may find it easier to do a square hole! 2. Simply slot the tube into the hole you have made to make a little playground for your hamster! There are lots of boxes you can get which already have holes in just make sure to use ones which donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have any tape on.

Forage Tunnel You will need: toilet roll tube, bedding (some ripped up toilet paper will do), treat 1. Stuff the tube with half the bedding from one end. 2. Place the treat in the tube and stuff the rest with the other half of the bedding. This will encourage your hamster to search for his food and he can also use the bedding to make his nest. Please do not use fluffy cotton wool bedding, as it can harm your hamster.

Issue 01 January 2013

Tunnels You will need: pencil, toilet roll tubes (at least 2), scissors/craft knife 1. Draw round the end of one tube onto the side of the other tube. This may be fiddly and don’t worry if it isn’t perfect! 2. Cut out the circle. 3. Slot the tube into the hole - if it is too big for the hole, make the hole a little bigger, but only do a little at a time as you don’t want to trim too much off!

Swinging/hanging tube You will need: toilet roll tube, natural/jute twine, scissors, pencil 1. Poke two holes in the side of the tube with the pencil, lengthways, and make sure they line up. 2. Thread the twine through the holes, so it threads through the middle of the tube. 3. Tie the twine to the top or the side of your cage.

Food dispenser You will need: toilet roll tube, pencil, food 1. Poke holes randomly in the tube with the pencil. 2. Fold over the tube at one end so nothing can come out. 3. Put the food/treats inside the tube. 4. Fold over the other end of the tube.

Issue 01 January 2013

Whopper Chew You will need: 6-7 toilet roll tubes, treats (optional) 1. Flatten all but one of the tubes. 2. Roll the flattened tubes up into long, thin rolls. 3. Stuff the tube you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t flatten with the rolled up tubes and treats.

Your turn! Have a go at making some of these toys for your pets - they are very cheap to make! Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget that some of them can be made for other pets too! And why not try combining some of the ideas above to make your very own toy that your hamster will love!

Issue 01 January 2013

Do you want to write an article or have a photograph of your Hamster featured in The Hamster Mag? Find out how here! The Hamster Mag staff are looking for volunteer writers to write articles; these articles can cover Hamsterrelated topic you wish! Check out our current and past issues for ideas! Articles can include (but are not limited) to: How-to and DIY articles, health and physiology articles, diary-style articles, short stories and informative articles that cover topics such as hamster cages, food and accessories. Would you like to write an article for us but aren’t sure about a topic? No problem! Send us an email at bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com with “Ham Mag” as the subject and we’ll give you some suggestions! We are also looking for high-quality images of hamsters to feature in future The Hamster Mag issues – ALL breeds are accepted for submissions; If it’s a Hamster and you have an high quality image of it, we want to hear from you! PLEASE NOTE. All articles and images you send to us MUST be of your creation, or you must obtain the express permission of the original creator to use them. The Hamster Mag is not fond of plagiarism and we don’t want to feature anything that is stolen.

Issue 01 January 2013

All names given herein are a mixture of real names and forum pseudonyms dependent on the Staff Contributors preference. Forum pseudonyms are used for privacy and anonymity. If you wish to know more about the team and meet them, pop over to www.hamstercentral.com, our website; http://thehamstermag.webs.com or just send us an e-mail!

The Staff The Hamster Central Team who are dedicated to working on The Hamster Mag on-going for each issue.

Linford27

Laura AKA Penn

leedsGurl

The head honcho of The Hamster Mag. Chief Editor Linford27 is a South-West-England dweller who is a long established member of Hamster Central. She owns the amazing Syrian Charlie and keeps everyone working on The Hamster Mag in check as well as being lovely to boot!

This North-West-England dweller is the proud owner of Syrian hamster Timi. Laura, known as “Penn” on Hamster Central, is a The Hamster Mag’s editor and writer. She’s currently organising the page layouts and the overall design of the magazine when her sleeping pattern isn’t matching Timi’s!

The owner and photographer of The Hamster Mag's first cover model, Poppy, and designs the layout of the magazines front covers (LeedsGurl, not Poppy). She is a hobbyist breeder of Syrians and has kept hamsters on and off for the past 20 years. She loves to design and create, and is also a signature artist on a couple of popular hamster forums.

The Contributors The contributors who we thank for being AMAZING and being part of The Hamster Mag. We can’t praise or thank them enough! AnimalMadCait, bonkers4hamsters, Char, GhostsInSnow, HorseyMandz, kittendrumstick of Tumblr, Knotty, Jenny (AKA Sparrowarms) , Strawberrysmom, Stephanie Reesor (AKA HammieandMerlin), Susie , and StarlightSerenity. On the cover Name: Poppy Owner: LeedsGurl Species: Syrian Colour: Red eyed cre am banded Date of Birth: 10 t h June 2011 Favourite treat: Yoghurt drops

Children: Became a mum on 6 t h November 2011 (‘The Dexpops’) Adventures: One time she escaped, climbed up to a desk, tried to chomp on a Toblerone, then was later found in a storage box. IMPORTANT NOTICE The Hamster Mag exists for the purpose of providing support and information to anyone caring for or owning a hamster. The Hamster Mag is written by a team of volunteers who share a love of hamsters, many of whom are not vets/medically qualified. You are strongly advised to consult your vet if you are concerned about your hamster's health or wellbeing. All advice in this magazine is widely used by our writers, but makes no guarantees and does not substitute for veterinary expertise. 40