The hamster mag issue 03 by Linford27

Issue 03 September 2013

…to a Hamsterrific third issue! A very good squeak to you all! Welcome to the third issue of The Hamster Mag. In this issue we’re all about happy and healthy Hams! We’ll be giving you tips and tricks to keep your hamster cool during the cruel summer months, and showing you how to give you Ham a health check! Two of our readers are going to give you the ins and outs of managing Diabetes and Pyometra. Boo the hamster is back showing us his world, The Hamster diaries this issue are hosted by the adorable Percy Pocket. And we can’t forget our creative corner or our reviews and recommendations section! And our featured article by Kiah Tulloch, is all about the European Hamster. If you ever wanted to know what Hamsters get up to in their natural environment, this is the issue for you! This issue also marks the start of our Hamster Gallery! Every issue we’ll be accepting images submissions that fit the current issues theme and this issue our gallery is the “Nom nom” gallery! Hamsters nibbling on tasty food! Empty your cheek pouches chaps; we’ve got a big main course!

Issue 03 September 2013

The World According to Boo Our favourite neighbourhood blogger, Boo is back! This issue Boo talks about how Hamsters can be suitable pets for everyone! No age limits here! On page 04 Cool Cool Summer Summer, the time for sunbathing and ice creams, can be more difficult for our little furry friends! Worry not, Laura’s here to give you some tips and trick to keeping your Ham chilled out! On page 06 Ask the Expert! Our resident Hamster expert personally answers the queries you sent into us! On page 10 Hamster Health Check We all have a habit of worrying about our pets from time to time, so Rhonda’s here this issue to tell us all how to give your Hamster a basic check up! Take notes! On page 11 The Hamster Diaries This issue we’re with Percy pocket, a delightful, old albino Ham, who wants to show us his masterful skills in cleaning up food, and playing the invisible flute! On page 15 Reviews and Recommendations We’ve all had that though when shopping once; “Is this the best I can find?” Look no further! In this section we review and recommend the best bits for your Ham. On page 20 Featured Article: The European Hamster Have you ever wondered what your Ham would be like in its natural environment? Kiah Tulloch has been swamped in research in order to deliver this issue’s featured article on the wild European Hamster! On page 22

Hamster-Safe Foods Expanding on Knotty’s article from issue 1, Stephanie Reesor chats to us about what snacks and treat are best for your little friend! On page 26 Health Corner: Pyometra After her experiences with Pyometra and her hamster Citrus, Susie’s compiled this informative and reassuring article on the condition that only affects female hamsters. On page 29 The Creative Corner Stories, poems, artwork, comics and other creative and crafty tidbits! You made it, so now we show it off! On page 33 Diabetes Common but rarely discussed, diabetes is said to affect a large majority of store-bought Hamsters. To help us out, Charlie B tells us the story behind her happy little chappy, Alfie. On page 34 The Hamster Gallery Issue 3 sees the start of our Hamster Gallery! Brush those whiskers, ruffle that fur and strike a pose Hams! Our theme this issue is “Hamster Noms!” On page 36 Submissions? Do you want to write an article or have a photograph of your Hamster featured in The Hamster Mag? Find out how here! On page 39 Introducing… This is where can find details on The Hamster Mag staff and contributors. We offer hamster-sized cookies to all our contributors! On page 41

Issue 03 September 2013

Hello Slaves, Boo here, your favourite neighbourhood blogger. So last month I talked to all of you about the cool things you can put into your hamster’s homes, and I certainly hoped you listened, because… Well, it’s just cool stuff. Today though, I was having a discussion with Stephanie, my slave, and we were discussing how overlooked hamsters can be as pets for adults. This made me want to write a blog about the countless reasons hamsters are the perfect pets for any age, and not just for your child’s first pet (which can be a total disaster). Stephanie got her first hamster when she was nineteen, while she was living away from home at university. Sheldon was a black hamster, and apparently, he was the best decision she had ever made (because he eventually lead her to me, clearly!) Anyways, it was through having him, myself, and my sisters that she realized how perfectly suited hamsters are for adults. For starters, we are mostly nocturnal, which means we like to sleep during the day and are more active at night. While this can stink for little kids, many adults either go to school or work all day, and are up fairly late at night. So are we! This means we are less likely to notice your absence when you’re out, and we’ll be waking up when your potential free(er) time begins! How convenient! Secondly, we are fairly easy to maintain. If you do regular spot checks on us, you will not need to clean our cages out completely very often, which is good for us (we stress out less), and good for you, because it saves you time and money! Hamsters like me make it even easier because we only pee in one place so spot checks are a breeze! You’re welcome. 4

Issue 03 September 2013 You can also make our habitats AWESOME. Hamster habitats can be very cool looking and can add some serious character to your room. This is one of the countless reasons Stephanie likes tanks; because she can decorate them with so many things and they look very sophisticated. Stephanie told me that the number one reason hamsters make such great adult pets though, was because of the psychological benefits she experienced from Sheldon. She was in a bad student housing situation, and I guess Sheldon was sometimes all she had, and on the nights her roommates were really tough to deal with, she would make each of them a little dish of snacks and they’d watch a movie on her bed (apparently he used to sit with her for hours… What a patient ham.) Since then, she’s told me that the habit of looking after us and always having someone awake in the middle of the night has provided a sense of security that very little will ever trump. She says that when we all moved into the bachelor apartment, my noises at night kept her from thinking that everything she heard was a monster under her bed, since she knew it was me.

Sheldon, where everything got started

See? We’re awesome, and this is only the start of the list of reasons hamsters are awesome pets for adults. We have so much character in a small package, that most people overlook us. But you won’t now, will you? Until next time, be good to your hams, and to each other Boo 5

Issue 03 September 2013

As a Hamster owner, I’m always hearing about the importance of keeping your hamster the right temperatures; too cold and they may display hibernation behaviours and actually hibernate unless you can act to stop it in time. But what about summer? All animals have mechanisms to lose heat – humans can take off clothes, dogs pant, lizards move to shaded areas after basking, birds ruffle their feathers, some animals like cats can shed fur, and some animals – not many – can sweat. Most Hamsters unfortunately have none of these mechanisms; they don’t sweat, or pant, very few shed and go through coat-changes with seasons, and none of them can sweat. So what can they do? Male hamsters – lucky them - can tuck in their testicles to retain heat, or un-tuck them to expel heat – you may often see male hamsters venturing out of their nests with their testicles un-tucked as their nest has become warm from them sleeping in it so long. All hamsters can move to cooler parts of their cages, but during the middle of summer, moving from their nest to an open space in their cage - especially if it’s glass – won’t make all that much difference to them. Maintaining the temperatures in their cage-area during summer is just as important as it is during winter. So here are a number of cheap tips and tricks to help keep your hams cool while we’re wandering around in swimwear and consuming ice-related products! During Summer Timi’s cage is on the floor in front of my It’s a good idea to think about where your radiator – in between two windows! hamster’s cage is first of all. If you have a cage that is primarily made of glass and sits in a place where it may be exposed to direct sunlight during the day, it may be a good idea to move it if you can to a more shaded area as glass cages can very quickly become magnifying glasses for heat. If like me you have a wire and plastic cage which is out of the way of direct sunlight, then all you need to do is try and regulate the temperature of the area. Plastic and wire cages can be moved out of direct sunlight, and as heat rises they can even be placed on the floor as long as they’re kept away from drafty areas – such as near doors or windows that tend to be open a lot. But if you have a glass tank that you can’t move, worry not! There are still plenty of ways to help cool your ham down. Cooling mats are a good investment if you live somewhere that always gets hot during summer. Alternatives to cooling mats are aluminium houses, ice houses, or even ceramic and marble tiles. Cooling mats, aluminium accessories and tiles can be placed inside the cage, either on a flat surface (i.e. on a shelf) or underneath the substrate on the base to cool the cage from underneath. Small houses may be a good place for hams to sit just when they get too hot, rather than having the cage permanently cooled. Cooling mats and houses can range from £5 to £20 in price and can be bought from pet retailers that specialise in small animal stock. You can buy tiles from any local DIY retailer and the price can vary. 6

Issue 03 September 2013 Another trick I have learned, is the glass jar trick. Timi, while fond of burrowing, also seem to have a fondness for solid surfaces like glass and plastic when he needs to cool down, so I’ve taken to putting an old dip jar in the freezer for 10 or so minutes and putting it in his cage when he needs to cool down. He was a little startled at first but now he seems to love it! All ceramic or glass items – even the tiles you can use in place of cooling mats – can be placed in the fridge or freezer for a period of time to help cool your Ham more efficiently. =3 I once had a friend who had six spare tiles and would rotate them on her Ham’s shelf when she was at home to ensure there was always something relatively cool in her Ham’s cage. But please check for each individual item whether they are freezer-safe, and never leave them in longer than absolutely necessary! It should go without saying to ensure that your hamster always has fresh water – it doesn’t matter whether your Ham’s water is contained in a glass or plastic water bottle as the water can heat up very quickly regardless, even if it’s not in direct sunlight. If you’re in doubt, change their water every evening just before your hamster usually wakes up, and that way they’ll have nice cool water waiting for them. You can put small ice cubes in your hams water to help keep it cool, but I wouldn’t advise doing this repeatedly or putting too many ice cubes in. Giving them cool treats is also an option, but must be done carefully. I tend to give Timi small pieces of Strawberry or Cucumber – straight out of the fridge and then washed in cold water – when it’s a bit warm. Not only does he love them but they cools him down! Carrot, and some fruits like apple and melon can all be fridged to cool. Be careful with the amount you offer and don’t give them more than one piece a week of the more watery/soft fruit and veg, like cucumber and melon. It’s always a good idea to squeeze off excess water and air-dry the treat before giving it. If your hamster cage is primarily plastic (a Habitrail or Ferplast for example,) you’ll need to pay extra attention to your hamster’s behaviour as the weather gets hotter. Plastic cages are notorious for bad circulation and your Ham may struggle to cool off. You can always make a playpen with cool tiles underneath to give them extra fresh air and cooling time outside of their cage. But there are other tricks too. 7

Issue 03 September 2013 While relocating your cage to a lower location is a good idea, be mindful of any other pets and the location, i.e. near doors, windows or anywhere it’s likely to get kicked or bashed is bad. There are plenty of ways to get around your cage if you find you can’t move it. One trick I’ve seen used is to freeze a plastic bottle of water, and lay it near the side of the cage. If you lay it against the side of the cage where you Hamster is nesting, this will help them to stay cool even when they’re sleeping! If you’re worried about it being too cold – wrap the bottle up in a thin towel. I’ve also heard recommendations to just adjust your air conditioning and even put standing/desk fans near to cages. But these are both bad ideas! Hamsters are unfortunately very prone to illnesses such as pneumonia, which is why allowing them to hibernate can be problematic. Drafts are bad for hamsters, and air-regulation systems like air conditioning and fans are in effect, drafts. Some AC systems can also harbour bacteria that’s bad for everyone, even you! If you can, avoid adjusting your air conditioning unless it works in a way that doesn’t blow cold air directly out, or simply ensure your Ham’s cage is nowhere near an AC vent. One Hamster-friendly draft I can recommend is very simple – windows. Most people tend to keep windows wide open during summer, and while keeping windows open mean you often have to deal with the added bonus of insects, it’s a good idea to at least keep your windows open a crack – especially during the day and especially if you hamster is in a room that gets the midday sun. I noticed that Timi seemed much more comfortable when I started to keep my windows open just a little all the time, as my room gets the morning sunshine. How can I tell if my Hamster is too hot? 

If your Hamster is male check his testicles – if they’re untucked and visible, it means they’re trying to loose body heat, if they’re tucked in they’re trying to retain heat. But remember that monitoring your hams testicles isn’t a foolproof guide as to whether they’re too hot or cold – they adjust their testicles a lot but it can help you along with all the other signs.

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Increased water intake can be another sign that your hamster is being dehydrated a little by the heat, however, this can also mean a number of other things illness-wise. So if your hamster begins to drink excessively and there are other symptons, or you are worried for any reason about your ham’s health, please take them to see a vet as soon as possible.

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General lethargy can also be a sign of overheating, but similar to increased water intake, this can also be a sign of something else; lethargia in Hamsters is usually associated with infections or a dietry issue – my Dwarf Milo had recurring eye infections, and he was always more lethargic when he had one, but a quick trip the vet and one week of antibiotics fixed him right up! So once again, if you have any reason to believe you hamster is not simply too hot, please take them to a vet as soon as you can – you can even ask a friend, family member or your significant other to take them for you if you’re unable to for any reason.

Issue 03 September 2013 

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Sleeping habits and positions are often missed, because usually, we don’t see our Hams – at least, I certainly don’t! – when they’re sleeping away in their nest. Timi is usually buried under his log house and several inches of carefresh that’s so dense, he usually can’t hear me calling for him. But if you are able to see your Ham sleeping, check what position they are sleeping in; if your hamster is sleeping on its back, this is a sign that it may be too warm. Hamsters lose more heat from their belly than from their back, so they so they instinctively turn over while sleeping to lose heat more easily. Although like the other signs, this is not a giveaway on its own. Hamsters will often get warm in their nests and it’s not uncommon or something to be worried about. But if your hamster is displaying a few of the other signs, is sleeping outside their nest or has adjusted their nest to be more open and they’re sleeping on their back, it may be safe to assume they may be too warm. Although Dwarf hamsters come from colder climates and Syrian hamsters from warmer climates, neither origin means that your hamster won’t struggle with the seasons or temperatures that come with those seasons.

Hamsters have been domesticated for a long time and have lost a fair amount of their in-built behaviours and traits as domestic pets, so it’s always a good idea to help your hamster out as much as you can, whatever the weather!

Issue 03 September 2013

Our secret Hamster expert answers the questions you send! If you’ve a question you can’t find the answer to, or if everyone’s saying different things, worry not! Our hamster expert gives advice based on experience of what has really worked for people, so you know you are getting the right information. Q1. My hamster always smells! We clean her out every 2 days but it still stinks! What is wrong with her? A. Female Syrians often smell really bad when they are on 'Heat'. This is to do with breeding, and females will come into heat about every 4 days. It is really important that you stop cleaning out your hamster so often. The more often you clean out your hamster, the more stressed it will get! It is recommended that, as long as you spot clean poops and the wee corner, that bedding does not need a complete change any more than once a month. As long as it is poop and wee free, the less you clean out the full cage, the better! Q2. My hamster loves to climb, and often hangs from the bars on the top of his cage! I am really worried about him falling and hurting himself, but I don't know how to stop him climbing. A. Some hamsters are just natural born climbers, and unless you get a cage with no bars, there is really no way to stop it. Luckily, deep bedding to provide a soft landing pad, along with hammocks that can be hung underneath big drops to break any falls are good safety measures. Q3. I want to keep my hamster downstairs, but I am worried the household noises will keep him awake in the day. Should he be kept somewhere quieter, like a bedroom? A. Your hamster will get used to sounds in the day, and eventually learn to sleep through them. In fact, keeping hamsters in a bedroom can keep the human awake, since they are so noisy at night! Your hamster will be fine kept downstairs with the household activity, and is more likely then to adjust his sleeping pattern to wake earlier for playtime, too. Q4. Can hamsters have hay? A. Hamsters do not need hay, and there is always a risk that it could damage their cheek pouches, but some hamsters do very much enjoy eating it and using it as bedding. If you want to use it, I recommend using only a small amount along with the usual bedding. Be very careful about where you buy it from - not in bulk or from farms as these can carry mites. Hay from a pet store is best. Q5. I've heard people talk about sand baths, what are these? A. Sand baths, or dust baths, are commonly used among hamster owners. Hamsters usually love rolling around them! Buy some Chinchilla Sand (Make sure it is not dust, the packet must say sand) and put it in a small pot or bowl big enough to hold your hamster. Make it about 3cm deep. Dwarf hamsters are the biggest lovers of sand baths, although Syrians, especially long haired ones, will benefit from them too!

Do you have a question for our resident expert? Get in contact via our website, or email them to us at bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com

Issue 03 September 2013

Hamsters have a very short life span which means that if they get sick they can deteriorate and die quite quickly, in this article I'm going to go over a hamster health check you can do on your little furry friends to check they are okay. It's up to you to decide how often and when to check your hamster/s because of how quickly they can deteriorate. I tend to check them at least twice a week but you can do it as often as you can/want to. At this point I need to say if you find/suspect anything wrong with your hamster then you must take them to the vet, the sooner you take a hamster the bigger chance of being able to save his/her life. Weight - the first thing I check is a hamster’s weight, now I tend to do this daily just so I can keep their weight in check and to make sure they aren't Losing or gaining weight too quickly, a lot of illnesses will show in a hamster losing weight because with a lot of illnesses they stop or cut down on eating. A hamster’s weight like a human’s can fluctuate throughout the day (by up to 6g) so it's important to weigh them at the same time. A hamster’s weight will steadily increase up to six months of age and will start to slowly decrease after 18 months of age which is why it's good to regularly weigh them and note it down, slow decreases are ok but sudden drops in weight can indicate a health problem. A good size Syrian can weigh 200g or more but pet shop hamsters can weigh less (although not always, I've had some pet shop hamsters weigh well over 200g) Teeth - hamsters have 16 teeth, a pair of incisors on either side (4 in total) and three pairs of molars or cheek teeth (12 in total). The incisor teeth keep growing throughout a hamster’s life which is why it is important to check them regularly, if they do get too long you will have to take your hamster to the vet to get them clipped. The bottom teeth should be longer than the top ones and they are yellow in colour. 11

Issue 03 September 2013 It's important to provide a hamster with something to chew, they won't always use it but it should be provided regardless. A dribble/wet chin can be an indication of overgrown teeth, so have a look at your hamster’s chin. I find the best way to check a hamster’s teeth is to hold his/her favourite treat above them and when they stand to take it have a look at their teeth. Nose - a hamster’s nose should be wet but not overly so, there should be no discharge, if there is then it’s possible your hamster could either have a cold or it could be an allergy to something. Hamsters can often be allergic to dusty cage material or the fine dust particles you find in sawdust, if you find this is the case then change bedding/cage material to something not dusty. Eyes - a hamster’s eyes should be clean and clear, there should be no discharge or redness, if there is any then seek veterinary advice, also sunken in eyes can indicate illness so look out for this too. Ears - a young hamster will have little hairs on their ears where as an older hamster will have very little hairs and their ears appear shiny, sometimes a hamster’s ears can go dry and flaky (especially older hamsters) but a little oil rubbed into their ears will relieve the dryness and flaking. Fur and nails - a hamster’s nails can become long which can impede movement and cause a hamster pain, not to mention they may get caught on something. Check each paw for long nails, from experience a hamster will scratch the bottom of its cage but you can also use chinchilla sand which the hamster will dig through. If these things don't work then trimming the nails is an option, it can be done yourself at home but if you have a wiggly hamster I suggest taking it to a vet, from experience the majority of hamsters will keep their own nails short, out of over 30 hamsters I've had I've only had one that I had to take to the vet for nail clipping. A hamster will lose its fur as it gets older, don't be alarmed at this, a younger hamster losing its fur could indicate mites or an allergy so should be taken to the vet, when you have the hamster out check for bald spots and if you see any check the skin for signs of redness or flaking, also don't forget to check a hamster’s belly as well. Hamsters are very clean animals and they will spend a good amount of time grooming, when a hamster is ill they often don't groom so look out for dishevelled fur. 12

Issue 03 September 2013 Scent glands - a hamster’s scent glands should be checked, they shouldn't ever cause any problems for a hamster but can sometimes become blocked, rub your fingers gently over them to check for signs of scabbing and look out for signs of discharge. Rear end - a hamster’s rear end should be lean and dry, to check this pick up the hamster by wrapping your fingers firmly (but not tightly) around the middle of the hamster then gently turn them on to their back, the check should take seconds but it is a must as a wet/dirty rear end can indicate wet tail which must be treated ASAP as it can kill a hamster in a couple of days. Lumps, bumps and swellings - a hamster should be checked regularly for lumps and bumps. I check their back and sides and also their chest and abdomen, the chest and abdomen checks are done when I'm checking their back end, I gently press on their abdomen to check for lumps and swelling, I also stroke a hamster from head to tail to make sure there are no lumps, bumps or swelling elsewhere. Behaviour - it's important to know your hamster, how they behave etc. If your hamster is an active, hyper, wants to be out all the time hamster then suddenly they don't want out it can indicate a health problem. How they act is also another indication, when they come out are they active or are they sat hunched up, are they cleaning, do they have sunken eyes? Not all hamsters are active when they come out, a lot of mine will happily just sit and watch but they show no signs of illness. Things not on a hamster to be checked It’s not only the hamster itself you have to check, you also need to check other things Food – hamsters, like humans, can be picky eaters, you need to make sure they are getting a variety of food and nutrients as if they aren't it can cause things like fur loss, dry skin and vitamin deficiency so make sure you check where a hamster is storing its food and make sure they are eating it. Water - the average intake for a hamster is 10ml per 100g of body weight, the water bottle should be checked daily not only to make sure it's working but to keep a check on how much your hamster is drinking, if they are drinking a lot it can indicate diabetes and if they aren't they can get dehydrated. The cage itself - the cage should be checked regularly for signs of mould (especially if you feed your hamsters fresh food) and diarrhoea, checking the bedding is also a good idea as a lot of hamsters store their food in their bedding. Stools - hamsters have two types of stools a softer stool which they will eat (this is normal) and a harder darker stool, stools should be checked regularly for signs of diarrhoea, you may see it or smell it but if your hamster has it the veterinary treatment must be sought. 13

Issue 03 September 2013 Summary If you are at all worried about your hamster or you find something during a health check that concerns you then please take your little one to the vet as early treatment is vital for saving your little friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life and don't forget not only to check your little one but check their home too.

Issue 03 September 2013

Hi, my name is Percy Pocket, welcome to my diary!

Here is my first entry in my diary, it is my ID card. As you can see I am a mature hamster, my owner says I'm very old.

I was six weeks when my owner bought me, here is me arriving at my owners home in my travel box. I was so scared and shy that I hid behind it to look at my owner.

Issue 03 September 2013 But it didn't take long for me to fit in; I was made very welcome as you can see by this pile of nibbles and fresh sawdust in my new cage.

Exercise is very important for a hamster so my owner bought me this lovely green ball to run in, hamsters can run for many miles. My owner closes the lid and places it on my girostand so I can run without bumping into the furniture. I love it.

Issue 03 September 2013 I also have this large wheel which I run in when I am out of my cage. Running burns a lot of calories and so I need nibbles to replenish my energy.

As I said running burns a lot of calories. It is also very important to nibble on greens and veg, it keeps me healthy.

Issue 03 September 2013 But never forget a treat now and again is part of a balanced diet. This is one of my favorite treats - honey seed block.

Don't forget to clean up after eating, and now time for a little invisible flute playing.

Issue 03 September 2013 My owner and I like to play hide and seek. I'm very good at it, I always win!

After a long productive day of running, nibbling and playing, I'm very tired as I am long in the tooth now so night-night!

Issue 03 September 2013

Science Selective Hamster Nuggets by GhostsInSnow Supreme’s most well-known food Is Harry Hamster which is endorsed by the NHC, however, Supreme also do a nugget range called Science Selective. I feed both my hamsters this in conjunction with their other mixes and Fudge, my Syrian particularly enjoys it. The percentages are Protein 19.0%, Crude fibre 5.0%, Fat content 5.0%, Inorganic matter 5.5%, so pretty much the same as Harry Hamster but with it being a nugget food, it prevents selective feeding and you can be sure your hammie is getting all the nutrients it needs. Also, it has no sugar so can even be fed to hams that are prone to, or suffer from, Diabetes! Fudge likes the mix because she can pouch loads of it and pile it up in her house without having to mess around with little seeds and they are also a cute little heart shape which is great for those with “girly” hams.

It has recently become quite easy to get hold of. You can get singular 350g bags from pet-supermarket and it can also be found on zooplus where you can get a single bag or a pack of 3. Twisty nest bedding By Susie

Twisty nest bedding is bedding made by Supreme which is a trustworthy and well known company. It provides many benefits to your pet and their cage, it is colourful so adds an aesthetically pleasing touch to the cage. The bedding itself is dust free and softer than some beddings on the market. The bedding was designed to enrich the hamster’s life by the task of unravelling the bedding provided to them, though whether the hamster opts to do this is down to the individual hamster. A bag of it is reasonably priced at around 4 pounds per 500g bag, though the downside is this does not last very long. The bedding is very absorbent, as stated on the packet and keeps odours under control. 20

Issue 03 September 2013 Living World Salad Bowls by Linford Living World have recently released a new range of products - the Green range. Bilbo, our 5 month old Syrian hamster, has been sampling them for us! He tried the following salads: Carrot, Rose Hip, Dandelion and Alfalfa. Marigold, Strawberry and Green Oat. Parsley, Parsnip and Meadow Grass. Rose Hip, Ribwort and Sunflower Petals. He was happy to sample them all, having a little nibble of each one, but the only one he wanted more of was the Parsley, Parsnip and Meadow Grass salad.

He preferred to use the others as bedding, taking them to his nest and sleeping on them! They weren't a huge hit with him, but if you have a hamster that enjoys its greens, it would be worth giving one or two of them a go. They are suitable for all small animals, and I know Guinea Pigs and Rabbits would definitely enjoy them, so are a must purchase if you own a hamster as well as another furry. Overall, it is worth trying out one or two pots before buying the whole set, because they are perhaps not suited to most hamsters tastes - it depends on your hamster. It is made of 100% natural ingredients. You do get a lot of it in one pot, so a hamster will take quite a few servings to finish it! Bilbo is still enjoying the Meadow Grass, Parsley and Parsnip weekly. It will be available for purchase soon, so keep an eye out! Visit the Living World Range here: http://ca-en.livingworldgreen.com/who-we-are Next issue we will have a detailed review on Living World Green's new habitat, the Eco Habitat! It arrived as the magazine was being released, and is currently being trialled, so keep an eye out for it! Meanwhile why not take a look at it at http://caen.livingworldgreen.com

Issue 03 September 2013

The European hamster (scientific name: cricetus cricetus), is also known as the black-bellied hamster, common hamster or Eurasian hamster, and is a nocturnal, solitary rodent not too physically dissimilar to the domestic Syrian hamster that has made us their willing servants at some time in our lives. The first black-bellied hamster was documented in 1679 and given its name in 1758 by Swedish botanist and zoologist, Carl Linnaeus, who is considered the father of modern taxonomy 1. Appearance The European hamster somewhat resembles the golden hamster in appearance. It has brown fur covering its back, with accents of white around the cheeks and mouth and on its side, but the distinguishing feature for the blackbellied hamster is of course the ebony black fur that covers its underside – hence the nickname ‘black-bellied hamster’. While this is the typical appearance of the species, no two individuals will have exactly the same shade of brown fur and there have been albino and melanistic2 animals as well, although these are very rare. 1

Taxonomy – the finding and naming of species. Melanistic - melanism is the exact opposite of albinism, and occurs when an animal has an abundance of dark-coloured pigment in its skin. 2

Issue 03 September 2013 The other feature that sets the species aside from its golden cousin is its size. The European hamster is the largest species of the hamster family and averages around 12 inches (30 centimetres) in length and can weigh as much as 500g. The largest recorded European hamster measured in at a jaw-dropping 14 inches. To offer a mental picture of this, think of a fully grown guinea pig; guinea pigs can average between 10 to 14 inches in length, but are slightly bulkier at an average weight of around 900g. Gives new meaning to the term ‘teddy bear hamster’ doesn’t it? Habitat Fruitful steppes, riverbanks and grassland were the hamsters’ preferred habitats in years gone by, but the plucky little rodent has adapted to manmade changes to the land and can now be found by road verges, in meadowlands, crop lands and even near human settlements such as apartment complexes. Wild hamsters live in burrows. European hamster burrows can be as deep as two metres, and are normally found in rich, heavy soils such as loam, which is a mixture of sand, clay and organic matter. The average burrow normally consists of a dwelling chamber, toilet pit and food store. It’s the hamster equivalent of a studio – one bed, one bath and a kitchen!

Hamsters spend the winter in these deep burrows, hibernating and surviving on food stocks gathered and stored during the autumn months. They are not true hibernators that sleep all through the winter months, but they do sleep for a prolonged period of time, which is usually a matter of weeks.

Issue 03 September 2013 The geography of the European hamster is fairly widespread, ranging from France to Siberia. However, these mammals are currently on the endangered species list. As of 2012, France was home to fewer than 200 blackbellied hamsters, and the Netherlands, Germany and Belgium have also reported decreased population figures. European hamster numbers are higher in eastern European countries; they are more commonly spotted in Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Romania, but unfortunately their populations are now declining in all regions. The populations in France are believed to have been devastated by modern farming practices and urban development as well as the fact that they are considered pests since they feed on farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; crops. Sadly, animals caught feeding on crops are often destroyed. The exact reason for the decline in the other regions is not yet fully understood. The European hamster is protected by the strict legal guidelines of Annex IV of the Habitats Directive and appendix II of the Bern Convention, which forbids the disturbance, harm or destruction of the individual animals or their burrows. These rules have been further reinforced in France in recent years with the Court of Justice in Luxembourg threatening a fine of ÂŁ24.6m if France did not better protect these endangered animals. Food Much like our beloved pets, the black-bellied hamster eats seeds, grains, grasses, fruits and vegetables. However, being a wild animal, these hamsters have quite a diverse diet and additions to this can include insects, small amphibians such as lizards and frogs as well as small mammals such as mice. Also like domesticated hamsters, the European hamster has cheek pouches for hoarding food, and these can hold between 20 and 30 grams of food.

Life expectancy and reproduction The European hamster can live up to eight years. This is on average four times longer than a Syrian hamster. There is some dispute about the conditions under which a black-bellied hamster will live up to eight years; some sources say it is in the wild when they are able to hibernate and some say it is in captivity where the danger of predators (birds of prey and foxes) has been removed.

Female hamsters become sexually mature at around three months old and males at two months old. Breeding season normally starts in April and lasts until August, and females come into season every four to six days. Each individual adult lives in a separate burrow and this is generally the only time that a female will tolerate a male in her territory. The gestation period is 18 to 21 days and females have been known to have between two and five litters per year. Litter sizes can consist of between four and 12 pups.

Fun Fact! Did you know that the European hamster is a good swimmer? It inflates its cheek pouches with air and uses them as flotation aids while swimming. 24

Issue 03 September 2013 European hamsters as pets At present, very few people believe the European hamster is a suitable pet for experienced adults let alone children. While these animals have been kept and handled in laboratories for research purposes, they are very rarely kept as pets. The wild black-bellied hamster can be very aggressive and will not hesitate to defend itself if frightened or if it feels threatened. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had a painful nip from your own little hammy, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unlikely you will want to experience one from an individual at least four times the size!

Rumour has itâ&#x20AC;Ś The European hamster can squirt its pee into the eye of any animal it perceives as a threat, and supposedly its aim is fairly accurate.

There have been a few people that have managed to tame a European hamster to some degree, and of course individual hamsters will have different temperaments so some are likely to be more responsive to taming than others. However, given its aggressive nature and its secured place on the endangered species list, perhaps this is one small rodent that is best left untamed.

Issue 03 September 2013

Hamsters are like humans, they love a variety of food, a lot of food is safe for a hamster to eat and in this article I will be discussing hamster safe foods. Hamster mix The main part of a hamsterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diet should be made up of the hamster mix. This can either be pre made or you can make it yourself. There are loads of pre made hamster mixes out there, make sure you pick a hamster one as mixes for other small animals have different protein and vitamin content. The main things in a hamster mix are: Crushed oats Clipped oats Flaked maize Sunflower seeds Peanuts Dried peas Grass pellets The hamster mixes may contain other things like other kinds of nuts or dried fruit, veg and even things like Mealworms. Fresh fruit and vegetables Fruit and veg should either be fresh, or frozen and frost free. If fresh they should be washed thoroughly and left to drain before being put in the cage. I find that the day before cage cleaning is the best day to give fresh food as it won't have a chance to go mouldy. A small amount should be fed, I give a piece the size of my thumb nail and I feed them it once or twice a week. A pregnant or nursing mum can have a small amount of fresh greens every day. Hamsterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastes will differ from hamster to hamster, my Hams love peas and broccoli, some other things you can try are: Broad beans Runner beans Carrots Sweet corn Cucumber Sweet potato Apple Banana Strawberries Melon The amount you can give and how often will also depend on the hamster, if you give a hamster too much too often they will get diarrhoea so if this happens give less or less often.

Issue 03 September 2013 Plants Hamsters can eat certain plants, things like dandelion (leaf and flower), groundsel, clover and watercress are very much enjoyed by hamsters, raspberry shoots are enjoyed in early spring and a small strawberry leaf can be given if your hamster has loose droppings. Plants to be avoided are: Buttercup Bluebells Bindweed Ragwort Elder Hemlock Speedwell Privet If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re unsure about anything, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better to be safe than sorry and not give it to your Ham! Treats Hamsters like humans love treats but you should remember that they are exactly that (treats), they should be fed as well as hamster mix not instead of and not every day. Pet shops sell loads of treats, yoghurt and chocolate drops are very popular in this house, the chocolate drops used in hamster choc drops has a higher melting point than human chocolate so it won't melt in their pouch. Under no circumstances feed hamsters chocolate meant for human consumption! These treats also have high sugar content so they should be given sparingly to any Dwarf hamsters or Hamsters that may have Diabetes. Seed coated sticks are another good one, the can be hung from the cage (or if your Ham is anything like my hamster Shearer, stripped and stored in about 10 minutes!) Simple treats like a piece of dried banana, raisin, sultana, a piece of plain biscuit or some cooked potato are very much enjoyed too, hamsters also enjoy millet spray. Nuts and seeds are also very much enjoyed by hamsters, we always make sure we have a bag of pumpkin seeds, walnuts and almonds handy. They tend to prefer the walnuts over anything else. 27

Issue 03 September 2013 Protein Hamsters need a high protein diet to stay healthy. Most pre-made hamster foods have a good level of protein but other protein foods can be fed, foods such as: Chicken breast (skinless) Turkey Cheese (Sparingly!) Salmon Egg (scrambled, hard or soft boiled, fried with no oil) Meal worm (live or dead) Tuna (drained if using tinned) Nuts Like with other treats a small amount (thumb nail size) should be given and should not be given daily unless the hamster is pregnant or nursing. Mash and milky foods Mash and milky foods are good for young hamsters, nursing mothers, hamsters recovering from an operation, stroke or are older hamsters. Milky foods can be fed in the form of porridge, bread soaked in milk or pasta sold in milk. Like with other foods a small amount should be given, a tea spoon full is ample and will be enjoyed. Older hamsters will often put the harder food into the porridge to soften it up. Milky foods can also be given to hamsters that have tooth problems. Summary Fruit and veg should be fresh or frozen, if fresh must be washed and drained before giving. Treats should not be fed instead of a hamster mix. Treats should not be fed on a daily basis. Choose food that you yourself would consume.

Issue 03 September 2013

What is Pyometra? Pyometra is a condition predominantly seen in the older female Syrian Hamster, though it can be seen in younger hamsters and, on rare occasions, female dwarf hamsters. In this condition, the uterus becomes infected. The onset and progression of Pyometra is so quick that it is advised to seek veterinary help immediately if symptoms are noticed. (Note, female hamsters come into heat every 4 days so it is normal to see discharge around the vulva at this time. Pyometra is caused by hormonal changes where the uterus lining is altered. The bacteria involved are thought to enter the uterus through the cervix and often occurs around the time of normal oestrus.) Types of Pyometra Open Pyometra- In open Pyometra, the cervix remains or becomes open, and pus and/or blood then drain out the body via the vulva which originates from the infected uterus. Open pyometra is considered more treatable than closed Pyometra. Closed Pyometra- Closed Pyometra is where the cervix is kept closed. This results in a build up of pus from inside the uterus as it is not able to drain from the body. The build up of pus can cause abdominal distension and an increase of pressure inside the uterus. A closed Pyometra can be difficult to detect until it is in the advanced stages because of the absence of visible signs of discharge from the vulva. Signs of Pyometra       

Yellow discharge and/or blood from the vulva (open pyometra) Firm stomach Strong musky smell Drinking more Occasionally feces may be seen around the rear end as Pyo can cause bowel issues too. Distended stomach (closed Pyometra) Can be lethargic

If urgent treatment is not sought, the bacteria can get into the blood stream causing Septicaemia (blood poisoning). This can happen in both open and closed Pyometra. Once the toxins and bacteria are in the blood stream, the organs, such as the liver, may not be able to cope with filtering out the toxins which results in toxins accumulating in the blood and eventually the brain, or the uterus may rupture and the infection gets into the abdomen causing peritonitis.

Issue 03 September 2013 Signs of Septicaemia  Not grooming  Unresponsive  Irritable  Inappetence  Refusing to drink  Loss of balance  Stumbling  Shaking  Coma/Death Treatment options for Pyometra The only real cure for Pyometra is to have the hamster spayed (removal of the uterus). This is, however, a high risk procedure and some hamsters are deemed unsuitable for surgery due to various reasons. In this case, the treatment options are Pyometra management in the form of keeping the hamster on antibiotics (normally Baytril/ Septrin) or the use of high dose Baytril and the drug called Galastop (generic name cabergoline). This drug combination is known to successfully manage Pyo. If the hamster is fit, active and healthy, and your vet thinks they will tolerate surgery well, spaying is the best choice and should be done as soon as possible. Pyometra management offers hope for the hamsters who won’t do well with surgery. Citrus’ story I began to notice my 14 month old mink Syrian hamster Citrus appeared to be on heat every day. I was absolutely devastated because the one thing that was in my mind was Pyometra. I instantly took her to the vets. 8th April 2013 – Took Citrus to the vet, my vet put her under a bit of gas anaesthetic so she could have a thorough check of her. She took a sample of the discharge for analysis under a microscope which resulted in that she had lots of bacteria in her. Citrus was found to have of pus in her, unsure of whether it was in her bladder or in her womb. Citrus has been given Septrin antibiotic for 10 days... if she deteriorates at all in that time, she is to immediately go in for a spay. If she remains well in herself, then I am to go back in 10 days for a check up and to be given a longer course of Septrin. I have to give her baby food mixed with water frequently, to make her urinate alot... urinate the infection out if it is in her bladder. She is still acting completely normal. Taking her Septrin with baby food 30

Citrus’ purple stomach before she started bleeding

Issue 03 September 2013 12 April 2013- I noticed tonight that Citrus’ stomach area had turned a purple colour. I continued to observe her and she started having blood come out of her vulva and thick yellow pus. I decide I must take Citrus back to the vets immediately, since there should be no deterioration whilst on antibiotics. She remains bright and alert though. th

13th April 2013- Took Citrus back to the vets where she was diagnosed with open Pyometra. The Vet and I set an appointment for Monday 15th April for her to go in at 8:10-8:30am where she will be having x-rays to ensure there is no lumps and bumps inside her and if all be well, to go forward with the spay. In the meantime I am to continue administering Septrin antibiotic, giving watery baby food and keep her strength up. 15th April 2013- Dropped Citrus off at the vets at 8:20am. Around 2:20pm I got a call and she’d had her x-rays; they were all clear. The pus had gotten considerably less in her womb on the Septrin than the first appointment, so it was the choice of whether to continue antibiotics or go ahead with the spay. I decided that I wanted to have her spayed immediately, because it’s the only cure. What if symptoms recurred later down the line when she wasn’t as strong and couldn’t take surgery? Might as well solve it now while she is as strong as she is. So, the operation went ahead... my vet explained to me that during the operation Citrus would be kept on heat mats to ensure her body temperature was good... hamsters lose heat very fast especially during surgical procedures.

Citrus’ hospital cage. Hot water bottles and towels around the cage to keep her warm post surgery. Easy access to foods & water.

She would also be given fluids, glucose and metacam (painkiller) injections. It took about an hour and I got a phone call at 3:30pm saying that all was well, Citrus had got through the operation and I could come and collect her at 4:30pm. I made a hospital mini duna cage ready for Citrus’ return. As I knew she wouldn’t be very strong, it would be a struggle for her to get around and she would need easy access to her food, baby food and water. I made her a large open nest in the corner of the cage for her to sleep in. I decided she’d let me know when she was feeling well enough to return to her cage and have cuddles etc.

Issue 03 September 2013

Citrus’ return. Operation... what operation?!

In her hospital cage nom nomming.

17th April 2013- Today Citrus had a post operation checkup, she had a bit of moisturiser around her stitches so it’s not so dry but otherwise she is now deemed fully healthy. Continuing Septrin (on vet advice) for another 5 days just to be on the safe side.

Citrus’ stitches – dissolvable internal ones.

Back in her Alaska cage, fully healthy... Back to normal and cured of Pyometra. 32

Issue 03 September 2013

Welcome to the Creative Corner where we feature the creative creations you send us! This lovely Hamster shelf was created by GhostsInSnow using a tutorial done by another member of Hamster Central! “The Knuff Magazine holders from IKEA come in packs of two but you only need one. I took the back off and put two coats of plastikote on it so it would be easy to clean. To make the little fences, I used a pack of small dowels. I glued the fences separately with PVA glue and attached them to the platform when they were dry. It’s probably a good idea to do one side at a time as the glue makes the fences move around. For decoration on top, I got a pack of mushroom nibblers and glued those to the platform. I also use a pack of garden herbs from Zooplus as ‘substrate’ and my Robo Sheldon loves it!” These two adorable needlefelted Hamsters are affectionately known as Hamlet and Miss Havisham. Created by Jenny under her shop name Mythillogical, and inspired by her very own Syrian Hamster muse, David Bowie, Jenny originally created Hamlet and Miss Havisham for a commissioner, but they were so popular they were flying off their Hamster-sized shelves! “On the very day I posted Hamlet off to his new owner in Scotland, I received a message from a graduate in the US who had also fallen in love with Hamlet, and was wondering if I could make another for her. I agreed and set up a reserve listing for her, only to wake up the following day to discover it had been bought by another lady in Japan! So I have been kept very happily busy needle felting Shakespearean Hamsters. Thankfully I enjoy making them and now people can choose the colour of the hamster - just in case they want something to remind them of a hamster they own(ed).” Check out her adorable creations at http://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/Mythillogical !

Got a drawing, poem, knitted hamster, or other creative creation you want to be here? Just email bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com 33

Issue 03 September 2013

You would never guessed that this little dude is diabetic. Alfie came to his forever home in December 2012 with his brother Percy, and he was a happy little chappy. Now Alfie is a very excitable little man and hates to stay still, exploring is too interesting! When I got him home I was concerned over how energetic he was, it led to me separating him from his brother as he became poorly from over exercising. One day he became limp and cold, so he was put into a glove on my lap with a hot water bottle until he Came back round. At this point I had no idea what was wrong, we trundled to the vet and were told there was nothing wrong with him and that he had just exhausted himself. At this point I thought I would get some things in to test him at home for diabetes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just as a precaution. He was negative and I was so relieved! We carried on as normal and he was reintroduced to his brother. A couple of months went past and a second brother of his, Archie, became poorly. I tested him and it was the dreaded diabetes; unfortunately he passed less than a week later and we had no time to help him. We did start some insulin injections as he was in a bad way, and other medication available would not have helped at this point. I managed a few injections for him but it was his time to go to the bridge. A few days after I noticed Alfie was drinking a lot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not just slightly more than normal, but over double what he was. He was also looking smaller so I grabbed the scales and weighed him to find that he had lost weight. Instantly I put him into a dry, clean carrier and within minutes he peed. I put him back into his cage and got out the keto-diastix. I burst into tears as I was watching the colours changing. He was diabetic! How could this happen to not one but 2 of my little boys! I picked up the phone to the vet before I had even processed what was going on. They agreed he was diabetic and we were to start medication immediately. I also changed his diet to a sugar free, high protein diet to help try control things. We started him on a drug called Glipizide and to get the mixture correct it was very confusing. I had to dissolve the tablet into a specific amount of water and then take a precise amount of that and then put that into his estimated daily drinking water. A week in and there was no improvement; my heart sank as I read the results of a test. His water consumption hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reduced and he started to pee in his nest. I rang the vets and we agreed he needed something more. We upped his dose, not just slightly but 10 times the amount he had before. After a couple of days I repeated the test. YES!!!! He was improving. His glucose had come down and his ketones had almost disappeared. We gave him another 2 days and again, glucose was reduced and ketones had gone completely! 34

Issue 03 September 2013 We gave the vet the good news and he was to be kept on the same dose. His water consumption had reduced as well to 8ml a day rather than the 16ml he was having. A week on and we did the test several more times, as he appeared to be drinking more again and I was concerned. I did another test, How?? Glucose and Ketones at the highest reading! I rang the vet first thing in the morning; his dose was to be doubled. This is the highest dose that is known to be beneficial. We are now at this point and currently there is no improvement. It has only been a few days so we have our fingers crossed that the next test will give us something positive. If not we will be considering insulin injections. I will be avoiding this at all costs, this would mean testing twice a day, and scruffing him for injections. He has become a bit nippy at times but is still active. He is sleeping more than he used to and still drinks and pees more than normal. He has to have regular bedding changes or he will start to smell. His urine is very sweet smelling but the positive is that he has gained all the weight he had first lost. He isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allowed any treats other than things I can confirm have no sugar in, but he is fussy so what I can give him he wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat. However, he is still our little fighter, and I believe we can get through this together.

Issue 03 September 2013

Bilbo - Linford

Annie – Kissa

Suki – Azula

Charlie – Linford

Annie -September

Issue 03 September 2013

Daisy - Char

Citrus - Susie

Timi - Penanna

Aspen - Susie

Cream banded LH Syrian Baby Boy - Astakatrin 37

Issue 03 September 2013

This issue’s Star Photo is of Pixel, sent to us by their owner Hayley from York! Thank you Hayley! Check back next issue for more of the glorious Hamster gallery; Issue 05’s theme will be “The Christmas Hamster!” To submit your festive furry friend, please check page 39 for submission details! 38

Issue 03 September 2013

The Hamster Mag staff are looking for volunteers to write articles! How-to and DIY articles, health and physiology articles, diary-style articles, short stories, informative articles that cover topics such as hamster cages, food and accessories and many more! We’re always on the look out for high-quality images of hamsters to feature in future The Hamster Mag. ALL breeds are accepted for submissions; if it’s a Hamster and you have a high quality image of it, we want to hear from you! We’re particularly low on Dwarf Hamster images. We’re currently rummaging in every nook and cranny for images the Hamster Gallery! Issue 05’s theme will be “The Christmas Hamster!” So if you’ve got an image of your furry friend being festive, we’d love to see! Do you have an article ready for us to publish? Would you like to write an article for us but aren’t sure about a topic? No problem! Pop over to our website or send us an email at bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com with “Ham Mag” as the subject and we’ll give you some suggestions! PLEASE NOTE. All articles, images and content you send to us MUST be of your creation, or you must obtain the express permission of the original creator to use them. The Hamster Mag will not feature anything that is stolen.

Issue 03 September 2013

All names given herein are a mixture of real names and forum pseudonyms dependent on the Staff Contributors preference. If you wish to know more about the team and meet them, pop over to our website; http://thehamstermag.webs.com or just send us an e-mail!

The Staff The dedicated few who are committed to working on every issue of The Hamster Mag!

Linford27

Laura Jacques

LeedsGurl

The head honcho of The Hamster Mag. Chief Editor Linford27 is a South-West-England dweller who is a long established member of Hamster Central. She and her new baby Syrian Bilbo keep everyone working on The Hamster Mag in check as well as being lovely to boot!

This North-West-England dweller is the proud owner of Syrian hamster Timi. Laura, known as “Penn” on Hamster Central, is an editor and writer for The Hamster Mag’s. She’s also the content and graphics editor; organising the pages and design of the magazine when her sleeping pattern isn’t matching Timi’s!

The owner and photographer of The Hamster Mag's first two cover models, who designs the layout of The Hamster Mag’s front covers. She is a hobbyist breeder of Syrians and has kept hamsters on and off for the past 20 years. She loves to design and create, and is also a signature artist on a couple of popular hamster forums.

The Contributors The contributors who we thank for being AMAZING and being part of The Hamster Mag. We can’t praise or thank them enough! Astakatrin of flickr, Cactus, Callie Hodges, Charlie B, GhostsInSnow, hikaru, isold, Kiah Tulloch, Kissa, Laura Jacques, Leedsgurl, Linford, Rhonda Stewart, Stephanie Reesor and Susie.

On the cover Name: Teddy Owner: LeedsGurl’s Mum Species: Syrian Colour: Long haired Dove Born : 06/11/2011

Named after: The grey ‘tatty teddies’ – he looks just like them! Brothers and sisters: Was the only dove baby from the ‘Dexpops’ litter. The rest were cinnamon. Fun fact: Was given by LeedsGurl to her mum for Christmas.

IMPORTANT NOTICE The Hamster Mag exists for the purpose of providing support and information to anyone caring for or owning a hamster. The Hamster Mag is written by a team of volunteers who share a love of hamsters, many of whom are not vets/medically qualified. You are strongly advised to consult your vet if you are concerned about your hamster's health or wellbeing. All advice in this magazine is widely used by our writers, but makes no guarantees and does not substitute for veterinary expertise. 41