Art of parfumery

Page 1

The art ofperfumery and

method of obtaining the odors ... George William Septimus Piesse


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N

«&» OF

PERFUMERY, AND METHOD OF OBTAtNlHO

THE ODORS OF PLANTS.

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DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS. From

the raAers of the roof of the Drying

bunches

all

up with

large cupboards,

ing flue, heated from a

The wide.

and other

which are

fire

petals, the

slightly

rack, being not less than

When till

To

in

accelerate the

Drying House

warmed with a

is fitted

convolv-

below.

flower buds are placed upon trays

upon a frame boards

House are suspended

the herbs that the grower cultivates.

desiccation of rose leaves

made

twelve

of canvas stretched

feet long

charged they are placed on shelves in the

by four

feet

warm

cup-

dry.

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AND METHOD OF OBTAINING

THE ODORS OF PLANTS, INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR TnE HANDKERCHIEF, SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, C08METIQUES, PERFUMED SOAP, ETO. i.

>'

<

WITH AN APPENDIX

..

*

ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT

ESSENCES, ETC. ETO.

BY

G.

W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE,

PHILADELPHIA:

LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. 1857

.

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PRINTED BY 19

0.

SHERMAN A

Su James

SON,

Street.

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f*

preface.

By

man

universal consent, the physical faculties of

have been divided into

senses,

five

touching, tasting, and smelling.

—

seeing, hearing,

It is of

matter per-

taining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly

Of

treats.

the five senses, that of smelling

valued, and, as a consequence,

we must not conclude from

is

is

the least ;

hut

our own act, that

it i3

the least tutored

this,

of insignificant importance to our welfare and happiness.

By

neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve,

constantly led to breathe impure

air,

we

are

and thus poison

the body by neglecting* the warning given at the gate of the lungs.

Persons who use perfumes are more sensi-

tive to the presence of a vitiated

who

atmosphere than those

consider the faculty of smelling as an almost use-

less gift.

In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes

was

in constant practice,

and

it

had the high sanction

of Scriptural authority.

The patrons of perfumery have always been

consi-

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PREFACE.

X

dercd the most civilized and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing faculties

how

how

enjoy the

to

which we possess, then must we learn not only

to distinguish the

harmony of

color

and form,

in

order to please the sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear

;

the comfort of appropriate fabrics to

cover the body, and to please the touch, but the smell-

ing faculty must be sjiowu

how

to gratify itself with the

odoriferous products of the garden and the forest.

Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes

the highest degree prophylactic ties of the citrine odors to

;

is in

the refreshing quali-

an invalid

well khown.

is

Health has often been restored when

and death

life

trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of cedrat in a sick chamber.

The commercial valde of

flowers

portance to the wealth of nations.

of no

is

mean im-

But, vast as

is

the

consumption of perfumes by the people under the rule of the British Empire,

little

has been done in England

towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw odorous substances in the manufacturing perfumers of Britain

;

demand by

consequently

nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries.

However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the attention of the Society of Arts,

favorable results will doubtless follow.

waste land

in

England, and especially

Much

and

of the

in Ireland^ could

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PREFACE. be very profitably employed

.if

XI

cultivated with odor-

bearing plants.

The climate fits

them

of some of the British colonies especially

for the production of odors

from flowers that

require elevated temperature to bring them to perfection.

But

Mr. Charles Pi esse,*

for the lamented death of

Colonial Secretary for Western Australia, I have every

reason to believe that flower-farms would have been established in that. colony long ere the publication of this

thus personallyTrusteed in adapt-

Though

work.

ing a

new and

useful description of labor to British

am no

enterprise, I

less

sanguine of the

final result in

other hands.

Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent land some

fine

from which

it

samples of Oil of Behn. is

vated by him.

odorous fat

oil,

odors of flowers

At no

to

produced, has been successfully

The is

Oil of

Eng-

The Moringa, culti-

Behn, being a perfectly

in-

a valuable agent for extracting the

by the maceration

process.

distant period I hope to see, either at the

Crystal Palace,

Sydenham,

at

the

Royal

Botanical

Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to illustrate the

commercial use of flowers

—

eye-lectures on the methods

of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses.

• Brother of the Author.


PREFACE.

xii

The

horticulturists of

England, being generally unac-

quainted with the methods of economizing the scents

from the flowers they

cultivate, entirely lose-

be a very profitable source of income, copper ore was thrown over the

cliffs

x

what would

For many ages

into the sea

Cornish miners working the tin streams

by the

how much

;

wealth was thus cast away by ignorance we know not r but there

is

a perfect parallel between the old miners

and the modern gardeners.

Many

readers of the “ Gardeners’ Chronicle” and of

the “ Annals of

Pharmacy and Chemistry*’

nize in the following pages

much matter

will recog-

that has

-al-

ready passed under their eyes.

To be of

the service intended, such matter must how-

ever have a book form

;

I have therefore collected from

the above-mentioned periodicals

all

that I considered

might be useful to the reader.

To

Sir

Wm.

Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr.

W.

Dickinson,

and Mr. W. Bastick, I respectfully tender

my -thanks

for the assistance they have so freely given

whenever I

have had occasion

to seek their advice.

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,i

.

Contents*

Page

Preface,

<•

.

.

»

.

.

.

.

.

*•

9-12

* *

*

SECTION

J.

INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. Perfumes in the

from the Earliest Periods Origin lost Depth of its Antiquity Possibly derived from

in use

Religious Observances

— —Incense

or

Frankincense

—Early Christians Use of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans— Pliny burned in Honor of the Divinities

put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols

and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious

—Use —Scriptural Au—Composition the Holy Perfume— The Prophet’s Simile—St.Ephraem's Will —Fragrant Tapers—Constantine provides grant Oil the Altars — Fraugipanni burn Trade the East in Perfume Drugs — The Art of Perfumery of England— Distinction Horadmirable Remarks on Trade Secrets —

People scent themselves Three Times a Day of Incense in the Romish Church * .

thority for the use of

Perfume

of

fra-

to

at

in

in

Solly’s

ticulturists neglect to collect the

Fragrance of the

little

British

,

—The South

Flowers they cultivate

of France the

—England noted

principal Seat of the Art

for

Laven-

'

2

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CONTENTS.

XIV der

—Some

Plants yield more than one Perfli me

Odor of Plants owing

to a peculiar Principle

known 25-32

as Essential Oil or Otto,

S E CTI ON

II.

Consumption of Perfumery Methods of obtaining the Odors Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Ab:

sorption,

.

SECTION Steam-Still

—Macerating

Pan

spice,

Almond,

III.

—Ottos

Crystal Palace of 1851 Artificial

33-39

«

exhibited

at the

AllSimple Extracts Otto of Almonds, Anise,

Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove,

Eglantine or Sweet

l)ill,

Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag,

Geranium, Heliotrope,

Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia,

Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Nfiroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum,

'

'

'

-

Orange,

Orris,

Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory

of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields

two Odors), Rosemary,

Sage,

Santal,

Sassafras,

Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, VolkaDuty on Essential meria, Wallflower, Winter-green 40-114 Statistics, Ac., . Oils Quantity imported

Spike, Storax, Syringa, Vanilla,

SECTION

IV.

ANIMAL PERFUMES. *

Ambergris—Civet-—Mask,

.

.

*

.

.

114-123

A

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XV

CONTENTS,

SECTION Smelling Salts

:

Y.

—Ammonia, Preston

Salta, Inexhausti-

ble Salts, Eaa de Luce, Sal Volatile, . . 124^12G Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery. Aromatic Vinegar, Henry’s Vinegar, Vinaigre a la Rose, Four

Thieves’ Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vino-

gar, Toilet Vinegar, •

Vi naigr a de Cologne,

127—131

.

*

SECTION '

VI.

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.

Proposed Use of the Term “Otto" to denote the odori ferous Principle of Plants,

....

.

132-134

—The Alhambra Perfume—The Bos—Bouquet d’Amour—Bouquet deg Fleurs du Vald’Andorre— Buckingham Palace Bouquet— Delices — The Court Nosegay—Claude Chypre —The Empress Eugenie’s Nosegay—Esterhazy Ess Bouquet— Eau de Cologne. (French and Eng Flowers of Erin — Royal Hunt Bouquet —Extract of Flowers—The Guards’ Bouquet NoSegay— English Jockey Club—French

Compound Odors:

phorus Bouquet

,

-

lish Spirit.)

Italian '

Jockey Club.

Odor of English

(Difference. of the

and French Perfumes due to the and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese

Spirit of

Grape

Perfume—The —Millefleurs Lavender— Deleroix’a Lavender— Marecbale —Monaselaine— Boucjuet de Montpellier— Caprice de la Mode— May Flowers —Neptune, or Naval NosegayNations — of Wight Bouquet Bouquet of —rEouquet dn Roi— Bouquet de Reine Victoria —Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal —Suave—Spring Flowers — Tulip Nosegay —The Wood Violet—Wind135-154 sor Castle Bouquet— Yacht Club Nosegay,

Kew Garden Nosegay—-Millefleurs

all

efc

Isle

la

.

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CONTENTS.

XVI

SECTION VIL

— — — Frangi panne ders —Sachet au Chypre — Sachet a Heliotrope Sachet— Lavender Sachet— Sachet a ur—^Portugal Sa Marechale^Mousselatne — chet— Patchouly Sachet—Pot Pourri— Olla Podrida —-Rose Sachet— Santal-wood Sachet— Sachet —Violet out a name) —Vervain Sachet — Sachet— Perfumed Leather —Russia Leather— Peau d’Espagne — Perfumed Letter Paper-— Perfumed 155-164 Book-markers — and Museum — The Censer— Vase the Akar SerMethod of using the Censer— Incense —Yellow — —Perfu — mer*s —Fumigation —The Perfume Lamp—Incandescent Platinum —Eau & Bruler— Eau pour Bruler— Fumigating Paper— Per164-174 fuming —Odoriferous Lighters,

The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums Abstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation The Vase at Alnwick Castle Sachet Powla

,

la

Millefle

--.

(with,

Vitivert

Printaniers,

Cassolettes,

Pastils

.

British

in

for

vice

Dr.

Pastils

Paris’s

-

Pastils

Pastils

Piessc’s

Pastils

-

Spills

.

SECTION PERFUMED

VIII.

.

_

SOAP.'

Perfumed Soap Ancient Origin of Soap Early Records of the Soap Trade in England Perfumers not Soap Makers Remelting Primary Soaps Curd Soap Oil Soap Castile Soap Marine Soap Yellow Soap Palm Soap Excise Duty on Soap Fig Soft Soap Naples Soft Soap The remelting Process Soap cutting Soap stamping Scented Soaps, 175-182 Almond Soap Camphor Soap Honey Soap White Windsor Soap Brown Windsor Soap Sand Soap Fuller's Earth Soap Scenting Soaps Hot Scent-

— — —

— —

— — —

— — — —

*

.

— —Colored Soaps —Red, Green, Blue,

ing Soaps Cold

:

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— —

XVU

CONTENTS.

—Otto of Rose Soap—Tonquin Musk Soap— Orange-Flower Soap—Santal-wood Soap Spermaceti Soap—Citron Soap— Frangipanne Soap —Patchouly Soap— Potash Soaps—Saponaceous Cream qi Almonds — Soap Powders — Rypopkagon Soap—.Ambrosial Cream—Transparent Soap— Transparent hard Soap-^-Medicated Soaps Juniper Tar Soap— Iodine Soap— Sulphur Soap Bromine Soap— Creosote Soap—Mercurial Croton Oil Soap—Their Use Cutaneous DisBrown Soaps

Soft* or.

soft

Sjoap

in

eases,-.

.

.

.

,

.

v

.

SECTION

:

183-194

IX.

EMtJLSHTES.

. •

Form Emulsions Prone

.

r

or Milks

Change

to

when mired with Water

—Amandine—Olivine— Honey and

Almond Paste—Pure Almond Paste—Almond Meal Pistachio- Nut Meal J asmine Emulsion V ole t

i

Emulsion,

.

.

.

.

.

,

195—200

SECTION X. S .

*

*

WILKS OB EMULSIONS.

-

Liebig's notice of

Almond Milk

—Milk

Milk of

of

Roses—Milk

—Milk of Elder— of Dandelion of Cucumber— Milk of Nuts—Lait Virginal — Extract of Elder

of Almonds •

--Milk

Cucumber— Essence

Pistachio

Flowers,

.

.

.

201-205

'

SECTION XL COLD CREAM. Manipulation

Cream

—Cold

— —

Cream of Almonds Violet Cold Imitation Violet Cold Cream Cold Cream of 2*

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CONTENTS,

XV111

various Flowcrt

Cold

— Camphor Cold Cream —Cucumber

—Pomade —Camphor Balls—Camphor

Cream— Piver’s Pomadcof Cucumber

Divine Paste

—Almond

— Glycerine

Balls

Balsam

—Gommon Lip

Lip Salve

—White

— Rosa, Salve,

*

Lip Salve

...

.

.*

.

206-213

*

/

* .

SECTION’ XII. •

rOMADES AND

Pomatum,

as

its

name

t

OILB.

implies, originally

Apples^—Scentless Grease

— Enfleurage

made

with

and Mace-

—Acacia, Pomade—Benzoin —Vanilla and Pomade— Pomade Grease—Circassian Cream— of Flowers — Oik —Castor Pomatum Balsam-of Neroli — Marrow Cream — Marrow Poma tum— Pomatum — Pomade Double, Heliotrope— Huilo Antique— —Pomade come—Pomade Hongroisp— Hard Poma 214-225 tums—Black and brown Cosmetique, ration process

of Cassie

Potnade-and Oil

Qil

‘•Balsam

callcd-ltear’s

Crystallized

Oil

-

Violet

Millefleurs

a la

Philo-

or Stick .

.

SECTION

t

-

.

XIII.

BAIR DYES AND DEPI LATORIES.

among the Women of Egypt Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by

Painting the Face universal

Kolihl, the

the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets

— Turkish Hair 'Dye—Rastikopetra Dye —Litharge Dye—Silver Dye—Hair Dyes, with Mordant— Inodorous Dye— Brown and Black Hair Dye —Liquid Lead Dye—Depilatory, Rusma, 226-233 of the

Eye

*

.

.

SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS. Violet

Powder—Rose Fqce Powder

—Perle

Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use

Powder

— Calcined Talc—

-

,

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CONTENTS.

Rouge and Red Paints Bloom of Roses Carmine Toilet Rouge Carthainus Flowers Pink Saucers

.

Grepon Rouge,

234-238

>

SECTION XV.

-

TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.

MialhiV Tooth Powder—t-Camphorated Chalk Quinine Tooth Powder Prepared Charcoal Peruvian Bark Powder Homoeopathic Chalk Cuttle-Fish Powder •—-Borax and Myrrh Farina Piesse’s Dentifrice Rose Tooth Powder Opiate Pastg Violet Mouth

Wash

—E&u

— — — —Botanic Styptic—Tincture of Borax —Myrrh with Eau de Cologne

*

Botot

Myrrh and Camphorated Eau de Cologne,

SECTI ON ,

..

.

.

.

239-244

X VI,

HAIR WASHES,

Rosemary Hair Wash Athenian Water Vegetable or Botanic Hair Wash Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary Saponaceous Wash Egg Julep 245-248 Bandolines Rose and Almond Bandoline,

.

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I

I

Contents of ^pptnbi*.

t %

Pnge.

Manhfactnre of Glycerine,

.

.

Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils,

-

Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in

Oliva Oil,

«

.

Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil, I’lower Waters of

Concentrated Elder Water,

Spirits of Wine, Purification of Spirits by Filtration, Cobb on Otto of Lemons, Bastick on Benzpic Acid,

255 •

.

On

the Natural Fats,

a

.

263

*

«

.

Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness, Bastick on Fusel Oil,

Wagner’s Essence of Quince,

277

.

• w

284 285

a

*

281

,

Bastick’s Pine Apple Flavor,

274 •275

275

#

.

Commercial Value of Soap, .

260 267

.

.

Manufacture of Soap, to Ascertain the

'

.

256 259

Chemical Examination of Naples Soap,

How

.

the Coloring matters of Flowers,

Bleaching Bees’ Wax,

256

.

.

On

254 255

Commerce,

.

Arnall on

252 253

Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon,

The Orange

249 251

0

Almond and

> .

Coloring matter of Volatile Oils, Artificial

*

l

286

283

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xxu

CONTENTS OF APPENDIX.

Preparation of Ruin-ether, Artificial Fruit essences,

.

.

L

Volatile Oil of Gaultheria,

.

L

289

J

291

289

.

.

Application of Chemistry to Perfumery,

293

.

Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts, Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants,

293 303

.

French and English Weights and Measures compared,

.

304

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Illustrations.

Pape

Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.)

/

Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.) Pipette, to

draw

Tap Funnel from

off small Portions of Otto

..... ... .....

for separating'Ottos

Oil,

The Almond,

.

.

Vkivert,

• • •

.

.

.

.... .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Musk Pod, Musk Deer,

,

. .

.

.

.

.

..... ..

.

*

The Censer, Perfume Lamp, Slab Soap Gauge,

.

.

.

.

48 50 66

78 83

101

96 103 •

109

117 120

.

.

43

• •

(

.

.

Civet Cat,

T

.55

.......

Vanilla,

37

*

*.

The Clove, The Jasmine, . The Orange, . * The Patchouly Plant, San tal- Wood, Tonquin,

from Waters, and Spirits

.

.

3G •

.

Stvrax Beifeoin, Cassie Buds,

from Water,

.

.... ....

121

• •

166 171

S

18)

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ILLUSTRATIONS.

XXIV Barring Gauge,

Squaring Gauged

Soap Scoops, Soap Press, Moulds,

•

.

180 .

181 181

182 .

182

Soap Plane,

187

Oil Runner)

196

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THE

ART OF PERFUMERY.

•INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.

SECTION

I. *

. *

* •

“ By Nature’s swift and secret working hand The garden glows, and fills the liberal air

With

-

layistwodors.

There

let

me draw-

Ethereal soul, there driitk reviving gales, ‘

.

Profusely breathing from the spig} groves

And

-

Among

-

*

vales of fragrance.’.'— Thomson. 1

t^e numerous gratifications derived from

the cultivation of flowers, -that of rearing them for

the sake of their perfumes stands pre-eminent.

It

is

proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have

The

been in use from the earliest periods. this, like

of

its-

that of

antiquity

;

many

religious observances.

quity,

an

other .arts,

though

offering of

it

had

Among-

is lost

its rise,

origin of

in the

depth

no doubt, in

the nations of anti-

perfumes was regarded as a

token of the most profound respect and homage. cense, or Frankincense, which exudes

by

incision

In-

and

3

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26

ART OF PERFUMERY.

TITE

dries as a

burnt

gum, from Arbor-thurifera , was formerly

in the

temples of

divinities that

all

religions, in

were there adored.

tive Christians

were put

not offer jncense to

to

the primi-

death because they would

idols. *

“Of

honor of the

Many of

%

tbc use of these luxuries bj the Greeks,

and afterwards

by the Romans, Pliny an<F Seneca gives much information

re-

specting perfume drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they sold.

mast lavishly used,

Oils

and powder perfumery were

even three times a day did some

for

of-

the

luxurious people anoint and scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to the baths in costly and elegant

boxes called Nakthecia.” %

In the Romish Church incesse

is

used in

many

ceremonies, and particularly at the solemn funerals

erf

the hierarchy, and other personages of ^j^alted rank.

Pliny makes a note of the troe from which frankincense

is

prbcui^,

and. certain passages in his

works

indicate that dried flowers were used in his time

way

by

of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed

with Bpices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls pot-pourri,

used for scenting apartments, and

m

some otnamcntal Vase. was not uncommon Among the Egyptian ladies to carry about the person a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the case to the present day among the Chinese, and to wear beads made of scented wood. The “ bdellium” mentioned by Moses in generally placed It

Genesis js a perfuming gum, resembling frankincense, if

not identical with

it.

Several passages in Exodus prove the use of per«a

'

.

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HISTORY.

27

fumes at a very early period among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the Lord said “ 1. And thou shalt make an altar to

unto Moses

:

bnrn incense upon ; of Shittim wood shalt thou make “ 7. And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense it.”. every morning; when he dress'eth^lhe lamps he shall

burn incense upon spices,' stacte,

“ 34. Take unto thee sweet

'

it.”

and onychaj and galbanum

spices with pure frankincense

w 35.

a like weight.”

;

these sweet

of each shall there be

:

And

thou,

shalt

make

it

a

perfume, a cohfection after the art of the apothecary,

tempered together pure and shalt beat -the

some of

testimony

where I

.will

in.

it

“ 36.

holy.’’

And

thou

very small, and put of .it before

tKe tabernacle of the congregation,

meet with thee

it

;

shall,

be unto you

“ 37. And as for the perfume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according to the composition thereof ; it shall be unto

most holy.”

thee holy for

make

like

Lord.”

the

38.

It

shall

%

0

^

Whosoever

unto that to smell thereto, shall even be

cut off from his people.’* •

.

A

*

was from

.

.

.

this religious

custom, of employing incense in

the ancient temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile of his,

when he

petilioped that his prayers

before the Lord like incense,

Luke

1’:

10.

It

might ascend

was while

all

the

multitude was praying without, at the houi-of incense, that there

appeared to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the right

That the nations attached a meaning not only ofpersopal reverence, but also of religious homage, side of the altar of ihcense.

to

an offering of incense,

is

the Magi, who, having fallen

and recognized

demonstrable from, the instance of

down

to adore the. new-born Jesus,

his Divinity, presented

Him

with gold, myrrh

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

28

and frankincense. The primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted the use of incense at the celebration of the .Liturgy.

St.

Ephrtem, a father of the Syriac Church,

directed in his will that no aromatic

stowed upon him

be given

at his funeral,

to the sanctuary.

churches

is

perpetual,

-The use of incense

and almost daily

ever celebrate their LituVgy .without necessity.

observe the

-

perfumes 'should be be-

but that the spices should rather

it,

;

in all the Oriental

nor-

do any of them

unless

compelled by

The Coptic, as well as other Ehstdrn Christians, same ceremonial as the Latin Church in incensing

their altar, the sacred vessels,

and

ecclesiastical personages.’’

Da. Rock’s Hwnirgia.

Perfumes were used

the Church service, not

in

only under the form of incense, but also mixed

in.

the

and wax for the lamps and lights commanded to The brilliancy he burned in the house of .the Lord. and fragrance which were often shed around a

oil

martyr’s sepulchre, at the celebration of his

festival,-

by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with aromatics, hdve been noticed by St. Paulinus “

With crowded^ lamps are these bright altars crowded, And waxen tapers, shedding perfume roundFrom fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray, To gladden night, and joy e’en radiant day.” -

%

_

.Da- Rock’s Hicrurgia.

Constantinb the Great provided fragrant

oils,

to

be burned at the'altacs-Qf the greater tjhurehes in

Home

and

;

St. Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of the

and beginning of the

of the fourth

us how, in his times,

wax

fifth

tapers were

century, tells

made

for

use, so as to shed fragrance as they -burned \ .

end

church

:

%

“ Lumitia cerates adolentur odora papyris.”

«

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— s

29

HISTORY^

A

perfume

in

common

use, even to this

invention of one of the earliest of the

named Frangipani, apd

still.

day was the

Roman

nobles,

name; every known

bears hi?

powder, op sachet, composed of in equal proportions, to which

it is

added ground

is

a

spice, iris

or orris root, in weight equal to the- whole* with one

A

per cent, of musk or civet.

name, invented by is

also in

prepared by digesting the

use,

Frangipane powder

same

grandstm Mercutio Frangipani,

his

common

liquid of the

in rectified spirits,

out the fragrant principles.

which dissolves

This has the merit of

being the most lasting perfume made. “ The trade

for the

vessel to spread

East in perfume-drUgs caused many a

its sails

to the

plod over that tract which gave portance as markets, and

Reef Sea,- ftnd many a camel to to.

Greece and Syria

yitality to the

Southern Italy was not long ere

it

their im-

rocky city of Petra.

occupied

itself in

ministering

to the luxury of the wealthy, by manufacturing seethed unguents

and perfumes.

So numerous were the UngUentarii, or

fumers, that they are said to have

Hofmann.

Capua.”

As an

art, "in

England, perfumery has attained

or no distinction.

who

follow

as

per-

the great Street of ancient •

little

it

filled

;

This has arisen from those

a. trade, 'maintaining

secrecy about their processes.

No

a mysterious

-manufacture can

ever become great or inlpoftant to the community that

is

“On

carried on under a veil-of mystery. the subject; of trade- mystery I will only observe, that I

arn convinced that facturers others,

if

and

their craft.

it

would be

far

more

to the Interest of

manu-

they were more willing to profit by the experience of less fearful It is

and jealous of -the supposed

a 'great mistake to think that

secrets of

-a successful

3*

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P

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

30 manufacturer

one who has carefully preserved

is

his trade, or that peculiar

cesses

unknown

in

modes of

.the secrets of

effecting simple things, pro-

other factories, and mysteries beyond the

comprehension of the vulgar, are

in

any wtiy essential

a manufacturer, or to.success as a trader.”

to skill as

kofesso'k Solly.

If the horticulturists of England were instructed

how

new branch

to collect the odors of flowers, a

of

manufacture would spring up to vie with our neighbors’ skill in

Of our

across the Channel.

it

that of

senses,

five

Spelling has been

treated with comparative indifference.

knowledge progresses, the various

Smelling will

and

*Taste.

Flowers yield perfumes in

but those

all climates,

growing in the warmer latitudes are most odor,

sweetest.

of tho

while

those

delightful fragrance ;

prolific

from the colder

Hooker, in his travels

valley of Skardsheidi violets,

to

become developed, and the faculty of meet with its share of tuition as well as

will

Sight, Hearing, Touch,

their

which

has thought proper in bis wisdom

the Creator

endow man

However, as

faculties with

are

in .Iceland,

of the flowers

we know

m

the

speaks in

the

that winter-green,

and primroses are found here, and the wild Mr. Louis Piessc, in

thyme, in great abundande.

company with Captain

Sturt,

exploring

regions of South Australia, writes

clothed the earth with

Shropshire as

sweet

meadow as

an

in

-a

it

The

the

wild

rains have

green as beautiful as a

May, and with

English

anemone resembles

:

'

violet

in scent.

the

flowers, too,

pure white

The Yellow Wattle,

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.

WHERE ODORS when

31

RESIDE.

and emits a most fragrant

in flower, is splendid,

odor.”

Though many East

the

South of Europe of the art

Mexico,

Ceylon,

Indies,.

is

the only real garden of utility

Grasse and Nice are the principal

to the perfumer. sfi^ts

from their geographical

;

has at pommand -that change to bring to perfection •

On

position,

comparatively short distances,

the grower, within

trade.

come from and Peru, the

of the finest perfumes

of-

climate best fitted

required for his

the plants

the seacoast his Cassise grows without

fear of frost, one night of which

the plants for a season his violets are

j

would destroy

all

while, .nearer the

Alps,

grown

in the

found sweeter than

if

warmer

situations, where the orange .tree and mignioEngland can claim the nette bloom to perfection. superiority in the growth of lavender and pepper^

mint

;

grown

the essential

oils

extracted from these plants

at Mitcham, in Surrey, realize. eight times the

price in the market of those produced in France or

elsewhere, and are fully worth the difference for deli-

cacy of odor,

The odors

of plants reside in different

them, sometimes in the vert

;

roots,* as in the iris

parts of

and

the stem or wood, in cedar and sandal

leaves, in mint, patchouly,

in the roses

and

violets

bean and caraway

Some

;

and

;

;

viti-

the

the flower,

the seeds in the Tonquin

the bark, in oinhamon, &c.

plants yield

quite distinct

;

and thyme

more than one odor, which are The orange tree, from the leaves one called

characteristic.

for instance, gives three

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32

TI1E

petit

grain

;

ART OF PERFUMERY.

from' the flowers

we procure

neroli

;

and

from the rind of the

fruit, essential oil

essence of Portugal.

.On this account, perhaps,* this

of orange^ •

tree is the most valuable of all to the -operative per-

fumer.

The fragrance all cases, to

in

is

oil,

owing, in nearly either contained

small vessels, or sacs within them, or generated

from time som. as.

or odor of plants

a perfectly volatile

tt>

time, during their

Some few

life,

as

when

in blos-

exude, by incision, odoriferous gums,

benzoin, elibanum, myrrh, &C-; Others give,

by

the same act, what are called balssAns, which appeal to be mixtures of an odorous oil

gum.

Some

of -these balsams are procured in

country to which the plant it

in

is

,

and an inodorous tlfb

indigenous by boiling

water for a time, straining, and then boiling

again, or evaporating

sistency -of treacle.

it

down

till it

assumes

In this latter way

is.

tile

con-

balsam of

Peru procured from the Myroxylon peruiferUm, and the balsam of Tolu from the Myroxylon tol'uiferum.

Though

their odors are agreeable; they are not

much

applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by

some- they are mixed with soapj and In England- they are valued more for their medicinal properties than for their fragrance.*

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33

CONSUMPTION.

SECTION

II.

M VVere not sumnver-s distillations left A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass,

#

*

.

Beauiy's effect with beauty were bereft,

Nor

it,

nor no remembrance what

it

was

:

lBut flowers distilled, though they with winter meet.

Lqese hut

their

show,

their

substance

lives sweet.”

still

s .

The

•»

Shakspeark. -

#

exter^ive flower farms in the neighborhood of

Nice, Grasse, Montpellier, and Cannes, in France,

(Turkey

at Adrianople

in

Asia),

at

Broussa and

Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a measure indicate the commercial impor-

tance of that branch .of chemistry, called perfumery. British- India

and Europe consume annually, at

the very lowest -estimate, 150,000. gallons of per-

fumed

spirits,

under various

titles,*

such as eau de

Cologne, essence, of lavender,- esprit de rose, &c. •

The

art

of perfumery' dcrCs

itself to the

chief

not, however, confine

production of scents for' the handker-

and bath, but extends to imparting -odor

odorous, bodies, such as soap,

which are consumed at the

oil,

starch,

to in-

and grease,

toilette of fashion.

idea of the commercial importance of this art

Some

may

be formed, tvhen we state that one of the large per-

fumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs.

of orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers,

54,000

lbs.

of rose-leaves, 32,000 lb». of jasmine

blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets, 20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, 'besides rosemary, mint,

lemon, citrqn, thyme, and other odorous plants in

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34

ART OF PERFUMERY.

TIIE

In fa?t, khe quantity of odorifer-

large proportion.

ous substances used in this way

is

Jar beyond the con-

ception of those even used to abstract statistics.

the qhemical philosopher, the study of per-

To

fumery opens a book'as yet unread

;

for the practical

perfumer, on his laboratory shelves, exhibits rare Essential

oils, such,

of the Acacia

many

ns essential oH of the. flower

famesiana

essential oil of violets,

,

tubereuse, jasmine, and others, .the compositions of

which have yet

The

to.

'

be determined.

exquisite pleasure derive^ from smelling fra-

grant flowers would almost instinctively induce'

man

to attempt to separate the- odoriferous principle

from

them, so as to have the perfume when the season

Tims we

denies the flowers.

find the alchemists of %

old, torturing, the plants

in

tion could devise for -this

ond

"

every way their inven;

and

it

is

on their exi

periinents that the whole art of perfumery has been

reared.

may

"Without recapitulating those facts which

be found

diffused .through

authors on medical

and works of

celsus to Celnarf,

nearly

botany, chemistry,

this character,

we may

all

the old

pharmacy,

from the time of Para-

state at once the

mode of

operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the

present day for preparing the various extracts or essences, waters^

oils,

pomades, &c., used in

his call-

ing-

The pfocesses tions

;

viz.

—

are divided into four distinct opera•

*

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Googli


EXPRESSION

1.

Expression '

2. Distillation ;

;

3.

35

Maceration

'4. Absorption.

Expression

1.

very

—DISTILLATION.

is

only 'adopted' where the plant or essential

prolific in its volatile

odor; such, for instance, as

oil,

i.

found in -the

is

e.

is

its

pellicle

or outer peel of the orange, lemon, and citron, and

In these cases, the parts of the plant

a few others.

containing ’the odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth hag, and at others by themselves

a press, apd by mere mechanical force it is The press is an iron Vessel of immense strength, varying in size from six inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain ope hundred weight or more it has a small aperture

into

squeezed out.

;

at the bottom to allow the expressed material -to run :

for collection false bottom, is

;

and on

covered

placed,

interior

;

in the interior is placed a perforated this the substance to

an

frith

iron

plate

be squeezed fitting

the

connected with a ppwerful screw,

this is

which, being turned, forces the substance so closely together,

that the little

sential oils are

common

burst,

tincture press

ah instrument.

The

vessels

and" is

t>ils

it

containing the es-

thus

escapes.

The

indeed a model of such

which are thhs collected

are contaminated with ‘watery extracts, which exudes at the

rated

ing in

;

same time, and /rom which it has to be sepathis it does by itself in a measure, by standa quiet place, and it is then poured off and

strained.

*

*

2. Distillation.

— The

.plant,

or part of

it,

which

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— THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

36 contains the

odoriferous principle,

placed in an

is

from that

iron, copper, or glass pan, varying to size

capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, and

covered with water is

;

pan a dome-shaped

to the

terminating with a pipe, which

fitted,

is

lid

twisted

corkscrew fashion, and fixed in a bucket, with the

end peeping out

like

in the still—*-for *such

Pipette to

draw

ofl

a

tiy)

is

the

The water

in a barrel.

name

of the apparatus

small portions of otto from

^ter. *

,

made

the Bteam must pass through the coiled pipe which, being surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses is

to boil

and having no other

;

.exit,

;

the vapor before

it

liquefied at the

With the and is

can aryfve at the tap.

steam, the volatile oik—*,

same

time.

e.

perfume

The

rises,

liquids

which thus

run over, on standing for a time, separate into two portions,

and are

finally divided with a funnel

a stopcock in the narrow part of

it.

By

having

this

pro-

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MACERATION.

37

majority of the volatile or essential

cess, the

oils

procured.

In some few instances alcohol— i.

tified spirit

of

Top

.

wine—is

rec-

placed upon the odorous ma-

funnel for separating ottos from water

*

aiTfl

spirits

from

oil.

«

.

terials in lieu of

e.

are

water, which, on being

distilled,

comes away with the perfuming substance dissolved in

But

it.

this process is

now

nearly obsolete, as

found mqre beneficial to draw the

it 'is

spirit.

The low

or essence it

in the

tem'perature at which spirit boils,

compared with water, causes a great oil,

oil

with water, and afterwards to dissolve

first

loss of essential

the heat not being sufficient to disengage

it

from

the plant, especially where seeds, such as cloves or

caraway are employed.

It

so happens, -however,

that the finest odors, the recherche , as the Parisians

method ; then rehad to the next process. 3. Maceration Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the loast understood in Engsay, cannot be procured

course

;

this

is

.

land

by

as this operation yields not only the most ex-


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

38

quisite essences indirectly, but also nearly all those

pomades known here much admired for the

as “

fine

so

French

gether with operation

oils”

:

—For

what

is

.to-

The

equally perfumed.

conducted thus

is

French pomatums,”

strength of fragrance,

called

pomade, a certain quantity of purified mutton or deer suet

put into a clean metal or porcelain pan,* this

is

being melted by a steam heat

the kind of flowers

;

required for the odor wanted are carefully picked

and put into the liquid fat, ajid allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours ; the fat has a particular affinity

or attraction for the

and thus, as

were, draws

comes is

itself,

it

by

it

oil

of flowers,

out of them,- and be-

their aid, highly

perfumed

;

the fat

strained from the s^ent flowers, and fresh are- added

four or

times over,

fiv.e

till

the

pomade

is

of the re-

quired strength ; these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French makers as .Nos.

6, .12,

18,

and 24, the higher numerals indicating th<\ amount of fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation oil

or

is

Levant,

These

followed

;

but, in lieu of suet, fine olive

of ben, derived from the ben nuts of the

oil is

oils

same results arc obtained. “Huile Antique” of such and

used, and the

are ca*lled

such a flower.

When

neither of the foregoing processes gives satis-

factory results, the method of procedure adopted

by

4.

Absorption, or Enjleurage

flowers are so delicate

quired

Jn

the

and

previously

.

is

— The odors of some

volatile,-

that the heat; re-

named, processes would

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;

.

39

ABSORPTION. greatly modify, cess

is,

net entirely spoil them

if

conducted

therefore,

cold,,

thus

; :

this pro-

—Square

frames, about three inches deep, with a .glass bottom,

say two feet wide and three feet long, are procured Oter the glass a layer of fat

is

;

spread, about half an

inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula into this the flower buds are stuck, eup downwards,

and ranged completely over

and there

it,

from

left

twelve t6 seventy-two hours.

Some

houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and

Sons; Pascal Brothers;

II.

Herman, .and a few

others,

have 3000 such frames at work djiring the season as they are

filled,

they are piled one over the other,

the flowers are chaflged so long as the plants continue

to-

-bloom, which

thrpe gionths.

<

now and ‘then exceeds two

or

For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are or oil of ben, and imbued with the finest olive oil • stretched upon a frame mado of iron on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. •

'

.

;

This operation

is

repeated several

tiipcs, after

which

the cloths are subjected to great pressure, to remove

now perfumed oil. As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come to speak the

'of the-individual flower or plant.

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;

40

THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.

SECTION Whenever to

bo

a

*

III.

is named, or an article is said “drawn,� it must be understood to

Still

distilled or

be done so by steam apparatus, mode wbieh can be adopted for like a delicate- odor

immediately under

;

as this

tbe only

is

obtaining anything

the old plan of having the

tlbe

fire

conveying an empyreu-

stilj,

matic or burnt smell to the result, has become* obsolete in

The

every well-regulated perfumatory. steam-still differs

from the One described only

in the lower part, or- pan,

which

made

is

double, so

as to allow steam from a boiler to circulate round the

pan

for the purpose of boiling the oontents, instead

of the direct in the

In macerating, the heat

fire.

same way, or by a contrivance

glue-pOt,.as

made

like

is

the

applied

common

use of nowadays.

This description

of.

apparatus

useful for experiments which

we

will

be found very

will suggest

by-and-

'

by.

The perfumes

for tbe handkerchief, as found in

the shops of Paris- and London, are either simple or

compound

;

the former are called extracts, extraits

esprits, or essences',

and the

latter bouquits

and nosecom-

gays, which are mixtures of the extracts so

pounded in quantity that no one flower or odor can bo discovered as predominating over another and ;

when made of

the delicate-scented flowers carefully

blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the

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SIMPLE EXTRACTS. olfactory nerve,

who can

We

all

afford to -purchase them.

mode

shall first explain the

This

pimple extracts of flowers. ,

41

and are therefore much prized by

for obtaining the

iyill

be followed by

the process for preparing ambergfis, musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin,’are of the

utmost importance as forming a large part in the

we

shall conclude this

department of -the art with recipes

for all the fashion-

m6st approved bouquets

atad

;

able bouquets and 'nosegays, the value of which,

doubt not,

will

•

we

be estimated aocording. to the labor

bestowed upon their analysis' In order to render the work

' .

ifiore

.

easy of consulta-

we have adopted the alphabetical arrangement preference to a more scientific classification.

tion,

'in

Among

the collection of l>ttos of the East India

Company

at the Exhibition.' of 1851,- were several

hitherto

much It

unknown

in

country, and possessing

this

interest.

is

to be regretted, that

practical

case, the

no persQn having any

knowledge of perfumery was placed on the

jury of Class

IV

or

XXIX.

Had

such been the

desires of the exhibitors would- probably

have been realized, and EurQpean perfumers benefited

by the introduction

East.

-

Some

of

new odors from the

of the ottos Sent by a native perfumer

deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as Chumeylee Beyla Begin, Moteya and majay others from the Moluccas, but without any of Benares were

,

,

,

information respecting them.

We

are not going- to' speak of, perhaps,

more than

4*

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TOE AKT OF PERFUMERY.

42

a tithe of the plants that hare a

perfume—only

those will be mentioned that are used by the operative perfumer,

and such

by him

as are imitated

consequence of there being a demand for the

in

article,

which circumstances prevent him from obtaining its

genuine

notice

state'.

The

in

that comes under our

first

is

Allspice:

—Tho odoriferous principle

commonly, called pimento, the dried

fruit,

before

it is

.

is

procured- as an essential oil;

perfumery, and wheh other spice, oils

it is

water.

but

It

little

is

thus

used in

only in combination "with

So,

for scenting soap

;

Eugenia

quite ripe, of the

Myrtus pimento with

pimento, and

of allspice,

obtained by distilling

it

is,

-

however,

very agreeable, and much resembles the smell of

and deserves more attention than Mixed in the proportion hitherto received. cloves,

it

has

.of

two

ounces of»oil of allspice with one gallon of rectified spirit of

wine,

it

forms what

may

be termed extract

of allspice, which extract will be found- very useful in the manufacture of low-priced bouquets.

Almonds. “Mark If

well the flow’rin’g almonds in the

wood

;

od’rouB blooms 4tie bearing brunches loud, glebe will atrswer to the sylvun reign,

The

Grout heats

will follow^

uud large crop* of gruip.” "

This perfuipe has boen ages.

It

fruit;

for

much esteemed

may' be procured by

any of the

*

Virg:L.

for

many

distilling the leaves

of

and the kernels of stone trade purposes, it is obtained from the laurel tribe,

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ALMOND. bitter almonds,

and

43

exists in the skin or pellicle that

covers the seed after

it is

shelled.

.

In the ordinary-

way, the almonds are put into the press for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat

nut

;

the cake which

mixed with

silt

is

from the

oil

then

left after this* process is

and water, and allowed

remain

to

Almond.

together for about twenty-four hours- prior to lation.

The reason

for moistening the cake

distil-

well

i^

understood to the practical chemist,' and although we are

not treating the subject, of

perfumery

in

not be

inappropriate

here

to

observe,

a

it-

may

that

the

-

chemical sense, but only in a practical way,

almonds does not exist ready formed prbduccd by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and essential oil of

to

any extent

in the nut, but that it is

emulsine' contained in the almonds, together, with the

water that

is

added.

laurel leaves,

afi-d

Analogous substances

hence the same .course

pursued when they are

distilled.

exist in is

to

be

Some manufac-

turers put the moistened cake into a

bag of coarse

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TUK ART OF PERFUMERY.

44

spread

cloth, or

stream through

it

it ;

upon a

sieve,

and then force the

in either case, the essential oil of

the almond rises with the watery vapor, and

densed

the odor of almonds

is

con-

is

In this concentrated form,

in the still-worm.

far

from agreeable

;

but

when

diluted with spirit, -in the proportion of about one

and a half ounce of the alcohol,

The

is

it

oil to

a gallon of spirit or

very pleasant.

essential oil of almonds, enters into combina-

tion with soap, cold cream,

prepared by the perfumer

;

and mapy other materials for

which see their respec-

tive titles.

Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential

r

oil.

.

In experiments with this substance, fully

remembered that

it

is

and, therefore, great caution

it

must be care-

exceedingly poisonous, is.

necessary in

its

ad-

mixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise

dangerous results

may

ensue.

Artificial Otto of Almonds.

—Five

or six years ago,

Mr. Mansfield, of-'Wey bridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from benzole. (Benzole

is

obtainerd

from

tar. oil.)

His apparatus,

according to the Report of the juries of the J851 Exhibition,- consists of a large glass tube in the form of a

Qoil,

which at the upper end divides into two

tubes;, each of which

is

provided with a funnel.

A

stream of nitric acid flows slowly into one of the fun-

and benzole into the other. The two substances meet at the point of unipn -of the tubes, 'and a, comnels,

bination ensues with tho evolution of- heat.

.

As

the

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T

ANISE

—BALM.

45

newly formed compound flows down, through the it

becomes

mity

;

*cool,

and

js

coil

collected at the lower extre-

then requires to he washed with water, and

it

lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to

render

it

chemical

Nitro-benzole, which

for tise.”

fit

name

nevertheless be used fot perfuming soap. field writes to

the

is

for this artificial otto of almonds, has a

different odor to the true otto of almonds, but

me under

can

it

Mr. Mans-

date of January 3d, 1855

:

“ In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three King Court, began to make this perfume under my license latterly ;

them by their consent, made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris. AnisEi he odorous principle is procured by I withdrew the license from

and

then

-since

it is

not

distilling the seeds of the plant

Pimpinella anisurn

the product

.of

is

the

oil

of aniseed

commerce.

congeals at a temperature of about 50° Fahr., frequently adulterated with a a certain solidity to tial oils

tibn.

it,

the

oil

it

with less chance of detec-

of aniseed

is

quite soluble in spirit,

insoluble, the fraud is easily de%

fore, well

*is

is

spermaceti, to give

tected.

This perfume

it

it

whereby other cheaper essen-

can be added to

As

and the spermaceti

little

;

As

exceedingly strong, and

is,

there-

adapted for mixipg_with soap and for scent-

ing pomatums, but does not do nicely in compounds for handkerchief use.

Balm,

oil

of Balm, called also

oil

of Melissa,

is

ob-

tained by distilling the leaves of the Melissa officinalis

with water

;

it

comes from

t)ie still

tap with the con-

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

46

densed steam or water, from which

But

with the tap funnel.

fumery,

we except

if

Argento.

Under

Balsam.

is

it

little’

separated

used

combination in

its

.

very

it is

in per-

Aqua

di

.

title

th,is

there are two or three

substances used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru,

balsam of Tolu, and balsam of storax liquid amber).

The

first-named,

called

(also

procured from the

is

Myroxylon peruiferum ; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in tvater. The latter is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong •

odor, like benzoin.

Balsam of Tolu

mum. The

smell of

it

it

;

with the least

runs to a liquid, like brown treaele. particularly agreeable, and being

is

soluble in alcohol

Toluifera halsam-

common rgsin (rosin)

It resembles

warmth, however,

flows from the

makes a good

basis for a bouquet,

giving in this respect a permanence of odor to a

perfume which the simple solution of an possess. useful,

'For

this

purpose

all these

“ Ui.kx has found that balsam of Tolu with

oil

would

riot

balsams are very

though not so much used as they might be.

common

resin.

To

is

frequently adulterated

detect this adulteration he pours sul-

phuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when the bal-

sam

dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving sulphurous

acid, but with the escape of benzoic or

mon *

resin

is

present.

On

the

rated with

Balsam of

storax,

cinnamic acid,

contrary, the

much sulphurous acid common resin .” Archives

blackens, and

commonly

is

if

no com-

balsam -foams,

set free, if

it is

adulte-

der Pharmacie.

called

gum

styrax,

is

obtained in the same manner, and possessing similar

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BAY

—BERGAMOT.

47

properties, with a slight variation of odor,

manner

cable in the same

is

appli-

as the above.

They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the trees "that produce them are indigenous.

Bay,

of sweet Bay, also termed essential

oil

laurel-berries,

oil

of

a very fragrant substance, procured

is

by distillation frpm the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much used. Bergamot. This most useful perfume is procured from the Citrus Bergamia, by expression from

the peel of the fruit. well

known

and good

it

to

It

has a

soft sweet odor, too

When new

need description here.

has a greenish-yellow

greenness by age, especially

corked bottles.

tint,

but loses

its

kept in imperfectly

if

then becomes cloudy from the

It

by the contact and acquires a turpentine smell. It is best preserved in well-stoppered .bottles, kept a cool cellar, and in the dark light, especially the

deposit of resinous matter, produced of. the air,

in

;

direct sunshine, quickly deteriorates its pdor.

observation

may

be applied, indeed, to

except rose, which

When bergamot it

is is

all

This

perfumes,

not so spoiled.

mixed with other

essential oils

greatly adds to their richness, and gives a sweet-

ness to spice

oils

attainable

such compounds are scented soaps.

by no

much used

Mixed with

oflier

in the

means, and

most highly

rectified spirit

in the

proportions of about four ounces of bergamot to a gallon,

and

it

forms what

is

called “extract of bergamot,”

in this state' is.used for the handkerchief.

Though

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

48

and other matters, the leading ingredient in Bayley and Blew’s Ess. Bouquet (see Bouquets). Benzoin, also called Benjamin. This is a very well covered with extract of orris

it is

—

useful substance to perfumers.

It exudes

Styrax benzoin by wounding the

tree,

from the

and drying,

Styrajt Benzoin.

becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter place, and used to be called

Amygdaloides, because of

being inter-

its

spersed with several white spots, which resemble bro-

ken almonds.

When

as a smoke, which

is

heated, these white specks rise easily condensed

upon paper.

The material thus separated from the benzoin is called flowerB of. benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is-'termed benzoic acid* all,

It has

the odor of the resin from which

The

all,

it is

or nearly

derived.

extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms

.

a good

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T

CARAWAY

—CASCARILLA.

permanence and body

to

The

-

a perfume

made

it-

with an

principal .consumption pastilles (see

of -benzoin

is

Poma-

-

-

Caraway.—rThis distillation

in the

Pastilles), and for the

preparation of fictitious vanilla pomade (see

tums).

gives

'

essential oil in spirit.

manufacture of

49

Like balsam of Tolu,

basis for a bouquet.*

odoriferous, prihciple

is

drawn by

from the Reeds of the Carum carui.

It

has. a .very pleasant smell, quite familiaf- enough with-

IV

out. description. .for

which

it is

is

well adapted to perfume, soap,

much used

if ev-er on the continent

may be

;

in

England, though rarely

when

dissolved in spirit

used in combination with

bergamot

for-,

a similar

-vpay

the manufacture

oil

it

of lavender and

©heap essences, in to qloves (see Cloves). If caraway of'

seeds, are ground, they are'well adapted for' mixing to

form sachet powder

(pee

Cascarilla.— he bark of pastilles, as

we

Eau

and

Sachets). is

used

in-

the formation

also enters intp the composition

known

a Bruler, for perfuming apartments, to which

refer.

The bark alone of

*

this plant is -used

by the manu-

facturing perfumer, and that only in the fabrication

of pastilles.

The

Cascarilla gratissimus is however

so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are

gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good

Hope

as

a perfume, and both the C. fragrant and C. fragilis are odoriferous.

It

behooves perfumers, therefore,

/

* See Appendix,

“-Benioic. Acid.”


T

TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.

50

who are on leaves

the look out for novelties, to obtain these

and ascertain the

result of their distillation.

Messrs. Herring and Co., some ycats ago, drew

the

of cascariHii, but

oil

it

was only offered

to the

trade as a euriosity:

Cassia.— he by

essential orl

cwt. of bark yields rather

'1

quarters of a pound of. pil; color

;

very

inferior, to

in §rnell it

fuming

:

is

it

it

it

is

procured

Cinnamomum

more than three

'has a pale yellow

mueh resembles cinnamon, although It

it.

principally used for per-

is

soap, especially

soap,”, as in odor

cassia

bark of the

distilling the outer

cassia.

.of

what

more aromatic

is

“military

called

or spicy than flowery-

therefore finds no place for handkerchief '

use.

.

Cassie.

' !

“ The short narcissus and

’*

*

fair iTaffoiil,

Pansies to pleuSer the sight, and eassie sweet to *

is

one of those

"•

*

swell."’

Virgil. V

*

This

<

Dkvden's

fine odors

winch enters into

the composition of the best handkerchief bouquets.

Flower-buds of the Acacia Pariicxiuna.

When

smelled at alone,

and

rather sickly sweet.

is

it

has an intense violet odor,

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51

CASSIE.

by maceration from the Acacia faris melted, into which the and left to digest iot 'several the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are

It is procured

The

naiana.

flowers are

hours

;

purified fat

J

(thrown,

added, eight or ten. times, until sufficient richness of

perfume

As many

obtained.

is

the grease will cover,liquid state, •

in a

sufficient

only to retain

its

liquidity,

impurities will, subside by1 standing for a few days.

Finally cooled,

The Huile de in

it,

-

k

After being strained, and the pomade has been

kept at a heat

.

flowers are used as

are put into

• .

all

when they

it is

the cassie

pomade of commerce.

Cassie, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared

a similar banner; substituting the

ben nut,

Both

olive, oil,

or

almond

oil,

oil

of Egyptian

in place. of suet.

these preparations are obviously only a solution

of the trpe essential

oil

of cassie flowers in the neu-

Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented potoadje from South Aus-

tral fatty body.

'

derived from- the Wattle, a plant that belongs

tralia,

same genus as the A. fdruesiana, and which Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle plentiful, e profitable

to the

grows most luxuriantly in Australia. trade

may

be anticipated in curing the flowers, &c.

To prepare

the extract of cassie, take six pounds

of No.

24 (best quality)

upon

one gallon of the best rectified

it

cassie popiado,

and place

spirit, as

sent

by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has digested for three weeks or' a month, at a summer out

.heat,

it

is

fit

to

draw from the pomatum, and,

if

good, has a beautiful green color and rich flowery

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

52

smell of the cassle blossom.

All extracts

this process

as

maceration,

cold infusion, give a

or,

may

it

made by

be called^

more natural-smell of the flowers

to the result, than, by merely; dissolving ‘the essential oil

(procured by

in the spirit; moreover,

distillation)

where the odor of

the- flower Exists

m

only very mi-

nute quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet,

jasmine, &c.,

In

this,

it

and

all

of

'

‘ ’

V

.

mode

only practical

is the' *

proceeding..

. .

other similar cases, the

pomatum

must be cut up into Yery small pieces, after the domestic manner of “chopping suet,” prior to its being

The

infused in the alcohol.

action of the mixture is

simply a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body by the -superior attraction^ or

affinity, as

in which

it

the chemists say, of the, spirits of wine,

;

freely dissolves.^

The major part of the extract can be poured or off the pomatum without trouble, but.it still re-

drawn

tains a portion in the interstices, to drain away,

and

this

which requires time

must be assisted by placing

the pomatum' in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to collect the remainder.

pomatum, whieh be put into a

tin,

is

now

which

Finally, all the

called ivashed tin

must be

pomatum,

pomatum thus becomes still

or

liquefied,

in it rises to the surface,

when

from

it.

the

.

.

is

any extract that

cold

to

when the

and can be skimmed

pomatum becomes

The washed pomatum

is

set into hot water,

for the purpose .of melting its contents';

it .*.

is

off,

can be poured •

preserved for use in the

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CEDAR WOOD. manufacture of dressing pose

it is

53

the hair, for which pur-

-for

exceedingly well adapted, on account of the

purity of the grease from which

it

was originally pre-

pared; but more particularly on account of portion of odor which

used up in

this

way,

a second infusion in .could

it

it still

retains

;

spirit,

a.

certain

and were

would be advisable

it

not

to put it for

and thus a weaker extract

be made serviceable for lower priced

articles.

it more and druggists, as ah article well adapted for the purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades -

I cannot leave eassie without recommending

especially to the hotice of perfumers'

for the hair.

When

diluted with other odors,

it

im-

parts to the whole stioh a true flowery fragrance, that it is

who

the admiration of all

little

and has not a which certain pro-

smell

contributed to the great sale

it,

prietary articles have attained.

We oaution the inexperienced

not,to confound eassie

with caSsia, which has a totally different odor.

See

Acacia. Pomade.

Cedar Wood now and fumer’s warehouse

;

then finds a place in a per-

when ground,

a body for sachet powder.

it

doeswcH to form wood are

Slips of cedar

sold as matches for lighting lamps, because while

burning an agreeable odor use

it also,

in drawers

is

evolved; 'some people

in this condition, distributed

to w prevent moth.�'

yields an essential

oil

that

is

On

among clothes distillation it

exceedingly fragrant.

Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use sively. for

scenting soap.

it

exten-


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

64

Lebanon Cedar Wood.

(

For lhe Handkarchirf) •

"V

Otto of cedar,

.

Rectified spirit,

I^prit rose

.

.

.

.

1 oz. .

.

which

.

1 pint.

$ pint.

trip, *

*•

The

.

tincture smells .agreeably of the wood, from

can readily, be madp.

it

Its crjmson

color,

from being used for the handkerchief. .It forms, an excellent tipeture for the and is the teeth, basis of the celebrated French dentifrice “ eau Botot." ; however, prohibits

it.

.

Cedrat.

—^his perfume

of the citron fruit tion

(

and expression

odor, and

is

is

procured from the rind

Citrus medica), both by distilla;

it

has a very beautiful lemony

much admired.

It is principally used in

the manufacture of essence^ for the handkerchief,'

being too expensive for perfuming grease

What

called extract Of cedrat

is

is

ing two ounces of the above essential

one pint of

spirits, to

oil

dissolv-

Qf citron in

which some jperfumers add half

an ouncp of bergamot. Cinnamon. Several

'or soap.

made by

species of the plant

Laurut

cinnamomum yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be derived from China

Amomum

,

the bark, being one of the most valued

spices of the BaSt.

and thp

oil, -which is

The ground bark pastilles, oil

Perfumers use both the bark obtained by distillation from

enters into tho composition of

tooth powders, and sachets.

of cinnamon

from Ceylon

;

is it

The

it.

some

essential

principally. brought to this country is

exceedingly powerful, and must


-

CITRONELLA

Citron.

Oii

*

distilling the flowers' of the

medica, a Very fragrant species of neroli,

and

oil is

the-

—Under

this

Citrus

procured, which

principally

is

manufacturers of eau de Cologne.

Citronella.

55

'

answer, so will cinnamon. '

—CLOVES.

In such compounds as cloves

be used sparingly.

is

a

consumed by the •

name

.

there is an

oil in

market* chiefly derived .from Ceylon .and the Bast

Indies;

its.

true origin

we

are unable to decide; in

somewhat resembles' citron 'fruit, but is very ’Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of' the Aridropogon genils. Being cheap, it od 6 r

it

inferior.

is

What

extensively used for. perfuming soap.

•now extensively sold as

“honey”

soap,

is

a

is

fine yel-

Some few much admired

low soap slightly perfumed with this 01L use.it for scenting grease,

in that, way.

hut itds not

OloVes.-—Every

1

'

.

j>art of the' “clove plant

(

Cargo

Clove.

phyllui aromaticity) -abounds with aromatic is

most fragrant and

plentiful' in the

oil,

but

it

unexpanded

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

56

flower-bud, which are the cloves of commerce.

Cloves

have been brought into the European market

for

more than 2000 years. The plant is' a native of the Moluccas and other islands in the China seas.' “ The average annual crop of cloves,” says Burnett, “is, .

from each

known

2 or 2|

tree,

125

yield

to

season, and. as

lbs.,

lbs.

but a fine tree has been

-

Of this spice in a single

5000 cloves oply weigh one pound,

there must have been" at least 625,000 .holers upon

^

this single tree.”-

The

oil

may

of cloves

!•••.'

be obtained by expression

from the fresh flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, which is carried on ta a very great extent oils

in

this

country.

Few

essential,

have a more extensive use in perfumery than that ~

of cloves spirit,

,

combines well with grease, soap, and

it

.

and, as wiH be sSbn in the rfecipes for the *

various bouquets given hereafter,

forms a leading

it

some of the most popular handkerchief essences, Rondeletia, the Guard’s Bouquet, &c,, and will be found wherh least expected. For essence of feature in

two

cloves, 'dissolve oil of cloves in the proportion of

ounces of

oil to.

one gallon of

spirit.

DiLL.^-Perfumers are now and then asked for “dill water;”

it is,

however, more a druggist’s article

than a perfumer’s, as qualities

than for

it is

its

more used

odor,

rather pleasant than otherwise.

.

for its medicinal

which by the way,

Some

is

use

ladies

water and half rose water,' as a J simple -©osmetic, “to clear the complexion.” a mixture of half .

dill *

.

The

oil

of

dill

l

is

procured by submitting the *

/

.

Y

** *

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*

EGLANTINE

—ELDER.

57

(Anetkum graveolehs) with water The oil floats on the surface- of the it is separated by the funnel in the usual mapper ;• after the separation of the oil, crushed fruit of

tn

dill

distillation-

from which

distillate,

the “witter”

is fit fo/-

with advantage, with other

if ‘In

Oil of dill

snjall

proportions,

Sweet

Eglantine, Or

.

%m

be used

mixed

sjrfd

S

notwithstanding

‘Briar,

what the poet Robert Jfoyes says *

may

sale.

for perfuming soap.

oils,

.or

'

In fragrance yields,

purpassing citron groves or spicy

does not find a place

in

room” except

This, like

name.

in

fields,”

the perfumer ’g “scent-

m Any other aweet-

sceuted plants, does hot repay the labor -of collecting its

odor.

more

The fragrant part of this" plant

and hence is in

tised

is discarded.

it

demand by the upon them, by *

.

*

is

or less under every treatment that

destroyed -put to,

it is

As, however, the article

public, a species of. fraud

imitating

it

thus

:

prac-

is

* -

*

Imitation Eglantine,* or Essence of Sweet Briar. Spirituous extract of Freneli rose

“ “

Espnt'dc

caseie, •

.

pomatum,

.

fleur d’orangc,

rose,

.

_

Oil of neroli,

Oil of lemon grass (verbena

oil),

. •

.

.

.

of this plant for. is

its

i

pint.

“ “

.

}

.

.

i

.

} drachm.

••

.

.

*.

*

Elder (Sambuaus nigra).— The' only perfumer,

1

>

.

.

i

“ .

preparation

odorous quality used by the

elder-flower water.

To prepare

it,

take


e

;

TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.

58

nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and introduce the

first,

it

to the still with four gallons of

three gallons that

come over

is qll

water

thaf.need-

one ounce ofjjjeotified spirit ; should be added to each gallon of “ water” .distilled,

he preserved for use

and when bottled

it is

ready for

Other .prepa-

sale.

rations of elder flowers are made, such as milk of

be found. in

elder, extract of elder, *&c., which: will

Two

their proper plaee under Cosmetics,

new

materials

made from/ this

-or three-

be

also

flower will

given hereafter, which are likely to meet with a very large

-sale

on account of the reputed cooling qualities

of the ingredients-; of these

more

particularly to cold

to elder

we would

cream of

oil for' Ihe hair.

The preparations of

call attention

elder-flowers,

and

v

elder-flowers, if

made

accord-

ing to .the Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the form& therein given show an utter .want

of- -know*,

ledge of the properties of the materials employed.

Fennel ( Foeniculwm vulgar when ground, enters into the sachet powders.

The

with other aromatic

oil

oils,

It is procurable

soap.

—Dried fennel

herb,

composition of some

of fennel, in conjunction

may

by

).

be used for perfuming-

distillation.

Fla.s (Sweet) (Acorus calamus).

— Tno

roots, or

rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a •

pleasant-smelling yield one

oil

pound of

;

1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus

oil.

can he used according to

It

the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, soap, or for extracts, but requires, other sweet oris

with

it

to hide its origin.

.

,


GERANIUM.

59

Geranium ( Pelargonium odoratissirrium, rose-leaf geranium)}— The leaves of this plant yield by distil.

lation a very agreeable rosy-smelling

sembling real

qf rose,

Uffcto

that

it is

so

oil,

muth

sively for the adulteration of that valuable

and

oil,

grown very largely "for that express purposp.

is

It is

and

principally .cultivated in the south of Prance,

Turkey (by the

re-

used very exten-

in

-In the department of

rose-growers).

Seine-et-Oise, at Montfdrt-Lamaury, in France, hun-

dreds of acres of

it

may he

seen growing.

cwt. of

.1

leaves will yield about two ounces' of essential

Used' to adulterate' Otto of rose, adulterated with ginger grass

in

it is

.its

oil.

turn itSelf

oil (Andropogon ),

and

thus formerly was very difficulty procure genuine

on-accoUnt of the increased cultivation of the plant, is

now, however, easily procured

pfire.

Some samples

are greeflish-colored, others nearly white, but •.

;

it

we

pre-

fer that of a brownish tint.

When

dissolved in rectified spirit, in the propor-

tion of about*

si*;

ounces to the gallon, it forms the

A

“extract of rose-leaf geranium'’ of the shops.

word as

or two

much

is

necessary abotrt the

confusion

is

quence of there being an

oil

nium, but which in reality

andropogon (geranium

terate the true geranium,

nomenclature

in. the

rosedeaf geranium vfhile

it, -in

conse-

under the name of geraderived from the An-

!)

oil

the- Moluccas.

-This

can be used to adul-

and hence we suppose

>drugf markets.

oil

the andropogon

of geranium,

is

dropogon nardus, cultivated in said

oil

created respecting

its

The genuine

fetches about 6s. per. ounce,

oil is

not worth more than that

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;

'

.

THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

60

And we may

sum per pound.

perfuming essential

oils-

observe here, that the

are best purchased through

the wholesale perfumers, as from the nature of their

trade thej have a better knowledge and means of ob-

account of the pleasing odor of - the true leaf geranium,-

many

it is

satisfaction.

fat,

grandijlorum. at present it

we may

ing perfumer.

of rdse-

perfuming

-

or enfleurage

obtain this fine odor from

Heliotrope

Peruvianum

H.

or

is,

not applied to use by the manufaefur‘

This we think rather a singular

especially as'the perfume

abundant.

oil

.Exquisite as the odor. of this plant

is

We

ments being

article for

*

.

of /the

the flowers

'

to give the publie great

—Either by maceration

Heliotrope. with clarified

a valuable

and appears

materials,

p

On

taining the real, article than the drug-broker.

is

-

fact,

powerful and the flowers

should like to hear of some experi-.

tried with, this plant for procuring its

odor ip this epuntry, and for that purpose now suggest the

mode of operation which would most

lead to successful results.

For a small

'

likely

trial in-

the

which can be managed by any person having the run of a garden, we will say, procure an first instance,

ordinary, glue-pot

now

in

common

water-fbathj in

holding

chemical parlance

a pound

or

which

use,

the material by the boiling of water

;

.

it

—one

more of melted

is

ndeTts

in fact a-

capable of

fat.

.

-At the

season when the flowers are in bloom, -obtain half a

pound of fifie mutton

suet,-

melt the suet and strain

it

through a close hair-siqve, allow the .liquefied "fat, as it falls

from the

sieve, to

drop into cold -spring water

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;

61

HELIOTROPE.

and washes the blood and In order to start with a perfectly

this operation granulates

membrane from

it.

inodorous grease, the melting and granulation process

may be

repeated three or four times

remelt the fat and cast

adhering water.

Now pot,

.

.

finally,

;

into a pan to free

it

•

*.

•

it

from

„

pHt the clarified suet into the .macerating

and place

it

in such

a position near the

enough

be liquid; into the fat

to

flowers as

.

you can, and there

twenty-four hours

;

let

fire

of

warm throw ascmany

the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will kegp

it

them remain for from

at this time strain the fat

the spent flowers and add fresh ones operation for a week :

we expect

;

repeat this

at the last straining

the fat will have- become very highly perfumed, and

when

cold

may

be justly termed

Pomade d

la Helio-

trope.

The

pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding,- is- now to be put into a wide-mouthed bottlft,

eold

and covered with

be obtained, and

spirits as

left to

the spirit then strained in reality

it

will

will

is

week

or

'as

can

more

be highly perfumed

be extract of Heliotrope , a delightful

perfume for the handkerchief. operation

highly rectified

digest for a off.

simple enough

:

The rationale of the body has a strong

the, fat

affinity or attraction for the odorous- body, or essential

of the flowers, and

oil

contact,

and becomes

itself

it

therefore absorbs

perfumed.

operation, the spirit has a

much

it

by

In the second

greater attraction

for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter

;

the

former, therefore, becomes perfumed at tho expense G

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

62

The same experiment may be repeated

of the latter. with almond

oil

substituted for the fat.

The experiment heM hinted at, may be varied with any flowers- that there are toipare; indeed, 1?y having the macerating bath larger than was mentioned above, p an excellent milbefleur pomade and essenoe might be

produced .from every conservatory in the kingdom,

and thn& we-may receive aneiber enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of form

and

color,

We

;

:

hope that those of our readers who

feel in-

clined to try experiments of this nature will not be detCrred-by. saying,

“ they are not worth the trouble.”

must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the London perfumery warehouses 16#. It

per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine flowery-teented

pomades fetch the same sum

per' pound.

If the

experiments are successful they should be- published,,

may hop©

as then yte

ing.

.

new and imporBut we are digress-

to establish a

tant manufacture in this country. .

The odor almonds and

of heliotrope resembles a mixture of vanilla,

and

is

well imitated thu^:

Extract op Heliotbope: Spirituous extract of vanilla, 11

-

.

.

.

-

orange-flowef

.

pomatum, (

M ,

11

Ambergris,

Essential oil of almonds, •

A

preparation

-

made

>

, .

in this

.

.

.

.

.. *

}

.

2 oz.

.

- 1* oz.

.5 drops.

'

>

i pint.

.

.

French rose pomatum,

.

manner under the name

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HONEYSUCKLE. of Extract de Heliotrope

63

that which

is

shops of Paris and London, and

sold in the

is

really a very nice

is

perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.

Honeysuckle ,

,

Woodbine

or *

;

• .

*

i

,

.

“ Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan,

But well compensating her

sickly looks •'

With never-cloying odors.”

*

What

the poet

theless,

it is

Cowper here

a flower that

fumery, though there

is

is

' *

says- is quite true; never-

not used in practical per-

no reason for abandoning

it.

.The experiments suggested for obtaining the odor of

HeJmtrOpe and'Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good Imitation of Honeysuckle isjnade thus

:

l

Spirituous extract of rose pomatum, ' •' « “ M violet ’

'

It

tl

Extract of vanilla, '

•“

Tolu,

#

%

The prime

.

.

*

cost of a

a retail druggist with rectified spirit will yet

rally given

to.

.

to

in this

u

manner

meet the demand of

cases

it

may

be diluted

the extent “ to mak,e

be a nicb perfume.

*

drops,

5%

perfume made

“ *

v *

.

'.10

.

.

.

in such

i

#

would probably be too high'

when

.

.

•*: ,

1

1

.

,

pint.

1

.

• ‘

Otto neroli, u almehds,

and

.

tubereuse

it

pay,”

The formula gene-

herein for odors js in anticipation that

bottled they will retail for "Ut least eighteen-'

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.

64

ART GF PERFUMERY.

TIIE

pence the

flukl

ounce

1

which

is

the average price

put on the finest perfumery by the manufacturers of

London and IIovexia-

'

Paris.

—A perfume

a limited extent, but the plant

Japan,

market

if it

is

made thus

U. incquaUg, a

is

native of the

f

quart,

Rectified. spirit,

1

Rose-water,

£

Otto lemons,

i oz.

Otto of rose,* u cloves,

1

it

sold to

jflic article in

at all.

sell

name

this

did not smell better than

IIov<*tiia clulcis or

would not

it

under

*

pint.

drachm.

i 10 drops.

neroli,

First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add .the

After

rose-water.

When compounds

by passing through little

filtration

is

ready for

only added in

sale.

become bright

blotting^papor, the addition of a

carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering

The water

tually clears them. is

it

of this kind do not

<5rder-

in the

effec-

above recipe

may

that the article produced

be retailed at a moderate price, and woujd, of course, be better without that “ universal friend.”

Jasmine.— * * * '

r

t

‘^Luxuriant above

.

The jasmine throwing wide her elegant *

*

1 •

%

This flower

.

all,

sweets.”

is

,

one of 'the most 'prized by the per-

fumer.

Its pdor

liar that

it is

is

delicate,

and sweet,

ap'd so pecu-

without comparison, and as such cannot

be imitated..-

When

the flowers of the

Jasminum

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JASMINS.

odoratiatimum are

65

repeatedly using the water

distilled,

of distillation over fresh flowers, the essential

jasmine taay be procured.

It

is,

oil

of

however, exceed-

ingly rare, on account of the enormCus cost of. pro-

There was a

duction.

fine

sample of six ounoes ex-

hibited in the Tunisian department of the Crystal .

Palace, the priee qf which was

9?.

Theplant '

our

name

the -Yasmyn

is is

derived.

the.

Off

the fluid ounce -

1

Arabs, 'from which -

‘ .

.

,

In the perfumer’s laboratory, tKe. method of Obtaining the odor is by absorption, or, &s the French term it,

enfieurage; that

\ lard and day or flpwers

"bo,

it, leaving them to stand a and repeating the operation with fresh

over

all

—the grease

pomade

by spreading a mixture of pure

is,

suet on a glass tray, and sticking the fresh-

fathered flowers

is;

absorbs the odor.

scraped off. the glass or

low- a temperature as possible,

Finally, the

melted at as

slate,

and strained.

Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared*

much

in the.

6ame way.

cotton wool, previously -steeped

by

ill oil

oletfera), are

Xayers of

of hen' (obtained

pressure- from thc'blanched nuts of

-Moringa,

t

covered with jasmine flowers, which

repeated" several times

;

finally, the- .cottofc

'j?r

is

linen

cloths whicb-some perfumers use, are Squeezed under

The jasmine

a press.

oil

thus produced

aKjasmm 'cdthk French

qntiqUe

houses.

is

the Huile

-

The “ extraet of 'jaemiqe1 is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pontado or oil, and al’

lowing them to remain together for a fortnight at a

summer '

\

Beat.

‘ •

.

/'

The ‘

best quality extract requires two 6* //.:. '

-

'.f

;

V

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

66

pounds of pomatum to every quart of

spirit. The same can be done with the oil of jasmine. If the it must eat up fine previously be to pomade is used, being put into the spirit if the oil is. used, it must be shaken well together every two or mo^e hours, '

;

otherwise, On account of

and but

separates; spirit.

After the cxtrhct

pomatum

or*

oil

composition of

js

Still

pomatum

surface

is

useful,

'

• »

;

the “'washed”

remelted, in the

and gives more any of the “ cre'ams

for the hair,

.*

••

and balms,” &c. &c., made sential oils

if

off,

Jasmine.

.

• .

/

exposed to the

-is

strained

satisfaction to a oustomer than

: r

gravity, the oil

its specific

little

the one smells

“ a nondescript.”.The extract of jasmine •

.

up‘

and scented with*

of the

es-

flower, the other '

• v> enters into the composition :

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— JONQUIL

many

of a great

—LAUREL—LAVENDER.

67

of the most approved handkerchief

perfumes sold by the English and French perfumers. Extract of jasmine

is

sold for the handkerchief of^en

one of those scents which, though vt^-y gratifying at first; becomes what people call “ sickly’ pure, but

is

after exposure to the oxidizing influence of the air,

hut

judiciously mixed with other perfumes of

if

opposite character

customer.

;

is

perfumery purposes

.for

it

very beautilittle

and tubereuse.

The Parisian

a mixture which they call

sell

jonquil.”

is

however but

is

prepared exactly as jasmine.

fumed

.

.

scent of the jonquil

cultivated in comparison with jasmine It

an

sure to please the most fastidious .

— The

Jonquil. ful

is

per-

extract of

.The plant, however, only plays the part of

a godfather to the offspring, giving so«called jonquil

is

made

Spirituous extract of jams^ne pomade,

u

tubereuse

‘i

fleur d’orange,

Extract of vanilla,

.

'

it its

The

name.

thus:

.

.

1 pint.

.

.

.

.1

.

.

J

<

.

2 fluid ounces.

“ “

Laurel. B.y distillation from the berries of the Laurus nobilis and from the leaves of the Laurus :

cerasus, an

oil

-and perfumed water

ai*e

procurable of

a very beautiful and fragrant character. cially,

however,

it

is

Commer-

disregarded, as from the simi-

larity of odor to the oil

distilled

from 'the

bitter

rarely, if ever, Used by the perfumer, the more economical. Lavender. The climate of England' appears to

almond,

it is

latter being

be better" adapted for tho perfect development of

this

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TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.

68

fine old favorite

perfume than any other on the globe,

he ancients,� says Burnett,

“employed

the flowers

the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a

swget scent to water in which they washed; hence the generic

name

jLavender

Mjtcham, tion,

in

Lavandula .�

of the plant, is

grown

an enormous extent

to

which

in Surrey,

the scat of

is

a commercial point of view.

grown

quantities are also

its

at

produc-

Very

large

France, but the fine

in

odor of the British produce realizes in the markot four times the price of that of Continental growth.

Burnett says that the

oil

of

Lavandula spied

more

is

pleasant than that derived from the other species, but

must not mislead the purchaser

this statement

the French spike lavender, as

it is

to

buy

not* worth a tenth

of that derived from the Lavandula; verm.

Ilalf-a-

v

hundred weight of good lavender flowers distillation,

from 14

to.

16

yield,

by

oz. of essential oiL

All the inferior descriptions of

oil

used foT perfuming soaps and greases

of lavender are ;

but the best,

Mitcham lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender water, but which, more properly, should be called that obtained from the

essence or extract of lavender, to be in keeping with

the nomenclature of other essences prepared with spirit.

The number liquid

of formulae published for

perfume of lavender

whole of them der, simple

;

may

is

making a

almost endless, but the

be resolved into essence of laven-

essence of lavender, compound

lavender water.

'

*

and

;

-

/

.

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— LAVENDER.

69

i

There are two methods of making essence of lavender: 1.. By distilling a mixture of essential oil of

lavender and rectified spirit

merely mixing, the

The "which

first is

oil

and the other

;

and the

2.

*

By

spirit together.

process yields the. finest quality :

that

it is

adopted by the firm of Smyth and Nephew,

whose reputation for

such that

this article is

gives

it

a good character in foreign markets, especially India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture.

Lavender essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by mixture only always has a yellowish

which by age becomes darker and

tint,

resinous.

.

.

Smytu’s Lavender.

,

To produce a very

fine distillate, take

Ottoof’English Lavender,

...

•.

.

Rectified spirit (GO over proof),

Rose-water,

Mix and lavender is a

4

oz.

5

pints.

1 pint. 9

there

.

.

.

distil is

Such essence of

five pints for sale.

expensive, hut at Ids. a pint of 14 oz

margin

!

It not being convenient

for profit.

to the general dealer to sell distilled lavender essence,

tho-following form,

by mixture,

will

produce a

first-

rate article, and nearly as white as the above. Essence of Lavendbr. Otto of lavender, Rectified spirit, .

.

.

.....

The perfumer’s

.

.

.

.

.

,

<

.

31

oz.

2 quarts.

,*

retail price for

such quality

is

8*.

per pint of 14 oz.

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:

;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

70

Many

perfumers and druggists in making lavender

water or essence, use a small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving

its

quality

r

very erro-

neous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly '

colors.

'

f

.

dis-

.

Lavender Water.— ake *

*

English Spirit,

oil

;

Rose-water,

*

of lavender, .

.

.

.

*

-

.

i

.

Filter as above, %

*

,

and

.

.

4 oz.

.

.

-.

3 quarts.

.

.

%

ifc

is

.*

.

1 pint.

.

ready for

sale.

I

Common Lavender Water. —-S ame form

as the

above, substituting French lavender for the British.

Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, will be given

come

to

when we

speak of 'compound perfumes, which will be

reserved until we have finished explaining the method

of making the simple essences.

Lemon.

his

fine

perfume

is

abstracted

the Citrus limonum, by expression, from the the

fruit.

The

Otto of lemons in the

cipally from Messina,,

:

such

is

cellar.

when

Most

is

in contact with air

a high temperature

the case

it

of

-

prin-

Otto of lemons, like

the ottos of the Citrus family, oxidation

from

rifad is

where there are hundreds of

acres of “ lemon groves.!’

light

market

is also*

all

*

rapidly prone to

and exposure to

detrimental, and' as

should be preserved in a cool

of the

samples from the gas-heated

shelves of the druggists’ shops, are as

much

like es-

sence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons rancid

oil

of lemons

may,

in a great measure,

be puri-

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LEMON GRASS.

71

fied bj agitation with warm water and final decantation. When new- and good, lemon otto may be. freely use*! in condonation with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming powders for the nursery. From

rapid oxidation,

its

ing gr ease, as

it

should not be. used for perfum-

assists rather

it

to turn rancid

;

than otherwise

all fats

hence pomatums so perfunfed

will

In the manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved jn spirit, in nbt keep well.

the proportion of six to eight ounces of

There

gallon of spirit.

logne;- that Farina uses *

it is

adding a few drops of Liq.

to one

oil

a large consumption of

is

Eau do Codiscovered by

otto of lemons in the manufacture of easily

Ammonim

*

fort, to

half an

oQnce of his Eau de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is

thereby brought out in a remarkable manner

Perhaps

not

it is

in attempts to discover! the composition .

perfumes,

we

are

do

of the

essential

combining with the Ammonia, allow those which .not

smelt. '

Certain

of -certain

by the use of

greatly assisted

strong Liq. Ammoniae.. oils

1

."

of place here to remark, that

out.

do

so,

'

-

i

.

Lemon Grass.

in the

present in the compound, to be

if

— According

market under this name

Amlrvpogon

Pereira, the otto

to is

derived from the

sckoenajithas, a species of grass’

groWs abundantly

in

India.

It

which

cilltivatpd to a

is

large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which

by

distillation.

times called,

oil

from the plant

Lemon

is

easily prpgurcd

grass otto, or, as

it is

of verbena, on account of

its

somesimi-

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.

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

72

larity of odor to that favorite plant,

It

very powerful, well adapted for perfuming soaps

is

and greases, but manufacture of its

imported into

is

country in old English porter and Stout bottles.

this

its

principal consumption

artificial

in' the

is

essence of verbeha.

From

.

Comparatively low price, great strength, and fine

perfume (when

diluted), the

lemon grass

much more used than at present, with advantages the retail shopkeeper. Lilac.— The fragrance of the flowers mental shrub

is

well

otto

may

of this orna-

The essence of

known.

be

considerable

lilac is

obtained either by the process of maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the po-

matiim thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as previously described for cassie the' odor so much resembles tubereuse, as to be frequently used* to adulterate the latter, the demand for tubereuse ;

being at

all

compounded thus

White Lilac may "be

:

* .

«

Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, .

A beauti-

times greater than the sfipply.

Imitation of Essence of

ful

-

'

Otto, of

.

of orange-flower pbmade,

almonds,

.

'

.'

.

>'

.

.

Extract of civet,

The

civet

is

.

.

1 pint.

.

J

.

3 drops.

% oz;

only used to give permanence to the

perfume of the handkerchief.

'

—The

manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the inspired writer, to “ consider the lilies Lily.

of the

field.’’

cultivated

for,

Rich as they are their perfume.

If

in odor, lilies

they are not

are thrown into

'


;

MAGNOLIA. of sweet almonds, or ben

oil

sweet smell

;

oil,

73

they impart to

their

it

but to obtain anything like fragrance,

the infusion must be -repeated a dozen times with the

same

oil,

using fresh flowers for each infusion, after

standing a day or

The

so.

oil

being shaken with an

equal quantity of spirit for a week, gives up to the alcohol,

But how

it is

and thus extract of

made

is

thus

may

lilies

odor

its

be made.

:

Imitation “Lily of thb. ValLey.” Extract of-tubereuse, . U jasmine, a fleur d’orange,

u

vanilla,

u

u

cassie, •

rose,

Otto of almonds,

.... ....

Keep 'this mixture bottle

it

for sale.

.

f

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

3 oz.

.

.

.

\ pint.

.-

.

3 drops.

.

togethfer for a

It is a

I pint.

.

.

1 oz.

month, and then

perfume that

is

much

very

admired. ''Mace,

— Ground mace

is

used in the manufacture

of some of those scented powders called Sachets.

A

strong-smelling essential

it

by

distillation,

Magnolia.

but

it is

mtjy be procured from

oil

rarely used.

—The perfume of

practically, however,

it is

of

this flower is

little .use

facturer, the large size of the blossoms

superb

to the

and

manu-

their

com-

parative scarcity prevents their being used, but a very excellent imitation of is

that which

is

odor

its

is

made

as

under, and

found in the perfumers’ 4hops of Lon-

don and Paris. * •

T

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

74

Imitation “Essence of Magnolia.”

*

pomatum, rose pomatum, tubereuse pomatum, violet pomatum,

Spirituous extract of orange-flower

a

.

Essential oil of citron,

Marjoram.

.

.

almonds,

— The

.

1 *

,

.J

.

J

.

.

.

.

pint.

2 pints.

.

.

pint. *.*

.

.3 drs. .10

.

drops.

r

etto procured

ganum majorqna, commonly by the French,

.

.

by

distilling Ori-

called oil of oringeat

exceedingly powerful, find in this

is

respect resembles

all

the

ottos^ fyorq

species of thyme, of which the

the

marjoram

is

different

one.

One

hundred weight of the dry herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. for

Oringeat

oil is

extensively used

perfuming soap, but more in .France than in

England.

It

is

the chief ingredient used

by Gelle

Fr&res, of Paris, for scenting their “ Tablet Monstre

Soap,” so common in the London shops.

Meadow Sweet. produced by

—A sweet-smelling

distilling the jSpircea

1

otto can be

ulmaria, but itjs

not used by perfumers.

See Balm. Mignonette.^— But for the

Melissa. little

flower, it

than as

and

a. weed.

exquisite odor of this

would scarcely be kpown otherwise

Sweet as

prolific in odor,

we

it is

in its natural state,

are not able to maintain

characteristic smell as an essence.

during separation from the plant, the fragrance

more ox

less modified

reminds the sense give

it

;

though not perfect,

of" the

its

Like many others, is

it

still

odor of the flowers.

To

that sweetness which-

it

appears to want, a

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75

MINT. certain quantity of violet

the market odor.

As

added

is

Very

prolific in odor,

something might be done' with

it

up

it

France

it

in England, espe-

and we desire

Flower Farms and

to see

ganized Perfumatories established in the British for the extraction of essences

pomade and

or-

Isles,

and the manufacture of

of such flowers as are indigenous,

oils,

or that thrive in the open fields of our country,

up a new

sides opening

investment for capital,

ment

field it

ployment for the young,

Be-

of enterprise and good

would give healthy employ-

many women and

to

to

we think

flourishes as well in this country as in

cially as ;

to bring

.

this plant is so

is

Open

children.

of no

little

em-

air

consideration

to maintain ibe stamina of the future generation; for it

cannot

4m denied

that

and

our factory system

confined cities are prejudicial to the physical condition of the

To

human

>return

family.

from our digression.

The

essence of

more often sold under the name ef Extrait de Bdzdda, is prepared by .infusing the rtfzdda pomade in rectified spirit,' in the proportion of one pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together for a fortnight, when the esmignonette,

sence

or, as it is

is filtered off

d’ambri:

is

added

permanence

the pomade.

to

does not in any way^ alter

—

.

One ounce of

every pint.

to the odor

its

—

ll

is

extrait

done to give

odor.

Miribane. he French name of almond (see Ai*mond). Mint.-

This

upon the handkerchief, and for artificial essence

the Mcnthidee yield fragrant ottos

by

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A

THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

76

The

distillation.

(M.

otto of the spear-mint

viridis)

exceedingly powerful, and very valuable for per-

is

fuming soap,

in conjunction with other perfumes. Per-

fumers use the ottos of the mint

in the

manufacture

The leading in“eau Botot” is oil' of pepgood imitation may be mad©

of mouth-washes and dental liquid?.

.

gredient in the celebrated

A

permint in alcohol, thus

:

Eau de E0T9T.

.

Tincture of cedar wood, “ myrrh,. ,

'

spear mint,

cloves,

.

roses,

.

1

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1

.

.

pint

1 oz.

Oil of peppermint,

,

.... .

i

dr.

_

} dr. 10 drops.

.

.

.

.

10

.

Modifications 'of this formula can be readily -sug-

main object is to retain the mint ottos, more power than any other aromatic to

gested, but the

as they have

Mouth-washes,

overcome the smell of tobacco.

it

must be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a dentifrice.

Myrtle. by

distilling

myrtle

very fragrant otto

may be

procured

both flowers and leaves of the

common

ene hundred-weight will yield about

;

ounces of the volatile

oil.

The demand

five

for essence

of myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the

perfumers’ shops it is

is

imitated thus

:

very rarely a genuine

but

article,

'

Imitation Essence of Myrtle. Extract of vanilla,

.

roses,

.

.

.

.

.

.

$ 1

pint.

..

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NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER. Extract of fleur.d'orangc, “ tubereuse, u jasmine, . .

Mix and

and

is

i .

.

.

,

.

allow to stand for a fortnight

for bottling,

77 J pint.

a perfume

thq,t

.

:

it is

2 oz.

then

fit

gives a great deal

of satisfaction.

Myrtle-flower water

name

is

of eau d’ange, and

sold in France under the

may

he prepared like rose,

elder, or other flower waters.

NEROLr, or Orange-flower. Two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them.

This difference of perfume frorp the same flower

fact

is

is

a

This curious

great advantage to the manufacturer.

worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher.

It is not peculiar to the orange-flower, but applies to

many others, especially When orange-flowers process, that

is,

—probably

rose

to all flowers.

are treated by the fhaceration

by infusion

cure Qfange-flower pomatum,

in a fatty its

bodyj we pro-

strength and quality

being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower

made

in the

same grease*

>

By''digesting this orange-flower fied spirits in the proportions of

eight pounds of

a fortnight

pomade

‘At a

pomatum

in recti-

from six pounds to

to a gallon of spirit, for

suihmer. heat,

wo obtain

about

the extrait

de fleur d’orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpassed by none.

In this state

its

odor resembles the original so much, that with closed eyes the best judge couhl not distinguish tho scent of the extract, from that of the flower.

The

peculiar*

7*

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78

THE ART OF PERFCMERY.

flowery odor of this extract renders

fumers, not only to

sell in

it

valuable to per-

a pure state, but slightly

modified with other extraits passes for “ sweet -pea,”

Orange.

“magnolia,” &c., which

it

grance.

slightly resembles in fra-

.

Nqw, when orange-flowery are distilled with watei we procure the pttp of the blossom, which is Known -

,

commercially as

oil

from the flowers

of neroli.

of-

the

The- neroli procured

Citrus aufantiiim

sidered to he the finest quality, and petale.”

The next

is

is

con-

called “ neroli

quality; “neroli bigarade,”

is

de-

rived from tie blossoms of the Citrus bigaradia, or Seville orange.

Another quality, which

is

considered

inferior to the. preceding, is the neroli petit grain,

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NUTMEG.

79

obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus.

The “petale” and “bigarade” neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit grain is iflainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de neroli^ dissolve

1^

oz. of neroli getale in

one

Although very agreeable, the manufacture of 'bouquets,

gallon of rectified spirits.

and extensively used in it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d’orange, as derived from the samo flowers by maceration

;

has as different an odor as

in fact, it

though obtained from' another plant, yet in theory both these extraits are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower.

The water used for distillation in procuring the when well freed from the oil; is imported into eau de fleur d’orange,

neroli,

this country untfer the name, of

and may be used,

like elder-flower

the skin, and as ah eye lotion. its fine

fragrance, and

it is

ahd rose-water, for

It is remarkable for

astonishing that

it is

not

more used, being moderate in price. (See Syringa.) Nutmeg, The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used -

'

advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bago.

Olibanum

is

a

gum

in thig country,- in the pastilles.

— See “Sachet’s Powders.”

resin, used to a limited extent

manufacture of incense and

It is chiefly interesting as being one of

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U

80

a

TIIE

ART OF PERFUMERY. «

those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention

made “

in the

" is

Holy volume.*

It is believed,” says Burnett,

have been one

to

of the ingredients in the sweet incense of .the Jews;

and

it

burnt as incense in the Greek and

still

is

Romish churches, where round' the

jjltar

gious service.

the* diffusion of such odors

forms a part of the prescribed

reli-

'

Olibanum is most of the balsams, probably owes

.

partially soluble in alcohol, and, like

perfume

its

to a

peculiar odoriferous body,' associated with the benzoic acid

it.

contains.

For making the tincture of extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the

Orange

gum

nder

to 1 gallon of the spirit.

the

“Nereli” we

title

have

already sp’bken of the odoriferous principle of the .

We have now to speak of what is known in the markot' as Essence of Orange, or, a» it is more frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,— name, however, which we cannot admit in a classified orange-blossom.

list

of the “ odors of {Hants.”

The

the orange distillation. little

Its

.

otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of fruit,- is

procured by expression and by

The peel

is

rasped in order to crush the

vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.

abundance in the peel

is

piece near the flame of a, candle

shown by pinching a ;

the

o.tto

that spirts

out ignites- with a brilliant illumination. It has

many

uses in perfumery, and jrom

freshing fragrance finds

* See

many

its

re-

admirers.

“ Incense.”

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ORRIS. the

It is

81

ingredient in what

leading

is

“Lisbon Water” and “ Eau de Portugal.” lowing

fol-

Water.

LiSbost

Gtto of orange peel-, “ lemon peel,

.

.

...

.

......

rose,

is

The

a very useful form for preparing

is

Rectified spirit (not less than GQ over proof),

This

sold as

gallon.

.

I

.

3 oz.

.

3 oz.

.

1 oz.

a form for

Eau de Portugal. Rectified spirit (GO oyer proof),

Essential

**

“ “

oil

»

“ H -

of orangfe peel,

.1

.

gaHon.

.

.

.

6 oz..

lemou

peel,

...

.

.

1 oz.

lemon

grass,

.

'

.

.

...

bergamot, otto of rose,

.

I

.

oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

...

I oz.

It should be noted that these perfumes ara never

to be filled into wqt bottles, for if

Jn 'any way damp

from water, a minute portion of the ottos ’are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to tho mixture.

Indeed,

all

bottles should be spirit rinsed

prior do being filled with

any perfume,

but, especially

with those containing essences of orange or lemon •'

peel.

Orris, properly Iris.

—The

V

dried rhizome of Iris

jlarcntina has a very pleasant odor, which, for the

want of a better comparison, smell of .violets

tory to the

when such

;

it

is,

is

said to resemble the

however, exceedingly deroga-

chartning aroma of that. modest flower invidious comparisons are' made.

i

Never-

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;

.

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

82

theless the peiffume of iris root

worthy of the place

The powder of

sively used

in

orris, or* as

a perfuming

very exten-

fathers that celebrated “ori-

It

known

For tincture of

Qdonto.”

as

the perfumers

call

it,

Extract of'Orris,

,

»

Take

good; and well as-

orris root is

the manufacture of ’sachet powders,

tooth-powder, &e. ental herb”

is

haa obtained

it

Bubstance.

orris root, crushed,

Rectified spirits;

•.

.

.„

.

.

.

'

7 lbs.

.

.

.

.1

.

gallon.

After standing together for about a fortnight,, the extract

fit

te'

to take

off.

It requires considerable

away, and, to prevent

time to drain

the

loss,

re-

mainder, of the orris should be placed in the tincture press.

Tliis

extract -enters

into

composition

the

many of the most celebrated bouquets, such as “ Jockey Club,” and others, but is never sold alone, of

because

good

its

odor, although grateful, «is- not sufficiently

to *&tand

public opinion upon" its

but in combination little

aroma

itself,

its

yet

value it

is

own

merits

very -great; ppssessing

has the power of strengthen-

ing the odor of other fVagrant bodies; like the

and

steel;

flint

which though comparatively incombustible,

readily flee inflammable bodies.

Palm.

—The odor of palm oil—the fat

oil

of com-

mcrce^-is due to a fragrant principle -which tains. is

By

con-

it

infusion in alcohol, the odoriferous

body

dissolved, artd resembles, to a certain- extent, the

tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but indifferent,

and

is

is

not likely to be brought into

very use,

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PATCHOULY.

83

though several attempts have been made to render

it

6f service 'when -the cultivation of the violets have

from bad seasons. Patchouly. Pogostemori patchouly (Bindley), craasifoliua (Burnett), .is an herb that grows extensively in India and China. It> somewhat resembles our garden saga in its growth and form, failed

—

PUctranthus

but the leaves are

pot* so fleshy.

The odor of patchouly in the leaves distillation.

oz.

o'f

is due to an otto contained and stems, and is readily procured by 1 cwt. of good herb wilL yield about 28

thp essential

oil,

which

is

of a 'dark brown

*

Patchouly.

color^and of

b

density about the same as that of

of sandal wood, which character.

•

it

Its odor is the

oil

resembles in its physical

most powerful of any

rived from the botanic kingdom

;

hence,

if

de-

mixed

in


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

84

I

the proportion of measure for meausure, covers the smell of

"...

spirit;

Otto of patchouly, “ rose, . .

.

.1

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

The essence of 'patchouly, thus made is

found

in the perfumers’

Although few run, yet

|

is

that which

shops of Paris and London,

have had such a fashionable

p'erfunles

when smeHed

It oz. i oz.

\

gallon.

.

.

.

. .

completely

it

'

Extracj of Patchouly.

:

Rectified

other bodies.

all

at in its pure state,

it

is

far

from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to

Lycopodium,

or, as

some say,

it

smells of “ old coats.”

The is

characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink

due to some admixture of

this herb.

The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in A few years ago real Indian Europe is curious. shawls' bore an extravagant

price,

and purchasers

could always distinguish them by their odor

they were perfumed with patchouly.

;

in fact,-

The French

manufacturers had for some time successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor.

At

length they discovered the-secret, and began to

import the plant to perfume articles of their make,

and thus palm

off

hemespun shawls

From

this origin the

use.

Patchouly herb

as real Indian

!

perfumers have brought *it into is

drawers in which linen

extensively used for scenting

is

kept^ for this purpose

it is

best to powder the leaves and put sacks, covered with silk, after

them into muslin the manner of the old-

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;

SWEET PEA. In

fashioned Lavender bag.

85 very

this state it is

effi-

cacious in preventing the clothes from being attacked

by moths.

Several combinations of patchouly will ‘

be given in the recipes for “-bouquets and nosegays.”

Pea (Sweet).—A very fine odor may be abstracted from the flowers of the chick-vetch by ulceration in

any fatty body, and then digesting, the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however,, rarely manufactured, because a very close

.

Imitation qf the Essence of Sweet JPia

can be prepared thus Extract of tuberose,

.

:

*

fleur d’orange, '

.

} pint.

.

-

i

rose from

pomatum,

.

h

vanilla,

.

.

1 oz.

.

Scents, ‘like sounds,- appear to influence the olfac-

There

tory nerVe in -certain definite degrees. it

were, an octave of odors

like'

is,

as

an octave in music

certain

odors coincide, like the keys of an instru-

ment.

Such as

almond, heliotrope,

vanilla,

orange-blossoms blend together, each producing

and dif-

ferent degrees of

a nearly similar intpression.

we have

lemon, orange-peel, and verbena,

citron,

forming a ‘higher octave of similar manner.

we

'smells,

The metaphor

is

Again,

which blend in a completed by what

are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and

rose geranium for the half note'; petty grain, neroli,

Then we and many

a black key, followed by fleur d’orange.

have patchouli, sandal-wood, and others running into each other.

vitivert, .

.

' •

8

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

86

From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine. The odor of some .flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in .

composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as

Hence

camphor, turpentine, rosemary.

we may presume

that chemistry will sooner or later

many

produce one from the other, for with

merely an atom of water or

it

is

atom of oxygen that It'would .be a grand thing to causes the difference. produce otto Of roses from oil of rosemary, or from the rose geranium bility.

The tains a

of the

oil,

an.

and theory indicates

essential oil of

almonds

a

in

oil,

little

spontaneously passes into another odori*

is

form over the dry parts of the

natural illustration of this idea. for

bottle that con-

gopd deal of air-oxygen, and but a very

ferous body,- benzoin acid.; which to

possi-

its

-

'flask.

its

which similarity

This

is

a

In giving the recipe

“sweet pea” a£ above, we form

pression that

seen in crystal?

it

with the im-

odor resembles the orange-blossom, is

approached- nearer by the addition,

of the rose and tuberose.

The

vanilla

is

used merely to give permanenoe to

the scent on the handkerchief, and this latter

body

is

chosen in preference to extract of musk or ambergris, which' wonld answer the

same purpose of giving

per-

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— /

PINE- APPLE.

manence

87

to the more volatile ingredients

because

;

the vanilla strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve

new

as the orange-blossom, and thus no

different scent is brought about as the off

from the handkerchief.

When

idea of a

perfume dies

perfumes are not

mixed upon this principle, then we hear that such and -sijch a perfume becomes “ sifckly” or “ faint” after they

have been on the 'handkerchief a short

time.

.

Both

Pine-apple.

-Dr.

with regard fumery..

.

Hoffman and Dr. Lyon

Playfair.have fallen into some error

in’ their

inferences

odor in per-

to the application of this

After various practical experiments con-

ducted in a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that

when

it

cannot be so applied, simply because

the essence of pine-apple

is

smelled

vapor produces an involuntary actiop producing cough, when exceedingly the infinitesimal portions

it still

.of

at,

dilute.

Even

is

expected

if used*

upon a handkerchief,

lowed by intense headache.

in

produces disagreeable-

irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged,

as

the

the larynx,

is

such fol-

It is obvious, therefore,

that the legitimate -use of the essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with hcnefit to the

manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the What we have confectioner as a flavoring material. here said refers to the

artificial

essence of pine-apple,

or butyrate of ethyloxidc, which, if very

much

diluted

with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and

hence

its

nam#

;

but how far the same observations

are applicable to the true essential

oil

from the

fruit

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

88

or epidermis of the pine-apple, retrains to be seen

when we procure are now coming

As

it.

the

West Indian pine-apples day

freely into the market, the

is

probably not distant when demonstrative experiments can be tried

but hitherto

;

must he remembered

it

our experiments have only been performed with a

body reseyibling in smell the fruit. The human body

true*essential oil of the

physical ‘action of is

upon the

ethers

all

quite sufficient to prevent their appli-

cation in perfumery, however useful in confectionary,

whjch

it

cial

understood has to deal with another of

is

—not

of smell, but of taste. The commer“ essence of pine-apple,” or “ pine-apple oil,”

the senses,

and “jargonelle

pear-oil,” are admitted only to be

such, but really- are

labelled

organic acid

certain

For the present, then, perfumers must only look. on these bodies as so many lines in the “Poetry ethers.

.

of Science,” which, for the present, are without practical application in his art.

Pink.

t>j.antlms •CaryophyUus.

T-he clove pink

emits a most fragrant odor, “ especially at night,”

says Darwin. “

'

,

is

Die

lavish pink that scents the garden -round,”

*

not, however, at present a^plied;in perfumery, ex-

cept in name. /

.

Esprit

“ “

Imitation Essence of Clove Pink.

rosp,.

.

.

fleuf^d’orange,

de

.,

.

.

caksie,'

vanilla,

Oil of'cloves,

.

.

.

.

.

*

.

; .

* .

.

.

.

.

.

...

•>

. ’.

.

.

i pint. “ J

.

i

.

2 oz.

.10

drops.

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;

89

ROSE.

remarkable how very much

It is

this

mixture re-

sembles the odor of -the flower, and the public never

doubt

its

being the “ real thing.”

Rhodium.

—When

rose-wood, the lignum of the

Convolvulus scoparius, oil is

distilled,

is

a sweet-smelling

procured, resembling in some slight degree the

fragrance of the rose, and hence time, that

is,

its

At one

name.

prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf

geranium, the

distillate^

the root of the

.

from rose-wood and from

Genista canarimsis (Canary-rose-

wood), were principally drawn for the adulteration of reaJ otto of roses, but as the geranium

much

so

disuse,

better, the oil of

hence

its

oil

rhodium has

comparative scarcity in the market

at the present day, though our grandfather's well.

One

answers

fallen into

wood

cwt. of

knew

it

yields about three ounces of

oil.

Ground rose-wood

is

valuable as a basis in the

manufacture of sachet powders for perfuming the wardrobe.

The French have given the 'name jacaranda

to rose-

wood, under the idea that the plant called jacaranda

by the Brazilians yields it, which" is not the ease “ the game word has perhaps been the origin of palisander

—palixander, badly written.”

Rose.

x

Burnett.

.

.

“ Go, crop the gay rose’s vermeil bloom,

And "waft v

its

a sweet perfume,

spoils,

In incense to the skies.” •

Ocii.vie.

*

This queen of the garden loses not

its

diadem

in

8*

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

90

The

the perfuming world.

commonly

of roses, or, as

oil

it

is

called, the otto, or attar, of roses, is pro-

cured (contrary to so

many

statements)

opposite

simply by distilling the roses with water.

The

otto, or attar, of ruse of

commerce

derived

is

from the Rosa centifolia provincidUs. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople (Turkey in Europe)

;

Broussa,

at

now famous

as the residence

and at Uslak (Turkey at'Ghazepore, jn India.

of Abd-el-Kader ; algo .

The

cultivators in

in Asia);

Turkey are principally the Chris-

tian inhabitants of the ‘low countries of the Balkan,

between Selimno and Carloya, as far as Philippopolis, in Bulgaria,' about

good seasons,

200 miles from Constantinople. 76,000 ounces

this district yields

;

In but

in bacLseasons only 20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar

are obtained.

2000 rose

It

is

estimated that

bloonjs to yield one

The* otto slightly Varies districts

;

many

it

requires at least

drachm of

in

otto.

odor from

different

places furnish an otto which solidifies

more readily than

others, and, therefore,- this

a sure guide of purity, though

many

consider

is

it

not

such.

That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1861, as “ from Ghazepore,” in India, obtained the prize. “ Attar of roses, to

any other

;

well as beauty. is

made

in

Cashmere,

is

considered superior

a circumstance not surprising,

Hugql, the flower

is

A

as,

according to

here produced of surpassing fragrance as

large quantity of rose-water twice distilled

allowed to run off into an open vesSet, placed over night in a

Cool running stream, and in the morning the oil

is

found

ing on the Surface in minute specks, which are taken

off

float-

very


91

ROSE.

means of a blade of

carefully by

a dark green

color,

apd as hard as

resin, itot

a temperature about that of boiling wateV.

600 pounds’ weight of leaves is required to Indian Encyclopedia.

of the attar .” '

Pure otto of

not

many

from

roses,

when

admirers,;

nothing to equal

When

sword-lily.

its

it is

of

becoming liquid at Between 5Q0 and produce one ounce

cloying sweetness, has

diluted, however, there is

in odor, especially if

it

cool

mixed

in

soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the

The

esprit de rose.

"Soap not allowing the

we cannot be

to evaporate very, fast, .

the .smell of the otto.

The

surfeited with

* ,

finest preparation of rose as

an odor

Here the

flowers

Qrasse, in France.

at

perfume

is

made

are not

treated for the otto, but are subjected to the process

of maceration

in- fat,

or in

oil,

as described under

jasmine, heliotrope, &c.

The say 8

rose

lbs.

pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, Pomade to one gallon of spirit,

of No. 24

yields ait esprit de rose of the first or’der, very superior to that which

is

made by

the addition of otto to spirit.

It is difficult to account for this difference, but sufficiently characteristic

to

form a

distinct

it

is

odor.

See the article on fleur d’orange and neroli (pp, 77, 78), which hav6 similar 'qualities, previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French '

rose popiade

is

never sold retail by the perfumer

;

he

reserves this to form part of his recherche bouquets.

Some selling

for

it

them

wholesale

now to

for

dri/ggists

some time

haVe,

however, been

to country practitioners,

form extemporaneous rose-water, which

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

92 it

Roses are cultivated to

does to great perfection.

a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, perfumers’

for

season

when

use,

make

to,

In the

rose-water.

successive crops can be got, which

is

about the end of June, or the early part of July,

they are gathered as soon as the dew to

town

in sacks.

When

is off,

they arrive, *they are im-

mediately' spread out upon a cool floor left in

and sent

:

otherwise, if

a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or

three hours, as to be quite spoiled.

There

po

is

organic matter which so rapidly absorbs oxygen, and

becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered roses.

To preserve

these roses, the

immediately pickle them

;

London perfumers

for this purpose, the leaves

are separated from the stalks, and to every bushel of

pound The salt

flowers, equal to about six pounds’ weight, one

of

common

salt is

thoroughly rubbed

in.

absorbs the water existing in the petals, tind rapidly

becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way

keep almost any length of time, without A good rosewater can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of 'pickled “ Draw” off two roses, and 2£ gallons of water. they

will

the fragrance being seriously injured.

gallons; the product will be the double-distilled rose-

water of the shops.

The rose-water

from the South of France in odor to

is,

that

is

any that can be produced here.

a residuary product of the procuring the attar,

it

imported

however, very superior"

As

it is

distillation of roses for

has a richness of aroma which

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93

ROSE.

appears to be inimitable with English-grown roses.

There are four

ipodifications of essence of rose for

the handkerchief, which are the ne plus ultra of the

They

perfumer’s art.

are,

essence of white of roses,

The

essence of mosi rose. for their formation

—esprit

de rose

triple,

of tea rose, and

lesseiice

following are the recipes

:

"Esprit de Rose' Triple. Rectified alcohol,

Otto of

Mix

at a

rose,"

1

.

.

summer heat

.

;

.

.

a quarter of

in the course of

an hour the whole of the otto ready for bottling and

dissolved,

is

and

is

then

In the winter soason

sale.

beautiful crystals of the otto

gallon.

3 oz.

.

if it is

good

—appear

disseminated through the esprit. Essence of Moss Rose. Spirituous extract from French Rose

Esprit de tose triple,

.

pomatum,

:

musk,

Allow the ingredients night

;

then

filter,

.

.

to

pint.

1

.

.....

i

quart.

1

.1

.

Extracts fleur d orange pomatum, “ ' of ambergris,

i

4

oz.

remain together for a

and

if requisite,

it

fort-

ready for

is

sale.

IJssENqE of

White Rose.

Esprit de rose from pomatum, “ u ." triple, .

violette,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.1

.

\

1

.

.

1

Extracts of jasmine,

patchouly,

quart.

1 pint. .

“ .

.

i

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"

;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY. Essence of Tea Rose Esprit de rose pomade,

*

triple,

1 pint.

u

i .

orris,

N

1

neroli,

(i

«:Hr!

1

.

Extract of rose-lenf gernnium, “ , sandal-wood,

“ •Ti

i

i

Rosemary. u There's rosemary, that’s for remembrance.” u-.

Shakspeare.

»»•

*

By distilling otto

Rosmarinus

the

officinalis

a thin limpid

procured, having the characteristic odor of

is

the plant, which

*K

One

more aromatic than sweet.

is

A..

the

of

cwt.

herb yields about twenty-four

fresh

’T

ounces of

Otto of rosemary

oil.

used in perfumery, especially KfV

other

scenting

for

ottos

cannot be made without

“ Hungary water” following

is

it is

in.

soap. it,

is

very extensively

combination with

Eau de Cologne

and in the once famous Ut

The

the leading ingredient.

the composition of

Hungary Water. Rectified alcohol,

1 gallon.

.

Otto of English rosemary,

2 oz,

lemon-peel,

1 oz.

balm

1 oz.

mint,

(Melissa),

.

»(

i drachm.

Esprit de rose,

.

.

.

Extract of fleur d’orange,

1

pint.

1

«

»l

ti

4 It

is

put ,up for sale in a similar

Cologne, and

J

is

said to take its

way

to eau

name from one

de

I

of the

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SAOE

— SANTAL.

queens of Hungary, who

is

95

reported, to have derived

great benefit from a bath containing seventy-five years.

men

There

at the age of

it,

no doubt- that clergy-

is

and orators, while speaking

for

any

time,

would

derive great benefit from perfuming their handker-

chief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the

rosemary they contain excites the mind

to vigorous

action, sufficient of the stimulant being inhaled

by

occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief

wetted with these “ waters.”

Shakspeare giving us

the key, we can understand how

it

is

that such per-

fumes containing rosemary are universally said to bo

“ so

refreshing

Sage.

by

!”

—A powerful-scenting

distillation

used, but

is

otto can be procured

from any of the Salviece.

It is rarfely

nevertheless very valuable in combination

for scenting soap.

Dried sage-leaves, ground,

will

compound

well for

sachets.

Santal. “

This

is

—Santalum album. The santal tree perfumes, when The axe that laid it low.”

riven,

Cameron.

ah old favorite with the lovers of scent

;

it

the wood that possesses the odor. The finest santalwood grows ii\ the island of Timor, and the Santalwood Islands, where it 'is extensively cultivated for is

the Chinese market.

In the religious /Ceremonies of

the Brahmins, Hindoos, and Chinese, santal-wood

is

way of incense, to an extent almost beyond The Santala grew plentifully in China, but

burned, by belief.

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;;

THK ART OF PERFUMERY.

96

the continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost

exterminated the plant from the Celestial Empire

and suoh is the demand, that it is about to be cultivated in Western Australia in the expectation of a profitable return, which we doubt not -will be realized; $

England alpne woald consume tenfold the quantity

it

Smtai-wood.

does were

its

price within the range of other perfum-

ing substances.

wood

is

The

otto

which

exists in the santal-

readily procured by distillation

good wobd

;

1 cwt, of

will yield about -36 ounces of otto.

The white

ant,

which

is

so

common

in India

China, eating into every organic matter that across, appears to

hence

it is

it

and

comes

have no relish for santal-wood

frequently

made

into caskets, jewel-boxes,

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I

97

SANTAL. This quality, together with

deed-cases, &c.

grance, renders

its

fra-

a valuable article to the cabinet-

it

makers of the East.

The

otto of santal

remarkably dense, and

is

good,

is

When

of a dark straw color.

spirit, it enters into the*

is

appe'arance, and,

all others oleaginous in its

above

when

dissolved in

composition of a great

many

of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as “Marechale,”

and

others, the formulae of

which

will

Perfumers thus make what

after.

is

be given here-

called

Extrait de Boib de Saktai,. Rectified spirits,

.

...

.

Esprit de rose, Essential

oil,

i. e.

.

.

otto,

All those Extracts,

of santal,

.

made by

.

.7 pints. .1 pint. .

3 oz.

dissolving the otto in

alcohol, are nearly white,' or at least only slightly

by the color of the

tinted

oil

used.

When

a perfumer

has to impart a delicate odeur to a lady’s mouchoir,

which in some instances costs “no end of money,”

and

is

an object, at any

cost, to retain

behooves his reputation to

sell

an

unsullied,

it

article that will not

Now, when a perfume manner from any wood or herb, as

stain a delicate white fabric. is

made

in a direct

tinctures are

there

is

made, that

is,

by infusion

in

alcohol,

-

obtained, besides the odoriferous substance, a

solution of cbloring

and extractive matter, which

exceedingly, detrimental

to

its

fragrance,

is

besides

any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon and for this reason this latter seriously staining

;

-

9

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

98

method should never be adopted, except silk

upon

for use

handkerchiefs.

The odor

of aantal assimilates well with rose

and

;

hence, prior to the cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it

was used

to adulterate otto of roses

but

;

now but

is

seldom used for that purpose.

By

a “phonetic” error, santal

often printed

is

“sandal,” and “ sandel.”

Sassafras.

—Some

use a tincture of the

Germany

of the perfumers of

wood of the Laurus sassafras

in

the manufacture of hair-washes and other nostrums

but

our opinion,

as, in

;

has rather a “ physicky”

It

we cannot recommend the German The Eau Athcnienne notwithstanding, has

smell than flowery, recipes.

,

some reputation as a hair-water, but Spike.

—French

oil

of layender, which

from the Lavandula spica spike.

is little

,

else

than

*

a weak tincture of sassafras.

is

is

procured

generally called

of

oil

(See Lavender.)

Storax and Tolu are used in perfumery in the same way as benzoin, namely, -by solution in spirit as

An

a tincture.

ounce of tincture of storax,

or

tolu,

benzoin, being added to a pound of any very volatile

perfume, gives a degree of permanence to

makes

it

last longer

wise would

:

thus,

on the handkerchief than

when any perfume

solution of an otto in spirit,

it is

is

small portion of a.substanco which

is

as extract of musk,

vanilla,

turer using his

extract of

judgment and

other-

usual to add to less volatile,

storax, tolu, orris, vitivert, or benzoin

;

and

it, it

made by

the it

a

such

ambergris,

the manufac-

discretion as to which of

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99

SYRINGA. these materials

are

to

be employed, choosing, of

course, those which are most compatible with the odor

he

making.

is

The power which

these bodies have of “fixing” a

volatile substance, renders

them valuable

to the per-

fumer, independent of their aroma, which

many

is

cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified

esential oil peculiar to each substance,

due in

by an

and which

is

taken up by the alcohol, togothe'r with a portion of

When

resin.

chief, the

the perfume

most

is

put upon a handker-

volatile bodies disappear first: thus,

after the alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos

appear stronger ottos are

;

if it

contains any resinous body, the

held in solution, as

it

were,

by the

resin,

and thus retained on the

fabric.

olfactory nerve, if tutored,

w ill detect its composition, itself, no two ottos

Supposing a perfume to be made of otto only, without any “ fixing” “ perfume substance, then, as the dies away,” the for

spontaneously analyzes

it

having the same volatility

:

thus,

and patchouly

rose, jasmine,

make

a mixture of

the jasmine predomi-

nates

first,

then the rose, and, lastly, the patchouly,

which

will

be found hours after the others have dis-

appeared.

Syringa.

—The

flowers of the Philadclphus coro-

common garden

narius, or

syringa, have an intense

odor resembling the orange-blossom thht in America

orange.”

made

.

A

surfin,

of Cannes,

;

so

much so, mock

often termed “

is

great deal of the

a is

the plant

pomatum sold as pomby the manufacturers

la fleur d’ orange,

nothing more than fine suet perfumed

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

100 •with

syringa blossoms by- the maceration process.

Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost pf what

is

paid for the so-called

orange pomatum.

—

Thyme. All the different species of th^me, but more particularly the lemon thyme, the Thymus sert

pyllum, as well as the marjorams, origanum, &e., yield

by

distillation fragrant otto?, that are exten-

sively used

by manufacturing perfumers

for scenting

soaps; though wel{ adapted for this purpose, they

do not answer at

Both

all

in

any other

combinations.

in grease and' in spirit all these ottos impart

an

herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a consequence, they are

not considered

rechercht,. t

When

any of these herbs are dried and ground,

they usefully .enter into the composition of sachet powders.

TonquiN, or Tonka.

— The

seeds of the Dipterix

odorata are the tonquin or coumarouma beans of

commerce.

When

fresh they are exceedingly fra-

made hay. The Anthoxanthuni odoratum, or sweet-swelling vernal grass, to which new hay owes its odor, probably grant, having an intense, odor of newly

yields identically the is

same fragrant

principle,

and

it

remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal

grass,

while actually growing, are nearly scentless,

but become rapidly aromatic when severed from the parent stock.

Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very teresting, containing,

when

in-

fresh, a fragrant volatile

f

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TONQUIN. otto (to which their odor acid, a fat oil

is

101

principally due), benzoic

and a neutral principal

In perfumery they are valuable,

as,

Coumarin.

when ground,

they form-with other bodies an excellent and perma-

"

Tonquin.

nent sachet, and by infusion in

spirit,

the tincture or

extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the compound essences but on account of- its great strength it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is “ snuffy,” owing to the predominance ;

.

of the odor and those

its

who indulge l

well-known use in the boxes of

in -the titillating dust. •

t

Extract of Tonquin. *

>

Tonquin beans, Rectified spirit,

1 lb. 1

.

\

..

.

,.

.

.1

gallon.

Even after this maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as Pot Pourri, Digest for a month at a summer heat.

y*

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

102

Olla Podrida,

&c.

The extract of tonquin,

extract of orris and extract of vanilla, pure, but

is

}ike

never sold

only used in the manufacture of com-

is

pound perfumes. * It is the leading ingredient in Bouquet du Champ The field Bouquet the great

resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders

it

a favorite to the’ lovers of the pastoral.

Tuberose.

— One of the most exquisite odors with

which we are acquainted

is

obtained by enfleurage

from the tuberose

It

is,

flower.

as

and reminds one of that

in itself,

it

were, a nosegay

perfume

delightful

observed in a well-stocked flowerrgarden at evening close

consequently

;

much

it is

in

demand by

the per-

fumers for compounding sweet essences. %

Extract or Tuberose.

Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very

to be

fine, is

month

at

summer

it is fit

to

draw

wool,

is

placed into 1 gallon of the best

After standing for three weeks or a

rectified spirit.

heat,

off,

and with frequent

agitation,

and being strained through cotton

ready either for -sale or use in the manufacr

ture of bouquets.

This essence of tuberosCj like that of jasmine,

exceedingly volatile, and if sold in quickly “ flies off” the handkerchief ;

its

is

pure state

-

it is

therefore

necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this

purpose

\

it is

best

to-

use one ounce of extract of orris,

or half an ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint

of tuberose.

Vanilla.

' •

—The pod or bean of

the Vanilla plani-

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103

VANILLA. folia yields a perfume of rare excellence.

good, and

if

kept for some time,

it

When

-becomes covered

with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing

Vanilla.

properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it

Few

in composition.

look upon than this,

objects are more beautiful to when viewed by a microscope

with the aid of polarized

light.

Extract of Vakilla. Vanilla pods,

•

Rectified spirit,

Slit the

.

pods from end

interior, then

.

to end, so as to lay

cut them

up

in

J lb. 1 gallon.

open the

lengths of about a

quarter of an inch, macerate with’ occasional agitation for about a

month ; the

tincture jthus formed will only

require straining through cotton to be ready for

use that

is

required.

for a perfume, but

is

In

this state

consumed

it is

in the

any

rarely sold

manufacture

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.

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

104

of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called.

Extract of Vanilla

also used

is

the

largely in

manufacture of hair-washes, which are readily made

by mixing the extract of

vanilla with either

orange, elder, or rosemary water, and

rose,

afterwards

filtering.

We

need scarcely mention, that vanilla

is

greatly

used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring.

Verbena,

The scented

Vervaine.

or

species of

lemon verbena, Aloyaia citriodora

plant, the

this

(Hooker), gives one of the finest perfumes with which

we

are acquainted

;

delightful fragrance

it is well known as yielding a by merely drawing the hand over

the plant ; some of the

little vessels

or sacks containing

the otto must be crushed in this act, as there or no odor

The

by merely smelling

otto,

is little

at the plant.

which can be extracted from the leaves

by

distillation with water,

on account of

is

scarcely, if ever, used

by the manufacturing per-

fumer, but

it is

high price,

most successfully imitated by mixing

the otto of lemon grass,

with rectified

its

Andropogon schoenanthus,

the odor of- which resembles the

spirit,

former to a nicety.

The following

a good form for

is

making the

V

Extract of Verbena. *

*

Rectified spirit,

lemon

orange

»

.

Otto of leniOn grass, peel, peel,

• .

1 .

.

-

•.

.

.1

.

,

* .

.

.

.

.

.

pint.

.

.

3 drachms.

.

.

2 oz.

.

i oz.

'

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VERBENA.

105

After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is

fit

for sale.

Another mixture of

kind,

this

presumed by the

made from the same

public to be finer quality,

is

composed thus

but of a

plant,

it is

sold under the

title

Extkait de Veryeike.

.

Rectified spirit,

1 pint.

Otto of orauge peel,

lemon ,

u

1

peel,

oz.

2 oz.-

drachm.

citron,

1

lemon grass,

2i drachma

u .

Extrait de fleur d'orange, .. “ “ , tubereuse,

7 oz.

Esprit de rose,

$ pint.

This mixture

is

exceedingly refreshing, and

the most elegant white,

when

7 ot.

;

.

perfumes that

is

made.

does not stain the handkerchief.

it

by age the

sold fresh made, as

is

one of

Being It is best

citrine oils

*

and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say “ it is sour.” The vervaine

oxidize,

thus prepared enters into the composition of a great

many the

of the favorite bouquets that are sold under

title

“ Court Bouquet,” and others which are

mixtures of

violet,

rose,

and jasmine, with verbena

or vervaine in different pr.oportions.

EaO de

parations, as also in

where any of the product in

is

In these pre-

Portugal, and in fact

citrine ottos are used, a

preference to, the English corn spirit

for them.

French

much

finer

obtained by using grape spirit or brandy

Nor do they

spirit as in

English. >

.as

a solvent

deteriorate so quickly in

Whether

this be

due

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:

106

ART OF PERFUMERY.

TIIE

to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or not

say, but think

we

catinot

*

it is so.

Violet. u The forward

Sweet

violet thus did I chide

whence

thief,

If not from

my

didst thou steal thy sweet that smells,

love’s breath ?” v

The perfume exhaled by the Viola odorata versally admired, that to speak in

more than of violets”

superfluous. is

its

the

so uni-

“ essence

far greater than the manufacturing per-

fumers are at present able to supply, sequence,

is

favor would be

The demand .for

it is difficult

to

arid as

a con-

procure the genuine article

through the ordinary sources .of trade.

Real

violet

is,

however, sold by

perfumers of the West that prohibits

its

End

many

of the retail

of London, but at a price

use except by the affluent or extra-

The 'violet farms from to make this perfume

vagant votaries of fashion.

whence the flowers are procured are very extensive

.at

Nice and Grasse, also in the

neighborhood of Florence.

The

true smelling prin-

ciple or otto of violets has never yet

been isolated

:

a

very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with the idear of the presence of hy-

drocyanic acid, which

is

probably a true impression.

Burnett says that the plant Viola tricolor (heart’s ease),

when

bruised, smells like peach kernels,

and

doubtless, therefore, contains prussic acid.

The

flowers of the heart’s ease are scentless, but -

the plant evidently contains

a principle which

other species of the Viola,

is

eliminated as

in

the

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107

VIOLET.

“sweet that smells” so beautifully alluded

by

to

Shakspcare.

For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet procured in combination with

is

spirit, oil, or suet, pre-

methods previously described aroma of some other flowers before

cisely .according to the

for obtaining the

mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, orange-

by maceration, or by enjlcurage, the

flower, namely,

former method being principally .adopted, followed by, when “ essence” is required, digesting the pomade 1

in rectified alcohol. '

Good

?

essence* of violets, thus made*,

of a beau-

is

green color, and, though of .a rich deep

tiful

no power to stain a white fabric, and

its

has

tint,

Odor

is

per-

fectly natural.

The essence

rtf

violet, as

prepared for

retail sale, is

thus made, according to the quality and strength of the

pomade

:

— Take from

pomade, chop

violet

six to eight

up

it

pounds of the

and place

fine,

gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel

allow

spirit,

then strain

it

to digest for three weeks or a month,

the essence, and to every pint thereof

ounces of esprit de cassie

We

;

it is

fit

and three

for sale.

have often seen displayed for sale in drug-

them inferring the con-

tents to be “ Extract of Violet tajcen in” are

A

orris root,

then

shops plain tincture of orris root, done up in

nice bottles,* with labels upon

one

off

add three ounces of tincture of

gists’

It into

pil) rectified

customers thus once

hot likely to be so a second time.

good Imitation Essence of Violets

prepared thus

is

best

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108

TIIE

ART OF PERFUMERY.

Spirituous extract of eassie pomade,

.

.

1

.

.

i

....

Esprit de rose, from pomade,

Tincture of orris,

.....

Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade,

Otta of almonds,

After it is

filtration it is

fit

.

.

i

i

.

.

3 drops.

In

for bottling.

pint.

*

this mixture,

the extract of cassie which has the leading smell,

but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very

much

Moreover,

like the violpt;

like the extract of violet

the judgment

the sense of smell.

;

it

has a green color,

ami as the eye influences

Sense of taste, so

liy tire

it

does. with

Extract of violet enters largely

into the composition of several' of the most popular

bouquets, such as extract, of spring flowers and

many

others.

Vjtivert, or Kus-Kus,

the rhizome of an Indian

In the neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the

grass. city,

is

this material

has an extensive

use by being

manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sun-shades,

During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the. atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the .odoriferous* principle of called Tatty.

;

the vitivert.

It has a smell

between the aromatic or

spicy odor and that of flowers

can be admitted. that

it

We

classify

has any odor resembling

it

such a .distinction

if

with orris root, not

it,

but beeause

it

a like effect in use in perfumeiy, and because

prepared Rs a tincture for obtaining

About four pounds of the dried

its

has it is

odor.

vitivfert,

as

it is

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109

VITIVEKT.

imported, being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, produces-the

.Essence of Vitivert of the shops. it is

In this state

rarely used as a perfume, although

it is

occasion-

Vitivert.

by those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in' “ the Eastern clime.” The extract, essence, or tincture bf ally asked for

vitivert, enters into the

composition of several of the

much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as “ Mousselaine dea Indies ,” for which preparation

M. Dcl-

croix, in the zenith of his fame, created quite a furor in the fashionable world. ,

Essence of vitivert

is

also mftde

by dissolving 2

of otto of vitivert in 1 gallon of spirit tion

is

oz.

this prepara-

;

stronger than -the tincture, as above.

Marechale and Bouquet du Roi, perfumes which have also “had their day,” owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivejrt

Bundles of

oOntained in them.

vltiverfenre sold for

perfuming linen and

preventing moth, and, when ground,

is

used to ilianu-

facture certain sachet powders.

Otto of vitivert

is

procurable by distillation

;

a hun-

dred-weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, 10

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

110

which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in tho museum at

Kew. Volkameria.

—An exquisite perfume

is

sold under

name, presumed, of course, to be derived from Whether it has the Volkameria inermis (Lindley). a smell resembling the flower of that plant, or whether

this

the plant blooms at

all,

we

are unable to say.

a native of India, *and seems to be

little

gardens of this country

in the botanic

;

It is

known even however, the

plant has a name, and that’s eneugh for the versatile Parisian

perfumer,

and

if

the

mixture he. makes

“takes” with the faSkionable,world Christens

it

has a

fine

—the plant which

perfume for a certainty

!

Essence of Volkameria. Esprit de violctte, tubereuse,

jasmine,

u

rose,

.

v

Essence do muse,

Wallflower it

might

it is

direct

i

.

i

«

.

2 oz.

be,

the

is

not used in perfumery, though

and vpry successfully

the plant cultivated for that. purpose.'

we would

.*1

(Cherianthus).— Exquisite as

odor of this flower,

no doubt

1 pint.

._

“ “

particular

attention,

To as

too,

were

this flow'er

one well

adapted for experiments.to. obtain jts odoriferous principle in this country,

production.

bur climate being good for

The mode

for obtaining

its

its

odor has

been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page GO.

And

if it

answers on .the small scale, there

is

doubt of success in the large way, and there

little is

no

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WINTER GREEN.

Ill

fear but that the scent of the eld English wallflower will

meet with a demand.

An

Imitation Essence of Wallflower can be

compounded thus

:

1 pint.

Extract fleur d’orange, vanilla,

Esprit de rose,

Extract of

orris,

*

.

.

cassie,

1

4

“ “

i

5 drops.

Essential' oil of almonds,

Allow this mixture to be made up for two or ihree weeks jyior to putting it up for sale. Winter Green ( Trientalis Euxopcea).—k perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant it is principally consumed in the per:

Upon

fuming .of soaps.

this odorous plant a is

the strength of the

name

of

very nice handkerchief perfume

made. Iceland Winter Green. Esprit de rose,

.

'

“ “ “

vitivert, •

1 pint.

.

Essence of lavender, Extract of neroli, “ vanilla,

.

i

.

4

i

“ “

, •

i

cassie,

.

4

ambergris,

*

i

We.have now

described

all

the important odorifer-

ous bodies .which are used by the manufacturing per-

fumer, as derive/l from the botanic kingdpm

;

it

may

be understood that where an odoriferous material

is

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

112 unnoticed,

has no qualities peculiar enough to be

it

remarked on, and that the methods

adopted for

preparing

oil,

essence, extract, water, or

its

are ana-

logous to those that have been already noticed, that is,

by the processes of maceration, absorption or en,

Jlcurage for flowers, by tincturation for roots, and by distillation for seeds, modified

under certain circum-

stances.

There

are, however, three other important deriva-

odors—-ambergris,

tive

civet,

and musk

— which, being

from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order,

whole matter

less

refdr to them. indefinite

may

is

it

considered, to render the

confused to manufacturers who

Ammonia and

.

may an

acetic acid, holding

we have laid, down, much criticism, being

position in the order

also come in here without

considered as primitive odors.

On

terminating our remarks relating to the simple

wo

preparations of the odors of plants, and before

speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those

compound odors

may

nosegays, &c.,

sold, as bbuqudts,

it

probably be interesting to give a few- facts and

statistics,

showing the consumption,

in

England, of

the several substances previously named. Quantities of Essential Oils, ok Ottos, paying

Pound Duty, entered for Home Consumption

in

per

Is.

the Year

1852. *

• ,

Otto of bergampt, “ caraway, “ cassia,

cloves,

.

'

.

-

lbs.

.

.

»

.

.

.

.

.

28,571

'.

3,602

'

.

.

(1,163

595

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;;

DUTY ON ESSENTIAL

113

OILS.

lbs.

Otto of lavender, “ lemon, . “

peppermint,

roses,

spearmint,

“ “

67,348 16,059

.

.

.

.

citronclla,

)

47,380

>

.

other ottos not otherwise described, •

163

.

11,418 ’

*

.

lemon grass,

And

12,776

«

1,268

thyme,

)

\*

Total essential

oils or ottos'

imported in one year,

195,346

at the duty of la. per pound, yield a revenue annually

ofD,766Z. 16a.

*.

would appear by the above return that our con-

It

sumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small whereas fact

is,

it

very large

room

is

The

probably ten times that amount.

several of the English, wholesale druggists are distillers

for the- sale

of this otto, leaving

little

and importation of foreign

or no

distilled

Again, otto of caraway, the English

otto of cloves.

production of that article also, otto of lavender,

is

quite equal to the foreign

which

is

drawn

in this country

probably to the extent of GOOOlbs. annually.

There were also passed through the Oustom House for

home consumption,

in 1852-^-

Pomaturns, procured by epfleurage, maceration, &c.,

commonly called “ French Pomatums,”

average value of

a duty of

Is.

6s.

per pound, and pacing

per pound, valued by the im-

Perfumery not otherwise described

-

£1,306

porters at ;

value

.

£1,920

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TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.

114

Number of bottles a duty of

Is.

of enu de Cologne, paying

each,*

.

19,777

.

.

.

f

Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of

= 8,000Z.

England, say 20,000 flacons at 8 d.

annu-

ally.

The

revenue derived from various sources,

total

even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which “ Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief,” cannot be estimated

annum. spirits

at less thah 40,000Z. per

This,~of eburse, includes the duty upon the

used

homC''manufacture of perfumery.

in the

SECTION '

.IV.

.

PERFUMES' OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.

-

V

In the previous

articles

now

odors of plants; we

used

in'

we have only spoken of the

enter upon those materials

perfumery of an animal

under our notice is—'.

Ambergris.

— This

Madagascar

.

substance

floating near the islands

of -Sumatra, Molucca,

also on the coasts of

often found to yield large pieces of

is

The shores of the

* The dul/on eau de .Cologne per flacon of 4

osfc,

and

The western

counties of Sligo,

Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, are the

Bd.

'

America, Brazil,

.

coast of Ireland

first *

.

fgund in the sea,

is

China, Japan, and the Coromandel.

this substance..

The

origin.

.

or

is

now, according

20 s. per go

I

to

principal

the

last tariff,

Ion,

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AMBERGRIS. places where

it

115

has been Found.

phical Transactions” there

the- “ Philoso-

In.

an account of a lump

is

found on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was bought

on the spot for

London

for

but which afterwards was sold in

20/.,

more than 100/.

We

p. 509).

(Philos. Trans.

many volume? concerning

the origin of ambergris have

been written, but the question respecting

it is- still

at

found in the stomqchs of the most vora-

It is

issue.

No. 227,

are quite within limit in stating that

cious fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they

happen

been particularly found

to

meet with.

It has

in the intestines of the sper-

maceti whale, and most commonly in sickly

whence

suppose^ to be the cause or

it is

fish,

effect of the

disease.

Some

and among them Robert Boyle, conbe bf vegetable production, and analogous amber ; hence its name amber-^m (gray) gray

sider to

it

authors,

to

amber. this its

It

work

is

not, however, within

explained

bur modern appliances were brought to

if

bear upon the subject. scientific enthusiast it,

the province of

upon the various theories about

to discuss

production, which could probably be satisfactorily

all

;

The

field

to any who mention

open

is

recent authors

merely quoting the facts known more than a cen-

tury ago.

A “ It

.

'

*

_

modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, Neyer having smells like dried cow-dung.’* ,

-

sjnelled this latter substance,

the simile be correct

;

we cannot say whether

but we certainly consider that

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

116 its

perfume

forget that

is

most incredibly overrated nor can we found that “ a vessel in which ;

Homberg

he had made a long digestion of the human fseces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris,-

.

insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quantity of essence of ambergris had been.made in

(odor /) was so strong that the

The perfume

it.

vessel was- obliged .to be

tory.”

_

(Mem. Acad.

moved out of

Nevertheless, as ambergris-

perfume, in deference

we presume

that

it

Like bodies of position

the labora-

Paris, 1711.) is

to those

has to

extensively used as a

who admire

many an

odor,

its

agreeable smell.

kind undergoing a slow decom-

this

and possessing

volatility,

little

when

it,

mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them On the handkerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much. Essevge of Ambergris Is only kept for mixing;

sweetened up

when

retailed

to the public nose;

after the Parisian

name

it'

is

it

has to bo

then called

-

Ektrait d’Ambre. Esprit de rose

triple,

*

.

.

.

.

Extract of ambergris,

.

.

.

Essence of musk,

.

.

-

.

Extruct,of vanilla,

.

$ pint. 1

,

.

J

H

2. ounces.

This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with

an odor even after

it

it,

will still retain

has been washed.

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117

CIVET.

The

fact

is,

that both

mask and .ambergris

contain

a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal.

Powdered ambergris cassolettes

little

is

used in the manufacture of

ivory or bone boxes perforated

which are made, to contain a paste of strongismelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule in the

;

making of peau -d’Espagne, or Spanish

also skin,

used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and

which -will be described .hereafter. Civet.

—This substance

civetta, or civet cat.

is

It is

secreted

by

the Viverra

formed in a large double

Civet Cat.

glandular receptacle between the anus and the puden-

dum

of the creature.

Oriental origin,

it

was

Like,

many other

first

substances of

brought to

this

'

country

by the Dutch.

When

the civet cats are kept in a state of confine-

ment, which at one time was

common

in

Amsterdam,

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

118

they are placpd in strong cages, so constructed as to

prevent the animal from turning round and biting the person employed in collecting the secreted sub-

This operation

stance.

is

said to be performed twice

done by scraping out the civet with a

a week, and

is

small spoon

about a drachm at a time

A good

:

deal of the civet

markets

is

thus obtained.

is

now brought,

to

European

from Calicut, capital of the province of

Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates. In

its

pure state, civet has, to nearly

a most disgusting odor finitesimal port.on, its difficult

perfume

to ascertain the reason

stance, modified

all

but when diluted

;

is

persons,

-to

an

agreeable..

why

the

in-

It is

same sub-

only by the quantity of matter

presented to the nose, Bhould produce an opposite effect

on the olfactory nerve

with nearly which,

if

all

smelled

cases, positively

at,

fragrance

is

but such

are far from nice,

.nasty—such

of thyme, otto of patchouly

thousand times

;

is

the case

odorous bodies, especially with ottos,

its

volume of

delightful.

;

and

in

some

as otto of neroli, otto

but

if

diluted with

oil, spirit,

&

&c., then their

-

Otto of rose to many- has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the homoeopathic quantities as

from a single rose-bloom, who admit that “the rose is

best imparted, not

is if

it

rises

that will not

is sweet?� The odor of civet by actual contact, but by being

placed in the neighborhood of absorbent' materials.

Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being covered with

silly

and placed

in a writing-desk,"

perfumes the

paper and envelopes delightfully, and so

much

so,

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MUSK. thqjt

119

they retain tho odor after passihg througfh the '

post.

-

Extract of Civet

prepared by rubbing in a

is

mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that

up or divide the civet

to break

;

will assist

and then placing

the whole into a gallon of rectified

spirit's;

after

macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a “ fixing” ingredient; in mixing

dvet more than English manu-

of.

who seem

facturers,

From

The Frehch perfumers

of delicate odor.

essences

use the extract

a quarter of

a.

prefer’ extract

to

pint to -half a’jiint

of

that ought to be mixed with a gallon of

perfume.

Castor its

is"

a secretion of the ^Castor fiber, or beaver,

Though we have

civet.

an animal' secretion

follicles

;

it. is

.*

substance, like civet,

contained in excretory

about the navel of the male animal.

.perfumery trade these

and

as imported

the

musk

which

often heard

being used in perfumery, we do not personally

know that such is the case. Musk. -This extraordinary is

any other

'

very similar to of

musk.

the Utmost

is

it is

is

it

little

is

oalled ‘‘pod

separated from

contained,

In the

bags are called “ pods,”

it is tfcen

musk.”

the skin

or

called “grain

When sack in

musk.”

The musk- deer [Moschua moschatus) is an inhawhich belts the

bitant of the greQt mountain range

north of India, and branches out into

and China. And

it is

also

Siberia-,

Thibet,

found in the Altaic range,

near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges,

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.

THg ART or perfumery.

120

but always, on the borders of the line of perpetual snow. is

It is

from the male animal only that the musk '

produced.

»

Musk It formerly

and

is

still

Rod, %ctual, size.

wUs held

so

in

high repute as a medicine,

among Eastern

nations.

from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, that from. Bengal still

[single

animal varies with the season

of the year and the age of the animal.

musk pod

The musk

most esteemed,

and from Russia is of The strength and the quantity

lower quality.

produced by a

is

is inferior,

A

single

usually contains from two to three*drachms

Musk

of grain musk.

is

imported into England from

China, in caddies of, from. 50 to 100 ounces each.

When

adulterated with the animal’s blood, which

often the- case,

it

forms into lumps dr clots;

it

is

•.

is*

sometimes also mixed with a dark, friable earth. •

,

Those pods

in

which

little

pieces of lead are dis-

?

covered, as a general rule, yield the finest quality of

musk

;

upon

this rule,

we presume

that the best

musk

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MUSK.

121

most worthy of adulteration.

is 'the

Musk

is

re-

markable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of

its

scent

by

;

it,

everything in

its viefinity

and long retains

actual contact with

its

soon becomes affected

odor, although

not in

it.

It is a fashion of

tho present day for people to •

say “that they do not like musk;” but, nevertheless,

from great experience

in

one of the largest

manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that the public taste for

any perfumer it

desires.

musk

is

as great as

Those substances containing

always take the preference in ready sale

— so

long

as the.vcndor takes care to assure his customer “ that

there

is

no musk in

it.”

The Musk

The perfumer uses musk

Deer.

principally in the scent-

ing of soap, sachet powder, apd in mixing for liquid

perfumery.

The

Windsor soap odor.

is

The soap

just reputation of Paris’s original

due, in the main, to is,

its

delightful

doubtless, of the finest quality, 11

•’

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122 but

TIIE

ART OF PERFUMERY.

perfume stamps

its

grance

The

among

it

owes to musk.

it

the elite

its fra-

.

.

alkaline reaction of soap

favorable to the

is

development of the odoriferous principle of musk. If,

however, a strong solution of potass be poitred^n

musk, ammonia

to grain

true

musk

is

developed instead of the -

smell.

*

*

Extract ok Mcsk. Grain musk, Rectified

2 oz.

'

spirit,

-1 gallon.-

.

After standing for one month, at a summer temperature,

is fit

it

which

is

to

draw

Such

off.

extract of

musk which

prepared thus

prepared for

is

that

-an extract is

used for mixing in other perfumes.

-

That

retail sale,, is

:

Extrait de Mcsc. Extract of musk (as above),

ambergris,

u

rose triple,

Mix and

filter it

;

it is

This preparation

is

musk made According more

..

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 pint.

I .

.

.

then

fit

$

.

for bottling.

sweeter thafl pure extract of to our first formula,

profitable to the vendor.

and

is

also

It will be -seen here-

after that the original extract of

musk

is

principally

used for a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give

permanence

customers re-

to a volatile odor;

quiring, in a general way, that which

is

namely, that a perfume shall be strong

incompatible, to smell,

t.

e.

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jr

.very volatile,

and that

MUSK.

123

shall

remain upon the hand-

it

kerchief for a long period, ergo, not volatile

!

Small

portions of extract of musk, mixed with esprit de rose, violet, tuberose,

and

attain this object; that

others, do, in a measure,

is,.

after the violet, &c., has

evaporated, the handkerchief

still

retains an odor,

which, although not that of the original smell, yetgives satisfaction, because

organ.

# .

.

it is

+

.

pleasant to the nasal


THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.

124

SECTION

Y.

Ammonia.

“Preston

Salts,”

Under the

“ Smelling

vaxiou§. titles of

Salts,”

“Inexhaustible

Suits,”

“ Eau do Luce,” “ Sal Volatile,” ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively

consumed

as material for gratifying the olfac-

tory nerve.

The perfumer liquid

amm.

uses Uq.

fortis, that is,

strong

ammonia, and the sosqui-carbonate of am-

monia, for preparing the various “salts” that he sells. These materials he does not atteippt to make ; in fact,

it

quite out of his province so to do, but

is

he procures them ready for his hand through some

The

manufacturing chemist. smqlling-bottles

Salts, which

is

what

is

best

preparation for

termed Inexhaustible

prepared thus

is

:

-

Liquid ammonia, Otto of rosemary,

• .

.

.

.

,.

.

.

English lavender,

.

.

.

.

.

1

.1 pint. .1 drachm. .

1

bergamot,

£

cloves,'

i

Mix the whole

together with

agitation

“ “

in a very

strong and well-stoppered bottle.

This mixture

is

used by

filling

the smelling-bottles

with any porous absorbent material, such as asbestos, or,

what

is

better,

sponge cuttings, that have been

well beaten, washed,

and

dried.

These cuttings can

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'•

wvv

\ XT*

"*^7

'

1

*

|

INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS.

125

be procured at a nominal price from any of the spongo-dealers, being the trimming or roots of the

Turkey sponge, which are cut

the mer-

off before

7

chants send

it

into the retail market.

.bottles are filled with the

sponge,

it

After the

is

thoroughly

saturated with the scented ammonia, but no more

poured in than the sponge bottles are inverted

;

monia runs out and fabrics,

•happens, the person

When

as, if

who

the sponge

is

by any

spilt

is

over

When

causes a stain.

it

sold

is

when

the

(jhance the

am-

retain,

will

colored

certain

such an accident invariably blamed.

it is

properly,

.saturated

it

will

retain the

ammoniacal odor longer than any other

material;

hence,

way are

we presume,

bottles filled in this

inexhaustible,” which name, how-

called

more than two or three warm hand soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they ever, they do not sustain %

*

months with any credit require to be refilled.

9

the

;

*

For transparent colored

.

bottles, instead of sponge,

the perfumers use what they call salts (sulphate of potass).

The

insoluble crystal

bottles being filled

with crystals, are covered either with the liquid am-

monia, scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. ^The

necks of the battles are

white cotton

;

.

otherwise,

filled

wh$n

with a

inverted,

piec’e

of

from the

non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia

runs out, and causes complaints to be made. crystals

are prettier

in

colored bottles than

The the

sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome, and, as before observed, ' 11 *

it

holds the

.X >4

,


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

126

'

ammonia

i

better than any other material.

Perfumers

White Smelling Salts, and The White Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which sell also

what

is

called

Preston Salts.

is

mixed any perfuming otto that

thought

is

fit,

lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfaction.

.

Preston Salts, which ammoniacal compounds; decomposable

salt

is

the cheapest of

the

all

composed of some easily of ammonia and lime, such as equal is

parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate'

of ammonia, and

compound, rammed

hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto

For

the top prior to corking.

French lavender, or

We

well.

When

of fresh-slaked lime.

bottles arc filled with this

this

is

in

the

very

poured

-on

purpose otto of

otto of bergamot,’ answers very

need scarcely mention that the corks are

dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax,

that

red or black wax dissolved in

is,

portion of ether

is

added.

compound of ammonia that

is

sold in

alcohol, to which a snlall

The only

other

the perfumery trade

is

Eau de Luce, though properly When correctly made

it 'belongs

to the druggist.

which

very rarely the case

is

markable odor of

oil

Eau

i>e

Tincture "ofbenzoin or, “ balsum of Peru, ;

.

Qtto of la vbnder,

.

Oil of amber,

.

„<

/

retains the re-

»

'

racteristfc.

Liquor ammonia,

it

of amber, which renders

.

Luce.

.

it

cha-

r

.

»

.

.

.

\

.

.

.

. .

j

-

*

oz“

) ,.

.... ... .......

.

10 drops.

5

u

i

2"oz.

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.

127

it

must

henry’s vinegar. If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but

not be. filtered, as

it

should have, the appearance of a

milk-white emulsion.

Acetic Acid and its Use' in Perfumery. The pungency of the odor of -vinegar naturally brought it

into the earliest use in the art of perfutnery.

The

evolved by distilling acetate of

acetic acid,

copper (verdigris),

is

the true u aromatic” vinegar of

the old alchemists.

^

The modern aromatic vinegar

is

the concentrated

acetic acid aromatized with various ottos,

camphor,

&c„ thus Akomatic Vinegar. Concentrated acetic acid,

8 oz.

Otto of English lavender, 11

“ “

11

2 drachms.

....... rosemary,

‘‘cloves,

camphor,

. .

.

.

First dissolve the bruised acid, then

add the perfumes

1

;

.

'

.

1

1 oz.

.

camphor

and

is

the acetic

in

after refraining together

for a few days, with occasional agitation,

strained,

drachm. «

1

.

then ready for use.

it

to

is

be

Several forms for the pfeparatiort of this substance

have been published, almost

all

of which, however,

appear to complicate and mystify a process that all simplicity.

The most popular

*

strticle

is

Henry's Vinegar. Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each,

.

.

'

4 oz.

Bruised nutineg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each,

.

.

Alcohol (rectified),

Concentrated acetic acid,

-

."

.

.

is •

of this kind

} oz.

4

oz.

16 oz.


:

TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.

128

Macerate the materials for a day in the

spirit;

then add the acid, and digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14° C. or 15° C. Finally, press out the

new aromatized

As. this mixture

acid,

And

filter it.

.

must not go into the ordinary me-

tincture press, for the obvious reason of the

tallic

chemical action that would ensue,

much common as

of the liquor

away

and then

funnel,

Os

we

it is

can,

best to drain

by means of a

to save the residue

thQ interstices of the herbs, by tying them linen cloth,

and subjecting them

to pressure

from

tip in ‘a

by means

of an ordinary, lemon-squeezer, or similar device. VlNAlGRE A LA ROSE. Concentrated acetic acid, Otto of roses,

\

'.

..*

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

oz.

.

1

.

i drachm.

Well shaken together. It

is

obvious that vinegars differently perfumed

may

bo made'.in a similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto of roses.

All these

concentrated vinegars are used in the same

way

as

perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental “ smelling” bottle, previously

filled

with crystals o£ sulphate of potash,

which forms the “

upon sponge into from

had

who

their

sel

de vinaigre” of the shops; or

little silver

French

boxes, called vinaigrettes,

The use of

origin.

these vinegars

their origin in the presumption of keeping those

carried

them from

idle effects

of infectious. dis•

ease, doubtless springing out of the story of the thieves’ vinegar,”

which

is

four,

thus rendered in Lewis’s

Dispensatory

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FOEE THIEVES" VIXEGAE. 4‘

129

said that during the plague at Marseilles,

It is

four persons, tv the use of this preservative, attended,

unhurt, multitudes of those that were affected

under the color of these

services, thev

;

that

rotted both

the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards ap-

prehended, one of them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the prophylactic (a '

very likely story

!

YrsAicEK des qvatex •Take fash tops of

I),

.

Lavender

:

Ob Fors Thieves' Yixegab.

common wormwood. Roman

wormwood, rosemary, each,

which was as follows

Y olev&s.

.

safe, mint,

and .

.

.

rue, of

.'-.1

oz.

1 oz.

flowers,

Garlic, calamus aromatic as, cinnamon, cloves,

and nutmeg, each, Camphor, . .

.

.

.

.

'

*

.

.

.1

.

.

Alcohol or brand*, *

Strong vinegar,

Digest

all

spirit, in

the

materials, except

.

drachm.

I oz. 1

oz.

4 pints.

the camphor and

a closely covered vessel for a fortnight, at a

summer heat; then

express and

the vinaigre

filter

produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved in the

brandy or

spirit.”

A

very similar and quite as effective a preparation

may

be made by dissolving the odorous principle of

the plants indicated in a mixture of alcohol and acetic acid.

Such preparations, however, are more within There

the province of the druggist than perfumer. are,

however, several preparations of vinegar which

are sold to some extent for mixing with the water for

lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors .

er

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

130

Eau do

deavoring to place them in competition with Cologne, but with

Among them may

little avail.

be

enumerated *

*

l

Hygienic or Preventive Vinegar.

.1

Brandy, Otto of cloves,

.

.

1

...

marjoram,

Gum

benzoin,

pint.

drachm. “

1

»

lavender,

.

. -.

.

.

.

_

.

1 oz.

.

Macerate these together for a few hours, then *

add-r—

*

.

Brown

vinegar,

and strain or

.

2 pints.

.

requisite, to be bright.

filter, if

4 m

Toilet Vinegar (a la Extract of cassie, u orris, .

.

Esprit de rose,

.

Violette).

J pint.

.

triple,

White wine vinegar,

.

.

.

.

.

. *

,.

.

Toilet Vineqar (d

.

,

.

.

.*

i

.

i

,2

.

la Hose).

Dried rose-leaves, Esprit de rose,

4 oz.

triple,

White wine vinegar,

Macerate filter

and

“ “ pints.

.

.

.

.

in a close

#

vessel

bottle for sale.

.

.

.

..

.

.

.

J purt.

.2

.

pints.

for a fortnight, then •

<-

.

Vinaigre de Cologne.

To eau de Cologne, Add, strong acetic

acid,

1 pint,

...

.

.

.

i oz.

Filter if necessary.

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PERFUMED VI5EGARS.

131

Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulae, it

will

fl,ower

be obvious to the reader that vinegar of any

may

be prepared in a similar way to those

above noticed vinaigre

it

thus, for vinaigre a la jasmine, or for

;

la fleur d’orange,

tute the

esprit

d’orange,

in.

we ‘have only

place of the

Eau de Cologne,

orange-flower or 'jasmine Vinegars; latter articles are not in

for explaining is

to substi-

de jasmine, or the esprit de

fleur

to produce

however, these

demand, and our only reason

how such preparations may be made,

in order to suggest the

methods of procedure to

any one desirous of making them leading

articles in

their trade.

We

perhaps

economy gars

is

in the

may

observe, en passant, that where

production of any of the

toilet vine-

a matter of consideration, they have only to

be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable strength required.

Any

of the perfumed vinegars that are required to

produce opalescence, when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic as above.

vinegar,

Either myrrL, benzoin, storax, or tolu,

answer equally well.


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

132

SECTION

YI.

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. In the previous explain the

mode

we have endeavored

articles

to

of preparing the primitive perfumes

the original odors of plants.

It will

have been

observed, that while the majority can be obtained ,

under the form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty body.

Of

the latter. are included

with

'

among no

that are most prized,

all

the exception of otto of rose the odoriferous gems.

that

Practically,

diamond

we have

essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, Acacia,

What

Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others.

we know

is

derived from esprits, ob-

oils or fats, in

which the several flowers

of the&e odors

tained from

have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards infusing such

fats

or oils in

alcohol.

-

Undoubtedly, these

odors are -the most generally pleasing, while those'

made

from the essential oils (i. e. otto), dissolved in spirit, The simple odors, are of a secondary character.

when when

isolated, are called

Essential Oils or Ottos

dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol,

;

by

the English they are termed Essences, and by the

French Extraits, or Esprits this rule.

Essential

peel, are frequently

oil

;

a few exceptions prove

of orangc-pepl, and of lemon-

termed

in the trade

“ Essence”

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!

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.

133

of orange and “Essence” of lemons,5 instead of essential, oil

is

that

correct

used in perfumery, as well as in the

and the fewer blunders

allied arts, the better,

made

The sooner the

or otto of lemons, &c.

nomenclature

in the dispensatory.

It

will

be

appears to the writer,

the nomenclature of these substances were

if

revised,

it

would be serviceable

and he would sug-

;

gest that,- as a significant, brief, amd comprehensive

term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that such

and such a body

We

plant.

oil

will be Seen

word otto

is

the odoriferous principle of the

should then have otto of lavender' instead

of essential

of lavender, &c. &e.

“ essential

in place of

with his views.

Where there

essential oil in a fat significant distinction

oil

this

work

it

oil,”

in accordance

exists a solution of

an

oil,

the necessity of some such

is

rendered obvious,, for com-

mercially such, articles are

jasmine,

In

that the writer has generally used the

of roses, &c..

called “oils”

still

It

oil

of

cannot be expected that

the public- will use the words

<l

fat” oil and “essen-

tial” oil, to distinguish these differences of

composi-

tion.

There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants should not be denominated oils.

class of substances the

bad same

belonging to another.

Surely,

In the

first

place, it is a

ftriiMiple to give

signification

there

distinguishing qualities in their

are

any

as those

enough

composition, their

physical character, and chemical reaction, to warrant the application of a significant class of substances

known

as the

name

to

that large

aroma of plants

12

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— ;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

134

When

the chemical nomenclature was last revised,

the organic bodies were that

we owe

much

in

but a

of

its

little

this universal

the

little

same way as “

spirit” hap

know

been used,

consideration quickly indicates the folly

continued use./

We

can no longer

rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential

mary or

We

dealt with.

“ oil” to the old alchemist,

nutmegs,- with any

call otto of

of rose-

oil

more propriety than we

can term sulphuric acid “bil” of

All the

vitriol.

chemical works speak of the odoriferous bodies as

“ essential” ar “ volatile” oils, and of the greasy Oils, properly bodies as “ fat” op “ unctuous” oils. so called, unite with salifiable bases and -form soap

whereas the essential or volatile

would please

to call the ottos, tlo

oils,

i.

e.

what we

On

no such thing.

the contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances.

The word

oil

bodies to whieh

must hereafter be confined its literal meaning refers

to those

unc-

fat,

tuous, inodorous (tflien pure), greasy substances

and can no longer he applied to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diametrically opposite

to

fixed its

oil.

'.We have grappled with “

meaning

in a chemical sense

longer “spirit” of

Salt,

or “spirit”

Let us no longer have almond oil “ unctuous,” and the like.

oil

;

1

spirit,’

'

and

we have no

of hartshorn.

“essential,” almond

It remains only for us to complete the

branch of

perfumery which relates to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulae for preparing the most favorite “ bouquets” and “ nosegays.” These, as

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.

135

BOUQUETS.

before stated, are but mixtures of the Simple ottos in spirit,

and

which, properly blended, produce an agreeable

characteristic odor,

— an

effect

upon the smelling

nerve Similar to that which music or the mixture of

harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.

«.

.

The iV'HAMHRA PeRTUMB, Extract of ttibereuse,

u

.

1

geranium,

.

i

&C(lCl3|

i

V

fleur d’orange,

«

civet,

\

pint-

“ “ “

.

.

TnE Bosphorus Bouquet. Extract of acacia,

1 pint.

jasmine,

rose triple,

_

flcur.d’orange,

lt

“•

civet,

.

Otto of almopda,

.

.

'

of each,

i

i

*

tubereuse, .

.

10 drops.

Bouquet

d’ Amour. «

Esprit do rose, '

“ *

“ “

jasmine, )

from pomade, of each,

.

1 pint.

cassie, >•

“.

*

violette,

Extract of musk, of each,

•.

i

ambergris,

Mix and

filter.

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.

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

136

Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d’Andorre. Extrait de jasmine, u rose, It

from pomade, of each,

violette,

U

1

pint

1

*

-

tuberose,

Extract of orris,

.

Otto of geranium,

1 oz.

%

#

Buckingham Palace Bouquet. Extrait de fleur d'orange,

u

.

cassie,

u a

from pomade, of each,

jasmine,

Extract of orris, “ ambergris,

1

of each,

.

j

Otto of neroli,

u

lavender,

rose,

.

Bouquet de Caroline Extrait do rose,

i drachm.

..

i

.

r

«

also called Bouquet, des Delices.

;

violette,

from pomade, of each,

{

pint

1

tuberose, J

Extract of

pint

1

rose,

_

1

orris,

°.

ambergris,

Otto of bergamot,

eaC

«

i

j

>

Limette,

t

cedtet,

j

of each,

.

,

...

1

oz.

The Court tNosEG ay. 0

Extrait de rose,

u

)

violette,

l

of each,

.

*

Esprit de rose triple, I Extract of musk,a , of each, ’ “ ambergris, rgris, J

1.

'

Otto of lemon, “ bergamot, neroli,

)

-

of

“ ch ,

'

....

«

1 oz.

}.

pint

1,

jasmine, J

i “

}

1

drachm.

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by

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— BOUQUETS.

137

EaU BE C^YPUE. This,

is an-

old-fashioned French perfume, presumed

from the Cyper'm esculentus by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus ; the article sold, however, is made thus to he derived

Extract of musk, * “ ambergris, “

pint

.

1

i

.

2 pints.

1

vanill^,

tonquin bean,

of each,

orris,

Esprit de rose

triple,

The mixture thus formed

one of the most lasting

is

odors that can be made. Empress Eugenie's NosEOAf. Extract of mirek, “ vanilla, u tonquin,

\

*

-

of each,

.

i pint.

.

.

“ u

neroli,

rose triple, > of each,

.

0

geranium,

0

i

santal,

.

.

.

J

i .

»

.Esxerhazy Bouquet.

-

Extrait dc fleur d’orange (from pomade), Esprit depose triple,

.

,

Extract of vitivert, “ vanilla, “ orris,

of each,

.

.

1 pint.

.

1

.

2

tonquin,

Esprit de neroli.

Extract of ambergris, Otto of santal, “ cloves,

-* .

.... •

i

f

*

.

1

i

$ drachm.

.

••

i

12 *

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

138

Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it

is

the vitivert that gives this bouquet

Few perfumes have

character.

peculiar

its

excited greater furor

while in fashion. 1;

Ess Bocqvet. N.

The

reputation of this perfume has given rise to

numerous imitations of the original

Germany and

in

France

more par-

article,

many

In

ticularly on the continent.

of the shops in

be seen bottles labelled

will

by Bay ley and Co.,

in close imitation of those sent out

Cockspur Street, London, who

are, in truth, the ori-

ginal makers. Esprit de rose triple,

-

.

Extract of ambergris, “ . orris, Otto of lemons,

.

.

.

.

*

.

.

.

.

.

bergamot,

.

.

.

.

.

.1 pint

.

. .

.

.

.

2 oz. 8 “

1

.

1

“ “

The name “ Ess” bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere contraction of “essence” of bouquet.

*

'

Spirit (from grape),

Otto of “

• .

Eau de Cologne.

60 over proof,

neroli, Petdle ,

Bigarade,

rosemary, orange-peel,

bergamot-peel,

Mix with

quality.)

.

'

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

*6 •

gallons.

3 oz. “ 1 2 “

“ “ “

citron-peel,

(La premiere

.

agitation

5

6

4i

2 “

;

then allow

it

to stand for a

few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

X <

'

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)

139

BOUQUETS.

Eac de Cologne.

(La deuxieme

quality.)

Spirit (from corn)

v

Otto of-neroli, Petit-grain , “ Petale,

....

rosemary,

orange-peel,

lemon,

-

.

.

.

.

2 oz. « «

v

:

'

of each,

6 gallons.

.

.

.

.

i

.

2

.

4 “

.

f )

bergamot,

Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced

to the public as

a sort of

“cure-all,”, a

regular

now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say nothing, such maitter “elixir of life,”

it

being irrelevant to the purpose of

this hook.

Con-

sidered, however, as a perfume, with ^be public taste it

ranks very high

;

-and although

it

is

exceedingly

&nd evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called “ refreshing.” Whether this be due to the.rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, volatile.

but think something

may

be attributed to both.

One

important thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and that

is,

the quality of

its manufacture. The utter immaking brandy with English spirit in resemble the real Cognac, is well known.

the spirit used in possibility of

any way It

is

to

equally impossible to

English

spirit, to

make Eau de Cologne with article. To

resemble the original'

speak of the “purity” of French spirit, or of the “ impurity” of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact

is,

that spirit derived from grapes,

and

spirit

obtained from corn, have each so distinct and charac-

/

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140

ART OF PERFUMERY.

TIIE

an aroma, that the one -cannot bo mistaken for the other. The odor of grape spirit is said to teristic

be due to English fusel

the- ocanfhic ether

So powerful

oil.

French

spirit,

which

it

contain^.

on the other hand, owes

spirit,

'

The

odor to

its

the oeanthic ether in the

is

that notwithstanding the addition to

it

of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos

of neroli, rosemary, and others,

gives a cha-

it still

to the products mp.de containing

racteristic perfunfe

and hence the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance.

it,

^Although very

Eau de Cologne

fine

by merely mixing the ingredients recipe as above, yet citrine

ottos with spirit, -and then to

ture, afterwards

and

often

is

made

as indicated in the

is better, first, to

it

mix

distil

all

the

the mix-

adding to the .distillate the rosemary

ncrolies, such process

being the one adopted by

the most popular house at Cologne.

A

great

many forms

for the manufacture of

Eau

de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of

the'

recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a

practical sense, of

on paper

;

what they were putting by theory

other venturers, to show their lore, have

searched out

all

the aromatics of Lindley’s Botany,

and would persuade us

to use .absinthe, hyssop, anise,

juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin,

cardamom,

cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender,

camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.

.

^

All these, however, are but is

a mere matter of

profit,

hum

!

Where

it

and the formula that we

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*

BOUQUETS. have given required,

a weak

better to dilute the said Cologne with'

it is

or with rose-water, rather than other-

spirit,

wise alter

its

141

too expensive to produce the article

is

form

because, although weak, the true

;

aroma of the original article is retained. The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show that a ver$r decent article can be produced with English

*

spirit.

'

Flowers or Erin.

.

*

Extract of white rose (see u vanilla, .

White Rose), •

*

1 pint.

. •

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Royal Hunt Bouquet. Esprit de rose triple,

.

i

u u

'

u a it

neroli,

1.

pint.

*

B

acapia, fleur d'orarige,

of 6ach,

.

1

'

musk, orris,

>

tonquin,

Otto of citron.

.

.

*

Bouquet de Flora

*

*

.

.

'

.

i

.

2 drachms.

otherwise, Extract op Flowers.

;

Esprit de rose,

“ “

tubereuse,

from pomade, of each,

Otto of bergamot^ “ '°” 0n ’

1

.

pint.

violette,

Extract of benzoin,.

orange,

.

.

.

.

.

.

j’

1

of each,

.

»

,

2

.

,

ljoz.

.

.

.

4

“ “

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THE

112

OF PERFUMERY.

AltT

The Guards' Bouquet. Esprit de rose, *

P

.

neroli,

Extract of vanilla, “ orris,

musk, Otto of cloves,

.

Fleur

d’Italie; or Italian Noseuay. ’

Esprit de rose, from pomade,“ rose triple) . .

jasmine,

lC

violette,

|

frora P omadc >

/

of eaeh*

tubereuse,

ambergns,-

(English formula

.

.

.

.

.

.

Pomade, of each, .

.

.

;

.

.

.

.

^

.

.

-

(French formula.)

de pomade*

tubereuse,

.

,

1

Jockey Club Bouquet. rose*,

/

Otto of bergamot,

-

v

E^trait de cassie,

“•

.

Esprit de rose, triple, . “ rose de pomade,

Esprit de

each >

....

.

Jockey Club Bouquet. orris, root

.

.

I

ambergris,

Extract of

.

I

Extract of cassie, “ musk,

«

> .

•.

'

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1

.

1

.

$

1

cassie,

jpamjae,

\

Extract of civet,

pint.

“ “

.

3 oz.

Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe,

it

must be

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143

BOUQUETS. all

of brandy,

grape

i.

e.

whereas the English

spirit;

perfumes are made with corn

spirit,

which alone

Though good- for some mixtures,

modifies their odor.

yet for others the grape spirit .

made

the French perfumes are

remembered that

very objectionable,

is

on account of the predominance of

its

own aroma.

We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit

;

the

employed.

is

Owing

French say, of

distinction

made according

of British and Parisian perfumes the same recipes

marked

to

entirely due to the different spirits

to the strong

“ bouquet,” as the

their spirit in comparison with ours,

the' continental perfumers claim a superiority in the

quality of their perfumes.

Now, although we candidly

admit that some odors are better when prepared with grape

spirit

than with that from corn

spirit,

are others which are undoubtedly the best 1

pared with spirit derived from the

yet there

when

latter source.

require to retain their true aroma alcohol,

when

must be made with the British

pre-

Musk,

ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine,

if

we

in solution in spirit.

All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau

de Cologne,

Eau

de Portugal,

Eau

d’ Arquebuzade,

lavender, can alone be brought to perfection

the French spirit in their manufacture.

jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be

French or brandy of the flower

is

spirit,

and

by using

If extract of

made with

the

the true characteristic odor

lost to the olfactory nerve-^-so

com-

pletely does the ocanthic ether of the grape spirit hide

the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it.

This solves the paradox that English extract of

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;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

144 yiolet all

and

its

compounds, “spring flowers,” &c.,

demand on

times in

On to

the contrary,

make Eau de

if

is

at

the Continent, although the

very flowers with which we make

it

are

grown

there.

an English perfumer attempts

Portugal, &c., to bear any compari-

son as a fine odor to that without using grape

made by Lubin,

spirit, his

of Paris,

attempts will prove a

makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article and they alone can stamp its merit—^discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between “Patent British” and foreign brandy. True,

failure.

Perhaps that what in

it

is

fie

may

not be out of place here to observe

sold in this country as British

truth grape spirit, that

is,

brandy

is

foreign brandy very

largely diluted with English spirit

!

By this

a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor

scheme, is

main-

tained; the difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the

makers of the “ capsuled”

article to

undersell those tfho veqd the unsophisticated Cognac.

Some

chemists, not being very deep in the

tricks

of trade,” have thought that some -flavoring, or that ccanthic ether,

Cognac aroma. called

was used

An.

to impart to British spirit the

article is

even in the market

“Essence of Cognac,” but which

more than very badly made butyric

On

by the fermentation

way

nothing

procured

and is England

into the market,

often mixed with the grape spirit spirit

is

of the molasses from beet-root

this, of course, finds its

we have

is

ether.

the Continent a great deal of spirit

;

so, also, in

from potatoes, which

is

mixed

in the

Digitized by


)

145

BOUQUETS,

we may

These adulterations, if spirit* modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols.

corn it,

so term

A

Japanese Perfume. '

"Extract of rose triple, 1 it-

u

cedar,-

it

*

of each,

:

r • •

*•

«

.

T£ew Garden Noseoat. (

...

vervaine,

Espsit d« neroli U cassie,

Pdale ),

•1 pint.

.

*

a

from pomade? of each,

i

*

j

it

*

’j

tubereuse, y

4( tt

* .“

.

.

a

} pint.

.

santal,

'

.

.... ..

patchouly,

u

%

_

vitivefly

U

asinine,

J *

geranium,

musk, ambergris,

<

,

" •»

.

,

.

.

*

.

3 oz.

|

1

of each,

;

'•

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

146

These ingredients are to remain together

for at

least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale. MlI.LBFI.EUKS ET LAVENDER.

.

Essence of lavender (Mitcham),

Eau

...

.

4 pint.

!•“

des millefleurg,

Decroix’s Milleflower Lavender. from grape,

Spirits

French

.

otto of lavender,

.

.

.

.

...

...

1 pint. 1 oz.

.

Extract of arhbergris,

2 oz. •

The

original

Delcroix

its

;

“ lavender aux

millefleurs”

is

that of

peculiar odor is due to the French otto

of lavender, which, although some folks like

it, is

very-

inferior to Ihe 'English otto of lavender;

hence the

formula

by the

ventor,

first

and

given

far superior to that

is

in-

almost superseded the original pre-

,has

parations.

There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender

is ttie leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and

ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and rnanSchalc, &Q., all of which are

composed of

fine spirituous

any

essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent, of

of the other ingredients*

Bouquet du Marechale. Esprit de rose 'tfri pie,

*

» -

.

*

)

Extrait de fleur d’orange,

0 f eac fc

1 pint.

'

J

vitivert,

u

vanilla,

a

orris,

u

tonquih,

of each,

1

*

Esprit de ncroli,

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«

.

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS, Extract of mask, “ ambergris, ‘

Otto of cloves, “ santal,*

)

147

, '

i pint.

.

i ,

ofe

)

e

_

)

i drachm.

.

"

/

Eac de Mousselaine. ’

Bouquet mtlr^chale,

.

.

.

‘ '

'

.

.

.1

pint,

Extrait de cassie,

u

'

jasmine,

u

tuhcreuso.

u

rose,

Otto of santal,

from pomade, of each,

J

.

.2 drachms.

.

Bouquet de Moxtpellibr. Extrait

cfe

tubereuse,

.

«

rose de pomade,

K

rose triplej

Extract of musk, “ am barf

«

.

of each, ris,

1 pint.

, •

.. .

.

.

1

1

i

.

1

0

"

Otto of cloves, “ bergamot,

1J drachin.

.

.

oz.

Caprice de la Mode. Extrait de jasmine, u tubereuse,

of each,

u

i pint.

.

cassie,

tl

fleur d’oraqge,

Otto of almonds,

nutmegs,

Extract of civet,

.

10 drops,

.

10

4 .

.

1 pint.

May Flowers. Extract of rose (de pomade), “ “

jasmine, of each, -

fleur d’orange,

cassie,

vanilla,

Otto of almonds,

£ pint.

.

.

1

.

1

drachm.

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.

*

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

148

Neptune, or Naval Nosegat. ‘

Extrait de rose, triple, “ santal,

.

u

*.

'Of each,

patchoulj, J

J pint.

*

\

vitivert, . «

verbena,

'

Bouquet of all Nations. Countries wherein the Odors nr# produced. .

Turkey,

Esprit de rose triple,

.... England, Franck, ....

... Extract of jasmine, “ lavender, . “ tube reuse, .

Africa,

.

.

.

South America,

.... ....

Timor, Italy,

.

.

.

Tonquin,

.

.

.

santal,

.-

.

.

.

patchouly,

Otto of citronella,-

.

Extract of orris,

santal,

«

rose,

t

r .

Bouquet du Roi.

r

.

1

i

“ “

'

drachm

1

i oz.

.

J

pint. ••

.

'

k

.

.

;

....

.

*> “

.

.

..

Wight Bouquet.

vitivert,

.

....

lemons,

Extract of musk,

.

Isle of

.

.

violet,

.

....

Sardinia,

-

11

IIlXDOOSTAN,

Ceylon,

w

vanilla,-.

.

\ “ \ “

.

.

.

.

.

.

i pint.

.

..

.

J pint. „

1

t

1

i

“ ‘1

*

.

Extract of jasmine, “

violet,-

rose,

vanilla,

from pomade, of each,

-

of each,

.

.

.

I of each,

.

.

.

} pint.

vitivert,

musk, ambergris,

Otto of bergamotr, “

1 pint,'

.

-

.

cloves,

.

.

) • •

1 oz.

•it* •

*

1 oz. 1

drachm.

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,

'

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.

149

Bouquet de la Reive. Esprit de rose, r0se ’

de

Extrfiit

i

from pomade, of each,

}

tubereuse,

.

fleur d’orange,

.

Otto of bergamot,

.

1 pint.

hr

i

.

4 oz.

!

;

.

-

$

Rondeletia.

_

.

.

Violetta, j

The perfume bearing

above

the

name

is

un-

doubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever

made.

been

Its

Hannay and Dietrichsen, name of this odor from the

Messrs*

taken the

htivc

inventors,

probably

Rondelctia, the

Chyn-len of the Chinese-; or from the R. odorata of the

West

Indies, which has a sweet odor.

before observed that there

is

We

have

a similarity of effect

upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources for

instance,

otto

of almonds

may

:

that,

be mixed with

extract of violet in such proportion that, although

the odor

is*

the viole£

is

inereased, yet the character peculiar to

Again

not destroyed.

odors which,

ert

duce a new aroma, perfectly itself.

:

there are certain

being mixed in due proportion, pro-

This effect

is

distinct,

and peculiar to

exemplified by comparison with

when mixed, upon the nerve of vision such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green ; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known the influence of certain colors :

as puce or yiolet.

Now when

the odor of lavender and odor of cloves

are mixed, they produce a 13 *

new

fragrance,

i. e.

Ron-


THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

150 deletia reality

such combinations that constitute in “ a new perfume,” which, though often adverIt

!

is

very rarely attained , J Jasmine artd patohouly

tised, is

produce a novel aroma, and. many others in like

manner; proportion and mixed, must of course be

when

relative strength,

studied,

-

otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit,

mixed

be

the solution

strongest odor

is

so

and the substances any given

If the'same quantity of

used accordingly.

equal

in

proportions,

hiding the presence of the other.

and the

by covering 6r

instantly indicated

way we

In. this

discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena

are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse,

Many

and jasmine are the most

persons will at

first

consider

delicate.

that

we are

asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to

,

the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures

and

pains.

By

tutoring the olfactory nerve,

it

is

capable of perceiving matter in the -atmosphere of the

most subtle nature

:

not only that which

is

pleasant,

but also such as are unhealthful.'. If an unpleasant

a

warning

odor

is

it is

worth while to cultivate that power which enables

to seek a

purer atmosphere, surely

us to act up to that warning for the general benefit' of health.

To return, however, to Rondeletia it will be seen by the annexed formulae, that, besides the main in:

gredients to which that nilla,

is,

-cloves

&c.

it

owes

peculiar character

its

and lavender

it

contains musk, va-

These substances are used in these as in

»

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)

.1

*•

.

*

.

151

COMPOUND ODORS.

nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing ‘

the more volatile odors to the handkerchief. Essexoe of Roxdeletia. Spirit (brandy 6Q o.p.),

1 gallon.

Otto of lavender, “ cloves, •. “ roses, .

.

1 oz.

4

3 drachms.

bergamot,

1 oz.

U3&, Extract of musk,

A

vanilla, '

*

L

each,

} pint.

.'

ambergris ibergrfs,

The mixture must he made at least a month before Very excellent Rondeletia may also it is-fit for sale. he made with English spirit. *l

.

f

• '

Bouquet Royal.

Extract of rose (from pomade),

1

pint.

^sprit de rqse,

\

triple,

Extract of jasmine, 41

violet,

.

)

from

cassie/

) each)

eachj

i

a

j cach)

Extract of musk, “ ambergris,

)

.

2£ oz.

..

)

Otto of lemons, “ bergamot,

'

d

,)

verbena,

;

J oz.

.

^

j

)

1

oz.

Suave.

.

Extract of tubereVise, it

u a

jasmine, •

cassie,

rose,

vanilla, tt

u

V

2 oz. •

musk,

from pomade,

each-,

.... each,

.

.

.

1 pint.

.

5 oz.

.•»

2 oz.

ambergris,

Otto of bergamot, cloves,

.

1 oz. 1

drachm.

rx


t

TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.

ir>2

Spring Flowers. Extract of 6 X & u violet, ’-l

u Li

-

from pomade, each,

.

2t oz.

.

2 drachms.

.

1 oz.

#

,

just reputation of this perfume places

ever been is

it

in

rank of the very best mixtures that have

first

odor

pinE

2 | ox.

cassie,

Otto of bergamot,

the

1

.

Extract of ambergris,

The

.

J

rose, triple,

made by any manufacturing perfumer.

truly flowery, but peculiar to

unlike any other aroma chiefly because there

with that at

all

it

itself.

Its

Being

cannot well be imitated,

nothing that we are acquainted

is

resembles the odor qf the esprit de f

rose,

as derived from

,

Inaceratiug

rose

pomade

in

which, and to the -extract of violet, nicely

spirit, to

counterpoised, so that neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of “ Spring' Flowers” little

ambergris that

the odor

is*

due

the

;

present gives permanence to

is

upon the hankerchief, although from the very

nature of the ingredients fleeting odor.

it

may

“ Spring Flowers”

invention, but there

is

is

be said to be a

an Englishman’s

scarcely a perfumer in ‘Europe

that does not attempt an imitation. Tblip Nosegay.

Nearly

\

all

the tulip tribe, although

the eye, are inodorous.

Van it

is

The

beautiful to

variety called the

Due

Thol, howeyer, yields an exquisite perfume, but

not used by the manufacturer for

of extracting

its

odor.

tl*e

purpose

He, however, borrows

its

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COMPOUND

thus

153

ODORS,

makes an

name, and

poetical

imitation

excellent

:

Extract of tubereuse, j from pomaJC) cach) “ violet, • )

rose,

orris,

.

Otto of almonds,

.

,

.

v

.

!

}

.

3 oz.

.

Under the head

‘.3

.

^ • YlOLCT-TE des Bois.

.

,

... ...

.

Violet,

*

pint.

.

-

'

.

drops.

we have already explained

the method of preparing the extract or essence of that

modest flower.

The Parisian perfumers

ture of violet,

which

title

of the

which

is

is

Violet des Bois,

made

or the

thus

sell

a mix-

very beautiful, under the

Wood

'

Extract of violet, ' “ orris,.

Violet,

'

1 pint.

3 oz.

cassie,

•“

rose (from pomade),

*

.

3 oz.

.

Otto of almonds,

3 oz. 3 drops.

This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet.

Wixdsor Castle Bouquet. AJcohol,-

1 pint,

.

%

Otto of nerolr, “ roso, “ lavender,

bergamot,

cloves,

each,

J »z.

8 drops.

.

Extract of orris,

1

jasmine,

each,

cassie,

|

musk,

)

ambergris,

pipt “

,

v each,

j

i

2J oz.

»


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

154

•;

Yacht

Cla’b Bocqc£t.

Extract of santal, “ neroli,

.

14

I

i

.

4 oz.

*

rose triple,

r

vanilla,

have now completed the branch of the Art of

Perfumery which or

pint. •

Flowers of benzoin,

We

1

.

jasmine,

relates to handkerchief perfumes,

wet perfumery. .Although we have rather too

much encroached upon giving the composition there are

many

Those that

artf

left

the space of this work in

of so

many

bouquets, yet

unnoticed which are popular.

given are noted more particularly for

the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected

from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried.

Those readers who require

to

know anything about them

the simple extracts of flowers ar6- referred to

under their respective alphabetical

titles.

/

V

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— DRY PERFUMES.

*

SECTION

155

VII.

.

*

.

.

The previous.articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes the present matter relates, to Dry ;

Perfumes,— sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. Ac. The perfunjes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs .

indigenous to the Eastern

hemisphere

that they

:

were very extensively used and much valued, we is this

that cemeth

frankincense, with

all the.

(Song of ’Solomon, 3

:

a sign of humiliation

a.

it

:

Abstaining from the

6.)

—“ The

shall

come

is

Lord

to- pass

considered as

will

Isaiah 3

;

:

20, 24.)

-

The word

take away

that instead of

sweet smell there shall be a stink.”

22

:

powders of the merchant?”

use of perfume in Eastern countries

the tablets, and

“ Who perfumed with myrrh and

have only to read the Scriptures for proofs

(Exod. 35:

tablets in this

made

passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid,

of metal, wood, and ivory.

Some

of these boxes

may have

been made in the shape of buildings, which would explain the word palaces, in Psalm 14 : 8 :

.“All thy garments smell of"myrrh,'and cassia, out of the ivory palaces,

made it

thpe glad.”

From what

is

and

aloes,

whereby they have said in Matt.

2

:

11,

would appear that perfumes were considered among

tine

most valuable

gifts

which

man

could bestow

;

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;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

156

“ And when they

men) had opened their

(the wise

they presented unto him (Christ) gifts and frankincense, and myrrh.” As far as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egyptians

treasures,

gold,

and Persians during the early period of the world were dry perfumes, consisting of spikenard (Nardostachys jatamami), myrrhj olibanum, and other

nearly

resins,

of which are

all

manufacturers .of

shown

Among,

odors.

Alnwick Castle

at

is

from an Egyptian catacomb.

gum-

use by the

in

still

the

curiosities

a vase that was taken It is full of

a mixture

of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a pleasant odor to

the present day, although probably

3000 years

old.

We

have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments, in

way

the same

-

that pot pourri

is

now

used.-

%

«-

-t

'

Sachet Powders.

The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk

hags, or ornamental

envelopes, find

a ready

sale,

being both- good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they

The following formula Shows Every material is either to be or powdfered in a mortar, and after-

drawers;

lie in

their composition.

ground wards

in a mill, '

sifted. •

Ground

,

'

.

v

Sach#:t au Cyprb,

rose-wood,

,

cedar-wood,

.

u

santal-wood,

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

...

I lb.

.

*

Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose,

1 lb. ** .

.

.3 drachtns.

Digitized


SACHET POWDERS.

Mix Rnd

sift

'

*

.

Sachet a la "Frangif/xxb. >

*

1

VLtiveM powder,

'

.

.

.

.

.

.

Santal-wood powder,.

*

i

",

Orris-root powder,

.

157

for sale.

fit

*

f

then

it is

;

'

,

i lb.

.

i lb.

.

•-

*

3 lbs-

.

*

.

.

-

.

.

Otto of neroli, “

of each,

rose, j.

.

The name of us

drachm.

.

1

4

1 oz.

santal,.

Musk-pods, ground,

.

has been handed down to

this sachet

being derived from a

as

Roman

of the

noble

Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as wo have family of Frangipani.

another article called

*

rosolis, or ros-solis, »uft-dew,

an

aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of

which he

is

wine, in which

musk.

composed of

said to be the inventor, is

steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and

.

Heliotrope Sachet. Powdered orris, . • * . Rose leaves, ground, . Toaquin beans, ground, Vanilla beans,

..

Grain musk,

.

,

*.

.

.

'.

.

. •

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

*

Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sale. «

fectly

1 lb.

I lbj

.•

i lb.

.

1

oz.*

6 drops.

.

*

si$ve, it is

fit

for

*

*

It is one'

its

.

...

Otto of almonds,

it

.

S lbs.

pf the best sachets made, and

is

so per-

au naturel

derives

its.

in its odor to the flower from which name, that no person unacquainted with

composition would, for an instant, believe

any other than the “real thing.”

it .

to be


.

158

THE ART OP PERFUMERY,

Lavender Sachet. Lfrvender flowers, ground, benzoia, in powder,

1 lb.

JGum

ik

J

Otto of I9 vendpr,

.

.

1 oz.

Sachet a la MabecHale.

Powder of “

santal-wood, orris-root,

.

J lb.

*

Jib.

Rose-leaves, ground, Cloves, ground, .

»*;._•

'

,

Jib..

.

J drachm.

,

,

Sachet a Vitivort, in powder,

IK.

J

J

Cassia-bark,

Gram musk, •

Jib.

>

Mocsselaine.

i,a

.

1 lb.

Santabwood,

-.

)

each,

Orris,

,

.

J

Otto of thyme, “ rbses,

( casse ),

*

.

...

.

i lb.

j -

.

*

ib.

;.

5 drops. •

.

.

-

ilb.

.

r

Black-currant leaves Benzoin, in powder,

.

i drachm.

Millwleur Sachet. Lavender-flowers, ground,

A

1

V

* ,

Orris,

Rose-leaves,

Benzoin,

Tdnquiu,

,

'

Vanilla, Santal,

.

-

each,

.

.

.

1

lb.

7,7

.

each,

,

J lb.

.-

Musk and

civet,

2 drachms..

Cloves, ground,

Cinnamon, Allspice,

J

lb.

2

oz.*'

J

j

eae k

<

t

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I

SACHET POWDERS. PtfttTro.M.

lemon-peel,

<l

orris-root,

Sachet.

...

Dried oraivge-peci, “

159

....

Otto of orange-peel, “ neroli, u lemon-grass,

1

.

.

.

.-

i lb. ill;. 1 Q/..

.

.

.

.

lb.

.

.

.

}

drachm. “

.

d

Patchovi.y Sachet. Patchouly herb, ground,

....

.

Otto of patchouly,

. -

Patchouly herb

is

as imported, tied

up

often sold

in

its

1

d

lb.

drachm.

natural

in bundles of half a

state,

pound each.

Pot Pounni. This

is

a mixture of dried flowers

and spices not

ground. Dried lavender,

Whole Crude

rose-leaves, 1

orris (coarse),

Broken doves, “ “

Table •

.

We

.

l

lb.

.

1

lb.

.

i lb.

>

cinnamon,

>

allspice,

)

salt,

....

.

each,

.

.

h oz.

.

.

need scarcely observe that the

salt is

1

lb.

only used

to increase

the hulk and weight of the product, in

order to

it

sell

cheap. Oli.a

This

is

Ponr.iDA,

a similar preparation to pot pound.

regular form can he given for

it,

as

it

is

No

generally

made, or “knocked up,” with the refuse and spent

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-

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

160

materials derived from other processes in the

manu-

facture of 'perfumery ; such as the spent vanilla after

the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla, or ,

of the grain musk from the extract of 'musk, orris from the tincture, tonquin. beans, after tincturation, &c.

mixed up with

&c.,

any

rose-leaves, lavender, or

odoriferoUs'herhs,

;

.

.

%?,>* Rose Sachet. Rose heels or

leaves',

.

Sautal-wood, ground,

Otto of roses,

.

.

.

.

.

.

1

.

.

.

.

J lb.

.

.

J oz.

.

lb.

.

.

Santaj.-wood Sachet.

This

is

a good and economical sachet,. and simply

ground wood.

consists' of the

Santal-wood

te be

is

purchased from some of the wholesale drysalters drug-grinders are the people, to reduce

you-~any attempt

for

do so at home wiH

to

unavailable, on account of

its

the

found

toughness. •

• i

;

to* powder

it

.

Sachet (without a name). Dried thyme, “

1

"

.

lemon thyme, mint,

marjoram,

lavender,'

rose heels,

Ground

cloves,

Allspice,

Musk

;

of each,

“ “

,

'

.

'

:

i

. .’

«•

.

.

.

«

*

#

.

.

ib.

1 lb.

.

2 oz.

.

2 oz.

* .

in grain,.

} lb,.

t

.1

drachm.

.


,

PERFUMED LEATHER.

161

Vervain Sachet. Lemon-peel, dried and ground, “ thyme, .

•.

.

.

Otto of lemon-grass, “

.

peel, m

bergamot,

_

.

t

.

.

,

1 lb.

.

i lb.

dracbm.

.

1

.

i oz.

.

1 oz.

»

Vitivert Sachet.

The

fibrous roots of tho

Anthoxanthum miiricatum

being ground, constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from tho Tarnool name, vittie vayer, Its oddr resembles and by the Parisian vetiver. myrrh. Yitivcrt is more often sold tied up in bunches,

as imported from India, than ground, and

is

used for

the prevention of moth, rather than as a perfume. Violet Sachet. Black-currant leaves

Rose heels or

.

Otto of almonds,

..

Grain musk,

(

Gum

cassc ),

leaves,

Orris-roof powder,

. .

,

.

lb.

2 lbs.

.

.

1 drachm.

.

.

Well mix the ingredients by

lb.

1

.

S

benzoin, in powder,

1

.

sifting;

1

4 lb.

keep them

together for a week in a glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale.

There are many other sachets manufactured besides those,

already given, but for actual trade- purposes

there

is

no advantage

than those named.

in

keeping a greater variety

There

are, however,

substances used in a similar is

way

;

many

other

tho most popular

the 14

"

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

1(52

Peao d’Eseagne,

.

Peau d’Espagnc, or Spanish '

skin,

is

nothing more

Good sound

than highly perfumed leather.

pieces

Wash leather are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos, in which aro dissolved some odoriferous gum-

‘of

resins, thug

:

— Otto

each half an ounce

of neroli, otto ;

.of rose, santal,

and cinnamon, of §ach two drachms thought

fit.

ounces of in

it

A paste

is

;

;

otto

o.f

cloves

with any others

In this mixture dissolve about two

.

gum

for a

of

otto of lavender, verbena, ber-

gamot, of each a quarter of an ounce

benzoin j now place the skin to steep .

day or

now

so,

to

then haDg

it

>

over a line to dry.

be made by rubbing in a mortar

one drachm of civet with one drachm of glam musk,

and enough solution of gum acacia or gum tragacantha a little of any of to give it a spreading consistence the ottoS that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &e., greatly assists in making the ;

.

whole of an equal body;

thfe

skin being cut up into,

pieces of . about four inches square are

then fo bo

spread over, plaster fashion, with- the last-named compost; two pieces being put together, having the civet plaster inside then), are then to

sheets of paper, weighed

thus for a week

;

finally,

or,

he

place'd

between

pressed,* and left to dry

each double skin, now called

is to be enveloped in some pretty and finished off 'to the taste of the

peau d’Espagne, silk or

satin,

»

.

vender.

*

*

'

Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and hence they are frequently called

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PERFUMED LETTER PAPER. “ the inexhaustible sachet.”

much, used

fof

Being

163 flat,

they are

perfuming writing-paper.

The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to and pleasing to many ; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which .it is tanned, and all

to the

empyfeumatic

with which is,

it is

of the bark of the birch tree,

oil

The odor

curried.'

of Russia leather

however, not rarforcA^'ertough to be considered

as a perfume

;

can be im-

but, nevertheless, leather

pregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any sweet scent, and which

it.

detains to a remarkable

degree, especially with otto of santal or'lemon-grass

In this manner the odor of the peau

{Verbena).

d’Espagne ’can be greatly varied, and gives great satisfaction, .

on account of the permanence of

perfume.

*

.

*

its

*

.

Perfumed Letter-Paper. If a piece oT peau d’Bspagne be placed in oontact

with paper, the latter absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as “ perfumed for writing

it is

obvious that paper

upon must not be touched with any of

the odorous tinctures or ottos, on account of such .

matters interfering with the fluidity of the ink and action of the pfen-' therefore, tiop, as it were, alone

to advantage.

:

»

by

the-

process

'

*

'

-

Besidefe the sachets mentioned there are *

f infec-

can writing paper be perfumed

many

other

substances applied as dry perfumes, such as scented w'adding, used for quilting into

adapted for use

in

all

sorts of articles

a lady’s boudoir; Pincushiqns, jewel


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

164 cases,

and the

fumed,

like are lined with

musk, &c.

*

'

.

We -have

seen that leather can bo impregnated with

odoriferous substances, in

d’Espjrgnc

made up tasto

*

Perfumed Book-markers.

'

r

Cotton, so per-

it.

simply steeped in some strong essence of

is

;

tlieC

manufacture of peau

just so-is card-board treated prior to being

In finishing them for

into book-marks.

alone

sale,

some are orna-

design;

dictates their

mented with beads, others with embroidery. •

'

*.

*

.

.

Cassolettes asd Puintakiers,

Cassolettes and Priutaniers are

of various designs, perforated

little

ivory boxes,

order to allow the

in.

The paste used for tilling these “ ivory palaces whereby wo are mRdo glad,” is composed of equal parts of grain musk, amescape of the odors contained therein.

and w’ith enough gum acacia, or gum tragawork the whole together into a paste. These

bergris, seeds of the vanilla-pod : otto of roses, Orris

powder,

cartilui, to

How

things are

principally” used for perfuming the

pocket- or reticule,

mental

silver

much

iu the

same way that orna-

and gold vinagrettesare used. *

*

*

Pastils. I

.

There

v

,

I

.

-

is

*

' **

»

'•

no doubt whatever that the origin of the

use of pastils,' or pastilles, as they are more often called,

from the French, has been derived from the use of incense,

gious

jit

the altars of the

services

temples during the

reli-

According to the custom of the*

priest’s office, his lot (iiacharias’)

was

to

burn incense

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;

THE CEKfEK.

hen 1 .

:

he went into the temple of the Lord.' (Luke

9.) .

165

.

“And them shalt mate an idtax to burn incense. * And Aaron shah bora thereon street .

when he dresseth the lamps, and at even -when he Hghteth the lamps he shall turn incense upon it.” (Esodus 30.) incense exert- morning

An

analogous practice

Roman

in the

use to the present day

is in

Catholic churches, but. instead of being

consumed upon an

turned in a many of our readers have seen. “ As soon as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the Holy place was filled altar, the incense is

censer, as doubtless

with perfume, and the congregation without joined in

(Carpenter t Temple terrice of the He-

prayers.” brew*.)

*

The Cessee.

“ Oh

Meroe

the' walls

to

of every temple in Egypt, from

Memphis, the censer

is

depicted smoking

Before the presiding-' deity of the place

;

on the walls

of the tombs glow in -bright colors the preparation of

and perfumes.”

spices is

In the British Museum. there

a vase (No. 2595) the body of which

is

intended to

contain a lamp, the' sides being perforated to admit

the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes

;

which are intended to contain ottos of flowers

placed in the small vases at the end of the tubes

;

the

heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly perfumes an

This vase or censer

apartment. catacomb.

.

.

The Censer, either of brass,

as used in the

German

silver,

is

from an Egyptian -

.

“holy places,”

is

made

or .the precious metals

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

1G6 its

form somewhat resembles a saucer and' an inverted

cup, which latter

is

of the perfume.

perforated, to allow the- escape

In the ^uter saucer is' placed ah

inner one of copper, which can be taken out.aud

filled

J

.

-

^

.

Tim

Censer. ^

When

with ignited charcoal.

carbon

is

plaeed

in.

the censer, and

with the incense; the visible fumes.

'

in use, the" ignited

herit

-The effect

is

is

then covered

rapidly -volatilizes assisted

it

in

by the incense-

bearer- swinging the censer, attached to -three long chains, in the air.

-

The manner

of swinging

the

censer varies slightly in the churches in

Rome,

France, and in England, some holding

above the

head.

At La Madeleine

the

it

-

in

method -is always to

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••

give the censer a

167

PASTILS.

\

swing at the greatest length of

full

the chains with 'the right hand, rind to cat^h short with the left hand. *

it

up

.

Several samples of “ incense prepared for altar

by Mr. Martin, of Liverpool,

service,” as sent out

gum

appear to be nothing more than indifferent quality, 'and

as especially is <

given in

The

mot at

all like

commanded by God,

olibanum, of

the composition

the form for which

in 'Exodus.

full,

moderns are really but a very

pastils of the

slight modification of the inefenge

of the ancients.

For many years they were called Osselets of Cyprus'. In the old books on phdrmacy a certain mixture of

known

the then

gum-re‘sins was called Suflitus, which

being thrown upon hot ashes’ produced

was considered It is

now

to be salutary in

many

used, or at least to cover the

sick-*hamber.

There

is

*

not

l

pastils that are

benzoin,

mal odeur of the

«

Yellow

£aStils.

.

.

.*

.

Tolu,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.3* drachms.

...

cloves,

Nitrate of potass,

•.

Mucilage -of tragacantba, a

stiff

paste.

-

••

q.s.

to

lb:

li lb.

.

.-

*

of the

*

.1

* .

Otto of santal, « .. oaggjp^ .

*

;

Indian, or

*

\yhich

pastils are

much variety in the formula * ^ now in use we have first the

Santal-wood, in powder,

Gum

a- .vapor

diseases.

under the same impression that

make

1 lb.'

''

.

^ OZ.

the whole into

,

Digit


'

TUB ABT OP PERFUMERY.

168

The benzoin, Bantal-wood, and Tolu, are nitre being dissolved in the mucilage,

The

*'

ally* dried.

Tho

*

ottos.

then

is

ma

mortar, the pastils

pastil

mould, and gradu-

After well beating

added.

^are formed in shape with a

be

to.

powdered and mixed-top sifting theta, adding the

.

.

Chinese josticks are of a similar composition,

but contain no Tolu* Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value

of santal-wood;

'

.

*

-Benzom;

.

*

•Da. Paris’s* Pastils.

.

.

*

)

ofeach

.

.

.

* lb.

.

Cagearilla, }

Myrrh,

r .

.

'a

k

.

.

.

1J oz.

.

l'i

•'

Charcoal,

.

41

*

*

1

cloves, )

* .

*

:•

i oz.

.

Nitre,

2

.

Mix

lb.

,

Otto of nutmegs,

o»‘. % .

as in the preeedihg. ’

'

.

0

Perfumer’s Pastils. 0

Well-horned cbarcbal, Benzoin, Tolu,

*

.

,

.

lib.

..

i lb.

#

Vanilla pods.

of each,

-

...

Cloves,

-

Otto ef santal, “ neroli, Nitre,

.

.

"

*.•

*

>

-

of each.

.. •

.

*•

Mucilage tragacantha,

••

r

.

.

,

.•

.

. *

s

.

2 dr.

*

.

,

*li oz.

q

s.

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169

FUMIGATION.

Piesse’s Pastils.

Willow charcoal,

i

Benzoic acid,

6 oz.

.

lb.

Otto of thyme,

caraway,

rose,

lavender,

cloves,

11

of each,

i dr.

.

santal;

Prior to mixing* dissolve £ oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water ; with this solution

thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow in a

warm

When over zoin.

it

it

to

dry

place.

the thus nitrated charcoal

quite dry, pour

is

the mixed ottos* and stir in the flowers of ben-

When

mixed by

well

sifting

(the sieve is a

better tool for mixing powders than the pestle

mortar),

it

is

finally

enough mucilage less that is

to

beaten

up

and

in a mortar, with

bind the whole together, and the

used the better

A great variety of formulae have been published for them conNow, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes

the manufacture of pastils tain

;

nine-tenths of

some woods or bark, or aromatic

combustion

seeds.

— the slow combustion—materials are pro-

duced which have far from a pleasant odor the smell of burning

volatilized aromatic ingredients

alone that charcoal

The use

of charcoal

is irt

;

in fact,

wood predominates over the ;

it is

for this, reason

used in lieu of other substances. a -pastil

is

merely for burning,

15

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

170

producing, during

its

combustion, the heat required

to

quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which

charcoal

way is,

The product of the combustion

surrounded.

it is

is

of

inodorous, and therefore does not in any

interfere with the fragrance of the pastil.

Such

however, not the case with any ingredients that

may tile

be used that are not in themselves perfectly

by the aid of a small increment of heat.

bustion takes place, which

is

always the case

vola-

If com.with all

the aromatic woods that are introduced -into pastils,

we

wood compounds naturally produced by the

have, besides the volatilized otto which the

contains, all the

slow burning -pf ligneous matter, spoiling the true

odor of the other ingredients volatilized.

There

are,

is

it

true, certain kinds of fumigation

adopted occasionally where 1,hese products are the

By

materials sought.

paper

is

tion) in a

By

such fumigation, as when brown

allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combus-

room

for the purpose of covering

the quick combustion of tobacco, that

bad smells. is,

combus-

no odor developed, but by

its

slow combustion, according to the method adopted

by

tion with flame, there

those

“ the weed,”, the familiar aroma, generated, and did not exist ready

who indulge

“ the cloud,” formed

is

is

in

in the-tobacco.

Now

not develope any odor of

its

a well-made pastil should

own, but simply volatilize be, Used in its

manu-

think that the fourth formula

given

that fragrant matter, whatever facture.

We

it

above carries out that object. It does not follow that the formulae that

given produce at

all

times the odor that

are here is

most

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;

PERFUME LAMP. approved

it

171

evident that in pastils, as with other

is

;

Many

perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste.

persons very

much

object to the

aroma of benzoin,

while they greatly admire the fumes of cascarilla.

The Perfume Lamp. Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property

of spongy platinum remaining incandescent in the

vapor of

alcohol, the late

made a very

Mr.

I.

Deck, -of Cambridge,

ingenious application of

it

for the pur-

An ordinary spirit de Cologne, and “ trimmed�

pose of perfuming apartments.

lamp

is filled

with

Itfau

with a wick in the usual manner. %

Over

the* centre of #

the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch-

above

itr,

a small ball of spongy platinum

maintained in

its

glass rod, which

position

is

by being

is

placed,

fixed to a thin

inserted into the wiek.

Perfume Lamp.

Thus arranged, the lamp

is

to

be lighted and

allowed to burn until the platinum becomes red hot the flame

may

platinum

remains

then be blown out, nevertheless the incandescent

for

an

indefinite

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

172

The proximity

period.

of a red-hot ball

terial of the physical quality of

.to

a ma-

Eau de Cologne,

dif-

fused over a surface of cotton -wick, as a matter of

course causes

its rapid'

evaporation, and as a conse-

quence the diffusion of odor. Instead of the lamp being charged with

we may nse Eau de

Cologne,

any

spirituous -essence.

.other

make a

Eau de

Portugal, vervaine, or

Several perfumers

particular mixture for this purpose, which is

called

Eau a Brulek. Eau de

Cologne,..

.

Tincture of benzoin, 1‘

Otto of thyme, “ mint,

u

1 pfnt.

2 oz.

.

vanilla,

1 oz.

1 >•

nutmeg,

of each,

i drachm.

J

Another form, called Eau pour Bruler. Rectified spirit,

1 pint.

.

Benzoic acid,

i oz:

Otto of thyme,

)

of each,

caraway,

bergamot,

1

drachm.

j

2 oz.

Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume

lamps

will,

however frequently observe

ever difference there

may

that,

what-

be in the composition of

the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of

the

odor of the result when the

in action.

This arises from the fact, that

similarity in

platinum

is

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.

FUMIGATING PAPER. so long as there

is

173

.the vapor of alcohol,

mixed with

oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain

always

definite products,

result,

namely, acetic acid,

aldehyde, and acetal, which are formed more or leas

and impart a peculiar and rather agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but .which overpowers any other odor •

that is present. FumioatIng Papes.

• **»

There are two modes of preparing 1,

Take

into a solution of

one pint.

them be

alum

banum, and

either

water,

;

upon one

side of

is

it

gum

this

let

paper

benzoin,

oli-

balm of Tolu or Peruvian balsam,

may

or the benzoin &e.,

;

After they are thoroughly moistened, well dried

:

and dip them

—say, alum, one ounce

spread a mixture of equal parts of

gum,

this article

sheets of light cartridge paper,

be used alone.

To

spread the

necessary that they be melted in an

earthenware vessel and poured thinly over the paper, finally

smoothing the surface with a hot spatula.

When

required for use, slips of this paper are held

over a candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the

odorous matter, -but not to ignite the paper prevents ing-

it

it.

The alum

in

a to certain extent from burn*

.

,

2.

Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in .

a solution of saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one^ pint of water, to be afterwards

thoroughly dried.

Any

of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum,

benzoin, &c., are to be dissolved to

saturation in

15 *

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

174

4

rectified spirit,

and with a brush spread upon one

side of the paper, which, being

hung

up, rapidly

dries.

Slips of this paper are to be' rolled

up as

spills, to

be ignited, and then to be blown out.

The

nitre

m

the paper causes a continuance of

slow combustion, diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous gums.

If two of

these sheets of paper be pressed together before the surface

When

is

cut

dry, .they will join and into

slips,

become as one. they form what are called

Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.

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XHE PRIMARY SOAPS.

175

*

v.

The word

SECTION

YIII.

PERFUMED

SOAP.

Greek sapo,

soap, or sope, from the

occurs in the works of Pliny and Galen.

forms us that' soap was that

it

first

discovered

was -composed of tallow and

German soap was reckoned

the

to Sismondi,. the

A. D. 79),

many

eruption

some excavations made

years 'ago.

(•

Starke's Letters

these statements

Jeremiah

is

it is

evident that the manu-

of very ancient origin

mentions

figuratively

it

—“.For

indeed,

;

"though

thou wash thee with natron, and take thee soap, yet thine iniquity :

from

-

facture of soap

2

of

’’£*

Italy.)

From

a soap-boiler’s shop with soap in

was discovered during

there not

According

French 'historian, a soapmaker was

At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an it

and that

ashes,

the best.

included in the retinue of Charlemagne.

Vesuvius

first

Pliny in-

by the Gauls,

22.)

is

in the British

(Jer,

v"

Mr. Wilson says that the soap trade in England

much

marked before me,”

.

is

earliest record of the

to be found in a

Museum, printed

in

pamphlet

1641, entitled

“A

short Account of the -Soap Business.” It speaks-more particularly about the duty, which was then levied for the first time,

and concerning certain patents

which we^e granted cusants, for

to persons,

some pretended' new

chiefly

' -

Popish re-

invention of white

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

176

“which

soap,

in

truth was not so.”

Sufficient is

said here to prove that at that; time soap-making

was

no inconsiderable art. It would be out of place here to enter into the soap-making";

details of

manufacture his dye-stuffs

perfumers do not

because

substance,- but

that

melters," to use a trade term.

are merely “ re-

The dyer purchases

from the drysalters already fabricated,

and these are merely modified under various purposes he requires

;

his

hands to the

so with the perfumer,

he purchases the various soaps in their raw state

from the soap-makers, these he mixes by Temelting, scents and colors according to- the article to be produced.

The primary soaps are divided soaps

:

into

hard and soft

the hard soaps- contain soda as the base ; those

which are

soft are

prepared with potash.

These are

again divisible into varieties, according to the fatty

matter employed in their manufacture, also according

to the proportion of

alkali.

these to the perfumer it

forms the basis of

what

is

all

The most important of is

termed curd

soajs,

as

the highly-scented soaps.

Curd Soap is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine tallow. Oil Soap, as made in England, is an uncolored •

.

combination of olive

oil

.

and soda, hard,

.

close grain,

and contains -but "little water in combination. *• Castile Soap, as. imported from Spain, is' a lar combination, but is colored iron.

The

soap after

simi-

by protosulphate of added to the

solution of the salt being it is

manufactured, from the presence of

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SOAP DUTY.

TIIE

decomposition of the salt takes place, and pro-

alkali,

toxide of iron

known black pearance to

diffused through the soap, of its well-

is

When

it.

and exposed

the soap

to the air,

oxygen

sorption of

marbled apup into bars, the protoxide passes by ab-

color, giving the familiar is

into peroxide

cut

;

hence, a section

of a bar of Castile soap shows the outer edge red-

marbled, while the interior

is

blahk-marbled.

Some

not artificially colored, but a similar

Castile soap

is

appearance

produced by the use'of a barilla or soda

is

containing Snlphuret of the alkaline base, and at other

times from the presence of an iron

MakiNE Soap

is

salt.

soap, of soda,

a cocoanut-oil

containing a great excess of alkali, and much' water

combination.

.

Yellow Soap

is

a soda soap, of tallow, resin, of-

lard, &c. &c.

Palm Soap

palm

a soda soap of

is

the peculiar odor and color of the

The

odoriferous principle of palm

from

orris-root,

oil

;

it

like ottos generally, it

tact in the presence of an alkali, hence,

of palm

The

oil

retains the odor of the

retaining

unchanged.

resembling that

can be dissolved out of

tion with alcohol

oil,

oil

by tincturaremains

in-

^oap made

oil.

public require a soap that^will not shrink and

change shape after they purchase

it.

It

must make

,

a profuse lather during the act of Avashing. It must It must be not leave the skin rough after- using it. either

None

quite inodorous or of.

have a pleasant aroma.

thejibove soaps possess

all

these qualities in

union, and, therefore, to produce such ah

article is

the object of the perfumer in his remelting process.

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ft


— THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

178

Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap,

was a commercial impossibility

in 1853, it

fumer

to

for a per-

manufacture soap, befeause the law did not

allow less than one ton of soap to be

made

at a time.

This-law, which, with certain modifications had been in force since the reign .of Charles I,

confined the

actual manufacture of that article to the hands of a

few

capitalists.

Such law,

ljowever,

was but of

little

importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling plant

and apparatus

is

tory of flowers

;

not very compatible. with a laborayet, in

some exceptional

instances,

these excise regulations interfered with him; such-,

making soft soap of lard and when perfumed, as Grimed' Amande;

for instance, as that in

potash, known,

or unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream, which has, in

consequence of that law, been entirely thrown into the hands of our continental neighbors.

Fig Soft Soap is a combination of oils, principally commonest kind, with potash. „ .. is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil) and potash, colored brown for the London shavers, retaining, when pure, its unsophisticated “.fishy” olive oil of the ,

Naples Soft Soap

odor.

.

which are mixed

jind

made by

the perfumers,

remelted according to the

fol-

:

The remelting process bar soap

body or base of

constitute the real

the fancy scented soaps as

lowing formula

.

.

.

The above soaps all

is first

is

fixed

The by pressing

exceedingly simple.

cut up into thin slabs,

them against a wire

upon Jhe working benoh.

This cutting wire (piano wire

is

the ljind)

is

made

Digitized by

Google


179

SOAP-MELTING.

taut upon the bench, by being attached to two screws.

These screws regulate the height of the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the slabs from the bars. it

The soap

would be next

is

cut up into thin slabs, because to melt a bar whole,

to impossible

on account of soap being one of the worst conductors .'

of0 heat. m

The melting pan

an

is

iron vessel, of various sizes,

capable of holding from 2£

3 cwt., heated by

lbs- to

The soap

a steera jacket, or by a water-bath. into the

pan by degrees, or what

called “rounds,” that

perpendicularly

all

is,

is-

is

put

in the vernacular

the thin slabs are placed

round the Side of

the* pan

;

a few

ounces of water are at the same time introduced, the

steam -of which

assists the melting.

The pan being

covered up, in about half an hour the soap will have

“ run down.” Another round is then introduced, and so continued every half hour until the whole “melting” is finished. The more water a soap contains, the easier is it melted; hence a round of marine soap, or of

new yellow

half the time that

When

it

soap, will run

down

in

requires for old soap.

different soaps are being remelted to

form

one kind when finished, the various sorts are to be inserted Into the

pan

in

alternate rounds, but each

rdund must consist only of One kind, to insure uniformity of condition.

mix

it,

to time

As

the soap melts, in order to

and to break up lumps, &c., “ crutched.” The “ crutch”

or tool for stirring up the soap

pf

its

;

its

it *is is

from time

an instrument

name

is irfdicative

form, a long handle with a short, cross-^an

% 1


THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

180 inverted

jq,

curved to

the soaps are required,

all

fit

the curve of the pan.

melted,

it

is

and then the perfume

When

then colored, is

if so.

added, the whole

being thoroughly incorporated with the crutch.

The soap

is

then turned into the “ frame.”

The

'

F«ame and Slab Gauge.

frame

is

a box made in sections, in order that

it

can

be taken to pieces, so that the soap, can be cut up when cold ; the sections Or “ lifts ” are frequently

made

of the width of the intended bar of soap.

Two

or three days after the soap has been in the

frame,

it is

cool enough to cut into slabs of the size

of the

lifts

or sections of the frame

Barring Gauge.

set

up edgeways

to cool for

;

these slabs are

a day or two more

;

it is

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'

SOAP-CUTTING.

then barred by means of a wire.

The

lifts

frame regulate the widths of the bars

181

of the

the gauge

;

regulates their breadth.. The density of the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so .that

the soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights six,

;

that

is,

either into squares of four,

or eight to the pound weight.

Latterly, various

Squaring Gauge.

mechanical arrangements have been introduced for soap-cutting, wliich in very large establishments, such

as those ht Marseilles in France, are great economisers

of labor

;

but in England. the “ wire �

.

Soap Scoop.

For. making tablet shapes the soap

is still

.

used.

.

Hl-L.

is first

cut into

16

Digitized by

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THE AHT OF PERFUMERY.

182 squares,

and

is

under a press

modification

“of

an ordinary die or

Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a

coin press. little

then put into a mould, and finally

—a

tool called a

.

“scoop,” made of brass or ivory,

.•

Soap Press.

• .

«

% •

being, in fact, a ring-shaped knife.

Balls are also

made in the press with a mould of appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained

Moulds.

The

by the

press and appropriate moulds.

shaped

soaps, after leaving the mould, are dipped .

Lk.

fruit-

1

Digitized

by

Googk


ALMOND SOAP.

183

and are then colored according to

into melted wax,

artificial fruit-makers’ rules.

The “ variegated”

.

.

colored soaps are produced

by

adding the various colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously

melted state

mixed with water,

to the soap in a

these colors are but slightly crutched

;

hence the streaky appearance or party color of

in,

the soap

this

;

kind

also

is

termed u marbled” soap. •

.

*

i

e

.

t

Almoxd Soap. '

j This soap, i

.

by some persons “ supposed”

sweet almond

to be

made

and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is in reality of

constituted thus

oil,”

:

Finest curd soap,

u “ “

By

.1 cwt.

.

.

.

.

.

.

14 lbs.

.

.

.

.

.

.

14

.

.

.

.

cloves, •

l

..

,•

marine,

Otto of almonds, .

-

.

oil soap,

.

.

'caraway,

.

.

.

",

.

.

lbs.

1J lb. |lb..

\.ilb.

t

the time that half the curd soap

marine soap

is

to

be added

crutched, then add the

remaining curd.

When

and just before turning the mixed perfume.

oil

;

soap,

when and

the whole it

is

melted, the this

finish

is

well

is

well

with the melted,

into the frame, crutch in .

Some of the soap “ houses” endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial essenceof almonds (sec Almond) for perfuming soap,

true otto of almonds

it ;

being far cheaper than the

but the application has proved

so unsatisfactory in practice, that

it

has been aban-


THE ART OF PERFUMERY. doned by Messrs. Gibbs,. Pincau

and others who used

(of Paris), Gosnell,

it.

Camphor Soap. Curd soap,

.

.

28

.

-1J

Otto of rosemary,

lbs.

l}lb.

Camphor,

Reduce the camphor

lb.

powder by rubbing it in p mortar with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted and ready to turn, out;, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch for mixing. to

Honey Soap. Best yellow soap,

.

1

Fig

.

14

soft soap,

Otto of citronella,

cwt. lbs.

lb.

White Windsor Soap. Curd soap,

Marine soap,

1 cwt. .

Oil soap,

Otto of caraway, *•

lbs. lbs.

1J lb.

thyme,

u

rosemary,

claves,

of each,

of each,

Brown Windsor Curd

21

14

soap,'

Marine soap, Yellow soap,

.

.

.

.

Soap. j cwt. *

“ '

i

*

Oil soap,

i

Brown

£ pint.

coloring (caramel),

Digitized by

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.

r ."f* PERFUMED

X.

<

thyme,

each,

4

*

r

#

“ %

185

SOAPS.

Otto of caraway,' “ „ cloves,

-

v

*

ps

$ lb.

..

.

/cassia,

.

• *

“ “

petit grain, ‘

French lavender,

\

%

0

»

.

*

i*

Sand Soap.

*

/

Curd soap, Marine soap,

r

.

•'

i

.

*

*•

Otto of thyme, cassia,

.

u

28

.

.

lbs. #

*.

.

_

7 lbs.

.

.

each,

caraway,

.

.

7 lbs.

.

»*

^

r-

Sifted silver sand,

*

»

.

.

2 oz.

.

I

.

*/*

French laVender, ,

Fuller’s Earth Soap.

, *

Curd soap, . Marine soapj

*^

*Fuller'8 earth (baked),

.

Otto of French lavender,

u

origanum,

The above forms are

.

*

.

.

.

i

10$ lbs

3$ lbs. 14 lbs. ~ -2

indicative

oz.

1 oz.

.

of the

method

adopted for perfuming soaps while hot or melted. . All the very highly scented soaps are, however,

perfumed

cold, in order to avoid the loss of scent,

per cent* of perfume being evaporated by

the.

20 hot

•process.

The

variously

“ Sultana”

named

from the sublime w Turtle’s Marrow,” we

soaps,

to the ridiculous

cannot of course be expected to notice

;

the reader

may, however, rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission. The receipts given produce only the finest quality *1G

Digitized .

by

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.....

wJ


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

186

Where cheap soaps arc remuch acumen is necessary' to diseern that

of the; article named. quired, not

by omitting ^he.expensive perfumer, or lessening the quantity, the object desired

attained.

is

lower

Still

made by using

greater

proportions of yellow soap, and employing

a very

qualities of scented soap are

common

curd, o‘mitting the oil soap altogether;

Scenting Soaps hot.

• .

'

%

4

In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scenting soap involved the necessity of melting ‘it.

The high temperature

of the soap under these cir-

cumstances involves the obvious of perfume by evaporation. soaps,

loss of a great deal

With very highly scented

and with perfume of an expensive character, is too great to be borne in a com-

the loss of ottos

mercial sense

;

hence the adoption of the plan of

Scenting Soaps cold.

exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small batches, involving merely mechanical labor, the tools required being simply

This method

is

an ordinary carpenter’s plane, and a good marble mortar, and lignum vitae pestle. The woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at .

each end, so that when placed over the mortar

it

re-

mains firm and not easily moved by the parallel pressure of the soap against

its

projecting blade.

To commence operations, we or 21

lbs.

take

first

of the bars of the soap that

7 lbs., 14dbs., it

is

intended

mor<

eai Digitized by


into fine shavings.

•who does not will

Like the French “ Charhonnier,’

saw the wood, but woods the saw, so

the soap, but that

which

we soap

fall lightly into

duced.

the plane, the shavings of

the mortar as quickly as pro-

*

.

Soap, as generally received from the maker,

proper condition for thus working' f but in

it

be perceived that in this process we do not plane

stock any time

it

When

the

distilled

water

the shaving for every pound of soap

employed, and must hours to

is

has been

becomes too hard, and must

have from One to three ounces of sprinkled in

if it

lay'

for

at

least twenty-four

bet

absorbed before the perfume is“added.

it

is

determined what size the cakes of soap

are to be, what they are to

sell for,

and what.it

is

in-

tended they should cost, then the maker can iheasure out his perfume.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

188

In a general way* soaps scented in this

from

way

10*. per pound, hearing about

4*. to

cent, profit, which

The soap being

limited sale.

retail

100 per

not too .much -considering their

is

in a proper physical

condition with regard to moisture,

have tho perfume well

stirr’ed into it.

&c.,

is

The

now

to

pestle

is

then set to work fop the process of incorporation.

After a couple of hours of “ warm exercise,� the soap is

generally expected to be free from streaks, and to

be of one uniform consistency.

For perfuming soap

in large portions

by the. cold and mortar as an more convenient and economical

process, instead of using the 'pestle

incorporator, if

employ a

to

is

mill similar in construction- to a cake

chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill

;

any mechanical

apparatus that anglers for mixing paste and crushing

lumps

will

serve pretty well for blending Soap to-

gether.

Before going into the tnill, the soap is to be .reduced to shavings, and have the scent and oolor stirre.4 in

;

after leaving

the flakes or ribands Of soap are

it,

bound together by the pestle and mortar into one solid mass it is then weighed out in quanto be finally

;

tities for

hand

the tablets required, and moulded by the

into egg-shaped masses

;

each piece being

left

in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet

of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the pregs, which is the same as that previously

mentioned.

It is usual, before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to dust them over with a little starch-powder, or else to very slightly oil the mquld ;

Digitized


a

COLORED SOAPS.

189

either of these- plans prevents the soap from adher-

ing to the letters of embossed work of "the mould

condition essential for turning out a clean well-struck tablet.

The body

of

the fine soaps mentioned below

all

should" consist of the finest and whitest curd soap, or

of a soap previously melted and colored to the re-

quired shade, thus

:

Rose*colored Soap is curd soap stained with vermilion, ground in water, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted, and not very hot. Green SOAR is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap, to which is added powdered smalt ground with water.

s

Blue Soap, curd

Brown sugar.

soap colored with smalt.

Soap, curd soap with caramel,

The

i.

e.

-burnt

-

.

intensity of color varies, of course, with the

quantity of coloring.

Some a

kinds of soap become eolored or tinted to

by the mere addition of the

sufficient extent

ottos

used fbr scenting, such as ‘Ispermaceti soap,” “lemon

which become of a beautiful pale lemon by the mere mixing of the perfume with the

soap,’’ &c.,

color

'

curd soap.

Otto of Rose Soap/ (

To

retail at

1

Ox.

per pound.)

Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion Otto of rose,

.

.

Otto of santal,

geranium,

.

...

Spirituous extract of mask,

*

'.

»

-

, -

-1

} lbs.

.

1 oz.

.

2 oz.

.

i oz.

,

i oz.

Digitized by

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

190

Mix

them

the perfumes, stir

and beat together.

in the soapi shavings,

Tonquin Musk Soap. Pale brown-colored curd soap,

...

Grain musk, '

Otto of bergamot,

Rub

... .

.

.

.

.

*

.

musk with the bergamot, then add

the

and beat up.

soap,

.....

.

.

*

5 lbs.

..."

1 oz.

.

I oz.

t

.-

to the

it

• ,

Orange-Flower Soap.. •

%

Curd. soap,

Otto of

.

.

*

:

.

.

.

.

.

7 lbs.

-.

.

3ioz»

.

A

neroli,

-

Santal-wood Soap. Curd

soap,

.

Otto of santal, . “ bergamot,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

lbs.

$

7 oz.

* _

.

.

«

.

2 oz.

Spermaceti Soap.

Curd soap,

.

Qtto of bergamot,

u

lemon,

...

.

.

.

,

.

.

.

.

.

*

.

.

.

.

.

.

.1,4 lbs.

.

.

2}

.

.

4

Citron Soap. _

Curd soap, Otto of citron, “ verbena (lemon-grass),

u

bergamot,

u

lemon,

One

lbs.

lb.

*

*

.

*

.

\

of the best of fancy soaps that

6 lbs.

^

^

lb.

4 oz.

4 ‘

.

.

is

made.

.

oz.

2 oz.

\ Digitized by

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.

SAPONACEOUS CREAM OF ALMONDS.

191

Frangipanne Soap. Curd sqap (previously colored Civet,

.

light brown), •

a

a

Otto of neroH,

.

.

.

.

santal,

.

.

.

a

a

a

U u

Rub

.

rose,

a

a

*•

a

.

1 lbs.

.

^ OZ.

a

a

.

.

.•

.

.

1| oz.

a

,

,

a

J OZ.

$

vitivert,

J oz.

the civet with the various, ottos, mix, and beat

in the usual

...

'

manner.

Patchouly Soap.

4* lbs.

Cur<J soap, ”

oz.

'1 oz.

Otto of patchouly,

santal,

vitivert,

-

| of each,

J oz.

j

Saponaceous Cream or Almonds. 40

The preparation

sold under this title

*

.

is

a potash

It h&s a beautiful pearly appear-

soft soap of lard.

met with. extensive demand as a shavBeing also used m the manufacture of

ance, and has

ing soap.

Emulsines, it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by the perfumer. It is made thus :

......

Clarified lard,

-Potash of

lye (containing

tic potash), -

.

.

-a

.

.

Otto of almonds,

.

.

Manipulation

by a

.

;

a •

a

in

lt».

a .

3 oz.

.

2 drachms.

.

.

3j

.

.

.

.

— Melt the lard

salt-water bath, or

pressure

26 per cent of caus'

Rectified spirit,

1 IbS.

a porcelain vessel

by a steam heat under 15

lbs.

then run in the lye, very slowly, agitating

Digitized by

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192

ART OF PERFUMERY.

TIIE

when about half

the wliolc time;

mixture begins that

firm

it

it

is

The creme

cannot be stirred.

finished, but is not pearly;

the lye

in,

the

however, become so

to curdle; it will,

will,

is

then

however, assume

that appearance by long trituration in a mortar, gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved

the perfume.

Soap Pownrus.

These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifricoandat others for shaving; they are made by reduc-

,

ing the soap into shavings by a plane, then thoroughly

drying them in

a

mill,

warm

in a

situation, afterwards grinding

then perfuming with any otto desired.

Rypophauon Soap. Best vel!ow soap.

Fig

.soft

Perfume

)'

,

I'tiuai 1

soap,

,

,

parts melted together.

)

with anise and citronella. Ambp.osut. Cbham.

Color the grease very strongly with alkanet root,

then proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous The cream colored in this way has a blue cream. tint; k_.

X

when

merely

it

is

required of a purple color

stain the white saponaceous

to

mixture of vermilion and smalt

Perfume with

to the

we have

cream with a shade desired.

otto of oringeat.

Transpa iu:nt Soft Soap.

s

Solution caustic potash

Olive

oil,

Perfume

.

(

b>nd. PL),

.

.

-

.

fi

.

1

tbs. lb.

to taste.

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JONIPBR TAR SOAP. Before commencing potash lye to one half

Now

193

jto

make

its

bulk by continued boiling.

the soap, reduce the

proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous After standing a few days, pour

cream.

off the

waste

liquor.

Transparent Hard Soap.

Reduce the soap

much

to shavings,

and dry them as

as possible, then dissolve in alcohol, using as

as will effect the solution, then color

little spirit

perfume as desired, and cast the product ate moulds

;

finally

and

in appropri-

dry in a warm situation.

Until the Legislature allows

spirit- -to

be used for

manufacturing purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our neighbors in this article. Juniper Tar Soap.

*

This soap

is

made from

the tar of the wood of the

Jimiperus communis, by dissolving table

oil,

such as almond or olive

it

oil,

in a fixed vege-

Or in'flnO'tallow,

and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye, after-the customary manner. This yields a moderately ‘firm '

and clear soap, which may be readily used by

application to parts affected with eruptions at night,

mixed with a

little

water, and carefully washed off the

following morning.

This soap has lately been

much

used for eruptive disorders, particularly on the Continent,

and with varying degrees of success.

thought that the is

in Paris

of

effieient

element in

its

It

is

composition

a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known

its

under the name huile de cadet

ready miscibility with water,

it

On

account

possesses great

advantage over the common tar ointment, 17

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

104

Mkdicatkd Soaps.

Six years ago I began making a series of medicated

Sulphur Soap, Iodine Soap, Bromine Soap, Creosote Soap, Mercurial Soap* Croton Oil Soap, and many others. These soaps are prepared by adding the medicant to curd soap, For and then making in a -tablet' form for use. sulphur soap, the curd soap may die melted, and soaps, such as

flowers of'sulphur added while the soap

the low oxides of Âťthe metals employed

mixed

in a soft

is

For antimony soap and mercurial soap,

condition.

may

in the curd soap in a melted state.

also be

Iodine*

bromine, creosote soap, and others containing very volatile substances, arc best prepared cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant with it by long beating.

In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they will prove of infinite -service as auxiliaries to the general treatment.

It

is

obvious

that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active

during the lavoratory process therefore,

such -soap must nbt,

boused except by the

medical man.

special advice of

Probably these .soaps

useful for internal

application.

will

a

be found

The precedent of

the use of Castile soap (containing oxide of. iron)

renders

it

likely that

away, such soaps pceias.

when prejudice has

will find

The discovery

passed'

a place in the jaharmaco-

of the solubility, under certain

conditions, of the active alkaloids^uinine, morphia,

by Mr. W. Bastick, greatly /avors the supposition of analogous compounds in soap. &c., in

oil,

t

V. Digitized by

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195

AMANDINE.

SECTION *

.

'

IX.

EMULSINES. /-

From

.

.

r>

soaps proper ,we

now

pass to those compounds

used as substitutes for soap, which are classed together

ynder one general all

as above, for the reason that

title

coemetiques herein embraced have the property of

forming emulsions with water.

*

Chemically considered, they a^e -an exceedingly

and are well worthy might be

interesting class of compounds,

of study.

Being prone

to decomposition, as

expected from their composition, they should be made only in small portions, to

or, at least,

only in quantities

meet a ready sale. While in stock they should be kept as cool as pos-

sible,

and free from a damp atmosphere. Amandine.

Fine almond

oil,

"

Simple .syrup,*

White

soft soap, Or

saponaceous cream,

.

t. e. 1

“Creme d’Amande, Otto of almonds, “ . bergamot,

cloves,

Rub one

oz.

.

0Z ’

.

.

.

. •

1 qz.

.

.

.

.

.

1

.

.

.

i oz.

.

\

oz.

the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture

* Simple-syrup in

4

J

-

*

.

7 lbs.

*

consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for

pint, imperial,

a minute

of distiHed water.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

196

homogeneous, then rub in the oil by degrees the perfume having been previously mixed with the oil. In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the is

;

difficulty is

to get in

the quantity of

oil

V.

indicated,

does not assume that transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. the oil is put into “ a runner,” that end, this To attain

without which

is,

it

a tin or glass vessel, at the bottom bf which is a The oil being put

small faucet and spigot, or tap. into this vessel in

is

allowed to run slowly into the mortar

which the amandine

is

being made, just as fast as

Oil-Runner in Emultine Process.

the maker finds that he can incorporate paste of soap and syrup

it

with the

and so long as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar •

;

quicker than the workman can blend it with the paste, then the -paste becouios “ oiled,” and may be considered as “ done for,” unless, indeed, the whole process be gone through again, starting off with fresh

syrup and soap, using up the greasy mass as

if it

were

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;

OLIVINE.

pure

This liability to

oil.

“go

197 off,” increases as

the

amaitdine nears the finish hence extra caution and plenty of “ elbow grease” must be used during the ad-

pounds of

dition of the last two

If the

oil.

be not

oil

perfectly fresh, or if the temperature of the atmo-

sphere be above the average of summer heat,

be almost impossible to get the whole of the

it

oil

in. the formula into combination;

when the mass

comes bright and of a crystalline

lustre, it will

to stop the further addition of oil to

will

given be-

be well

it.

This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to exclude air.

When

the amandine

face of

it is

marked

into the jars, the top or

is filled

ornamented with a

or

tool

made

to the. size of half the diameter of the interior of the jar, in a

similar

tortoise-shell,

way

saw

to a

a piece of lead or

being serrated with an angular

file,

or

“old saw,” will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, and turn the jar geutly piece of an

round. *

Olivixe.

Gum

*•

acacia, in powdey,

Honey, . . Yolk .of eggs, in number, White soft soap.

.

6 oz.

.

5.

.

3 oz.

#

.

2 lbs.

.

Olive

Green

oil,

2"oz.

.

• 0

• **

.. '

oil,

Otto of bergamot,

.

1 oz.

.

t oz.

.

1

-

'

“ “

lemon,

.:

cloves,

.

thyme and cassia Gach,

.

*.

.

.

!

.

'

oz.

i oz. £

drachm.

17*

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY,

198

Rub the gum and honey

'

together until incorporated,

then add the soap and egg. Having mixed the green is to oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the mixture be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly as indicated for amandine. •

Honey and Almond

.

• .

(Pate

Paste.

Bitter almonds, blanched and ground,

Honey, Yolk of eggs, in number,

Almond

#

1

..

* .

«

d Amande au Mid.) •

.i lb.

*.

1 lh.

8.

...

.

*

_

1 lb.

oil,

'1 ozj

Otto of bergamot,

H

-

__

i oz.

cloves,

*

\

Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and finally the ground almonds and the perfume.

Almond Paste. Bitter almonds, blanched

Rose-water,

Alcohol (60

.

o. p.),

ahd ground,

...

.'

1#

.

.

•.

.

.

lb.

H pint. 16 oz*

3 oz.

Otto of bergamot,

Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-

water into a stewpan

;

with a slow and steady heat,

cook the almonds until their granular texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the

bottom of the pan, and imparb to the whole an

empyreumatiq odor.

The large quantity of

otto of

volatilized during the process,

almonds which

renders

it

is

essential

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PISTACHIO NUT MEAL.

199

that the operator should avoid the vapor as

much

as

possible.

When

the almonds are nearly cooked, the remain-

ing water

added finally the paste is put and .well rubbed with the pestle; then the perfume and spirit .are added. Before potting is

to be

;

into a mortar,

this paste, as well as

through a medium

honey

paste,

it

should be passed

fine sieve, to insure

uniformity of

texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly.

Other pastes, such as Pdte de Pistache, Pdte de

Pdte de Guimauve, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not bo Cocos,

confounded with preparations bearing a similar name

made by

confectioners.

Almond Meat Ground almonds, Wheat flour,

.

.

.

.

.

.

Orris-root powder,

Otto of lemon, “

.

.

almonds,-.

Pistachio

1

.

i oz.

.

J drachm.

Nut Meal, or any other Nut.

Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds j

are bleached),

.

.

.

*

^

1 lb.

-.1

Otto of neroli, 11

.

lemons,

^

)

.

Orris powder,

.

lb.

Jib/'

'

.

1 lb.

.

.

.

.

.

.

drachm.

ÂŁ oz.

Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are occasionally in demand, and are pre-

pared as the foregoing.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

200

All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory

process

“ render the

as

substitutes

and

skin pliant, soft,

for fair

and

soap,

to

!”

Emulsin au Jasmix. Saponaceous cream,

.

.

.

.

.

Simple syrup,

.

Almond

.

.

'

.

.

.

1 oz.

1$ oz.

'

oil,

Best jasmine

'

.

.

.

.

.

.

..

1 lb.

'

oil,

.

.

.

J

lb.

Emulsjx a le Violette.. Saponaceous cream, ,

Syrup of

Etnulsin

%

.

'

.

.

.

.

.

.

violets)

Best violet

oil,

of,

1 oz.

li.oz. .

other

... odors

1J

lb.

can be prepared with

tubereuse, rose, or cassie (acacia)

oil

(prepared by

enfleurage or maceration).

For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see “ Amandine,” p. 195.

On

account of the high price of the French .

oils,

these preparations are expensive, but they are un-

doubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques.

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201

EMULSIONS.

SECTION

X.

“N

MILK, OR EMULSIONS.

In the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready Sale than that class of cosmetiques denominated milks. It has long been known that nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts, when decorticated and freed from their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and rubbed with about four times their weight of water, produce fluid which has

every analogy to cow’s milk. of these emulsions

is

from the nuts being diffused

division of the oil derived

through the water.

The milky appearance

due to the minute mechanical

All these emulsions possess great

chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition, tion,

and the products emanating from their fermentaespecially that made with sweet almonds and

pistachios {Pistachio, vera ).

In the manufacture of various milks for manipulation

is

these emulsions

sale, careful

of the utmost importance, otherwise

“ will not keep

profit. (

hence more loss than

;

“ Transformation takes place In the elements of vegetable caseine (existing in seeds) from the very

moment

that sweet almonds are converted into almond-milk.”

—Liebig.

This accounts for the difficulty

many

per-

sons find in making milk of almonds that does not

spontaneously divide, a day or so after ture.

*

'

its

manufac-

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;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

202

.

Milk of Roses.

Valencia almonds (blanched),

.

.

.

Rose-water,

.

Alcohol (GO Otto of rose,

'

J lb. 1

1

White wax, spermaceti,

Manipulation

.

quart.

1 pint.

o. p.),

soap, each,

oil

— Shave up the

.

.

drachm.

4 oz.

soap, and place

it

in

a vessel that can be heated by steam or water-bath

add

to

it

the soap

two or three ounces of rose-water. is

perfectly melted, add the

obtain the correct weight slowly, tion

wax

without dividing them, more than

ceti,

and

;

is

When

and., sperma-

necessary to

this insures their melting

allows time for their partial saponifica-

by the fluid soap occasional stirring is necesWhile this is going on, blanch the almonds, ;

sary.

carefully excluding every particle that

Now

way damaged. in a

is

in the least

proceed to beat up the almonds

scrupulously clean mortar, allowing the rose-

water to trickle into the mass by degrees as used for the

oil in

When

almonds

to

is

;

the runner,

the manufacture of olivine,

convenient for this purpose. thus finished,

it is

is

very

the emulsion of

be strained, 'without

pressure through clean washed muslin {nev) muslin ,

often contains starch, flour,

gum, or

dextrine).

The previously-formed saponaceous mixture to be placed in

emulsion in the runner emulsion

is

*

now

is

the mortar, and the ready-formed ;

the soapy

compound and

the

As

the

then carefully blended together.

last of the emulsion rune into the mortar, the spirit,

in

which the otto of roses has been dissolved,

take

its

place,

and

to be

is

to

gradually trickled into the

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MILK QF ALMONDS.

A

other ingredients.

too sudden

spirit frequently coagulates the milk

he curdled

as

;

it

is,

203 addition of the

and causes

to

it

the temperature of the mixture

and every means must be taken to keep it down the constant agitation and cold mortar effect-

rises,

1

;

ing that object pretty well. Finally, the now formed milk of roses i3 to bte strained.

The almond residue tnay bo washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water, in order to prevent any in' bulk to the whole given quantity. The newly-

loss

formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a it about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. After standing perfectly quiet for twenty-four hours -

tap in

it is fit

AH

to bottle.

the above precautions being

taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without precipitate or'

creamy supernatation.

These direc-

tions apply to all the other forms of milk

now

given.

Milk of Almonds. Bitter almonds (blanched),

.

Distilled (or rose) water,

.

1

Alcohol (60 o

.'

J pint.*

.

J dl-achm.

p,),

Otto of almonds,

Wax,

bergamot,

.... ..... ..... .

.

.

"

1

0 oz.

quart.

.

2 drachms.

.

1

oz.

.

4

oz.

.

1

pint

.

f

spermaceti,

Alpiond

oil,

;

)

curd soap, j

. •

Milk of Elder.

Sweet almonds,

."

.

Elder-flower water,

.

Alcohol (60

.

.

.

8 oz.

Oil of elder flowers, prepared by maceration,

.

i oz.

Wax, sperm,

.

o. p.),

£bap, each,

.

.

.

* The imperial measure only

.

is

.

recognized

among

J oz.

perfumers.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

204

Milk of Dandelion. Sweet almonds, Rose-water,

Expressed juice of dandelion Esprit tubereuse,

Green oil, wax, n i Cura soap,

.’

....... .

1

root,

4

OZ.

.

1 pint

.

1 oz.

...

.

.

.

8

.

i oz.

oz*.

,

CftClIj

r

j

Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh -

pressed

;

as

it is

in itself

an emulsion,

it

may

be put

into the mortar after the alpionds are broken up,

and

stirred with the water

spirit in the usual

and

manner.

Milk of Cucumbbr. Sweet almonds,

.

.

,

Expressed juice of cucumbers,

.

4

oz.

.

1

pint.

8

oz.'

Spirit (60 o. p.),

Essence of cucumbers,

Green

oil,

wax,

i pint

each,

i oz.

.

Curd soap.

Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute, cool

it

as quickly as possible, then

strain through fine muslin; proceed to manipulate in

the usual manner.

Essence of Cucumbers.

Break up bers

;

in a

mortar 28

spirit (sp. gr. *837),

for a off

lbs. of

good fresh cucum-

with the pulp produced np x 2 pints rectified

day and night

a pint and a

and allow the mixture

;

half..

then

distil

The

to

the whole, and

distillation

tinued so as to obtain another pint

fit

may

stand

draw

be con-

for ulterior

purposes.

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EXTRACT OP ELDER FLOWERS.

205

\

Creme de Pistache.

{Milk of Pistachio Nuts.)

....

Pistqchio nuts,

Orange-flower water, Esprit neroli,

Palm Green

soap, oil,

.

.

each,

.

.

.

.

pints.

pint.

.

i

.

1 oz.

I

waxA

Spermaceti,

.3 oz*

. '.

.

J

Lait Virginal. Rose-water,

......

Tincture benzoin,

Add

.

.

.

.

.

1 quart.

.

.

.

£ oz.

the water very slowly to the tincture

doing an opalescent milky

fluid is

will retain its consistency for

;

by

so

produced, which

many

years

;

by

re-

versing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, a cloudy precipitate of the

pended

resinous matter

again become readily sus-

ensues, which does not in the water. %

Extract of Elder Flowers. Elder-flower water,

Tincture benzoin,

.

....

1 .

quart.

1 oz.

Manipulate as for virgin’s milk. Similar compounds may, of course, be

made with

orange-flower and 6ther waters.

18

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V

TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.

206

SECTION

XI.

COLD CREAM.

Galen, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in who distinguished' himself at Athens, AlexRome, about 17Q0 years ago, was the

Asia, but

andria, and

inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease

and water, which is now distinguished as cold cream perfumery, and as Ceratum Galeni in Pharmacy.

in

The modern formula

for cold

cream

however,

is,

quite a different thing to that given in the works of

Galen

odor and quality, although sub-

in point of

same

stantially the

—grease

and

In

water.

per-

fumery there are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor,, such as that of camphor,

almond,

violet, roses, &c.

Cold cream, as made by

English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at

home, but throughout Europe

;

the quantity ex-

ported, and which can only be reckoned

by

jars in

hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements

may

that

be seen in the shops on the Continent, in

Germany, France, Anglaise,”

is

and

Italy,

of

“ Cold

good proof of the estimation 1

it is

held.

*

Creme in

which

.

Rose Cold Cueam.

4

Almond

oil,

Rose-water,

White wax, Spermaceti,

Otto of

.

.

)

^

1

lb^

1

lb.

,

.

t oz.

]

roses,

i

drachm.

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:

207

COLD CREAM MANIPULATION. Manipulation

.

— Into a well-glazed thick porcelain

which should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm ; now vessel,

when these ; and again subject heat until the flocks of wax and sperm now remove the jar and contents, and

put the jar into a boiling bath of water materials are melted, add the

the whole to are liquefied set

it

oil,

;

under a runner containing the rose-water

the runner

may be

a tin can, with a small tap at the

bottom, the same as used for the manufacture of * ' •

«

A stirrer must be provided, made of and perforated with holes the size of

milk of roses. lancewQod,

flat,

a sixpence, resembling

As

in

soon as the rose-water

must be kept agitated has passed into

it

form a large palette-knife. is

whole of the water

now and then

;

cream

set running, the

until the

the flow of water

must he stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down, and incorporated with that which remains fluid.

When

the whole of the

Water has been incorporated, the cream

enough

to

the otto of rose

is

perfume being put

—the

will

be cool

pour into the jars for sale; at that time to be added. in at the last

The reason moment is

heat and subsequent agitation

unnecessary loss by evaporation.

for the

obvious

would

caaisc

Cold cream made

way sets quite firmly in the jars into which it poured, and retains “ a face” resembling pure wax,

in this is

although one-half of the cream.

is

water retained

When

in the interstices

the pots are well glazed,

keep good for one or two years.

it

will

If desired for ex-


;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

208

portation to the East.or

W est Indies,

it

should always

be sent out in stoppered bottles.

'

Cold Cream of Almokds Is prepared precisely as the above otto of roses otto of almonds

but in place of

;

used.

is

Violet Cold -Cream. Huile

violette,

Rose-water,

Wax

....

.

Otto of almonds,

oil,

lb.

5 drops.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

Violet Cold Cream.

Almond

1 lb.

'1

.

and spermaceti, each,

.

Imitation.

.

.

$lb.

.

ilb.

.

lib.

'

Huile cassie, Rose-water,

-

.

Sperm and wax,

.

1.

oz.

Otto of almonds,

.

I

drachm.

This

is

an elegant and economical preparation, gene-

rally admired.

Tdbereuse, Jasmine, and Fleur d’Orange Cold Creams.

Are prepared they are cost

all

in similar

manner

to violet (first form)

very exquisite preparations, but as they

more than rose cold cream, perfumers are not inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter.

much

Camphor Cold Cream. Almond

oil,

Rose-water,

.

.

-

.

Wax

and Spermaceti, Camphor, . ÂŤ Otto of rosemary,

(

Otherwise

Camphor .

.

Ice )

1 lb. 1 lb.

.

1 oz.

.

2 oz

.

1

drachm.

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CUCUMBER

COLI>

209

CREAM.

Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the

oil,

then

manipulate as for cold cream of roses.

Cucumber Cold Cream. \

(

Crime de Concombre.)

.

*

Almond Green

1 lb.

oil,

oil,

.

.’

.

.

.

.

.

Juice of cucumber,'

Wax

and sperm, each,

Otto of neroli,

The cucumber

.

1 oz.

1 lb. .

.

.

.

.

juice

1 oz.

.

J drachm.

•’

is

readily obtained

by sub-

jecting the fruit to pressure in the ordinary tincture press.

It

enough

must be raised

to a

temperature high

albumen and then strained through fine the heat is detrimental to the odor on

to coagulate the small portion of

which

it

linen,

as

contains,

account of the great volatility of the otto of cu-

cumber.

The following method may be adopted

with advantage

Slice the fruit very fine with a

cucumber-cutter, and place them in the

oil

;

after

remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation, using fresh fruit in the strained

oil

;

no

warmth is necessary, or at most, not more than a summer heat then proceed to make the cold cream in the usual manner, using the almond oil. thus odorized, the rose-water, and other ingredients in the ;

regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with a

little

,

neroli.

Another and commoner preparati6n of cucumber is

found among the Parisians, which

scented with- the juice from the

is

fruit,

lard simply

thus:

—The

18 *

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— THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

210 lard

liquefied

is

by heat

in a vessel subject to a water-

bath; the cucumber juice

then stirred well into

is

the vessel containing the ingredients

The

in a quiet situation to cool.

the surface, and the fluid juice

;

when

is

it;

now placed

lard will rise to

cold must be removed frotn

the same manipulation being repeated

as required, according to the strength of

as often

odor of the

fruit desired in the grease. §

Piters’

Benzoinated lard,

Pomade of Cucumber. .-

.

.

.

.

.6 lbs.

.

Spermaceti,

2 lbs.

Essence of cucumbers,

.

'

1 lb.

-.

Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep stantly in motion while it cools,

now beat

in a mortar, gradually adding the essence of

bers

con-

cucum-

continue to beat the whole until the spirit is

;

evaporated, and the

pomade

is

Melons and other similar .

it

the grease

treated in the same way. bers,” p. 204.)

beautifully white.

scent grease

fruit will

(Se& “ Essence of Cucum-

*

.

.

Pomade Divine.

Among pomade

the thous^bd- and

one quack nostrums,

powder^ has obtained a

divine, like James’s

reputation far above the most sanguine expectations

of

its

This article strictly belongs to the

concoctors.

druggist, being sold as a remedial agent less,

what'

fumer.

is

It

sold

is

is

;

neverthe-

almost always vended by the per-

prepared thus

:

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CAMPHOR PASTE.

.... ..... ....

Spermaceti,

Lard,

Almond

Gum

..

211

•.

.

.

”.

.

.

'

ilb.

.

.Jib.

oil,

benzoin,

.

.

Vahilla beans,

.

_

ilb.

.

1J oz.

..

Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature qot exceeding 90° C. six hours

it is fit

strain,

to

After

(Must he stamped

the bottles for sale.

five or

and may be poured into if its

medi-

cinal qualities are stated.) •

Almond Balls. Purified suet,

.

White wax, Otto of almonds,

u

cloves,

.

• •

we* •

.

i

.

J lb.

.

.

.

iii.

1

drachm.

i

drachm.

Camphor Balls.

.

Purified suet,

Both the above

articles are

the- material is cast in a

*

.

.

J oz.

Jib. lb.

sold either white or

When

thoroughly melted,

mould; ounce gallipots with

smooth bottoms answer very well

Some venders

1 lb.

.

,

.

colored with alkanet root.

.

.

* White wax, Camphor, Otto of French lavender or rosemary,

for

casting in.

use only large pill-boxes.

Camphor Paste. Sweet almond

J lb.

oil,

Purified lard,

Wax

and spermaceti, Camphor, .

i each,

lb.

1 oz.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

212

Glycckike Balsam. White wax, oz.

.

1

.

Jib.

.

2 oz.

.

1 drachm.

Spermaceti,

Almond

oil,

Glycerine,

.

Otto of roses,

Of

the remedial action of

.

above pre-

'of the

we cannot here discuss ; in giving the forenough for us that they are sold by per-

parations mulae,

any

it is

fumers.

Rose Lir Salve.

Almond

oil,

.

.

Spermaceti and wax, each,

Alkanet

-

..... .

.

.

.

J lb.

.

.

2 oz. 2 oz.

root,

Otto of roses,

Place the wax, sperm, and

oil

1 drachm.

on. to the alkanet

root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath

;

after

the materials are melted, they must digest on the

alkanet to extract

hours

its color for at least

finally, strain

;

through

four or five

fine muslin,

then add

the perfume just before it cools.

White Lip Salve. Almond

Wax

pil,

.

.

v

.

gerani\un,

After ‘old,

.

lip salve

is

.

.

J U>. J oz.

.

J

.

and Spermaceti, each,

Otto of almonds, •

1

.

drachm. “

,

poured into the pots and got

a red-hot iron must be held oyer them for a

nutc or

so, in

order that the heat radiated from

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213

LIP SALVE.

the irons it

may

an even

melt the surfage of the salve and give

face. n

Common Lip Salve Is

made simply

of equal parts of lard and suet, colored

with alkanet root, and perfumed

gamot

to

vjith

an ounce of ber-

every pound of shIvq.

r

i


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

214

"

The name

of

XII.

POMADES AND

apple, because

SECTION

pomatum

it

is

OILS7

derived from po?num , an

was originally made by macerating

over-ripe apples in grease.

If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves, then

exposed to the

air for

a few days, and

afterwards macerated in purified melted lard, or any other fatty matter, the grease will become perfumed.

Repeating the operation with the same grease several times, produces real

*(

pomatum.”

According to a recipe published more than a century ago

orange

the

form given

is

:

— “ Kid’s

an

grease,

sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water,

and half

a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last

The

sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds.” Dr. Quincy, observes, that “ the apple

is

nificance at all in the recipe,” and, like

many authors

author,

of no sig-

of the present day, concludes that the reader

is

well acquainted with the subject as the writer,

as

and

therefore considers that the weights or bulk of the

materials in iiis recipe are, likewise, of no significance.

According to ancient writers, ointment, are synonymous

perfumed greases.

Among

unguent, pomatum,

titles for

medicated and

biblical interpreters, the

word is mostly rendered “ ointment;” thus we have in Prov. 27 9, “ Ointment and perfume re-: significant

:

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215

SCENTLESS GREASE. joicc the heart;” in Eccles. 9

“Let thy head

8,

:

lack

...

no ointment.”

Perfumers, acting upon their

own

or Dr. Quincy's

pay no regard to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of advice,

them or

blended,

all

name

according to the

to-

produce a particular result,

that

it

The mo3t important thing facture of'potnatum, &c.,

is

bears.

-

to start off with a perfectly

inodorous grease, whptevey that grease

Inodorous lard

obtained thus

is

manu-

to Consider in the

of perfectly fresh lard, place

it

:

may

be.

—Take, say 28

lbs.

in a well-glazed vessel,

that can be submitted to the heat of a boiling salt-

water bath, or by -steam under a slight pressure the lard

is

melted, add to

it

alum and two ounces of table for

some time,

in fact

till

;

when

one ounce of powdered salt

a scum

;

maintain the heat

rises, consisting in

a great measure of coagulated proteine compounds,

membrane,

&c.,

which must be skimmed

off

;

the liquid grease appears of a uniform nature

when it is

allowed to grow- cold.

The

lard

is.

now

to be washed.

This

is

done in

is a work of much labor, amply repaid by the result. About

small portions at a time, and which; however,

is

a pound of the grease little

on the

incline,

to trickle over

it

;

is

now placed on a

slate slab

a

a supply of good water being set the surfaoe of the grease

is

then

constantly renewed by an operative working a muller

over in oil.

it,

precisely as

In

this

way

a

color-maker grinds paints

the water removes any traces of

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

216 alum or

salt,

matter.

Washed

in this

the

also

the

Finally,

way,

is

last

traces of nitrogenous

when the whole

grease,

cold

is

remelted, the heat being main-

When

tained enough to drive off any adhering water. finished.

it is

Although purifying grease

way

in this

trouble-

is

some, and takes a good deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for

perfuming with flowers, be-

cause a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cov6r

mal odeur than the expense of thus deodorizing

its

Moreover,

it.

pig,”

it

is

if

lard be used that

“ smells of

next to -impossible to impart to

delicate odor

;

and

if

the

any

it

strongly perfumed by the addi-

tion of ottos, the unpurified grease will not keep, but

quickly becomes rancid. therefore, grease that

is

Under any

circumstances,

not 'perfectly inodorous

is

a

very expensive material to use in the manufacture of

pomades.

• .

v

In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are

made by Enfleurage,

Maceration’* (see pp. 37,

or by

38), the purification of

grease for the purpose of these manufactures sufficient

The

importance to become

purification of beef

a.

great measure the Same as that for lard solidity pf suets requires a

for

is

of

separate trade.

nnd mutton :

suet

is

in a

the greater

mechanical arrangement

washing them of a more powerful nature than can

be applied by hand labor.

Mr. Ewen,' who

is

undoubt-

edly the best fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating •

upon a circular slab

Annals of Pharmacy,

vol,

ii,

;

motion

is

given

pp. 168, 169.

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%

217

CASSIB POMADE. to the roller

by an axle which passes through the

centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which

the suet is placed

;

being higher in the centre than at

the sides, the stream of water flows away after

once passed over the suet ; in

ment

the same as for lard.

is

otfier respects

it

has

the treat-

These greases used by

title of “ body,” tantamount French nomenclature of corps; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft corps (lard). For making extraits such as extrait de violette, jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred but when scented pomade is to be used in

perfumers have a general to the

,

;

fabrication of unguents for the hair,

pomades of

soft

corps are the most useful.

The method .of perfuming grease by the

direct pro-

cess with flowers having already been described under

the respective names of the flowers that impart' the

odor thereto,

it

remains now only to describe those

compounds that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected with this branch of

perfumery as has not been previously mentioned. Acacia- Pomade, commonly called Cassie Poma•

made with

a purified body-grease, by macera-

tion with the little

round yellow buds of the Acacia

tum,

is

'

*

Famesiana. Black ourrant cassie,

leaves,

•*“

and which the French term

have an odor very much resembling cassie

(acacia),

and are used extensively

true acacia pomades and

oils.

for adulterating the

The near

similarity of

name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical connection), together with 19

the

word

.

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TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.

218

cassia a familiar perfume in England, lias produced ,

generally confused ideas in this country as to the true origin of the odor casse, cassia,

and

;

more perspicuous

now under

in future, the materials will if

dis-

always

prepared from the Acacia

Famesiana; Casse, when from if

Cassie,

render the matter

in order to

be denominated Acacia, Cassia,

discussion.

be understood now, are three

will

it

tinct substances

black currant; and

derived from the bark of the

Qinnamomum

Cassia.

Benzoin Pomade an6 Oil. ;

Benzoic acid

is

perfectly soluble

in hot grease,

llalf an ounce of benzoic acid being dissolved in half

a pint. of hot olive or almond

oil,

deposits on cooling

beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals that effloresce

from vanilla beans

a portion of the acid,

;

however, remains dissolved. ,in the temperature, and imparts to

benzoin

;

upon

this idea is

it

oil at

the ordinary

the peculiar

aroma

of

based the principle Qf per-

gum benzoin by the direct process, by macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted

fuming grease with that

is,

suet or lard for a few hour's, at a temperature of about

80° C. their

to

90° C.

*

odoriferous

treated in the same

Nearly

all

principle

way

;

the gum-resins.give up to

this fact

fatty bodies,

when

becoming generally

known, will probably give rise to the -preparation of some new ‘remedial ointments, such as Unguentum myrrhee , Unguentum assafaetida, and the like.

Tonquin Pomade, and Tonquin Oil, are prepared by macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either

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bear’s grease. melted fat or

warm

oil,

219

from twelve to twenty-eight

hours, in the proportion of

.-.Jib.

Tonquin beans, Fat or

oil,

.

.

.

.

.

Strain through fine muslin will

;

when

4

.

.

lbs.

cold, the grease

have a fine odor of the beans. Vanilla Oil and Pomade.

Vanilla pods,

Fat or

'

$ lb.

4 lbs.

oil,

Macerate at a temperature of 25° C. for three or four days ; finally strain. , *

These pomatums and

oils,

together with the French

pomades' and huiles already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of greases sold by perfumers.

tums and wax, in

oil,

are prepared

oils

&c., with various ottos

many instances more

all

the best hair

Inferior scented

by perfuming ;

poma-

latd, suet,

the results, however,

expensive. thaji the foregoing,

are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet grease, however slightly perfumed

—for

by maceration or

enflenrage with flowers, is far more agreeable to the

when scented by ottos. The undermentioned greases have obtained great

olfactqry nerve than

popularity, mainly because their perfume

is

lasting

and flowery. Pomade called Bear’s Grease. I

.

The most popular and “ made thus :

original” bears’ grease

is

.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

220

Huile de rose, u fleur d’orange, “ aciicm, 11

•>

of each,

tubereuse and jasmin,

Almond

....

oil,

Lard,

.

.

.

Otto of bergamot, “ cloves, .

Melt the

solid greases

and

Jib.

.

10

.

12 lbs.

.

2 lbs.

.

4 oz.

.

Acacia pomade,

.'

.

J

lbs.

2 oz.

-.

together by a water-

oils

bath, then add the ottos.

Bears’ grease thus prepared

“ set”

if

is

summer

in the pots at a

weather, or

just hard

enough to

In very

heat.

warm

required for exportation to the East or

West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums instead of oils, or more lard and less almond «a. Circassian Cream.•

Purified lard,

Benzoin

.

.

Almond •

.

.

.

.

"

v

.

oil,

1 lb.

.

suet,

1 lb.

.

French rose pomatum-,

colored with alkanet,

.

*

.

.

.

J lb.

.

.

-2 lbs.

Otto of rose,

-

J oz. •

Balsam of Flowers. French rose pomatum, u violet pomatum,

.

Almond

...

oil,

.

Otto of bergamot,

.

12 oz. . .

.

.

.

.

.12

oz.

-

2 lbs.

.

J,oz. •

«»

Crystallized Oil. Huile de rose, . “ tubereuse, u flcur d’orange, Spermaceti,

.

(First quality }. .

.

.

.

.

^

.

. '

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

.

.

} lb.

.

.

8 oz.

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MARROW CREAM. Crystallized Oil.

221

Second quality.) (

Almond,

.

;

.

.

...

.

Spermaceti,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Otto of lemon,

.

.

.

.

.

»

2i

.

i

lbs. lb.

3 oz.

Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a waterbath, then

add the

flocks disappear

he warm

;

;

oils

continue the heat until

;

let the jars into

which

it

is

good

mass congeals without

crystals; if cooled rapidly, the

the appearance of crystals.

all

pour«d

cool as slowly as possible, to insure

This preparation has a

very nice appearance, and so far

sells well

;

but

its

continued use for anointing the hair renders the head scurfy

;

indeed, the crystals of sperm

out of the hair in flakes after

it

may

be combed

has been used a week

Or two. Castor Oil Pomatum. Tubereuse pomatum, Castor

oil,

Almond

.

.

Otto of bergamot,

*

.

.

...

oil,

,

.

.

.

.

<

'

.

-

.

.

.

.

lib.

.

.-

.

•.

. .

i lb.

.

i

.

1 oz.

lb.

Balsam op Neroli. French rose pomatum, “ jasmine pomatum,

Almond

oil,

.

.

.

.•

.

i

\

.

.

i lb.

.

.

i lb.

...

.

#lb‘.

.

1

.

1 lb.

.i

.

.

.

Otto of neroli,

drachm.

Marrow Cream. Purified lard,

.

.Almond oil, Palm oil, ...

...

.

Otto of cloves, “ bergamot,

lemon,

.

,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

f .

,

.

.

. .

.

1

.

.

.

1 lb.

1 oz.

i drachm.

i oz. •!

i oz..

!)*

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

222

Marrow Pomatum. Purified lard,

.

suet,

•.

.

Otto of lemon, “ bergamot, “ cloves,

r.

,

.

.

.

....

.

'

.

4

lbs.

.

2 lbs.

.

1 oz.

.

$ oz.

.

3 drachms.

Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula for half an hour Qr more ; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only indrease the hulk of the mixtures, hut impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation; rendering the

pomatum

this state it is obvious that it

^

than otherwise.

light

fills

and spongy

;

in

out- more profitably

*

Common Violet Pomatum. Purified lard,

.

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

Washed acacia pomatum, “

rose pomatuiii,

6 oz.

.

,

.

.

.

4

.

oz.

r

Manipulate as for marrow pomatum. ^

In

all

the cheap

preparations for

the

hair, the

manufacturing perfumers used the washed French

pomatums and the washed French, oils for making their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that originally havo been the best

pomatums and

huiles prepared -by enfleurage

and by

maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles

have been subject to digestion in alcohol for

the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief.

After the

poured

k;.

off

spirit ;

has been on the pomatums, &c.,

the residue

is

it is

then called mashed poma-

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22S

PHILOCOME.

and still retain an odor strong enongh manufacture of most hair greases.

turn,

For pomatums of

other, odors

is

it

for the

only necessary

to substitute rose, jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in

place of the acacia

pomatum

Pomade Double^

in the

above formulae.

Milleflettbs.

Rose, jasmine, fleur d’orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are

all

made

in winter, with two-thirds best

pomatum, one-third best French

oils;

French

in summer,

equal parts.' "

Pomade a la Heliotrope.

French rose pomade, Vanilla

...

oil,

.

.

;

.

.

.

Haile de jasnyne,

,

tubereuse,

.

.

fleur d’orange,

.

Otto of almonds,

cloves,

.

(

Jib.

.

4 oz. 2 oz.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.3 drops.

.

Huile Antique.

1 lb.

.

.

.

A

*

6 drops.

la Heliotrope.)

Same- as the above, substituting rose

oil

for the

pomade. ‘

PHrLOCOME.

The name of

.

this preparation,

which

of Greek and Latin, signifying “ a hair,” was first introduced

and a very good name

is

.

a compound

ftiend to

the

by the Parisian perfumers;

it

is,

for Philocome.is un-

doubtedly one of the best unguents for the hair that is

made.

'

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

224

Fitilocome.

White wax, Fresh

.

rose-oil,

First quality.) •

10 oz.

i lb.

.

1 lb.

.

acacia

(

.

.

oil,

i

.

.

lb.

'

jasmine

oil,

ffcur

tubereuse

.

d’orange

oil,

.

1 lb.

.

*

1 lb.

oil,

Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath at the lowest possible temperature. - Stir the mixture as it do not pour out the Philocome until

cools;

it

is

nearly cool enough to set; let the jars* bottles, or pots into which

it is filled

be slightly warmed,

for sale

same temperature

or at least of the

as the Philocome,

otherwise the bottles chill the material as in,

and make

Philocome. White wax,

Almond

oil,

it is

poured

appear of an uneven texture.

it

(

Second quality ,)

»•

*

1

.

* .

.

.

Otto of bergamot,

lemon,

lavender,

cloves,

.

5 oz. 2 lbs. oz.

1

oN

.

.

’.

.

2 drachms.

drachm.

1

Fluid Philocome.

Take 1 ounce of wax

to 1

Pommade HoVsroise. Lead

plaster,

Acacia

hnile,

T

pound of (

For

oil.

the Moustache.)

.

.

*

a

.

' .

Otto of roses, s “ cloves, .• M almonds,

-•

.

1 lb.

.

.

2 oz.

M

.

2

.

1

.

1

.

drachms drachm. drachm.

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BLACK COSMETIQUE.

225

Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in

oil

mix the ingredients by

;

first

made with oxide best

to-

melting the

Lead

plaster in a vessel in boiling water.

of lead boiled with olive

procure

plaster oil

is

it is

:

ready made from the wholesale

it

druggists.

Hard or Purified .suet,

.

.

Stick Pomatums. .

.

.

White wax, Jasmine pomatum, . Tubereuse pomatum, Otto of rose,

.... •••.,.

.

.

Another Form,

.

'

.

.

.

Otto of bergamot,

cassia,

The

above

Brown They

.

.

’.

.

.

recipes

i lb.

.

} lb.

.

1

drachm.

.

1

lb. lb.

... .

1 lb.

.

—cheaper.

Suet,

Wax,

lib.

.

.

.

.

I

.

1 oz.

.

1

drachm.

White Batons.

produce

Black Batons are also in demand.' made in tho same way as the above, but

-and

are

lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such colors are best purchased ready ground at an colored with

artist’s colorman’s.

-

Black and Brown Cosmeticjuk.

Such

as

is

sold

by Rimmel,

is

prepared with a

nicelyrscented soap strongly colored with lamp-black

or with umber.

The soap

ing added while the soap

up in oblong

is

is

raeltecf,

soft

;

pieces.

It is used as a

and the

when cold

color-

it is

cut

.

temporary dye for the moustache,

applied with a small brush and water.

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

226

SECTION •

XIII. '

*

UAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY.

By way of

of personal adornment, few practices are

more ancient

origin than that of painting the face,

dyeing the hair, anjd blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes. It is

a practice universal among the

women

of the

higher and middle classes in Egypt, and very com-

mon among

those of the lower orders, to blacken the

edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye,

The

with a black powder, which they term kohhl.

kohhl

is

applied with a small probe of wood, ivory,

or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. is

This

moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped

in the

powder, and drawn along the edges of the eye-

lids.

It

is

thought to give a very soft expression to

the eye, the size of which, in appearance, to

it

enlarges

which circumstances .probably Jeremiah

when he

writes,

Egyptians,

A

vol.

singular

i,

4

:

30.

(or

make

thino eyes) with painting, in vain shalt thou thyself fair.”-—Jer.

;

refers

“ Though thou .rentest thy face

See also Lane’s Modern

p. 41, et seq.

custom

observable

is

Moorish and Arab females

both

among

—that of ornamenting the

face between the eyes with clusters of bluish spots

or

other

small

devices,

become permanent. similar manner,

and

which, being stained,

The chin

is

and a narrow blue

also spotted in a line extends

from

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PAINTING THE FACE. the point of

The

it,

and

is

227

continued down the throat.

eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and ex.

tremities of

The

the eyelids, are colored black.

and sometimes other parts of the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a soles,

plant called

Henna ( Lawsonia

I

inermis), the leaf of

which somewhat resembles the myrtle, and

is

dried

The back of the and ornamented in this

for the purposes above mentioned.

hand

is

.

often colored

also

On

wa"y with different devices.

holidays they paint

their cheeks of a red brick color, a

narrow red

line

being also drawn down the temples.

In Greece, “ for coloring the lashes and sockets of

gum labdanum on some smoke which ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and the eye they throw incense or coals of

fire,

intercept the

closing one of her eyes, took the two lashes between

the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, pulled

them forward, and then, thrusting X

*

in at the external

#

i

|

corner a sort of bodkin on probe which had been

immersed

in the soot,

and withdrawing

it,

the particles

previously adhering to the probe remained within the eyelashes.”

Dr.

Shaw

Chandler’s Travels in Greece. among other curiosities .

states that

that

were taken out of the tombs at Sahara relating to

Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of

this

powder.

In England the same practice

is

adopted by

many

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

228

persons that have gray hair

;

but instead of using the

black material in the form of a powder,

it is

employed

as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body,

such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous article.

Turkish Hair Dyk.

In Constantihople there are some persons, particu-

who devote themselves

larly Armenians,

to the pre-

money Amongst

paration of cosmetics, and obtain large sums of

from those desirous of learning these ‘cosmetics

is

a black dye for the hair, which, ac-

cording to Landerer,

manner

this art.

is

prepared in the following

:

Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a to a paste, which oil

is

little oil

roasted in an iron pan until the

vapors cease to evolve, upon which the residue

triturated with water into a paste, to dryness.

which

is

At

is

and heated again

the ‘same time a metallic mixture,

brought 'from Egypt to the commercial marts

of the East, and which

is

termed in Turkish Rastiko-

petra or Rastik- Yuzi,

is

employed for this purpose. is by some Arme-

,

This "metal, which looks like dross,

nians intentionally fused, and consists of iron and It obtains

copper.

its

name from

its

use for the

coloration of the hair, and particularly, the eyebrows

for rastik

fine

means eyebrows, an<T yuzi

powder of

this

metal

is

stone.

as intimately

The

mixed as

possible with the moistened gall-mass into a paste,

which

is

preserved in a

damp

quires the blackening property.

place,

by which

it

ac-

In some cases this

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»

LITHARGE HAIR DYE. mass

is

mixed with the powder of odorous substances

which are used is,

pleasant odor

ingredient

is

ambergris.

,

of this dye

and called andof these the principal

in the seraglio as perfumes,

harti that

fingers,

229

;

To blacken

the hair a

little

triturated in the hand- or between the

is

with which the hair

"or

beard

well rubbed.

is

After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully

and

blackj

it is

a real pleasure to see such fine black

beards as are met with in the East

who use

this

vantage in

among

the Turks

Another and importamt ad-

black dye.

use of this dyb consists, therein, that

thfe

the hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black,

when

it

has been once dyed with this substance. That

the coloring properties of this dye are to be chiefly

ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found

by treating tliQ'mass with water, may he with certainty assumed. Jj 1:riIAKGE

litharge,

Quicklime,

.

make

it

.lime,

»

% .

.

Calcined magnesia,

Slake the

Hair Dye.

»

a

Powdered

.

.

using as

disintegrate, then

...

.

..

.

little

.

.

".

.

.

2 lbs.

.

&

lb.

.

£

lb.

water as possible to

mix the whole by a

sievo.

Another Way.

Slaked lime,

.

-

.

.

.

.

.

.3 lbs.

White lead in powder,

2 lbs.

Litharge,

1 lb. -•

Mix by

.

and well cork. bo sold with the above.— Mix the

sifting, bottle,

Direction

to


;

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

230

powder with enough water fluid

form a thick creamy

to

with the aid of a small brush, completely cover

;

the hair to be dyed with this mixture

brown, allow

;

keep

by wearing an

so

it

'“After

the

hair

moist,

it is

light

it is

As

necessary

oiled silk, india-rubber,

or other waterprqof cap. •

dye a

to

black* twelve hours.

the dye does mot act unless -to

;

remain on the hair four hours

to

it

dark brown, -eight hours

dyed, the refuse must be

is

thoroughly washed from the head with plain water;

when

dry, the hair joust be oiled.”.

Dye.

Stmple'Sii'.ver

Nitrate of silver,

Rose-water,

"

.

*

(Otherwise “Ycgelable /b/e.”)

.

.

.

.

.

it

hair from grease by washing

The

.1

.

.

is

'

oz.

1-pint.

.

is

necessary to free the

it

with soda or pdarlash

must be quite dry prior

hair

plying the dye, which

to ap-

best laid on with an old tooth-

This dye does not “strike” for several hours.

brush. •It

.

.

Before using this dye

and water.

.

needs- scarcely be observed that its effects are more

rapidly produced by exposing the hair to sunshine and

I

air.

Hair D^e, with Mordant. Nitrate of silver,

Rose-water'

The mordant '

*

..

.

.

(2?roten.)

.1

...

— Sulphuret of-potasaium,

«

Water,

,

,

.

...

.

.

.

.

,

(

n

Water,

* .

.

.

.

bottles.

Black .)

.1 ••

The mordant .—Sulphuret of potassium, *

“ (

white “ 8 oz.

1 oz.,

Hair Dye, with Mordant. Nitrate of silver,

Water,

blue bottles.

oz.,

9 oz. *

.

oz.,

blue bottles.

6 oz. 1 oz.,

white

bottles. |

6 oz.

Digitized by

C J

jU


BROWN HAIR DYE. The mordant

is

281

to be applied to the hair first * ».’*

'

dry, the silver solution.

;

when

-

Great care must be taken that the sulphuret

.

is

fresh made, or at least, well preserved in closed bottles,

otherwise, instead of the mordant acting to

hair black,

will

it

the mordant

tend to impart a

is goo.d, it

and although

make

yelloto- hue.

the

.When

has a very disagreeable odor,

and best dye,

this is the quickest

its

un-

silver in

the

pleasant smell has given rise to the

-

.Blue

*

bottles .

Inodorous Dye.

—Dissolve the nitrate of

water as in the above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to

ammonia

small portions until

in

becomes bright from the oxide. of solved-

fhe silver

fluid

add

again

being redis-

r

White botths

.

—Pour

•(*

half a pint of boiling rose-

water upon three ounces of powdered ga(l-nuts ;-when cold, strain is

and

bottle.

used in the same

*

way

the sulphuret mordant.

This forms the mordant, and as the. first-named dye, like is

-It

the previous one.

not so” good a dye. as

' .

.

*

French Brown Dye.

Blue

Bottles

.

— Saturated

*

solution' of sulphate of

add ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as with the copper

;

to this '

silver in the above),

producing the azure

liquid.-

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232

TIIK

White Bottle».

ART OP PERFUMERY.

— Mordant — Saturated .

solution of

prussiate of potass.

manufacture of perukes,

Artificial hair, for the

dyed

in the

same manner as wool.

There are but

all

in the

is

-

market several other hair

dyes,-

of them are but modifications of the above,

possessing no

marked advantage.

-

.

.

Lead Dye.

may

Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, thus

prepared

potassie as it

:

— Dissolve

much

freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as

take up, and dilute the resulting clear solution

will

Care must be

with three ounces of distilled water.

taken not to wet the skin unhecessarily with Quick Depilatory or Russia. .

As

(For removing

it.

.

hair.)

the ladies of this country consider the growth

of hair

upon the upper

lip,

upon the arms, and on the

back of the neck, to be detrimental

who are

to beauty, those

troubled wjth such physical indications of

good health and to

be

one ounce of liquor

in

stamina have long had recourse

vital

rusma or depilatory

for

removing

it.

This or analogous, preparations were introduced into this country from the East, in use in the

.

harems of Asia

Best lime slaked,

Mix

.

.

Orpiment; in powder,

the material

"

.'

.

rusma having been

many -ages.

for

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

by means of a drum

sieve

3 lb.

i

;

lbs.

pre-


RUSMA OR DEPILATORY.

233 stoppered

the same' for sale in well-corked or

serve

•'

bottles.

Mix

Directions to be sold with the above.

depilatory powder with enough water to render

a creamy consistency five

lay

;

it

upon the hair

the of

it

for about

minutes, or until it^ caustic action upon the skin

renders

it

necessary to be removed

to shaving is then to be

a similar process

;

gone through, but instead of

using a razor, operate with an ivory or bone paperknife

then wash the part with plenty of water, and

;

apply a

The

little

*

cold cream.

precise time to leave depilatory

upon the part

to be depilated cannot be given, because there

tresses” require

is

a

“ Raven

physical difference in the nature of Hair.

more time than “ flaxen locks ” the ;

sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered.

A small feather is very 'good test for its action. A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed a-

in

finding that I have only given one formula for depilatory.

The

receipts'

might easily have been

The use of

creased in number, but not in quality. arsenical

compounds

is objectionable,

in-

but

it

undoubt-

edly increases the depilating action of the compounds.

A to

few compilers of “ Receipt Books,” “ Supplements

Pharmacopoeias,” and Others, add to

lime

the

“charcoal powder,” “carbonate of potass,” “starch,” &c.; but

what action have these materials

—upon

hair

?

quicklime, but

The it is

recommended above

simplest depilatory

less energetic ;

and fellmongers, with

it

— chemically is

moistened

than the mixture

answers very well for tanners

whom

time

is

no object.

-

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TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.

234

SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS.

A

lady’s

I

of some absorbent powder

greatest benefit

indeed, from our ^arliest

;

used for drying the skin with the

is

no wonder that

J

advanced years,

composition,

'

incomplete without a box

toilet-table is

infancy, powder

in

*

*

»

if,

by

use

its

is

continued

slight modifications in its

dan be employed not only as an absor-

it

bent, but as a means of “personal adornment.

quite within limits in stating that

many

-

Wehre

ton-weights

of such, powders .are .used in this country annually.

They are

composed of various starches,

principally

prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts,

mixed more or

—of

powdered

less with-

talo

Haiiy,

-

steatitfe (soap-stone),

and oxide of termed

French chalk, oxide of

Thp most popular

zinc, &c.

bisjhutb,

is

what

is

Violet Powderi

Wheat

starch,

-

.

>

Orris-root powder,

Otto of lemon, “ bergamot,

a

'

.

*

#

, •

«

.

cloves,

.

12

lbs.

.

2 lbs.

.

J 0Z.

.

i oz.

.

2 drachms.

% A

• *

v

Wheat

-

Rose* Face Powder. starch,

.

s

*

Rose Pink, Otto of rose,

.

.

.

-

.

7 lbs.

£ drachm. 2 drachms.

1

saatal,

J

.

2

«

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THEATRICAL PAINT8 NECESSARY.

235

Plain or Unscented Hair Powder

wheat

Is pure

starch.

~ Starch,

,*

.

.

•Oxide of Bismuth,

.

.

.

.

*

-

.

French chalk,

4 oz.

..

.

I lb.

.

Oxide oflbismuth, ,

1 lb.

.

Perle Powder.

..

Oxide of zinc,

.

.

.

v

*

-

Face Powder.

...

.

I oz.

. '

....

'

L oz.

.

Blanc de Perle

'

Is pure oxide of bismuth

iir

powder.

French Blanc Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.

This it

is

-

the best face powder made, particularly as

from emanation of the skin or

.does not discolor

impure atmosphere. Liquid Blanc (tor theatrical use).

The is

usfe

absolutely necessary

florid

of a white paint by actresses and dancers, ;

complexion, which

scenic effects,

great exertion produces a is

incompatible with certain

and requires a cosmetic to subdue

Madame. V

,

it."

during her .stage career, has pro-

bably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus Rose or orange-flower water, Oxide of bismuth, .

Mixed by long

.

.

:

.

.

.

.

.1 *.

4

pint. oz.

trituration.

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

236

Calcined Talc

and

Is also extensively used as a toilet powder,

sold under various

names

is

not so unctuous as the

it ib

;

ordinary kind.

...

Rouge axd Red Points. '

*

These preparations are in demand, not only for by priyate individuals. Various

theatrical use, but

shades of color are made, to suit the complexions of

One

the blonde and brunette. that termed

.

is

»

Bloom of Roses.

Strong liquid ammoqia, Finest carmine, Rose-water,'

of the best kind •

Esprit de rose (triple)f

.

.

.

.•

.

.

.

-.

.

*.

*.

i

.

.

*

oz.

$ oz.

.•

.

.

.

.

.

1 pint.

.

.

.

J'o t.

.

*

Place the carmine into a pint bottlt^ and pour on it

the

ammonia ;

them

allow

to

remain together,' with

occasional agitation, for two days

water and esprit, and well mix. a quiet situation for a .week rities

from the carmine

“Bloom

of Roses”,

is

;

;

then add the rosePlace the bottle in

any precipitate of impu-

will subside

;

the supernatant

then to be bottled for sale.

,

If

the carmine was perfectly pjure there would be no precipitate

makers

;

nearly is

all

the carmine purchased from the

more or less premium to

price being.a

sophisticated, its

enormous

its adulteration.

Carmine cannot be manufactured profitably on a small scale for commercial purposes;

four

or

manufacturers supply the whole of Europe

!

five

M.

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TOILET ROUGES.

Rue Grenier

Titard,

237

Lazare, Paris, produces,

St.

without doubt, the " finest article

singular enough,

;

however, the principal operative in the establishment is

*

an old Englishman.'

“ The preparation of -the

.

carmine

finest

mystery, because, on the one hand,

itf

still

a

consumption

its

being very limited, few persons are engaged in

its

manufacture, and, upon 'the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on

it

cannot be

Dr. Ure.

conveniently made.”

In the Encyclo'p&die Rcret

be found no less

will

than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine;

number of formulae

will convince the

reader that the true form

Analysis has taught us

is

the

most superficial

yet withheld. exact composition

its

;

but

a cejtain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.

Most of

the'

recipes given

are from this source

value

$e

refrain,

;

by Dr. Ure, and

others,

but as they possess no practical

from reprinting them. .

»

4

Toilet Rouges.

Are prepared of

different

shades by mixing fine

.carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one

drachm of carmine

two ounces of

to

one of carmine to three of

talc,

talc, or

and so on.* These

rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots

;

for the latter the

portion of solution of

rouge

gum

is

mixed with a mijiute

tragacanth.

prepares a great variety of rouges.

M. Titard

In some instances

the coloring-matter of the cochineal

is

spread upon


THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

238

thick paper and dried very gradually

sumes a beautiful green effect is also

known the

observed

-in

many

evidently

is.

'

imposed

way, and has been

saifie

When

then

it

“ pink saucers.”

as Chinese book rouge

country for

;

as-

This curious optical

tint.

What

is

made

in

into

this

years.

the bronze green cards are moistened with

a piece, of

damp

cotton wool, and applied to the lips

or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful rosy -hue.

Common

sorts of rouge, called

“ theatre rouge,” are ;

made from the Brazil-wood

lake

'

another kind

is

derived from the safflower (Catthamus tinctorius) f

from

this plant also

*

The

safflower

coloring-matter principle

its

is

is

made

Pink Sai'cers.

washed removed

is

in ;

water until the yellow

the carthamine or color

then dissolved out by a weak solution of

carbonate of soda into the saucers

the solution.

;

the coloring

is

then precipitated

by the addition of sulphuric acid *

.

to

.

Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same

way

are used for the

same purpose, the former- being

sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Cr^pon rouge.

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TOOTH POWDERS.

239

SECTION XY. TOOTH POWDERS AXD MOUTH WASHES. #

••

Tooth powders, regarded cleansing the teeth, are most

cosmetics

as a means merely of commonly placed among

but this should not he, aS they assist

;

greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition

of the dental machinery, and so aid

much

may

manner, they although

By

in perfecting as

as possible the act of mastication.

it

a careful

true, subordinate medicinal agfcnts.

is

and prudent use of them, some of the

most frequent causes of early be prevented

In this

he considered as most useful,

;

loss of the teeth

may

these are, the deposition of tartar, the

swelling of the gums, and an

jmdue

acidity of the

'"The effect resulting from accumulation of the

saliva.

known to most persons, and it has been shown that swelling of the substance of the

tartar is well distinctly

gums

will

hasten the expulsion of the teeth from

their sockets

;

and the action of the

known to be Now, the structive. acid, is

powder

saliva, if

at least injurious, daily*

if

unduly

not de-

employment of a tooth

sufficiently hard, so as. to exert a tolerable

degree of friction upon the teeth, without, at the

same time, injuring the enatnel of the most

teeth, will, in

cases, almost always prevent the

mulating in such a degree injury to the teeth condition of the

;

and a

t&rtar accu-

as to cause subsequent flaccid,

spongy, relaxed

gums may be prevented

or overcome

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—

240

ART OP PERFUMERY.

TIIE

by adding

;

to such a tooth

powder, some tonic and

A

tooth powder containing

astringent ingredient.

charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish these

most cases, and therefore dentists gene-

results in

recommend

rally

such.

to the use of charcoal its

color

is

;

Still,

it is

by the

saliva, it

teeth,

and there

is'

there

are objections

too hard and resisting,

and

objectionable,

it is

perfectly insoluble

apt to become lodged between the

to collect

decomposing. animal and

-

vegetable matter around such particles as fixed in this position.

Cinchona bark,

may

be

too, is often

M. and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. Mialhe highly recommends the following formula

stringy,

Mialuks Tooth Powder.

!

Sugar of

milk, one thousand parts

and

oil

;

lake, ten parts

fifteen parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed,

pure tannin,

of orange flowers, so

much

as to impart an

agreeable flavor to the composition.

His directions for

tooth

the preparation of this

rub well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, previously powdered and sifted.; and lastly, the essential oils are

powder, are,

-to

to be carefully mixe'd with the

powdered substances.

Experience has convinced him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of which, will suffice

to

preserve the

gums and

teeth

in a

For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation healthy

state.

:

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ASTRINGENT DENTIFRICE.

241

Mialhe's Dentifrice.

thousand parts

Alcohol, one

hundred, parts

genuine kino, one

;

rhatany root, one hundred parts

;

tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts

gum

benzoin, $wo parts

parts

;

;

two

essential oil of canclla,

essential oil of mint,

two parts

;

tincture of

;

essential oil

;

of aniseed, one part.

The kino and the rhatany root are

to

in the alcohol for seven or eight days

;

be macerated

and

after

A

be added.

tration, the other articles are to

fil-

tea-

spoonful of this preparation mixed in three'or four

spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the ndouth, after the use of the tooth powder.

Camphorated Chalk. Precipitated chalk,

Powdered

.

orris-root,

Powdered camphor,

.

.

Reduce the camphor mortar with a together.

On

little

to

•

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

i'lb.

i lb.

powder by rubbing

spirit,

then

sift

it

in a

the whole well

account of the volatility of camphor,

the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in boxes lined with tinfoil.

Quinine Tooth Powder. Precipitated chalk,

1 lb.

Starch Powder,

i lb.

Orris powder,

i

lb*.

Sulphate of quinine,

1

drachm.

After

sifting, it is

ready

for sale. 21

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.

THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

242

Prepared Charcoal. Fresh-made charcoal Prepared chalk,

iu fine

powder,

7 lbs. 1 lb.

.

.

.......

Orris-root,

Catechu,

1 lb.

Myrrh,

1

lb.

i

Cassia bark,

i lb. .

.

.

.

i lb.

..

Sift.

Peruvian Bark Powder.

..... ..... ..*...

Peruvian bark "in powder, Bole Ammoniac, Orria powder,

.

.

.

Cassia bark,

Powdered myrrh, Precipitated chalk,

Otto of cloves,

.

.

.

.

i lb. 1

lb.

1 lb.

.

\ lb.

J lb.

i lb. i oz.

.

Homeopathic Chalk.

...... ......

Precipitated.chalk,

1 lb.

Powder

1 oz.

%

orris,'

starch,

1 oz.

?

Cuttle-Fish Powder.

Powdered

cuttle-fish,

'

.

Powder

.

orris,-

.

Otto of lemonsj

nerpli,

.

.

.

Precipitated chalk,

. •

...

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

*1 lb.

.

jib.

.-

.

lb.

.

.

,

'

*

i

.

.

.

1 oz.

-

j

drachm.

Borax and Myrrh Tooth Powder. Precipitated chalk,

Borax powder, Myrrh powder, Orris,

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

J

.

.

.

.

J lb.

j lb.

... .

.

.

.

lb.

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.

MOUTH WASHES

243

Farina Piesse’s Powder. Precipitated chalk, Orris-root,

.

.

.

Rose pink, T . Very fine powdered sugar, .

Otto of neroli, “ lemons,

-

-

.

2 lbs.

.

2 lbs. 1

.

drachm.

.

Jib.

.

.

J drachm.

.

.

.

J oz.

.

bergamot,

.

u

orange-peel,

.

J oz.

.

1

rosemary,

.

.

i oz.

drachm.

Rose Tooth Powder. •

....

Precipitated chalk, Orris,

Rose pink, Otto of rose, “

.

”*

.

..

.

lib.

.

santal,

.

Jib.

.

.

2

•*

*

1

•.

drachms drachm.

i drachm.

. 1

Opiate Tooth Paste.

Honey

....

Chalk, Orris,

.

.

^

..

Rose Pink,

rose,

Simple syrupf

lb.

.

.

J

.

Jib.

.

2

.

J drachm*

Otto of cloves, “ nu$me£,

J

,

*

lb.

drachms

"I

>

each,

'

-J

.

.

enough

to

form a paste.

MOUTH WASHES.

.

Violet Mouth Wash. Tincture of

. %

pint.

.

J

Esprit de rose,

.

J pint.

Spirit,

.

.

J

.

5 drop

orris,

.

Otto of almonds,

#

#

pint,

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THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.

244

Eau Botot. Tincture of cedar wood,

1

pint.

myrrh,

J pint.

rhatany,

} pint.

Otto of peppermint,

5 drops.

made with grape

All these -tinctures should be spirit,

or at least with pale unsweetened brandy. Botanic Styptic.

Rectified spirit,

Rhatany

Gum

myrrh,

Whole

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 quart.

root, y

of each,

l

2 oz.

cloves, J

Macerate for fourteen days, and

strain.

Tincture of Myrrh and Borax. *

Spirits of wine,

Borax,

Honey,

Gum

of each

*

>

'

*

.

1

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

/

myrrh,

.

Red sanders wood,

Rub

quart.

.

.

.

1

the honey and borax well together

then gradually add the stronger than '920,

i.e.

spirit,

proof

m a mortar,

which should not be spirit,

the myrrh,

and

sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days. Tincture of Myrrh with Eau de Cologne.

Eau de

Gum

Cologne,

myrrh,

1 .

.

.

Macerate for fourteen days, and i

.

'

.

.1

quart. oz.

filter.

Camphorated Eau de Cologne.

Eau de

Cologne,

Camphor,

.

.

.

1

quart.

5 oz.

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245

IIAIR WASHES.

SECTION XVI. HAIR WASHES.

'

Rosemary Water. Rosemary

free from stalk,

.

Water, -

Draw

off by distillation ten gallons fumery manufacture.

.

10

.

12 gallons.

lbs.

for use in per-

Rosemary Hair Wash. Rosemary water, Rectified spirit,

Pearlash,

.

.

,

... ...

.

.

.

1

.

.

.

.

.

gallon.

£ pint. 1 oz.

Tinted with brown coloring. Athenian Water. Rose-water,

1 gallon,

.

Alcohol,

1 pint.

Sassafras wood,

i

Pearlash,

1 oz.

Boil the

when

.

wood

cold,

,

lb.

in the rose-water in a glass vessel

add the pearlash and

;

then,

spirit.

Vegetable or.Botayic Extract. Rose-water,

of each.

2 quarts.

Rectified spirits, 21 *

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THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

246

Extrait de fleur d’orange,

“ “ ‘

jasmin,

of each,

acacia,

i pint.

rose,

••

tubereuse, _

Extract of vanilla,

This

is

i pint

a very beautifully-scented hair wash.

cotnmensurate with

retails at a price

1

It

its cost.

'

Astringent Extract of Roses a«d Rosemary.

Rosemary

water,

Esprit de rose,

2 quarts.

.

Extract of vanilla,

Magnesia

.

.

Rectified spirit,

to clear

*

.

it,

.

.

.

.

.

1

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

1

*

.

...

.

.

Extract of rondeletia,'

Transparent soap,

.

.

saffron,

Shave up the soap very

;

;

boil

remainder of the water, then the

light

it is

pearance when shaken.

Egg

1

i pint.

.

i oz.

.

i drachm.

gallon,

it

spirit, finally

it is fit

the

After

for bottling.

by reflected and singular wavy ap-

transparent, but

light the liquid has a pearly

called

1 pint.

.

used by way of perfume.

is

standing for two or three days,

By transmitted

.

.

and the saffron when dissolved, add the

fine

in a quart of the rose-water

rondeletia, which

quart.

Saponaceous Wash.

Rectified spirit,

Hay

11 pint.

. .

Filter through paper.

Rose-water,

$ pint.

.

.

.

A

similar

preparation

is

Julep.

Digitized by

Coogle


;

247

BANDOLINES.

Bandolines.

Various preparations are used to

assist in dressing

Some persons use pomatum containing wax, called thence Baton Fixeteur.

the hair in any particular form. for that purpose a hard

made up, into rolls, The little “ feathers”

of hair, with which some ladies by the aid of these batons made to down smooth. For their formula, see p. 224, 225. The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also by boiling are troubled, are

lie

quince-seed with water.

Perfumers, however, chiefly

make bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exude3 from a shrub of that name which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey. Rose Bandoline.

Gum

tragacanth,

Rose-water,

.

.

.

.

.

.

> .

.

.

.

Otto of roses,

.

6 oz.

.1

gallon.

4 oz.

gum in the water for ai day or so. As it and forms a thick gelatinous mass, it must

Steep the swells

from time to time be well agitated. After about fortyeight hours’ maceration

it

through a coarse clean linen

is

then to be squeezed

cloth,

and again

left to

stand for a few days, and passed through a linen cloth

*

a second time, to insure uniformity of consistency

when this is

the case, the otto of rose

incorporated.

the otto

;

is

The cheap bandoline

for colored bandoline,

it is

to be thoroughly is

to

made without be tinted with

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THE ART OP PERFUMERY.

248

ammoniacal solution of carmine, See

p.

i.

e.

Bloom of Roses.

236.

Almond Bandoline Is

made

precisely ns the above, scenting with a

quarter of an ounce of otto of almonds in place of the roses.

.

.

“ Nor the Sweet smell OF different flowers in odor and in hue Can make me any longer story tell.” ' •

'

.

Shakspeare.

k

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APPENDIX 1

MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE. Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by directly saponifying oil with th6 oxide of lead, or, on the other, from the “ waste liquor� of soap manufacTo

turers.

methods

is

obtain glycerine

by means of the

first

of these

the reverse of simple, and at the same time

somewhat expensive; and'by means of the second process, the difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the

waste liquor renders fectly pure result.

meet

it

next to impossible to procure a per-

To meet both these demand

the steadily increasing

difficulties,

and

for glycerine,

to

Dr.

Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, which,

he

asserts,

he has found, by experience, to combine the

desirable advantages of

and expense.

economy

as regards time, trouble,

Oner hundred pounds of

tallow, lard, or

oil,

stearin are to be placed in a clean iron-bound barrel,

and

melted by the direct application of a current of steam.

Whilst still

fluid

and warm, add

previously slaked, and

made

and a half gallons of water

;

to

it fifteen

pounds of lime,

into a milky mixture with two

then cover the vessel, and con-

tinue the steaming for several hours, or until tion shall be completed.

This

tlje

saponifica-

may be known when

a

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—

250

APPENDIX.

sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright

and

surface on being scraped with the finger-nail,

same time, breaks with a crackling the fat or to

oil is

decomposed,

its

noise.

By

at the

this process

acids uniting with the lime

form insoluble lime-soap, while the eliminated glycerine

remains in solution in the water along with After

the lime. to cool

and

The strained of lime,

steam.

it

water.

and

excess of

and requires

is

and excess

be carefully concentrated by heated

to

Durii% evaporation, a portion of the lime

The

its

residue

is

allowed

then to be strained.

it is

liquid. contains only the glycerine

on account of

sited,

tJie

has been sufficiently boiled, it

to settle,

lessor solubility in hot

is

depo-

than in cold

removed by treating the evaporated

liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, boiling

by heated

may

steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that

have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting qr straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the pre-

and evaporating

cipitated carbonate of lime,

still

further,

as before, if necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water.

As

nothing fixed or injurious

employed iu

is

glycerine, prepared in this manner,

this process,

may be depended upon

for its almost absolute purity.

M.

Jahn’s process

is

as follows

Take of finely-powdered oil

nine pounds.

litharge five pounds,

with the addition

warm

consistence of plaster.

water, until the

Jahn

When

least

the

cold,

it

at the

he pours

same

off

and repeats the boiling three times

with a fresh portion of water.

result are mixed,

fire,

compound has

water, keeping

of.

time constantly stirred. fluid,

olive

occasionally of a

boils this plaster for half an

hour with an equal weight supernatant

and

Boil tliem together over a gentle

constantly stirring,

small quantity of

:

and evaporated

The sweet

to six

fluids

the at

which

pounds, and sulphu-

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TEST FOR ALCOHOL. retted

251

hydrogen conducted through them as long as

phuret of lead

is

precipitated.

the sulphuret of lead sistence

matter/

is

The

liquid

To remove the brown coloring by evaporation. must bo treated with purified animal charcoal.

it

However,

this

agent does not prevent the glycerine becom-

ing slightly colored upon further evaporation. alfeo still

sul-

from

filtered

to be reduced to a thin syrupy con-

It possesses

a slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which

be removed by diluting

it

may

with water, and by digestion

with animal charcoal, and some fresh burnt-wood charcoal.

After

filtration, this liquid

must be evaporated

acquired a specific gravity of 1-21, when to

be free from smellj and of a pate yellow

preparation of glycerine, distilled water

prevent

mon

water.-

necessary,

to

.Jahn obtained, by this method, from the

above quantity of load .

has

Tor the

color: is

it

be found

being contaminated with the impurities of com-

it

glycerine

until

it will

plaster,

upwards of seven ounces of

—Archives dcr Pharmacie.

TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL

OILS.

J. J. Bernoulli recommends. for this purpose acetate of potash.

When

to

an ethereal

hol, dry acetate of potash

is

oil,

contaminated with alco-

added, this

salt

dissolves in

the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the volatile oil separates.

mains dry

If the

oil

be free from alcohol, this

who speaks

highly of this

the following method of applying

dry

salt re-

therein.

Wittstein,

test-tube, about half

it

test,

has suggested

as the best

:

an inch in diameter, and

— In

a

five or

six inches long, put no more than eight grains of powdered

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APPENDIX.

252 dry acetate of potash the essential

oil to

must be well

;

then

fill

the tube two-thirds full with

The contents of the tube

be examined.

stirred with a glass rod, taking oare

allow the salt to rise above the

oil

not to

afterwards set aside few

;

a short time.

If the salt be found at the bottom of the

tube

is

dr)’,

it

evident

that the

oil

contains no spirit.

Oftentimes, instead of the dry

salt,

a clear syrupy fluid, which*

a solution of the salt in the

spirit,

with which the

tains only a little

oil

spirit,

is

beneath the

was mixed.

When

found

oil is

the

con-

oil

a small portion of the solid salt

Many

will

be found under the syrupy solution.

oils

frequently contain a trace pf water, which does not

essential

materially interfere with this test, because, although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby,

it still

retains its

pulverent form.

A

still

more certain

in a water-bath-

result

may be

obtained by distillation

All the essential 'oils which have a higher

boiling-point than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the receiver

with only a trace of the

where the alcohol may be recognized by the smell and Should, however, a doubt

exist,

add

acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid,

mixture in a test-tube

to the boiling-point,

racteristic odor of acetic ether will

oil,

taste.

to the distillate a

little

and heat the

when the cha-

be manifest,

if

any

al-

cohol be present.

DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS. It is

known

that the olein of the drying oils

tinguished from the olein of those in the air

by

-the first

oils

may be

dis-

which remain greasy

not being convertible into elaidic

\

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:

COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE acid,

consequently

Wiinmer

does not become

it

is

Professor

solid.

recently proposed a convenient

lias

the formation of elaidin, which

method

He

oils.

filings in

nitrous acid

is

oil to

be tested

is

If the

placed.

olives contains only a small quantity of

when thus

lized

with

The vapor of

conducted through a glass tube into water,

upon which the' oil

oils

produces nitrous acid by treating iron

a glass bottle with nitric acid.

almonds or

for

applicable for the purpose

of detecting the adulteration of almond and olive

drying

253

OILS.

treated,

of

entirely converted into crystal-

it is

poppy

elaidin, whilst the

oil

poppy

oil

swims on the top in

drops.

COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE

It is well

known

OJLS.

•

0

BY

G. E. SACHSSE.

that most ethereal oils are colorless '

however, there are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some yellow.

Up.

to the present

time the question has npt been decided, whether necessary

property of ethereal

whether their color

is

oils

have a

to

it is

color,

the or

not due to the presence of some oolor-

ing matter which can be removed.

It is

most probable

that their color arises from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils can at distillation,

be obtained

portion passes over.

colorless, whilst

oils,

by

careful

kter the eolored

Subsequent appearances lead to the

solution of tho question,

ethereal

first,

when they

and are

certain

evidence that

owe

their color to

are colored,

peculiar substances which,

by

communicated from one

to another.

oil

certain conditions,

When

may be

a mixture

22

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:

254 of

APPENDIX. of wormwood, lemons, and cloves

oils

tillation,

the

previously green-colored

passes over, at the

commencement,

is

subjected to

of

oil

dis-

wormwood

colorless, while,

towards

the end of the distillation, after the receiver has been fre-

quently charged, the oil of cloves drops of a dark green color.

oil

of cloves

oil

over in very dense

It therefore appears that the

green coloring matter of the transferred to the

distils

.

wormwood has been fur Phar-

of

Zeitschrift

macie.

ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF

CINNAMON. BY

is

"

STRECKER.

A.

Some years since, Strecker has shown that obtained when styracine is treated with

alcohol of cinuamic acid.

styrone,

potash,

Wolff has converted

which .is

the

this alcohol

by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid". The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of cinnamic acid, that

is, oil

of cinnamon.

It is only neces-

sary to moisten platinum black with styrone,

and

let it re-

some days, when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the addimain

in the air

tion of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is

afterwards procured pure.

in nitric

acid,

and then form

These

crystals' also dissolve

after a few

moments crystals The converby thfe action

of the nitrate of the hyduret of cinnamyle.

sion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle

of the platinum black

C„

II in

0,+2

0=C

lg

is

II g

shown by the following equation 0 3 -f2 HO. Compte* Rtndut.

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ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS OF COMMERCE.

255

DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE

LAVENDER

IN

BY

DR.

There are two kinds of lavender one, which

is

very dear, and

of the Lavandula vera is

prepared from

The

is

oil

known

termed

Lavandula vera

or

oil

be

in

commerce;

obtained from the flowers

; the other

is.

the flowers of the

latter is generally

of France, whether the the

OIL.

GASTELL.

J.

oil

much

Lavandula

Lavandula

spica.

In the south

of spike.

distilled

cheaper, and

from the flowers of

spica ,

it

is

named

oil

of lavender.

By

the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk

and the is oil

leaves, a small quantity of oil is obtained,

rich in camphor, and

is

there called

oil

which

Pure

of spike.

of lavender should have a specific gravity from -876 to

and be completely soluble

•880,

specific gravity

that

it

that

it

of -894.

mixed with

is

contains

oil

oil

A

in five parts of alcohol of a

greater specific gravity shows

of spike

;

and a

less solubility,

of turpentine.

DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE. BY M. LEGUAY. There are three commerce. second third

is

sorts of orange-flower waters

found in

The first is distilled from the flowers the made with distilled water and neroli and the ;

;

is

distilled

young unripe

from the

leaves, the

fruit of the orange tree.

easily distinguished

stems, and the

The

first

may be

by the addition of a few drops of

sul-

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256

APPENDIX.

phurio acid to some of the water in a tube color

when

it is

a certain time, two or three color

is

;

a fine rose

The second

almost immediately produced.

is

gives the same color

also

freshly prepared; hut after

months

at the farthest, this

no longer produced, and the aroma disappears com-

pletely.

The

third

is

the sulphuric acid;

not discolored by the addition of

has scarcely any odor, and that

it

rather an odor of the lemon plant than of orange-flowers.

Ph armaceutique d'lndre

Bulletin de la Societe

et

Loire.

A FORMULA for concentrated elderflower WATER. Krcmbs recommends

the following process for

making a

concentrated elder-flower water, from which he states the

ordinary water can be extemporaneously prepared, of excellent quality,

and of uniform strength

:

—2

of the

lbs.

be distilled with water until - that which

flowers are to

passes into the receiver has lost nearly

all

This

perfume.

will generally

happen when from 15 to 18 pounds have

passed over.

To

the distillate, 2 lbs. of alcohol are to be

added, and the mixture distilled until about 5 collected.

To make

This liquor contains

all

lbs.

are

the odor of the flowers.

the ordinary water, 2 ounces' of the concentrated

water arc to be added to 10 ounces of distilled water.

Buchner’s Report.

PRACTICAL REMARKS ON SPIRIT OF WINE. BY THOMAS ARNALL. The strength of proof spirit (sp.

gr.

spirit

of wine

is,

by law, regulated by

-920) as a standard

;

and accordingly'

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—

ARNALL ON SPIRITS OF WINE. as

much

called so

per

spirit of

;

it

are equal to

signifies

156 gallons of proof

while a spirit at 20 per cent, underproof, signifies

The

that 100 gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. rectified spirit of

proof,

the Pharmacopoeia

and may be reduced

to proof

the directions there given, viz., to

The

measures tion

is

56 per

eent. over-

by mix

strictly

adhering to

five

measures with

result,

however, will not be eight

of proof spirit; in

consequence of the contrac-

three of water.

.

is

a rather peculiar sense.

wine at 56 per cent, overproof,

100 gallons of

that spirit

it

The term

per cent, above or below proof.

cent, is used' in this instance in

Thus,

257

either stronger or weaker than the above,

is

it

which ensues, there

will

be a deficiency of about Jiv

This must be borne in mind in preparing

in each gallon. tinctures.

During a long of ethers,

it

series of

experiments on the preparation

appeared a desideratum to find a ready method

of ascertaining

how much

spirit

of any density would be

equal to one chemical equivalent of absolute alcohol.

By

a modification of a rule employed by the Excise, this ques-

may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows To reduce from any given strength to any required add the overproof per centage to 100, or subMultiply tract the underproof per centage from 100. :

tion

strength,

the result by the quantity of spirit, and divide the pro-

duct by the number obtained by adding the required per centage overproof, or subtracting the required per centage underproof, to or from 100, as the case result will give the

measure of the

may

be.

The

spirit at the strength

required.

Thus, suppose you wished at

54

tiply

overproof,

down

to

to proof,

reduce 10 gallons of

by the quantity, 10 gallons ,

spirit,

100=154; mul(154xlO)=154P. The

add 54

to

22 *

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258

;

APPENDIX.

required strength being proof, of course there

nothing

is

100; therefore, 1540 divided by 100=15-4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons must be made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by either to add to or take from

the addition of water.

To

ascertain

what quantity of

spirit

of any given strength

Add

ono equivalent of absolute alcohol.

will contain

the

overproof per centage of the given spirit to 100, as before

and with the number thus obtained divide 4062-184'.

The

result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four equi-

valents

(46x4).

Example is

.

—How much

54

spirit at

per. cent, overproof

equal to 1 equivalent of absolute aloohol ?

Here, r>21 3 l =26-3778 54+100=154 and i°

galls.,

154 which, divided by

Suppose the .4062 185

then

4,

or 26 galls. 3 pts.

gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 15 oz.

spirit to

be 60 overproof,

— 25"388 oc.ooo gallons, —n =

r

one-fourth of which

1

_

is ,

equal ,,,

to G gallons, 2 pints, 154

100+60

oz.

This rule

is

founded on the following data.

of water weighs 10

lbs.,

it

is

As

a gallon

obvious that the specific

gravity of any liquid multiplied by 10 will give the weight

of one gallon.

The

specific gravity of absolute alcohol is

•793811'; hence, the weight of one gallon will be 7 lbs.,

and

its

strength

is

93811

estimated at 75-25 overproof.

4 equivalents of alcohol=46x 4=184,

and 23-17936 gallonsX 7-93811 Jbs. per gallon, also

=184-0003094.

Hence

it

appears that 23-17936 gallons of absolute alcohol

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;

PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS. are equal to

By

4 equivalents.

259

adding the ovcrproof per

centage (75-25) to 100, and multiplying by the quantity

(23-17936 gallons) we get the constant number 4062-183.

The

rule

might have been calculated

show at

so as to

once the equivalent, without dividing by 4

but

;

have required several more places of decimals

it.

;

would

it

will give

the required quantity to a fraction of a fluid drachm.

PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS BY FILTRATION. BY MR. W. SCHAEFFER. Âť

%

Instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the purification of a

spirits,

In a suitable vessel, the form of which

filter.

material, a filtering

manner

Mr. Schaeffer proposes the use of

:

— On

bed

a false

is

not

constructed in the following

is

bottom,

perforated

with

covered

woollen or other fabric, a layer of about six inches of well-

washed and very clean

river sand

is

placed

;

next about

made

twelve inches of granular charcoal, preferring that

from birch

on the charcoal

;

is

placed a layer of about one

inch of wheat, boiled to such an extent as to cause swell as large as possible,

between the

fingers.

and so that

Above

it

this is laid

about ten inches of

charcoal, then about one inch of broken oyster shells,

then about two inches more of charcoal,' over which a layer of woollen or other fabric, and over partition,

the

on to which the

filter is

spirit

it

is

a perforated

to be filtered is

the compartment of the

filtering materials, a

and

placed

poured

kept covered, and in order that the spirit

flow freely into

it to

will readily crush

filter

may

below the

tube connects such lower compartment

with the upper compartment of the

filter,

so that the air

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—

260 may

APPENDIX.

On

filter.

each of the several strata above described,

desirable to place a layer of filtering paper.

it is

The as

and upper compartments

pass freely between the lower

of the

charcoal suitable for the above purpose

mode of

obtained in the ordinary

is

not such

is

preparation.

It

is

placed in a retort or oven, and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed

The

charcoal

is

and the flame become

off,

red.

then cooled in water, in which carbonate of

potash has previously been dissolved, in the proportion of

two ounces of carbonate lar state, in

The

to fifty gallons of water.

coal being deprived of the water

which condition

is

it is

then reduced

to

char-

a granu-

ready for use.

ON ESSENTIAL OIL OR OTTO OF LEMONS. BY JOHN (Read

COBB.

S.

before the Chemical Discussion Society.')

I have recently

made some experiments with

lemons, of which the following

is

a short account

Rcing constantly annoyed by the deposit and

my

oil

of

:

alteration in

essence of lemons, I have tried various methods of

remedying the inconvenience. I

first

tried redistilling

it,

but besides the

on

distilling small quantities, the flavor is

As

the

oil

all

its

precipitable matter

loss

consequent

thereby impaired.

became brighter when heated, I anticipated that would be thrown down

at a

low

temperature, and I applied a freezing mixture, keeping the oil at

zero for

some

hours.

No

such change, however, took

place.

The

plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best

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COBB ON OTTO OF LEMONS. which I had arrived

was

at,

to

shake op the

261 with a

oil

boiling water, and to leave the water in the bottle

little

a mucila-

;

ginous preparation forms on the top of the water, aud acquires a certain tenacity, so that the

oil

may be poured off Perhaps

to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit.

cold water would answer equally well, were

agitated with the consideration

oil

of

and allowed some time origin

its

strengthens this opinion

both by

distillation

found

commerce

in

;

and

lemon

for although

otto is obtained

and expression, that which is

still

and

impurities, decanting

contains a certain

which

undergoes

is

usually

prepared by removing the “flavedo�

sack, allowing the filtrate to stand, that it its

A

indeed,

constitution,

of lemons with a rasp, and afterwards expressing

of

carefully

it

to settle.

filtering.

it

in a hair

may deposit some Thus obtained

it

amount of mucilaginous matter,

spontaneous

decomposition,

and

thus

(acting, in short, as a ferment) accelerates a similar change

in the

itself.

oil

correct one,

we

If this view of

decomposition be a

its

evidently, in removing this matter

by means

of the water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain

the same result as

we should by

distillation,

without

waste or deterioration in flavor.

its

I

am, however, aware that some consider the deposit

Some

be modified resin.*

have shown that

to

curious experiments of Saussure

volatile oils absorb

oxygen immediately

they have been drawn from the plant, and are partially con•

The

deposit

to the taste, gives

is

nearly insoluble in water,

is

an acid reaction with litmus.

acid and astringent Spirit of

wine

dis-

solves out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous

substance, having a rancid smell.

pleasant-smelling resin,

mainder

is

somewhat resembling camphor.

nearly insoluble in

soluble in nitric acid,

Ether leaves a

liq.

ammonia?,

and well deserves

to

liq.

The

potassa>,

re-

more

be further examined.

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262

APPENDIX. which remains dissolved

verted into a resin,

in the re-

mainder of the essence.

He

remarked that

absorbing oxygen

this property of

gradually increases, until a

maximum

is

ender

this

of which the

maximum

it

In the

mouth

each of which

it

its

absorbed twice

its

volume of oxygen. The

of turpentine did not attain the

oil

months,

it

In

not attained until at

then lasted twenty-six days; during

it

;

volume of oxygen.

maximum was

of lemons the

oil

of lav-

oil

remained only seven days, during each

absorbed seven times

the end of a

and again

attained,

diminishes after a certain lapse of time.

maximum

for five

then remained for one month, during which

own volume of oxygen.

time

it

absorbed daily

It

is

the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen, and

its

remaining dissolved in the essence, which destroys original flavor.

The

analogy with that of transformations, and

of turpentine, so far as regards

by

l’ereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained

lation with water,

distil-

from American turpentine, has a molecu-

power of right-handed

lar

its

power of rotating a ray of polarized

its

Authorities differ as regards this latter property,

light.

.

its

of lemons presents a very great

oil

oil

French

rotation, while the

oil

of

rotation.

Oil of lemons

rotates a ray of light to the right, but in

France a distilled

turpentine

oil

had a left-handed

of lemons, sold as scouring drops for removing spots of

grease, possesses quite the opposite

has

power of

lemons combines with hydrochloric acid cial

pentine.

its

The

atom

is

to

form an

artificial

sented by the formula, oil

of turpentine by

only one half that of the

camphor of

Cm C.*,

II g

H

l6 ,

oil

oil

;

of lemons

artifi-

of tur-

oil

H Cl the artificial H Cl.

and

Oil of

oil.

camphor, just in the same manner as does

pentine, but

of

rotation,

the original peculiar flavor of the

lost all

is

of turrepre-

camphor

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263

BENZOIC ACID. According

to

M.

camphor formed by the any action on polarized

Biot, the

lemons docs not exercise whilst the

The

light,

of lemons itself rotates a ray to the right.

oil

camphor from

oil

of turpentine, on the contrary, does

exercise on the polarized ray the

possessed while in

same power

oils

as the oil

isolated state, of rotating to the left.

its

These molecular properties establish an between the

essential difference

of turpentine and lemons, and

to detect adulteration

and fraud.

may

serve

It is also a curious fact,

that from the decomposition of these artificial camphors

may be

lime, volatile oils

with the

original

oils

from which the camphors were

in neither case has the

on polarized

light.

new product any action

In conclusion, I would recommend that all

other essential

by

obtained by distillation, isomeric

formed; but

as

of

oil

oils,

this

oil,

as well

be kept in a cool, dark place,

where no very great changes of temperature

occur.

BENZOIC ACID, AND TESTS FOR ITS PURITY. BY W. BASTICK. Dr. Mohr’s process for obtaining benzoic acid, which

is

adopted by the Prussian Pharmacopoeia, unquestionably has the reputation of being the best. cess, coarsely-powdered

the

flat

gum

According

benzoin

is

to

to this pro-

be strewed on

bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of

nine inches, and a height of about two inches. surface of the pot is

fastened to

thick paper

its

is

is

On

the

spread a piece of filtering paper, which

rim by starch paste.

A

cylinder of very

attached by means of a string to the top of

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264 the

APPENDIX. Heat

irofi pot.

then applied by placing the pot on a

is

plate covered with sand, over the

must remain exposed

Mohr

mouth of

to a gentle fire

usually obtains about an ounce

acid from twelve ounces of

gum

a furnace.

It

from four to six hours.

and a half of benzoic

benzoin by the

first

subli-

the

As the gum is not exhausted by the first operamay be bruised when cold and again submitted to action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid

will

sublime from

mation. tion,

it

fectly pure

when

perfectly pure, as

portion of a fragrant volatile

the

gum

is

not per-

states that it is a question,

and perfumery point of view, whether

in a medicinal so valuable

This acid thus obtained,

it.

and white, and Mohr

oil,

when which

it

it is

contains a small

rises

from

with

it

shall

be pre-

in the process of sublimation.

The London Pharmacopoeia

directs that

it

pared by sublimation, and does not prescribe that

be free from this

oil,

to

which

it

it

shall

principally owes its agree-

able odor.

By is

the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid

What

not volatilized.

separated by boiling

remains in the resin

may be

with caustic lime, and precipitating

it

the acid from the resulting benzoate of lime with hydro-

Benzoic acid can be obtained also

chloric acid.

wet way, and the value, because

it

above -stated, gives devised

in

resin yields a greater product in

process than in the former; yet free

is it

by Scheele

its

is

it

from the

volatile oil

peculiar odor.

as follows

:

the this

has a less perfumery

which, as

The wet method

—Make

one ounce of

freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces

of hot water.

To the milk

of lime, four ounces of pow-

dered benzoin and thirty ounces of water are

and the mixture boiled this operation,

for half an hour,

and

to

be added,

stirred

and afterwards strained through

linen.

during

The

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;

BENZOIC ACID,

265

residue must be a second time boiled with twenty ounces

of water and strained, and a third time with ten ounces the fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to onefourth of their volume, and- sufficient hydrochloric acid

When

quite cold, the

crystals are to be separated from the fluid

by means of a

added

to

render them slightly acid.

linen strainer,

upon which they are

water, and pressed, and

to

be washed with cold

then dissolved in hot distilled

When

water, from which the crystals separate on cooling.

hydrochloric acid

is

added

powder. dilute will

concentrated solution

to a cold

of the salts of benzoic acid,

it

precipitated as a white

is

If the solution jof the salts of this acid

too

is

and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid

However, the weaker the

be separated.

the more slowly

is

it is

and

cooled, the larger will be tho crystals

In the preparation of this mcid in the wet

of this acid.

way, lime

solutionis,

to

be preferred to every other base, because

it

forms insoluble combinations with the. resinous constituents of the benzoin, and because

prevents the gum-resin from

it

conglomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an excess of this base Stoltzc has

acid can be

is

but slightly soluble.

recommended

be dissolved in

spirit, to

which

solution of carbonate of soda, alcohol.

method by which

a

removed from the benzoin

The

spirit is to

is

to

:

—The

tho

all

resin

is

to

be added a watery

decomposed previously by

be removed by

distillation,

and

the remaining watery solution, from which the resin has

been separated by

filtration,

treated with dilute sulphuric

This method gives

acid, to precipitate the benzoic acid.

the greatest quantity of acid, but fice

is

attended with a sacri-

of time and alcohol, which renders

it

in

an economical

point of view inferior to the above process of Scheele-.

23

It


266 is

APPENDIX.

so far valuable, that the total acid contents of the resin

can be determined by

*

s

it.

Dr. Gregory considers the following process for obtain-

ing benzoic acid the most productive.

Dissolve benzoin in

strong -alcohol, by the aid of heat, and add to the solution, whilst hot, hydrochloric acid, in sufficient quantity to pre-

When

cipitate the resin.

the mixture

is distilled,

the ben-

zoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether.

Distilla-

must be continued as long as any ether passes over. Watet addod towards the end of the operation will facili-

tion

tate the expulsion

of the ether from the

When

retort.

ether ceases to pass over, 4he hot water in the retort tered,

which deposits benzoic acid on

ether and tic

all

potash

the distilled liquids are the ether

until

tion is heated to boiling, chloric acid, _

tads,

now

decomposed, and the

is

fil-

solu-

and super-saturated with hydrodeposits, in crys-

'

benzoic acid.

it

exists in the resin, is the natural pro-

duction of the plant from which the resin also

the

is

benzoic

treated with caus-

which afterwards, on cooling,

Benzoic acid, as

may

The

cooling.

be produced

artificially.

derived.

is

It

Abel found that w ben r

cumole (C M II 12) was treated with nitric acid, so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several days, this hydrocarbon was converted into benzoic acid. has,

Guckelberger

by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese

and sulphuric acid.

when

acid, obtained as

Albumen,

fibrin,

treated as above.

one of the products benzoic

and gelatin yielded similar results

Wohler has detected benzoic acid

in Canadian castor, along with salicin.

the oxidation of the volatile

of potash results caustic potash.

when

oil

It

is

also

of bitter almonds.

chloride of benzoyle

is

formed by Benzoate

treated with

Benzoic acid in the animal economy is con-

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THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. verted into hippuric acid, which

be reconverted into benzoic

may by

.

267

the action of acids,

acid;

*

Benzoic acid should be completely volatile, without leaving

any ash in

or.

warm

When

being carbonized when heated.

water, to

which a

little nitric

dissolved

acid has been added f

and chloride of barium should produce no Oxalate of potash should give no turbidity to

nitrate of silver precipitates.

When

an ammoniacal solution ofthis acid. excess of caustic potash

monia, otherwise,

In

spirit,

it

benzoic acid

parts of cold and

part of

heated with an

should evolve no smell of am-

it

has been adulterated with is

easily soluble,

20 parts of boiling

sal

ammoniac.

and requires 200

witter to dissolve

it.

one

, '

.

®

'

'

\ .

.

71

ON THE COLORING MATTERS OF FLOWERS. BY FREMY AND CLOEZ, Chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of Their investigation in-

the coloriug matters of flowers.

volves difficulties which cannot be mistaken.

which

flowers

color

are

uncrystallized

;

The matters

they frequently

change by the action of the reagents employed preparation

for their

and, also, very brilliantly-colored flowers owe

;

their color to very small quantities of coloring matter.

On

the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several

opinions have been expressed. that flowers

owe

one of which thine.

is

Others

Some

observers have assumed

their color to only

two coloring matters,

termed anthocyan, and the other anthoxanwill find a relation

between the green color-

ing of leaves, the chlorophylle, and the coloring matters of flowers.

They support

their opinion generally

on the

results

'


APPENDIX.

268 of the elementary chemists

of

know

fatty

of those different bodies

analys’13

;

but

all

that cliloropbylle has not yet been prepared

puro condition.

in a

Probably,

it

retains various quantities

and albuminous bodies.

Further, thd coloring

matters of flowers are scarcely known, so that

it

impos-

is

supported by the necessarily un-

sible to establish relations

certain composition of impure bodies.

Some time

since the blue color of- flowers was ascribed to

the presence of indigo

;

but Cherrcul has shown, in & cer-

tain way, that the blue substance

dened by acids; and that which, as

is

of flowers

with, indigo

known, retains

its

strongest acids are allowed to act on It

always red-

is

quite different,

when the

it.

thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have

is

heretofore only in a superficial that

it is

blue color even

it is

manner been examined, and

important to again undertake their complete ex-

amination, as these bodies are interesting to the chemist,

beeause they are employed as reagents in the laboratory for the recognition of alkalies; and by an improved knowledge

of them the

florist

might

find the

way by which he could

give to cultivated flowers various colors.

We

have believed that before undertaking their

mentary

analysis,

for the

matters of flowers, and that these

substances

bodies, or

ele-

methods must be carefully sought

which can be followed are

to

it

for

obtainment of the coloring should be proved whether

be considered as

independent

whether they proceed from one and the same

matter, which

is

changed in various ways by the juices of

the plant.

We

now

Blue

publish the results of our

Coloring Matter

blue coloring matter of flowers

To

obtain this substance

first

of Flowers

we

investigations. (

we propose

Cyanine).

—The

to call cyanine.

treat the petals of

Centauria

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THE COLORS OF FLOWERS.

269

cyanus,

Viola odorata, or Iris pseudacorus, with boiling

alcohol,

by which the flowers are decolorized, and the liquid

acquires immediately a fine blue color.

If the coloring matter contact with alcohol,

it

allowed to remain some time in

is

perceived that the blue of the

is

liquid gradually disappears, and soon a yellow

The

tion takes its place.

brown

colora-

coloring matter has in this case

by the prolonged action of the again assume its original color when-the

suffered an actual reduction alcohol, but it will

alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air.

Nevertheless,

the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too

long with the coloring matter, because the alcoholic extract will not

then again assume

its

blue'coloration

The hol

-

.

.

residue remaining from the evaporation of treated with water,

is

resinous

of lead.

The

which separates a

The watery

substance.

the coloring matter

color,

by the action

'

of oxygen.

tfce alco-

fatty

and

which contains

solution

then precipitated by neutral acetate

is

precipitate,

which possesses a beautiful grSen

can be washed with plenty of water, add then decom-

posed with sulphuretted hydrogen; passes into the watery solution,

absolute alcohol

;

and

lastly,

the coloring matter

which

rated in a water-bath; the residue

is

is

carefully evapo-

again dissolved in

the alcoholic solution

is

mixed

with ether, which precipitates tho cyanine in the form of blue flocks.

Cyanine

is

uncrystallizable, soluble in water

insoluble in ether; acids,

red; by alkalies

it

is,

as

and acid

salts color it

and

appears to behave as an acid, at least

it

alcohol,

immediately

known, colored green.

Cyanine

forms with lime,

baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green

compounds

in-

soluble in water.

Bodies absorbing, oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphor28 *

'•

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270

APPENDIX.

ous acid, and alcohols, decolorize of oxygen

its

color

is

it;

under the influence

restored.

We

must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beaubine substance from Centauria cyanus by treatment

tiful

with absolute alcohol. Rose-red Coloring Matter extract

to

the

.

—We have

substance which

colors

employed alcohol rose-red

certain

For the procuration of this method pursued is exactly as that for

dahlias, roses, poeouias, &c.

coloring matter the

the preparation of cyanine.

By

an attentive comparison of the properties of

this

we have found

that

coloring matter with those of cyanine,

the rose-red coloring matter least results

principle.

the same as the blue, or at

is

from a modification of the same independent It appears in the rose-red modification,

the juice of the plant, with which

an acid reaction.

sesses

We

it

when

exists in contact, pos-

have always observed

this

acid reaction in the juices of plants with red of rose-red coforation, while the blue juices

of plants have always ex-

hibited an alkaline reaction.

We flowers

have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored

which are cultivated in the Paris Museum to the and have seen that they first become

influence of alkalies,

blue and then green by their action. It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those

of the Mallow , and in particular those of the Hibiscus Syriaeus, acquire by fading a blue and then a green coloration,

which change, as we have found, depends on the de-

composition of an organic nitrogenous substance, which

found very frequently in the as

it

petals.

is

This body generates

decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the

flowers the blue or green color.

By

action of

Weak

acids,

the petals can be restored to their rose-i:ed color.

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271

THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. The

alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also

be observed when the petals are very rapidly dried, for example, in ramo. by which

cannot be easily assumed that

it

a nitrogenous body has undergone decomposition

evolution of ammonia.

mentioned that in into-violet,

b

But, before

all

things,

to the

must be

it

this case the modification of color passes

and never arrives

at

green

;

and, further, that

it

always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid,

which we have detected by

which were before

rose-red,

a direct experiment.

and have become

violet

drying, evolve carb.-uie acid, and on that account

assumed that the rose-red color this

is- produced

Petals

by

it

slight

maybe

in the petals

by

by its expulsion the petals by which the flowers with neutral

carbonic acid, a'.d that

assume the blue

color,

juices are characterized.

We

believe that

we

are able to speak with certainty that

flowers with a nee-red. violet, or blue color, tion to one

owe their colora-

and the same substance, but which

in various ways

is

by the influence of the juices of

modified

plants.

Scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened acid, bat in

such eases this substance

low coloring matter which we Yellow Color iny Matter

.

will

—The

now

b

by an

mixed with a

yel-

describe.

simplest experiments

show

that no analogy exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow

and that of which we have already spoken.

The agents which generate red, violet, or green

so easily with cyanine, the rose-

coloration, cannot in

any case impart

these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers.

By

the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers,

we have

ascertained that they

substances, which differ from perties,

pendent principle.

owe

their coloration to

two

one another in their pro-

to

be derived from the same inde-

One b

completely insoluble in water,

and appear not

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— 070 4M I

AEPKNDIX.

*mt

which we have termed xanthine, a name which Runge has

As this name has we h^ve employed it to denote The other

given to a yellow matter from madder. not been accepted in science,

one of the coloring matters of yellow flowers. substance

very soluble in water, and

is

by up termed

is

xautheine.

A'an thine, or the Yellow water.

—We have prepared

Coloring Matter insoluble in this coloring matter

from

many

yellow flowers, but chiefly from Melianthus annuus.

To

obtain

alcohol,

it

which

we

treat the flowers with boiling absolute

dissolves

the coloring matter in the heat,

and by cooling almost completely allows tate.

The

not pure xanthine, as

quantity of

it

again to precipi-

yellow deposit which, is obtained in this way,

oil.

To

it

oil

is

rather

considerable

we have

recourse to a

contains a

separate this

thus, we heat the yellow precipitate 3 with a small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the .xanthine, which even contains the xanthine

moderate saponification

As

dissolved.

pose

it

the coloring matter

we do not

solution,

treat the

fatty acids resulting

tate

we

treat with

fatty acids, is

a

fine

alcohol

is

soluble in the soap

mass with water, but decom-

with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the

from the

saponification.

cold alcohol,

This precipi-

which leaves behind the

and dissolves the xanthine.

This substance

yellow color, insoluble in water, but soluble in

and ether, which are thereby colored golden yellow.

It appears to

be uncrystallizable, and possesses the general

properties of resins.

Xanthine, the

.in

combination with cyanine, modified by

various juices of plants,

communicates

proportions' orange-yellow, scarlet-red,

in

variable

and red colors to

flowers.

Xantheine, or the

Coloring; Matter soluble in water

.

Âť*

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—

THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. By

273

the preparation of the Bubstance which colors yellow

certain dahlias,

is at

it

once perceived that

The

logy to xanthine.

latter is

wafer, while the coloring

has no ana-

it

known

as

insoluble in

matter under consideration

is

readily soluble in water.

To

obtain the xanthine

we

treat the petals of yellow

flowering dahlias with alcohol, which quickly dissolves the

and

yellow coloring matter, besides the fat solution

is

is

fat

and

The water

resin are separated.

again evaporated to dryness, and- the residue treated with

The

absolute alcohol. is

The

resin.

evaporated to dryness, and the residue treated with

whereby the

water,

resulting solution diluted with water

mixed with neutral

the coloring matters.

acetate of lead,

The

which precipitates

lead precipitate

is

then decom-

posed with sulphuric acid, upon which the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water

Xantheine crystallizes it

is

is

purified

soluble in water, alcohol,

from none of these solutions.

intensely brown.

Its

power of coloration

It dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone, brilliancy.

duced by

by

alcohol.

Alkalies color is

considerable.

which

is

without

Acids again destroy the brown coloration pro-

alkalies.

Xantheine combines with most metallic

and forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble

bases,

The

facts

.

and ether, but

here related agree with

all

lakoe.

which has been pre-

viously observed regarding the coloring matters of flowers.

It

is

known

that blue flowers can

white, where their coloring matter

yellow

—and

vice versa.

become is

red,

and even

destroyed, but never

These three coloring matters can

generate the colors either alone or by gdmixture, which are seen in flowers; but whether they are the only matters which color flowers,

we

are at present unable to determine.

Jour-

nal de Pharmacie.

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274

APPENDIX.

IMPROVED PROCESS FOR BLEACHING WAX AND THE FATTY ACIDS. BY MR.

G.

F.

WILSON.

This improved process consists of two parts '

BEES’-

:

1st,

the

application of highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters

under treatment, by which means the requisite heat melting these substances the atmosphere applied in

its

is

obtained, and at the

thereby excluded

is

passage

off,

;

carries with

for

same time

the heated steam so it

the offensive smells

given off by the fatty matters, and being made to traverse

a pipe or passage

up

or along

which gaseous chlorine

is

allowed to flow, a complete disinfection of the offensive pro-

ducts

is

thereby effected.

2dly, the treating of bees’-wax

in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees’-wax, with

pounds of chlorine and oxygen, preferring

to

disengaged from chlorate of potash by treating phuric acid. rate, say, it

For

this purpose, J\Ir.

com-

employ that it

with sul-

Wilson takes

at the

of a ton of yellow bees’-wax, and melts and boils

up with

free

steam for about half an. hour.

allowed to staiid'a short time, and

another vessel

is

It is

then

then decanted into

provided with a steam-pipe to emit free

steam; about 20

of chlorate of potash

lbs.

the steam turned on

;

80

with a like weight of water,

lbs. is

is

added, and

of sulphuric acid, diluted

then gradually added.

The

matters are allowed to stand for a short time, and are then

decanted into another vessel, and again boiled up with free steam, and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid.

The bees’-wax is then decanted into a receiver, and The bces’-wax may, before undergoing

is. ready for use.

these processes, be combined and boiled up with a hard fatty acid,

and then treated as above described.

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MANUFACTURE OF SOAP.

275

CHEMICAL EXAMINATION OF NAPLES SOAP. A. Faiszt has submitted

He

analysis. fat

states that

this celebrated

made by

it is

shaving soap to

saponifying mutton

with lime, and then separating the fatty acids from the

soap thus formed, by means'of a mineral acid.

These fatty

acids are afterwards combined with ordinary Caustic potash

He

to produce the Naples'soap.

found that 100 parts of

this soap contained Part*.

Fatty acids,

.

.

.

Potash combined with the

.

fotty acids,

.

.

.

> v .

57'14

10 39 -

Sulphate of potash, chloride of potassium, with a trace of carbonate of potash,

/

Silica, &c.,

.

AVuter,

.

.

.

.

.

.

*

4-22

.

27 68

01G .

.

.

.

**99'89 Geicerleblatt aus Wurttemberg.

MANUFACTURE OF The removal

SOAP.

of the duty from soap, and the consequent

emancipation of this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the Excise, has given a fresh impetus to the

manufacture of this important

article

of daily use, and

enabled some processes to be practically carried out in

England, which, previous to the removal of the duty, could not be adopted in this part of her Majesty’s dominions. It will doubtless

appear strange to those unacquainted

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APPENDIX.

276

with the circumstances, that owing to the

mode of levying

the duty by admeasurement, and not by actual weight, the

maker of

a particular kind of soap was debarred the privi-

lege of manufacturing

Fortunately for

1

in this country.

him, the manufacture of soap being free from

was enabled

restrictions in Ireland, lie

cess in the sister

all

Excise

out his pro-

Engpayment of the Customs’ duty,

kingdom, whence

land, and admitted here on

to carry

it

was exported

which was the same as the Excise duty on

to

manufacture

its

All this roundabout method of doing business

here.

now done away

now

with, and no restriction

exists to

is

mar

the peace of the soap manufacturer.

Amongst

various

new

processes, lately introduced is that

of Mr. H. C. Jennings, which

is

practically carried out in

the following manner:

Combine 1000

of stearic

lbs.

from elaine or oleine as

or-

margaric acid, as free

possible,' or

pnlmatine, or any

vegetable or animal stearine or margarine, at the temperature of 212° Fahr., with a solution of bicarbonate of potash

Constantly

or soda, specific gravity 1500.

an intimate combination will

is

or

stir

mix

until

obtained, and that the elements

not part when tried upon glass or any other similar

substance.

When

the mass

is

cooled

down

to

about 60°

Fahr. add one pound per cent, of liquor anmioniae, specific gravity 8.80, and one

pound per

cent, of strongest solution

of caustic potash; these are to be added gradually, and fully

mixed

or stirred until perfectly combined.

18 pounds per ing

mon

it

cent, of

common

boil-

with a solution of subcarbonate of potash and com-

soda of commerce, in equal parts, as

much

the solution a specific gravity of about 1800, hot.

Dissolve 15 to

commerce, by

resin of

Mix

as will give

when

boiling

these perfectly with the above-mentioned stCario

or margaric acids, and carbonated alkali

;

then-add a strong


COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP.

277

solution of caustic potash or soda, until a perfect saponifica-

The dose

tion is produced.

of caustic alkali will

much

depend upon the purity of the stearine or margarine em-

The

ployed. salt,

separation

now

or sulphate of soda, &c., as

soap manufacturers. is to

is

be

effected is

by using common

known and

by

practised

If the soap intended to be produced

no resin must be employed, and a larger

colorless,

dose of liquor ammonias and caustic alkali must be used,

according to the dryness of the stearine matters to be operated upon.

A SIMPLE AND CERTAIN METHOD TO DETERMINE THE COMMERCIAL VALUE

-OP SOAP.

BY DR. ALEXANDER MULLER. In consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are

determined in one portion of the soap, and

the alkali by the incineration of another, I consider the

lowing method appears

to

is

quicker and more correct results

reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation. available principally for soda soaps,

common

;

but

it

fol-

not unworthy of publication, because

afford

may be

alterations for soaps

also

which are the most

employed with corresponding

which have other

A piece of soap weighing

it

by

It is

bases.

two or three grammes

is

dis-

solved in a tared beaker glass of about 160 cubic centi-

metres capacity with 80 to 100 cubic centimetres of water,

by heat, in a water-bath, and then three or four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as sary to

decompose the soap, added from a

much

as

burette.

is

neces-

When,

24

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APPENDIX.

278

after repeated agitation, the fatty acids

have separated

transparent clear stratum from the aqueous solution,

in a it

is

allowed to cool, and then the contents of the beaker glass filter, which has been previously 212° Fahr. and weighed. The contents of the

are placed in a moistened dried at

washed until their acid reaction disappears. In the meanwhile the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath, are

filter

so that,

it

partly dry if it

may

being already dry,

which

filter,

were in the funnel.

The

support the washed and

on the mouth of the glass as

is laid

fatty acids soon pass

through

the paper, and for the most part flow ultimately to the

bottom of the beaker glass; the increase of weight of which, after cooling,

and the subtraction of the weight of the

filter,

A

gives the quantity of fatty acids present in the soap.

second drying and weighing

is

not necessary, if on the cold

sides of the interior of the glass

which

no damp

occasioned by a trace of water

is

is

still

to

be observed,

present. If the

quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap siderable,

it

may be

easily

is

found by incinerating the

confilter

and determining the weight of the residue.

The

fluid

runs from the fatty acids on the

filter,

which,

with the washings, has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker

glass, is

colored with tincture of litmus, and decom-

posed with a test alkaline solutioh until the blue color

The

appears.

to neutralize

difference of the quantity of alkali required

the sulphuric acid, and the quantity of sul-

phuric acid used in the to be

for

made

example

first

instance,, allows a calculation

as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap, :

23'8G grms. of soap (partly cocoa-nut “ fatty acids with filter. 17 95

oil

soap).

-

04-44

.

filter.

13*51 grms. of hydrates of fatty

acids=56 G2 per ,

cent.

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—

COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP.

279

28*00 cub. cent, of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the

decomposition of the soap, of which 100 cub. cent, represent 2982 grms. of carbonate of soda.

17*55 cub. cent, of alkaline

fluid,

which were used for the and of which 100 cub.

saturation of the above acid, cent, saturate

10 45

an equal quantity of that acid.

cub. cent, of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali

contained in the soap, representing 0*1823 grms. of

soda=7*64 per

A

cent.

determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in

another portion of soap 9*57 per cent, of soda, because the sulphate of soda and chloride of sodium present in the soap

gave up their

The

alkali.

alkaline fluid applied

tion of lime,

by

me was

a saccharine solu-

which can be naturally replaced by a solution

of soda, and must be if the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be determined in the

lowing way

The

fol-

:

fluid again exactly neutralized

with alkali

evapo-

is

rated to dryness, and the residue gently heated to redness.

As

in the above manipulation, the fluid

was not heated to

the boiling point, the original' chloride of sodium and sul-

phate of soda are contained in the weighed residue, besides the soda of the soap and that which has been added with the sulphuric acid, forming sulphate of soda.

A

second

exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the

whole residue into sulphate of soda, and from the increase of weight, by a comparison of the equivalents of

and

Na O, S Os

According the 1

:

the quantity of the former

to the equivalents

increase of

weight

may be

which Kopp furnished

to the

Na

in

chloride of sodium

4 08. The original sulphate of soda must be,

Cl

decided.

lastly,

1850, is

as

found

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280

APPENDIX.

by the subtraction of the same In practice,

salt

sodium from the

lated chloride of it

is

formed plus the calcuheated residue.

first

seldom necessary to proceed with the

determination of the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda, except with stirred less of the truth is seen

and cocoa-nut

if,

oil

soaps; certainly

after the above determination of

the fatty acids and the effective alkali, the absent per cent-

age of water water

is

is

introduced in the calculation, than

reckoned, which

made of

determination

if

the

never completely evolved from

is

soap, even technically prepared at

302° Fahr., and another

the fatty acids or alkali en bloc the

even the alkaline contents.

fatty acids, or

The method here given partakes of

the usual imperfec-

tions, that the fatty acids as well as the unsaponified

are equally estimated,

and the mixed hydrate

of the alkali as well as the combined alkali. of the carbonate can be easily recognized

soap

or carbonate

The presence

by the foaming of

the soap solution, upon the addition of the sulphuric acid.

These imperfections, however, are of It

tion

little

importance.

must be granted that the minutely correct determinaof the constitution of soap must be always yielded up

who are technically conversant with this department of chemistry, the estimation of free alkali and unto those

changed soap.

fat

excluded

in, at

least,

by

certain ages of the

Further, a considerable excess of one or another

ingredient soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the characteristic properties of a good pro-

duct, and a small excess can be judged sufficiently exact

from the proportion of the

alkali,

which, supposing soda

present, should not

amount

a pure cocoa-nut

soap, not less than 11-5 per cent, with

a tallow soap

;

oil

to

but with palm

more than 13 per oil

or the other limit approximates

.

arid

cent,

with

mixed soaps the one

—Journal

fiir Praktische

Chemie.

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LOWIG ON FATS.

ON THE NATURAL BY The

fats

and

which

FATS.

DR. CHARLES LOWIG.

exist in nature can be divided into the

general and the special plants

281

the former exist in

;

parts of plants

almost

all

the latter includes only some

;

vegetable substances, as laurostearine, myristicine, and pal-

The

matine.

consistence of fats of the general kind depend

upon the proportions of margarine, (butter, lard,

or

oils

and

tallow)

it is

termed

belong

olive,

and the

;

According as an

oils.

acid,

drying

latter in the fluid

To the

oil.

class

almond, hazel-nut, beech, rape

that of drying oils, linseed, nut,

ones

oils,

of fatty &o.; to

hemp, poppy, grape-seed,

&c.; which are used for varnishes.

oils,

In the vegetable kingdom the

and

olein eeon-

in the solid fats

contains oleic acid or olinic

oil

a fatty or

and

stearinc,

The former preponderate

tained in them.

in their coverings,

and in the

The

lat in

the seed

compound.

fats are chiefly in

the seeds

seldom in the perispemium (poppy),

fleshy substance surrounding the seed (olive). is

mostly enclosed in

cells

with a proteino

In the animal kingdom certain parts of the

body are quite

filled

with

fat-cells,

particularly under the

skin ( Paniculus adiposui), in the cavities of tho abdomen, in the so-called

omentum,

canals of the bones.

in the kidneys

Fat

is

and the tubulated

also enclosed in cells (fatty

globules) in milk. It

is

established, without a doubt, that a greater portion

of the fat which exists in the animal

from the vegetable kingdom,

for

it is

kingdom

originates

introduced into the

body cotemporaneously with the proteine compounds of that kingdom. A portion of the fat as well as wax is formed in 24 *

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APPENDIX.

282

number

the animal organisinus, as shown by a tions,

and

in

most cases

of observa-

unquestionable that the non-

it is

nitrogenous nutriments, as starch, serve for the formation of

by a process of deoxidation

fat

;

nevertheless, the formation

of fat in the animal body appears only to take place

when

the substances containing starch enter the body simultaneously with

fat.

If the fat existing in the animal body cellular tissue, its separation

may be

the

flit

collects itself

is

contained in

simply effected by plac-

The

ing the incised tissue in hot water.

cells burst

and

If vege-

on the surface of the water.

table substances contain fat in large quantity, as, for example,

seeds,

it

may be

The

obtained by expression.

dried seeds

arc bruised and expressed between cither cold or hot metallic plates.

Olives are laid in heaps before expression

when

;

they begin to ferment, they can be completely expressed. If animal and vegetable substances contain only a it

must be extracted by

tasteless

;

when they

little fat,

ether.

In the pure condition the

mostly odorless and

fats are

possess an odor,

arises mostly

it

from

the presence of small quantities of volatile fatty acids, as butyric acid, capric acid, &c.

;

which becomes

free

through

the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl combinations.

This ensues by the presence of water and

air

through a kind

appears, by the presence of a

of fermentation, and as

it

nitrogenous substance.

The

fats aro

and, with the exception of castor

oil,

insoluble in water, are taken

alcohol in very small quantities, however, tion as they contain oleine.

more

up by cold in

propor-

In boiling alcohol they are

dissolved, but are, for the most part, again separated on cooling, particularly those rich in stearine.

All fats are

taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest quantity.

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LOWIG ON FATS. Their

When

specific gravities fluctuate

between

and

‘93.

heated, fats assume a dark color, and boil between

482° and 572° Fabr., but the while

rises,

283 -91

an

From oxide of fatty acid,

boiling-point continuously

decomposition

uninterrupted

proceeds.

glycyl ensues acrolino; oleic acid affords a

and among the decomposition products of

fats

containing stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid, and, at the

When

same time, some hydro- carbons are formed.

exposed quickly to a high temperature,

pletely decomposed.

air,

fats are

com-

In closed vessels the pure

(Oil gas.)

undergo no change, but, placed in thin layers

fats

in the

the fats containing oleine andoline rapidly absorb oxygen

under the strong evolution of heat, which

will inflame

The purer the

porous bodies, as cotton .wool.

more quickly their oxidation

results.

When

fats are the

the fats con-

tain slimy materials, these latter can be destroyed with a little

oxide of lead and water.

cation of varnishes.)

The

(Preparation for the appliaction of nitric acid, nitrous

acid, chlorine, sulphuric acid, &e.,

on

that of these bodies on the fatty acids. solve sulphur in the heat

on cooling.

When

namely, with linseed thick dark mass

By

is

which

sulphur oil,

it

is

is

fats

the same as

is

The

fatty oils dis-

again partly precipitated

heated with

dissolves

fatty

oils,

by degrees, and a

formed, the so-called balsam of sulphur.

raising the heat, a violent reaction ensues

under the

evolution of sulphuretted hydrogen, and, at the same time,

an

oil

resembling

to boil at ally.

oil

of garlic volatilizes.

160° Fahr., but

its

This

oil

begins

boiling-point rises continu-

1

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APPENDIX.

284

PERFUMES AS PREVENTIVES OF MOULDINESS. An

interesting paper on this subject has been published

by Dr. Macculloch. that mouldiness

is

We

presume our readers are aware by the growth of minute

occasioned

Ink, paste, leather, and seeds, are the sub-

vegetables.

stances that most frequently suffer from cloves in preserving ink oils

answer equally

is

known

well

Leather

well.

perfumed with the

is

mouldy; indeed

A few

bodies. to

it

prevents

tar of birch,

is

drops of any essential

recommended.

of

from

leather,

never becomes

from occurring in other

it

keep books entirely free from

turpentine

effect

free

Thus Russian

mould by the same substances. which

The

it.

any of the essential

;

may be kept

it.

oil

are sufficient also

For harness,

oil

of

Bookbinders, in general, em-

ploy alum for preserving their paste; but mould frequently

forms on

Shoemakers’ resin

it.

the same purpose

The

tine. oils,

best

but

;

it is less

is

sometimes

also

used for

effectual than oil of turpen-

preventives, however, are

the essential

even in small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise,

or cassia, by which paste

time

;

The

paste

indeed,

it

may be kept

has, in this way,

almost any length of

been preserved for years.

recommended by Dr. Macculloch is made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little corrosive sublimate ; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the sublimate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by

insects.

of any of the essential

oils

After

it is

are added.

made, a few drops Paste made in this

way dries when exposed to the air, and may be used merely by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, it

a

ought

to

be put into covered pots.

Seeds

may

also

be

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BASTICK ON FUSEL OIL. preserved by the essential oils; and this

is

285 of great conse-

quence, when they are to be sent to a distance.

much

moisture must be excluded as

Of course

as possible, as the oils

or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould.

FUSEL

OIL.

BY W. BASTICK. This organic compound was

first

discovered by Scheele,

as one of the distillation products of the wort obtained from

the fermentation of potatoes.

examined by

Pelletier,

now termed

generally

Dumas, Cahours, and

is

others.

It is

the hydrate of the oxide of amyl,

from amyl being supposed cyanogen

It has been subsequently

to

be

its

base or radical, as

regarded to be the radical of another series of

compounds. It passes over towards the termination of the distillation

process in a white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery

and alcoholic solution of the

fusel

sisting of about one-half of its

may be

purified,

oil.

The crude

oil,

con-

weight of alcohol and water,

being shaken with water and

redistilled,

with the previous addition of chloride of calcium.

When

the temperature of the contents of retort reaches 296° Fahr.,

pure fusel Fusel

oil distils

oil is

over.

a colorless oily fluid,

not an unagreeable odor, but at

which possesses

last is

at first

very disgusting, pro-

ducing oppression at the chest and exciting cough.

It has

a sharp hot taste, and burns tfith a white blue flame. It 4° Fahr; it boils at 296° Fahr., aud at temperature of

becomes

solid,

and forms

crystals.

Its specific gravity at

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286 59° it

APPENDIX. 0-8124, and

Falir. is

its

formula C,„II la O a

On paper

.

produces a greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and

when exposed

of the air

to the action

reaction.

Fusel

imparts

odor; and soluble in

its

oil is slightly

and fixed

ether, volatile

oils,

it

acquires an acid

soluble in water, to all

and

which

it

proportions in alcohol,

acetic acid.

phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine withojit

It dissolves

any noticeable

change, and also mixes with caustic soda and potash.

It

rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid, with the disengagement

When mixed

of heat.

with concentrated sulphuric acid,

the mixture becomes of a violet-red color, aniT bisulphatc of

amyloxide

By

it.

Nitric acid and chlorine decompose

formed.

is

distillation

its

with anhydrous phosphoric acid, a

By

combination of hydrogen and carbon results.

fluid, oily

oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, yields valerianic acid,

fusel oil

and

which

is

used in medicine,

employed as a flavoring ingredient in con-

apple-oil,

fectionery.

ESSENCE OF FINE-APPLE. BY W. BASTICK. The above

essence

is,

as already known, butyric ether more

or less diluted with alcohol

mended

;

to obtain

which pure, on the

and economically, the following process

large scale

is

recom-

:

Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid, in

20

lbs.

of boiling water.

several days

with 3

levigated

;

Let the solution stand

for

then add 8 ounces of putrid cheese broken up

skimmed and curdled sour milk and 3 lbs. of chalk. The mixture should be kept and stirred

lbs.

of

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287

PINE-APPLE FLAVOR. a

daily in

warm

temperature of about 92°

place, at the

Fahr., as long as gas

is

evolved, which

is

generally the case

for five or six weeks.

The

liquid thus obtained,

is

mixed with an equal volume

of cold water, and 8 lbs. of crystallized carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in water, added. It

the precipitated carbonate of lime evaporated down to 10

lbs.,

when 5$

then

is

the

;

lbs.

from

filtered

filtrate

is

be

to

of sulphuric acid,

previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are to be carefully added.

The

butyric acid, which separates on the

surface of the liquid as a dark-colored

and the

rest of the liquid distilled

oil, is

to

be removed,

the distillate

;

is

now

neutralized with carbonate of soda, and the butyric acid

separated as before, with sulphuric acid.

The whole of

the crude acid

is

to

be

with the

rectified

addition of an ounce of sulphuric acid to every pouud.

The

distillate is

then saturated with fused chloride of

cal-

The product will be about 28 ounces To prepare the butyric acid or essence Mix, by from this acid proceed as follows

cium, and redistilled.

of pure butyric acid. of pine-apple,

:

weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol,

and two parts of sulphuric acid

in a retort,

and submit the

whole, with a sufficient heat, to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes over ceases to emit a fruity odor.

By

treating the distillate with chloride of calcium, and

its redistillatiori,

The

the pure ether

specific gravity, 0-904,

0+C

8

may be

boiling-point of butyric ether

II

7

0

s

and

its

formula,

by

obtained.

is

238° Fahr.

Cu

II ia

04

,

or

Its

C4 Hs

.

Bensch’s process, above described, for the production of butyric acid, affords a remarkable exemplification of the

extraordinary transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or

by

catalytic action.

When

cane

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APPEND fX.

288 sugar

is

treated with tartaric acid, especially under the in-

fluence of heat,

it

This

converted into grape sugar.

is

grape sugar, in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous substances, such

cheese,

as

is

transformed

in the

first

instance into lactic acid, which combines with the lime of

the chalk.

The

acid of the lactate of lime, thus produced,

by the further influence of the ferment changed into Hence, butyrate of lime is the final result

is

butyric acid.

of the catalytic action in the process we*have here recom-

mended.

/

PREPARATION OF CRUDE PELARGONATE OF ETHYL-OXIDE (ESSENCE OF QUINCE.) BY DR. It has

R.

WAGNER.

been believed, until the most reoent period, that

the peel of quinces contains oenanthylate of ethyl-oxide.

New

researches, however, have led to the supposition that

the odorous principle of quinces

of pelargonic acid. nitric acid

on

oil

In

my

is

derived from the ether

last research

on the action of

of rue, I found that besides the fatty acids,

which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic acid formed.

is

This process may be advantageously employed for

the preparation of crude pelargonate of ethyl-oxide, which,

on account of

its

extremely agreeable odor,

as a fruit essence equally with those prepared

Hofmann, and Fehling.

may be

which can be named the essence of quince, treated with double

its

applied

by Doberciner,

For the preparation of the oil

liquid,

of rue

is

quantity of very diluted nitric acid,

and the mixture heated until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to be observed in the liquid the upper :

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ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. one

is

289

brownish, and the lower one consists of the products

of the oxidation of

The lower

layer

oil

of rue and the excess of nitric acid.

freed from the greater part of

is

flocks frequently

found in the acid liquid, which are pro-

bably fatty acids, are separated by is

mixed with

which a

spirit,

The

filtrate

may

be purified by dis-

spirituous solution of pelargonic ether

be profitably prepared from

Gottlieb’s

The

in a gentle heat, by which has the agreeable odor of

quince in the highest degree, and

also

filtration.

and long digested

fluid is formed,

tillation.

its nitric

The white

acid by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath.

method

oleic

may

acid, according to

—Journal fUr Praktische Chemie.

.

PREPARATION OF RUM-ETIIER. Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric

acid,

each twelve pounds; of alcohol, twenty-six pounds; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds. pints.

merce

The

Mix, and

ether, as above prepared,

in Austria, being the

peculiar flavor

.

body

to

is

an

distil

article

twelve

of com-

which rum owes

its

—Austrian Journal of Pharmacy.

ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. BY FEHLINO. Pine-apple Oil

is

a solution of one part of butyric ether,

in eight or ten parts of alcohol. this ether,

For the preparation of

pure butyric acid must be

first

obtained by the

fermentation of sugar, according to the method of Rensch. 25

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APPENDIX.

290 One pound alcohol,

of this acid

is

;

the mixture

is

mixed with half

to half

an ounce of

heated for some minutes,

is

whereby the butyric ether separates

The whole

pound of strong

dissolved in one

and mixed with from a quarter

sulphuric acid

as a light stratum.

volume of water, and the

its

upper stratum then removed ; the heavy

fluid is

distilled,

by which more butyric ether is obtained. The distillate and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water, the lighter portion of the liquid removed, which at last, by being shaken with water and a

little

soda, is freed

from

adhering acid.

For the preparation of the essence of pine-apple, one

pound of hol. to

citric or tartaric acid

Pear-oil

.

—This

is

if

a

little

has been added.

an alcoholic solution of acetate of

one pound of glacial acetic acid fusel-oil

alco-

this solution is sufficient to give

amyloxide, and acetate of ethyloxide.

of

10 pounds of

this ether is dissolved in 8 or

20 or 25 drops of

one pound of sugar a strong taste of pine-apple,

is

For

added

to

its

preparation,

an equal weight

(which has been prepared by being washed with

soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature between

254° and 284° Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of The mixture is digested for some hours at

sulphuric acid.

a temperature of 254°, by which means acetate of amyl-

oxide separates, particularly on the addition of some water.

The crude by the

acetate of amyloxide obtained by separation,

distillation

and

of the liquid to which the water has

been added, is finally purified by being washed with soda and water. Fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of alcohol ; this is the essence of pear, which, when employed to flavor sugar or syrup, to

^

which a

little citric

or tartaric

acid has been added, affords the flavor of bergamot pears,

and

a fruity, refreshing taste.

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OIL OF GAULTHKRIA PROCUMBENS. Apple-oil

It is obtained

oxide.

291

an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyl-

is

impure, as a by product, when for with

the preparation of valerianic acid, fusel-oil

is distilled

bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid.

It is better pre-

pared in the following manner

:

—For

valerianic acid, 1 part of fusel-oil is

the preparation of

mixed gradually with 3

A

parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 parts of water added. solution of

of water,

is

2}

parts of bichromate of potash, with 4 } parts

heated in a tubulated

the former mixture tion

is

is

not too rapid.

retort,

and into

this fluid

gradually poured, so that the ebulli-

The

distillate is saturated

bonate of soda, and wanned,

when a

solution of

with car-

3 parts of

crystallized carbonate of soda, 2 parts of strong sulphuric acid, diluted

with an equal quantity of water, are added.

The valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum. One part, by weight, of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal weight of sulphuric acid. The cold solution is

added

ture

is

to

1J parts of the above valerianic acid; the mixfor some minutes (not too long or too much)

warmed

and then mixed with a little water, by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates, which is washed with water and carbonate of soda. For in a water-bath,

use as an essence of apples, one part of this valerianate of

amyloxide

is

dissolved in 6 or 8 parts of alcohol.

VOLATILE OIL OF GAULTIIERIA PROCUMBENS. BY W. BASTICK. 4

The chemical

history of this oil

tance and interest, affording, as

it

is

one of great impor-

does, one of the exam-

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292 pies

APPENDIX. where the progress of modern chemistry has succeeded

in producing artificially a

only

known

This

complex organic body, previously

as the result of vital force.

volatile oil is obtained

American shrub of the heath

from the winter-green, an

family,

by

When

distillation.

which conbut when the temperature reaches 464°

this plant is distilled, at first an oil passes over sists

H

C 10

of

Fahr., a pure

s,

oil

distils

portions

Therefore the

into the receiver.

essential oil of this plant, like

many

others, consists of

two

one a hydro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated

compound ; this latter is the chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so much chemical interest, from the fact that it has

been

oxide of methyl, and spirit,

artificially

when thus

It is termed,

is

prepared.

prepared, the spiroylate of the

obtained

when two

parts of

liquid, of

It

an agreeable aromatic odor and

taste

is ;

a colorless it

slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether

hol

;

cific

wood

one and a half parts of spiroylic acid, and one part

of sulphuric acid are distilled together.

it

boils

dissolves

and

alco-

between 411° and 435° Fahr., and has a spe-

1T73.

gravity of

This compound expels carbonic

its combinations, and forms a series of salts, which contain one atom of base and one atom of spiroylate

acid from

of the oxide of methyl. gate acid.

The

Its

by treating

it

It behaves therefore as a conju-

is C 14 H 0 +C II, O. s 5 2 may be separated from the

formula

spiroylic acid

natural

oil

with a concentrated solution of caustic potash

at a temperature of

113° Fahr., when wood

spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with sulphuric acid,

the spiroylic acid separates Spiroylic acid ligenic

indigo,

acid, is

is also

and subsides

in the fluid.

formed by the oxidation of spiroy-

and when saligenin,

salicin,

courmacin, or

heated with caustic potash.

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\

298

ODORS OF FRUIT NOT ALWAYS PERFUMES.

OX THE APPLICATION OF ORGANIC CHEMISTRY TO PERFUMERY. V BY DR. Professor

to the

W. HOFMANN,

A.

Royal

College

of Chemistry, London.

Cahours’ excellent researches concerning the essential oil

of Gaullheria

procumbcns (a North American plant of

the natural order of the Ericinac of Jussieu), which admits

of so

many

field in this oil

applications in perfumery,* have opened a

The

branch of industry.

among compound

ethers

new

introduction of this

must necessarily direct the

attention of perfumers']' towards this important branch of

compounds, the number of which labors of those

The

who apply

is

daily increasing

by the

themselves to organic chemistry.

striking similarity of the smell of these ethers to that

had not escaped the observation of chemistry ; howwas reserved to practical men to discover by which it might be possible to imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety, that makes it pn> bable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural com-

of fruit ever,

it

choice and combinations

bination identical to that produced to enable the

by

art

;

so

much

so, as

chemist to produce from fruits the said com-

binations, provided he could have at his disposal a sufficient

The manufacture

quantity to operate upon.

aromatic

oils for

the purpose of perfumery];

recent branch of industry; fallen

into

nevertheless,

the hands of several

sufficient quantity to

* Qy. Confectionery ?

a

;

| Qy- Confectioners

?

artificial

of course, a

it

has already

distillers,

supply the trade

of

is,

who produce

fact,

which has

J Confectionery.

•u*

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294

APPENDIX.

not escaped the observation of the

In visiting the

hibition.

fumers

at the Crystal Palace,

J ury

at the

London Ex-

of English and French per-

stalls

we found

a great variety of

these chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at

the same time practically illustrated by confectionery

vored by them. oils sent to

fla-

However, as most of the aimples of the

the Exhibition were but small, I was prevented,

many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. The largest samples were those of a compound labelled " pear-oil,” which, by analysis, I discovered to be an alcoin

holic solution of pure acetate of amyloxide. sufficient quantity to purify it for it

with potash, by which free

Not having

combustion, I dissolved

fusel-oil

was separated, and

determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver

salt.

0'3080 gram, of silver salt=0’1997 gram, of silver.

The per centage of silver in Theory,

acetate of silver

is,

according to

........

Experiment,

64 68 64'55

The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of preparing it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part

and two parts of acetate of potash, had a

fusel-oil,

striking smell of fruit, but

it

acquired the pleasant flavor of

the jargonelle pear only after having been diluted with six

times I

its

volume of

spirit of wine.

pon further inquiry I learned that considerable quanof this oil are manufactured by some distillers, from

tities

fifteen to

twenty pounds weekly,

who employ

it

chiefly in

—and

sold to confectioners,

flavoring pear-drops,

nothing else but barley-sugar, flavored with this I

which are oil.

found, besides the pear-oil, also an apple-oil, whioh, ac*

cording to oxide.

my

analysis, is

Every one must

nothing but valerianate of amylrecollect the insupportable smell

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!

ODORS NOT ALWAYS PERFUMES. of rotten apples which

By

valerianic acid.

295

the laboratory whilst making

fills

operating upon this raw distillate pro-

removed, and

duced with diluted potash, valerianic acid

is

an ether remains behind, which, diluted in

five or six

volume of

its

of wine,

spirits

is

possessed of

times

the most

pleasant flavor Šf apples.

The

essential oil*

the pine-apple

most abundant in the Exhibition was

which, as you well know,

oil,

but the butyrate of ethyloxide. in the

like

attained

Even

hy diluting the ether with

ether which

is

nothing else

in this combination,

former, the pleasant flavor or scent

is

employed

employed in England pine-apple ale.

to flavor

only

butyric

bad rum,

to flavor

is

an acidulated drink called

For this purpose they generally do not em-

by

ploy pure butyric acid, but a product obtained cation of butter,

is

The

alcohol.

Germany

in

and subsequent

distillation

concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol

;

saponifi-

of the soap with

which product

contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but never-

theless can be used for flavoring spirits.

The sample I made with

analyzed was purer, and appeared to have been

pure butyric ether.

Decomposed with potash and, changed

into silver salt, it

gave 0'4404 gram, of silver salt=0 2437 gram, of silver. -

The per centage of

silver in the butyrate of silver is ac-

cording to

5538

Theory,

Experiment,

Both

.

.

.

.

and French

English

.

.

55‘33

exhibitors have also sent

samples of cognac-oil and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the

common *

sorts of brandy.

The

writer

means

As

these samples were

ether

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298

APPENDIX.

There were, besides the above, several other oils

they

;

all,

however, were more or

in so small quantities, that

their exact nature,

and

it

it

less

artificial

complicated,

was impossible

and

to ascertain

was doubtful whether they had

the same origin as the former.

The quite

application of organic chemistry to perfumery is

new

;

it is

probable that the study of

or ethereal combinations already known,

the ingenuity of the chemist

all

the ethers

and of those which

daily discovering, will en-

is

large the sphere of their practical applications.

The

capryl-

ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their

aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide

is

possessed of

the most intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the manufacturers of perfumes

.

—Annalen

der Chemie.

CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE “ JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS.”* Chemistry and Perfumery. Sir,

When

such periodicals as

“ Household Words” and

the “ Family Herald” contain scientific matters, treated iu

a manner to popularize science,

must

feel gratified

pected, and it is

is

;

a

all real

little fiction,

a

lovers of philosophy

little

metaphor,

is

ex-

accepted with the good intention with which

given, in such popular prints

;

but when the “Journal of

the Society of Arts” reprints quotations from such sources,

without modifying or correcting their expressions, *

it

con-

No. 49.

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;

ODORS NOT ALWATS PERFUMES. benzol can be coal-tar

won without

297

difficulty in great quantity

from

In his essay, which contains many interesting

oil.

he speaks likewise

details about the practical use of benzol,

of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented nitro-

The Exhibition has proved

benzol in great quantity.

that

by the perfumers. Among French perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter almonds, and under the still more poetical name of “ essence de mirbane,” several his observation has not been left unnoticed

samples of essential

oils,

which are no more nor

less

than

I was not able to obtain accurate details about

nitrobenzol.

the extent of this branch of manufacture, which seems to

be of some importance. factured with success. Mansfield, which

is

In London, this

article is

The apparatus employed

worm, the upper extremity of which divides or tubes,

is

manu-

that of

very simple. It consists of a large glass in

two branches

Through one

which are provided with funnels.

of these funnels passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid the other

is

destined as a receiver of benzol, which, for this

purpose, requires not to be quite pure

where the two tubes branch together,

which

out,

;

at the angle

from

the two bodies meet

and instantly the chemical combination takes place,

cools sufficiently

The product

is

by passing through the glass worm.

afterwards washed with water, and some

diluted solution of carbonate of soda ;

it is

then ready for

use. Notwithstanding the great physical similarity

nitrobenzol and

oil

of bitter almonds, there

is

between

yet a slight

difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced

nose.* soap,

However, nitrobenzol

is

very useful in scenting

and might be employed with great advantage by con-

fectioners

and cooks, particularly on account of

its safety,

being entirely free from prussic acid. * See

Almond.”

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800

APPENDIX. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and

perfumes.

West

in the

Indies

;

but enough has been

refute the cow-house story.

This story

is

said, I hope, to

founded on the

can be obtained from the draining

fact that Benzoic acid

of stables, and that Benzoic acid has rather a pleasant odor.

Some

of the largest wholesale perfumers use five or six

pounds of

gum

benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic

The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared for commercial purposes ; as also the fruit

acid.

essences.

Those of your readers interested in what really

used in perfumery, are referred to the the

last six

is

numbers of

“ Annals of Pharmacy and Practical Chemistry,”

article

“Perfumery.”

Your obedient servant, Septimus Piesse.

Chemistry and Perfumery.* Sir,

The

to this

term “ perfumery”

perfumed

about chemistry and perfumery, in

discussion

amounts

reality

to

:

Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the

such things as Eau de Cologne, &c.j

he does not appear

soaps, groceries, &c.,

as “ perfumery.”

used for the

Now the artificial

latter substances,

in

common

and, I should say, in a perfumer’s nomenclature

be included in perfumery. being used for perfumery

work a

called, I believe,

full

and

description

its

is

The is to

to class

scents are as yet chiefly

which

language,

also,

would

authority for cows’ urine

be found in a

“La Chimie

little

French

de l’Odorat” in which

given of the collection of fresh urine

application to this purpose.

I need scarcely say,

* No. 50.

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CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY. that

301

the benzoic acid of the urine which

it is

is

the odor-

iferous principle.

Your obedient

servant,

A [When

benzoic acid

is

cesses, it is fret from the

panies to

it

which

frat/rant volatile oil which

when prepared by sublimation from oil the acid of commerce owes its

This fact completely

Perfumer.

prepared by any of the wet pro-

the above assertion.

nullifies

accom-

the resin, and peculiar odor.

Septimus

Piesse.]

Chemistry and Perfumery.* Sir,

If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery*,

published in No. 50 of your Journal, and intended

as a reply to

mine

—though

none was needed

—which

ap-

peared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature

he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, “ confine the term perfumery” to various odoriferimplies,

ous substances^ and exclude scented soaps; because he would

be aware that one-third of the returns of every manufacturis derived from perfumed soap. I do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, “ groceries,

ing perfumer

the

&c.

et ca-tera

meaning, I presume, “ confectionery,”

because perfumery has to do with one of the senses, smelling, while groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another,

taste ; and had not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and manufactures would have defined them

:

I therefore

fruits are not

repeat, that the

let

artificial

essences of

used in perfumery, as stated in No. 47, from

the quoted authorities.

him now do

so,

11

If any

man can deny

this assertion,

or forever after hold his peace,” at *

No. 52.

2G

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302

APPENDIX. upon

least

Arts”

is

sayed,

it

The “Journal of

this subject.

medium

not a

ment be made

the Society of

of mere controversy.

in error, let truth correct

it,

If a state-

which, if gain-

should be done, not under the veil of an anonymous

name

correspondent, but with a

to support the assertion.

Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the belongs the anonymous ink-spiller.

political alone

I am,

sir,

yours faithfully,

Septimus Piesse. 42 Chapel

Street,

Edgvvare Road.

[If the word flavor

who have

had been used by the various authors word

written upon this subject, in place of the

perfume, the dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented pine-apple

oil,

:

the word

&c., implies,

perfume, applied to pear-oil,

and the general tenor of the

remarks of the writers leads the reader to

infer, that these

who not

only do not, but

substances are used by perfumers,

cannot use them in their trade.

But

for flavoring nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these

ethers, or oils as the writers

used,

and quite

term them, are extensively

and Bastick.

However, the glorious

achievements of modern chemistry have not

by

this

Hoffman,

in accordance with assertions of

Playfair, Fehling,

misapplication

of

a

trade

lost

term.

anything

Septimus

Piesse.]

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803

OTTOS FROM PLANTS,

OTTOS FROM PLANTS. Quantities of Ottos, otherwise Essential oils, yielded

by various Plants. or otto.

Pounds

Orange-peel,

Dry marjoram

.

“ Fresh “ “ Peppermint, “ Dry . “

Origanum,

Thyme,

Calamus,

10 yield about u

1 OZ.

.

.

.

20

.

.

.

.

100

u

3 oz.

.

.

.

.

100

u

3 to 4 oz.

.

.

.

herb,

.... ....

.

25

.

25

.

20

u il

u

3 oz.

3 to 4 oz. 2 to 3 oz. 1 to

1} oz.

.

25

u

3 to 4 oz.

Anise-seed,

.

25

9 to 12 oz.

Caraway,

.

25

u a

Cloves,

.

1

Cinnamon,

25

a

.

3 oz.

Cassia,

25

u

.

3 oz.

Cedar-wood,

28

a

.

.

2

.

2

.

GO

u

14

u

.

1 oz.

112

a

16 oz.

Mace, Nutmegs, Fresh balm herb, . . Cake of bitter almond, Sweet

flag root,

.

....

Geranium

leaves,

Lavender

flowers,

.

.

.

.

.

.

.... Myrtle Patchouly herb, .... leaves,

Province rose blossom,

Rhodium-wood,

.

....

Santal-wood, Vitivert or kus-kus-root,

.

.

.

.

.

.

16 oz.

u

2$ oz.

4 oz.

it

a

3 oz. 3 to 4 oz. 1 c-*-

o

1

os

a

2 oz.

112

a

30 to 32 oz.

112

u

5 oz.

112

112

a

a

28 oz.

.

112

.

112 112

a

.

30

112

a

.

15 oz.

il

1$ to 2 drac 3 to 4 oz. oz.

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APPENDIX,

304

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. French Weights and Measures compared with English. Troy

Imperial

1,

.

0-22010

1,

.

Lbs. Avoird.

Kilo-

Grains. grammes.

Grammes.

Gallons.

Litrei.

.

15-434

i,

2-20486 4-40971

2,

.

0-44019

2,

.

.

.

30-868

2,

.

.

3,

.

.

0 06029

3,

.

.

.

46-302

3.

.

.

4,

.

0-88039

4,

.

.

61-736

4,

8-81943

.

M0048

5,

.

.

.

77-170

Of

11-02429

6,

.

.

1-32058

6,

.

.

.

92-604

6,

u

.

1-54068

U

.

.

108-038

7,

.

.

15-43400

8,

.

.

1-76077

8,

.

.

.

123-472

8,

.

.

17-63886

.

1-98087

9,

.

.

.

138-906

9,

.

.

19-84371

5,

9,

6-61457

13-22914

.

English Weights and Measubes compared with French.

Troy

Imp.

Lb*.

Kilo-

!

Gallons. i,

Litres. •

Grammes. Avoird.

jGrains.

4-54346

1,

.

.

0 06479

1,

.

grammes. .

0-45354

2,

.

.

2,

.

.

0-12958

2,

.

.

0-90709

3,

.

.

13 03038

3,

.

.

0 19438

3,

.

.

1-36063

4,

.

.

18-17384

4,

.

*

0-25917

4,

.

.

1-81418

5,

.

.

22-71730

5,

.

.

0-32396

5,

.

.

2-26772

6,

.

.

27-20076

6,

.

.

0-38875

6,

.

.

9-08692

j

7,

31 80422

8,

.

.

36-34768

9'

'

40-89114

j

'

2-72126

7,

.

.

0-45354

7,

.

.

3-17481

8,

.

.

0-51834

8,

.

.

3-62835

9,

.

.

0-58313

9,

.

.

4-08190

I

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