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N
«&» OF
PERFUMERY, AND METHOD OF OBTAtNlHO
THE ODORS OF PLANTS.
Digitized by
DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS. From
the raAers of the roof of the Drying
bunches
all
up with
large cupboards,
ing flue, heated from a
The wide.
and other
which are
fire
petals, the
slightly
rack, being not less than
When till
To
in
accelerate the
Drying House
warmed with a
is fitted
convolv-
below.
flower buds are placed upon trays
upon a frame boards
House are suspended
the herbs that the grower cultivates.
desiccation of rose leaves
made
twelve
of canvas stretched
feet long
charged they are placed on shelves in the
by four
feet
warm
cup-
dry.
Digitized by
Gopgle
AND METHOD OF OBTAINING
THE ODORS OF PLANTS, INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR TnE HANDKERCHIEF, SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, C08METIQUES, PERFUMED SOAP, ETO. i.
>'
<
WITH AN APPENDIX
..
*
ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT
ESSENCES, ETC. ETO.
BY
G.
W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE,
PHILADELPHIA:
LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. 1857
.
Digitized by
PRINTED BY 19
0.
SHERMAN A
Su James
SON,
Street.
Digitized by
f*
preface.
By
man
universal consent, the physical faculties of
have been divided into
senses,
five
touching, tasting, and smelling.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
seeing, hearing,
It is of
matter per-
taining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly
Of
treats.
the five senses, that of smelling
valued, and, as a consequence,
we must not conclude from
is
is
the least ;
hut
our own act, that
it i3
the least tutored
this,
of insignificant importance to our welfare and happiness.
By
neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve,
constantly led to breathe impure
air,
we
are
and thus poison
the body by neglecting* the warning given at the gate of the lungs.
Persons who use perfumes are more sensi-
tive to the presence of a vitiated
who
atmosphere than those
consider the faculty of smelling as an almost use-
less gift.
In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes
was
in constant practice,
and
it
had the high sanction
of Scriptural authority.
The patrons of perfumery have always been
consi-
Digitized by
PREFACE.
X
dercd the most civilized and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing faculties
how
how
enjoy the
to
which we possess, then must we learn not only
to distinguish the
harmony of
color
and form,
in
order to please the sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear
;
the comfort of appropriate fabrics to
cover the body, and to please the touch, but the smell-
ing faculty must be sjiowu
how
to gratify itself with the
odoriferous products of the garden and the forest.
Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes
the highest degree prophylactic ties of the citrine odors to
;
is in
the refreshing quali-
an invalid
well khown.
is
Health has often been restored when
and death
life
trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of cedrat in a sick chamber.
The commercial valde of
flowers
portance to the wealth of nations.
of no
is
mean im-
But, vast as
is
the
consumption of perfumes by the people under the rule of the British Empire,
little
has been done in England
towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw odorous substances in the manufacturing perfumers of Britain
;
demand by
consequently
nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries.
However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the attention of the Society of Arts,
favorable results will doubtless follow.
waste land
in
England, and especially
Much
and
of the
in Ireland^ could
Digitized by
PREFACE. be very profitably employed
.if
XI
cultivated with odor-
bearing plants.
The climate fits
them
of some of the British colonies especially
for the production of odors
from flowers that
require elevated temperature to bring them to perfection.
But
Mr. Charles Pi esse,*
for the lamented death of
Colonial Secretary for Western Australia, I have every
reason to believe that flower-farms would have been established in that. colony long ere the publication of this
thus personallyTrusteed in adapt-
Though
work.
ing a
new and
useful description of labor to British
am no
enterprise, I
less
sanguine of the
final result in
other hands.
Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent land some
fine
from which
it
samples of Oil of Behn. is
vated by him.
odorous fat
oil,
odors of flowers
At no
to
produced, has been successfully
The is
Oil of
Eng-
The Moringa, culti-
Behn, being a perfectly
in-
a valuable agent for extracting the
by the maceration
process.
distant period I hope to see, either at the
Crystal Palace,
Sydenham,
at
the
Royal
Botanical
Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to illustrate the
commercial use of flowers
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
eye-lectures on the methods
of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses.
â&#x20AC;˘ Brother of the Author.
PREFACE.
xii
The
horticulturists of
England, being generally unac-
quainted with the methods of economizing the scents
from the flowers they
cultivate, entirely lose-
be a very profitable source of income, copper ore was thrown over the
cliffs
x
what would
For many ages
into the sea
Cornish miners working the tin streams
by the
how much
;
wealth was thus cast away by ignorance we know not r but there
is
a perfect parallel between the old miners
and the modern gardeners.
Many
readers of the “ Gardeners’ Chronicle” and of
the “ Annals of
Pharmacy and Chemistry*’
nize in the following pages
much matter
will recog-
that has
-al-
ready passed under their eyes.
To be of
the service intended, such matter must how-
ever have a book form
;
I have therefore collected from
the above-mentioned periodicals
all
that I considered
might be useful to the reader.
To
Sir
Wm.
Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr.
W.
Dickinson,
and Mr. W. Bastick, I respectfully tender
my -thanks
for the assistance they have so freely given
whenever I
have had occasion
to seek their advice.
Digitized by
—
,i
.
Contents*
Page
Preface,
<•
.
.
•
»
.
.
.
.
.
*•
9-12
* *
*
•
SECTION
J.
INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. Perfumes in the
—
from the Earliest Periods Origin lost Depth of its Antiquity Possibly derived from
in use
Religious Observances
— —Incense
or
Frankincense
—Early Christians Use of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans— Pliny burned in Honor of the Divinities
put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols
and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious
—Use —Scriptural Au—Composition the Holy Perfume— The Prophet’s Simile—St.Ephraem's Will —Fragrant Tapers—Constantine provides grant Oil the Altars — Fraugipanni burn Trade the East in Perfume Drugs — The Art of Perfumery of England— Distinction Horadmirable Remarks on Trade Secrets —
People scent themselves Three Times a Day of Incense in the Romish Church * .
thority for the use of
Perfume
of
fra-
to
at
in
in
Solly’s
ticulturists neglect to collect the
Fragrance of the
little
British
,
—The South
Flowers they cultivate
of France the
—England noted
principal Seat of the Art
for
Laven-
'
•
2
/* Digitized by
—
—
CONTENTS.
XIV der
—Some
Plants yield more than one Perfli me
Odor of Plants owing
to a peculiar Principle
known 25-32
as Essential Oil or Otto,
S E CTI ON
II.
—
Consumption of Perfumery Methods of obtaining the Odors Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Ab:
—
sorption,
.
SECTION Steam-Still
—Macerating
Pan
spice,
Almond,
III.
—Ottos
Crystal Palace of 1851 Artificial
33-39
«
exhibited
at the
AllSimple Extracts Otto of Almonds, Anise,
Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove,
Eglantine or Sweet
l)ill,
Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag,
Geranium, Heliotrope,
Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia,
Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Nfiroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum,
'
'
'
-
Orange,
Orris,
Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory
of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields
two Odors), Rosemary,
Sage,
Santal,
Sassafras,
Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, VolkaDuty on Essential meria, Wallflower, Winter-green 40-114 Statistics, Ac., . Oils Quantity imported
Spike, Storax, Syringa, Vanilla,
—
—
SECTION
—
IV.
ANIMAL PERFUMES. *
Ambergris—Civet-—Mask,
.
.
*
.
.
114-123
A
Digitized
by
—
XV
CONTENTS,
SECTION Smelling Salts
:
Y.
—Ammonia, Preston
Salta, Inexhausti-
ble Salts, Eaa de Luce, Sal Volatile, . . 124^12G Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery. Aromatic Vinegar, Henry’s Vinegar, Vinaigre a la Rose, Four
—
Thieves’ Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vino-
•
gar, Toilet Vinegar, •
Vi naigr a de Cologne,
127—131
.
*
•
•
SECTION '
VI.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
Proposed Use of the Term “Otto" to denote the odori ferous Principle of Plants,
....
.
132-134
—The Alhambra Perfume—The Bos—Bouquet d’Amour—Bouquet deg Fleurs du Vald’Andorre— Buckingham Palace Bouquet— Delices — The Court Nosegay—Claude Chypre —The Empress Eugenie’s Nosegay—Esterhazy Ess Bouquet— Eau de Cologne. (French and Eng Flowers of Erin — Royal Hunt Bouquet —Extract of Flowers—The Guards’ Bouquet NoSegay— English Jockey Club—French
Compound Odors:
phorus Bouquet
,
-
lish Spirit.)
Italian '
Jockey Club.
Odor of English
(Difference. of the
and French Perfumes due to the and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese
Spirit of
Grape
Perfume—The —Millefleurs Lavender— Deleroix’a Lavender— Marecbale —Monaselaine— Boucjuet de Montpellier— Caprice de la Mode— May Flowers —Neptune, or Naval NosegayNations — of Wight Bouquet Bouquet of —rEouquet dn Roi— Bouquet de Reine Victoria —Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal —Suave—Spring Flowers — Tulip Nosegay —The Wood Violet—Wind135-154 sor Castle Bouquet— Yacht Club Nosegay,
Kew Garden Nosegay—-Millefleurs
all
efc
Isle
la
.
Digitized by
—
CONTENTS.
XVI
SECTION VIL
— — — Frangi panne ders —Sachet au Chypre — Sachet a Heliotrope Sachet— Lavender Sachet— Sachet a ur—^Portugal Sa Marechale^Mousselatne — chet— Patchouly Sachet—Pot Pourri— Olla Podrida —-Rose Sachet— Santal-wood Sachet— Sachet —Violet out a name) —Vervain Sachet — Sachet— Perfumed Leather —Russia Leather— Peau d’Espagne — Perfumed Letter Paper-— Perfumed 155-164 Book-markers — and Museum — The Censer— Vase the Akar SerMethod of using the Censer— Incense —Yellow — —Perfu — mer*s —Fumigation —The Perfume Lamp—Incandescent Platinum —Eau & Bruler— Eau pour Bruler— Fumigating Paper— Per164-174 fuming —Odoriferous Lighters,
The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums Abstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation The Vase at Alnwick Castle Sachet Powla
,
la
Millefle
--.
(with,
Vitivert
Printaniers,
Cassolettes,
Pastils
.
British
in
for
vice
Dr.
Pastils
Paris’s
-
Pastils
Pastils
Piessc’s
Pastils
-
Spills
.
SECTION PERFUMED
—
VIII.
.
•
_
SOAP.'
—
Perfumed Soap Ancient Origin of Soap Early Records of the Soap Trade in England Perfumers not Soap Makers Remelting Primary Soaps Curd Soap Oil Soap Castile Soap Marine Soap Yellow Soap Palm Soap Excise Duty on Soap Fig Soft Soap Naples Soft Soap The remelting Process Soap cutting Soap stamping Scented Soaps, 175-182 Almond Soap Camphor Soap Honey Soap White Windsor Soap Brown Windsor Soap Sand Soap Fuller's Earth Soap Scenting Soaps Hot Scent-
— — —
— —
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
— — —
— — — —
’
*
.
—
— —Colored Soaps —Red, Green, Blue,
ing Soaps Cold
:
Digitized by
— —
—
XVU
CONTENTS.
—Otto of Rose Soap—Tonquin Musk Soap— Orange-Flower Soap—Santal-wood Soap Spermaceti Soap—Citron Soap— Frangipanne Soap —Patchouly Soap— Potash Soaps—Saponaceous Cream qi Almonds — Soap Powders — Rypopkagon Soap—.Ambrosial Cream—Transparent Soap— Transparent hard Soap-^-Medicated Soaps Juniper Tar Soap— Iodine Soap— Sulphur Soap Bromine Soap— Creosote Soap—Mercurial Croton Oil Soap—Their Use Cutaneous DisBrown Soaps
Soft* or.
soft
Sjoap
in
eases,-.
.
.
.
,
‘
.
v
.
’
SECTION
•
:
183-194
IX.
EMtJLSHTES.
. •
•
Form Emulsions Prone
.
•
r
•
or Milks
Change
to
when mired with Water
—Amandine—Olivine— Honey and
Almond Paste—Pure Almond Paste—Almond Meal Pistachio- Nut Meal J asmine Emulsion V ole t
—
i
Emulsion,
.
.
.
.
.
,
•
195—200
SECTION X. S .
*
*
WILKS OB EMULSIONS.
-
Liebig's notice of
Almond Milk
—Milk
Milk of
of
Roses—Milk
—Milk of Elder— of Dandelion of Cucumber— Milk of Nuts—Lait Virginal — Extract of Elder
of Almonds •
--Milk
Cucumber— Essence
Pistachio
Flowers,
.
.
.
201-205
'
SECTION XL COLD CREAM. Manipulation
Cream
—Cold
—
— —
Cream of Almonds Violet Cold Imitation Violet Cold Cream Cold Cream of 2*
Digitized
by
—
CONTENTS,
XV111
various Flowcrt
Cold
— Camphor Cold Cream —Cucumber
—Pomade —Camphor Balls—Camphor
Cream— Piver’s Pomadcof Cucumber
Divine Paste
—Almond
— Glycerine
Balls
Balsam
—Gommon Lip
Lip Salve
—White
— Rosa, Salve,
*
Lip Salve
...
.
.*
.
206-213
•
*
/
* .
SECTION’ XII. •
rOMADES AND
Pomatum,
as
its
name
t
OILB.
implies, originally
Apples^—Scentless Grease
— Enfleurage
made
with
and Mace-
—Acacia, Pomade—Benzoin —Vanilla and Pomade— Pomade Grease—Circassian Cream— of Flowers — Oik —Castor Pomatum Balsam-of Neroli — Marrow Cream — Marrow Poma tum— Pomatum — Pomade Double, Heliotrope— Huilo Antique— —Pomade come—Pomade Hongroisp— Hard Poma 214-225 tums—Black and brown Cosmetique, ration process
of Cassie
Potnade-and Oil
Qil
‘•Balsam
callcd-ltear’s
Crystallized
Oil
-
Violet
Millefleurs
a la
Philo-
or Stick .
.
•
SECTION
t
-
.
XIII.
BAIR DYES AND DEPI LATORIES.
among the Women of Egypt Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by
Painting the Face universal
—
Kolihl, the
•
the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets
— Turkish Hair 'Dye—Rastikopetra Dye —Litharge Dye—Silver Dye—Hair Dyes, with Mordant— Inodorous Dye— Brown and Black Hair Dye —Liquid Lead Dye—Depilatory, Rusma, 226-233 of the
Eye
•
*
.
.
SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS. Violet
Powder—Rose Fqce Powder
—Perle
Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use
Powder
— Calcined Talc—
-
,
s Digitized
by
—
CONTENTS.
—
—
Rouge and Red Paints Bloom of Roses Carmine Toilet Rouge Carthainus Flowers Pink Saucers
—
„
.
Grepon Rouge,
—
234-238
>
SECTION XV.
‘
-
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
—
MialhiV Tooth Powder—t-Camphorated Chalk Quinine Tooth Powder Prepared Charcoal Peruvian Bark Powder Homoeopathic Chalk Cuttle-Fish Powder •—-Borax and Myrrh Farina Piesse’s Dentifrice Rose Tooth Powder Opiate Pastg Violet Mouth
—
—
Wash
—E&u
—
—
— — — —Botanic Styptic—Tincture of Borax —Myrrh with Eau de Cologne
*
Botot
Myrrh and Camphorated Eau de Cologne,
SECTI ON ,
..
—
.
.
.
239-244
X VI,
HAIR WASHES,
—
Rosemary Hair Wash Athenian Water Vegetable or Botanic Hair Wash Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary Saponaceous Wash Egg Julep 245-248 Bandolines Rose and Almond Bandoline,
—
—
—
—
.
Digitized
by
Digitized by
I
I
Contents of ^pptnbi*.
•
t %
Pnge.
Manhfactnre of Glycerine,
.
.
Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils,
•
-
Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in
Oliva Oil,
•
•
•
«
.
•
•
Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil, I’lower Waters of
Concentrated Elder Water,
Spirits of Wine, Purification of Spirits by Filtration, Cobb on Otto of Lemons, Bastick on Benzpic Acid,
255 •
•
.
On
the Natural Fats,
•
a
•
.
263
*
«
.
Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness, Bastick on Fusel Oil,
Wagner’s Essence of Quince,
277
.
•
•
• w
284 285
a
•
*
281
,
•
Bastick’s Pine Apple Flavor,
274 •275
275
#
.
Commercial Value of Soap, .
260 267
.
.
Manufacture of Soap, to Ascertain the
•
•
'
.
256 259
•
Chemical Examination of Naples Soap,
How
•
.
the Coloring matters of Flowers,
Bleaching Bees’ Wax,
256
•
•
.
.
On
254 255
Commerce,
.
Arnall on
252 253
•
•
Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon,
The Orange
249 251
0
Almond and
> .
Coloring matter of Volatile Oils, Artificial
*
l
286
283
Digitized by
xxu
CONTENTS OF APPENDIX.
Preparation of Ruin-ether, Artificial Fruit essences,
.
.
L
Volatile Oil of Gaultheria,
.
L
289
J
291
289
.
.
Application of Chemistry to Perfumery,
293
.
Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts, Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants,
293 303
.
French and English Weights and Measures compared,
.
304
Digitized
by
Illustrations.
Pape
•
Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.)
/
Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.) Pipette, to
draw
Tap Funnel from
off small Portions of Otto
..... ... .....
for separating'Ottos
Oil,
The Almond,
.
.
Vkivert,
• • •
.
.
.
.... .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Musk Pod, Musk Deer,
,
. .
.
.
•
.
•
.
•
..... ..
.
*
The Censer, Perfume Lamp, Slab Soap Gauge,
.
.
.
.
48 50 66
•
78 83
•
101
96 103 •
109
•
117 120
•
.
.
43
• •
(
.
.
Civet Cat,
T
.55
.......
Vanilla,
37
•
*
*.
The Clove, The Jasmine, . The Orange, . * The Patchouly Plant, San tal- Wood, Tonquin,
from Waters, and Spirits
.
.
3G •
.
Stvrax Beifeoin, Cassie Buds,
from Water,
.
.... ....
121
• •
166 171
•
S
18)
Digitized by
ILLUSTRATIONS.
XXIV Barring Gauge,
Squaring Gauged
Soap Scoops, Soap Press, Moulds,
â&#x20AC;¢
.
180 .
181 181
182 .
182
Soap Plane,
187
Oil Runner)
196
Digitized by
THE
ART OF PERFUMERY.
•INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
SECTION
I. *
. *
* •
“ By Nature’s swift and secret working hand The garden glows, and fills the liberal air
With
-
layistwodors.
There
let
me draw-
Ethereal soul, there driitk reviving gales, ‘
•
.
Profusely breathing from the spig} groves
‘
And
-
‘
Among
-
*
vales of fragrance.’.'— Thomson. 1
t^e numerous gratifications derived from
the cultivation of flowers, -that of rearing them for
the sake of their perfumes stands pre-eminent.
It
is
proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have
The
been in use from the earliest periods. this, like
of
its-
that of
antiquity
;
many
religious observances.
quity,
an
other .arts,
though
offering of
it
had
Among-
is lost
its rise,
origin of
in the
depth
no doubt, in
the nations of anti-
perfumes was regarded as a
token of the most profound respect and homage. cense, or Frankincense, which exudes
by
incision
In-
and
3
Digitized by
26
ART OF PERFUMERY.
TITE
dries as a
burnt
gum, from Arbor-thurifera , was formerly
in the
temples of
divinities that
all
religions, in
were there adored.
tive Christians
were put
not offer jncense to
to
the primi-
death because they would
idols. *
“Of
honor of the
Many of
•
%
tbc use of these luxuries bj the Greeks,
and afterwards
by the Romans, Pliny an<F Seneca gives much information
re-
specting perfume drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they sold.
mast lavishly used,
Oils
and powder perfumery were
even three times a day did some
for
of-
the
luxurious people anoint and scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to the baths in costly and elegant
boxes called Nakthecia.” %
In the Romish Church incesse
is
used in
many
ceremonies, and particularly at the solemn funerals
erf
the hierarchy, and other personages of ^j^alted rank.
Pliny makes a note of the troe from which frankincense
is
prbcui^,
and. certain passages in his
works
indicate that dried flowers were used in his time
way
by
of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed
with Bpices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls pot-pourri,
used for scenting apartments, and
m
some otnamcntal Vase. was not uncommon Among the Egyptian ladies to carry about the person a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the case to the present day among the Chinese, and to wear beads made of scented wood. The “ bdellium” mentioned by Moses in generally placed It
Genesis js a perfuming gum, resembling frankincense, if
not identical with
it.
Several passages in Exodus prove the use of per«a
'
*»
.
Digitized by
HISTORY.
27
fumes at a very early period among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the Lord said “ 1. And thou shalt make an altar to
unto Moses
:
bnrn incense upon ; of Shittim wood shalt thou make “ 7. And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense it.”. every morning; when he dress'eth^lhe lamps he shall
burn incense upon spices,' stacte,
“ 34. Take unto thee sweet
'
it.”
and onychaj and galbanum
spices with pure frankincense
w 35.
a like weight.”
;
these sweet
of each shall there be
:
And
thou,
shalt
make
it
a
perfume, a cohfection after the art of the apothecary,
tempered together pure and shalt beat -the
some of
testimony
where I
.will
in.
it
“ 36.
holy.’’
And
thou
very small, and put of .it before
tKe tabernacle of the congregation,
meet with thee
it
;
shall,
be unto you
“ 37. And as for the perfume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according to the composition thereof ; it shall be unto
most holy.”
thee holy for
make
like
“
Lord.”
the
38.
“
It
shall
%
0
^
•
Whosoever
unto that to smell thereto, shall even be
cut off from his people.’* •
.
A
*
was from
.
.
.
this religious
custom, of employing incense in
the ancient temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile of his,
when he
petilioped that his prayers
before the Lord like incense,
Luke
1’:
10.
It
might ascend
was while
all
the
multitude was praying without, at the houi-of incense, that there
appeared to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the right
That the nations attached a meaning not only ofpersopal reverence, but also of religious homage, side of the altar of ihcense.
to
an offering of incense,
is
the Magi, who, having fallen
and recognized
demonstrable from, the instance of
down
to adore the. new-born Jesus,
his Divinity, presented
Him
with gold, myrrh
Digitized by
—
—
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
28
and frankincense. The primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted the use of incense at the celebration of the .Liturgy.
St.
Ephrtem, a father of the Syriac Church,
directed in his will that no aromatic
stowed upon him
be given
at his funeral,
to the sanctuary.
churches
is
perpetual,
-The use of incense
and almost daily
ever celebrate their LituVgy .without necessity.
observe the
-
perfumes 'should be be-
but that the spices should rather
it,
;
in all the Oriental
nor-
do any of them
unless
compelled by
The Coptic, as well as other Ehstdrn Christians, same ceremonial as the Latin Church in incensing
their altar, the sacred vessels,
and
ecclesiastical personages.’’
Da. Rock’s Hwnirgia.
Perfumes were used
the Church service, not
in
only under the form of incense, but also mixed
in.
the
and wax for the lamps and lights commanded to The brilliancy he burned in the house of .the Lord. and fragrance which were often shed around a
oil
martyr’s sepulchre, at the celebration of his
festival,-
by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with aromatics, hdve been noticed by St. Paulinus “
With crowded^ lamps are these bright altars crowded, And waxen tapers, shedding perfume roundFrom fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray, To gladden night, and joy e’en radiant day.” -
%
_
.Da- Rock’s Hicrurgia.
Constantinb the Great provided fragrant
oils,
to
be burned at the'altacs-Qf the greater tjhurehes in
Home
and
;
St. Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of the
and beginning of the
of the fourth
us how, in his times,
wax
fifth
tapers were
century, tells
made
for
use, so as to shed fragrance as they -burned \ .
end
church
:
%
“ Lumitia cerates adolentur odora papyris.”
•
«
Digitized by
— s
29
HISTORY^
A
perfume
in
common
use, even to this
invention of one of the earliest of the
named Frangipani, apd
still.
day was the
Roman
nobles,
name; every known
bears hi?
powder, op sachet, composed of in equal proportions, to which
it is
added ground
is
a
spice, iris
or orris root, in weight equal to the- whole* with one
A
per cent, of musk or civet.
name, invented by is
also in
prepared by digesting the
use,
Frangipane powder
same
grandstm Mercutio Frangipani,
his
common
liquid of the
in rectified spirits,
out the fragrant principles.
which dissolves
This has the merit of
being the most lasting perfume made. “ The trade
for the
vessel to spread
East in perfume-drUgs caused many a
its sails
to the
plod over that tract which gave portance as markets, and
Reef Sea,- ftnd many a camel to to.
Greece and Syria
yitality to the
Southern Italy was not long ere
it
their im-
rocky city of Petra.
occupied
itself in
ministering
to the luxury of the wealthy, by manufacturing seethed unguents
and perfumes.
So numerous were the UngUentarii, or
fumers, that they are said to have
Hofmann.
Capua.”
As an
art, "in
England, perfumery has attained
or no distinction.
who
follow
as
per-
the great Street of ancient •
little
it
filled
;
This has arisen from those
a. trade, 'maintaining
secrecy about their processes.
No
a mysterious
-manufacture can
ever become great or inlpoftant to the community that
is
“On
carried on under a veil-of mystery. the subject; of trade- mystery I will only observe, that I
arn convinced that facturers others,
if
and
their craft.
it
would be
far
more
to the Interest of
manu-
they were more willing to profit by the experience of less fearful It is
and jealous of -the supposed
a 'great mistake to think that
secrets of
-a successful
3*
Digitized by
P
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
30 manufacturer
one who has carefully preserved
is
his trade, or that peculiar
cesses
unknown
in
modes of
.the secrets of
effecting simple things, pro-
other factories, and mysteries beyond the
comprehension of the vulgar, are
in
any wtiy essential
—
a manufacturer, or to.success as a trader.”
to skill as
kofesso'k Solly.
If the horticulturists of England were instructed
how
new branch
to collect the odors of flowers, a
of
manufacture would spring up to vie with our neighbors’ skill in
Of our
across the Channel.
it
that of
senses,
five
Spelling has been
treated with comparative indifference.
knowledge progresses, the various
Smelling will
and
*Taste.
Flowers yield perfumes in
but those
all climates,
growing in the warmer latitudes are most odor,
sweetest.
of tho
while
those
delightful fragrance ;
prolific
from the colder
Hooker, in his travels
valley of Skardsheidi violets,
to
become developed, and the faculty of meet with its share of tuition as well as
will
Sight, Hearing, Touch,
their
which
has thought proper in bis wisdom
the Creator
endow man
However, as
faculties with
are
in .Iceland,
of the flowers
we know
m
the
speaks in
the
that winter-green,
and primroses are found here, and the wild Mr. Louis Piessc, in
thyme, in great abundande.
company with Captain
Sturt,
exploring
regions of South Australia, writes
clothed the earth with
Shropshire as
sweet
meadow as
an
in
-a
it
The
the
wild
rains have
green as beautiful as a
May, and with
English
anemone resembles
:
'
violet
in scent.
the
flowers, too,
pure white
The Yellow Wattle,
Digitized by
.
WHERE ODORS when
31
RESIDE.
and emits a most fragrant
in flower, is splendid,
odor.”
Though many East
the
South of Europe of the art
Mexico,
Ceylon,
Indies,.
is
the only real garden of utility
Grasse and Nice are the principal
to the perfumer. sfi^ts
from their geographical
;
has at pommand -that change to bring to perfection •
On
position,
comparatively short distances,
the grower, within
trade.
come from and Peru, the
of the finest perfumes
of-
climate best fitted
required for his
the plants
the seacoast his Cassise grows without
fear of frost, one night of which
the plants for a season his violets are
j
would destroy
all
while, .nearer the
Alps,
grown
in the
found sweeter than
if
warmer
situations, where the orange .tree and mignioEngland can claim the nette bloom to perfection. superiority in the growth of lavender and pepper^
mint
;
grown
the essential
oils
extracted from these plants
at Mitcham, in Surrey, realize. eight times the
price in the market of those produced in France or
elsewhere, and are fully worth the difference for deli-
cacy of odor,
The odors
of plants reside in different
them, sometimes in the vert
;
roots,* as in the iris
parts of
and
the stem or wood, in cedar and sandal
leaves, in mint, patchouly,
in the roses
and
violets
bean and caraway
Some
;
and
;
;
viti-
the
the flower,
the seeds in the Tonquin
the bark, in oinhamon, &c.
plants yield
quite distinct
;
and thyme
more than one odor, which are The orange tree, from the leaves one called
characteristic.
for instance, gives three
—
Digitized by
32
TI1E
petit
grain
;
ART OF PERFUMERY.
from' the flowers
we procure
neroli
;
and
from the rind of the
fruit, essential oil
essence of Portugal.
.On this account, perhaps,* this
of orange^ â&#x20AC;˘
tree is the most valuable of all to the -operative per-
fumer.
The fragrance all cases, to
in
is
oil,
owing, in nearly either contained
small vessels, or sacs within them, or generated
from time som. as.
or odor of plants
a perfectly volatile
tt>
time, during their
Some few
life,
as
when
in blos-
exude, by incision, odoriferous gums,
benzoin, elibanum, myrrh, &C-; Others give,
by
the same act, what are called balssAns, which appeal to be mixtures of an odorous oil
gum.
Some
of -these balsams are procured in
country to which the plant it
in
is
,
and an inodorous tlfb
indigenous by boiling
water for a time, straining, and then boiling
again, or evaporating
sistency -of treacle.
it
down
till it
assumes
In this latter way
is.
tile
con-
balsam of
Peru procured from the Myroxylon peruiferUm, and the balsam of Tolu from the Myroxylon tol'uiferum.
Though
their odors are agreeable; they are not
much
applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by
some- they are mixed with soapj and In England- they are valued more for their medicinal properties than for their fragrance.*
Digitized by
33
CONSUMPTION.
SECTION
II.
M VVere not sumnver-s distillations left A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass,
#
*
.
Beauiy's effect with beauty were bereft,
Nor
it,
nor no remembrance what
it
was
:
lBut flowers distilled, though they with winter meet.
Lqese hut
their
show,
their
substance
lives sweet.”
still
s .
The
•»
Shakspeark. -
#
exter^ive flower farms in the neighborhood of
Nice, Grasse, Montpellier, and Cannes, in France,
(Turkey
at Adrianople
in
Asia),
at
Broussa and
Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a measure indicate the commercial impor-
tance of that branch .of chemistry, called perfumery. British- India
and Europe consume annually, at
the very lowest -estimate, 150,000. gallons of per-
fumed
spirits,
under various
titles,*
such as eau de
Cologne, essence, of lavender,- esprit de rose, &c. •
The
art
of perfumery' dcrCs
itself to the
chief
not, however, confine
production of scents for' the handker-
and bath, but extends to imparting -odor
odorous, bodies, such as soap,
which are consumed at the
oil,
starch,
to in-
and grease,
toilette of fashion.
idea of the commercial importance of this art
Some
may
be formed, tvhen we state that one of the large per-
fumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs.
of orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers,
54,000
lbs.
of rose-leaves, 32,000 lb». of jasmine
blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets, 20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, 'besides rosemary, mint,
lemon, citrqn, thyme, and other odorous plants in
Digitized by
34
ART OF PERFUMERY.
TIIE
In fa?t, khe quantity of odorifer-
large proportion.
ous substances used in this way
is
Jar beyond the con-
ception of those even used to abstract statistics.
the qhemical philosopher, the study of per-
To
fumery opens a book'as yet unread
;
for the practical
perfumer, on his laboratory shelves, exhibits rare Essential
oils, such,
of the Acacia
many
ns essential oH of the. flower
famesiana
essential oil of violets,
,
tubereuse, jasmine, and others, .the compositions of
which have yet
The
to.
'
be determined.
exquisite pleasure derive^ from smelling fra-
grant flowers would almost instinctively induce'
man
to attempt to separate the- odoriferous principle
from
them, so as to have the perfume when the season
Tims we
denies the flowers.
find the alchemists of %
old, torturing, the plants
in
tion could devise for -this
ond
"
every way their inven;
and
it
is
on their exi
periinents that the whole art of perfumery has been
reared.
may
"Without recapitulating those facts which
be found
diffused .through
authors on medical
and works of
celsus to Celnarf,
nearly
botany, chemistry,
this character,
we may
all
the old
pharmacy,
from the time of Para-
state at once the
mode of
operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the
present day for preparing the various extracts or essences, waters^
oils,
pomades, &c., used in
his call-
ing-
The pfocesses tions
;
viz.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
are divided into four distinct operaâ&#x20AC;˘
*
Digitized by
Googli
—
EXPRESSION
1.
Expression '
2. Distillation ;
;
3.
35
Maceration
'4. Absorption.
•
Expression
1.
very
—DISTILLATION.
is
only 'adopted' where the plant or essential
prolific in its volatile
odor; such, for instance, as
oil,
i.
found in -the
is
e.
is
its
pellicle
or outer peel of the orange, lemon, and citron, and
In these cases, the parts of the plant
a few others.
containing ’the odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth hag, and at others by themselves
a press, apd by mere mechanical force it is The press is an iron Vessel of immense strength, varying in size from six inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain ope hundred weight or more it has a small aperture
into
squeezed out.
;
at the bottom to allow the expressed material -to run :
for collection false bottom, is
;
and on
covered
placed,
interior
;
in the interior is placed a perforated this the substance to
an
frith
iron
plate
be squeezed fitting
the
connected with a ppwerful screw,
this is
which, being turned, forces the substance so closely together,
that the little
sential oils are
common
burst,
tincture press
ah instrument.
The
vessels
and" is
t>ils
it
containing the es-
thus
escapes.
The
indeed a model of such
which are thhs collected
are contaminated with ‘watery extracts, which exudes at the
rated
ing in
;
same time, and /rom which it has to be sepathis it does by itself in a measure, by standa quiet place, and it is then poured off and
strained.
*
*
2. Distillation.
— The
.plant,
or part of
it,
which
Digitized by
— THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
36 contains the
•
odoriferous principle,
placed in an
is
from that
iron, copper, or glass pan, varying to size
capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, and
covered with water is
;
pan a dome-shaped
to the
terminating with a pipe, which
fitted,
is
lid
twisted
corkscrew fashion, and fixed in a bucket, with the
end peeping out
like
in the still—*-for *such
Pipette to
draw
ofl
a
tiy)
is
the
The water
in a barrel.
name
of the apparatus
small portions of otto from
^ter. *
,
made
the Bteam must pass through the coiled pipe which, being surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses is
to boil
and having no other
;
.exit,
;
the vapor before
it
liquefied at the
With the and is
can aryfve at the tap.
steam, the volatile oik—*,
same
time.
e.
perfume
The
—
rises,
liquids
which thus
run over, on standing for a time, separate into two portions,
and are
finally divided with a funnel
a stopcock in the narrow part of
it.
By
having
this
pro-
Digitized by
MACERATION.
37
majority of the volatile or essential
cess, the
oils
procured.
In some few instances alcohol— i.
tified spirit
of
Top
.
wine—is
rec-
placed upon the odorous ma-
funnel for separating ottos from water
*
aiTfl
spirits
from
oil.
«
.
terials in lieu of
e.
are
water, which, on being
distilled,
comes away with the perfuming substance dissolved in
But
it.
this process is
now
nearly obsolete, as
found mqre beneficial to draw the
it 'is
spirit.
The low
or essence it
in the
tem'perature at which spirit boils,
compared with water, causes a great oil,
oil
with water, and afterwards to dissolve
first
loss of essential
the heat not being sufficient to disengage
it
from
the plant, especially where seeds, such as cloves or
caraway are employed.
It
so happens, -however,
that the finest odors, the recherche , as the Parisians
method ; then rehad to the next process. 3. Maceration Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the loast understood in Engsay, cannot be procured
course
;
this
is
.
land
by
—
as this operation yields not only the most ex-
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
38
quisite essences indirectly, but also nearly all those
pomades known here much admired for the
as “
fine
so
French
gether with operation
oils”
:
—For
what
is
.to-
The
equally perfumed.
conducted thus
is
French pomatums,”
strength of fragrance,
called
pomade, a certain quantity of purified mutton or deer suet
put into a clean metal or porcelain pan,* this
is
being melted by a steam heat
the kind of flowers
;
required for the odor wanted are carefully picked
and put into the liquid fat, ajid allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours ; the fat has a particular affinity
or attraction for the
and thus, as
were, draws
comes is
itself,
it
by
it
oil
of flowers,
out of them,- and be-
their aid, highly
perfumed
;
the fat
strained from the s^ent flowers, and fresh are- added
four or
times over,
fiv.e
till
the
pomade
is
of the re-
quired strength ; these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French makers as .Nos.
6, .12,
18,
and 24, the higher numerals indicating th<\ amount of fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation oil
or
is
Levant,
These
followed
;
but, in lieu of suet, fine olive
of ben, derived from the ben nuts of the
oil is
oils
same results arc obtained. “Huile Antique” of such and
used, and the
are ca*lled
such a flower.
When
neither of the foregoing processes gives satis-
factory results, the method of procedure adopted
by
—
4.
Absorption, or Enjleurage
flowers are so delicate
quired
Jn
the
and
previously
.
is
— The odors of some
volatile,-
that the heat; re-
named, processes would
Digitized by
;
.
39
ABSORPTION. greatly modify, cess
is,
net entirely spoil them
if
conducted
therefore,
cold,,
thus
; :
this pro-
—Square
frames, about three inches deep, with a .glass bottom,
say two feet wide and three feet long, are procured Oter the glass a layer of fat
is
;
spread, about half an
inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula into this the flower buds are stuck, eup downwards,
and ranged completely over
and there
it,
from
left
twelve t6 seventy-two hours.
Some
houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and
Sons; Pascal Brothers;
II.
Herman, .and a few
others,
have 3000 such frames at work djiring the season as they are
filled,
they are piled one over the other,
the flowers are chaflged so long as the plants continue
to-
-bloom, which
thrpe gionths.
<
now and ‘then exceeds two
or
•
For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are or oil of ben, and imbued with the finest olive oil • stretched upon a frame mado of iron on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. •
'
.
;
This operation
is
repeated several
tiipcs, after
which
the cloths are subjected to great pressure, to remove
now perfumed oil. As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come to speak the
'of the-individual flower or plant.
Digitized by
;
40
THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION Whenever to
bo
a
*
III.
is named, or an article is said â&#x20AC;&#x153;drawn,â&#x20AC;? it must be understood to
Still
distilled or
be done so by steam apparatus, mode wbieh can be adopted for like a delicate- odor
immediately under
;
as this
tbe only
is
obtaining anything
the old plan of having the
tlbe
fire
conveying an empyreu-
stilj,
matic or burnt smell to the result, has become* obsolete in
The
every well-regulated perfumatory. steam-still differs
from the One described only
in the lower part, or- pan,
which
made
is
double, so
as to allow steam from a boiler to circulate round the
pan
for the purpose of boiling the oontents, instead
of the direct in the
In macerating, the heat
fire.
same way, or by a contrivance
glue-pOt,.as
made
like
is
the
applied
common
use of nowadays.
This description
of.
apparatus
useful for experiments which
we
will
be found very
will suggest
by-and-
'
by.
The perfumes
for tbe handkerchief, as found in
the shops of Paris- and London, are either simple or
compound
;
the former are called extracts, extraits
esprits, or essences',
and the
latter bouquits
and nosecom-
gays, which are mixtures of the extracts so
pounded in quantity that no one flower or odor can bo discovered as predominating over another and ;
when made of
the delicate-scented flowers carefully
blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the
Digitized by
SIMPLE EXTRACTS. olfactory nerve,
who can
We
all
afford to -purchase them.
mode
shall first explain the
This
pimple extracts of flowers. ,
41
and are therefore much prized by
for obtaining the
iyill
be followed by
the process for preparing ambergfis, musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;are of the
utmost importance as forming a large part in the
we
shall conclude this
department of -the art with recipes
for all the fashion-
m6st approved bouquets
atad
;
able bouquets and 'nosegays, the value of which,
doubt not,
will
â&#x20AC;˘
we
be estimated aocording. to the labor
bestowed upon their analysis' In order to render the work
' .
ifiore
.
easy of consulta-
we have adopted the alphabetical arrangement preference to a more scientific classification.
tion,
'in
Among
the collection of l>ttos of the East India
Company
at the Exhibition.' of 1851,- were several
hitherto
much It
unknown
in
country, and possessing
this
interest.
is
to be regretted, that
practical
case, the
no persQn having any
knowledge of perfumery was placed on the
jury of Class
IV
or
XXIX.
Had
such been the
desires of the exhibitors would- probably
have been realized, and EurQpean perfumers benefited
by the introduction
East.
-
Some
of
new odors from the
of the ottos Sent by a native perfumer
deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as Chumeylee Beyla Begin, Moteya and majay others from the Moluccas, but without any of Benares were
,
,
,
information respecting them.
We
are not going- to' speak of, perhaps,
more than
4*
Digitized by
—
TOE AKT OF PERFUMERY.
42
a tithe of the plants that hare a
perfume—only
those will be mentioned that are used by the operative perfumer,
and such
by him
as are imitated
consequence of there being a demand for the
in
article,
which circumstances prevent him from obtaining its
genuine
notice
state'.
The
in
that comes under our
first
is
Allspice:
—Tho odoriferous principle
commonly, called pimento, the dried
fruit,
before
it is
.
is
procured- as an essential oil;
perfumery, and wheh other spice, oils
it is
water.
but
It
little
is
thus
used in
only in combination "with
So,
for scenting soap
;
Eugenia
quite ripe, of the
Myrtus pimento with
pimento, and
of allspice,
obtained by distilling
it
is,
-
however,
very agreeable, and much resembles the smell of
and deserves more attention than Mixed in the proportion hitherto received. cloves,
it
has
.of
two
ounces of»oil of allspice with one gallon of rectified spirit of
wine,
it
forms what
may
be termed extract
of allspice, which extract will be found- very useful in the manufacture of low-priced bouquets.
Almonds. “Mark If
well the flow’rin’g almonds in the
wood
;
od’rouB blooms 4tie bearing brunches loud, glebe will atrswer to the sylvun reign,
The
Grout heats
will follow^
uud large crop* of gruip.” "
This perfuipe has boen ages.
It
fruit;
for
much esteemed
may' be procured by
any of the
*
Virg:L.
for
many
distilling the leaves
of
and the kernels of stone trade purposes, it is obtained from the laurel tribe,
Digitized by
ALMOND. bitter almonds,
and
43
exists in the skin or pellicle that
covers the seed after
it is
shelled.
.
In the ordinary-
way, the almonds are put into the press for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat
nut
;
the cake which
mixed with
silt
is
from the
oil
then
left after this* process is
and water, and allowed
remain
to
Almond.
together for about twenty-four hours- prior to lation.
The reason
for moistening the cake
distil-
well
i^
understood to the practical chemist,' and although we are
not treating the subject, of
perfumery
in
not be
inappropriate
here
to
observe,
a
it-
may
that
the
-
chemical sense, but only in a practical way,
almonds does not exist ready formed prbduccd by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and essential oil of
to
any extent
in the nut, but that it is
emulsine' contained in the almonds, together, with the
water that
is
added.
laurel leaves,
afi-d
Analogous substances
hence the same .course
pursued when they are
distilled.
exist in is
to
be
Some manufac-
turers put the moistened cake into a
bag of coarse
Digitized by
TUK ART OF PERFUMERY.
44
spread
cloth, or
stream through
it
it ;
upon a
sieve,
and then force the
in either case, the essential oil of
the almond rises with the watery vapor, and
densed
the odor of almonds
is
con-
is
In this concentrated form,
in the still-worm.
far
from agreeable
;
but
when
diluted with spirit, -in the proportion of about one
and a half ounce of the alcohol,
The
is
it
oil to
a gallon of spirit or
very pleasant.
essential oil of almonds, enters into combina-
tion with soap, cold cream,
prepared by the perfumer
;
and mapy other materials for
which see their respec-
tive titles.
Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential
r
oil.
.
In experiments with this substance, fully
remembered that
it
is
and, therefore, great caution
it
must be care-
exceedingly poisonous, is.
necessary in
its
ad-
mixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise
dangerous results
may
ensue.
Artificial Otto of Almonds.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Five
or six years ago,
Mr. Mansfield, of-'Wey bridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from benzole. (Benzole
is
obtainerd
from
tar. oil.)
His apparatus,
according to the Report of the juries of the J851 Exhibition,- consists of a large glass tube in the form of a
Qoil,
which at the upper end divides into two
tubes;, each of which
is
provided with a funnel.
A
stream of nitric acid flows slowly into one of the fun-
and benzole into the other. The two substances meet at the point of unipn -of the tubes, 'and a, comnels,
bination ensues with tho evolution of- heat.
.
As
the
Digitized by
—
T
ANISE
—BALM.
45
newly formed compound flows down, through the it
becomes
mity
;
*cool,
and
js
coil
collected at the lower extre-
then requires to he washed with water, and
it
lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to
render
it
chemical
Nitro-benzole, which
for tise.”
fit
name
nevertheless be used fot perfuming soap. field writes to
the
is
for this artificial otto of almonds, has a
different odor to the true otto of almonds, but
me under
can
it
Mr. Mans-
date of January 3d, 1855
:
“ In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three King Court, began to make this perfume under my license latterly ;
them by their consent, made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris. AnisEi he odorous principle is procured by I withdrew the license from
and
then
-since
it is
not
—
distilling the seeds of the plant
Pimpinella anisurn
the product
.of
is
the
oil
of aniseed
commerce.
congeals at a temperature of about 50° Fahr., frequently adulterated with a a certain solidity to tial oils
tibn.
it,
the
oil
it
with less chance of detec-
of aniseed
is
quite soluble in spirit,
insoluble, the fraud is easily de%
fore, well
*is
is
spermaceti, to give
tected.
This perfume
it
it
whereby other cheaper essen-
can be added to
As
and the spermaceti
little
;
As
•
exceedingly strong, and
is,
there-
adapted for mixipg_with soap and for scent-
ing pomatums, but does not do nicely in compounds for handkerchief use.
Balm,
oil
of Balm, called also
oil
of Melissa,
is
ob-
tained by distilling the leaves of the Melissa officinalis
with water
;
it
comes from
t)ie still
tap with the con-
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
46
densed steam or water, from which
But
with the tap funnel.
fumery,
we except
if
Argento.
•
Under
Balsam.
is
it
little’
separated
used
combination in
its
.
very
it is
in per-
Aqua
di
.
title
th,is
there are two or three
substances used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru,
balsam of Tolu, and balsam of storax liquid amber).
The
first-named,
called
(also
procured from the
is
Myroxylon peruiferum ; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in tvater. The latter is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong •
odor, like benzoin.
Balsam of Tolu
mum. The
smell of
it
it
;
with the least
runs to a liquid, like brown treaele. particularly agreeable, and being
is
soluble in alcohol
Toluifera halsam-
common rgsin (rosin)
It resembles
warmth, however,
•
flows from the
makes a good
basis for a bouquet,
giving in this respect a permanence of odor to a
perfume which the simple solution of an possess. useful,
'For
this
purpose
all these
“ Ui.kx has found that balsam of Tolu with
oil
would
riot
balsams are very
though not so much used as they might be.
common
resin.
To
is
frequently adulterated
detect this adulteration he pours sul-
phuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when the bal-
sam
dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving sulphurous
acid, but with the escape of benzoic or
mon *
resin
is
present.
On
the
rated with
Balsam of
—
storax,
cinnamic acid,
contrary, the
much sulphurous acid common resin .” Archives
blackens, and
commonly
is
if
no com-
balsam -foams,
set free, if
it is
adulte-
der Pharmacie.
called
gum
styrax,
is
obtained in the same manner, and possessing similar
Digitized by
BAY
—BERGAMOT.
47
properties, with a slight variation of odor,
manner
cable in the same
is
appli-
as the above.
They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the trees "that produce them are indigenous.
Bay,
of sweet Bay, also termed essential
oil
laurel-berries,
oil
of
a very fragrant substance, procured
is
by distillation frpm the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much used. Bergamot. This most useful perfume is procured from the Citrus Bergamia, by expression from
—
the peel of the fruit. well
known
and good
it
to
It
has a
soft sweet odor, too
When new
need description here.
has a greenish-yellow
greenness by age, especially
corked bottles.
tint,
but loses
its
kept in imperfectly
if
then becomes cloudy from the
It
by the contact and acquires a turpentine smell. It is best preserved in well-stoppered .bottles, kept a cool cellar, and in the dark light, especially the
deposit of resinous matter, produced of. the air,
in
;
direct sunshine, quickly deteriorates its pdor.
observation
may
be applied, indeed, to
except rose, which
When bergamot it
is is
all
This
perfumes,
not so spoiled.
mixed with other
essential oils
greatly adds to their richness, and gives a sweet-
ness to spice
oils
attainable
such compounds are scented soaps.
by no
much used
Mixed with
oflier
in the
means, and
most highly
rectified spirit
in the
proportions of about four ounces of bergamot to a gallon,
and
it
forms what
is
called “extract of bergamot,”
in this state' is.used for the handkerchief.
Though
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
48
and other matters, the leading ingredient in Bayley and Blewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ess. Bouquet (see Bouquets). Benzoin, also called Benjamin. This is a very well covered with extract of orris
it is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
useful substance to perfumers.
It exudes
Styrax benzoin by wounding the
tree,
from the
and drying,
Styrajt Benzoin.
becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter place, and used to be called
Amygdaloides, because of
being inter-
its
spersed with several white spots, which resemble bro-
ken almonds.
When
as a smoke, which
is
heated, these white specks rise easily condensed
upon paper.
The material thus separated from the benzoin is called flowerB of. benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is-'termed benzoic acid* all,
It has
the odor of the resin from which
The
all,
it is
or nearly
derived.
extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms
.
a good
Digitized by
T
CARAWAY
—CASCARILLA.
permanence and body
to
The
-
a perfume
made
it-
with an
principal .consumption pastilles (see
of -benzoin
is
Poma-
-
-
Caraway.—rThis distillation
in the
Pastilles), and for the
preparation of fictitious vanilla pomade (see
tums).
gives
'
•
essential oil in spirit.
manufacture of
49
Like balsam of Tolu,
basis for a bouquet.*
odoriferous, prihciple
is
drawn by
from the Reeds of the Carum carui.
It
has. a .very pleasant smell, quite familiaf- enough with-
IV
out. description. .for
which
it is
is
well adapted to perfume, soap,
much used
if ev-er on the continent
may be
;
in
England, though rarely
when
dissolved in spirit
used in combination with
bergamot
for-,
a similar
-vpay
the manufacture
oil
it
of lavender and
©heap essences, in to qloves (see Cloves). If caraway of'
seeds, are ground, they are'well adapted for' mixing to
form sachet powder
(pee
Cascarilla.— he bark of pastilles, as
we
Eau
and
Sachets). is
used
in-
the formation
also enters intp the composition
known
a Bruler, for perfuming apartments, to which
refer.
•
The bark alone of
*
this plant is -used
by the manu-
facturing perfumer, and that only in the fabrication
of pastilles.
The
Cascarilla gratissimus is however
so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are
gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good
Hope
as
a perfume, and both the C. fragrant and C. fragilis are odoriferous.
It
behooves perfumers, therefore,
/
* See Appendix,
“-Benioic. Acid.”
T
TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.
50
who are on leaves
the look out for novelties, to obtain these
and ascertain the
result of their distillation.
Messrs. Herring and Co., some ycats ago, drew
the
of cascariHii, but
oil
it
was only offered
to the
trade as a euriosity:
Cassia.— he by
essential orl
cwt. of bark yields rather
'1
quarters of a pound of. pil; color
;
very
inferior, to
in §rnell it
fuming
:
is
it
it
it
is
procured
Cinnamomum
more than three
'has a pale yellow
mueh resembles cinnamon, although It
it.
principally used for per-
is
soap, especially
soap,”, as in odor
cassia
bark of the
distilling the outer
cassia.
.of
what
more aromatic
is
•
“military
called
or spicy than flowery-
therefore finds no place for handkerchief '
use.
.
Cassie.
—
' !
“ The short narcissus and
’*
•
*
fair iTaffoiil,
Pansies to pleuSer the sight, and eassie sweet to *
is
one of those
"•
*
swell."’
•
•
Virgil. V
•
*
This
<
Dkvden's
fine odors
winch enters into
the composition of the best handkerchief bouquets.
Flower-buds of the Acacia Pariicxiuna.
When
smelled at alone,
and
rather sickly sweet.
is
it
has an intense violet odor,
Digitized by
51
CASSIE.
by maceration from the Acacia faris melted, into which the and left to digest iot 'several the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are
It is procured
The
naiana.
flowers are
hours
;
purified fat
J
(thrown,
added, eight or ten. times, until sufficient richness of
perfume
As many
obtained.
is
the grease will cover,liquid state, â&#x20AC;˘
in a
sufficient
only to retain
its
liquidity,
impurities will, subside by1 standing for a few days.
Finally cooled,
The Huile de in
it,
-
k
After being strained, and the pomade has been
kept at a heat
.
flowers are used as
are put into
â&#x20AC;˘ .
all
when they
it is
the cassie
pomade of commerce.
Cassie, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared
a similar banner; substituting the
ben nut,
Both
olive, oil,
or
almond
oil,
oil
of Egyptian
in place. of suet.
these preparations are obviously only a solution
of the trpe essential
oil
of cassie flowers in the neu-
Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented potoadje from South Aus-
tral fatty body.
'
derived from- the Wattle, a plant that belongs
tralia,
same genus as the A. fdruesiana, and which Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle plentiful, e profitable
to the
grows most luxuriantly in Australia. trade
may
be anticipated in curing the flowers, &c.
To prepare
the extract of cassie, take six pounds
of No.
24 (best quality)
upon
one gallon of the best rectified
it
cassie popiado,
and place
spirit, as
sent
by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has digested for three weeks or' a month, at a summer out
.heat,
it
is
fit
to
draw from the pomatum, and,
if
good, has a beautiful green color and rich flowery
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
52
smell of the cassle blossom.
All extracts
this process
as
maceration,
cold infusion, give a
or,
may
it
made by
be called^
more natural-smell of the flowers
to the result, than, by merely; dissolving ‘the essential oil
(procured by
in the spirit; moreover,
distillation)
where the odor of
the- flower Exists
m
only very mi-
nute quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet,
jasmine, &c.,
In
this,
it
•
and
all
of
'
‘ ’
V
.
mode
only practical
is the' *
proceeding..
. .
other similar cases, the
pomatum
must be cut up into Yery small pieces, after the domestic manner of “chopping suet,” prior to its being
The
infused in the alcohol.
action of the mixture is
simply a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body by the -superior attraction^ or
affinity, as
in which
it
the chemists say, of the, spirits of wine,
;
freely dissolves.^
The major part of the extract can be poured or off the pomatum without trouble, but.it still re-
drawn
tains a portion in the interstices, to drain away,
and
this
which requires time
must be assisted by placing
the pomatum' in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to collect the remainder.
pomatum, whieh be put into a
tin,
is
now
which
Finally, all the
called ivashed tin
must be
pomatum,
pomatum thus becomes still
or
liquefied,
in it rises to the surface,
when
from
it.
the
.
.
is
any extract that
cold
to
when the
and can be skimmed
pomatum becomes
The washed pomatum
is
set into hot water,
for the purpose .of melting its contents';
it .*.
is
off,
can be poured •
preserved for use in the
Digitized by
CEDAR WOOD. manufacture of dressing pose
it is
53
the hair, for which pur-
-for
exceedingly well adapted, on account of the
purity of the grease from which
it
was originally pre-
pared; but more particularly on account of portion of odor which
used up in
this
way,
a second infusion in .could
it
it still
retains
;
spirit,
a.
certain
and were
would be advisable
it
not
to put it for
and thus a weaker extract
be made serviceable for lower priced
articles.
it more and druggists, as ah article well adapted for the purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades -
I cannot leave eassie without recommending
especially to the hotice of perfumers'
for the hair.
When
diluted with other odors,
it
im-
parts to the whole stioh a true flowery fragrance, that it is
who
the admiration of all
little
and has not a which certain pro-
smell
contributed to the great sale
it,
prietary articles have attained.
We oaution the inexperienced
not,to confound eassie
with caSsia, which has a totally different odor.
See
Acacia. Pomade.
Cedar Wood now and fumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s warehouse
;
then finds a place in a per-
when ground,
a body for sachet powder.
it
doeswcH to form wood are
Slips of cedar
sold as matches for lighting lamps, because while
burning an agreeable odor use
it also,
in drawers
is
evolved; 'some people
in this condition, distributed
to w prevent moth.â&#x20AC;?'
yields an essential
oil
that
is
On
among clothes distillation it
exceedingly fragrant.
Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use sively. for
scenting soap.
it
exten-
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
64
Lebanon Cedar Wood.
(
For lhe Handkarchirf) •
"V
Otto of cedar,
.
Rectified spirit,
I^prit rose
.
.
.
.
1 oz. .
.
which
.
1 pint.
•
$ pint.
trip, *
*•
•
The
.
tincture smells .agreeably of the wood, from
can readily, be madp.
it
Its crjmson
color,
from being used for the handkerchief. .It forms, an excellent tipeture for the and is the teeth, basis of the celebrated French dentifrice “ eau Botot." ; however, prohibits
it.
•
.
Cedrat.
—^his perfume
of the citron fruit tion
(
and expression
odor, and
is
is
procured from the rind
Citrus medica), both by distilla;
it
has a very beautiful lemony
much admired.
It is principally used in
the manufacture of essence^ for the handkerchief,'
being too expensive for perfuming grease
What
called extract Of cedrat
is
is
ing two ounces of the above essential
one pint of
spirits, to
oil
dissolv-
Qf citron in
which some jperfumers add half
an ouncp of bergamot. Cinnamon. Several
—
'or soap.
made by
species of the plant
Laurut
cinnamomum yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be derived from China
Amomum
,
the bark, being one of the most valued
spices of the BaSt.
and thp
oil, -which is
The ground bark pastilles, oil
Perfumers use both the bark obtained by distillation from
enters into tho composition of
tooth powders, and sachets.
of cinnamon
from Ceylon
;
is it
The
it.
some
essential
principally. brought to this country is
exceedingly powerful, and must
-
CITRONELLA
Citron.
—
Oii
*
distilling the flowers' of the
medica, a Very fragrant species of neroli,
and
oil is
the-
—Under
this
Citrus
procured, which
principally
is
manufacturers of eau de Cologne.
Citronella.
55
'
answer, so will cinnamon. '
—CLOVES.
In such compounds as cloves
be used sparingly.
is
a
consumed by the •
name
•
.
there is an
oil in
market* chiefly derived .from Ceylon .and the Bast
Indies;
its.
true origin
we
are unable to decide; in
somewhat resembles' citron 'fruit, but is very ’Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of' the Aridropogon genils. Being cheap, it od 6 r
it
inferior.
is
What
extensively used for. perfuming soap.
•now extensively sold as
“honey”
soap,
is
a
is
fine yel-
Some few much admired
low soap slightly perfumed with this 01L use.it for scenting grease,
in that, way.
hut itds not
’
OloVes.-—Every
1
’
'
.
j>art of the' “clove plant
(
Cargo
Clove.
phyllui aromaticity) -abounds with aromatic is
most fragrant and
plentiful' in the
oil,
but
it
unexpanded
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
56
flower-bud, which are the cloves of commerce.
Cloves
have been brought into the European market
for
more than 2000 years. The plant is' a native of the Moluccas and other islands in the China seas.' “ The average annual crop of cloves,” says Burnett, “is, .
from each
known
2 or 2|
tree,
125
yield
to
season, and. as
lbs.,
lbs.
but a fine tree has been
-
Of this spice in a single
5000 cloves oply weigh one pound,
there must have been" at least 625,000 .holers upon
^
this single tree.”-
The
oil
may
of cloves
!•••.'
•
be obtained by expression
from the fresh flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, which is carried on ta a very great extent oils
in
this
country.
Few
essential,
have a more extensive use in perfumery than that ~
of cloves spirit,
,
combines well with grease, soap, and
it
.
and, as wiH be sSbn in the rfecipes for the *
various bouquets given hereafter,
forms a leading
it
some of the most popular handkerchief essences, Rondeletia, the Guard’s Bouquet, &c,, and will be found wherh least expected. For essence of feature in
two
cloves, 'dissolve oil of cloves in the proportion of
ounces of
oil to.
one gallon of
spirit.
DiLL.^-Perfumers are now and then asked for “dill water;”
it is,
however, more a druggist’s article
than a perfumer’s, as qualities
than for
it is
its
more used
odor,
rather pleasant than otherwise.
.
for its medicinal
which by the way,
Some
is
use
ladies
water and half rose water,' as a J simple -©osmetic, “to clear the complexion.” a mixture of half .
dill *
.
The
oil
of
dill
l
is
procured by submitting the *
/
.
Y
** *
V Digitized by
*
EGLANTINE
—ELDER.
57
(Anetkum graveolehs) with water The oil floats on the surface- of the it is separated by the funnel in the usual mapper ;• after the separation of the oil, crushed fruit of
tn
dill
distillation-
from which
distillate,
the “witter”
is fit fo/-
with advantage, with other
if ‘In
Oil of dill
snjall
proportions,
Sweet
Eglantine, Or
.
%m
be used
mixed
sjrfd
S
’
notwithstanding
‘Briar,
what the poet Robert Jfoyes says *
may
sale.
for perfuming soap.
oils,
—
.or
'
•
In fragrance yields,
purpassing citron groves or spicy
does not find a place
in
room” except
This, like
name.
in
•
fields,”
the perfumer ’g “scent-
m Any other aweet-
sceuted plants, does hot repay the labor -of collecting its
odor.
more
The fragrant part of this" plant
and hence is in
tised
is discarded.
it
demand by the upon them, by *
.
*
is
or less under every treatment that
•
destroyed -put to,
it is
As, however, the article
public, a species of. fraud
imitating
it
thus
:
prac-
is
—
* -
*
Imitation Eglantine,* or Essence of Sweet Briar. Spirituous extract of Freneli rose
“
“ “
“
Espnt'dc
caseie, •
.
pomatum,
.
fleur d’orangc,
rose,
.
_
Oil of neroli,
Oil of lemon grass (verbena
oil),
. •
.
.
.
of this plant for. is
its
i
pint.
“ “
.
}
.
.
i
.
} drachm.
••
.
.
*.
*
Elder (Sambuaus nigra).— The' only perfumer,
1
>
.
.
i
“
“ .
preparation
odorous quality used by the
elder-flower water.
To prepare
it,
take
e
;
TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.
58
nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and introduce the
first,
it
to the still with four gallons of
three gallons that
come over
is qll
water
thaf.need-
one ounce ofjjjeotified spirit ; should be added to each gallon of “ water” .distilled,
he preserved for use
and when bottled
it is
ready for
Other .prepa-
sale.
rations of elder flowers are made, such as milk of
be found. in
elder, extract of elder, *&c., which: will
Two
their proper plaee under Cosmetics,
new
materials
made from/ this
-or three-
be
also
flower will
given hereafter, which are likely to meet with a very large
-sale
on account of the reputed cooling qualities
of the ingredients-; of these
more
particularly to cold
to elder
we would
cream of
oil for' Ihe hair.
The preparations of
call attention
elder-flowers,
and
v
elder-flowers, if
made
accord-
ing to .the Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the form& therein given show an utter .want
of- -know*,
ledge of the properties of the materials employed.
Fennel ( Foeniculwm vulgar when ground, enters into the sachet powders.
The
with other aromatic
oil
oils,
It is procurable
soap.
—Dried fennel
herb,
composition of some
of fennel, in conjunction
may
by
).
be used for perfuming-
distillation.
Fla.s (Sweet) (Acorus calamus).
— Tno
roots, or
rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a •
pleasant-smelling yield one
oil
pound of
;
1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus
oil.
can he used according to
It
the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, soap, or for extracts, but requires, other sweet oris
with
it
to hide its origin.
.
,
GERANIUM.
59
Geranium ( Pelargonium odoratissirrium, rose-leaf geranium)}— The leaves of this plant yield by distil.
lation a very agreeable rosy-smelling
sembling real
qf rose,
Uffcto
that
it is
so
oil,
muth
sively for the adulteration of that valuable
and
oil,
grown very largely "for that express purposp.
is
It is
and
principally .cultivated in the south of Prance,
Turkey (by the
re-
used very exten-
in
-In the department of
rose-growers).
Seine-et-Oise, at Montfdrt-Lamaury, in France, hun-
dreds of acres of
it
may he
seen growing.
•
cwt. of
.1
leaves will yield about two ounces' of essential
Used' to adulterate' Otto of rose, adulterated with ginger grass
in
it is
.its
oil.
turn itSelf
oil (Andropogon ),
and
thus formerly was very difficulty procure genuine
on-accoUnt of the increased cultivation of the plant, is
now, however, easily procured
pfire.
Some samples
are greeflish-colored, others nearly white, but •.
;
it
we
pre-
fer that of a brownish tint.
When
dissolved in rectified spirit, in the propor-
tion of about*
si*;
ounces to the gallon, it forms the
A
“extract of rose-leaf geranium'’ of the shops.
word as
or two
much
is
necessary abotrt the
confusion
is
quence of there being an
oil
nium, but which in reality
andropogon (geranium
terate the true geranium,
nomenclature
in. the
rosedeaf geranium vfhile
it, -in
conse-
under the name of geraderived from the An-
!)
oil
the- Moluccas.
-This
can be used to adul-
and hence we suppose
>drugf markets.
oil
the andropogon
of geranium,
is
dropogon nardus, cultivated in said
oil
created respecting
its
The genuine
fetches about 6s. per. ounce,
oil is
not worth more than that
Digitized by
GoogI
;
'
.
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
60
And we may
sum per pound.
perfuming essential
oils-
observe here, that the
are best purchased through
the wholesale perfumers, as from the nature of their
trade thej have a better knowledge and means of ob-
account of the pleasing odor of - the true leaf geranium,-
many
it is
satisfaction.
•
•
fat,
grandijlorum. at present it
we may
ing perfumer.
of rdse-
perfuming
-
or enfleurage
obtain this fine odor from
Heliotrope
Peruvianum
H.
or
is,
not applied to use by the manufaefur‘
This we think rather a singular
especially as'the perfume
abundant.
oil
.Exquisite as the odor. of this plant
is
We
ments being
article for
*
.
of /the
the flowers
'
to give the publie great
—Either by maceration
Heliotrope. with clarified
a valuable
and appears
materials,
p
On
taining the real, article than the drug-broker.
is
-
fact,
powerful and the flowers
should like to hear of some experi-.
tried with, this plant for procuring its
odor ip this epuntry, and for that purpose now suggest the
mode of operation which would most
lead to successful results.
For a small
'
likely
trial in-
the
which can be managed by any person having the run of a garden, we will say, procure an first instance,
ordinary, glue-pot
now
in
common
water-fbathj in
holding
chemical parlance
a pound
or
which
use,
the material by the boiling of water
;
.
it
—one
more of melted
is
ndeTts
in fact a-
capable of
fat.
.
-At the
season when the flowers are in bloom, -obtain half a
pound of fifie mutton
suet,-
melt the suet and strain
it
through a close hair-siqve, allow the .liquefied "fat, as it falls
from the
sieve, to
drop into cold -spring water
Digitized by
;
61
HELIOTROPE.
and washes the blood and In order to start with a perfectly
this operation granulates
membrane from
it.
inodorous grease, the melting and granulation process
may be
repeated three or four times
remelt the fat and cast
adhering water.
Now pot,
.
.
finally,
;
into a pan to free
it
â&#x20AC;˘
*.
â&#x20AC;˘
it
from
â&#x20AC;&#x17E;
pHt the clarified suet into the .macerating
and place
it
in such
a position near the
enough
be liquid; into the fat
to
flowers as
.
you can, and there
twenty-four hours
;
let
fire
of
warm throw ascmany
the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will kegp
it
them remain for from
at this time strain the fat
the spent flowers and add fresh ones operation for a week :
we expect
;
repeat this
at the last straining
the fat will have- become very highly perfumed, and
when
cold
may
be justly termed
Pomade d
la Helio-
trope.
The
pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding,- is- now to be put into a wide-mouthed bottlft,
eold
and covered with
be obtained, and
spirits as
left to
the spirit then strained in reality
it
will
will
is
week
or
'as
can
more
be highly perfumed
be extract of Heliotrope , a delightful
perfume for the handkerchief. operation
highly rectified
digest for a off.
simple enough
:
The rationale of the body has a strong
the, fat
affinity or attraction for the odorous- body, or essential
of the flowers, and
oil
contact,
and becomes
itself
it
therefore absorbs
perfumed.
operation, the spirit has a
much
it
by
In the second
greater attraction
for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter
;
the
former, therefore, becomes perfumed at tho expense G
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
62
The same experiment may be repeated
of the latter. with almond
oil
substituted for the fat.
The experiment heM hinted at, may be varied with any flowers- that there are toipare; indeed, 1?y having the macerating bath larger than was mentioned above, p an excellent milbefleur pomade and essenoe might be
produced .from every conservatory in the kingdom,
and thn& we-may receive aneiber enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of form
and
color,
We
;
:
hope that those of our readers who
feel in-
clined to try experiments of this nature will not be detCrred-by. saying,
“ they are not worth the trouble.”
must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the London perfumery warehouses 16#. It
per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine flowery-teented
pomades fetch the same sum
per' pound.
If the
experiments are successful they should be- published,,
may hop©
as then yte
ing.
.
new and imporBut we are digress-
to establish a
tant manufacture in this country. .
The odor almonds and
of heliotrope resembles a mixture of vanilla,
and
is
well imitated thu^:
Extract op Heliotbope: Spirituous extract of vanilla, 11
-
.
.
.
-
orange-flowef
.
pomatum, (
M ,
•
11
Ambergris,
Essential oil of almonds, •
A
preparation
-
made
>
, .
in this
.
.
.
.
.. *
}
“
.
2 oz.
.
- 1* oz.
.5 drops.
'
>
i pint.
.
.
French rose pomatum,
•
“
“
‘
.
manner under the name
Digitized by
—
HONEYSUCKLE. of Extract de Heliotrope
63
that which
is
shops of Paris and London, and
sold in the
is
really a very nice
is
perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.
Honeysuckle ,
,
Woodbine
or *
;
—
• .
*
i
,
.
“ Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan,
But well compensating her
sickly looks •'
With never-cloying odors.”
*
What
the poet
theless,
it is
Cowper here
a flower that
fumery, though there
is
is
' *
says- is quite true; never-
not used in practical per-
no reason for abandoning
it.
.The experiments suggested for obtaining the odor of
HeJmtrOpe and'Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good Imitation of Honeysuckle isjnade thus
:
l
Spirituous extract of rose pomatum, ' •' « “ M violet ’
'
It
tl
Extract of vanilla, '
•“
Tolu,
•
#
%
The prime
.
.
*
cost of a
a retail druggist with rectified spirit will yet
rally given
to.
.
to
in this
•
u
manner
meet the demand of
cases
it
may
be diluted
the extent “ to mak,e
be a nicb perfume.
*
drops,
5%
perfume made
“ *
v *
.
'.10
.
.
.
in such
“
i
•
•
#
would probably be too high'
when
.
.
•*: ,
“
1
1
.
,
pint.
1
.
• ‘
Otto neroli, u almehds,
and
.
tubereuse
it
pay,”
The formula gene-
herein for odors js in anticipation that
bottled they will retail for "Ut least eighteen-'
Digitized by
.
64
ART GF PERFUMERY.
TIIE
pence the
flukl
ounce
1
which
is
the average price
put on the finest perfumery by the manufacturers of
London and IIovexia-
'
Paris.
•
—A perfume
a limited extent, but the plant
Japan,
market
if it
is
—
made thus
U. incquaUg, a
is
native of the
•
f
quart,
Rectified. spirit,
1
Rose-water,
£
Otto lemons,
i oz.
Otto of rose,* u cloves,
1
it
•
sold to
jflic article in
at all.
sell
•
name
this
did not smell better than
IIov<*tiia clulcis or
would not
it
under
*
pint.
drachm.
i 10 drops.
neroli,
First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add .the
After
rose-water.
When compounds
by passing through little
filtration
is
ready for
only added in
sale.
become bright
blotting^papor, the addition of a
carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering
The water
tually clears them. is
it
of this kind do not
<5rder-
in the
effec-
above recipe
may
that the article produced
be retailed at a moderate price, and woujd, of course, be better without that “ universal friend.”
Jasmine.— * * * '
r
t
‘^Luxuriant above
•
.
The jasmine throwing wide her elegant *
*
1 •
•
•
%
This flower
.
all,
sweets.”
is
,
one of 'the most 'prized by the per-
fumer.
Its pdor
liar that
it is
is
delicate,
and sweet,
ap'd so pecu-
without comparison, and as such cannot
be imitated..-
When
the flowers of the
Jasminum
Digitized by
JASMINS.
odoratiatimum are
65
repeatedly using the water
distilled,
of distillation over fresh flowers, the essential
jasmine taay be procured.
It
is,
oil
of
however, exceed-
ingly rare, on account of the enormCus cost of. pro-
There was a
duction.
fine
sample of six ounoes ex-
hibited in the Tunisian department of the Crystal .
Palace, the priee qf which was
9?.
•
Theplant '
our
name
the -Yasmyn
is is
derived.
the.
Off
the fluid ounce -
1
Arabs, 'from which -
‘ .
.
,
In the perfumer’s laboratory, tKe. method of Obtaining the odor is by absorption, or, &s the French term it,
enfieurage; that
\ lard and day or flpwers
"bo,
it, leaving them to stand a and repeating the operation with fresh
over
all
—the grease
pomade
by spreading a mixture of pure
is,
suet on a glass tray, and sticking the fresh-
fathered flowers
is;
absorbs the odor.
scraped off. the glass or
low- a temperature as possible,
Finally, the
melted at as
slate,
and strained.
Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared*
much
in the.
6ame way.
cotton wool, previously -steeped
by
ill oil
oletfera), are
Xayers of
of hen' (obtained
pressure- from thc'blanched nuts of
-Moringa,
t
covered with jasmine flowers, which
repeated" several times
;
finally, the- .cottofc
'j?r
is
linen
cloths whicb-some perfumers use, are Squeezed under
The jasmine
a press.
oil
thus produced
aKjasmm 'cdthk French
qntiqUe
houses.
is
the Huile
-
The “ extraet of 'jaemiqe1 is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pontado or oil, and al’
lowing them to remain together for a fortnight at a
summer '
\
Beat.
‘ •
.
/'
The ‘
best quality extract requires two 6* //.:. '
-
'.f
;
V
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
66
pounds of pomatum to every quart of
spirit. The same can be done with the oil of jasmine. If the it must eat up fine previously be to pomade is used, being put into the spirit if the oil is. used, it must be shaken well together every two or mo^e hours, '
;
otherwise, On account of
and but
separates; spirit.
After the cxtrhct
pomatum
or*
oil
composition of
js
Still
pomatum
surface
is
useful,
'
• »
;
the “'washed”
remelted, in the
and gives more any of the “ cre'ams
for the hair,
.*
••
•
and balms,” &c. &c., made sential oils
if
off,
Jasmine.
.
• .
/
exposed to the
-is
strained
satisfaction to a oustomer than
: r
gravity, the oil
its specific
little
the one smells
“ a nondescript.”.The extract of jasmine •
.
up‘
and scented with*
of the
es-
flower, the other '
• v> enters into the composition :
•
Digitized by
Google I
— JONQUIL
many
of a great
—LAUREL—LAVENDER.
67
of the most approved handkerchief
perfumes sold by the English and French perfumers. Extract of jasmine
is
sold for the handkerchief of^en
one of those scents which, though vt^-y gratifying at first; becomes what people call “ sickly’ pure, but
is
after exposure to the oxidizing influence of the air,
hut
judiciously mixed with other perfumes of
if
opposite character
customer.
;
is
perfumery purposes
.for
it
very beautilittle
and tubereuse.
The Parisian
a mixture which they call
sell
jonquil.”
is
however but
is
prepared exactly as jasmine.
fumed
.
.
scent of the jonquil
cultivated in comparison with jasmine It
an
sure to please the most fastidious .
— The
Jonquil. ful
is
per-
extract of
.The plant, however, only plays the part of
a godfather to the offspring, giving so«called jonquil
is
made
Spirituous extract of jams^ne pomade,
u
tubereuse
“
‘i
“
fleur d’orange,
Extract of vanilla,
.
'
it its
The
name.
thus:
.
.
1 pint.
.
.
.
.1
.
.
J
<
.
2 fluid ounces.
“ “
—
Laurel. B.y distillation from the berries of the Laurus nobilis and from the leaves of the Laurus :
cerasus, an
oil
-and perfumed water
ai*e
procurable of
a very beautiful and fragrant character. cially,
however,
it
is
Commer-
disregarded, as from the simi-
larity of odor to the oil
distilled
from 'the
bitter
rarely, if ever, Used by the perfumer, the more economical. Lavender. The climate of England' appears to
almond,
it is
latter being
—
be better" adapted for tho perfect development of
this
Digitized by
TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.
68
fine old favorite
perfume than any other on the globe,
he ancients,â&#x20AC;? says Burnett,
â&#x20AC;&#x153;employed
the flowers
the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a
swget scent to water in which they washed; hence the generic
name
jLavender
Mjtcham, tion,
in
Lavandula .â&#x20AC;?
of the plant, is
grown
an enormous extent
to
which
in Surrey,
the scat of
is
a commercial point of view.
grown
quantities are also
its
at
produc-
Very
large
France, but the fine
in
odor of the British produce realizes in the markot four times the price of that of Continental growth.
Burnett says that the
oil
of
Lavandula spied
more
is
pleasant than that derived from the other species, but
must not mislead the purchaser
this statement
the French spike lavender, as
it is
to
buy
not* worth a tenth
of that derived from the Lavandula; verm.
Ilalf-a-
v
hundred weight of good lavender flowers distillation,
from 14
to.
16
yield,
by
oz. of essential oiL
All the inferior descriptions of
oil
used foT perfuming soaps and greases
of lavender are ;
but the best,
Mitcham lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender water, but which, more properly, should be called that obtained from the
essence or extract of lavender, to be in keeping with
the nomenclature of other essences prepared with spirit.
The number liquid
of formulae published for
perfume of lavender
whole of them der, simple
;
may
is
making a
almost endless, but the
be resolved into essence of laven-
essence of lavender, compound
lavender water.
'
*
and
;
-
/
.
Digitized by
— LAVENDER.
69
i
There are two methods of making essence of lavender: 1.. By distilling a mixture of essential oil of
—
lavender and rectified spirit
merely mixing, the
The "which
first is
oil
and the other
;
and the
—
2.
*
By
spirit together.
process yields the. finest quality :
that
it is
adopted by the firm of Smyth and Nephew,
whose reputation for
such that
this article is
gives
it
a good character in foreign markets, especially India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture.
Lavender essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by mixture only always has a yellowish
which by age becomes darker and
tint,
resinous.
.
•
.
Smytu’s Lavender.
,
To produce a very
fine distillate, take
Ottoof’English Lavender,
...
•.
.
Rectified spirit (GO over proof),
Rose-water,
Mix and lavender is a
4
oz.
5
pints.
1 pint. 9
•
there
.
.
.
distil is
Such essence of
five pints for sale.
expensive, hut at Ids. a pint of 14 oz
margin
!
It not being convenient
for profit.
to the general dealer to sell distilled lavender essence,
tho-following form,
by mixture,
will
produce a
first-
rate article, and nearly as white as the above. Essence of Lavendbr. Otto of lavender, Rectified spirit, .
.
.
.....
•
The perfumer’s
.
•
.
.
.
.
,
<
.
31
oz.
2 quarts.
,*
retail price for
such quality
is
8*.
per pint of 14 oz.
Digitized by
T
T
a
:
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
70
Many
perfumers and druggists in making lavender
water or essence, use a small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving
its
—
quality
r
very erro-
neous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly '
colors.
'
f
•
.
dis-
.
Lavender Water.— ake *
*
English Spirit,
oil
;
Rose-water,
*
of lavender, .
.
.
.
*
-
.
i
.
Filter as above, %
*
,
and
.
.
4 oz.
.
.
-.
3 quarts.
.
.
%
ifc
is
.*
.
1 pint.
.
ready for
•
•
sale.
I
Common Lavender Water. —-S ame form
as the
above, substituting French lavender for the British.
Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, will be given
come
to
when we
speak of 'compound perfumes, which will be
reserved until we have finished explaining the method
of making the simple essences.
Lemon.
—
his
fine
perfume
•
is
•
abstracted
the Citrus limonum, by expression, from the the
fruit.
The
Otto of lemons in the
cipally from Messina,,
:
such
is
cellar.
when
Most
is
in contact with air
a high temperature
the case
it
of
-
prin-
Otto of lemons, like
the ottos of the Citrus family, oxidation
from
rifad is
where there are hundreds of
acres of “ lemon groves.!’
light
market
is also*
all
*
rapidly prone to
and exposure to
detrimental, and' as
should be preserved in a cool
of the
samples from the gas-heated
shelves of the druggists’ shops, are as
much
like es-
sence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons rancid
oil
of lemons
may,
in a great measure,
be puri-
Digitized by
LEMON GRASS.
71
fied bj agitation with warm water and final decantation. When new- and good, lemon otto may be. freely use*! in condonation with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming powders for the nursery. From
rapid oxidation,
its
ing gr ease, as
it
should not be. used for perfum-
assists rather
it
to turn rancid
;
than otherwise
all fats
hence pomatums so perfunfed
will
In the manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved jn spirit, in nbt keep well.
the proportion of six to eight ounces of
There
gallon of spirit.
logne;- that Farina uses *
it is
adding a few drops of Liq.
to one
oil
a large consumption of
is
Eau do Codiscovered by
otto of lemons in the manufacture of easily
Ammonim
*
fort, to
half an
oQnce of his Eau de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is
thereby brought out in a remarkable manner
Perhaps
not
it is
in attempts to discover! the composition .
perfumes,
we
are
do
of the
essential
combining with the Ammonia, allow those which .not
smelt. '
Certain
of -certain
by the use of
greatly assisted
strong Liq. Ammoniae.. oils
1
."
of place here to remark, that
out.
do
so,
'
-
i
.
Lemon Grass.
in the
present in the compound, to be
if
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; According
market under this name
Amlrvpogon
Pereira, the otto
to is
derived from the
sckoenajithas, a species of grassâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;
groWs abundantly
in
India.
It
which
cilltivatpd to a
is
large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which
by
distillation.
times called,
oil
from the plant
Lemon
is
easily prpgurcd
grass otto, or, as
it is
of verbena, on account of
its
somesimi-
/ Digitized by
.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
72
larity of odor to that favorite plant,
It
very powerful, well adapted for perfuming soaps
is
and greases, but manufacture of its
imported into
is
country in old English porter and Stout bottles.
this
its
principal consumption
artificial
in' the
is
essence of verbeha.
From
.
Comparatively low price, great strength, and fine
perfume (when
diluted), the
lemon grass
much more used than at present, with advantages the retail shopkeeper. Lilac.— The fragrance of the flowers mental shrub
is
well
otto
may
of this orna-
The essence of
known.
be
considerable
lilac is
obtained either by the process of maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the po-
matiim thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as previously described for cassie the' odor so much resembles tubereuse, as to be frequently used* to adulterate the latter, the demand for tubereuse ;
being at
all
compounded thus
White Lilac may "be
:
—
* .
«
•
•
Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, .
A beauti-
times greater than the sfipply.
Imitation of Essence of
ful
-
“
'
Otto, of
.
of orange-flower pbmade,
almonds,
.
'
.'
.
>'
.
.
Extract of civet,
The
civet
is
.
.
1 pint.
.
J
.
3 drops.
“
% oz;
only used to give permanence to the
perfume of the handkerchief.
'
—The
manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the inspired writer, to “ consider the lilies Lily.
of the
field.’’
cultivated
for,
Rich as they are their perfume.
If
in odor, lilies
they are not
are thrown into
'
—
;
MAGNOLIA. of sweet almonds, or ben
oil
sweet smell
;
oil,
73
they impart to
their
it
but to obtain anything like fragrance,
the infusion must be -repeated a dozen times with the
same
oil,
using fresh flowers for each infusion, after
standing a day or
The
so.
oil
being shaken with an
equal quantity of spirit for a week, gives up to the alcohol,
But how
it is
and thus extract of
made
is
thus
may
lilies
odor
its
be made.
:
Imitation “Lily of thb. ValLey.” Extract of-tubereuse, . U jasmine, a fleur d’orange,
u
vanilla,
u
u
cassie, •
rose,
Otto of almonds,
.... ....
Keep 'this mixture bottle
it
for sale.
.
•
•
f
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2 oz.
.
.
.
3 oz.
.
.
.
\ pint.
.-
.
3 drops.
.
togethfer for a
It is a
I pint.
.
.
1 oz.
month, and then
perfume that
is
much
very
admired. ''Mace,
— Ground mace
is
used in the manufacture
of some of those scented powders called Sachets.
A
strong-smelling essential
it
by
distillation,
Magnolia.
but
it is
mtjy be procured from
oil
rarely used.
—The perfume of
practically, however,
it is
of
this flower is
little .use
facturer, the large size of the blossoms
superb
to the
and
manu-
their
com-
parative scarcity prevents their being used, but a very excellent imitation of is
that which
is
odor
its
is
made
as
under, and
found in the perfumers’ 4hops of Lon-
don and Paris. * •
‘
T
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
74
Imitation “Essence of Magnolia.”
*
pomatum, rose pomatum, tubereuse pomatum, violet pomatum,
Spirituous extract of orange-flower
“
“
a
“
“
.
“
Essential oil of citron,
“
“
•
Marjoram.
.
.
almonds,
— The
.
1 *
,
.J
.
J
.
.
.
.
pint.
2 pints.
.
.
pint. *.*
.
.3 drs. .10
.
drops.
r
etto procured
ganum majorqna, commonly by the French,
.
.
by
distilling Ori-
called oil of oringeat
exceedingly powerful, find in this
is
respect resembles
all
the
ottos^ fyorq
species of thyme, of which the
the
marjoram
is
different
one.
One
hundred weight of the dry herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. for
Oringeat
oil is
extensively used
perfuming soap, but more in .France than in
England.
It
is
the chief ingredient used
by Gelle
Fr&res, of Paris, for scenting their “ Tablet Monstre
Soap,” so common in the London shops.
Meadow Sweet. produced by
—A sweet-smelling
distilling the jSpircea
1
otto can be
ulmaria, but itjs
not used by perfumers.
See Balm. Mignonette.^— But for the
Melissa. little
flower, it
than as
and
a. weed.
exquisite odor of this
would scarcely be kpown otherwise
Sweet as
prolific in odor,
we
it is
in its natural state,
are not able to maintain
characteristic smell as an essence.
during separation from the plant, the fragrance
more ox
less modified
reminds the sense give
it
;
though not perfect,
of" the
its
Like many others, is
it
still
odor of the flowers.
To
that sweetness which-
it
appears to want, a
Digitized by
A
T
75
MINT. certain quantity of violet
the market odor.
As
added
is
Very
prolific in odor,
something might be done' with
it
up
it
France
it
in England, espe-
and we desire
Flower Farms and
to see
ganized Perfumatories established in the British for the extraction of essences
pomade and
or-
Isles,
and the manufacture of
of such flowers as are indigenous,
oils,
or that thrive in the open fields of our country,
up a new
sides opening
investment for capital,
ment
field it
ployment for the young,
Be-
of enterprise and good
would give healthy employ-
many women and
to
to
we think
flourishes as well in this country as in
cially as ;
to bring
.
this plant is so
is
Open
children.
of no
little
em-
air
consideration
to maintain ibe stamina of the future generation; for it
cannot
4m denied
that
and
our factory system
confined cities are prejudicial to the physical condition of the
To
human
>return
family.
from our digression.
The
essence of
more often sold under the name ef Extrait de Bdzdda, is prepared by .infusing the rtfzdda pomade in rectified spirit,' in the proportion of one pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together for a fortnight, when the esmignonette,
sence
or, as it is
is filtered off
dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ambri:
is
added
permanence
the pomade.
to
does not in any way^ alter
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
.
One ounce of
every pint.
to the odor
its
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
ll
is
extrait
done to give
odor.
Miribane. he French name of almond (see Ai*mond). Mint.-
This
upon the handkerchief, and for artificial essence
the Mcnthidee yield fragrant ottos
by
Digitized by
—
A
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
76
The
distillation.
(M.
otto of the spear-mint
viridis)
exceedingly powerful, and very valuable for per-
is
fuming soap,
in conjunction with other perfumes. Per-
fumers use the ottos of the mint
in the
manufacture
The leading in“eau Botot” is oil' of pepgood imitation may be mad©
of mouth-washes and dental liquid?.
.
gredient in the celebrated
A
permint in alcohol, thus
:
Eau de E0T9T.
.
Tincture of cedar wood, “ myrrh,. ,
'
spear mint,
“
cloves,
.
“
roses,
.
1
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
1
.
.
pint
1 oz.
‘
Oil of peppermint,
“
,
.... .
i
dr.
_
} dr. 10 drops.
.
.
.
•
.
10
.
Modifications 'of this formula can be readily -sug-
main object is to retain the mint ottos, more power than any other aromatic to
gested, but the
as they have
Mouth-washes,
overcome the smell of tobacco.
it
must be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a dentifrice.
Myrtle. by
—
distilling
myrtle
very fragrant otto
may be
procured
both flowers and leaves of the
common
ene hundred-weight will yield about
;
ounces of the volatile
oil.
The demand
five
for essence
of myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the
perfumers’ shops it is
is
imitated thus
:
very rarely a genuine
—
but
article,
'
•
Imitation Essence of Myrtle. Extract of vanilla,
“
.
roses,
.
.
•
.
.
.
.
$ 1
pint.
“
..
Digitized by
NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER. Extract of fleur.d'orangc, “ tubereuse, u jasmine, . .
Mix and
and
is
“
i .
.
.
,
.
allow to stand for a fortnight
for bottling,
77 J pint.
a perfume
thq,t
.
:
it is
2 oz.
then
fit
gives a great deal
of satisfaction.
Myrtle-flower water
name
is
of eau d’ange, and
sold in France under the
may
he prepared like rose,
elder, or other flower waters.
—
NEROLr, or Orange-flower. Two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them.
This difference of perfume frorp the same flower
fact
is
is
a
This curious
great advantage to the manufacturer.
worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher.
It is not peculiar to the orange-flower, but applies to
many others, especially When orange-flowers process, that
is,
—probably
rose
to all flowers.
are treated by the fhaceration
by infusion
cure Qfange-flower pomatum,
in a fatty its
bodyj we pro-
strength and quality
being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower
made
in the
same grease*
>
By''digesting this orange-flower fied spirits in the proportions of
eight pounds of
a fortnight
pomade
‘At a
pomatum
in recti-
from six pounds to
to a gallon of spirit, for
suihmer. heat,
wo obtain
about
the extrait
de fleur d’orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpassed by none.
In this state
its
odor resembles the original so much, that with closed eyes the best judge couhl not distinguish tho scent of the extract, from that of the flower.
The
peculiar*
7*
Digitized by
78
THE ART OF PERFCMERY.
flowery odor of this extract renders
fumers, not only to
sell in
it
valuable to per-
a pure state, but slightly
modified with other extraits passes for “ sweet -pea,”
Orange.
“magnolia,” &c., which
it
grance.
slightly resembles in fra-
.
Nqw, when orange-flowery are distilled with watei we procure the pttp of the blossom, which is Known -
,
commercially as
oil
from the flowers
of neroli.
of-
the
The- neroli procured
Citrus aufantiiim
sidered to he the finest quality, and petale.”
The next
is
is
con-
called “ neroli
quality; “neroli bigarade,”
is
de-
rived from tie blossoms of the Citrus bigaradia, or Seville orange.
Another quality, which
is
considered
inferior to the. preceding, is the neroli petit grain,
Digitized by
NUTMEG.
79
obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus.
The “petale” and “bigarade” neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit grain is iflainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de neroli^ dissolve
1^
oz. of neroli getale in
one
Although very agreeable, the manufacture of 'bouquets,
gallon of rectified spirits.
and extensively used in it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d’orange, as derived from the samo flowers by maceration
;
has as different an odor as
in fact, it
though obtained from' another plant, yet in theory both these extraits are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower.
The water used for distillation in procuring the when well freed from the oil; is imported into eau de fleur d’orange,
neroli,
this country untfer the name, of
and may be used,
like elder-flower
the skin, and as ah eye lotion. its fine
fragrance, and
it is
ahd rose-water, for
It is remarkable for
astonishing that
it is
not
more used, being moderate in price. (See Syringa.) Nutmeg, The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used -
—
'
advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bago.
Olibanum
is
a
gum
in thig country,- in the pastilles.
— See “Sachet’s Powders.”
resin, used to a limited extent
manufacture of incense and
It is chiefly interesting as being one of
Digitized by
U
80
a
TIIE
ART OF PERFUMERY. «
those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention
made “
in the
" is
Holy volume.*
It is believed,” says Burnett,
“
have been one
to
of the ingredients in the sweet incense of .the Jews;
and
it
burnt as incense in the Greek and
still
is
Romish churches, where round' the
jjltar
gious service.
the* diffusion of such odors
forms a part of the prescribed
reli-
•
'
Olibanum is most of the balsams, probably owes
.
•
partially soluble in alcohol, and, like
perfume
its
to a
peculiar odoriferous body,' associated with the benzoic acid
it.
contains.
For making the tincture of extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the
Orange
—
gum
nder
to 1 gallon of the spirit.
the
“Nereli” we
title
have
already sp’bken of the odoriferous principle of the .
We have now to speak of what is known in the markot' as Essence of Orange, or, a» it is more frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,— name, however, which we cannot admit in a classified orange-blossom.
list
of the “ odors of {Hants.”
The
the orange distillation. little
Its
‘
’
.
otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of fruit,- is
•
procured by expression and by
The peel
is
rasped in order to crush the
vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.
abundance in the peel
is
piece near the flame of a, candle
shown by pinching a ;
the
o.tto
that spirts
out ignites- with a brilliant illumination. It has
many
uses in perfumery, and jrom
freshing fragrance finds
* See
many
its
re-
admirers.
“ Incense.”
Digitized by
ORRIS. the
It is
81
ingredient in what
leading
is
“Lisbon Water” and “ Eau de Portugal.” lowing
fol-
Water.
LiSbost
Gtto of orange peel-, “ lemon peel,
.
.
...
.
......
rose,
is
The
a very useful form for preparing
is
Rectified spirit (not less than GQ over proof),
This
sold as
gallon.
.
I
.
3 oz.
.
3 oz.
.
1 oz.
a form for
Eau de Portugal. Rectified spirit (GO oyer proof),
Essential
**
“ “
oil
»
“ H -
of orangfe peel,
.1
.
gaHon.
.
.
.
6 oz..
lemou
peel,
...
.
.
1 oz.
lemon
grass,
.
'
.
.
...
bergamot, otto of rose,
.
I
.
oz.
.
.
1 oz.
.
...
I oz.
It should be noted that these perfumes ara never
to be filled into wqt bottles, for if
Jn 'any way damp
from water, a minute portion of the ottos ’are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to tho mixture.
Indeed,
all
bottles should be spirit rinsed
prior do being filled with
any perfume,
but, especially
with those containing essences of orange or lemon •'
peel.
Orris, properly Iris.
—The
V
dried rhizome of Iris
jlarcntina has a very pleasant odor, which, for the
want of a better comparison, smell of .violets
tory to the
when such
;
it
is,
is
said to resemble the
however, exceedingly deroga-
chartning aroma of that. modest flower invidious comparisons are' made.
i
Never-
Digitized by
;
.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
82
theless the peiffume of iris root
worthy of the place
The powder of
sively used
in
orris, or* as
a perfuming
very exten-
fathers that celebrated “ori-
It
known
For tincture of
Qdonto.”
as
the perfumers
call
•
it,
Extract of'Orris,
,
•
»
•
Take
good; and well as-
orris root is
the manufacture of ’sachet powders,
tooth-powder, &e. ental herb”
is
haa obtained
it
Bubstance.
orris root, crushed,
Rectified spirits;
•.
.
.„
.
.
.
'
7 lbs.
.
.
.
.1
.
gallon.
After standing together for about a fortnight,, the extract
fit
te'
to take
off.
It requires considerable
away, and, to prevent
time to drain
the
loss,
re-
mainder, of the orris should be placed in the tincture press.
Tliis
extract -enters
into
composition
the
many of the most celebrated bouquets, such as “ Jockey Club,” and others, but is never sold alone, of
because
good
its
odor, although grateful, «is- not sufficiently
to *&tand
public opinion upon" its
but in combination little
aroma
itself,
its
yet
value it
is
own
merits
very -great; ppssessing
has the power of strengthen-
ing the odor of other fVagrant bodies; like the
and
steel;
flint
which though comparatively incombustible,
readily flee inflammable bodies.
Palm.
—The odor of palm oil—the fat
oil
of com-
mcrce^-is due to a fragrant principle -which tains. is
By
con-
it
infusion in alcohol, the odoriferous
body
dissolved, artd resembles, to a certain- extent, the
tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but indifferent,
and
is
is
not likely to be brought into
very use,
Digitized by
PATCHOULY.
83
though several attempts have been made to render
it
6f service 'when -the cultivation of the violets have
from bad seasons. Patchouly. Pogostemori patchouly (Bindley), craasifoliua (Burnett), .is an herb that grows extensively in India and China. It> somewhat resembles our garden saga in its growth and form, failed
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
PUctranthus
but the leaves are
pot* so fleshy.
The odor of patchouly in the leaves distillation.
oz.
o'f
is due to an otto contained and stems, and is readily procured by 1 cwt. of good herb wilL yield about 28
thp essential
oil,
which
is
of a 'dark brown
*
Patchouly.
color^and of
b
density about the same as that of
of sandal wood, which character.
â&#x20AC;˘
it
Its odor is the
oil
resembles in its physical
most powerful of any
rived from the botanic kingdom
;
hence,
if
de-
mixed
in
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
84
I
the proportion of measure for meausure, covers the smell of
"...
spirit;
Otto of patchouly, “ rose, . .
.
.1
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
The essence of 'patchouly, thus made is
found
in the perfumers’
Although few run, yet
•
|
is
that which
shops of Paris and London,
have had such a fashionable
p'erfunles
when smeHed
It oz. i oz.
\
•
gallon.
.
.
•
.
. .
completely
it
'
Extracj of Patchouly.
:
Rectified
other bodies.
all
at in its pure state,
it
is
far
from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to
Lycopodium,
or, as
some say,
it
smells of “ old coats.”
The is
characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink
due to some admixture of
this herb.
The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in A few years ago real Indian Europe is curious. shawls' bore an extravagant
price,
and purchasers
could always distinguish them by their odor
they were perfumed with patchouly.
;
in fact,-
The French
manufacturers had for some time successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor.
At
length they discovered the-secret, and began to
import the plant to perfume articles of their make,
and thus palm
off
hemespun shawls
From
this origin the
use.
Patchouly herb
as real Indian
!
perfumers have brought *it into is
drawers in which linen
extensively used for scenting
is
kept^ for this purpose
it is
best to powder the leaves and put sacks, covered with silk, after
them into muslin the manner of the old-
Digitized by
—
;
SWEET PEA. In
fashioned Lavender bag.
85 very
this state it is
effi-
cacious in preventing the clothes from being attacked
by moths.
Several combinations of patchouly will ‘
be given in the recipes for “-bouquets and nosegays.”
Pea (Sweet).—A very fine odor may be abstracted from the flowers of the chick-vetch by ulceration in
any fatty body, and then digesting, the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however,, rarely manufactured, because a very close
.
Imitation qf the Essence of Sweet JPia
can be prepared thus Extract of tuberose,
.
:
*
fleur d’orange, '
“
“
.
} pint.
.
“
-
i
rose from
pomatum,
.
h
vanilla,
.
.
1 oz.
.
“
Scents, ‘like sounds,- appear to influence the olfac-
There
tory nerVe in -certain definite degrees. it
were, an octave of odors
like'
is,
as
an octave in music
certain
odors coincide, like the keys of an instru-
ment.
Such as
almond, heliotrope,
vanilla,
orange-blossoms blend together, each producing
and dif-
ferent degrees of
a nearly similar intpression.
we have
lemon, orange-peel, and verbena,
citron,
forming a ‘higher octave of similar manner.
we
'smells,
The metaphor
is
Again,
which blend in a completed by what
are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and
rose geranium for the half note'; petty grain, neroli,
Then we and many
a black key, followed by fleur d’orange.
have patchouli, sandal-wood, and others running into each other.
vitivert, .
.
•
' •
8
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
86
From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine. The odor of some .flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in .
composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as
Hence
camphor, turpentine, rosemary.
we may presume
that chemistry will sooner or later
many
produce one from the other, for with
merely an atom of water or
it
is
atom of oxygen that It'would .be a grand thing to causes the difference. produce otto Of roses from oil of rosemary, or from the rose geranium bility.
The tains a
of the
oil,
an.
and theory indicates
•
essential oil of
almonds
a
in
oil,
little
spontaneously passes into another odori*
is
form over the dry parts of the
natural illustration of this idea. for
bottle that con-
gopd deal of air-oxygen, and but a very
ferous body,- benzoin acid.; which to
possi-
its
-
'flask.
its
which similarity
This
is
a
In giving the recipe
“sweet pea” a£ above, we form
pression that
seen in crystal?
it
with the im-
odor resembles the orange-blossom, is
approached- nearer by the addition,
of the rose and tuberose.
The
vanilla
is
used merely to give permanenoe to
the scent on the handkerchief, and this latter
body
is
chosen in preference to extract of musk or ambergris, which' wonld answer the
same purpose of giving
per-
Digitized by
— /
PINE- APPLE.
manence
87
to the more volatile ingredients
because
;
the vanilla strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve
new
as the orange-blossom, and thus no
different scent is brought about as the off
from the handkerchief.
When
idea of a
perfume dies
perfumes are not
mixed upon this principle, then we hear that such and -sijch a perfume becomes “ sifckly” or “ faint” after they
have been on the 'handkerchief a short
time.
•
.
Both
Pine-apple.
-Dr.
with regard fumery..
.
Hoffman and Dr. Lyon
Playfair.have fallen into some error
in’ their
inferences
odor in per-
to the application of this
After various practical experiments con-
ducted in a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that
when
it
cannot be so applied, simply because
the essence of pine-apple
is
smelled
vapor produces an involuntary actiop producing cough, when exceedingly the infinitesimal portions
it still
.of
at,
dilute.
Even
is
expected
if used*
upon a handkerchief,
lowed by intense headache.
in
produces disagreeable-
irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged,
as
the
the larynx,
is
such fol-
It is obvious, therefore,
that the legitimate -use of the essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with hcnefit to the
manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the What we have confectioner as a flavoring material. here said refers to the
artificial
essence of pine-apple,
or butyrate of ethyloxidc, which, if very
much
diluted
with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and
hence
its
nam#
;
but how far the same observations
are applicable to the true essential
oil
from the
fruit
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
88
or epidermis of the pine-apple, retrains to be seen
when we procure are now coming
As
it.
the
West Indian pine-apples day
freely into the market, the
is
probably not distant when demonstrative experiments can be tried
but hitherto
;
must he remembered
it
our experiments have only been performed with a
body reseyibling in smell the fruit. The human body
true*essential oil of the
physical ‘action of is
upon the
ethers
all
quite sufficient to prevent their appli-
cation in perfumery, however useful in confectionary,
whjch
it
cial
understood has to deal with another of
is
—not
of smell, but of taste. The commer“ essence of pine-apple,” or “ pine-apple oil,”
the senses,
and “jargonelle
pear-oil,” are admitted only to be
such, but really- are
labelled
organic acid
certain
For the present, then, perfumers must only look. on these bodies as so many lines in the “Poetry ethers.
.
of Science,” which, for the present, are without practical application in his art.
Pink.
t>j.antlms •CaryophyUus.
—
T-he clove pink
emits a most fragrant odor, “ especially at night,”
says Darwin. “
'
,
is
Die
•
lavish pink that scents the garden -round,”
*
not, however, at present a^plied;in perfumery, ex-
cept in name. /
.
Esprit
“
“ “
Imitation Essence of Clove Pink.
rosp,.
.
.
fleuf^d’orange,
“
de
.,
.
.
caksie,'
vanilla,
Oil of'cloves,
.
•
•
.
.
.
.
*
.
; .
* .
.
.
.
.
.
...
•>
•
. ’.
.
.
’
i pint. “ J
“
.
i
.
2 oz.
.10
drops.
Digitized by
—
—
;
89
ROSE.
remarkable how very much
It is
this
mixture re-
sembles the odor of -the flower, and the public never
doubt
its
being the “ real thing.”
Rhodium.
—When
rose-wood, the lignum of the
Convolvulus scoparius, oil is
distilled,
is
a sweet-smelling
procured, resembling in some slight degree the
fragrance of the rose, and hence time, that
is,
its
At one
name.
prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf
geranium, the
distillate^
the root of the
.
from rose-wood and from
Genista canarimsis (Canary-rose-
wood), were principally drawn for the adulteration of reaJ otto of roses, but as the geranium
much
so
disuse,
better, the oil of
hence
its
oil
rhodium has
comparative scarcity in the market
at the present day, though our grandfather's well.
One
answers
fallen into
wood
cwt. of
knew
it
yields about three ounces of
oil.
Ground rose-wood
is
valuable as a basis in the
manufacture of sachet powders for perfuming the wardrobe.
The French have given the 'name jacaranda
to rose-
wood, under the idea that the plant called jacaranda
•
by the Brazilians yields it, which" is not the ease “ the game word has perhaps been the origin of palisander
—palixander, badly written.”
Rose.
x
Burnett.
.
.
“ Go, crop the gay rose’s vermeil bloom,
And "waft v
its
a sweet perfume,
spoils,
In incense to the skies.” •
Ocii.vie.
*
This queen of the garden loses not
its
diadem
in
8*
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
90
The
the perfuming world.
commonly
of roses, or, as
oil
it
is
called, the otto, or attar, of roses, is pro-
cured (contrary to so
many
statements)
opposite
simply by distilling the roses with water.
The
otto, or attar, of ruse of
commerce
derived
is
from the Rosa centifolia provincidUs. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople (Turkey in Europe)
;
Broussa,
at
now famous
as the residence
and at Uslak (Turkey at'Ghazepore, jn India.
of Abd-el-Kader ; algo .
The
cultivators in
in Asia);
Turkey are principally the Chris-
tian inhabitants of the ‘low countries of the Balkan,
between Selimno and Carloya, as far as Philippopolis, in Bulgaria,' about
good seasons,
200 miles from Constantinople. 76,000 ounces
this district yields
;
In but
in bacLseasons only 20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar
are obtained.
2000 rose
It
is
estimated that
bloonjs to yield one
The* otto slightly Varies districts
;
many
it
requires at least
drachm of
in
otto.
odor from
different
places furnish an otto which solidifies
more readily than
others, and, therefore,- this
a sure guide of purity, though
many
consider
is
it
not
such.
That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1861, as “ from Ghazepore,” in India, obtained the prize. “ Attar of roses, to
any other
;
well as beauty. is
made
in
Cashmere,
is
considered superior
a circumstance not surprising,
Hugql, the flower
is
A
as,
according to
here produced of surpassing fragrance as
large quantity of rose-water twice distilled
allowed to run off into an open vesSet, placed over night in a
Cool running stream, and in the morning the oil
is
found
ing on the Surface in minute specks, which are taken
off
float-
very
91
ROSE.
means of a blade of
carefully by
a dark green
color,
apd as hard as
resin, itot
a temperature about that of boiling wateV.
600 pounds’ weight of leaves is required to Indian Encyclopedia.
of the attar .” '
—
Pure otto of
not
many
from
roses,
when
admirers,;
nothing to equal
When
sword-lily.
its
it is
of
becoming liquid at Between 5Q0 and produce one ounce
cloying sweetness, has
diluted, however, there is
in odor, especially if
it
cool
mixed
in
soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the
The
esprit de rose.
"Soap not allowing the
we cannot be
to evaporate very, fast, .
the .smell of the otto.
The
surfeited with
•
* ,
finest preparation of rose as
an odor
Here the
flowers
Qrasse, in France.
at
perfume
is
made
are not
treated for the otto, but are subjected to the process
of maceration
in- fat,
or in
oil,
as described under
jasmine, heliotrope, &c.
The say 8
rose
lbs.
pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, Pomade to one gallon of spirit,
of No. 24
yields ait esprit de rose of the first or’der, very superior to that which
is
made by
the addition of otto to spirit.
It is difficult to account for this difference, but sufficiently characteristic
to
form a
distinct
it
is
odor.
See the article on fleur d’orange and neroli (pp, 77, 78), which hav6 similar 'qualities, previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French '
rose popiade
is
never sold retail by the perfumer
;
he
reserves this to form part of his recherche bouquets.
Some selling
for
it
them
wholesale
now to
for
dri/ggists
some time
haVe,
however, been
to country practitioners,
form extemporaneous rose-water, which
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
92 it
Roses are cultivated to
does to great perfection.
a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, perfumers’
for
season
when
use,
make
to,
In the
rose-water.
successive crops can be got, which
is
about the end of June, or the early part of July,
they are gathered as soon as the dew to
town
in sacks.
When
is off,
they arrive, *they are im-
mediately' spread out upon a cool floor left in
and sent
:
otherwise, if
a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or
three hours, as to be quite spoiled.
There
po
is
organic matter which so rapidly absorbs oxygen, and
becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered roses.
To preserve
•
these roses, the
immediately pickle them
;
London perfumers
for this purpose, the leaves
are separated from the stalks, and to every bushel of
pound The salt
flowers, equal to about six pounds’ weight, one
of
common
salt is
thoroughly rubbed
in.
absorbs the water existing in the petals, tind rapidly
becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way
keep almost any length of time, without A good rosewater can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of 'pickled “ Draw” off two roses, and 2£ gallons of water. they
will
the fragrance being seriously injured.
gallons; the product will be the double-distilled rose-
water of the shops.
The rose-water
from the South of France in odor to
is,
that
is
any that can be produced here.
a residuary product of the procuring the attar,
it
imported
however, very superior"
As
it is
distillation of roses for
has a richness of aroma which
Digitized by
—
93
ROSE.
appears to be inimitable with English-grown roses.
There are four
ipodifications of essence of rose for
the handkerchief, which are the ne plus ultra of the
They
perfumer’s art.
are,
essence of white of roses,
The
essence of mosi rose. for their formation
—esprit
de rose
triple,
of tea rose, and
lesseiice
following are the recipes
:
"Esprit de Rose' Triple. Rectified alcohol,
Otto of
Mix
at a
rose,"
1
.
.
summer heat
.
;
.
.
a quarter of
in the course of
an hour the whole of the otto ready for bottling and
dissolved,
is
and
is
then
In the winter soason
sale.
beautiful crystals of the otto
gallon.
3 oz.
.
—
if it is
good
—appear
disseminated through the esprit. Essence of Moss Rose. Spirituous extract from French Rose
Esprit de tose triple,
.
pomatum,
:
“
musk,
Allow the ingredients night
;
then
filter,
’
.
.
to
pint.
“
1
.
.....
i
quart.
1
.1
.
Extracts fleur d orange pomatum, “ ' of ambergris,
“
i
4
oz.
remain together for a
and
if requisite,
it
fort-
ready for
is
sale.
IJssENqE of
White Rose.
Esprit de rose from pomatum, “ u ." triple, .
“
violette,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.1
.
\
1
.
.
1
Extracts of jasmine,
“
patchouly,
quart.
“
1 pint. .
“ .
.
•
i
Digitized by
—
"
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY. Essence of Tea Rose Esprit de rose pomade,
“
“
*
triple,
1 pint.
u
i .
orris,
N
“
1
neroli,
(i
«:Hr!
“
1
.
Extract of rose-lenf gernnium, “ , sandal-wood,
“ •Ti
i
“
i
“
Rosemary. u There's rosemary, that’s for remembrance.” u-.
Shakspeare.
•
»»•
*
By distilling otto
Rosmarinus
the
officinalis
a thin limpid
procured, having the characteristic odor of
is
the plant, which
*K
One
more aromatic than sweet.
is
A..
the
of
cwt.
herb yields about twenty-four
fresh
’T
ounces of
Otto of rosemary
oil.
used in perfumery, especially KfV
other
scenting
for
ottos
cannot be made without
“ Hungary water” following
is
it is
in.
soap. it,
is
very extensively
combination with
Eau de Cologne
and in the once famous Ut
The
the leading ingredient.
the composition of
Hungary Water. Rectified alcohol,
1 gallon.
.
Otto of English rosemary,
2 oz,
“
lemon-peel,
1 oz.
“
balm
1 oz.
“
mint,
(Melissa),
.
»(
i drachm.
Esprit de rose,
.
.
.
Extract of fleur d’orange,
1
pint.
1
«
»l
ti
4 It
is
put ,up for sale in a similar
Cologne, and
J
is
said to take its
way
to eau
name from one
de
I
of the
Digitized by
In
1*
SAOE
— SANTAL.
queens of Hungary, who
is
95
reported, to have derived
great benefit from a bath containing seventy-five years.
men
There
at the age of
it,
no doubt- that clergy-
is
and orators, while speaking
for
any
time,
would
derive great benefit from perfuming their handker-
chief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the
rosemary they contain excites the mind
to vigorous
action, sufficient of the stimulant being inhaled
by
occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief
wetted with these “ waters.”
Shakspeare giving us
the key, we can understand how
it
is
that such per-
fumes containing rosemary are universally said to bo
“ so
refreshing
Sage.
by
!”
—A powerful-scenting
distillation
used, but
is
otto can be procured
from any of the Salviece.
It is rarfely
nevertheless very valuable in combination
for scenting soap.
Dried sage-leaves, ground,
will
compound
well for
sachets.
Santal. “
This
is
—Santalum album. The santal tree perfumes, when The axe that laid it low.”
riven,
Cameron.
ah old favorite with the lovers of scent
;
it
the wood that possesses the odor. The finest santalwood grows ii\ the island of Timor, and the Santalwood Islands, where it 'is extensively cultivated for is
the Chinese market.
In the religious /Ceremonies of
the Brahmins, Hindoos, and Chinese, santal-wood
is
way of incense, to an extent almost beyond The Santala grew plentifully in China, but
burned, by belief.
Digitized by
j
Googl
;;
THK ART OF PERFUMERY.
96
the continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost
exterminated the plant from the Celestial Empire
and suoh is the demand, that it is about to be cultivated in Western Australia in the expectation of a profitable return, which we doubt not -will be realized; $
England alpne woald consume tenfold the quantity
it
Smtai-wood.
does were
its
price within the range of other perfum-
ing substances.
wood
is
The
otto
which
exists in the santal-
readily procured by distillation
good wobd
;
1 cwt, of
will yield about -36 ounces of otto.
The white
ant,
which
is
so
common
in India
China, eating into every organic matter that across, appears to
hence
it is
it
and
comes
have no relish for santal-wood
frequently
made
into caskets, jewel-boxes,
Digitized by
I
97
SANTAL. This quality, together with
deed-cases, &c.
grance, renders
its
fra-
a valuable article to the cabinet-
it
makers of the East.
The
otto of santal
remarkably dense, and
is
good,
is
When
of a dark straw color.
spirit, it enters into the*
is
appe'arance, and,
all others oleaginous in its
above
when
dissolved in
composition of a great
many
of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as “Marechale,”
and
others, the formulae of
which
will
Perfumers thus make what
after.
is
be given here-
called
•
Extrait de Boib de Saktai,. Rectified spirits,
.
...
.
Esprit de rose, Essential
oil,
i. e.
.
.
otto,
All those Extracts,
of santal,
.
made by
.
.7 pints. .1 pint. .
3 oz.
dissolving the otto in
alcohol, are nearly white,' or at least only slightly
by the color of the
tinted
oil
used.
When
a perfumer
has to impart a delicate odeur to a lady’s mouchoir,
which in some instances costs “no end of money,”
and
is
an object, at any
cost, to retain
behooves his reputation to
sell
an
unsullied,
it
article that will not
Now, when a perfume manner from any wood or herb, as
stain a delicate white fabric. is
made
in a direct
tinctures are
there
is
made, that
is,
by infusion
in
alcohol,
-
obtained, besides the odoriferous substance, a
solution of cbloring
and extractive matter, which
exceedingly, detrimental
to
its
fragrance,
is
besides
any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon and for this reason this latter seriously staining
;
-
9
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
98
method should never be adopted, except silk
upon
for use
handkerchiefs.
The odor
of aantal assimilates well with rose
and
;
hence, prior to the cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it
was used
to adulterate otto of roses
but
;
now but
is
seldom used for that purpose.
By
a “phonetic” error, santal
often printed
is
“sandal,” and “ sandel.”
Sassafras.
—Some
use a tincture of the
Germany
of the perfumers of
wood of the Laurus sassafras
in
the manufacture of hair-washes and other nostrums
but
our opinion,
as, in
;
has rather a “ physicky”
It
we cannot recommend the German The Eau Athcnienne notwithstanding, has
smell than flowery, recipes.
,
some reputation as a hair-water, but Spike.
—French
oil
of layender, which
from the Lavandula spica spike.
is little
,
else
than
*
a weak tincture of sassafras.
is
is
procured
generally called
of
oil
(See Lavender.)
Storax and Tolu are used in perfumery in the same way as benzoin, namely, -by solution in spirit as
An
a tincture.
ounce of tincture of storax,
or
tolu,
benzoin, being added to a pound of any very volatile
perfume, gives a degree of permanence to
makes
it
last longer
wise would
:
thus,
on the handkerchief than
when any perfume
solution of an otto in spirit,
it is
is
small portion of a.substanco which
is
as extract of musk,
vanilla,
turer using his
extract of
judgment and
other-
usual to add to less volatile,
storax, tolu, orris, vitivert, or benzoin
;
and
it, it
made by
the it
a
such
ambergris,
the manufac-
discretion as to which of
Digitized
by
99
SYRINGA. these materials
are
to
be employed, choosing, of
course, those which are most compatible with the odor
he
making.
is
The power which
these bodies have of “fixing” a
volatile substance, renders
them valuable
to the per-
fumer, independent of their aroma, which
many
is
cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified
esential oil peculiar to each substance,
due in
by an
and which
is
taken up by the alcohol, togothe'r with a portion of
When
resin.
chief, the
the perfume
most
is
put upon a handker-
volatile bodies disappear first: thus,
after the alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos
appear stronger ottos are
;
if it
contains any resinous body, the
held in solution, as
it
were,
by the
resin,
and thus retained on the
fabric.
olfactory nerve, if tutored,
w ill detect its composition, itself, no two ottos
Supposing a perfume to be made of otto only, without any “ fixing” “ perfume substance, then, as the dies away,” the for
spontaneously analyzes
it
having the same volatility
:
thus,
and patchouly
rose, jasmine,
‘
make
a mixture of
the jasmine predomi-
nates
first,
then the rose, and, lastly, the patchouly,
which
will
be found hours after the others have dis-
appeared.
Syringa.
—The
flowers of the Philadclphus coro-
common garden
narius, or
syringa, have an intense
odor resembling the orange-blossom thht in America
orange.”
made
.
A
surfin,
of Cannes,
;
so
much so, mock
often termed “
is
great deal of the
a is
the plant
pomatum sold as pomby the manufacturers
la fleur d’ orange,
nothing more than fine suet perfumed
Digitized
by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
100 â&#x20AC;˘with
syringa blossoms by- the maceration process.
Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost pf what
is
paid for the so-called
orange pomatum.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Thyme. All the different species of th^me, but more particularly the lemon thyme, the Thymus sert
pyllum, as well as the marjorams, origanum, &e., yield
by
distillation fragrant otto?, that are exten-
sively used
by manufacturing perfumers
for scenting
soaps; though wel{ adapted for this purpose, they
do not answer at
Both
all
in
any other
combinations.
in grease and' in spirit all these ottos impart
an
herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a consequence, they are
not considered
rechercht,. t
When
any of these herbs are dried and ground,
they usefully .enter into the composition of sachet powders.
TonquiN, or Tonka.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The
seeds of the Dipterix
odorata are the tonquin or coumarouma beans of
commerce.
When
fresh they are exceedingly fra-
made hay. The Anthoxanthuni odoratum, or sweet-swelling vernal grass, to which new hay owes its odor, probably grant, having an intense, odor of newly
yields identically the is
same fragrant
principle,
and
it
remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal
grass,
while actually growing, are nearly scentless,
but become rapidly aromatic when severed from the parent stock.
Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very teresting, containing,
when
in-
fresh, a fragrant volatile
f
Digitized by
—
TONQUIN. otto (to which their odor acid, a fat oil
is
101
principally due), benzoic
and a neutral principal
In perfumery they are valuable,
as,
Coumarin.
when ground,
they form-with other bodies an excellent and perma-
"
Tonquin.
nent sachet, and by infusion in
spirit,
the tincture or
extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the compound essences but on account of- its great strength it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is “ snuffy,” owing to the predominance ;
.
of the odor and those
its
who indulge l
well-known use in the boxes of
in -the titillating dust. •
•
t
Extract of Tonquin. *
•
>
Tonquin beans, Rectified spirit,
1 lb. 1
.
\
..
.
,.
.
.1
gallon.
Even after this maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as Pot Pourri, Digest for a month at a summer heat.
y*
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
102
Olla Podrida,
&c.
The extract of tonquin,
extract of orris and extract of vanilla, pure, but
is
}ike
never sold
only used in the manufacture of com-
is
pound perfumes. * It is the leading ingredient in Bouquet du Champ The field Bouquet the great
—
—
resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders
it
a favorite to the’ lovers of the pastoral.
Tuberose.
— One of the most exquisite odors with
which we are acquainted
is
obtained by enfleurage
from the tuberose
It
is,
flower.
as
and reminds one of that
in itself,
it
were, a nosegay
perfume
delightful
observed in a well-stocked flowerrgarden at evening close
consequently
;
much
it is
in
demand by
the per-
fumers for compounding sweet essences. %
Extract or Tuberose.
Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very
to be
fine, is
month
at
summer
it is fit
to
draw
wool,
is
placed into 1 gallon of the best
After standing for three weeks or a
rectified spirit.
heat,
off,
and with frequent
agitation,
and being strained through cotton
ready either for -sale or use in the manufacr
ture of bouquets.
This essence of tuberosCj like that of jasmine,
exceedingly volatile, and if sold in quickly “ flies off” the handkerchief ;
its
is
pure state
-
it is
therefore
necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this
purpose
\
it is
best
to-
use one ounce of extract of orris,
or half an ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint
of tuberose.
Vanilla.
' •
—The pod or bean of
•
the Vanilla plani-
Digitized by
103
VANILLA. folia yields a perfume of rare excellence.
good, and
if
kept for some time,
it
When
-becomes covered
with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing
Vanilla.
properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it
Few
in composition.
look upon than this,
objects are more beautiful to when viewed by a microscope
with the aid of polarized
light.
Extract of Vakilla. Vanilla pods,
â&#x20AC;˘
Rectified spirit,
Slit the
.
pods from end
interior, then
.
to end, so as to lay
cut them
up
in
J lb. 1 gallon.
open the
lengths of about a
quarter of an inch, macerate withâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; occasional agitation for about a
month ; the
tincture jthus formed will only
require straining through cotton to be ready for
use that
is
required.
for a perfume, but
is
In
this state
consumed
it is
in the
any
rarely sold
manufacture
Digitized by
—
.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
104
of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called.
Extract of Vanilla
also used
is
the
largely in
manufacture of hair-washes, which are readily made
by mixing the extract of
vanilla with either
orange, elder, or rosemary water, and
rose,
afterwards
filtering.
We
need scarcely mention, that vanilla
is
greatly
used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring.
Verbena,
The scented
Vervaine.
or
species of
lemon verbena, Aloyaia citriodora
plant, the
this
(Hooker), gives one of the finest perfumes with which
we
are acquainted
;
delightful fragrance
it is well known as yielding a by merely drawing the hand over
the plant ; some of the
little vessels
or sacks containing
the otto must be crushed in this act, as there or no odor
The
by merely smelling
otto,
is little
at the plant.
which can be extracted from the leaves
by
distillation with water,
on account of
is
scarcely, if ever, used
by the manufacturing per-
fumer, but
it is
high price,
most successfully imitated by mixing
the otto of lemon grass,
with rectified
its
Andropogon schoenanthus,
the odor of- which resembles the
spirit,
former to a nicety.
The following
a good form for
is
making the
V
Extract of Verbena. *
*
Rectified spirit,
“
lemon
“
orange
»
.
Otto of leniOn grass, peel, peel,
• .
1 .
.
-
•.
.
.1
.
,
* .
.
.
.
.
.
pint.
.
.
3 drachms.
.
.
2 oz.
.
i oz.
'
’
Digitized by
VERBENA.
105
After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is
fit
for sale.
Another mixture of
kind,
this
presumed by the
made from the same
public to be finer quality,
is
composed thus
—
but of a
plant,
it is
sold under the
title
Extkait de Veryeike.
.
Rectified spirit,
1 pint.
Otto of orauge peel,
lemon ,
u
1
peel,
oz.
2 oz.-
drachm.
citron,
1
lemon grass,
2i drachma
u .
’
Extrait de fleur d'orange, .. “ “ , tubereuse,
7 oz.
Esprit de rose,
$ pint.
This mixture
is
exceedingly refreshing, and
the most elegant white,
when
7 ot.
;
.
perfumes that
is
made.
does not stain the handkerchief.
it
by age the
sold fresh made, as
is
one of
Being It is best
citrine oils
*
and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say “ it is sour.” The vervaine
oxidize,
thus prepared enters into the composition of a great
many the
of the favorite bouquets that are sold under
title
“ Court Bouquet,” and others which are
mixtures of
violet,
rose,
and jasmine, with verbena
or vervaine in different pr.oportions.
EaO de
parations, as also in
where any of the product in
is
In these pre-
Portugal, and in fact
citrine ottos are used, a
preference to, the English corn spirit
for them.
French
much
finer
obtained by using grape spirit or brandy
Nor do they
spirit as in
English. >
.as
a solvent
deteriorate so quickly in
Whether
this be
due
„
Digitized by
—
:
106
ART OF PERFUMERY.
TIIE
to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or not
say, but think
we
catinot
*
it is so.
Violet. u The forward
Sweet
violet thus did I chide
whence
thief,
If not from
my
didst thou steal thy sweet that smells,
love’s breath ?” v
The perfume exhaled by the Viola odorata versally admired, that to speak in
more than of violets”
superfluous. is
its
the
so uni-
“ essence
far greater than the manufacturing per-
fumers are at present able to supply, sequence,
is
favor would be
The demand .for
it is difficult
to
arid as
a con-
procure the genuine article
through the ordinary sources .of trade.
Real
violet
is,
however, sold by
perfumers of the West that prohibits
its
End
many
of the retail
of London, but at a price
use except by the affluent or extra-
The 'violet farms from to make this perfume
vagant votaries of fashion.
whence the flowers are procured are very extensive
.at
Nice and Grasse, also in the
neighborhood of Florence.
The
true smelling prin-
ciple or otto of violets has never yet
been isolated
:
a
very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with the idear of the presence of hy-
drocyanic acid, which
is
probably a true impression.
Burnett says that the plant Viola tricolor (heart’s ease),
when
bruised, smells like peach kernels,
and
doubtless, therefore, contains prussic acid.
The
flowers of the heart’s ease are scentless, but -
the plant evidently contains
a principle which
other species of the Viola,
is
eliminated as
in
the
Digitized by
107
VIOLET.
“sweet that smells” so beautifully alluded
by
to
Shakspcare.
For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet procured in combination with
is
spirit, oil, or suet, pre-
methods previously described aroma of some other flowers before
cisely .according to the
for obtaining the
mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, orange-
by maceration, or by enjlcurage, the
flower, namely,
former method being principally .adopted, followed by, when “ essence” is required, digesting the pomade 1
in rectified alcohol. '
Good
?
essence* of violets, thus made*,
of a beau-
is
green color, and, though of .a rich deep
tiful
no power to stain a white fabric, and
its
has
tint,
Odor
is
per-
fectly natural.
The essence
rtf
violet, as
prepared for
retail sale, is
thus made, according to the quality and strength of the
pomade
:
— Take from
pomade, chop
violet
six to eight
up
it
pounds of the
and place
fine,
gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel
allow
spirit,
then strain
it
to digest for three weeks or a month,
the essence, and to every pint thereof
ounces of esprit de cassie
We
;
it is
fit
and three
for sale.
have often seen displayed for sale in drug-
them inferring the con-
tents to be “ Extract of Violet tajcen in” are
A
orris root,
then
shops plain tincture of orris root, done up in
nice bottles,* with labels upon
“
one
off
add three ounces of tincture of
gists’
It into
pil) rectified
customers thus once
hot likely to be so a second time.
good Imitation Essence of Violets
prepared thus
—
•
is
best
•
Digitized by
108
TIIE
ART OF PERFUMERY.
Spirituous extract of eassie pomade,
.
.
1
.
.
i
....
Esprit de rose, from pomade,
Tincture of orris,
.....
Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade,
Otta of almonds,
After it is
filtration it is
fit
.
“
“
.
i
•
•
i
.
.
3 drops.
In
for bottling.
pint.
*
this mixture,
the extract of cassie which has the leading smell,
but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very
much
Moreover,
like the violpt;
like the extract of violet
the judgment
the sense of smell.
;
it
has a green color,
ami as the eye influences
Sense of taste, so
liy tire
it
does. with
Extract of violet enters largely
into the composition of several' of the most popular
bouquets, such as extract, of spring flowers and
many
others.
Vjtivert, or Kus-Kus,
the rhizome of an Indian
In the neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the
grass. city,
is
this material
has an extensive
use by being
manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sun-shades,
During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the. atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the .odoriferous* principle of called Tatty.
;
the vitivert.
It has a smell
between the aromatic or
spicy odor and that of flowers
can be admitted. that
it
We
—
classify
has any odor resembling
it
such a .distinction
if
with orris root, not
it,
but beeause
it
a like effect in use in perfumeiy, and because
prepared Rs a tincture for obtaining
About four pounds of the dried
its
has it is
odor.
vitivfert,
as
it is
Digitized by
109
VITIVEKT.
imported, being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, produces-the
.Essence of Vitivert of the shops. it is
In this state
rarely used as a perfume, although
it is
occasion-
Vitivert.
by those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in' “ the Eastern clime.” The extract, essence, or tincture bf ally asked for
vitivert, enters into the
composition of several of the
much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as “ Mousselaine dea Indies ,” for which preparation
M. Dcl-
croix, in the zenith of his fame, created quite a furor in the fashionable world. ,
Essence of vitivert
is
also mftde
by dissolving 2
of otto of vitivert in 1 gallon of spirit tion
is
oz.
this prepara-
;
stronger than -the tincture, as above.
Marechale and Bouquet du Roi, perfumes which have also “had their day,” owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivejrt
Bundles of
oOntained in them.
vltiverfenre sold for
perfuming linen and
preventing moth, and, when ground,
is
used to ilianu-
facture certain sachet powders.
Otto of vitivert
is
procurable by distillation
;
a hun-
dred-weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, 10
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
110
which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in tho museum at
Kew. Volkameria.
—An exquisite perfume
is
sold under
name, presumed, of course, to be derived from Whether it has the Volkameria inermis (Lindley). a smell resembling the flower of that plant, or whether
this
the plant blooms at
all,
we
are unable to say.
a native of India, *and seems to be
little
gardens of this country
in the botanic
;
It is
known even however, the
plant has a name, and that’s eneugh for the versatile Parisian
perfumer,
and
if
the
mixture he. makes
“takes” with the faSkionable,world Christens
it
has a
fine
—the plant which
perfume for a certainty
!
Essence of Volkameria. Esprit de violctte, tubereuse,
jasmine,
u
rose,
.
v
Essence do muse,
Wallflower it
might
it is
direct
“
•
i
“
.
i
«
.
2 oz.
be,
the
is
not used in perfumery, though
and vpry successfully
the plant cultivated for that. purpose.'
we would
.*1
(Cherianthus).— Exquisite as
odor of this flower,
no doubt
1 pint.
._
“ “
particular
attention,
To as
too,
were
this flow'er
one well
adapted for experiments.to. obtain jts odoriferous principle in this country,
production.
bur climate being good for
The mode
for obtaining
its
its
odor has
been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page GO.
And
if it
answers on .the small scale, there
is
doubt of success in the large way, and there
little is
no
Digitized by
—
WINTER GREEN.
Ill
fear but that the scent of the eld English wallflower will
meet with a demand.
An
Imitation Essence of Wallflower can be
compounded thus
:
1 pint.
Extract fleur d’orange, vanilla,
Esprit de rose,
Extract of
orris,
“
*
.
.
cassie,
1
“
4
“ “
i
5 drops.
Essential' oil of almonds,
Allow this mixture to be made up for two or ihree weeks jyior to putting it up for sale. Winter Green ( Trientalis Euxopcea).—k perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant it is principally consumed in the per:
Upon
fuming .of soaps.
this odorous plant a is
the strength of the
name
of
very nice handkerchief perfume
made. Iceland Winter Green. Esprit de rose,
.
'
“ “ “
vitivert, •
1 pint.
.
Essence of lavender, Extract of neroli, “ vanilla,
.
i
“
.
4
i
“ “
, •
i
“
cassie,
.
4
“
ambergris,
*
i
“
We.have now
described
all
the important odorifer-
ous bodies .which are used by the manufacturing per-
fumer, as derive/l from the botanic kingdpm
;
it
may
be understood that where an odoriferous material
is
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
112 unnoticed,
has no qualities peculiar enough to be
it
remarked on, and that the methods
adopted for
preparing
oil,
essence, extract, water, or
its
are ana-
logous to those that have been already noticed, that is,
by the processes of maceration, absorption or en,
Jlcurage for flowers, by tincturation for roots, and by distillation for seeds, modified
under certain circum-
stances.
There
are, however, three other important deriva-
odors—-ambergris,
tive
civet,
and musk
— which, being
from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order,
whole matter
less
refdr to them. indefinite
may
is
it
considered, to render the
confused to manufacturers who
Ammonia and
.
may an
acetic acid, holding
we have laid, down, much criticism, being
position in the order
also come in here without
considered as primitive odors.
On
terminating our remarks relating to the simple
wo
preparations of the odors of plants, and before
speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those
compound odors
may
nosegays, &c.,
sold, as bbuqudts,
it
probably be interesting to give a few- facts and
statistics,
showing the consumption,
in
England, of
the several substances previously named. Quantities of Essential Oils, ok Ottos, paying
Pound Duty, entered for Home Consumption
in
per
Is.
the Year
1852. *
• ,
Otto of bergampt, “ caraway, “ cassia,
“
cloves,
.
'
.
-
lbs.
.
.
»
.
.
.
.
.
28,571
'.
3,602
'
.
.
•
(1,163
595
Digitized by
;;
DUTY ON ESSENTIAL
113
OILS.
lbs.
Otto of lavender, “ lemon, . “
peppermint,
“
roses,
“
spearmint,
“ “
•
•
•
67,348 16,059
.
.
.
•
.
citronclla,
)
‘
47,380
>
.
other ottos not otherwise described, •
163
.
11,418 ’
“
*
.
lemon grass,
And
12,776
«
•
•
1,268
thyme,
•
•
)
\*
Total essential
oils or ottos'
imported in one year,
195,346
at the duty of la. per pound, yield a revenue annually
ofD,766Z. 16a.
*.
would appear by the above return that our con-
It
sumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small whereas fact
is,
it
very large
room
is
The
probably ten times that amount.
several of the English, wholesale druggists are distillers
for the- sale
of this otto, leaving
little
and importation of foreign
or no
distilled
Again, otto of caraway, the English
otto of cloves.
production of that article also, otto of lavender,
is
quite equal to the foreign
which
is
drawn
in this country
probably to the extent of GOOOlbs. annually.
There were also passed through the Oustom House for
home consumption,
in 1852-^-
Pomaturns, procured by epfleurage, maceration, &c.,
commonly called “ French Pomatums,”
average value of
a duty of
•
Is.
6s.
per pound, and pacing
per pound, valued by the im-
Perfumery not otherwise described
-
£1,306
porters at ;
value
.
£1,920
Digitized by
TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.
114
Number of bottles a duty of
Is.
of enu de Cologne, paying
each,*
.
19,777
.
.
.
f
Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of
= 8,000Z.
England, say 20,000 flacons at 8 d.
annu-
ally.
The
revenue derived from various sources,
total
even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which “ Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief,” cannot be estimated
annum. spirits
at less thah 40,000Z. per
This,~of eburse, includes the duty upon the
used
homC''manufacture of perfumery.
in the
SECTION '
•
.IV.
.
PERFUMES' OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.
-
•
V
In the previous
articles
now
odors of plants; we
used
in'
we have only spoken of the
enter upon those materials
perfumery of an animal
under our notice is—'.
Ambergris.
— This
Madagascar
.
substance
floating near the islands
of -Sumatra, Molucca,
also on the coasts of
•
often found to yield large pieces of
is
The shores of the
* The dul/on eau de .Cologne per flacon of 4
osfc,
and
The western
counties of Sligo,
Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, are the
Bd.
'
America, Brazil,
.
coast of Ireland
first *
.
fgund in the sea,
is
China, Japan, and the Coromandel.
this substance..
The
origin.
.
or
is
now, according
20 s. per go
I
to
principal
the
last tariff,
Ion,
Digitized by
AMBERGRIS. places where
it
115
has been Found.
phical Transactions” there
the- “ Philoso-
In.
an account of a lump
is
found on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was bought
on the spot for
London
for
but which afterwards was sold in
20/.,
more than 100/.
We
p. 509).
(Philos. Trans.
many volume? concerning
the origin of ambergris have
been written, but the question respecting
it is- still
at
found in the stomqchs of the most vora-
It is
issue.
No. 227,
are quite within limit in stating that
cious fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they
happen
been particularly found
to
meet with.
It has
in the intestines of the sper-
maceti whale, and most commonly in sickly
whence
suppose^ to be the cause or
it is
fish,
effect of the
disease.
Some
and among them Robert Boyle, conbe bf vegetable production, and analogous amber ; hence its name amber-^m (gray) gray
sider to
it
authors,
to
amber. this its
It
work
is
not, however, within
explained
bur modern appliances were brought to
if
bear upon the subject. scientific enthusiast it,
the province of
upon the various theories about
to discuss
production, which could probably be satisfactorily
all
;
The
field
to any who mention
open
is
recent authors
merely quoting the facts known more than a cen-
tury ago.
A “ It
.
'
*
•
_
modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, Neyer having smells like dried cow-dung.’* ,
-
sjnelled this latter substance,
the simile be correct
;
we cannot say whether
but we certainly consider that
Digitized
by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
116 its
perfume
forget that
is
most incredibly overrated nor can we found that “ a vessel in which ;
Homberg
he had made a long digestion of the human fseces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris,-
.
insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quantity of essence of ambergris had been.made in
(odor /) was so strong that the
The perfume
it.
vessel was- obliged .to be
tory.”
_
(Mem. Acad.
moved out of
Nevertheless, as ambergris-
perfume, in deference
we presume
that
it
Like bodies of position
the labora-
Paris, 1711.) is
to those
has to
extensively used as a
who admire
many an
odor,
its
agreeable smell.
kind undergoing a slow decom-
this
and possessing
volatility,
little
when
it,
mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them On the handkerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much. Essevge of Ambergris Is only kept for mixing;
sweetened up
when
retailed
to the public nose;
after the Parisian
name
it'
is
it
has to bo
then called
-
Ektrait d’Ambre. Esprit de rose
triple,
*
.
.
.
.
Extract of ambergris,
.
.
.
Essence of musk,
.
.
-
.
•
Extruct,of vanilla,
.
$ pint. 1
“
,
.
J
H
2. ounces.
This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with
an odor even after
it
it,
will still retain
has been washed.
Digitized by
—
117
CIVET.
The
fact
is,
that both
mask and .ambergris
contain
a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal.
Powdered ambergris cassolettes
—
little
is
used in the manufacture of
ivory or bone boxes perforated
which are made, to contain a paste of strongismelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule in the
;
making of peau -d’Espagne, or Spanish
also skin,
used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and
which -will be described .hereafter. Civet.
—This substance
civetta, or civet cat.
is
It is
secreted
by
the Viverra
formed in a large double
Civet Cat.
glandular receptacle between the anus and the puden-
dum
of the creature.
Oriental origin,
it
was
Like,
many other
first
substances of
brought to
this
'
country
by the Dutch.
When
the civet cats are kept in a state of confine-
ment, which at one time was
common
in
Amsterdam,
Digitized by
Googl
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
118
they are placpd in strong cages, so constructed as to
prevent the animal from turning round and biting the person employed in collecting the secreted sub-
This operation
stance.
is
said to be performed twice
done by scraping out the civet with a
a week, and
is
small spoon
about a drachm at a time
A good
:
deal of the civet
markets
is
thus obtained.
is
now brought,
to
European
from Calicut, capital of the province of
Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates. In
its
pure state, civet has, to nearly
a most disgusting odor finitesimal port.on, its difficult
perfume
to ascertain the reason
stance, modified
all
but when diluted
;
is
persons,
-to
an
agreeable..
why
the
in-
It is
same sub-
only by the quantity of matter
presented to the nose, Bhould produce an opposite effect
on the olfactory nerve
with nearly which,
if
all
smelled
cases, positively
at,
fragrance
is
but such
are far from nice,
.nastyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;such
of thyme, otto of patchouly
thousand times
;
is
the case
odorous bodies, especially with ottos,
its
volume of
delightful.
;
and
in
some
as otto of neroli, otto
but
if
diluted with
oil, spirit,
&
&c., then their
-
Otto of rose to many- has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the homoeopathic quantities as
from a single rose-bloom, who admit that â&#x20AC;&#x153;the rose is
best imparted, not
is if
it
rises
that will not
is sweet?â&#x20AC;? The odor of civet by actual contact, but by being
placed in the neighborhood of absorbent' materials.
Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being covered with
silly
and placed
in a writing-desk,"
perfumes the
paper and envelopes delightfully, and so
much
so,
Digitized by
Googl
—
MUSK. thqjt
119
they retain tho odor after passihg througfh the '
post.
-
Extract of Civet
•
•
prepared by rubbing in a
is
mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that
up or divide the civet
to break
;
will assist
and then placing
the whole into a gallon of rectified
spirit's;
after
macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a “ fixing” ingredient; in mixing
dvet more than English manu-
of.
who seem
facturers,
From
The Frehch perfumers
of delicate odor.
essences
use the extract
a quarter of
a.
prefer’ extract
to
pint to -half a’jiint
of
that ought to be mixed with a gallon of
perfume.
Castor its
is"
a secretion of the ^Castor fiber, or beaver,
Though we have
civet.
an animal' secretion
follicles
;
it. is
.*
substance, like civet,
contained in excretory
about the navel of the male animal.
.perfumery trade these
and
as imported
the
musk
which
often heard
being used in perfumery, we do not personally
know that such is the case. Musk. -This extraordinary is
any other
'
very similar to of
musk.
the Utmost
is
it is
is
it
little
is
oalled ‘‘pod
separated from
contained,
In the
bags are called “ pods,”
it is tfcen
musk.”
the skin
or
called “grain
When sack in
musk.”
The musk- deer [Moschua moschatus) is an inhawhich belts the
bitant of the greQt mountain range
north of India, and branches out into
and China. And
it is
also
Siberia-,
Thibet,
found in the Altaic range,
near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges,
Digitized by
.
THg ART or perfumery.
120
but always, on the borders of the line of perpetual snow. is
It is
from the male animal only that the musk '
produced.
»
Musk It formerly
and
is
still
Rod, %ctual, size.
wUs held
so
in
high repute as a medicine,
among Eastern
nations.
from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, that from. Bengal still
[single
•
animal varies with the season
of the year and the age of the animal.
musk pod
The musk
most esteemed,
and from Russia is of The strength and the quantity
lower quality.
produced by a
is
is inferior,
A
single
usually contains from two to three*drachms
Musk
of grain musk.
is
imported into England from
China, in caddies of, from. 50 to 100 ounces each.
When
adulterated with the animal’s blood, which
often the- case,
it
forms into lumps dr clots;
it
is
•.
is*
sometimes also mixed with a dark, friable earth. •
,
Those pods
in
which
little
pieces of lead are dis-
?
covered, as a general rule, yield the finest quality of
musk
;
upon
this rule,
we presume
that the best
musk
Digitized by
GooglJI
MUSK.
121
most worthy of adulteration.
is 'the
Musk
is
re-
markable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of
its
scent
by
;
it,
everything in
its viefinity
and long retains
actual contact with
its
soon becomes affected
odor, although
not in
it.
It is a fashion of
tho present day for people to •
say “that they do not like musk;” but, nevertheless,
from great experience
in
one of the largest
manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that the public taste for
any perfumer it
desires.
musk
is
as great as
Those substances containing
always take the preference in ready sale
— so
long
as the.vcndor takes care to assure his customer “ that
there
is
no musk in
it.”
The Musk
The perfumer uses musk
Deer.
principally in the scent-
ing of soap, sachet powder, apd in mixing for liquid
perfumery.
The
Windsor soap odor.
is
The soap
just reputation of Paris’s original
due, in the main, to is,
its
delightful
doubtless, of the finest quality, 11
•’
Digitized by
—
122 but
TIIE
ART OF PERFUMERY.
perfume stamps
its
grance
The
among
it
owes to musk.
it
the elite
—
its fra-
.
.
alkaline reaction of soap
favorable to the
is
development of the odoriferous principle of musk. If,
however, a strong solution of potass be poitred^n
musk, ammonia
to grain
true
musk
is
developed instead of the -
smell.
*
*
•
Extract ok Mcsk. Grain musk, Rectified
2 oz.
'
spirit,
-1 gallon.-
.
After standing for one month, at a summer temperature,
is fit
it
which
is
to
draw
Such
off.
extract of
musk which
prepared thus
prepared for
is
that
-an extract is
used for mixing in other perfumes.
-
That
retail sale,, is
:
Extrait de Mcsc. Extract of musk (as above),
“
ambergris,
u
rose triple,
Mix and
filter it
;
it is
This preparation
is
musk made According more
..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
1 pint.
“
I .
.
.
then
fit
•
“
$
.
for bottling.
sweeter thafl pure extract of to our first formula,
profitable to the vendor.
and
is
also
It will be -seen here-
after that the original extract of
musk
is
principally
used for a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give
permanence
customers re-
to a volatile odor;
quiring, in a general way, that which
is
namely, that a perfume shall be strong
incompatible, to smell,
t.
e.
Digitized by
jr
.very volatile,
and that
MUSK.
123
shall
remain upon the hand-
it
kerchief for a long period, ergo, not volatile
!
Small
portions of extract of musk, mixed with esprit de rose, violet, tuberose,
and
attain this object; that
others, do, in a measure,
is,.
after the violet, &c., has
evaporated, the handkerchief
still
retains an odor,
which, although not that of the original smell, yetgives satisfaction, because
organ.
# .
.
it is
+
.
pleasant to the nasal
—
—
THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.
124
SECTION
Y.
•
Ammonia.
“Preston
Salts,”
•
Under the
“ Smelling
vaxiou§. titles of
Salts,”
“Inexhaustible
Suits,”
“ Eau do Luce,” “ Sal Volatile,” ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively
consumed
as material for gratifying the olfac-
tory nerve.
The perfumer liquid
amm.
uses Uq.
fortis, that is,
strong
ammonia, and the sosqui-carbonate of am-
monia, for preparing the various “salts” that he sells. These materials he does not atteippt to make ; in fact,
it
quite out of his province so to do, but
is
he procures them ready for his hand through some
The
manufacturing chemist. smqlling-bottles
Salts, which
is
what
is
best
preparation for
termed Inexhaustible
prepared thus
is
:
-
Liquid ammonia, Otto of rosemary,
• .
.
.
.
,.
.
.
English lavender,
.
.
.
.
.
1
.1 pint. .1 drachm. .
1
“
bergamot,
£
“
cloves,'
i
Mix the whole
together with
agitation
“
“ “
in a very
strong and well-stoppered bottle.
This mixture
is
used by
filling
the smelling-bottles
with any porous absorbent material, such as asbestos, or,
what
is
better,
sponge cuttings, that have been
well beaten, washed,
and
dried.
These cuttings can
Digitized by
•
'•
‘
wvv
\ XT*
"*^7
'
1
•
•
*
|
INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS.
125
be procured at a nominal price from any of the spongo-dealers, being the trimming or roots of the
Turkey sponge, which are cut
the mer-
off before
7
chants send
it
into the retail market.
.bottles are filled with the
sponge,
it
After the
is
thoroughly
saturated with the scented ammonia, but no more
poured in than the sponge bottles are inverted
;
monia runs out and fabrics,
•happens, the person
When
as, if
who
the sponge
is
by any
spilt
is
over
When
causes a stain.
it
sold
is
when
the
(jhance the
am-
retain,
will
colored
certain
such an accident invariably blamed.
it is
properly,
.saturated
it
will
retain the
ammoniacal odor longer than any other
material;
hence,
way are
we presume,
bottles filled in this
inexhaustible,” which name, how-
called
more than two or three warm hand soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they ever, they do not sustain %
•
*
months with any credit require to be refilled.
9
the
;
*
For transparent colored
•
.
bottles, instead of sponge,
the perfumers use what they call salts (sulphate of potass).
The
insoluble crystal
bottles being filled
with crystals, are covered either with the liquid am-
monia, scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. ^The
necks of the battles are
white cotton
;
.
otherwise,
filled
wh$n
with a
inverted,
piec’e
of
from the
non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia
runs out, and causes complaints to be made. crystals
are prettier
in
colored bottles than
The the
sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome, and, as before observed, ' 11 *
it
holds the
.X >4
,
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
126
'
ammonia
i
better than any other material.
Perfumers
White Smelling Salts, and The White Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which sell also
what
is
called
Preston Salts.
is
mixed any perfuming otto that
thought
is
fit,
lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfaction.
•
.
Preston Salts, which ammoniacal compounds; decomposable
salt
is
the cheapest of
the
all
composed of some easily of ammonia and lime, such as equal is
parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate'
of ammonia, and
compound, rammed
hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto
For
the top prior to corking.
French lavender, or
We
well.
When
of fresh-slaked lime.
bottles arc filled with this
this
is
in
the
very
poured
-on
purpose otto of
otto of bergamot,’ answers very
need scarcely mention that the corks are
dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax,
that
red or black wax dissolved in
is,
portion of ether
is
added.
compound of ammonia that
is
sold in
alcohol, to which a snlall
The only
other
the perfumery trade
is
Eau de Luce, though properly When correctly made
it 'belongs
to the druggist.
which
very rarely the case
is
markable odor of
oil
—
Eau
i>e
Tincture "ofbenzoin or, “ balsum of Peru, ;
.
Qtto of la vbnder,
.
Oil of amber,
.
„<
/
retains the re-
»
'
racteristfc.
Liquor ammonia,
it
of amber, which renders
.
Luce.
.
‘
it
cha-
r
.
•
»
.
.
.
\
.
.
.
. .
j
-
*
oz“
) ,.
.... ... .......
.
10 drops.
5
u
i
2"oz.
Digitized by
—
—
.
127
it
must
henry’s vinegar. If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but
not be. filtered, as
it
should have, the appearance of a
milk-white emulsion.
—
Acetic Acid and its Use' in Perfumery. The pungency of the odor of -vinegar naturally brought it
into the earliest use in the art of perfutnery.
The
evolved by distilling acetate of
acetic acid,
copper (verdigris),
is
the true u aromatic” vinegar of
the old alchemists.
^
The modern aromatic vinegar
is
the concentrated
acetic acid aromatized with various ottos,
camphor,
&c„ thus Akomatic Vinegar. Concentrated acetic acid,
8 oz.
Otto of English lavender, 11
“ “
11
2 drachms.
....... rosemary,
‘‘cloves,
camphor,
. .
•
.
.
First dissolve the bruised acid, then
add the perfumes
1
;
.
'
.
1
1 oz.
.
camphor
and
is
the acetic
in
after refraining together
for a few days, with occasional agitation,
strained,
drachm. «
1
.
then ready for use.
it
to
is
be
•
Several forms for the pfeparatiort of this substance
have been published, almost
all
of which, however,
appear to complicate and mystify a process that all simplicity.
•
The most popular
*
•
strticle
is
Henry's Vinegar. Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each,
.
.
'
4 oz.
Bruised nutineg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each,
.
.
Alcohol (rectified),
Concentrated acetic acid,
-
."
.
.
is •
of this kind
} oz.
4
oz.
16 oz.
:
TUB ART OP PERFUMERY.
128
Macerate the materials for a day in the
spirit;
then add the acid, and digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14° C. or 15° C. Finally, press out the
new aromatized
As. this mixture
acid,
And
filter it.
.
must not go into the ordinary me-
tincture press, for the obvious reason of the
tallic
chemical action that would ensue,
much common as
of the liquor
away
and then
funnel,
Os
we
it is
can,
best to drain
by means of a
to save the residue
thQ interstices of the herbs, by tying them linen cloth,
and subjecting them
to pressure
from
tip in ‘a
by means
of an ordinary, lemon-squeezer, or similar device. VlNAlGRE A LA ROSE. Concentrated acetic acid, Otto of roses,
\
'.
..*
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
oz.
.
1
.
i drachm.
Well shaken together. It
is
obvious that vinegars differently perfumed
may
bo made'.in a similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto of roses.
All these
concentrated vinegars are used in the same
way
as
perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental “ smelling” bottle, previously
filled
with crystals o£ sulphate of potash,
which forms the “
upon sponge into from
had
who
their
sel
de vinaigre” of the shops; or
little silver
French
boxes, called vinaigrettes,
The use of
origin.
these vinegars
their origin in the presumption of keeping those
carried
them from
idle effects
of infectious. dis•
ease, doubtless springing out of the story of the thieves’ vinegar,”
which
is
“
four,
thus rendered in Lewis’s
Dispensatory
Digitized by
—
FOEE THIEVES" VIXEGAE. 4‘
129
said that during the plague at Marseilles,
It is
four persons, tv the use of this preservative, attended,
unhurt, multitudes of those that were affected
under the color of these
services, thev
;
that
rotted both
the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards ap-
prehended, one of them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the prophylactic (a '
very likely story
!
YrsAicEK des qvatex •Take fash tops of
I),
.
Lavender
:
Ob Fors Thieves' Yixegab.
common wormwood. Roman
wormwood, rosemary, each,
which was as follows
Y olev&s.
.
safe, mint,
and .
.
.
rue, of
.'-.1
oz.
1 oz.
flowers,
Garlic, calamus aromatic as, cinnamon, cloves,
and nutmeg, each, Camphor, . .
.
.
.
.
'
*
.
.
.1
.
.
Alcohol or brand*, *
Strong vinegar,
Digest
all
spirit, in
the
materials, except
.
drachm.
I oz. 1
oz.
4 pints.
the camphor and
a closely covered vessel for a fortnight, at a
summer heat; then
express and
the vinaigre
filter
produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved in the
brandy or
spirit.”
•
•
A
very similar and quite as effective a preparation
may
be made by dissolving the odorous principle of
the plants indicated in a mixture of alcohol and acetic acid.
Such preparations, however, are more within There
the province of the druggist than perfumer. are,
however, several preparations of vinegar which
are sold to some extent for mixing with the water for
lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors .
er
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
130
Eau do
deavoring to place them in competition with Cologne, but with
Among them may
little avail.
be
enumerated *
*
l
Hygienic or Preventive Vinegar.
.1
Brandy, Otto of cloves,
“
.
•
.
“
1
...
marjoram,
Gum
benzoin,
pint.
drachm. “
1
»
•
lavender,
.
. -.
.
.
.
_
.
1 oz.
.
Macerate these together for a few hours, then *
add-r—
*
•
•
.
Brown
vinegar,
and strain or
.
2 pints.
•
.
requisite, to be bright.
filter, if
4 m
Toilet Vinegar (a la Extract of cassie, u orris, .
.
Esprit de rose,
.
Violette).
J pint.
.
triple,
White wine vinegar,
.
.
.
.
.
. *
,.
.
Toilet Vineqar (d
.
,
.
.
.*
i
.
i
,2
.
la Hose).
Dried rose-leaves, Esprit de rose,
4 oz.
triple,
White wine vinegar,
Macerate filter
and
“ “ pints.
.
.
.
.
in a close
•
#
vessel
bottle for sale.
.
.
.
..
.
.
.
J purt.
.2
.
pints.
for a fortnight, then •
•
<-
.
Vinaigre de Cologne.
To eau de Cologne, Add, strong acetic
acid,
1 pint,
...
.
.
.
i oz.
Filter if necessary.
Digitized by
PERFUMED VI5EGARS.
131
Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulae, it
will
fl,ower
be obvious to the reader that vinegar of any
may
be prepared in a similar way to those
above noticed vinaigre
it
thus, for vinaigre a la jasmine, or for
;
la fleur dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;orange,
tute the
esprit
dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;orange,
in.
we â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;have only
place of the
Eau de Cologne,
orange-flower or 'jasmine Vinegars; latter articles are not in
for explaining is
to substi-
de jasmine, or the esprit de
fleur
to produce
however, these
demand, and our only reason
how such preparations may be made,
in order to suggest the
methods of procedure to
any one desirous of making them leading
articles in
their trade.
We
perhaps
economy gars
is
in the
may
observe, en passant, that where
production of any of the
toilet vine-
a matter of consideration, they have only to
be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable strength required.
Any
of the perfumed vinegars that are required to
produce opalescence, when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic as above.
vinegar,
Either myrrL, benzoin, storax, or tolu,
answer equally well.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
132
SECTION
YI.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. In the previous explain the
—
mode
we have endeavored
articles
to
of preparing the primitive perfumes
the original odors of plants.
It will
have been
observed, that while the majority can be obtained ,
under the form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty body.
Of
the latter. are included
with
'
among no
that are most prized,
all
the exception of otto of rose the odoriferous gems.
—
that
Practically,
diamond
we have
essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, Acacia,
What
Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others.
we know
is
derived from esprits, ob-
oils or fats, in
which the several flowers
of the&e odors
tained from
have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards infusing such
fats
or oils in
alcohol.
-
Undoubtedly, these
odors are -the most generally pleasing, while those'
made
from the essential oils (i. e. otto), dissolved in spirit, The simple odors, are of a secondary character.
when when
isolated, are called
Essential Oils or Ottos
dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol,
;
by
the English they are termed Essences, and by the
French Extraits, or Esprits this rule.
Essential
peel, are frequently
oil
;
a few exceptions prove
of orangc-pepl, and of lemon-
termed
in the trade
“ Essence”
Digitized by
GoogI
!
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
133
of orange and “Essence” of lemons,5 instead of essential, oil
is
that
correct
used in perfumery, as well as in the
and the fewer blunders
allied arts, the better,
made
The sooner the
or otto of lemons, &c.
nomenclature
in the dispensatory.
It
will
be
appears to the writer,
the nomenclature of these substances were
if
revised,
it
would be serviceable
and he would sug-
;
gest that,- as a significant, brief, amd comprehensive
term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that such
and such a body
We
plant.
oil
will be Seen
word otto
is
the odoriferous principle of the
should then have otto of lavender' instead
of essential
of lavender, &c. &e.
“ essential
in place of
with his views.
Where there
essential oil in a fat significant distinction
oil
this
work
it
oil,”
in accordance
exists a solution of
an
oil,
the necessity of some such
is
rendered obvious,, for com-
mercially such, articles are
jasmine,
In
that the writer has generally used the
of roses, &c..
called “oils”
still
It
—
oil
of
cannot be expected that
the public- will use the words
<l
fat” oil and “essen-
tial” oil, to distinguish these differences of
composi-
tion.
There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants should not be denominated oils.
class of substances the
bad same
belonging to another.
Surely,
In the
first
place, it is a
ftriiMiple to give
signification
there
distinguishing qualities in their
are
any
as those
enough
composition, their
physical character, and chemical reaction, to warrant the application of a significant class of substances
known
as the
name
to
that large
aroma of plants
12
Digitized by
— ;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
134
When
the chemical nomenclature was last revised,
the organic bodies were that
we owe
much
in
but a
of
its
little
this universal
the
little
same way as “
spirit” hap
know
been used,
consideration quickly indicates the folly
continued use./
We
can no longer
rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential
mary or
We
dealt with.
“ oil” to the old alchemist,
nutmegs,- with any
call otto of
of rose-
oil
more propriety than we
can term sulphuric acid “bil” of
All the
vitriol.
chemical works speak of the odoriferous bodies as
“ essential” ar “ volatile” oils, and of the greasy Oils, properly bodies as “ fat” op “ unctuous” oils. so called, unite with salifiable bases and -form soap
whereas the essential or volatile
would please
to call the ottos, tlo
oils,
i.
e.
what we
On
no such thing.
the contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances.
The word
oil
bodies to whieh
must hereafter be confined its literal meaning refers
to those
—
unc-
fat,
tuous, inodorous (tflien pure), greasy substances
and can no longer he applied to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diametrically opposite
to
fixed its
oil.
'.We have grappled with “
meaning
in a chemical sense
longer “spirit” of
Salt,
or “spirit”
Let us no longer have almond oil “ unctuous,” and the like.
oil
;
1
spirit,’
'
and
we have no
of hartshorn.
“essential,” almond
It remains only for us to complete the
branch of
perfumery which relates to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulae for preparing the most favorite “ bouquets” and “ nosegays.” These, as
Digitized by
.
135
BOUQUETS.
before stated, are but mixtures of the Simple ottos in spirit,
and
which, properly blended, produce an agreeable
characteristic odor,
— an
effect
upon the smelling
nerve Similar to that which music or the mixture of
harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.
«.
.
The iV'HAMHRA PeRTUMB, Extract of ttibereuse,
u
.
1
geranium,
.
i
&C(lCl3|
•
i
V
fleur d’orange,
«
civet,
\
pint-
“ “ “
.
.
TnE Bosphorus Bouquet. Extract of acacia,
1 pint.
“
jasmine,
“
rose triple,
_
“
flcur.d’orange,
lt
“•
civet,
.
Otto of almopda,
.
’
.
'
of each,
i
“
i
“
*
tubereuse, .
.
10 drops.
Bouquet
d’ Amour. «
Esprit do rose, '
“ *
“ “
jasmine, )
from pomade, of each,
.
1 pint.
cassie, >•
“.
*
violette,
Extract of musk, of each,
•.
i
“
ambergris,
Mix and
filter.
Digitized by
.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
136
Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d’Andorre. Extrait de jasmine, u rose, It
from pomade, of each,
violette,
U
1
pint
1
“
*
•
-
tuberose,
Extract of orris,
.
Otto of geranium,
1 oz.
%
#
Buckingham Palace Bouquet. Extrait de fleur d'orange,
u
.
cassie,
u a
from pomade, of each,
jasmine,
Extract of orris, “ ambergris,
1
of each,
.
j
Otto of neroli,
u
lavender,
“
rose,
.
Bouquet de Caroline Extrait do rose,
i drachm.
..
i
“
.
r
«
also called Bouquet, des Delices.
;
-»
violette,
“
from pomade, of each,
{
pint
1
tuberose, J
Extract of
“
pint
1
rose,
_
1
orris,
°.
ambergris,
Otto of bergamot,
eaC
«
i
’
j
>
“
Limette,
t
“
cedtet,
j
of each,
•
.
,
...
1
oz.
The Court tNosEG ay. 0
Extrait de rose,
“
u
)
violette,
l
of each,
.
*
Esprit de rose triple, I Extract of musk,a , of each, ’ “ ambergris, rgris, J
1.
'
Otto of lemon, “ bergamot, neroli,
)
-
of
“ ch ,
'
....
«
1 oz.
}.
“
pint
1,
jasmine, J
’
i “
}
1
drachm.
Digitized
by
— BOUQUETS.
137
EaU BE C^YPUE. This,
is an-
old-fashioned French perfume, presumed
from the Cyper'm esculentus by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus ; the article sold, however, is made thus to he derived
Extract of musk, * “ ambergris, “
“
“
•
pint
.
1
•
i
.
2 pints.
1
vanill^,
tonquin bean,
of each,
“
orris,
Esprit de rose
triple,
The mixture thus formed
one of the most lasting
is
odors that can be made. Empress Eugenie's NosEOAf. Extract of mirek, “ vanilla, u tonquin,
\
*
-
of each,
.
i pint.
.
.
“ u
neroli,
“
rose triple, > of each,
“
.
0
geranium,
0
i
santal,
.
.
.
•
J
i .
“
»
.Esxerhazy Bouquet.
-
Extrait dc fleur d’orange (from pomade), Esprit depose triple,
“
.
•
,
Extract of vitivert, “ vanilla, “ orris,
of each,
.
.
1 pint.
.
1
.
2
“
“
tonquin,
Esprit de neroli.
•
Extract of ambergris, Otto of santal, “ cloves,
-* .
.... •
•
i
•
•
•
•
f
•
*
•
“
.
1
•
i
$ drachm.
“
•
•
.
•
•
••
i
“
12 *
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
138
Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it
is
the vitivert that gives this bouquet
Few perfumes have
character.
peculiar
its
excited greater furor
while in fashion. 1;
Ess Bocqvet. N.
The
•
reputation of this perfume has given rise to
numerous imitations of the original
Germany and
in
France
more par-
article,
many
In
ticularly on the continent.
of the shops in
be seen bottles labelled
will
by Bay ley and Co.,
in close imitation of those sent out
Cockspur Street, London, who
are, in truth, the ori-
ginal makers. Esprit de rose triple,
-
.
Extract of ambergris, “ . orris, Otto of lemons,
“
.
.
.
.
*
•
.
.
.
.
.
bergamot,
.
.
.
.
.
.1 pint
.
. .
.
.
.
2 oz. 8 “
•
1
.
1
“ “
The name “ Ess” bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere contraction of “essence” of bouquet.
*
'
Spirit (from grape),
Otto of “
•
• .
Eau de Cologne.
60 over proof,
neroli, Petdle ,
“
Bigarade,
rosemary, orange-peel,
“
bergamot-peel,
Mix with
quality.)
.
'
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*6 •
gallons.
3 oz. “ 1 2 “
“ “ “
citron-peel,
•
(La premiere
.
agitation
5
6
•
4i
“
2 “
;
then allow
it
to stand for a
few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.
X <
'
Digitized by
)
139
BOUQUETS.
Eac de Cologne.
(La deuxieme
quality.)
Spirit (from corn)
v
Otto of-neroli, Petit-grain , “ Petale,
....
“
rosemary,
“
orange-peel,
“
lemon,
“
-
.
.
.
.
2 oz. « «
‘
v
:
'
of each,
6 gallons.
.
.
.
.
i
.
2
.
4 “
•
•
.
f )
bergamot,
Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced
to the public as
a sort of
“cure-all,”, a
regular
now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say nothing, such maitter “elixir of life,”
it
being irrelevant to the purpose of
this hook.
Con-
sidered, however, as a perfume, with ^be public taste it
ranks very high
;
-and although
it
is
exceedingly
&nd evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called “ refreshing.” Whether this be due to the.rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, volatile.
but think something
may
be attributed to both.
One
important thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and that
is,
the quality of
its manufacture. The utter immaking brandy with English spirit in resemble the real Cognac, is well known.
the spirit used in possibility of
any way It
is
to
equally impossible to
English
spirit, to
make Eau de Cologne with article. To
resemble the original'
speak of the “purity” of French spirit, or of the “ impurity” of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact
is,
that spirit derived from grapes,
and
spirit
obtained from corn, have each so distinct and charac-
/
Digitized by
140
ART OF PERFUMERY.
TIIE
an aroma, that the one -cannot bo mistaken for the other. The odor of grape spirit is said to teristic
be due to English fusel
the- ocanfhic ether
So powerful
oil.
French
spirit,
which
it
contain^.
on the other hand, owes
spirit,
'
The
odor to
its
the oeanthic ether in the
is
that notwithstanding the addition to
it
of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos
of neroli, rosemary, and others,
gives a cha-
it still
to the products mp.de containing
racteristic perfunfe
and hence the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance.
it,
^Although very
Eau de Cologne
fine
by merely mixing the ingredients recipe as above, yet citrine
ottos with spirit, -and then to
ture, afterwards
and
often
is
made
as indicated in the
is better, first, to
it
mix
distil
all
the
the mix-
adding to the .distillate the rosemary
ncrolies, such process
being the one adopted by
the most popular house at Cologne.
A
great
many forms
for the manufacture of
Eau
de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of
the'
recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a
practical sense, of
on paper
;
what they were putting by theory
other venturers, to show their lore, have
searched out
all
the aromatics of Lindleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Botany,
and would persuade us
to use .absinthe, hyssop, anise,
juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin,
cardamom,
cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender,
camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.
.
^
All these, however, are but is
a mere matter of
profit,
hum
!
Where
it
and the formula that we
Digitized by
*
BOUQUETS. have given required,
a weak
better to dilute the said Cologne with'
it is
or with rose-water, rather than other-
spirit,
wise alter
its
141
too expensive to produce the article
is
form
because, although weak, the true
;
aroma of the original article is retained. The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show that a ver$r decent article can be produced with English
*
spirit.
'
Flowers or Erin.
.
*
Extract of white rose (see u vanilla, .
White Rose), •
*
•
1 pint.
. •
.
.
.
•
.
1 oz.
•
Royal Hunt Bouquet. Esprit de rose triple,
.
i
u u
'
u a it
•
•
•
neroli,
1.
pint.
*
B
acapia, fleur d'orarige,
of 6ach,
.
“
1
•
'
musk, orris,
>
tonquin,
Otto of citron.
•
•
.
.
•
*
Bouquet de Flora
•
•
*
*
.
•
.
'
.
“
i
.
2 drachms.
otherwise, Extract op Flowers.
;
Esprit de rose,
“ “
tubereuse,
from pomade, of each,
Otto of bergamot^ “ '°” 0n ’
“
1
.
pint.
violette,
Extract of benzoin,.
orange,
.
.
.
.
.
.
j’
1
of each,
.
»
,
2
.
,
ljoz.
.
.
.
4
“ “
Digitized by
THE
112
OF PERFUMERY.
AltT
The Guards' Bouquet. Esprit de rose, *
P
.
neroli,
Extract of vanilla, “ orris,
musk, Otto of cloves,
.
Fleur
d’Italie; or Italian Noseuay. ’
Esprit de rose, from pomade,“ rose triple) . .
“
jasmine,
lC
violette,
|
frora P omadc >
/
of eaeh*
“
tubereuse,
“
ambergns,-
“
(English formula
.
.
.
.
.
.
Pomade, of each, .
.
.
;
.
.
.
.
^
.
.
-
(French formula.)
de pomade*
tubereuse,
.
,
1
Jockey Club Bouquet. rose*,
•
•
/
Otto of bergamot,
“
-
v
E^trait de cassie,
“•
•
.
Esprit de rose, triple, . “ rose de pomade,
Esprit de
each >
....
.
Jockey Club Bouquet. orris, root
.
.
I
ambergris,
Extract of
.
I
Extract of cassie, “ musk,
«
> .
•.
'
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
1
.
1
.
$
1
cassie,
jpamjae,
\
Extract of civet,
pint.
“ “
.
“
3 oz.
Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe,
it
must be
Digitized by
143
BOUQUETS. all
of brandy,
grape
i.
e.
whereas the English
spirit;
perfumes are made with corn
spirit,
which alone
Though good- for some mixtures,
modifies their odor.
yet for others the grape spirit .
made
the French perfumes are
remembered that
very objectionable,
is
on account of the predominance of
its
own aroma.
We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit
;
the
employed.
is
Owing
French say, of
distinction
made according
of British and Parisian perfumes the same recipes
marked
to
entirely due to the different spirits
to the strong
“ bouquet,” as the
their spirit in comparison with ours,
the' continental perfumers claim a superiority in the
quality of their perfumes.
Now, although we candidly
admit that some odors are better when prepared with grape
spirit
than with that from corn
spirit,
are others which are undoubtedly the best 1
pared with spirit derived from the
yet there
when
latter source.
require to retain their true aroma alcohol,
when
must be made with the British
pre-
Musk,
ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine,
if
we
in solution in spirit.
All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau
de Cologne,
Eau
de Portugal,
Eau
d’ Arquebuzade,
lavender, can alone be brought to perfection
the French spirit in their manufacture.
jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be
French or brandy of the flower
is
spirit,
and
by using
If extract of
made with
the
the true characteristic odor
lost to the olfactory nerve-^-so
com-
pletely does the ocanthic ether of the grape spirit hide
the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it.
This solves the paradox that English extract of
Digitized by
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
144 yiolet all
and
its
compounds, “spring flowers,” &c.,
demand on
times in
On to
the contrary,
make Eau de
if
is
at
the Continent, although the
very flowers with which we make
it
are
grown
there.
an English perfumer attempts
Portugal, &c., to bear any compari-
son as a fine odor to that without using grape
made by Lubin,
spirit, his
of Paris,
attempts will prove a
makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article and they alone can stamp its merit—^discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between “Patent British” and foreign brandy. True,
failure.
Perhaps that what in
it
is
fie
may
—
not be out of place here to observe
sold in this country as British
truth grape spirit, that
is,
brandy
is
foreign brandy very
largely diluted with English spirit
!
By this
a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor
scheme, is
main-
tained; the difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the
makers of the “ capsuled”
article to
undersell those tfho veqd the unsophisticated Cognac.
Some
“
chemists, not being very deep in the
tricks
of trade,” have thought that some -flavoring, or that ccanthic ether,
Cognac aroma. called
was used
An.
to impart to British spirit the
article is
even in the market
“Essence of Cognac,” but which
more than very badly made butyric
On
by the fermentation
way
nothing
procured
and is England
into the market,
often mixed with the grape spirit spirit
is
of the molasses from beet-root
this, of course, finds its
we have
is
ether.
the Continent a great deal of spirit
;
so, also, in
from potatoes, which
is
mixed
in the
Digitized by
)
145
BOUQUETS,
we may
These adulterations, if spirit* modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols.
corn it,
so term
A
Japanese Perfume. '
"Extract of rose triple, 1 it-
u
cedar,-
it
*
of each,
:
r • •
*•
«
.
•
T£ew Garden Noseoat. (
...
•
vervaine,
Espsit d« neroli U cassie,
Pdale ),
•1 pint.
.
*
a
from pomade? of each,
i
“
*
j
it
*
’j
tubereuse, y
4( tt
* .“
.
.
a
} pint.
.
santal,
'
•
.
.... ..
patchouly,
u
%
_
vitivefly
U
asinine,
J *
geranium,
musk, ambergris,
•
<
,
" •»
.
,
.
.
•
“
•
*
.
3 oz.
|
1
of each,
;
•
'•
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
146
These ingredients are to remain together
for at
least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale. MlI.LBFI.EUKS ET LAVENDER.
.
Essence of lavender (Mitcham),
Eau
...
.
4 pint.
!•“
des millefleurg,
Decroix’s Milleflower Lavender. from grape,
Spirits
French
.
otto of lavender,
•
.
.
.
.
...
...
1 pint. 1 oz.
.
Extract of arhbergris,
2 oz. •
The
original
Delcroix
its
;
“ lavender aux
millefleurs”
is
that of
peculiar odor is due to the French otto
of lavender, which, although some folks like
it, is
very-
inferior to Ihe 'English otto of lavender;
hence the
formula
by the
ventor,
first
and
given
far superior to that
is
in-
almost superseded the original pre-
,has
parations.
There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender
is ttie leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and
ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and rnanSchalc, &Q., all of which are
composed of
fine spirituous
any
essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent, of
of the other ingredients*
Bouquet du Marechale. Esprit de rose 'tfri pie,
“
*
» -
.
*
)
Extrait de fleur d’orange,
0 f eac fc
1 pint.
'
J
vitivert,
u
vanilla,
a
orris,
u
tonquih,
of each,
•
1
“
*
Esprit de ncroli,
Digitized by
«
.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS, Extract of mask, “ ambergris, ‘
Otto of cloves, “ santal,*
)
147
, '
i pint.
.
i ,
ofe
)
e
_
)
i drachm.
.
"
/
Eac de Mousselaine. ’
Bouquet mtlr^chale,
.
.
.
‘ '
'
.
‘
.
.1
pint,
Extrait de cassie,
u
'
jasmine,
u
tuhcreuso.
u
rose,
Otto of santal,
•
from pomade, of each,
J
.
“
.2 drachms.
.
Bouquet de Moxtpellibr. Extrait
cfe
tubereuse,
.
«
rose de pomade,
K
rose triplej
Extract of musk, “ am barf
«
.
of each, ris,
1 pint.
, •
.. .
.
.
1
“
1
“
i
.
1
0
"
Otto of cloves, “ bergamot,
1J drachin.
.
.
oz.
•
Caprice de la Mode. Extrait de jasmine, u tubereuse,
of each,
u
i pint.
.
cassie,
tl
fleur d’oraqge,
Otto of almonds,
“
nutmegs,
Extract of civet,
.
10 drops,
.
10
4 .
.
“
1 pint.
May Flowers. Extract of rose (de pomade), “ “
jasmine, of each, -
fleur d’orange,
“
cassie,
“
vanilla,
Otto of almonds,
£ pint.
.
.
1
.
1
“
drachm.
Digitized by
.
*
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
148
Neptune, or Naval Nosegat. ‘
‘
Extrait de rose, triple, “ santal,
“
’
.
u
*.
'Of each,
patchoulj, J
“
•
J pint.
*
\
•
•
vitivert, . «
verbena,
'
•
•
•
“
Bouquet of all Nations. Countries wherein the Odors nr# produced. .
•
•
Turkey,
Esprit de rose triple,
.... England, Franck, ....
... Extract of jasmine, “ lavender, . “ tube reuse, .
Africa,
.
.
.
South America,
.... ....
Timor, Italy,
.
.
.
Tonquin,
.
.
.
santal,
.-
.
.
.
patchouly,
Otto of citronella,-
“
.
Extract of orris,
•
•
•
•
•
“
santal,
«
•
•
“
rose,
•
•
•
t
•
r .
Bouquet du Roi.
r
.
1
i
“ “
“
'
drachm
1
i oz.
.
J
pint. ••
.
•
•
'
k
.
.
;
....
•
•
.
*> “
.
.
•
..
Wight Bouquet.
vitivert,
.
....
lemons,
Extract of musk,
.
Isle of
.
.
violet,
.
....
Sardinia,
-
•
11
IIlXDOOSTAN,
Ceylon,
“
w
vanilla,-.
.
\ “ \ “
.
.
.
“
.
.
“
.
•
i pint.
.
..
.
•
J pint. „
•
•
1
•
t
1
•
•
i
“ ‘1
*
.
Extract of jasmine, “
violet,-
“
rose,
“
vanilla,
from pomade, of each,
-
of each,
.
“
‘
.
.
I of each,
.
•
.
.
} pint.
vitivert,
musk, ambergris,
Otto of bergamotr, “
1 pint,'
.
-
.
cloves,
.
.
•
) • •
1 oz.
•it* •
•
•
*
•
1 oz. 1
drachm.
Digitized by
,
'
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
149
Bouquet de la Reive. Esprit de rose, r0se ’
de
Extrfiit
i
from pomade, of each,
}
tubereuse,
.
“
fleur d’orange,
.
Otto of bergamot,
.
1 pint.
hr
“
•
i
“
.
4 oz.
!
•
;
.
-
$
Rondeletia.
_
.
.
Violetta, j
“
The perfume bearing
above
the
name
is
un-
doubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever
made.
been
Its
Hannay and Dietrichsen, name of this odor from the
Messrs*
taken the
htivc
inventors,
probably
Rondelctia, the
Chyn-len of the Chinese-; or from the R. odorata of the
West
Indies, which has a sweet odor.
before observed that there
is
We
have
a similarity of effect
upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources for
instance,
otto
of almonds
may
:
that,
be mixed with
extract of violet in such proportion that, although
the odor
is*
the viole£
is
inereased, yet the character peculiar to
Again
not destroyed.
odors which,
ert
duce a new aroma, perfectly itself.
:
there are certain
being mixed in due proportion, pro-
This effect
is
distinct,
and peculiar to
exemplified by comparison with
when mixed, upon the nerve of vision such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green ; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known the influence of certain colors :
as puce or yiolet.
Now when
the odor of lavender and odor of cloves
are mixed, they produce a 13 *
new
fragrance,
i. e.
Ron-
—
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
150 deletia reality
such combinations that constitute in “ a new perfume,” which, though often adverIt
!
is
very rarely attained , J Jasmine artd patohouly
tised, is
produce a novel aroma, and. many others in like
manner; proportion and mixed, must of course be
when
relative strength,
studied,
-
otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit,
mixed
be
the solution
strongest odor
is
so
and the substances any given
If the'same quantity of
used accordingly.
equal
in
proportions,
hiding the presence of the other.
and the
by covering 6r
instantly indicated
way we
In. this
discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena
are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse,
Many
and jasmine are the most
persons will at
first
consider
delicate.
that
we are
asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to
,
the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures
and
pains.
•
By
tutoring the olfactory nerve,
it
is
capable of perceiving matter in the -atmosphere of the
most subtle nature
:
not only that which
is
pleasant,
but also such as are unhealthful.'. If an unpleasant
a
warning
odor
is
it is
worth while to cultivate that power which enables
to seek a
purer atmosphere, surely
us to act up to that warning for the general benefit' of health.
To return, however, to Rondeletia it will be seen by the annexed formulae, that, besides the main in:
gredients to which that nilla,
is,
-cloves
&c.
it
owes
peculiar character
its
and lavender
—
it
contains musk, va-
These substances are used in these as in
»
Digitized by
)
.1
*•
.
*
.
151
COMPOUND ODORS.
nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing ‘
the more volatile odors to the handkerchief. Essexoe of Roxdeletia. Spirit (brandy 6Q o.p.),
1 gallon.
Otto of lavender, “ cloves, •. “ roses, .
.
1 oz.
4
3 drachms.
“
bergamot,
1 oz.
U3&, Extract of musk,
A
vanilla, '
*
“
L
each,
} pint.
.'
ambergris ibergrfs,
The mixture must he made at least a month before Very excellent Rondeletia may also it is-fit for sale. he made with English spirit. *l
•
.
f
•
•
• '
Bouquet Royal.
Extract of rose (from pomade),
1
pint.
^sprit de rqse,
\
“
triple,
Extract of jasmine, 41
violet,
.
“
)
•
from
cassie/
) each)
eachj
i
a
j cach)
Extract of musk, “ ambergris,
)
.
2£ oz.
..
)
Otto of lemons, “ bergamot,
'
d
,)
verbena,
•
;
J oz.
.
^
j
)
1
oz.
Suave.
’
.
Extract of tubereVise, it
u a
jasmine, •
cassie,
rose,
vanilla, tt
u
V
2 oz. •
musk,
from pomade,
each-,
.... each,
.
.
.
1 pint.
.
5 oz.
.•»
2 oz.
ambergris,
Otto of bergamot, cloves,
.
.»
1 oz. 1
drachm.
rx
t
TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.
ir>2
Spring Flowers. Extract of 6 X & u violet, ’-l
u Li
-
from pomade, each,
.
2t oz.
.
2 drachms.
.
1 oz.
•
#
,
just reputation of this perfume places
ever been is
it
in
rank of the very best mixtures that have
first
odor
pinE
2 | ox.
cassie,
Otto of bergamot,
the
1
.
Extract of ambergris,
The
.
J
rose, triple,
made by any manufacturing perfumer.
truly flowery, but peculiar to
unlike any other aroma chiefly because there
with that at
all
it
itself.
Its
Being
cannot well be imitated,
nothing that we are acquainted
is
resembles the odor qf the esprit de f
rose,
as derived from
,
Inaceratiug
rose
pomade
in
which, and to the -extract of violet, nicely
spirit, to
counterpoised, so that neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of “ Spring' Flowers” little
ambergris that
the odor
is*
due
the
;
present gives permanence to
is
upon the hankerchief, although from the very
nature of the ingredients fleeting odor.
it
may
“ Spring Flowers”
invention, but there
is
is
be said to be a
an Englishman’s
scarcely a perfumer in ‘Europe
that does not attempt an imitation. Tblip Nosegay.
Nearly
\
all
the tulip tribe, although
the eye, are inodorous.
Van it
is
The
beautiful to
variety called the
Due
Thol, howeyer, yields an exquisite perfume, but
not used by the manufacturer for
of extracting
its
odor.
tl*e
purpose
He, however, borrows
its
Digitized by
—
COMPOUND
thus
153
ODORS,
makes an
name, and
poetical
imitation
excellent
:
Extract of tubereuse, j from pomaJC) cach) “ violet, • )
“
rose,
“
orris,
.
Otto of almonds,
.
,
.
v
.
!
•
}
.
3 oz.
.
Under the head
‘.3
.
^ • YlOLCT-TE des Bois.
.
,
... ...
.
Violet,
*
pint.
.
-
'
.
“
drops.
•
we have already explained
the method of preparing the extract or essence of that
modest flower.
The Parisian perfumers
ture of violet,
which
title
of the
which
is
is
Violet des Bois,
made
or the
—
thus
sell
a mix-
very beautiful, under the
Wood
'
•
Extract of violet, ' “ orris,.
Violet,
'
1 pint.
3 oz.
“
cassie,
•“
rose (from pomade),
*
.
3 oz.
.
Otto of almonds,
3 oz. 3 drops.
This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet.
Wixdsor Castle Bouquet. AJcohol,-
1 pint,
.
%
Otto of nerolr, “ roso, “ lavender,
“
bergamot,
“
cloves,
each,
J »z.
8 drops.
.
Extract of orris,
1
jasmine,
each,
cassie,
|
musk,
)
’
ambergris,
pipt “
,
v each,
j
i
2J oz.
»
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
154
•;
Yacht
Cla’b Bocqc£t.
Extract of santal, “ neroli,
“
.
14
“
I
•
i
.
4 oz.
•
*
“
rose triple,
“
r
vanilla,
have now completed the branch of the Art of
Perfumery which or
pint. •
Flowers of benzoin,
We
1
.
jasmine,
relates to handkerchief perfumes,
wet perfumery. .Although we have rather too
much encroached upon giving the composition there are
many
Those that
artf
left
the space of this work in
of so
many
bouquets, yet
unnoticed which are popular.
given are noted more particularly for
the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected
from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried.
Those readers who require
to
know anything about them
the simple extracts of flowers ar6- referred to
under their respective alphabetical
titles.
/
V
Digitized
by
— DRY PERFUMES.
•
*
SECTION
•
155
VII.
.
*
.
.
The previous.articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes the present matter relates, to Dry ;
Perfumes,— sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. Ac. The perfunjes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs .
indigenous to the Eastern
hemisphere
that they
:
were very extensively used and much valued, we is this
that cemeth
frankincense, with
all the.
(Song of ’Solomon, 3
:
a sign of humiliation
a.
it
:
Abstaining from the
6.)
—“ The
shall
come
is
Lord
to- pass
considered as
will
Isaiah 3
;
:
20, 24.)
-
The word
take away
that instead of
sweet smell there shall be a stink.”
22
:
powders of the merchant?”
use of perfume in Eastern countries
the tablets, and
—
“ Who perfumed with myrrh and
have only to read the Scriptures for proofs
(Exod. 35:
tablets in this
made
passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid,
of metal, wood, and ivory.
Some
of these boxes
may have
been made in the shape of buildings, which would explain the word palaces, in Psalm 14 : 8 :
•
.“All thy garments smell of"myrrh,'and cassia, out of the ivory palaces,
made it
thpe glad.”
From what
is
and
aloes,
whereby they have said in Matt.
2
:
11,
would appear that perfumes were considered among
tine
most valuable
gifts
which
man
could bestow
;
Digitized by
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
156
“ And when they
men) had opened their
(the wise
they presented unto him (Christ) gifts and frankincense, and myrrh.” As far as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egyptians
treasures,
gold,
and Persians during the early period of the world were dry perfumes, consisting of spikenard (Nardostachys jatamami), myrrhj olibanum, and other
nearly
resins,
of which are
all
manufacturers .of
shown
Among,
odors.
Alnwick Castle
at
is
from an Egyptian catacomb.
gum-
use by the
in
still
the
curiosities
a vase that was taken It is full of
a mixture
of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a pleasant odor to
the present day, although probably
3000 years
old.
We
have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments, in
way
the same
-
that pot pourri
is
now
used.-
%
«-
-t
'
Sachet Powders.
The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk
hags, or ornamental
envelopes, find
a ready
sale,
being both- good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they
The following formula Shows Every material is either to be or powdfered in a mortar, and after-
drawers;
lie in
their composition.
ground wards
in a mill, '
sifted. •
•
Ground
,
'
.
v
Sach#:t au Cyprb,
rose-wood,
,
cedar-wood,
.
u
santal-wood,
.
.
.
.
.
.
„
1 lb.
...
I lb.
.
*
Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose,
1 lb. ** .
.
.3 drachtns.
Digitized
SACHET POWDERS.
Mix Rnd
sift
•
•
'
*
.
•
Sachet a la "Frangif/xxb. >
*
1
VLtiveM powder,
'
.
.
.
.
.
.
Santal-wood powder,.
*
•
i
",
Orris-root powder,
.
157
for sale.
fit
*
•
f
then
it is
;
'
,
i lb.
.
i lb.
.
•-
*
3 lbs-
.
*
.
.
-
.
.
Otto of neroli, “
of each,
rose, j.
“
.
The name of us
drachm.
.
1
4
1 oz.
santal,.
Musk-pods, ground,
.
has been handed down to
this sachet
being derived from a
as
Roman
of the
noble
Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as wo have family of Frangipani.
another article called
*
rosolis, or ros-solis, »uft-dew,
an
aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of
which he
is
wine, in which
musk.
composed of
said to be the inventor, is
steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and
.
Heliotrope Sachet. Powdered orris, . • * . Rose leaves, ground, . Toaquin beans, ground, Vanilla beans,
..
Grain musk,
.
,
*.
.
.
'.
.
. •
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*
•
•
Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sale. «
fectly
1 lb.
I lbj
.•
i lb.
.
1
oz.*
6 drops.
.
•
*
si$ve, it is
fit
for
•
*
•
*
It is one'
its
.
...
Otto of almonds,
it
.
S lbs.
•
pf the best sachets made, and
is
so per-
au naturel
derives
its.
in its odor to the flower from which name, that no person unacquainted with
composition would, for an instant, believe
any other than the “real thing.”
it .
to be
.
158
THE ART OP PERFUMERY,
Lavender Sachet. Lfrvender flowers, ground, benzoia, in powder,
1 lb.
JGum
ik
J
Otto of I9 vendpr,
.
.
1 oz.
Sachet a la MabecHale.
Powder of “
santal-wood, orris-root,
.
J lb.
*
Jib.
Rose-leaves, ground, Cloves, ground, .
»*;._•
'
,
Jib..
.
J drachm.
,
,
Sachet a Vitivort, in powder,
IK.
J
J
Cassia-bark,
Gram musk, •
Jib.
>
Mocsselaine.
i,a
.
1 lb.
Santabwood,
-.
)
each,
Orris,
•
,
.
J
Otto of thyme, “ rbses,
( casse ),
*
.
...
.
i lb.
j -
.
*
ib.
;.
5 drops. •
.
.
-
ilb.
.
r
Black-currant leaves Benzoin, in powder,
.
i drachm.
Millwleur Sachet. Lavender-flowers, ground,
A
1
V
•
* ,
Orris,
Rose-leaves,
Benzoin,
•
Tdnquiu,
,
'
Vanilla, Santal,
.
-
•
each,
.
.
.
1
lb.
7,7
.
each,
,
J lb.
.-
Musk and
civet,
2 drachms..
Cloves, ground,
Cinnamon, Allspice,
J
lb.
2
oz.*'
‘
J
j
eae k
<
•
t
Digitized by
I
SACHET POWDERS. PtfttTro.M.
lemon-peel,
<l
orris-root,
Sachet.
...
Dried oraivge-peci, “
159
....
Otto of orange-peel, “ neroli, u lemon-grass,
1
.
.
.
.-
i lb. ill;. 1 Q/..
.
.
.
.
lb.
.
.
.
}
drachm. “
.
•
d
Patchovi.y Sachet. Patchouly herb, ground,
....
.
Otto of patchouly,
. -
Patchouly herb
is
as imported, tied
up
often sold
in
its
1
d
lb.
drachm.
natural
in bundles of half a
state,
pound each.
Pot Pounni. This
is
a mixture of dried flowers
and spices not
ground. Dried lavender,
Whole Crude
rose-leaves, 1
orris (coarse),
Broken doves, “ “
Table •
.
We
.
l
lb.
.
1
lb.
.
i lb.
>
cinnamon,
>
allspice,
)
salt,
....
.
each,
.
.
h oz.
.
.
need scarcely observe that the
salt is
1
lb.
only used
to increase
the hulk and weight of the product, in
order to
it
sell
cheap. Oli.a
This
is
Ponr.iDA,
a similar preparation to pot pound.
regular form can he given for
it,
as
it
is
No
generally
made, or “knocked up,” with the refuse and spent
Digitized by
-
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
160
materials derived from other processes in the
manu-
facture of 'perfumery ; such as the spent vanilla after
the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla, or ,
of the grain musk from the extract of 'musk, orris from the tincture, tonquin. beans, after tincturation, &c.
mixed up with
&c.,
any
rose-leaves, lavender, or
odoriferoUs'herhs,
;
.
.
%?,>* Rose Sachet. Rose heels or
leaves',
.
Sautal-wood, ground,
Otto of roses,
.
.
‘
.
.
.
.
1
.
.
.
.
J lb.
.
.
J oz.
.
•
lb.
.
.
•
Santaj.-wood Sachet.
This
is
a good and economical sachet,. and simply
ground wood.
consists' of the
Santal-wood
te be
is
purchased from some of the wholesale drysalters drug-grinders are the people, to reduce
you-~any attempt
for
do so at home wiH
to
unavailable, on account of
its
the
found
toughness. •
• i
;
to* powder
it
.
Sachet (without a name). Dried thyme, “
1
"
.
lemon thyme, mint,
marjoram,
“
lavender,'
“
rose heels,
Ground
cloves,
Allspice,
Musk
;
of each,
“ “
,
'
.
'
:
i
. .’
«•
•
.
.
.
«
*
#
.
.
ib.
1 lb.
.
2 oz.
.
2 oz.
* .
in grain,.
} lb,.
t
.1
drachm.
.
,
PERFUMED LEATHER.
161
Vervain Sachet. Lemon-peel, dried and ground, “ thyme, .
•.
.
.
Otto of lemon-grass, “
“
“
.
peel, m
bergamot,
_
.
t
.
.
,
1 lb.
.
i lb.
dracbm.
.
1
.
i oz.
.
1 oz.
»
Vitivert Sachet.
The
fibrous roots of tho
Anthoxanthum miiricatum
being ground, constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from tho Tarnool name, vittie vayer, Its oddr resembles and by the Parisian vetiver. myrrh. Yitivcrt is more often sold tied up in bunches,
as imported from India, than ground, and
is
used for
the prevention of moth, rather than as a perfume. Violet Sachet. Black-currant leaves
Rose heels or
•
.
Otto of almonds,
..
Grain musk,
•
(
Gum
cassc ),
leaves,
Orris-roof powder,
. .
,
.
lb.
2 lbs.
.
.
1 drachm.
.
.
Well mix the ingredients by
lb.
1
.
S
benzoin, in powder,
1
.
sifting;
1
“
4 lb.
keep them
together for a week in a glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale.
There are many other sachets manufactured besides those,
already given, but for actual trade- purposes
there
is
no advantage
than those named.
in
keeping a greater variety
There
are, however,
substances used in a similar is
way
;
many
other
tho most popular
the 14
"
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
1(52
Peao d’Eseagne,
.
Peau d’Espagnc, or Spanish '
skin,
is
nothing more
Good sound
than highly perfumed leather.
pieces
Wash leather are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos, in which aro dissolved some odoriferous gum-
‘of
resins, thug
:
— Otto
each half an ounce
of neroli, otto ;
.of rose, santal,
and cinnamon, of §ach two drachms thought
fit.
ounces of in
it
A paste
is
;
;
otto
o.f
cloves
•
with any others
In this mixture dissolve about two
.
gum
for a
of
otto of lavender, verbena, ber-
gamot, of each a quarter of an ounce
benzoin j now place the skin to steep .
day or
now
so,
to
then haDg
it
>
over a line to dry.
be made by rubbing in a mortar
one drachm of civet with one drachm of glam musk,
and enough solution of gum acacia or gum tragacantha a little of any of to give it a spreading consistence the ottoS that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &e., greatly assists in making the ;
.
whole of an equal body;
thfe
skin being cut up into,
pieces of . about four inches square are
then fo bo
spread over, plaster fashion, with- the last-named compost; two pieces being put together, having the civet plaster inside then), are then to
sheets of paper, weighed
thus for a week
;
finally,
or,
he
place'd
between
pressed,* and left to dry
each double skin, now called
is to be enveloped in some pretty and finished off 'to the taste of the
peau d’Espagne, silk or
satin,
»
.
vender.
*
*
'
’
Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and hence they are frequently called
Digitized by
PERFUMED LETTER PAPER. “ the inexhaustible sachet.”
much, used
fof
Being
163 flat,
they are
perfuming writing-paper.
The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to and pleasing to many ; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which .it is tanned, and all
to the
empyfeumatic
with which is,
it is
of the bark of the birch tree,
oil
The odor
curried.'
of Russia leather
however, not rarforcA^'ertough to be considered
as a perfume
;
can be im-
but, nevertheless, leather
pregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any sweet scent, and which
it.
detains to a remarkable
degree, especially with otto of santal or'lemon-grass
In this manner the odor of the peau
{Verbena).
d’Espagne ’can be greatly varied, and gives great satisfaction, .
on account of the permanence of
perfume.
*
.
*
•
its
•
*
•
•
.
Perfumed Letter-Paper. If a piece oT peau d’Bspagne be placed in oontact
with paper, the latter absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as “ perfumed for writing
it is
obvious that paper
upon must not be touched with any of
the odorous tinctures or ottos, on account of such .
matters interfering with the fluidity of the ink and action of the pfen-' therefore, tiop, as it were, alone
to advantage.
:
»
by
the-
process
'
*
'
-
Besidefe the sachets mentioned there are *
f infec-
can writing paper be perfumed
many
other
substances applied as dry perfumes, such as scented w'adding, used for quilting into
adapted for use
in
all
sorts of articles
a lady’s boudoir; Pincushiqns, jewel
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
164 cases,
and the
fumed,
like are lined with
musk, &c.
•
*
•
'
.
We -have
seen that leather can bo impregnated with
odoriferous substances, in
d’Espjrgnc
made up tasto
*
Perfumed Book-markers.
'
r
Cotton, so per-
it.
simply steeped in some strong essence of
is
;
tlieC
manufacture of peau
just so-is card-board treated prior to being
In finishing them for
into book-marks.
alone
sale,
•
some are orna-
design;
dictates their
mented with beads, others with embroidery. •
'
*.
*
.
•
.
Cassolettes asd Puintakiers,
Cassolettes and Priutaniers are
of various designs, perforated
little
ivory boxes,
order to allow the
in.
The paste used for tilling these “ ivory palaces whereby wo are mRdo glad,” is composed of equal parts of grain musk, amescape of the odors contained therein.
and w’ith enough gum acacia, or gum tragawork the whole together into a paste. These
bergris, seeds of the vanilla-pod : otto of roses, Orris
powder,
cartilui, to
How
things are
principally” used for perfuming the
pocket- or reticule,
mental
silver
much
iu the
same way that orna-
and gold vinagrettesare used. *
*
*
Pastils. I
.
There
v
,
•
I
.
-
•
is
*
•
' **
»
'•
no doubt whatever that the origin of the
use of pastils,' or pastilles, as they are more often called,
from the French, has been derived from the use of incense,
gious
jit
the altars of the
services
temples during the
reli-
According to the custom of the*
priest’s office, his lot (iiacharias’)
was
to
burn incense
Digitized by
;
THE CEKfEK.
hen 1 .
:
he went into the temple of the Lord.' (Luke
9.) .
165
.
“And them shalt mate an idtax to burn incense. * And Aaron shah bora thereon street .
when he dresseth the lamps, and at even -when he Hghteth the lamps he shall turn incense upon it.” (Esodus 30.) incense exert- morning
An
analogous practice
Roman
in the
use to the present day
is in
Catholic churches, but. instead of being
consumed upon an
turned in a many of our readers have seen. “ As soon as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the Holy place was filled altar, the incense is
censer, as doubtless
with perfume, and the congregation without joined in
(Carpenter t Temple terrice of the He-
prayers.” brew*.)
*
The Cessee.
“ Oh
Meroe
the' walls
to
of every temple in Egypt, from
Memphis, the censer
is
depicted smoking
Before the presiding-' deity of the place
;
on the walls
of the tombs glow in -bright colors the preparation of
and perfumes.”
spices is
In the British Museum. there
a vase (No. 2595) the body of which
is
intended to
contain a lamp, the' sides being perforated to admit
the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes
;
which are intended to contain ottos of flowers
placed in the small vases at the end of the tubes
;
the
heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly perfumes an
This vase or censer
apartment. catacomb.
.
.
The Censer, either of brass,
as used in the
German
silver,
is
from an Egyptian -
.
“holy places,”
is
made
or .the precious metals
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
1G6 its
form somewhat resembles a saucer and' an inverted
cup, which latter
is
of the perfume.
perforated, to allow the- escape
In the ^uter saucer is' placed ah
inner one of copper, which can be taken out.aud
filled
J
•
.
-
^
•
.
Tim
Censer. ^
•
When
with ignited charcoal.
carbon
is
plaeed
in.
the censer, and
with the incense; the visible fumes.
'
in use, the" ignited
herit
-The effect
is
is
then covered
rapidly -volatilizes assisted
it
in
by the incense-
•
bearer- swinging the censer, attached to -three long chains, in the air.
-
The manner
of swinging
the
censer varies slightly in the churches in
Rome,
France, and in England, some holding
above the
head.
At La Madeleine
the
it
-
in
method -is always to
Digitized by
••
give the censer a
167
PASTILS.
\
swing at the greatest length of
full
the chains with 'the right hand, rind to cat^h short with the left hand. *
•
it
up
.
Several samples of “ incense prepared for altar
by Mr. Martin, of Liverpool,
service,” as sent out
gum
appear to be nothing more than indifferent quality, 'and
as especially is <
given in
The
mot at
all like
commanded by God,
olibanum, of
the composition
the form for which
in 'Exodus.
full,
moderns are really but a very
pastils of the
slight modification of the inefenge
of the ancients.
For many years they were called Osselets of Cyprus'. In the old books on phdrmacy a certain mixture of
known
the then
gum-re‘sins was called Suflitus, which
being thrown upon hot ashes’ produced
was considered It is
now
to be salutary in
many
used, or at least to cover the
sick-*hamber.
There
is
*
not
l
pastils that are
“
benzoin,
mal odeur of the
«
•
Yellow
£aStils.
.
.
.*
.
Tolu,
.
•
“
.
•
.
.
.
.
.3* drachms.
...
cloves,
Nitrate of potass,
•.
Mucilage -of tragacantba, a
stiff
paste.
-
••
q.s.
to
lb:
li lb.
.
.-
•
*
of the
*
.1
* .
Otto of santal, « .. oaggjp^ .
*
;
Indian, or
*
\yhich
pastils are
much variety in the formula * ^ now in use we have first the
Santal-wood, in powder,
Gum
a- .vapor
diseases.
under the same impression that
•
make
•
1 lb.'
''
•
.
^ OZ.
the whole into
,
Digit
'
TUB ABT OP PERFUMERY.
168
The benzoin, Bantal-wood, and Tolu, are nitre being dissolved in the mucilage,
The
*'
ally* dried.
Tho
*
ottos.
then
is
ma
mortar, the pastils
pastil
mould, and gradu-
After well beating
added.
^are formed in shape with a
be
to.
powdered and mixed-top sifting theta, adding the
•
.
.
Chinese josticks are of a similar composition,
but contain no Tolu* Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value
of santal-wood;
'
.
*
-Benzom;
.
*
•Da. Paris’s* Pastils.
.
.
*
)
ofeach
.
.
.
•
•
•
•
* lb.
.
Cagearilla, }
Myrrh,
r .
.
'a
k
•
•
.
•
.
.
1J oz.
.
l'i
•'
Charcoal,
.
41
•
*
*
1
cloves, )
”
* .
*
:•
i oz.
.
Nitre,
2
.
•
Mix
lb.
,
Otto of nutmegs,
o»‘. % .
•
as in the preeedihg. ’
•
'
•
.
0
Perfumer’s Pastils. 0
Well-horned cbarcbal, Benzoin, Tolu,
*
.
,
.
lib.
..
i lb.
•
#
Vanilla pods.
of each,
-
...
Cloves,
-
•
Otto ef santal, “ neroli, Nitre,
.
.
•
"
*.•
*
>
-
of each.
.. •
.
*•
Mucilage tragacantha,
••
r
.
.
,
•
.•
.
. *
s
.
2 dr.
*
.
,
*li oz.
q
s.
Digitized by
169
FUMIGATION.
Piesse’s Pastils.
Willow charcoal,
i
Benzoic acid,
6 oz.
.
lb.
Otto of thyme,
“
caraway,
“
rose,
“
lavender,
“
cloves,
11
of each,
i dr.
.
santal;
Prior to mixing* dissolve £ oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water ; with this solution
thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow in a
warm
When over zoin.
it
it
to
dry
place.
the thus nitrated charcoal
quite dry, pour
is
the mixed ottos* and stir in the flowers of ben-
When
mixed by
well
sifting
(the sieve is a
better tool for mixing powders than the pestle
mortar),
it
is
finally
enough mucilage less that is
to
beaten
up
and
in a mortar, with
bind the whole together, and the
used the better
A great variety of formulae have been published for them conNow, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes
the manufacture of pastils tain
;
nine-tenths of
some woods or bark, or aromatic
combustion
seeds.
— the slow combustion—materials are pro-
duced which have far from a pleasant odor the smell of burning
volatilized aromatic ingredients
alone that charcoal
The use
of charcoal
is irt
;
in fact,
wood predominates over the ;
it is
for this, reason
used in lieu of other substances. a -pastil
is
merely for burning,
15
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
170
producing, during
its
combustion, the heat required
to
quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which
charcoal
way is,
The product of the combustion
surrounded.
it is
is
of
inodorous, and therefore does not in any
interfere with the fragrance of the pastil.
Such
however, not the case with any ingredients that
may tile
be used that are not in themselves perfectly
by the aid of a small increment of heat.
bustion takes place, which
is
always the case
vola-
If com.with all
the aromatic woods that are introduced -into pastils,
we
wood compounds naturally produced by the
have, besides the volatilized otto which the
contains, all the
slow burning -pf ligneous matter, spoiling the true
odor of the other ingredients volatilized.
There
are,
is
it
true, certain kinds of fumigation
adopted occasionally where 1,hese products are the
By
materials sought.
paper
is
tion) in a
By
such fumigation, as when brown
allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combus-
room
for the purpose of covering
the quick combustion of tobacco, that
bad smells. is,
combus-
no odor developed, but by
its
slow combustion, according to the method adopted
by
tion with flame, there
those
“ the weed,”, the familiar aroma, generated, and did not exist ready
who indulge
“ the cloud,” formed
is
is
in
in the-tobacco.
Now
not develope any odor of
its
a well-made pastil should
own, but simply volatilize be, Used in its
manu-
think that the fourth formula
given
that fragrant matter, whatever facture.
We
it
above carries out that object. It does not follow that the formulae that
given produce at
all
times the odor that
are here is
most
Digitized by
Googl 1
;
PERFUME LAMP. approved
it
171
evident that in pastils, as with other
is
;
Many
perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste.
persons very
much
object to the
aroma of benzoin,
while they greatly admire the fumes of cascarilla.
The Perfume Lamp. Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property
of spongy platinum remaining incandescent in the
vapor of
alcohol, the late
made a very
Mr.
I.
Deck, -of Cambridge,
ingenious application of
it
for the pur-
An ordinary spirit de Cologne, and â&#x20AC;&#x153; trimmedâ&#x20AC;?
pose of perfuming apartments.
lamp
is filled
with
Itfau
with a wick in the usual manner. %
Over
the* centre of #
the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch-
above
itr,
a small ball of spongy platinum
maintained in
its
glass rod, which
position
is
by being
is
placed,
fixed to a thin
inserted into the wiek.
Perfume Lamp.
Thus arranged, the lamp
is
to
be lighted and
allowed to burn until the platinum becomes red hot the flame
may
platinum
remains
then be blown out, nevertheless the incandescent
for
an
indefinite
Digitized by
Googl
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
172
The proximity
period.
of a red-hot ball
terial of the physical quality of
.to
a ma-
Eau de Cologne,
dif-
fused over a surface of cotton -wick, as a matter of
course causes
its rapid'
evaporation, and as a conse-
quence the diffusion of odor. Instead of the lamp being charged with
we may nse Eau de
Cologne,
any
spirituous -essence.
.other
make a
Eau de
Portugal, vervaine, or
Several perfumers
particular mixture for this purpose, which is
called
Eau a Brulek. Eau de
Cologne,..
.
Tincture of benzoin, 1‘
Otto of thyme, “ mint,
u
1 pfnt.
2 oz.
.
vanilla,
1 oz.
1 >•
nutmeg,
of each,
i drachm.
J
Another form, called Eau pour Bruler. Rectified spirit,
1 pint.
.
Benzoic acid,
i oz:
Otto of thyme,
)
of each,
“
caraway,
“
bergamot,
1
drachm.
j
2 oz.
Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume
lamps
will,
however frequently observe
ever difference there
may
that,
what-
be in the composition of
the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of
the
odor of the result when the
in action.
This arises from the fact, that
similarity in
platinum
is
Digitized by
—
.
FUMIGATING PAPER. so long as there
is
173
.the vapor of alcohol,
mixed with
oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain
always
definite products,
result,
namely, acetic acid,
aldehyde, and acetal, which are formed more or leas
and impart a peculiar and rather agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but .which overpowers any other odor •
that is present. FumioatIng Papes.
• **»
There are two modes of preparing 1,
Take
into a solution of
one pint.
them be
alum
banum, and
either
water,
;
upon one
side of
is
it
gum
this
let
paper
benzoin,
oli-
balm of Tolu or Peruvian balsam,
may
or the benzoin &e.,
;
After they are thoroughly moistened, well dried
:
and dip them
—say, alum, one ounce
spread a mixture of equal parts of
gum,
this article
sheets of light cartridge paper,
be used alone.
To
spread the
necessary that they be melted in an
earthenware vessel and poured thinly over the paper, finally
smoothing the surface with a hot spatula.
When
required for use, slips of this paper are held
over a candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the
odorous matter, -but not to ignite the paper prevents ing-
it
it.
The alum
in
a to certain extent from burn*
•
.
,
2.
Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in .
a solution of saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one^ pint of water, to be afterwards
thoroughly dried.
Any
of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum,
benzoin, &c., are to be dissolved to
saturation in
15 *
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
174
4
rectified spirit,
and with a brush spread upon one
side of the paper, which, being
hung
up, rapidly
dries.
Slips of this paper are to be' rolled
up as
spills, to
be ignited, and then to be blown out.
The
nitre
m
the paper causes a continuance of
slow combustion, diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous gums.
If two of
these sheets of paper be pressed together before the surface
When
is
cut
dry, .they will join and into
slips,
become as one. they form what are called
Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.
Digitized by
XHE PRIMARY SOAPS.
175
*
v.
The word
SECTION
YIII.
PERFUMED
SOAP.
Greek sapo,
soap, or sope, from the
occurs in the works of Pliny and Galen.
forms us that' soap was that
it
first
discovered
was -composed of tallow and
German soap was reckoned
the
to Sismondi,. the
A. D. 79),
many
eruption
some excavations made
years 'ago.
(•
Starke's Letters
these statements
Jeremiah
is
it is
evident that the manu-
of very ancient origin
mentions
figuratively
it
—“.For
indeed,
;
"though
thou wash thee with natron, and take thee soap, yet thine iniquity :
from
-
facture of soap
2
of
’’£*
Italy.)
From
•
a soap-boiler’s shop with soap in
was discovered during
there not
According
French 'historian, a soapmaker was
At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an it
and that
ashes,
the best.
included in the retinue of Charlemagne.
Vesuvius
first
Pliny in-
by the Gauls,
22.)
is
in the British
(Jer,
v"
Mr. Wilson says that the soap trade in England
much
marked before me,”
.
is
earliest record of the
to be found in a
Museum, printed
in
pamphlet
1641, entitled
“A
short Account of the -Soap Business.” It speaks-more particularly about the duty, which was then levied for the first time,
and concerning certain patents
which we^e granted cusants, for
to persons,
some pretended' new
chiefly
' -
Popish re-
invention of white
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
176
“which
soap,
in
truth was not so.”
Sufficient is
said here to prove that at that; time soap-making
was
no inconsiderable art. It would be out of place here to enter into the soap-making";
details of
manufacture his dye-stuffs
perfumers do not
because
substance,- but
that
melters," to use a trade term.
are merely “ re-
The dyer purchases
from the drysalters already fabricated,
and these are merely modified under various purposes he requires
;
his
hands to the
so with the perfumer,
he purchases the various soaps in their raw state
from the soap-makers, these he mixes by Temelting, scents and colors according to- the article to be produced.
•
The primary soaps are divided soaps
:
into
hard and soft
the hard soaps- contain soda as the base ; those
which are
soft are
prepared with potash.
These are
again divisible into varieties, according to the fatty
matter employed in their manufacture, also according
to the proportion of
alkali.
these to the perfumer it
forms the basis of
what
is
all
The most important of is
termed curd
soajs,
as
the highly-scented soaps.
Curd Soap is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine tallow. Oil Soap, as made in England, is an uncolored •
.
combination of olive
oil
.
and soda, hard,
.
close grain,
and contains -but "little water in combination. *• Castile Soap, as. imported from Spain, is' a lar combination, but is colored iron.
The
soap after
simi-
by protosulphate of added to the
solution of the salt being it is
manufactured, from the presence of
Digitized by
SOAP DUTY.
TIIE
decomposition of the salt takes place, and pro-
alkali,
toxide of iron
known black pearance to
diffused through the soap, of its well-
is
When
it.
and exposed
the soap
to the air,
oxygen
sorption of
marbled apup into bars, the protoxide passes by ab-
color, giving the familiar is
into peroxide
cut
;
hence, a section
of a bar of Castile soap shows the outer edge red-
marbled, while the interior
is
blahk-marbled.
Some
not artificially colored, but a similar
Castile soap
is
appearance
produced by the use'of a barilla or soda
is
containing Snlphuret of the alkaline base, and at other
times from the presence of an iron
MakiNE Soap
is
salt.
soap, of soda,
a cocoanut-oil
containing a great excess of alkali, and much' water
combination.
.
Yellow Soap
is
a soda soap, of tallow, resin, of-
lard, &c. &c.
Palm Soap
palm
a soda soap of
is
the peculiar odor and color of the
The
odoriferous principle of palm
from
orris-root,
oil
;
it
like ottos generally, it
tact in the presence of an alkali, hence,
of palm
The
oil
retains the odor of the
retaining
unchanged.
resembling that
can be dissolved out of
tion with alcohol
oil,
oil
by tincturaremains
in-
^oap made
oil.
public require a soap that^will not shrink and
change shape after they purchase
it.
It
must make
,
a profuse lather during the act of Avashing. It must It must be not leave the skin rough after- using it. either
None
quite inodorous or of.
have a pleasant aroma.
thejibove soaps possess
all
these qualities in
union, and, therefore, to produce such ah
article is
the object of the perfumer in his remelting process.
Digitized
by
Go>
ft
— THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
178
Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap,
was a commercial impossibility
in 1853, it
fumer
to
for a per-
manufacture soap, befeause the law did not
allow less than one ton of soap to be
made
at a time.
This-law, which, with certain modifications had been in force since the reign .of Charles I,
confined the
•
actual manufacture of that article to the hands of a
few
capitalists.
•
Such law,
ljowever,
was but of
little
importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling plant
and apparatus
is
tory of flowers
;
not very compatible. with a laborayet, in
some exceptional
instances,
these excise regulations interfered with him; such-,
making soft soap of lard and when perfumed, as Grimed' Amande;
for instance, as that in
potash, known,
or unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream, which has, in
consequence of that law, been entirely thrown into the hands of our continental neighbors.
Fig Soft Soap is a combination of oils, principally commonest kind, with potash. „ .. is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil) and potash, colored brown for the London shavers, retaining, when pure, its unsophisticated “.fishy” olive oil of the ,
Naples Soft Soap
odor.
.
which are mixed
jind
made by
the perfumers,
remelted according to the
fol-
:
The remelting process bar soap
body or base of
constitute the real
the fancy scented soaps as
lowing formula
.
.
.
The above soaps all
is first
is
fixed
The by pressing
exceedingly simple.
cut up into thin slabs,
them against a wire
upon Jhe working benoh.
This cutting wire (piano wire
is
the ljind)
is
made
Digitized by
179
SOAP-MELTING.
taut upon the bench, by being attached to two screws.
These screws regulate the height of the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the slabs from the bars. it
The soap
would be next
is
cut up into thin slabs, because to melt a bar whole,
to impossible
on account of soap being one of the worst conductors .'
of0 heat. m
•
The melting pan
an
is
iron vessel, of various sizes,
capable of holding from 2£
3 cwt., heated by
lbs- to
The soap
a steera jacket, or by a water-bath. into the
pan by degrees, or what
called “rounds,” that
perpendicularly
all
is,
is-
is
put
in the vernacular
the thin slabs are placed
round the Side of
the* pan
;
a few
ounces of water are at the same time introduced, the
steam -of which
assists the melting.
The pan being
covered up, in about half an hour the soap will have
“ run down.” Another round is then introduced, and so continued every half hour until the whole “melting” is finished. The more water a soap contains, the easier is it melted; hence a round of marine soap, or of
new yellow
half the time that
When
it
soap, will run
down
in
requires for old soap.
different soaps are being remelted to
form
one kind when finished, the various sorts are to be inserted Into the
pan
in
alternate rounds, but each
rdund must consist only of One kind, to insure uniformity of condition.
mix
it,
to time
As
the soap melts, in order to
and to break up lumps, &c., “ crutched.” The “ crutch”
or tool for stirring up the soap
pf
its
;
its
it *is is
from time
an instrument
name
is irfdicative
form, a long handle with a short, cross-^an
% 1
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
180 inverted
jq,
curved to
the soaps are required,
all
fit
the curve of the pan.
melted,
it
is
and then the perfume
When
then colored, is
if so.
added, the whole
being thoroughly incorporated with the crutch.
The soap
is
then turned into the “ frame.”
The
'
F«ame and Slab Gauge.
frame
is
a box made in sections, in order that
it
can
be taken to pieces, so that the soap, can be cut up when cold ; the sections Or “ lifts ” are frequently
made
of the width of the intended bar of soap.
Two
or three days after the soap has been in the
frame,
it is
cool enough to cut into slabs of the size
of the
lifts
or sections of the frame
Barring Gauge.
set
up edgeways
to cool for
;
these slabs are
a day or two more
;
it is
Digitized by
'
SOAP-CUTTING.
then barred by means of a wire.
The
lifts
frame regulate the widths of the bars
181
of the
the gauge
;
regulates their breadth.. The density of the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so .that
the soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights six,
;
that
is,
either into squares of four,
or eight to the pound weight.
Latterly, various
Squaring Gauge.
mechanical arrangements have been introduced for soap-cutting, wliich in very large establishments, such
as those ht Marseilles in France, are great economisers
of labor
;
but in England. the â&#x20AC;&#x153; wire â&#x20AC;?
.
Soap Scoop.
For. making tablet shapes the soap
is still
.
used.
.
Hl-L.
is first
cut into
16
Digitized by
Go
THE AHT OF PERFUMERY.
182 squares,
and
is
under a press
modification
“of
an ordinary die or
Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a
coin press. little
then put into a mould, and finally
—a
tool called a
.
“scoop,” made of brass or ivory,
.•
Soap Press.
• .
«
•
% •
being, in fact, a ring-shaped knife.
Balls are also
made in the press with a mould of appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained
Moulds.
The
by the
press and appropriate moulds.
shaped
soaps, after leaving the mould, are dipped .
Lk.
fruit-
1
Digitized
by
Googk
—
ALMOND SOAP.
183
and are then colored according to
into melted wax,
artificial fruit-makers’ rules.
The “ variegated”
•
.
.
colored soaps are produced
by
adding the various colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously
melted state
mixed with water,
to the soap in a
these colors are but slightly crutched
;
hence the streaky appearance or party color of
in,
the soap
this
;
kind
also
is
termed u marbled” soap. •
•
•
.
*
i
e
.
•
t
Almoxd Soap. '
j This soap, i
.
by some persons “ supposed”
sweet almond
to be
made
and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is in reality of
constituted thus
oil,”
:
Finest curd soap,
•
u “ “
•
By
.1 cwt.
.
.
.
.
.
.
14 lbs.
.
.
.
.
.
.
14
.
.
.
.
cloves, •
l
..
,•
marine,
Otto of almonds, .
-
.
oil soap,
•
.
.
'caraway,
.
.
•
.
",
.
.
lbs.
1J lb. |lb..
\.ilb.
•
t
the time that half the curd soap
marine soap
is
to
be added
crutched, then add the
remaining curd.
When
and just before turning the mixed perfume.
oil
;
soap,
when and
the whole it
is
melted, the this
finish
is
well
is
well
with the melted,
into the frame, crutch in .
Some of the soap “ houses” endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial essenceof almonds (sec Almond) for perfuming soap,
true otto of almonds
it ;
being far cheaper than the
but the application has proved
so unsatisfactory in practice, that
it
has been aban-
THE ART OF PERFUMERY. doned by Messrs. Gibbs,. Pincau
and others who used
(of Paris), Gosnell,
it.
Camphor Soap. Curd soap,
.
.
28
.
-1J
Otto of rosemary,
lbs.
l}lb.
Camphor,
Reduce the camphor
lb.
powder by rubbing it in p mortar with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted and ready to turn, out;, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch for mixing. to
Honey Soap. Best yellow soap,
.
1
Fig
.
14
soft soap,
Otto of citronella,
cwt. lbs.
1£
lb.
White Windsor Soap. Curd soap,
Marine soap,
1 cwt. .
Oil soap,
Otto of caraway, *•
lbs. lbs.
1J lb.
thyme,
u
rosemary,
“
claves,
of each,
of each,
Brown Windsor Curd
21
14
soap,'
Marine soap, Yellow soap,
.
.
.
.
Soap. j cwt. *
“ '
i
*
Oil soap,
i
Brown
£ pint.
coloring (caramel),
Digitized by
.
r ."f* PERFUMED
X.
<
thyme,
each,
4
*
r
#
“ %
185
SOAPS.
Otto of caraway,' “ „ cloves,
-
v
*
•
ps
$ lb.
..
.
/cassia,
.
• *
“ “
•
petit grain, ‘
French lavender,
\
%
0
»
.
•
*
i*
Sand Soap.
*
/
Curd soap, Marine soap,
r
.
•'
i
.
•
•
•
•
*
*•
Otto of thyme, cassia,
.
u
•
28
.
.
lbs. #
*.
.
_
7 lbs.
.
.
•
each,
caraway,
“
.
.
7 lbs.
.
»*
^
r-
Sifted silver sand,
*
»
.
.
2 oz.
.
I
.
*/*
French laVender, ,
Fuller’s Earth Soap.
, *
•
Curd soap, . Marine soapj
•
*^
*Fuller'8 earth (baked),
.
Otto of French lavender,
u
origanum,
The above forms are
•
•
.
•
•
*
.
•
•
•
.
•
•
.
i
•
10$ lbs
3$ lbs. 14 lbs. ~ -2
indicative
oz.
1 oz.
.
of the
method
adopted for perfuming soaps while hot or melted. . All the very highly scented soaps are, however,
perfumed
cold, in order to avoid the loss of scent,
per cent* of perfume being evaporated by
the.
20 hot
•process.
The
variously
“ Sultana”
named
from the sublime w Turtle’s Marrow,” we
soaps,
to the ridiculous
cannot of course be expected to notice
;
the reader
may, however, rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission. The receipts given produce only the finest quality *1G
Digitized .
by
<
.....
wJ
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
186
Where cheap soaps arc remuch acumen is necessary' to diseern that
of the; article named. quired, not
by omitting ^he.expensive perfumer, or lessening the quantity, the object desired
attained.
is
lower
Still
made by using
greater
proportions of yellow soap, and employing
a very
qualities of scented soap are
common
curd, o‘mitting the oil soap altogether;
Scenting Soaps hot.
• .
'
%
4
In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scenting soap involved the necessity of melting ‘it.
The high temperature
of the soap under these cir-
cumstances involves the obvious of perfume by evaporation. soaps,
loss of a great deal
With very highly scented
and with perfume of an expensive character, is too great to be borne in a com-
the loss of ottos
mercial sense
;
hence the adoption of the plan of
Scenting Soaps cold.
exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small batches, involving merely mechanical labor, the tools required being simply
This method
is
an ordinary carpenter’s plane, and a good marble mortar, and lignum vitae pestle. The woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at .
each end, so that when placed over the mortar
it
re-
mains firm and not easily moved by the parallel pressure of the soap against
its
projecting blade.
To commence operations, we or 21
lbs.
take
first
of the bars of the soap that
7 lbs., 14dbs., it
is
intended
mor<
eai Digitized by
into fine shavings.
•who does not will
Like the French “ Charhonnier,’
saw the wood, but woods the saw, so
the soap, but that
which
we soap
fall lightly into
duced.
the plane, the shavings of
the mortar as quickly as pro-
*
.
Soap, as generally received from the maker,
proper condition for thus working' f but in
it
be perceived that in this process we do not plane
stock any time
it
When
the
distilled
water
the shaving for every pound of soap
employed, and must hours to
is
has been
becomes too hard, and must
have from One to three ounces of sprinkled in
if it
lay'
for
at
least twenty-four
bet
absorbed before the perfume is“added.
it
is
determined what size the cakes of soap
are to be, what they are to
sell for,
and what.it
is
in-
tended they should cost, then the maker can iheasure out his perfume.
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
188
In a general way* soaps scented in this
from
way
10*. per pound, hearing about
4*. to
cent, profit, which
The soap being
limited sale.
retail
100 per
not too .much -considering their
is
in a proper physical
condition with regard to moisture,
have tho perfume well
stirrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ed into it.
&c.,
is
The
now
to
pestle
is
then set to work fop the process of incorporation.
After a couple of hours of â&#x20AC;&#x153; warm exercise,â&#x20AC;? the soap is
generally expected to be free from streaks, and to
be of one uniform consistency.
For perfuming soap
in large portions
by the. cold and mortar as an more convenient and economical
process, instead of using the 'pestle
incorporator, if
employ a
to
is
mill similar in construction- to a cake
chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill
;
any mechanical
apparatus that anglers for mixing paste and crushing
lumps
will
serve pretty well for blending Soap to-
gether.
Before going into the tnill, the soap is to be .reduced to shavings, and have the scent and oolor stirre.4 in
;
after leaving
the flakes or ribands Of soap are
it,
bound together by the pestle and mortar into one solid mass it is then weighed out in quanto be finally
;
tities for
hand
the tablets required, and moulded by the
into egg-shaped masses
;
each piece being
left
in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet
of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the pregs, which is the same as that previously
mentioned.
It is usual, before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to dust them over with a little starch-powder, or else to very slightly oil the mquld ;
Digitized
—
a
COLORED SOAPS.
189
either of these- plans prevents the soap from adher-
ing to the letters of embossed work of "the mould
—
condition essential for turning out a clean well-struck tablet.
The body
of
the fine soaps mentioned below
all
should" consist of the finest and whitest curd soap, or
of a soap previously melted and colored to the re-
quired shade, thus
:
Rose*colored Soap is curd soap stained with vermilion, ground in water, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted, and not very hot. Green SOAR is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap, to which is added powdered smalt ground with water.
s
Blue Soap, curd
Brown sugar.
soap colored with smalt.
Soap, curd soap with caramel,
The
i.
e.
-burnt
-
.
intensity of color varies, of course, with the
quantity of coloring.
Some a
kinds of soap become eolored or tinted to
by the mere addition of the
sufficient extent
ottos
used fbr scenting, such as ‘Ispermaceti soap,” “lemon
which become of a beautiful pale lemon by the mere mixing of the perfume with the
soap,’’ &c.,
color
'
curd soap.
Otto of Rose Soap/ (
To
retail at
1
Ox.
per pound.)
Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion Otto of rose,
.
•
.
Otto of santal,
“
geranium,
.
...
Spirituous extract of mask,
*
'.
‘
»
-
, -
-1
} lbs.
.
1 oz.
.
2 oz.
.
i oz.
,
i oz.
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
190
Mix
them
the perfumes, stir
and beat together.
in the soapi shavings,
•
Tonquin Musk Soap. Pale brown-colored curd soap,
...
Grain musk, '
•
Otto of bergamot,
Rub
... .
.
.
.
.
*
.
musk with the bergamot, then add
the
and beat up.
soap,
.....
.
.
*
5 lbs.
..."
1 oz.
.
I oz.
t
.-
to the
it
• ,
Orange-Flower Soap.. •
%
Curd. soap,
Otto of
.
.
*
:
.
.
.
.
.
7 lbs.
-.
.
3ioz»
.
A
neroli,
-
Santal-wood Soap. Curd
soap,
.
Otto of santal, . “ bergamot,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
lbs.
$
7 oz.
* _
.
.
«
.
2 oz.
Spermaceti Soap.
Curd soap,
.
Qtto of bergamot,
u
lemon,
...
.
.
.
,
.
.
.
.
.
*
.
.
.
.
.
.
.1,4 lbs.
.
.
2}
.
.
4
Citron Soap. _
Curd soap, Otto of citron, “ verbena (lemon-grass),
u
bergamot,
u
lemon,
One
lbs.
lb.
*
*
•
.
*
•
.
\
of the best of fancy soaps that
6 lbs.
^
^
lb.
4 oz.
4 ‘
.
.
is
made.
.
oz.
2 oz.
\ Digitized by
.
SAPONACEOUS CREAM OF ALMONDS.
191
Frangipanne Soap. Curd sqap (previously colored Civet,
.
—
light brown), •
a
a
Otto of neroH,
.
.
.
.
santal,
.
.
.
a
a
a
U u
Rub
.
rose,
a
a
*•
a
.
1 lbs.
.
^ OZ.
a
a
.
.
.•
.
.
1| oz.
a
,
,
a
J OZ.
$
vitivert,
J oz.
the civet with the various, ottos, mix, and beat
in the usual
...
'
manner.
Patchouly Soap.
•
4* lbs.
Cur<J soap, ”
oz.
'1 oz.
Otto of patchouly,
“
santal,
“
vitivert,
-
| of each,
J oz.
j
Saponaceous Cream or Almonds. 40
The preparation
sold under this title
*
•
.
is
a potash
It h&s a beautiful pearly appear-
soft soap of lard.
met with. extensive demand as a shavBeing also used m the manufacture of
ance, and has
ing soap.
Emulsines, it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by the perfumer. It is made thus :
......
Clarified lard,
-Potash of
lye (containing
tic potash), -
.
.
-a
.
.
Otto of almonds,
.
.
Manipulation
by a
.
;
a •
a
in
lt».
a .
3 oz.
.
2 drachms.
.
.
3j
.
.
’
.
.
— Melt the lard
salt-water bath, or
pressure
26 per cent of caus'
•
Rectified spirit,
—
1 IbS.
a porcelain vessel
by a steam heat under 15
lbs.
then run in the lye, very slowly, agitating
Digitized by
192
ART OF PERFUMERY.
TIIE
when about half
the wliolc time;
mixture begins that
firm
it
it
is
The creme
cannot be stirred.
finished, but is not pearly;
the lye
in,
the
however, become so
to curdle; it will,
will,
is
then
however, assume
that appearance by long trituration in a mortar, gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved
the perfume.
Soap Pownrus.
These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifricoandat others for shaving; they are made by reduc-
,
ing the soap into shavings by a plane, then thoroughly
drying them in
a
mill,
warm
in a
situation, afterwards grinding
then perfuming with any otto desired.
Rypophauon Soap. Best vel!ow soap.
Fig
.soft
Perfume
)'
,
I'tiuai 1
soap,
,
,
parts melted together.
)
with anise and citronella. Ambp.osut. Cbham.
Color the grease very strongly with alkanet root,
then proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous The cream colored in this way has a blue cream. tint; k_.
X
when
merely
it
is
required of a purple color
stain the white saponaceous
to
mixture of vermilion and smalt
Perfume with
to the
we have
cream with a shade desired.
otto of oringeat.
Transpa iu:nt Soft Soap.
s
Solution caustic potash
Olive
oil,
Perfume
.
(
b>nd. PL),
.
.
-
.
fi
.
1
tbs. lb.
to taste.
Digitized by r
JONIPBR TAR SOAP. Before commencing potash lye to one half
Now
193
jto
make
its
bulk by continued boiling.
the soap, reduce the
proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous After standing a few days, pour
cream.
off the
waste
liquor.
Transparent Hard Soap.
Reduce the soap
much
to shavings,
and dry them as
as possible, then dissolve in alcohol, using as
as will effect the solution, then color
little spirit
perfume as desired, and cast the product ate moulds
;
finally
and
in appropri-
dry in a warm situation.
Until the Legislature allows
spirit- -to
be used for
manufacturing purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our neighbors in this article. Juniper Tar Soap.
*
This soap
is
made from
the tar of the wood of the
Jimiperus communis, by dissolving table
oil,
such as almond or olive
it
oil,
in a fixed vege-
Or in'flnO'tallow,
and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye, after-the customary manner. This yields a moderately â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;firm '
and clear soap, which may be readily used by
application to parts affected with eruptions at night,
mixed with a
little
water, and carefully washed off the
following morning.
This soap has lately been
much
used for eruptive disorders, particularly on the Continent,
and with varying degrees of success.
thought that the is
in Paris
of
effieient
element in
its
It
is
composition
a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known
its
under the name huile de cadet
ready miscibility with water,
it
On
account
possesses great
advantage over the common tar ointment, 17
Digitized by
Gbogle
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
104
Mkdicatkd Soaps.
Six years ago I began making a series of medicated
Sulphur Soap, Iodine Soap, Bromine Soap, Creosote Soap, Mercurial Soap* Croton Oil Soap, and many others. These soaps are prepared by adding the medicant to curd soap, For and then making in a -tablet' form for use. sulphur soap, the curd soap may die melted, and soaps, such as
flowers of'sulphur added while the soap
the low oxides of Âťthe metals employed
mixed
in a soft
is
For antimony soap and mercurial soap,
condition.
may
in the curd soap in a melted state.
also be
Iodine*
bromine, creosote soap, and others containing very volatile substances, arc best prepared cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant with it by long beating.
In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they will prove of infinite -service as auxiliaries to the general treatment.
It
is
obvious
that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active
during the lavoratory process therefore,
such -soap must nbt,
boused except by the
medical man.
special advice of
Probably these .soaps
useful for internal
application.
will
a
be found
The precedent of
the use of Castile soap (containing oxide of. iron)
renders
it
likely that
away, such soaps pceias.
when prejudice has
will find
The discovery
passed'
a place in the jaharmaco-
of the solubility, under certain
conditions, of the active alkaloids^uinine, morphia,
by Mr. W. Bastick, greatly /avors the supposition of analogous compounds in soap. &c., in
oil,
t
V. Digitized by
195
AMANDINE.
SECTION *
•
.
'
•
IX.
EMULSINES. /-
•
From
.
•
.
r>
soaps proper ,we
now
pass to those compounds
used as substitutes for soap, which are classed together
ynder one general all
as above, for the reason that
title
coemetiques herein embraced have the property of
forming emulsions with water.
*
•
Chemically considered, they a^e -an exceedingly
and are well worthy might be
interesting class of compounds,
of study.
Being prone
to decomposition, as
expected from their composition, they should be made only in small portions, to
or, at least,
only in quantities
meet a ready sale. While in stock they should be kept as cool as pos-
sible,
and free from a damp atmosphere. Amandine.
Fine almond
oil,
"
•
Simple .syrup,*
White
•
soft soap, Or
saponaceous cream,
.
t. e. 1
“Creme d’Amande, Otto of almonds, “ . bergamot,
“
cloves,
Rub one
oz.
.
0Z ’
.
.
.
. •
1 qz.
.
.
.
.
.
1
.
.
.
i oz.
.
\
oz.
the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture
* Simple-syrup in
4
J
-
*
.
7 lbs.
*
consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for
pint, imperial,
a minute
of distiHed water.
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
196
homogeneous, then rub in the oil by degrees the perfume having been previously mixed with the oil. In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the is
;
difficulty is
to get in
the quantity of
oil
V.
indicated,
does not assume that transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. the oil is put into “ a runner,” that end, this To attain
without which
is,
it
a tin or glass vessel, at the bottom bf which is a The oil being put
small faucet and spigot, or tap. into this vessel in
is
allowed to run slowly into the mortar
which the amandine
is
being made, just as fast as
Oil-Runner in Emultine Process.
the maker finds that he can incorporate paste of soap and syrup
it
with the
and so long as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar •
;
quicker than the workman can blend it with the paste, then the -paste becouios “ oiled,” and may be considered as “ done for,” unless, indeed, the whole process be gone through again, starting off with fresh
syrup and soap, using up the greasy mass as
if it
were
Digitized by
;
OLIVINE.
pure
This liability to
oil.
“go
197 off,” increases as
the
amaitdine nears the finish hence extra caution and plenty of “ elbow grease” must be used during the ad-
pounds of
dition of the last two
If the
oil.
be not
oil
perfectly fresh, or if the temperature of the atmo-
sphere be above the average of summer heat,
be almost impossible to get the whole of the
it
oil
in. the formula into combination;
when the mass
comes bright and of a crystalline
lustre, it will
to stop the further addition of oil to
will
given be-
be well
it.
This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to exclude air.
When
the amandine
face of
it is
marked
into the jars, the top or
is filled
ornamented with a
or
tool
made
to the. size of half the diameter of the interior of the jar, in a
similar
tortoise-shell,
way
saw
to a
a piece of lead or
being serrated with an angular
file,
or
“old saw,” will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, and turn the jar geutly piece of an
round. *
Olivixe.
Gum
*•
acacia, in powdey,
Honey, . . Yolk .of eggs, in number, White soft soap.
.
6 oz.
.
5.
•
.
3 oz.
#
.
2 lbs.
.
Olive
Green
oil,
2"oz.
.
•
• 0
•
• **
.. '
oil,
Otto of bergamot,
.
1 oz.
.
t oz.
.
1
-
'
“ “
lemon,
.:
cloves,
.
“
thyme and cassia Gach,
.
•
*.
.
.
!
.
'
oz.
i oz. £
drachm.
17*
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY,
198
Rub the gum and honey
'
together until incorporated,
then add the soap and egg. Having mixed the green is to oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the mixture be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly as indicated for amandine. •
Honey and Almond
.
• .
(Pate
Paste.
Bitter almonds, blanched and ground,
Honey, Yolk of eggs, in number,
Almond
#
1
..
* .
«
d Amande au Mid.) •
.i lb.
*.
1 lh.
•
8.
...
.
*
_
1 lb.
oil,
'1 ozj
Otto of bergamot,
H
-
__
i oz.
cloves,
*
\
Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and finally the ground almonds and the perfume.
Almond Paste. Bitter almonds, blanched
Rose-water,
Alcohol (60
.
o. p.),
ahd ground,
...
.'
1#
.
.
•
•.
.
•
•
.
•
lb.
H pint. 16 oz*
3 oz.
Otto of bergamot,
Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-
water into a stewpan
;
with a slow and steady heat,
cook the almonds until their granular texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the
bottom of the pan, and imparb to the whole an
empyreumatiq odor.
The large quantity of
otto of
volatilized during the process,
almonds which
renders
it
is
essential
Digitized by
PISTACHIO NUT MEAL.
199
that the operator should avoid the vapor as
much
as
possible.
When
the almonds are nearly cooked, the remain-
ing water
added finally the paste is put and .well rubbed with the pestle; then the perfume and spirit .are added. Before potting is
to be
;
into a mortar,
this paste, as well as
through a medium
honey
paste,
it
should be passed
fine sieve, to insure
uniformity of
texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly.
Other pastes, such as Pdte de Pistache, Pdte de
Pdte de Guimauve, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not bo Cocos,
confounded with preparations bearing a similar name
made by
confectioners.
Almond Meat Ground almonds, Wheat flour,
.
.
.
.
.
.
Orris-root powder,
Otto of lemon, â&#x20AC;&#x153;
.
.
almonds,-.
Pistachio
1
.
i oz.
.
J drachm.
Nut Meal, or any other Nut.
Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds j
are bleached),
.
.
.
*
^
1 lb.
-.1
Otto of neroli, 11
.
lemons,
^
)
.
Orris powder,
.
lb.
Jib/'
'
.
1 lb.
.
.
.
.
.
.
drachm.
ÂŁ oz.
Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are occasionally in demand, and are pre-
pared as the foregoing.
Digitized by
Go
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
200
All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory
process
“ render the
as
substitutes
and
skin pliant, soft,
for fair
and
soap,
to
!”
Emulsin au Jasmix. Saponaceous cream,
.
.
.
.
.
Simple syrup,
.
Almond
.
.
'
.
.
.
1 oz.
1$ oz.
'
oil,
Best jasmine
'
•
.
.
.
.
.
.
..
1 lb.
'
oil,
.
•
.
.
J
lb.
Emulsjx a le Violette.. Saponaceous cream, ,
Syrup of
Etnulsin
%
.
'
.
.
.
.
.
.
violets)
Best violet
oil,
of,
1 oz.
li.oz. .
other
... odors
1J
lb.
can be prepared with
tubereuse, rose, or cassie (acacia)
oil
(prepared by
enfleurage or maceration).
For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see “ Amandine,” p. 195.
•
•
On
account of the high price of the French .
oils,
these preparations are expensive, but they are un-
doubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques.
Digitized by
201
EMULSIONS.
SECTION
X.
“N
MILK, OR EMULSIONS.
In the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready Sale than that class of cosmetiques denominated milks. It has long been known that nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts, when decorticated and freed from their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and rubbed with about four times their weight of water, produce fluid which has
every analogy to cow’s milk. of these emulsions
is
from the nuts being diffused
division of the oil derived
through the water.
The milky appearance
due to the minute mechanical
All these emulsions possess great
chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition, tion,
and the products emanating from their fermentaespecially that made with sweet almonds and
pistachios {Pistachio, vera ).
In the manufacture of various milks for manipulation
is
these emulsions
sale, careful
of the utmost importance, otherwise
“ will not keep
profit. (
hence more loss than
;
“ Transformation takes place In the elements of vegetable caseine (existing in seeds) from the very
moment
that sweet almonds are converted into almond-milk.”
—Liebig.
This accounts for the difficulty
many
per-
sons find in making milk of almonds that does not
spontaneously divide, a day or so after ture.
*
'
its
manufac-
’
Digitized by
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
202
.
Milk of Roses.
Valencia almonds (blanched),
.
.
.
Rose-water,
.
Alcohol (GO Otto of rose,
'
J lb. 1
1
White wax, spermaceti,
Manipulation
.
quart.
1 pint.
o. p.),
soap, each,
oil
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Shave up the
.
.
drachm.
4 oz.
soap, and place
it
in
a vessel that can be heated by steam or water-bath
add
to
it
the soap
two or three ounces of rose-water. is
perfectly melted, add the
obtain the correct weight slowly, tion
wax
without dividing them, more than
ceti,
and
;
is
When
and., sperma-
necessary to
this insures their melting
allows time for their partial saponifica-
by the fluid soap occasional stirring is necesWhile this is going on, blanch the almonds, ;
sary.
carefully excluding every particle that
Now
way damaged. in a
is
in the least
proceed to beat up the almonds
scrupulously clean mortar, allowing the rose-
water to trickle into the mass by degrees as used for the
oil in
When
almonds
to
is
;
the runner,
the manufacture of olivine,
convenient for this purpose. thus finished,
it is
is
very
the emulsion of
be strained, 'without
pressure through clean washed muslin {nev) muslin ,
often contains starch, flour,
gum, or
dextrine).
The previously-formed saponaceous mixture to be placed in
emulsion in the runner emulsion
is
*
now
is
the mortar, and the ready-formed ;
the soapy
compound and
the
As
the
then carefully blended together.
last of the emulsion rune into the mortar, the spirit,
in
which the otto of roses has been dissolved,
take
its
place,
and
to be
is
to
gradually trickled into the
Digitized by
MILK QF ALMONDS.
A
other ingredients.
too sudden
spirit frequently coagulates the milk
he curdled
as
;
it
is,
203 addition of the
and causes
to
it
the temperature of the mixture
and every means must be taken to keep it down the constant agitation and cold mortar effect-
rises,
1
;
ing that object pretty well. Finally, the now formed milk of roses i3 to bte strained.
The almond residue tnay bo washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water, in order to prevent any in' bulk to the whole given quantity. The newly-
loss
formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a it about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. After standing perfectly quiet for twenty-four hours -
tap in
it is fit
AH
to bottle.
the above precautions being
taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without precipitate or'
creamy supernatation.
These direc-
tions apply to all the other forms of milk
now
given.
Milk of Almonds. Bitter almonds (blanched),
.
Distilled (or rose) water,
.
1
Alcohol (60 o
.'
J pint.*
.
J dl-achm.
p,),
Otto of almonds,
“
Wax,
bergamot,
.... ..... ..... .
.
.
"
1
0 oz.
quart.
.
2 drachms.
.
1
oz.
.
4
oz.
.
1
pint
.
f
spermaceti,
Alpiond
oil,
;
)
’
curd soap, j
. •
Milk of Elder.
•
Sweet almonds,
."
.
Elder-flower water,
.
Alcohol (60
.
.
•
’
.
8 oz.
Oil of elder flowers, prepared by maceration,
.
i oz.
Wax, sperm,
.
o. p.),
£bap, each,
.
.
.
* The imperial measure only
.
is
.
recognized
among
J oz.
perfumers.
Digitized by C
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
204
Milk of Dandelion. Sweet almonds, Rose-water,
Expressed juice of dandelion Esprit tubereuse,
Green oil, wax, n i Cura soap,
.’
....... .
1
root,
4
OZ.
.
1 pint
.
1 oz.
...
.
.
.
8
•
•
•
.
i oz.
oz*.
,
CftClIj
r
•
j
Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh -
pressed
;
as
it is
in itself
an emulsion,
it
may
be put
into the mortar after the alpionds are broken up,
and
stirred with the water
spirit in the usual
and
manner.
Milk of Cucumbbr. Sweet almonds,
.
.
,
Expressed juice of cucumbers,
.
4
oz.
.
1
pint.
8
oz.'
Spirit (60 o. p.),
Essence of cucumbers,
Green
oil,
wax,
i pint
each,
i oz.
.
Curd soap.
Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute, cool
it
as quickly as possible, then
strain through fine muslin; proceed to manipulate in
the usual manner.
Essence of Cucumbers.
Break up bers
;
in a
mortar 28
spirit (sp. gr. *837),
for a off
lbs. of
good fresh cucum-
with the pulp produced np x 2 pints rectified
day and night
a pint and a
and allow the mixture
;
half..
then
distil
The
to
the whole, and
distillation
tinued so as to obtain another pint
fit
may
stand
draw
be con-
for ulterior
purposes.
Digitized by
EXTRACT OP ELDER FLOWERS.
205
\
Creme de Pistache.
{Milk of Pistachio Nuts.)
....
Pistqchio nuts,
Orange-flower water, Esprit neroli,
Palm Green
soap, oil,
.
.
each,
.
.
3£
.
.
pints.
pint.
.
i
.
1 oz.
I
waxA
Spermaceti,
.3 oz*
. '.
.
J
Lait Virginal. Rose-water,
......
Tincture benzoin,
Add
.
.
.
.
.
1 quart.
.
.
.
£ oz.
the water very slowly to the tincture
doing an opalescent milky
fluid is
will retain its consistency for
;
by
so
produced, which
many
years
;
by
re-
versing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, a cloudy precipitate of the
pended
resinous matter
again become readily sus-
ensues, which does not in the water. %
Extract of Elder Flowers. Elder-flower water,
Tincture benzoin,
.
....
1 .
quart.
1 oz.
Manipulate as for virgin’s milk. Similar compounds may, of course, be
made with
orange-flower and 6ther waters.
18
Digitized by
V
TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.
206
SECTION
XI.
COLD CREAM.
Galen, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in who distinguished' himself at Athens, AlexRome, about 17Q0 years ago, was the
Asia, but
andria, and
inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease
and water, which is now distinguished as cold cream perfumery, and as Ceratum Galeni in Pharmacy.
in
The modern formula
for cold
cream
however,
is,
quite a different thing to that given in the works of
Galen
odor and quality, although sub-
in point of
same
stantially the
—grease
and
In
water.
per-
fumery there are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor,, such as that of camphor,
almond,
violet, roses, &c.
Cold cream, as made by
English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at
home, but throughout Europe
;
the quantity ex-
ported, and which can only be reckoned
by
jars in
hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements
may
that
be seen in the shops on the Continent, in
Germany, France, Anglaise,”
is
and
Italy,
of
“ Cold
good proof of the estimation 1
it is
held.
*
Creme in
which
.
Rose Cold Cueam.
4
Almond
oil,
Rose-water,
White wax, Spermaceti,
Otto of
.
.
)
^
1
lb^
1
lb.
,
.
’
t oz.
]
roses,
i
drachm.
Digitized by
:
207
COLD CREAM MANIPULATION. Manipulation
.
— Into a well-glazed thick porcelain
which should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm ; now vessel,
when these ; and again subject heat until the flocks of wax and sperm now remove the jar and contents, and
put the jar into a boiling bath of water materials are melted, add the
the whole to are liquefied set
it
oil,
;
under a runner containing the rose-water
the runner
may be
a tin can, with a small tap at the
bottom, the same as used for the manufacture of * ' •
«
A stirrer must be provided, made of and perforated with holes the size of
milk of roses. lancewQod,
flat,
a sixpence, resembling
As
in
soon as the rose-water
must be kept agitated has passed into
it
form a large palette-knife. is
whole of the water
now and then
;
cream
set running, the
until the
the flow of water
must he stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down, and incorporated with that which remains fluid.
When
the whole of the
Water has been incorporated, the cream
enough
to
the otto of rose
is
perfume being put
—the
will
be cool
pour into the jars for sale; at that time to be added. in at the last
The reason moment is
heat and subsequent agitation
unnecessary loss by evaporation.
for the
obvious
would
caaisc
Cold cream made
way sets quite firmly in the jars into which it poured, and retains “ a face” resembling pure wax,
in this is
although one-half of the cream.
is
water retained
When
in the interstices
the pots are well glazed,
keep good for one or two years.
it
will
If desired for ex-
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
208
portation to the East.or
W est Indies,
it
should always
be sent out in stoppered bottles.
'
Cold Cream of Almokds Is prepared precisely as the above otto of roses otto of almonds
but in place of
;
used.
is
Violet Cold -Cream. Huile
violette,
Rose-water,
Wax
....
.
Otto of almonds,
oil,
lb.
5 drops.
.
.
.
1 oz.
.
Violet Cold Cream.
Almond
1 lb.
'1
.
and spermaceti, each,
.
Imitation.
.
.
$lb.
.
ilb.
.
lib.
'
Huile cassie, Rose-water,
-
.
Sperm and wax,
.
1.
oz.
Otto of almonds,
.
I
drachm.
This
is
an elegant and economical preparation, gene-
rally admired.
Tdbereuse, Jasmine, and Fleur dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orange Cold Creams.
Are prepared they are cost
all
in similar
manner
to violet (first form)
very exquisite preparations, but as they
more than rose cold cream, perfumers are not inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter.
much
Camphor Cold Cream. Almond
oil,
Rose-water,
.
.
-
.
Wax
and Spermaceti, Camphor, . ÂŤ Otto of rosemary,
(
Otherwise
Camphor .
.
Ice )
1 lb. 1 lb.
.
1 oz.
.
2 oz
.
1
drachm.
Digitized by
CUCUMBER
COLI>
209
CREAM.
Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the
oil,
then
manipulate as for cold cream of roses.
Cucumber Cold Cream. \
(
Crime de Concombre.)
.
*
Almond Green
1 lb.
oil,
oil,
.
.’
.
•
.
.
.
.
Juice of cucumber,'
Wax
and sperm, each,
Otto of neroli,
The cucumber
.
1 oz.
1 lb. .
•
.
.
.
.
juice
1 oz.
.
J drachm.
•’
is
readily obtained
by sub-
jecting the fruit to pressure in the ordinary tincture press.
It
enough
must be raised
to a
temperature high
albumen and then strained through fine the heat is detrimental to the odor on
to coagulate the small portion of
which
it
linen,
as
contains,
account of the great volatility of the otto of cu-
cumber.
The following method may be adopted
with advantage
Slice the fruit very fine with a
cucumber-cutter, and place them in the
oil
;
after
remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation, using fresh fruit in the strained
oil
;
no
warmth is necessary, or at most, not more than a summer heat then proceed to make the cold cream in the usual manner, using the almond oil. thus odorized, the rose-water, and other ingredients in the ;
regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with a
little
,
neroli.
Another and commoner preparati6n of cucumber is
found among the Parisians, which
scented with- the juice from the
is
fruit,
lard simply
thus:
—The
18 *
Digitized by
— THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
210 lard
liquefied
is
by heat
in a vessel subject to a water-
bath; the cucumber juice
then stirred well into
is
the vessel containing the ingredients
The
in a quiet situation to cool.
the surface, and the fluid juice
;
when
is
it;
now placed
lard will rise to
cold must be removed frotn
the same manipulation being repeated
as required, according to the strength of
as often
odor of the
fruit desired in the grease. §
Piters’
Benzoinated lard,
Pomade of Cucumber. .-
.
.
.
.
.6 lbs.
.
Spermaceti,
2 lbs.
Essence of cucumbers,
.
'
1 lb.
-.
Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep stantly in motion while it cools,
now beat
in a mortar, gradually adding the essence of
bers
con-
cucum-
continue to beat the whole until the spirit is
;
evaporated, and the
pomade
is
Melons and other similar .
it
the grease
treated in the same way. bers,” p. 204.)
beautifully white.
scent grease
fruit will
(Se& “ Essence of Cucum-
*
.
.
Pomade Divine.
Among pomade
the thous^bd- and
one quack nostrums,
powder^ has obtained a
divine, like James’s
reputation far above the most sanguine expectations
of
its
This article strictly belongs to the
concoctors.
druggist, being sold as a remedial agent less,
what'
fumer.
is
It
sold
is
is
;
neverthe-
almost always vended by the per-
prepared thus
:
Digitized by
CAMPHOR PASTE.
.... ..... ....
Spermaceti,
Lard,
Almond
Gum
..
211
•.
.
.
”.
.
.
'
ilb.
.
.Jib.
oil,
benzoin,
.
.
Vahilla beans,
.
_
ilb.
.
1J oz.
..
Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature qot exceeding 90° C. six hours
it is fit
strain,
to
After
(Must he stamped
the bottles for sale.
five or
and may be poured into if its
medi-
cinal qualities are stated.) •
Almond Balls. Purified suet,
.
White wax, Otto of almonds,
u
cloves,
•
.
• •
•
we* •
•
•
.
i
.
J lb.
.
.
.
iii.
1
drachm.
i
drachm.
Camphor Balls.
.
Purified suet,
•
•
•
•
•
•
Both the above
articles are
the- material is cast in a
*
.
.
J oz.
Jib. lb.
sold either white or
When
thoroughly melted,
mould; ounce gallipots with
smooth bottoms answer very well
Some venders
1 lb.
.
,
.
colored with alkanet root.
.
.
•
•
* White wax, Camphor, Otto of French lavender or rosemary,
for
casting in.
use only large pill-boxes.
Camphor Paste. Sweet almond
J lb.
oil,
Purified lard,
Wax
and spermaceti, Camphor, .
i each,
lb.
1 oz.
f Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
212
Glycckike Balsam. White wax, oz.
.
1
.
Jib.
.
2 oz.
.
1 drachm.
Spermaceti,
Almond
oil,
Glycerine,
.
•
Otto of roses,
Of
the remedial action of
.
above pre-
'of the
we cannot here discuss ; in giving the forenough for us that they are sold by per-
parations mulae,
any
it is
fumers.
•
Rose Lir Salve.
Almond
oil,
.
.
Spermaceti and wax, each,
Alkanet
-
•
..... .
.
.
.
J lb.
.
.
2 oz. 2 oz.
root,
Otto of roses,
‘
Place the wax, sperm, and
oil
1 drachm.
on. to the alkanet
root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath
;
after
the materials are melted, they must digest on the
alkanet to extract
hours
its color for at least
finally, strain
;
through
four or five
fine muslin,
then add
the perfume just before it cools.
White Lip Salve. Almond
Wax
pil,
.
.
v
.
“
gerani\un,
After ‘old,
.
lip salve
is
.
.
J U>. J oz.
.
J
.
and Spermaceti, each,
Otto of almonds, •
•
1
.
drachm. “
,
poured into the pots and got
a red-hot iron must be held oyer them for a
nutc or
so, in
order that the heat radiated from
Digitized by
213
LIP SALVE.
the irons it
may
an even
melt the surfage of the salve and give
face. n
Common Lip Salve Is
made simply
of equal parts of lard and suet, colored
with alkanet root, and perfumed
gamot
to
vjith
an ounce of ber-
every pound of shIvq.
r
i
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
214
"
The name
of
XII.
POMADES AND
•
apple, because
SECTION
pomatum
it
is
OILS7
derived from po?num , an
was originally made by macerating
over-ripe apples in grease.
If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves, then
exposed to the
air for
a few days, and
afterwards macerated in purified melted lard, or any other fatty matter, the grease will become perfumed.
Repeating the operation with the same grease several times, produces real
*(
pomatum.”
According to a recipe published more than a century ago
orange
the
form given
is
:
— “ Kid’s
an
grease,
sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water,
and half
a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last
The
sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds.” Dr. Quincy, observes, that “ the apple
is
nificance at all in the recipe,” and, like
many authors
author,
of no sig-
of the present day, concludes that the reader
is
well acquainted with the subject as the writer,
as
and
therefore considers that the weights or bulk of the
materials in iiis recipe are, likewise, of no significance.
According to ancient writers, ointment, are synonymous
perfumed greases.
Among
unguent, pomatum,
titles for
medicated and
biblical interpreters, the
word is mostly rendered “ ointment;” thus we have in Prov. 27 9, “ Ointment and perfume re-: significant
:
Digitized by
215
SCENTLESS GREASE. joicc the heart;” in Eccles. 9
“Let thy head
8,
:
lack
...
no ointment.”
Perfumers, acting upon their
own
or Dr. Quincy's
pay no regard to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of advice,
them or
blended,
all
name
according to the
to-
produce a particular result,
that
it
The mo3t important thing facture of'potnatum, &c.,
is
bears.
-
to start off with a perfectly
inodorous grease, whptevey that grease
Inodorous lard
obtained thus
is
manu-
to Consider in the
of perfectly fresh lard, place
it
:
may
be.
—Take, say 28
lbs.
in a well-glazed vessel,
that can be submitted to the heat of a boiling salt-
water bath, or by -steam under a slight pressure the lard
is
melted, add to
it
alum and two ounces of table for
some time,
in fact
till
;
when
one ounce of powdered salt
a scum
;
maintain the heat
rises, consisting in
a great measure of coagulated proteine compounds,
membrane,
&c.,
which must be skimmed
off
;
the liquid grease appears of a uniform nature
when it is
allowed to grow- cold.
The
lard
is.
now
to be washed.
This
is
done in
is a work of much labor, amply repaid by the result. About
small portions at a time, and which; however,
is
a pound of the grease little
on the
incline,
to trickle over
it
;
is
now placed on a
slate slab
a
a supply of good water being set the surfaoe of the grease
is
then
constantly renewed by an operative working a muller
over in oil.
it,
precisely as
In
this
way
a
color-maker grinds paints
the water removes any traces of
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
216 alum or
salt,
matter.
Washed
in this
the
also
the
Finally,
way,
is
last
traces of nitrogenous
when the whole
grease,
cold
is
remelted, the heat being main-
When
tained enough to drive off any adhering water. finished.
it is
Although purifying grease
way
in this
trouble-
is
some, and takes a good deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for
perfuming with flowers, be-
cause a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cov6r
mal odeur than the expense of thus deodorizing
its
Moreover,
it.
pig,”
it
is
if
lard be used that
“ smells of
next to -impossible to impart to
delicate odor
;
and
if
the
any
it
strongly perfumed by the addi-
tion of ottos, the unpurified grease will not keep, but
quickly becomes rancid. therefore, grease that
is
Under any
circumstances,
not 'perfectly inodorous
is
a
very expensive material to use in the manufacture of
pomades.
• .
v
In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are
made by Enfleurage,
Maceration’* (see pp. 37,
or by
38), the purification of
grease for the purpose of these manufactures sufficient
The
•
importance to become
purification of beef
a.
great measure the Same as that for lard solidity pf suets requires a
for
is
of
separate trade.
nnd mutton :
suet
is
in a
the greater
mechanical arrangement
washing them of a more powerful nature than can
be applied by hand labor.
Mr. Ewen,' who
is
undoubt-
edly the best fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating •
upon a circular slab
Annals of Pharmacy,
vol,
ii,
;
motion
is
given
pp. 168, 169.
Digitized by
%
217
CASSIB POMADE. to the roller
by an axle which passes through the
centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which
the suet is placed
;
being higher in the centre than at
the sides, the stream of water flows away after
once passed over the suet ; in
ment
the same as for lard.
is
otfier respects
it
has
the treat-
These greases used by
title of “ body,” tantamount French nomenclature of corps; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft corps (lard). For making extraits such as extrait de violette, jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred but when scented pomade is to be used in
perfumers have a general to the
,
;
fabrication of unguents for the hair,
pomades of
soft
corps are the most useful.
The method .of perfuming grease by the
direct pro-
cess with flowers having already been described under
the respective names of the flowers that impart' the
odor thereto,
it
remains now only to describe those
compounds that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected with this branch of
perfumery as has not been previously mentioned. Acacia- Pomade, commonly called Cassie Poma•
made with
a purified body-grease, by macera-
tion with the little
round yellow buds of the Acacia
tum,
is
'
*
Famesiana. Black ourrant cassie,
leaves,
•*“
and which the French term
have an odor very much resembling cassie
(acacia),
and are used extensively
true acacia pomades and
oils.
for adulterating the
The near
similarity of
name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical connection), together with 19
the
word
.
Digitized by
TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.
218
cassia a familiar perfume in England, lias produced ,
generally confused ideas in this country as to the true origin of the odor casse, cassia,
and
;
more perspicuous
now under
in future, the materials will if
dis-
always
prepared from the Acacia
Famesiana; Casse, when from if
Cassie,
render the matter
in order to
be denominated Acacia, Cassia,
discussion.
be understood now, are three
will
it
tinct substances
black currant; and
derived from the bark of the
Qinnamomum
Cassia.
Benzoin Pomade an6 Oil. ;
Benzoic acid
is
perfectly soluble
in hot grease,
llalf an ounce of benzoic acid being dissolved in half
a pint. of hot olive or almond
oil,
deposits on cooling
beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals that effloresce
from vanilla beans
a portion of the acid,
;
however, remains dissolved. ,in the temperature, and imparts to
benzoin
;
upon
this idea is
it
oil at
the ordinary
the peculiar
aroma
of
based the principle Qf per-
gum benzoin by the direct process, by macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted
fuming grease with that
is,
suet or lard for a few hour's, at a temperature of about
80° C. their
to
90° C.
*
odoriferous
treated in the same
Nearly
all
principle
way
;
the gum-resins.give up to
this fact
fatty bodies,
when
becoming generally
known, will probably give rise to the -preparation of some new â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;remedial ointments, such as Unguentum myrrhee , Unguentum assafaetida, and the like.
Tonquin Pomade, and Tonquin Oil, are prepared by macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either
Digitized by
bear’s grease. melted fat or
warm
oil,
219
from twelve to twenty-eight
hours, in the proportion of
.-.Jib.
Tonquin beans, Fat or
oil,
.
.
.
.
.
Strain through fine muslin will
;
when
4
.
.
lbs.
cold, the grease
have a fine odor of the beans. Vanilla Oil and Pomade.
Vanilla pods,
Fat or
'
$ lb.
4 lbs.
oil,
•
Macerate at a temperature of 25° C. for three or four days ; finally strain. , *
These pomatums and
oils,
together with the French
pomades' and huiles already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of greases sold by perfumers.
tums and wax, in
oil,
are prepared
oils
&c., with various ottos
many instances more
all
the best hair
Inferior scented
by perfuming ;
poma-
latd, suet,
the results, however,
expensive. thaji the foregoing,
are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet grease, however slightly perfumed
—for
by maceration or
enflenrage with flowers, is far more agreeable to the
when scented by ottos. The undermentioned greases have obtained great
olfactqry nerve than
•
popularity, mainly because their perfume
is
lasting
and flowery. Pomade called Bear’s Grease. I
.
The most popular and “ made thus :
—
original” bears’ grease
is
.
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
220
Huile de rose, u fleur d’orange, “ aciicm, 11
•>
of each,
tubereuse and jasmin,
Almond
....
oil,
Lard,
.
.
.
Otto of bergamot, “ cloves, .
Melt the
solid greases
and
Jib.
•
•
.
10
•
•
•
.
12 lbs.
•
•
•
.
2 lbs.
•
•
•
.
4 oz.
•
•
•
•
.
Acacia pomade,
.'
.
J
lbs.
2 oz.
-.
together by a water-
oils
bath, then add the ottos.
Bears’ grease thus prepared
“ set”
if
is
summer
in the pots at a
weather, or
just hard
enough to
In very
heat.
warm
required for exportation to the East or
West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums instead of oils, or more lard and less almond «a. Circassian Cream.•
Purified lard,
Benzoin
.
.
Almond •
.
.
.
.
"
v
.
oil,
1 lb.
.
suet,
1 lb.
.
French rose pomatum-,
colored with alkanet,
.
*
.
.
.
J lb.
.
.
-2 lbs.
Otto of rose,
-
J oz. •
•
Balsam of Flowers. French rose pomatum, u violet pomatum,
.
Almond
...
oil,
.
Otto of bergamot,
.
12 oz. . .
.
.
.
.
.12
oz.
-
2 lbs.
.
•
J,oz. •
«»
Crystallized Oil. Huile de rose, . “ tubereuse, u flcur d’orange, Spermaceti,
.
(First quality }. .
.
.
.
.
^
.
. '
.
.
.
1 lb.
.
.
.
1 lb.
.
.
.
} lb.
.
.
8 oz.
Digitized by
MARROW CREAM. Crystallized Oil.
221
Second quality.) (
Almond,
.
;
.
.
...
.
Spermaceti,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Otto of lemon,
.
.
.
.
.
»
2i
.
i
lbs. lb.
3 oz.
Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a waterbath, then
add the
flocks disappear
he warm
;
;
oils
continue the heat until
;
let the jars into
which
it
is
good
mass congeals without
crystals; if cooled rapidly, the
the appearance of crystals.
all
pour«d
cool as slowly as possible, to insure
This preparation has a
very nice appearance, and so far
sells well
;
but
its
continued use for anointing the hair renders the head scurfy
;
indeed, the crystals of sperm
out of the hair in flakes after
it
may
be combed
has been used a week
Or two. Castor Oil Pomatum. Tubereuse pomatum, Castor
oil,
Almond
.
.
Otto of bergamot,
*
.
.
...
oil,
,
.
.
.
.
<
'
.
-
.
.
.
.
lib.
.
.-
.
•.
. .
i lb.
.
i
.
1 oz.
lb.
Balsam op Neroli. French rose pomatum, “ jasmine pomatum,
Almond
oil,
.
•
.
.
.•
.
‘
i
\
.
.
i lb.
.
.
i lb.
...
.
#lb‘.
.
1
.
1 lb.
.i
.
.
.
Otto of neroli,
•
drachm.
Marrow Cream. Purified lard,
.
.Almond oil, Palm oil, ...
...
.
Otto of cloves, “ bergamot,
lemon,
.
,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
f .
,
.
.
. .
.
1
.
.
.
1 lb.
1 oz.
i drachm.
i oz. •!
i oz..
!)*
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
222
Marrow Pomatum. Purified lard,
“
.
suet,
•.
.
Otto of lemon, “ bergamot, “ cloves,
r.
,
•
.
.
.
....
.
'
.
4
lbs.
.
2 lbs.
.
1 oz.
.
$ oz.
.
3 drachms.
Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula for half an hour Qr more ; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only indrease the hulk of the mixtures, hut impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation; rendering the
pomatum
this state it is obvious that it
^
than otherwise.
light
fills
and spongy
;
in
out- more profitably
*
Common Violet Pomatum. Purified lard,
.
.
.
.
.
1 lb.
.
Washed acacia pomatum, “
rose pomatuiii,
6 oz.
.
,
.
.
.
4
.
oz.
r
Manipulate as for marrow pomatum. ^
In
all
•
the cheap
preparations for
the
hair, the
manufacturing perfumers used the washed French
pomatums and the washed French, oils for making their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that originally havo been the best
pomatums and
huiles prepared -by enfleurage
and by
maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles
have been subject to digestion in alcohol for
the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief.
After the
poured
k;.
off
spirit ;
has been on the pomatums, &c.,
the residue
is
it is
then called mashed poma-
Digitized by
22S
PHILOCOME.
and still retain an odor strong enongh manufacture of most hair greases.
turn,
For pomatums of
other, odors
is
it
for the
only necessary
to substitute rose, jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in
place of the acacia
pomatum
Pomade Double^
in the
above formulae.
Milleflettbs.
Rose, jasmine, fleur d’orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are
all
made
in winter, with two-thirds best
pomatum, one-third best French
oils;
French
in summer,
equal parts.' "
•
Pomade a la Heliotrope.
French rose pomade, Vanilla
...
oil,
.
.
;
.
.
.
Haile de jasnyne,
“
,
“
tubereuse,
.
.
fleur d’orange,
.
Otto of almonds,
“
cloves,
.
(
Jib.
.
4 oz. 2 oz.
.
.
2 oz.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.3 drops.
.
Huile Antique.
1 lb.
.
.
.
A
*
6 drops.
la Heliotrope.)
Same- as the above, substituting rose
oil
for the
pomade. ‘
PHrLOCOME.
The name of
.
this preparation,
which
of Greek and Latin, signifying “ a hair,” was first introduced
and a very good name
is
.
a compound
ftiend to
the
by the Parisian perfumers;
it
is,
for Philocome.is un-
doubtedly one of the best unguents for the hair that is
made.
'
* ^Digitized by
A Google
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
224
Fitilocome.
White wax, Fresh
.
rose-oil,
First quality.) •
10 oz.
•
i lb.
.
•
1 lb.
.
acacia
“
(
.
.
oil,
i
.
.
lb.
'
jasmine
oil,
“
ffcur
“
tubereuse
•
.
d’orange
•
oil,
.
•
•
1 lb.
.
*
1 lb.
oil,
Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath at the lowest possible temperature. - Stir the mixture as it do not pour out the Philocome until
cools;
it
is
nearly cool enough to set; let the jars* bottles, or pots into which
it is filled
be slightly warmed,
for sale
same temperature
or at least of the
as the Philocome,
otherwise the bottles chill the material as in,
and make
Philocome. White wax,
Almond
oil,
it is
poured
appear of an uneven texture.
it
(
Second quality ,)
»•
*
1
.
* .
.
.
Otto of bergamot,
“
lemon,
“
lavender,
“
cloves,
.
5 oz. 2 lbs. oz.
1
oN
.
.
’.
•
.
2 drachms.
drachm.
1
Fluid Philocome.
Take 1 ounce of wax
to 1
Pommade HoVsroise. Lead
plaster,
Acacia
hnile,
T
•
pound of (
For
•
oil.
the Moustache.)
•
•
•
.
.
•
*
a
.
' .
Otto of roses, s “ cloves, .• M almonds,
-•
•
.
1 lb.
.
.
2 oz.
M
.
2
.
1
.
1
.
drachms drachm. drachm.
Digitized by
BLACK COSMETIQUE.
225
Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in
oil
mix the ingredients by
;
first
made with oxide best
to-
melting the
Lead
plaster in a vessel in boiling water.
of lead boiled with olive
procure
plaster oil
is
it is
:
ready made from the wholesale
it
druggists.
Hard or Purified .suet,
.
.
Stick Pomatums. .
.
.
White wax, Jasmine pomatum, . Tubereuse pomatum, Otto of rose,
.... •••.,.
.
.
Another Form,
.
'
.
.
.
Otto of bergamot,
“
cassia,
The
above
Brown They
.
•
.
’.
.
.
recipes
i lb.
.
} lb.
.
1
drachm.
.
1
lb. lb.
•
•
... .
1 lb.
.
—cheaper.
Suet,
Wax,
lib.
.
.
.
.
I
.
1 oz.
.
1
drachm.
White Batons.
produce
Black Batons are also in demand.' made in tho same way as the above, but
-and
are
lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such colors are best purchased ready ground at an colored with
artist’s colorman’s.
-
Black and Brown Cosmeticjuk.
Such
as
is
sold
by Rimmel,
is
prepared with a
nicelyrscented soap strongly colored with lamp-black
or with umber.
The soap
ing added while the soap
up in oblong
is
is
raeltecf,
soft
;
pieces.
It is used as a
and the
when cold
color-
it is
cut
.
temporary dye for the moustache,
applied with a small brush and water.
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
226
SECTION •
XIII. '
*
•
UAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY.
By way of
of personal adornment, few practices are
more ancient
origin than that of painting the face,
dyeing the hair, anjd blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes. It is
a practice universal among the
women
of the
higher and middle classes in Egypt, and very com-
mon among
those of the lower orders, to blacken the
edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye,
The
with a black powder, which they term kohhl.
kohhl
is
applied with a small probe of wood, ivory,
or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. is
This
moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped
in the
powder, and drawn along the edges of the eye-
lids.
It
is
thought to give a very soft expression to
the eye, the size of which, in appearance, to
it
enlarges
which circumstances .probably Jeremiah
when he
writes,
Egyptians,
A
vol.
singular
i,
4
:
30.
(or
make
thino eyes) with painting, in vain shalt thou thyself fair.”-—Jer.
;
refers
“ Though thou .rentest thy face
See also Lane’s Modern
p. 41, et seq.
custom
observable
is
Moorish and Arab females
both
among
—that of ornamenting the
face between the eyes with clusters of bluish spots
or
other
small
devices,
become permanent. similar manner,
and
which, being stained,
The chin
is
and a narrow blue
also spotted in a line extends
from
Digitized by
—
PAINTING THE FACE. the point of
The
it,
and
is
227
continued down the throat.
eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and ex.
tremities of
The
the eyelids, are colored black.
and sometimes other parts of the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a soles,
plant called
Henna ( Lawsonia
I
inermis), the leaf of
which somewhat resembles the myrtle, and
is
dried
The back of the and ornamented in this
for the purposes above mentioned.
hand
is
.
often colored
also
On
wa"y with different devices.
holidays they paint
their cheeks of a red brick color, a
narrow red
line
being also drawn down the temples.
In Greece, “ for coloring the lashes and sockets of
gum labdanum on some smoke which ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and the eye they throw incense or coals of
fire,
intercept the
closing one of her eyes, took the two lashes between
the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, pulled
them forward, and then, thrusting X
•
*
in at the external
#
i
|
corner a sort of bodkin on probe which had been
immersed
in the soot,
and withdrawing
it,
the particles
previously adhering to the probe remained within the eyelashes.”
Dr.
Shaw
Chandler’s Travels in Greece. among other curiosities .
states that
that
were taken out of the tombs at Sahara relating to
Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of
this
powder.
In England the same practice
is
adopted by
many
Digitized by
—
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
228
persons that have gray hair
;
but instead of using the
black material in the form of a powder,
it is
employed
as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body,
such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous article.
Turkish Hair Dyk.
In Constantihople there are some persons, particu-
who devote themselves
larly Armenians,
to the pre-
money Amongst
paration of cosmetics, and obtain large sums of
from those desirous of learning these ‘cosmetics
is
a black dye for the hair, which, ac-
cording to Landerer,
manner
this art.
is
prepared in the following
:
Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a to a paste, which oil
is
little oil
roasted in an iron pan until the
vapors cease to evolve, upon which the residue
triturated with water into a paste, to dryness.
which
is
At
is
and heated again
the ‘same time a metallic mixture,
brought 'from Egypt to the commercial marts
of the East, and which
is
termed in Turkish Rastiko-
petra or Rastik- Yuzi,
is
employed for this purpose. is by some Arme-
,
This "metal, which looks like dross,
nians intentionally fused, and consists of iron and It obtains
copper.
its
name from
its
use for the
coloration of the hair, and particularly, the eyebrows
—
for rastik
fine
means eyebrows, an<T yuzi
powder of
this
metal
is
stone.
as intimately
The
mixed as
possible with the moistened gall-mass into a paste,
which
is
preserved in a
damp
quires the blackening property.
place,
by which
it
ac-
In some cases this
Digitized by
»
LITHARGE HAIR DYE. mass
is
mixed with the powder of odorous substances
which are used is,
pleasant odor
ingredient
is
ambergris.
,
of this dye
and called andof these the principal
in the seraglio as perfumes,
harti that
fingers,
229
;
To blacken
the hair a
little
triturated in the hand- or between the
is
with which the hair
"or
beard
well rubbed.
is
After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully
and
blackj
it is
a real pleasure to see such fine black
beards as are met with in the East
who use
this
vantage in
among
the Turks
Another and importamt ad-
black dye.
use of this dyb consists, therein, that
thfe
the hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black,
when
it
has been once dyed with this substance. That
the coloring properties of this dye are to be chiefly
ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found
by treating tliQ'mass with water, may he with certainty assumed. Jj 1:riIAKGE
•
litharge,
Quicklime,
.
make
it
.lime,
»
% .
.
Calcined magnesia,
Slake the
Hair Dye.
»
a
Powdered
.
.
using as
disintegrate, then
...
.
..
.
little
.
.
".
.
.
•
2 lbs.
.
&
lb.
.
£
lb.
water as possible to
mix the whole by a
sievo.
Another Way.
•
Slaked lime,
.
-
.
.
.
.
.
.3 lbs.
White lead in powder,
2 lbs.
Litharge,
1 lb. -•
Mix by
.
and well cork. bo sold with the above.— Mix the
sifting, bottle,
Direction
to
;
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
230
powder with enough water fluid
form a thick creamy
to
with the aid of a small brush, completely cover
;
the hair to be dyed with this mixture
brown, allow
;
keep
by wearing an
so
it
'“After
the
hair
moist,
it is
light
it is
As
necessary
oiled silk, india-rubber,
or other waterprqof cap. •
dye a
to
black* twelve hours.
the dye does mot act unless -to
;
remain on the hair four hours
to
it
dark brown, -eight hours
•
dyed, the refuse must be
is
thoroughly washed from the head with plain water;
when
dry, the hair joust be oiled.”.
Dye.
Stmple'Sii'.ver
Nitrate of silver,
Rose-water,
"
.
*
(Otherwise “Ycgelable /b/e.”)
.
.
.
.
.
it
hair from grease by washing
The
.1
.
.
is
'
oz.
1-pint.
.
is
necessary to free the
it
with soda or pdarlash
must be quite dry prior
hair
plying the dye, which
to ap-
best laid on with an old tooth-
This dye does not “strike” for several hours.
brush. •It
.
.
Before using this dye
and water.
.
needs- scarcely be observed that its effects are more
rapidly produced by exposing the hair to sunshine and
I
air.
Hair D^e, with Mordant. Nitrate of silver,
Rose-water'
The mordant '
*
..
•
.
.
(2?roten.)
.1
...
— Sulphuret of-potasaium,
«
Water,
,
,
.
...
.
•
.
.
.
,
(
n
Water,
* .
.
.
.
bottles.
Black .)
.1 ••
The mordant .—Sulphuret of potassium, *
“ (
white “ 8 oz.
1 oz.,
Hair Dye, with Mordant. Nitrate of silver,
Water,
blue bottles.
oz.,
9 oz. *
.
oz.,
blue bottles.
“
6 oz. 1 oz.,
white
bottles. |
“
6 oz.
’
Digitized by
C J
jU
BROWN HAIR DYE. The mordant
is
281
to be applied to the hair first * ».’*
'
dry, the silver solution.
;
when
-
Great care must be taken that the sulphuret
.
is
fresh made, or at least, well preserved in closed bottles,
otherwise, instead of the mordant acting to
hair black,
will
it
the mordant
tend to impart a
is goo.d, it
and although
make
yelloto- hue.
the
.When
has a very disagreeable odor,
and best dye,
this is the quickest
its
un-
silver in
the
pleasant smell has given rise to the
-
.Blue
*
bottles .
Inodorous Dye.
—Dissolve the nitrate of
water as in the above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to
ammonia
small portions until
in
becomes bright from the oxide. of solved-
fhe silver
fluid
add
again
being redis-
•
r
White botths
.
—Pour
•(*
•
•
half a pint of boiling rose-
water upon three ounces of powdered ga(l-nuts ;-when cold, strain is
and
bottle.
used in the same
*
way
the sulphuret mordant.
This forms the mordant, and as the. first-named dye, like is
-It
the previous one.
not so” good a dye. as
' .
.
•
•
*
French Brown Dye.
Blue
Bottles
.
— Saturated
*
solution' of sulphate of
add ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as with the copper
;
to this '
silver in the above),
producing the azure
liquid.-
•
ed by
232
TIIK
White Bottle».
ART OP PERFUMERY.
— Mordant — Saturated .
solution of
prussiate of potass.
manufacture of perukes,
Artificial hair, for the
dyed
in the
same manner as wool.
There are but
all
in the
is
-
market several other hair
dyes,-
of them are but modifications of the above,
possessing no
marked advantage.
•
-
.
.
•
Lead Dye.
•
•
may
Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, thus
prepared
potassie as it
:
— Dissolve
much
freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as
take up, and dilute the resulting clear solution
will
Care must be
with three ounces of distilled water.
taken not to wet the skin unhecessarily with Quick Depilatory or Russia. .
As
(For removing
it.
.
hair.)
the ladies of this country consider the growth
of hair
upon the upper
lip,
upon the arms, and on the
back of the neck, to be detrimental
who are
to beauty, those
troubled wjth such physical indications of
good health and to
be
one ounce of liquor
in
stamina have long had recourse
vital
rusma or depilatory
for
removing
it.
This or analogous, preparations were introduced into this country from the East, in use in the
.
harems of Asia
Best lime slaked,
Mix
.
.
Orpiment; in powder,
the material
"
.'
.
rusma having been
many -ages.
for
.
.
.
.
.
’
.
.
.
.
by means of a drum
sieve
3 lb.
i
;
lbs.
pre-
RUSMA OR DEPILATORY.
233 stoppered
the same' for sale in well-corked or
serve
•
•'
bottles.
Mix
Directions to be sold with the above.
depilatory powder with enough water to render
a creamy consistency five
lay
;
it
upon the hair
the of
it
for about
minutes, or until it^ caustic action upon the skin
renders
it
necessary to be removed
to shaving is then to be
a similar process
;
gone through, but instead of
using a razor, operate with an ivory or bone paperknife
then wash the part with plenty of water, and
;
apply a
The
little
*
’
cold cream.
precise time to leave depilatory
upon the part
to be depilated cannot be given, because there
tresses” require
is
a
“ Raven
physical difference in the nature of Hair.
more time than “ flaxen locks ” the ;
sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered.
A small feather is very 'good test for its action. A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed a-
in
finding that I have only given one formula for depilatory.
The
receipts'
might easily have been
The use of
creased in number, but not in quality. arsenical
compounds
is objectionable,
in-
but
it
undoubt-
edly increases the depilating action of the compounds.
A to
few compilers of “ Receipt Books,” “ Supplements
Pharmacopoeias,” and Others, add to
lime
the
“charcoal powder,” “carbonate of potass,” “starch,” &c.; but
what action have these materials
—upon
hair
?
quicklime, but
The it is
recommended above
simplest depilatory
less energetic ;
and fellmongers, with
it
— chemically is
moistened
than the mixture
answers very well for tanners
whom
time
is
no object.
-
•
Digitized by
TUB ART OF PERFUMERY.
234
SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS.
A
lady’s
I
of some absorbent powder
greatest benefit
indeed, from our ^arliest
;
used for drying the skin with the
is
no wonder that
J
advanced years,
composition,
'
incomplete without a box
toilet-table is
infancy, powder
in
‘
*
*
»
if,
by
use
its
is
continued
slight modifications in its
dan be employed not only as an absor-
it
bent, but as a means of “personal adornment.
quite within limits in stating that
many
-
Wehre
ton-weights
of such, powders .are .used in this country annually.
They are
composed of various starches,
principally
prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts,
mixed more or
—of
powdered
less with-
talo
Haiiy,
-
steatitfe (soap-stone),
and oxide of termed
French chalk, oxide of
Thp most popular
zinc, &c.
bisjhutb,
is
what
is
•
Violet Powderi
Wheat
starch,
-
.
>
Orris-root powder,
Otto of lemon, “ bergamot,
a
•
'
.
•
•
*
#
•
•
•
, •
«
•
•
•
.
cloves,
.
12
lbs.
.
2 lbs.
.
J 0Z.
.
i oz.
.
2 drachms.
% A
• *
•
v
Wheat
-
Rose* Face Powder. starch,
•
.
•
•
•
s
*
Rose Pink, Otto of rose,
.
.
.
-
.
7 lbs.
£ drachm. 2 drachms.
•
“
1
saatal,
•
•
•
J
•
•
.
2
«
Digitized by
—
THEATRICAL PAINT8 NECESSARY.
235
Plain or Unscented Hair Powder
wheat
Is pure
starch.
~ Starch,
,*
.
.
•Oxide of Bismuth,
.
.
.
.
*
-
.
French chalk,
4 oz.
..
.
I lb.
•
.
Oxide oflbismuth, ,
1 lb.
.
•
Perle Powder.
..
Oxide of zinc,
.
.
.
v
*
-
•
•
Face Powder.
...
.
I oz.
•
. '
....
'
L oz.
.
Blanc de Perle
'
Is pure oxide of bismuth
iir
powder.
French Blanc Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.
This it
is
-
the best face powder made, particularly as
from emanation of the skin or
.does not discolor
impure atmosphere. Liquid Blanc (tor theatrical use).
•
The is
usfe
absolutely necessary
florid
•
of a white paint by actresses and dancers, ;
complexion, which
scenic effects,
great exertion produces a is
incompatible with certain
and requires a cosmetic to subdue
Madame. V
,
it."
during her .stage career, has pro-
bably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus Rose or orange-flower water, Oxide of bismuth, .
Mixed by long
.
.
:
•
.
.
.
.
.1 *.
4
pint. oz.
trituration.
Digitized by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
236
Calcined Talc
and
Is also extensively used as a toilet powder,
sold under various
names
is
not so unctuous as the
it ib
;
ordinary kind.
...
•
Rouge axd Red Points. '
*
•
•
These preparations are in demand, not only for by priyate individuals. Various
theatrical use, but
shades of color are made, to suit the complexions of
One
the blonde and brunette. that termed
.
is
»
Bloom of Roses.
Strong liquid ammoqia, Finest carmine, Rose-water,'
of the best kind •
•
Esprit de rose (triple)f
.
.
.
.•
.
.
.
-.
.
*.
*.
i
.
.
*
oz.
$ oz.
.•
.
.
.
.
.
1 pint.
.
.
.
J'o t.
.
*
Place the carmine into a pint bottlt^ and pour on it
the
ammonia ;
them
allow
to
remain together,' with
occasional agitation, for two days
water and esprit, and well mix. a quiet situation for a .week rities
from the carmine
“Bloom
of Roses”,
is
;
;
then add the rosePlace the bottle in
any precipitate of impu-
will subside
;
the supernatant
then to be bottled for sale.
,
If
the carmine was perfectly pjure there would be no precipitate
makers
;
nearly is
all
the carmine purchased from the
more or less premium to
price being.a
sophisticated, its
enormous
its adulteration.
Carmine cannot be manufactured profitably on a small scale for commercial purposes;
four
or
manufacturers supply the whole of Europe
!
five
M.
Digitized by
—
TOILET ROUGES.
Rue Grenier
Titard,
237
Lazare, Paris, produces,
St.
without doubt, the " finest article
singular enough,
;
however, the principal operative in the establishment is
*
an old Englishman.'
•
“ The preparation of -the
.
carmine
finest
mystery, because, on the one hand,
itf
still
a
consumption
its
being very limited, few persons are engaged in
its
manufacture, and, upon 'the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on
it
cannot be
Dr. Ure.
conveniently made.”
In the Encyclo'p&die Rcret
be found no less
will
than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine;
number of formulae
will convince the
reader that the true form
Analysis has taught us
is
the
most superficial
yet withheld. exact composition
its
;
but
a cejtain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.
Most of
the'
recipes given
are from this source
value
$e
refrain,
;
by Dr. Ure, and
others,
but as they possess no practical
from reprinting them. .
»
•
4
Toilet Rouges.
Are prepared of
different
shades by mixing fine
.carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one
drachm of carmine
two ounces of
to
one of carmine to three of
talc,
talc, or
and so on.* These
rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots
;
for the latter the
portion of solution of
rouge
gum
is
mixed with a mijiute
tragacanth.
prepares a great variety of rouges.
M. Titard
In some instances
the coloring-matter of the cochineal
is
spread upon
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
238
thick paper and dried very gradually
sumes a beautiful green effect is also
known the
observed
-in
many
evidently
is.
'
imposed
way, and has been
saifie
When
then
it
“ pink saucers.”
as Chinese book rouge
country for
;
as-
This curious optical
tint.
What
is
made
in
into
this
years.
the bronze green cards are moistened with
a piece, of
damp
cotton wool, and applied to the lips
or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful rosy -hue.
Common
sorts of rouge, called
“ theatre rouge,” are ;
made from the Brazil-wood
lake
'
another kind
is
derived from the safflower (Catthamus tinctorius) f
from
this plant also
*
•
The
safflower
coloring-matter principle
its
is
is
made
Pink Sai'cers.
washed removed
is
in ;
water until the yellow
the carthamine or color
then dissolved out by a weak solution of
carbonate of soda into the saucers
the solution.
;
the coloring
is
then precipitated
by the addition of sulphuric acid *
.
to
.
Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same
way
are used for the
same purpose, the former- being
sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Cr^pon rouge.
Digitized by
TOOTH POWDERS.
239
SECTION XY. TOOTH POWDERS AXD MOUTH WASHES. #
â&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘
Tooth powders, regarded cleansing the teeth, are most
cosmetics
as a means merely of commonly placed among
but this should not he, aS they assist
;
greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition
of the dental machinery, and so aid
much
may
manner, they although
By
in perfecting as
as possible the act of mastication.
it
a careful
true, subordinate medicinal agfcnts.
is
and prudent use of them, some of the
most frequent causes of early be prevented
In this
he considered as most useful,
;
loss of the teeth
may
these are, the deposition of tartar, the
swelling of the gums, and an
jmdue
acidity of the
'"The effect resulting from accumulation of the
saliva.
known to most persons, and it has been shown that swelling of the substance of the
tartar is well distinctly
gums
will
hasten the expulsion of the teeth from
their sockets
;
and the action of the
known to be Now, the structive. acid, is
powder
saliva, if
at least injurious, daily*
if
unduly
not de-
employment of a tooth
sufficiently hard, so as. to exert a tolerable
degree of friction upon the teeth, without, at the
same time, injuring the enatnel of the most
teeth, will, in
cases, almost always prevent the
mulating in such a degree injury to the teeth condition of the
;
and a
t&rtar accu-
as to cause subsequent flaccid,
spongy, relaxed
gums may be prevented
or overcome
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
240
ART OP PERFUMERY.
TIIE
by adding
;
to such a tooth
powder, some tonic and
A
tooth powder containing
astringent ingredient.
charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish these
most cases, and therefore dentists gene-
results in
recommend
rally
such.
to the use of charcoal its
color
is
;
Still,
it is
by the
saliva, it
teeth,
and there
is'
there
are objections
too hard and resisting,
and
objectionable,
it is
perfectly insoluble
apt to become lodged between the
to collect
decomposing. animal and
-
vegetable matter around such particles as fixed in this position.
Cinchona bark,
may
be
too, is often
M. and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. Mialhe highly recommends the following formula
stringy,
Mialuks Tooth Powder.
!
Sugar of
milk, one thousand parts
and
oil
;
lake, ten parts
fifteen parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed,
pure tannin,
of orange flowers, so
much
as to impart an
agreeable flavor to the composition.
His directions for
tooth
the preparation of this
rub well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, previously powdered and sifted.; and lastly, the essential oils are
powder, are,
-to
to be carefully mixe'd with the
powdered substances.
Experience has convinced him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of which, will suffice
to
preserve the
gums and
teeth
in a
For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation healthy
state.
:
Digitized by
ASTRINGENT DENTIFRICE.
241
Mialhe's Dentifrice.
thousand parts
Alcohol, one
hundred, parts
genuine kino, one
;
rhatany root, one hundred parts
;
tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts
gum
benzoin, $wo parts
parts
;
;
two
essential oil of canclla,
essential oil of mint,
two parts
;
tincture of
;
essential oil
;
of aniseed, one part.
The kino and the rhatany root are
to
in the alcohol for seven or eight days
;
be macerated
and
after
A
be added.
tration, the other articles are to
fil-
tea-
spoonful of this preparation mixed in three'or four
spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the ndouth, after the use of the tooth powder.
Camphorated Chalk. Precipitated chalk,
Powdered
.
orris-root,
Powdered camphor,
.
.
Reduce the camphor mortar with a together.
On
little
to
â&#x20AC;˘
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
1 lb.
.
i'lb.
i lb.
powder by rubbing
spirit,
then
sift
it
in a
the whole well
account of the volatility of camphor,
the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in boxes lined with tinfoil.
Quinine Tooth Powder. Precipitated chalk,
1 lb.
Starch Powder,
i lb.
Orris powder,
i
lb*.
Sulphate of quinine,
1
drachm.
After
sifting, it is
ready
for sale. 21
Digitized by
.
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
242
Prepared Charcoal. Fresh-made charcoal Prepared chalk,
iu fine
powder,
7 lbs. 1 lb.
.
.
.......
Orris-root,
Catechu,
1 lb.
Myrrh,
1
lb.
i
Cassia bark,
i lb. .
.
.
.
i lb.
..
Sift.
Peruvian Bark Powder.
..... ..... ..*...
Peruvian bark "in powder, Bole Ammoniac, Orria powder,
.
.
.
Cassia bark,
Powdered myrrh, Precipitated chalk,
Otto of cloves,
.
.
.
.
i lb. 1
lb.
1 lb.
.
\ lb.
J lb.
i lb. i oz.
.
Homeopathic Chalk.
...... ......
Precipitated.chalk,
1 lb.
Powder
1 oz.
“
%
orris,'
starch,
1 oz.
?
Cuttle-Fish Powder.
Powdered
cuttle-fish,
'
.
Powder
.
orris,-
.
Otto of lemonsj
“
nerpli,
.
.
.
Precipitated chalk,
. •
•
...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*1 lb.
.
jib.
.-
.
lb.
.
.
,
'
*
i
.
.
.
1 oz.
-
j
drachm.
Borax and Myrrh Tooth Powder. Precipitated chalk,
Borax powder, Myrrh powder, Orris,
.
.
.
.
1 lb.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
J
.
.
.
.
J lb.
j lb.
... .
.
.
.
lb.
Digitized by
.
MOUTH WASHES
243
Farina Piesse’s Powder. Precipitated chalk, Orris-root,
.
.
.
Rose pink, T . Very fine powdered sugar, .
Otto of neroli, “ lemons,
-
•
•
•
•
-
.
•
•
•
•
2 lbs.
.
2 lbs. 1
.
drachm.
•
•
.
Jib.
•
.
.
J drachm.
.
.
.
J oz.
.
“
bergamot,
.
u
orange-peel,
.
J oz.
.
1
“
rosemary,
.
.
i oz.
drachm.
Rose Tooth Powder. •
....
Precipitated chalk, Orris,
Rose pink, Otto of rose, “
.
”*
.
..
.
lib.
.
santal,
•
•
•
.
Jib.
•
.
•
.
2
•
•
•
•*
*
•
1
•.
•
drachms drachm.
i drachm.
. 1
Opiate Tooth Paste.
Honey
....
Chalk, Orris,
.
.
^
..
Rose Pink,
“
rose,
Simple syrupf
lb.
.
•
•
.
J
•
•
•
.
Jib.
•
•
.
2
.
J drachm*
•
Otto of cloves, “ nu$me£,
J
,
•
*
•
lb.
drachms
"I
>
each,
•
•
'
•
-J
.
.
enough
to
form a paste.
MOUTH WASHES.
.
Violet Mouth Wash. Tincture of
. %
pint.
.
J
Esprit de rose,
•
•
•
.
J pint.
Spirit,
•
.
•
.
J
•
•
•
.
5 drop
orris,
.
Otto of almonds,
#
#
pint,
Digitized by
THE AKT OF PERFUMERY.
244
Eau Botot. Tincture of cedar wood,
1
pint.
“
myrrh,
J pint.
“
rhatany,
} pint.
Otto of peppermint,
5 drops.
made with grape
All these -tinctures should be spirit,
or at least with pale unsweetened brandy. Botanic Styptic.
Rectified spirit,
Rhatany
Gum
myrrh,
Whole
.
.
.
.
.
‘
.
.
1 quart.
root, y
of each,
l
2 oz.
cloves, J
Macerate for fourteen days, and
strain.
Tincture of Myrrh and Borax. *
Spirits of wine,
Borax,
Honey,
Gum
of each
*
>
'
*
.
1
.
.
.
1 oz.
.
.
.
.
1 oz.
.
.
.
.
1 oz.
/
myrrh,
.
Red sanders wood,
Rub
quart.
.
.
.
1
the honey and borax well together
then gradually add the stronger than '920,
i.e.
spirit,
proof
m a mortar,
which should not be spirit,
the myrrh,
and
sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days. Tincture of Myrrh with Eau de Cologne.
Eau de
Gum
Cologne,
myrrh,
1 .
.
.
Macerate for fourteen days, and i
.
'
.
.1
quart. oz.
filter.
•
Camphorated Eau de Cologne.
Eau de
Cologne,
Camphor,
.
.
.
1
quart.
5 oz.
Digitized by
245
IIAIR WASHES.
SECTION XVI. HAIR WASHES.
'
Rosemary Water. Rosemary
free from stalk,
.
Water, -
Draw
off by distillation ten gallons fumery manufacture.
.
10
.
12 gallons.
lbs.
for use in per-
Rosemary Hair Wash. Rosemary water, Rectified spirit,
Pearlash,
.
•
.
,
... ...
.
.
.
1
.
.
.
.
.
•
gallon.
£ pint. 1 oz.
Tinted with brown coloring. Athenian Water. Rose-water,
1 gallon,
.
Alcohol,
1 pint.
Sassafras wood,
i
Pearlash,
1 oz.
Boil the
when
.
wood
cold,
,
lb.
in the rose-water in a glass vessel
add the pearlash and
;
then,
spirit.
Vegetable or.Botayic Extract. Rose-water,
of each.
2 quarts.
Rectified spirits, 21 *
Digitized by
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
246
Extrait de fleur d’orange,
“ “ ‘
•
jasmin,
of each,
acacia,
“
i pint.
rose,
“
••
tubereuse, _
Extract of vanilla,
This
is
i pint
a very beautifully-scented hair wash.
cotnmensurate with
retails at a price
1
It
its cost.
'
Astringent Extract of Roses a«d Rosemary.
Rosemary
water,
Esprit de rose,
2 quarts.
.
Extract of vanilla,
Magnesia
.
.
Rectified spirit,
to clear
*
.
it,
.
.
.
.
.
1
.
.
.
.
2 oz.
.
1
*
.
...
.
.
Extract of rondeletia,'
Transparent soap,
.
.
saffron,
Shave up the soap very
;
;
boil
remainder of the water, then the
light
it is
pearance when shaken.
Egg
1
i pint.
.
i oz.
.
i drachm.
gallon,
it
spirit, finally
it is fit
the
After
for bottling.
by reflected and singular wavy ap-
transparent, but
light the liquid has a pearly
called
1 pint.
.
used by way of perfume.
is
standing for two or three days,
By transmitted
.
.
and the saffron when dissolved, add the
fine
in a quart of the rose-water
rondeletia, which
quart.
•
Saponaceous Wash.
Rectified spirit,
Hay
11 pint.
. .
Filter through paper.
Rose-water,
$ pint.
.
.
.
A
similar
preparation
is
Julep.
Digitized by
Coogle
;
247
BANDOLINES.
Bandolines.
Various preparations are used to
assist in dressing
Some persons use pomatum containing wax, called thence Baton Fixeteur.
the hair in any particular form. for that purpose a hard
made up, into rolls, The little “ feathers”
of hair, with which some ladies by the aid of these batons made to down smooth. For their formula, see p. 224, 225. The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also by boiling are troubled, are
lie
quince-seed with water.
Perfumers, however, chiefly
make bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exude3 from a shrub of that name which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey. Rose Bandoline.
Gum
tragacanth,
Rose-water,
.
.
.
.
.
.
> .
•
.
.
.
Otto of roses,
.
6 oz.
.1
gallon.
4 oz.
gum in the water for ai day or so. As it and forms a thick gelatinous mass, it must
Steep the swells
from time to time be well agitated. After about fortyeight hours’ maceration
it
through a coarse clean linen
is
then to be squeezed
cloth,
and again
left to
stand for a few days, and passed through a linen cloth
*
a second time, to insure uniformity of consistency
when this is
the case, the otto of rose
incorporated.
the otto
;
is
The cheap bandoline
for colored bandoline,
it is
to be thoroughly is
to
made without be tinted with
' Digitized
by
THE ART OP PERFUMERY.
248
ammoniacal solution of carmine, See
p.
i.
e.
Bloom of Roses.
236.
Almond Bandoline Is
made
precisely ns the above, scenting with a
quarter of an ounce of otto of almonds in place of the roses.
.
.
“ Nor the Sweet smell OF different flowers in odor and in hue Can make me any longer story tell.” ' •
'
.
Shakspeare.
k
Digitized by
APPENDIX 1
MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE. Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by directly saponifying oil with th6 oxide of lead, or, on the other, from the â&#x20AC;&#x153; waste liquorâ&#x20AC;? of soap manufacTo
turers.
methods
is
obtain glycerine
by means of the
first
of these
the reverse of simple, and at the same time
somewhat expensive; and'by means of the second process, the difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the
waste liquor renders fectly pure result.
meet
it
next to impossible to procure a per-
To meet both these demand
the steadily increasing
difficulties,
and
for glycerine,
to
Dr.
Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, which,
he
asserts,
he has found, by experience, to combine the
desirable advantages of
and expense.
economy
as regards time, trouble,
Oner hundred pounds of
tallow, lard, or
oil,
stearin are to be placed in a clean iron-bound barrel,
and
melted by the direct application of a current of steam.
Whilst still
fluid
and warm, add
previously slaked, and
made
and a half gallons of water
;
to
it fifteen
pounds of lime,
into a milky mixture with two
then cover the vessel, and con-
tinue the steaming for several hours, or until tion shall be completed.
This
tlje
saponifica-
may be known when
a
S'* digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
250
APPENDIX.
sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright
and
surface on being scraped with the finger-nail,
same time, breaks with a crackling the fat or to
oil is
decomposed,
its
noise.
By
at the
this process
acids uniting with the lime
form insoluble lime-soap, while the eliminated glycerine
remains in solution in the water along with After
the lime. to cool
and
The strained of lime,
steam.
it
water.
and
excess of
and requires
is
and excess
be carefully concentrated by heated
to
Durii% evaporation, a portion of the lime
The
its
residue
is
allowed
then to be strained.
it is
liquid. contains only the glycerine
on account of
sited,
tJie
has been sufficiently boiled, it
to settle,
lessor solubility in hot
is
depo-
than in cold
removed by treating the evaporated
liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, boiling
by heated
may
steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that
have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting qr straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the pre-
and evaporating
cipitated carbonate of lime,
still
further,
as before, if necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water.
As
nothing fixed or injurious
employed iu
is
glycerine, prepared in this manner,
this process,
may be depended upon
for its almost absolute purity.
M.
Jahnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s process
is
as follows
Take of finely-powdered oil
nine pounds.
litharge five pounds,
with the addition
warm
consistence of plaster.
water, until the
Jahn
When
least
the
cold,
it
at the
he pours
same
off
and repeats the boiling three times
with a fresh portion of water.
result are mixed,
fire,
compound has
water, keeping
of.
time constantly stirred. fluid,
olive
occasionally of a
boils this plaster for half an
hour with an equal weight supernatant
and
Boil tliem together over a gentle
constantly stirring,
small quantity of
:
and evaporated
The sweet
to six
fluids
the at
which
pounds, and sulphu-
Digitized by
TEST FOR ALCOHOL. retted
251
hydrogen conducted through them as long as
phuret of lead
is
precipitated.
the sulphuret of lead sistence
matter/
is
The
liquid
To remove the brown coloring by evaporation. must bo treated with purified animal charcoal.
it
However,
this
agent does not prevent the glycerine becom-
ing slightly colored upon further evaporation. alfeo still
sul-
from
filtered
to be reduced to a thin syrupy con-
It possesses
a slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which
be removed by diluting
it
may
with water, and by digestion
with animal charcoal, and some fresh burnt-wood charcoal.
After
filtration, this liquid
must be evaporated
acquired a specific gravity of 1-21, when to
be free from smellj and of a pate yellow
preparation of glycerine, distilled water
prevent
mon
water.-
necessary,
to
.Jahn obtained, by this method, from the
above quantity of load .
has
Tor the
color: is
it
be found
being contaminated with the impurities of com-
it
glycerine
until
it will
plaster,
upwards of seven ounces of
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Archives dcr Pharmacie.
TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL
OILS.
J. J. Bernoulli recommends. for this purpose acetate of potash.
When
to
an ethereal
hol, dry acetate of potash
is
oil,
contaminated with alco-
added, this
salt
dissolves in
the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the volatile oil separates.
mains dry
If the
oil
be free from alcohol, this
who speaks
highly of this
the following method of applying
dry
salt re-
therein.
Wittstein,
test-tube, about half
it
test,
has suggested
as the best
:
an inch in diameter, and
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; In
a
five or
six inches long, put no more than eight grains of powdered
Digitized by
APPENDIX.
252 dry acetate of potash the essential
oil to
must be well
;
then
fill
the tube two-thirds full with
The contents of the tube
be examined.
stirred with a glass rod, taking oare
allow the salt to rise above the
oil
not to
afterwards set aside few
;
a short time.
If the salt be found at the bottom of the
tube
is
dr)â&#x20AC;&#x2122;,
it
evident
that the
oil
contains no spirit.
Oftentimes, instead of the dry
salt,
a clear syrupy fluid, which*
a solution of the salt in the
spirit,
with which the
tains only a little
oil
spirit,
is
beneath the
was mixed.
When
found
oil is
the
con-
oil
a small portion of the solid salt
Many
will
be found under the syrupy solution.
oils
frequently contain a trace pf water, which does not
essential
materially interfere with this test, because, although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby,
it still
retains its
pulverent form.
A
still
more certain
in a water-bath-
result
may be
obtained by distillation
All the essential 'oils which have a higher
boiling-point than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the receiver
with only a trace of the
where the alcohol may be recognized by the smell and Should, however, a doubt
exist,
add
acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid,
mixture in a test-tube
to the boiling-point,
racteristic odor of acetic ether will
oil,
taste.
to the distillate a
little
and heat the
when the cha-
be manifest,
if
any
al-
cohol be present.
DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS. It is
known
that the olein of the drying oils
tinguished from the olein of those in the air
by
-the first
oils
may be
dis-
which remain greasy
not being convertible into elaidic
\
Digitized by
Googl
:
COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE acid,
consequently
Wiinmer
does not become
it
is
Professor
solid.
recently proposed a convenient
lias
the formation of elaidin, which
method
He
oils.
filings in
nitrous acid
is
oil to
be tested
is
If the
placed.
olives contains only a small quantity of
when thus
lized
with
The vapor of
conducted through a glass tube into water,
upon which the' oil
oils
produces nitrous acid by treating iron
a glass bottle with nitric acid.
almonds or
for
applicable for the purpose
of detecting the adulteration of almond and olive
drying
253
OILS.
treated,
of
entirely converted into crystal-
it is
poppy
elaidin, whilst the
oil
poppy
oil
swims on the top in
drops.
COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE
It is well
known
OJLS.
â&#x20AC;˘
0
BY
G. E. SACHSSE.
that most ethereal oils are colorless '
however, there are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some yellow.
Up.
to the present
time the question has npt been decided, whether necessary
property of ethereal
whether their color
is
oils
have a
to
it is
color,
the or
not due to the presence of some oolor-
ing matter which can be removed.
It is
most probable
that their color arises from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils can at distillation,
be obtained
portion passes over.
colorless, whilst
oils,
by
careful
kter the eolored
Subsequent appearances lead to the
solution of tho question,
ethereal
first,
when they
and are
certain
evidence that
owe
their color to
are colored,
peculiar substances which,
by
communicated from one
to another.
oil
certain conditions,
When
may be
a mixture
22
Digitized by
:
254 of
APPENDIX. of wormwood, lemons, and cloves
oils
tillation,
the
previously green-colored
passes over, at the
commencement,
is
subjected to
of
oil
dis-
wormwood
colorless, while,
towards
the end of the distillation, after the receiver has been fre-
quently charged, the oil of cloves drops of a dark green color.
oil
of cloves
oil
over in very dense
It therefore appears that the
green coloring matter of the transferred to the
distils
.
wormwood has been fur Phar-
of
—
Zeitschrift
macie.
ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF
CINNAMON. BY
is
"
STRECKER.
A.
Some years since, Strecker has shown that obtained when styracine is treated with
alcohol of cinuamic acid.
styrone,
potash,
Wolff has converted
which .is
the
this alcohol
by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid". The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of cinnamic acid, that
is, oil
of cinnamon.
It is only neces-
sary to moisten platinum black with styrone,
and
let it re-
some days, when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the addimain
in the air
tion of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is
afterwards procured pure.
in nitric
acid,
and then form
These
crystals' also dissolve
after a few
moments crystals The converby thfe action
of the nitrate of the hyduret of cinnamyle.
sion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle
of the platinum black
C„
II in
0,+2
0=C
lg
is
II g
shown by the following equation 0 3 -f2 HO. Compte* Rtndut.
—
Digitized by
ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS OF COMMERCE.
255
DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE
LAVENDER
IN
BY
DR.
There are two kinds of lavender one, which
is
very dear, and
of the Lavandula vera is
prepared from
The
is
oil
known
termed
Lavandula vera
or
oil
be
in
commerce;
obtained from the flowers
; the other
is.
the flowers of the
latter is generally
of France, whether the the
OIL.
GASTELL.
J.
oil
much
Lavandula
Lavandula
spica.
In the south
of spike.
distilled
cheaper, and
from the flowers of
spica ,
it
is
named
oil
of lavender.
By
the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk
and the is oil
leaves, a small quantity of oil is obtained,
rich in camphor, and
is
there called
oil
which
Pure
of spike.
of lavender should have a specific gravity from -876 to
and be completely soluble
â&#x20AC;˘880,
specific gravity
that
it
that
it
of -894.
mixed with
is
contains
oil
oil
A
in five parts of alcohol of a
greater specific gravity shows
of spike
;
and a
less solubility,
of turpentine.
DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE. BY M. LEGUAY. There are three commerce. second third
is
sorts of orange-flower waters
found in
The first is distilled from the flowers the made with distilled water and neroli and the ;
;
is
distilled
young unripe
from the
leaves, the
fruit of the orange tree.
easily distinguished
stems, and the
The
first
may be
by the addition of a few drops of
sul-
Jltized
by
—
256
APPENDIX.
phurio acid to some of the water in a tube color
when
it is
a certain time, two or three color
is
;
a fine rose
The second
almost immediately produced.
is
gives the same color
also
freshly prepared; hut after
months
at the farthest, this
no longer produced, and the aroma disappears com-
pletely.
The
third
is
the sulphuric acid;
not discolored by the addition of
has scarcely any odor, and that
it
rather an odor of the lemon plant than of orange-flowers.
—
Ph armaceutique d'lndre
Bulletin de la Societe
et
Loire.
A FORMULA for concentrated elderflower WATER. Krcmbs recommends
the following process for
making a
concentrated elder-flower water, from which he states the
ordinary water can be extemporaneously prepared, of excellent quality,
and of uniform strength
:
—2
of the
lbs.
be distilled with water until - that which
flowers are to
passes into the receiver has lost nearly
all
This
perfume.
will generally
happen when from 15 to 18 pounds have
passed over.
To
the distillate, 2 lbs. of alcohol are to be
added, and the mixture distilled until about 5 collected.
To make
This liquor contains
all
lbs.
are
the odor of the flowers.
the ordinary water, 2 ounces' of the concentrated
water arc to be added to 10 ounces of distilled water.
Buchner’s Report.
PRACTICAL REMARKS ON SPIRIT OF WINE. BY THOMAS ARNALL. The strength of proof spirit (sp.
gr.
spirit
of wine
is,
by law, regulated by
-920) as a standard
;
and accordingly'
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
ARNALL ON SPIRITS OF WINE. as
much
called so
per
spirit of
;
it
are equal to
signifies
156 gallons of proof
while a spirit at 20 per cent, underproof, signifies
The
that 100 gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. rectified spirit of
proof,
the Pharmacopoeia
and may be reduced
to proof
the directions there given, viz., to
The
measures tion
is
56 per
eent. over-
by mix
strictly
adhering to
five
measures with
result,
however, will not be eight
of proof spirit; in
consequence of the contrac-
three of water.
.
is
a rather peculiar sense.
wine at 56 per cent, overproof,
100 gallons of
that spirit
it
The term
per cent, above or below proof.
cent, is used' in this instance in
Thus,
257
either stronger or weaker than the above,
is
it
which ensues, there
will
be a deficiency of about Jiv
This must be borne in mind in preparing
in each gallon. tinctures.
During a long of ethers,
it
series of
experiments on the preparation
appeared a desideratum to find a ready method
of ascertaining
how much
spirit
of any density would be
equal to one chemical equivalent of absolute alcohol.
By
a modification of a rule employed by the Excise, this ques-
may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows To reduce from any given strength to any required add the overproof per centage to 100, or subMultiply tract the underproof per centage from 100. :
tion
strength,
the result by the quantity of spirit, and divide the pro-
duct by the number obtained by adding the required per centage overproof, or subtracting the required per centage underproof, to or from 100, as the case result will give the
measure of the
may
be.
The
spirit at the strength
required.
Thus, suppose you wished at
54
tiply
overproof,
down
to
to proof,
reduce 10 gallons of
by the quantity, 10 gallons ,
spirit,
100=154; mul(154xlO)=154P. The
add 54
to
22 *
Digitized by
—
258
;
APPENDIX.
required strength being proof, of course there
nothing
is
100; therefore, 1540 divided by 100=15-4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons must be made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by either to add to or take from
the addition of water.
To
ascertain
what quantity of
spirit
of any given strength
Add
ono equivalent of absolute alcohol.
will contain
the
overproof per centage of the given spirit to 100, as before
and with the number thus obtained divide 4062-184'.
The
result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four equi-
valents
(46x4).
Example is
.
—How much
54
spirit at
per. cent, overproof
equal to 1 equivalent of absolute aloohol ?
Here, r>21 3 l =26-3778 54+100=154 and i°
galls.,
154 which, divided by
Suppose the .4062 185
then
4,
or 26 galls. 3 pts.
gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 15 oz.
spirit to
be 60 overproof,
— 25"388 oc.ooo gallons, —n =
r
one-fourth of which
„
1
_
is ,
equal ,,,
to G gallons, 2 pints, 154
100+60
oz.
This rule
is
founded on the following data.
of water weighs 10
lbs.,
it
is
As
a gallon
obvious that the specific
gravity of any liquid multiplied by 10 will give the weight
of one gallon.
The
specific gravity of absolute alcohol is
•793811'; hence, the weight of one gallon will be 7 lbs.,
and
its
strength
is
93811
estimated at 75-25 overproof.
4 equivalents of alcohol=46x 4=184,
and 23-17936 gallonsX 7-93811 Jbs. per gallon, also
=184-0003094.
Hence
it
appears that 23-17936 gallons of absolute alcohol
Digitized by
;
PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS. are equal to
By
4 equivalents.
259
adding the ovcrproof per
centage (75-25) to 100, and multiplying by the quantity
(23-17936 gallons) we get the constant number 4062-183.
The
rule
might have been calculated
show at
so as to
once the equivalent, without dividing by 4
but
;
have required several more places of decimals
it.
;
would
it
will give
the required quantity to a fraction of a fluid drachm.
PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS BY FILTRATION. BY MR. W. SCHAEFFER. Âť
%
Instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the purification of a
spirits,
In a suitable vessel, the form of which
filter.
material, a filtering
manner
Mr. Schaeffer proposes the use of
:
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; On
bed
a false
is
not
constructed in the following
is
bottom,
perforated
with
covered
woollen or other fabric, a layer of about six inches of well-
washed and very clean
river sand
is
placed
;
next about
made
twelve inches of granular charcoal, preferring that
from birch
on the charcoal
;
is
placed a layer of about one
inch of wheat, boiled to such an extent as to cause swell as large as possible,
between the
fingers.
and so that
Above
it
this is laid
about ten inches of
charcoal, then about one inch of broken oyster shells,
then about two inches more of charcoal,' over which a layer of woollen or other fabric, and over partition,
the
on to which the
filter is
spirit
it
is
a perforated
to be filtered is
the compartment of the
filtering materials, a
and
placed
poured
kept covered, and in order that the spirit
flow freely into
it to
will readily crush
filter
may
below the
tube connects such lower compartment
with the upper compartment of the
filter,
so that the air
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
260 may
APPENDIX.
On
filter.
each of the several strata above described,
desirable to place a layer of filtering paper.
it is
The as
and upper compartments
pass freely between the lower
of the
charcoal suitable for the above purpose
mode of
obtained in the ordinary
is
not such
is
preparation.
It
is
placed in a retort or oven, and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed
The
charcoal
is
and the flame become
off,
red.
then cooled in water, in which carbonate of
potash has previously been dissolved, in the proportion of
two ounces of carbonate lar state, in
The
to fifty gallons of water.
coal being deprived of the water
which condition
is
it is
then reduced
to
char-
a granu-
ready for use.
ON ESSENTIAL OIL OR OTTO OF LEMONS. BY JOHN (Read
COBB.
S.
before the Chemical Discussion Society.')
I have recently
made some experiments with
lemons, of which the following
is
a short account
Rcing constantly annoyed by the deposit and
my
oil
of
:
alteration in
essence of lemons, I have tried various methods of
remedying the inconvenience. I
first
tried redistilling
it,
but besides the
on
distilling small quantities, the flavor is
As
the
oil
all
its
precipitable matter
loss
consequent
thereby impaired.
became brighter when heated, I anticipated that would be thrown down
at a
low
temperature, and I applied a freezing mixture, keeping the oil at
zero for
some
hours.
No
such change, however, took
place.
The
plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best
Digitized by
COBB ON OTTO OF LEMONS. which I had arrived
was
at,
to
shake op the
261 with a
oil
boiling water, and to leave the water in the bottle
little
a mucila-
;
ginous preparation forms on the top of the water, aud acquires a certain tenacity, so that the
oil
may be poured off Perhaps
to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit.
cold water would answer equally well, were
agitated with the consideration
oil
of
and allowed some time origin
its
strengthens this opinion
both by
distillation
found
commerce
in
;
and
lemon
for although
otto is obtained
and expression, that which is
still
and
impurities, decanting
contains a certain
which
undergoes
is
usually
prepared by removing the â&#x20AC;&#x153;flavedoâ&#x20AC;?
sack, allowing the filtrate to stand, that it its
A
indeed,
constitution,
of lemons with a rasp, and afterwards expressing
of
carefully
it
to settle.
filtering.
it
in a hair
may deposit some Thus obtained
it
amount of mucilaginous matter,
spontaneous
decomposition,
and
thus
(acting, in short, as a ferment) accelerates a similar change
in the
itself.
oil
correct one,
we
If this view of
decomposition be a
its
evidently, in removing this matter
by means
of the water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain
the same result as
we should by
distillation,
without
waste or deterioration in flavor.
its
I
am, however, aware that some consider the deposit
Some
be modified resin.*
have shown that
to
curious experiments of Saussure
volatile oils absorb
oxygen immediately
they have been drawn from the plant, and are partially conâ&#x20AC;˘
The
deposit
to the taste, gives
is
nearly insoluble in water,
is
an acid reaction with litmus.
acid and astringent Spirit of
wine
dis-
solves out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous
substance, having a rancid smell.
pleasant-smelling resin,
mainder
is
somewhat resembling camphor.
nearly insoluble in
soluble in nitric acid,
Ether leaves a
liq.
ammonia?,
and well deserves
to
liq.
The
potassa>,
re-
more
be further examined.
Digitized by
262
APPENDIX. which remains dissolved
verted into a resin,
in the re-
mainder of the essence.
He
remarked that
absorbing oxygen
this property of
gradually increases, until a
maximum
is
ender
this
of which the
maximum
it
In the
mouth
each of which
it
its
absorbed twice
its
volume of oxygen. The
of turpentine did not attain the
oil
months,
it
In
not attained until at
then lasted twenty-six days; during
it
;
volume of oxygen.
maximum was
of lemons the
oil
of lav-
oil
remained only seven days, during each
absorbed seven times
the end of a
and again
attained,
diminishes after a certain lapse of time.
maximum
for five
then remained for one month, during which
own volume of oxygen.
time
it
absorbed daily
It
is
the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen, and
its
remaining dissolved in the essence, which destroys original flavor.
The
analogy with that of transformations, and
of turpentine, so far as regards
by
lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained
lation with water,
distil-
from American turpentine, has a molecu-
power of right-handed
lar
its
power of rotating a ray of polarized
its
Authorities differ as regards this latter property,
light.
.
its
of lemons presents a very great
oil
oil
French
rotation, while the
oil
of
rotation.
Oil of lemons
rotates a ray of light to the right, but in
France a distilled
turpentine
oil
had a left-handed
of lemons, sold as scouring drops for removing spots of
grease, possesses quite the opposite
has
power of
lemons combines with hydrochloric acid cial
pentine.
its
The
atom
is
to
form an
artificial
sented by the formula, oil
of turpentine by
only one half that of the
camphor of
Cm C.*,
II g
H
l6 ,
oil
oil
;
of lemons
artifi-
of tur-
oil
H Cl the artificial H Cl.
and
Oil of
oil.
camphor, just in the same manner as does
pentine, but
of
rotation,
the original peculiar flavor of the
lost all
is
of turrepre-
camphor
Digitized by
263
BENZOIC ACID. According
to
M.
camphor formed by the any action on polarized
Biot, the
lemons docs not exercise whilst the
The
light,
of lemons itself rotates a ray to the right.
oil
camphor from
oil
of turpentine, on the contrary, does
exercise on the polarized ray the
possessed while in
same power
oils
as the oil
isolated state, of rotating to the left.
its
These molecular properties establish an between the
essential difference
of turpentine and lemons, and
to detect adulteration
and fraud.
may
serve
It is also a curious fact,
that from the decomposition of these artificial camphors
may be
lime, volatile oils
with the
original
oils
from which the camphors were
in neither case has the
on polarized
light.
new product any action
In conclusion, I would recommend that all
other essential
by
obtained by distillation, isomeric
formed; but
as
of
oil
oils,
this
oil,
as well
be kept in a cool, dark place,
where no very great changes of temperature
occur.
BENZOIC ACID, AND TESTS FOR ITS PURITY. BY W. BASTICK. Dr. Mohrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s process for obtaining benzoic acid, which
is
adopted by the Prussian Pharmacopoeia, unquestionably has the reputation of being the best. cess, coarsely-powdered
the
flat
gum
According
benzoin
is
to
to this pro-
be strewed on
bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of
nine inches, and a height of about two inches. surface of the pot is
fastened to
thick paper
its
is
is
On
the
spread a piece of filtering paper, which
rim by starch paste.
A
cylinder of very
attached by means of a string to the top of
Digitized by
264 the
APPENDIX. Heat
irofi pot.
then applied by placing the pot on a
is
plate covered with sand, over the
must remain exposed
Mohr
mouth of
to a gentle fire
usually obtains about an ounce
acid from twelve ounces of
gum
a furnace.
It
from four to six hours.
and a half of benzoic
benzoin by the
first
subli-
the
As the gum is not exhausted by the first operamay be bruised when cold and again submitted to action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid
will
sublime from
mation. tion,
it
fectly pure
when
perfectly pure, as
portion of a fragrant volatile
the
gum
is
not per-
states that it is a question,
and perfumery point of view, whether
in a medicinal so valuable
This acid thus obtained,
it.
and white, and Mohr
oil,
when which
it
it is
contains a small
rises
from
with
it
shall
be pre-
in the process of sublimation.
The London Pharmacopoeia
directs that
it
pared by sublimation, and does not prescribe that
be free from this
oil,
to
which
it
it
shall
principally owes its agree-
able odor.
By is
the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid
What
not volatilized.
separated by boiling
remains in the resin
may be
with caustic lime, and precipitating
it
the acid from the resulting benzoate of lime with hydro-
Benzoic acid can be obtained also
chloric acid.
wet way, and the value, because
it
above -stated, gives devised
in
resin yields a greater product in
process than in the former; yet free
is it
by Scheele
its
is
it
from the
volatile oil
peculiar odor.
as follows
:
the this
has a less perfumery
which, as
The wet method
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Make
one ounce of
freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces
of hot water.
To the milk
of lime, four ounces of pow-
dered benzoin and thirty ounces of water are
and the mixture boiled this operation,
for half an hour,
and
to
be added,
stirred
and afterwards strained through
linen.
during
The
Digitized by
;
BENZOIC ACID,
265
residue must be a second time boiled with twenty ounces
of water and strained, and a third time with ten ounces the fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to onefourth of their volume, and- sufficient hydrochloric acid
When
quite cold, the
crystals are to be separated from the fluid
by means of a
added
to
render them slightly acid.
linen strainer,
upon which they are
water, and pressed, and
to
be washed with cold
then dissolved in hot distilled
When
water, from which the crystals separate on cooling.
hydrochloric acid
is
added
powder. dilute will
concentrated solution
to a cold
of the salts of benzoic acid,
it
precipitated as a white
is
If the solution jof the salts of this acid
too
is
and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid
However, the weaker the
be separated.
the more slowly
is
it is
and
cooled, the larger will be tho crystals
In the preparation of this mcid in the wet
of this acid.
way, lime
solutionis,
to
be preferred to every other base, because
it
forms insoluble combinations with the. resinous constituents of the benzoin, and because
prevents the gum-resin from
it
conglomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an excess of this base Stoltzc has
acid can be
is
but slightly soluble.
recommended
be dissolved in
spirit, to
which
solution of carbonate of soda, alcohol.
method by which
a
removed from the benzoin
The
spirit is to
is
to
:
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The
tho
all
resin
is
to
be added a watery
decomposed previously by
be removed by
distillation,
and
the remaining watery solution, from which the resin has
been separated by
filtration,
treated with dilute sulphuric
This method gives
acid, to precipitate the benzoic acid.
the greatest quantity of acid, but fice
is
attended with a sacri-
of time and alcohol, which renders
it
in
an economical
point of view inferior to the above process of Scheele-.
23
It
266 is
APPENDIX.
so far valuable, that the total acid contents of the resin
can be determined by
*
s
it.
Dr. Gregory considers the following process for obtain-
ing benzoic acid the most productive.
Dissolve benzoin in
strong -alcohol, by the aid of heat, and add to the solution, whilst hot, hydrochloric acid, in sufficient quantity to pre-
When
cipitate the resin.
the mixture
is distilled,
the ben-
zoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether.
Distilla-
must be continued as long as any ether passes over. Watet addod towards the end of the operation will facili-
tion
tate the expulsion
of the ether from the
When
retort.
ether ceases to pass over, 4he hot water in the retort tered,
which deposits benzoic acid on
ether and tic
all
potash
the distilled liquids are the ether
until
tion is heated to boiling, chloric acid, _
tads,
now
decomposed, and the
is
fil-
solu-
and super-saturated with hydrodeposits, in crys-
'
benzoic acid.
it
exists in the resin, is the natural pro-
duction of the plant from which the resin also
the
is
benzoic
treated with caus-
which afterwards, on cooling,
Benzoic acid, as
may
The
cooling.
be produced
artificially.
derived.
is
It
Abel found that w ben r
cumole (C M II 12) was treated with nitric acid, so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several days, this hydrocarbon was converted into benzoic acid. has,
Guckelberger
by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese
and sulphuric acid.
when
acid, obtained as
Albumen,
fibrin,
treated as above.
one of the products benzoic
and gelatin yielded similar results
Wohler has detected benzoic acid
in Canadian castor, along with salicin.
the oxidation of the volatile
of potash results caustic potash.
when
oil
It
is
also
of bitter almonds.
chloride of benzoyle
is
formed by Benzoate
treated with
Benzoic acid in the animal economy is con-
Digitized by
.
THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. verted into hippuric acid, which
be reconverted into benzoic
may by
.
267
the action of acids,
acid;
*
Benzoic acid should be completely volatile, without leaving
any ash in
or.
warm
When
being carbonized when heated.
water, to
which a
little nitric
dissolved
acid has been added f
and chloride of barium should produce no Oxalate of potash should give no turbidity to
nitrate of silver precipitates.
When
an ammoniacal solution ofthis acid. excess of caustic potash
monia, otherwise,
In
spirit,
it
benzoic acid
parts of cold and
part of
heated with an
should evolve no smell of am-
it
has been adulterated with is
easily soluble,
20 parts of boiling
sal
ammoniac.
and requires 200
witter to dissolve
it.
one
, '
—
.
®
'
'
\ .
•
.
71
ON THE COLORING MATTERS OF FLOWERS. BY FREMY AND CLOEZ, Chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of Their investigation in-
the coloriug matters of flowers.
volves difficulties which cannot be mistaken.
which
flowers
color
are
uncrystallized
;
The matters
they frequently
change by the action of the reagents employed preparation
for their
and, also, very brilliantly-colored flowers owe
;
their color to very small quantities of coloring matter.
On
the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several
opinions have been expressed. that flowers
owe
one of which thine.
is
Others
Some
observers have assumed
their color to only
two coloring matters,
termed anthocyan, and the other anthoxanwill find a relation
between the green color-
ing of leaves, the chlorophylle, and the coloring matters of flowers.
They support
their opinion generally
on the
results
'
APPENDIX.
268 of the elementary chemists
of
know
fatty
of those different bodies
analysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;13
;
but
all
that cliloropbylle has not yet been prepared
puro condition.
in a
Probably,
it
retains various quantities
and albuminous bodies.
Further, thd coloring
matters of flowers are scarcely known, so that
it
impos-
is
supported by the necessarily un-
sible to establish relations
certain composition of impure bodies.
Some time
since the blue color of- flowers was ascribed to
the presence of indigo
;
but Cherrcul has shown, in & cer-
tain way, that the blue substance
dened by acids; and that which, as
is
of flowers
with, indigo
known, retains
its
strongest acids are allowed to act on It
always red-
is
quite different,
when the
it.
thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have
is
heretofore only in a superficial that
it is
blue color even
it is
manner been examined, and
important to again undertake their complete ex-
amination, as these bodies are interesting to the chemist,
beeause they are employed as reagents in the laboratory for the recognition of alkalies; and by an improved knowledge
of them the
florist
might
find the
way by which he could
give to cultivated flowers various colors.
We
have believed that before undertaking their
mentary
analysis,
for the
matters of flowers, and that these
substances
bodies, or
ele-
methods must be carefully sought
which can be followed are
to
it
for
obtainment of the coloring should be proved whether
be considered as
independent
whether they proceed from one and the same
matter, which
is
changed in various ways by the juices of
the plant.
We
now
Blue
publish the results of our
Coloring Matter
blue coloring matter of flowers
To
obtain this substance
first
of Flowers
we
investigations. (
we propose
Cyanine).
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The
to call cyanine.
treat the petals of
Centauria
Digitized by
THE COLORS OF FLOWERS.
269
cyanus,
Viola odorata, or Iris pseudacorus, with boiling
alcohol,
by which the flowers are decolorized, and the liquid
acquires immediately a fine blue color.
If the coloring matter contact with alcohol,
it
allowed to remain some time in
is
perceived that the blue of the
is
liquid gradually disappears, and soon a yellow
The
tion takes its place.
brown
colora-
coloring matter has in this case
by the prolonged action of the again assume its original color when-the
suffered an actual reduction alcohol, but it will
alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air.
Nevertheless,
the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too
long with the coloring matter, because the alcoholic extract will not
then again assume
its
blue'coloration
The hol
-
.
.
residue remaining from the evaporation of treated with water,
is
resinous
of lead.
The
which separates a
The watery
substance.
the coloring matter
color,
by the action
'
of oxygen.
tfce alco-
fatty
and
which contains
solution
then precipitated by neutral acetate
is
precipitate,
which possesses a beautiful grSen
can be washed with plenty of water, add then decom-
posed with sulphuretted hydrogen; passes into the watery solution,
absolute alcohol
;
and
lastly,
the coloring matter
which
rated in a water-bath; the residue
is
is
carefully evapo-
again dissolved in
the alcoholic solution
is
mixed
with ether, which precipitates tho cyanine in the form of blue flocks.
Cyanine
is
uncrystallizable, soluble in water
insoluble in ether; acids,
red; by alkalies
it
is,
as
and acid
salts color it
and
appears to behave as an acid, at least
it
alcohol,
immediately
known, colored green.
Cyanine
forms with lime,
baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green
compounds
in-
soluble in water.
Bodies absorbing, oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphor28 *
'â&#x20AC;˘
Digitized
m t>-
Google a.
270
APPENDIX.
ous acid, and alcohols, decolorize of oxygen
its
color
is
it;
under the influence
restored.
We
must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beaubine substance from Centauria cyanus by treatment
tiful
with absolute alcohol. Rose-red Coloring Matter extract
to
the
.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;We have
substance which
colors
employed alcohol rose-red
certain
For the procuration of this method pursued is exactly as that for
dahlias, roses, poeouias, &c.
coloring matter the
the preparation of cyanine.
By
an attentive comparison of the properties of
this
we have found
that
coloring matter with those of cyanine,
the rose-red coloring matter least results
principle.
the same as the blue, or at
is
from a modification of the same independent It appears in the rose-red modification,
the juice of the plant, with which
an acid reaction.
sesses
We
it
when
exists in contact, pos-
have always observed
this
acid reaction in the juices of plants with red of rose-red coforation, while the blue juices
of plants have always ex-
hibited an alkaline reaction.
We flowers
have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored
which are cultivated in the Paris Museum to the and have seen that they first become
influence of alkalies,
blue and then green by their action. It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those
of the Mallow , and in particular those of the Hibiscus Syriaeus, acquire by fading a blue and then a green coloration,
which change, as we have found, depends on the de-
composition of an organic nitrogenous substance, which
found very frequently in the as
it
petals.
is
This body generates
decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the
flowers the blue or green color.
By
action of
Weak
acids,
the petals can be restored to their rose-i:ed color.
Digitized by
271
THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. The
alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also
be observed when the petals are very rapidly dried, for example, in ramo. by which
cannot be easily assumed that
it
a nitrogenous body has undergone decomposition
evolution of ammonia.
mentioned that in into-violet,
b
But, before
all
things,
to the
must be
it
this case the modification of color passes
and never arrives
at
green
;
and, further, that
it
always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid,
which we have detected by
which were before
rose-red,
a direct experiment.
and have become
violet
drying, evolve carb.-uie acid, and on that account
assumed that the rose-red color this
is- produced
Petals
by
it
slight
maybe
in the petals
by
by its expulsion the petals by which the flowers with neutral
carbonic acid, a'.d that
assume the blue
color,
juices are characterized.
We
believe that
we
are able to speak with certainty that
flowers with a nee-red. violet, or blue color, tion to one
owe their colora-
and the same substance, but which
in various ways
is
by the influence of the juices of
modified
plants.
Scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened acid, bat in
such eases this substance
low coloring matter which we Yellow Color iny Matter
.
will
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The
now
b
by an
mixed with a
yel-
describe.
simplest experiments
show
that no analogy exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow
and that of which we have already spoken.
The agents which generate red, violet, or green
so easily with cyanine, the rose-
coloration, cannot in
any case impart
these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers.
By
the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers,
we have
ascertained that they
substances, which differ from perties,
pendent principle.
owe
their coloration to
two
one another in their pro-
to
be derived from the same inde-
One b
completely insoluble in water,
and appear not
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 070 4M I
AEPKNDIX.
*mt
which we have termed xanthine, a name which Runge has
As this name has we h^ve employed it to denote The other
given to a yellow matter from madder. not been accepted in science,
one of the coloring matters of yellow flowers. substance
very soluble in water, and
is
by up termed
is
xautheine.
A'an thine, or the Yellow water.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;We have prepared
Coloring Matter insoluble in this coloring matter
from
many
yellow flowers, but chiefly from Melianthus annuus.
To
obtain
alcohol,
it
which
we
treat the flowers with boiling absolute
dissolves
the coloring matter in the heat,
and by cooling almost completely allows tate.
The
not pure xanthine, as
quantity of
it
again to precipi-
yellow deposit which, is obtained in this way,
oil.
To
it
oil
is
rather
considerable
we have
recourse to a
contains a
separate this
thus, we heat the yellow precipitate 3 with a small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the .xanthine, which even contains the xanthine
moderate saponification
As
dissolved.
pose
it
the coloring matter
we do not
solution,
treat the
fatty acids resulting
tate
we
treat with
fatty acids, is
a
fine
alcohol
is
soluble in the soap
mass with water, but decom-
with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the
from the
saponification.
cold alcohol,
This precipi-
which leaves behind the
and dissolves the xanthine.
This substance
yellow color, insoluble in water, but soluble in
and ether, which are thereby colored golden yellow.
It appears to
be uncrystallizable, and possesses the general
properties of resins.
Xanthine, the
.in
combination with cyanine, modified by
various juices of plants,
communicates
proportions' orange-yellow, scarlet-red,
in
variable
and red colors to
flowers.
Xantheine, or the
Coloring; Matter soluble in water
.
Âť*
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
THE COLORS OF FLOWERS. By
273
the preparation of the Bubstance which colors yellow
certain dahlias,
is at
it
once perceived that
The
logy to xanthine.
latter is
wafer, while the coloring
has no ana-
it
known
as
insoluble in
matter under consideration
is
readily soluble in water.
To
obtain the xanthine
we
treat the petals of yellow
flowering dahlias with alcohol, which quickly dissolves the
and
yellow coloring matter, besides the fat solution
is
is
fat
and
The water
resin are separated.
again evaporated to dryness, and- the residue treated with
The
absolute alcohol. is
The
resin.
evaporated to dryness, and the residue treated with
whereby the
water,
resulting solution diluted with water
mixed with neutral
the coloring matters.
acetate of lead,
The
which precipitates
lead precipitate
is
then decom-
posed with sulphuric acid, upon which the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water
Xantheine crystallizes it
is
is
purified
soluble in water, alcohol,
from none of these solutions.
intensely brown.
Its
power of coloration
It dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone, brilliancy.
duced by
by
alcohol.
Alkalies color is
considerable.
which
is
without
Acids again destroy the brown coloration pro-
alkalies.
Xantheine combines with most metallic
and forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble
bases,
The
facts
.
and ether, but
here related agree with
all
lakoe.
which has been pre-
viously observed regarding the coloring matters of flowers.
It
is
known
that blue flowers can
white, where their coloring matter
yellow
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;and
vice versa.
become is
red,
and even
destroyed, but never
These three coloring matters can
generate the colors either alone or by gdmixture, which are seen in flowers; but whether they are the only matters which color flowers,
we
are at present unable to determine.
Jour-
nal de Pharmacie.
Digitized by
274
APPENDIX.
IMPROVED PROCESS FOR BLEACHING WAX AND THE FATTY ACIDS. BY MR.
G.
F.
WILSON.
This improved process consists of two parts '
BEES’-
:
—
1st,
the
application of highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters
under treatment, by which means the requisite heat melting these substances the atmosphere applied in
its
is
obtained, and at the
thereby excluded
is
passage
off,
;
carries with
for
same time
the heated steam so it
the offensive smells
given off by the fatty matters, and being made to traverse
a pipe or passage
up
or along
which gaseous chlorine
is
allowed to flow, a complete disinfection of the offensive pro-
ducts
is
thereby effected.
2dly, the treating of bees’-wax
in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees’-wax, with
pounds of chlorine and oxygen, preferring
to
disengaged from chlorate of potash by treating phuric acid. rate, say, it
For
this purpose, J\Ir.
com-
employ that it
with sul-
Wilson takes
at the
of a ton of yellow bees’-wax, and melts and boils
up with
free
steam for about half an. hour.
allowed to staiid'a short time, and
another vessel
is
It is
then
then decanted into
provided with a steam-pipe to emit free
steam; about 20
of chlorate of potash
lbs.
the steam turned on
;
80
with a like weight of water,
lbs. is
is
added, and
of sulphuric acid, diluted
then gradually added.
The
matters are allowed to stand for a short time, and are then
decanted into another vessel, and again boiled up with free steam, and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid.
The bees’-wax is then decanted into a receiver, and The bces’-wax may, before undergoing
is. ready for use.
these processes, be combined and boiled up with a hard fatty acid,
and then treated as above described.
Digitized by
MANUFACTURE OF SOAP.
275
CHEMICAL EXAMINATION OF NAPLES SOAP. A. Faiszt has submitted
He
analysis. fat
states that
this celebrated
made by
it is
shaving soap to
saponifying mutton
with lime, and then separating the fatty acids from the
soap thus formed, by means'of a mineral acid.
These fatty
acids are afterwards combined with ordinary Caustic potash
He
to produce the Naples'soap.
found that 100 parts of
this soap contained Part*.
Fatty acids,
’
.
.
.
Potash combined with the
.
fotty acids,
.
•
.
.
“
> v .
57'14
10 39 -
Sulphate of potash, chloride of potassium, with a trace of carbonate of potash,
/
Silica, &c.,
.
AVuter,
.
.
.
.
•
.
.
*
•
4-22
.
27 68
01G .
.
.
.
**99'89 Geicerleblatt aus Wurttemberg.
MANUFACTURE OF The removal
SOAP.
of the duty from soap, and the consequent
emancipation of this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the Excise, has given a fresh impetus to the
manufacture of this important
article
of daily use, and
enabled some processes to be practically carried out in
England, which, previous to the removal of the duty, could not be adopted in this part of her Majesty’s dominions. It will doubtless
appear strange to those unacquainted
Digitized by
—
APPENDIX.
276
with the circumstances, that owing to the
mode of levying
the duty by admeasurement, and not by actual weight, the
maker of
a particular kind of soap was debarred the privi-
lege of manufacturing
Fortunately for
1
in this country.
him, the manufacture of soap being free from
was enabled
restrictions in Ireland, lie
cess in the sister
all
Excise
out his pro-
Engpayment of the Customs’ duty,
kingdom, whence
land, and admitted here on
to carry
it
was exported
which was the same as the Excise duty on
to
manufacture
its
All this roundabout method of doing business
here.
now done away
now
with, and no restriction
exists to
is
mar
the peace of the soap manufacturer.
Amongst
various
new
processes, lately introduced is that
of Mr. H. C. Jennings, which
is
practically carried out in
the following manner:
Combine 1000
of stearic
lbs.
from elaine or oleine as
or-
margaric acid, as free
possible,' or
pnlmatine, or any
vegetable or animal stearine or margarine, at the temperature of 212° Fahr., with a solution of bicarbonate of potash
Constantly
or soda, specific gravity 1500.
an intimate combination will
is
or
stir
mix
until
obtained, and that the elements
not part when tried upon glass or any other similar
substance.
When
the mass
is
cooled
down
to
about 60°
Fahr. add one pound per cent, of liquor anmioniae, specific gravity 8.80, and one
pound per
cent, of strongest solution
of caustic potash; these are to be added gradually, and fully
mixed
or stirred until perfectly combined.
18 pounds per ing
mon
it
cent, of
common
boil-
with a solution of subcarbonate of potash and com-
soda of commerce, in equal parts, as
much
the solution a specific gravity of about 1800, hot.
Dissolve 15 to
commerce, by
resin of
Mix
as will give
when
boiling
these perfectly with the above-mentioned stCario
or margaric acids, and carbonated alkali
;
then-add a strong
COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP.
277
solution of caustic potash or soda, until a perfect saponifica-
The dose
tion is produced.
of caustic alkali will
much
depend upon the purity of the stearine or margarine em-
The
ployed. salt,
separation
now
or sulphate of soda, &c., as
soap manufacturers. is to
is
be
effected is
by using common
known and
by
practised
If the soap intended to be produced
no resin must be employed, and a larger
colorless,
dose of liquor ammonias and caustic alkali must be used,
according to the dryness of the stearine matters to be operated upon.
A SIMPLE AND CERTAIN METHOD TO DETERMINE THE COMMERCIAL VALUE
-OP SOAP.
BY DR. ALEXANDER MULLER. In consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are
determined in one portion of the soap, and
the alkali by the incineration of another, I consider the
lowing method appears
to
is
quicker and more correct results
reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation. available principally for soda soaps,
common
;
but
it
fol-
not unworthy of publication, because
afford
may be
alterations for soaps
also
which are the most
employed with corresponding
which have other
A piece of soap weighing
it
by
It is
bases.
two or three grammes
is
dis-
solved in a tared beaker glass of about 160 cubic centi-
metres capacity with 80 to 100 cubic centimetres of water,
by heat, in a water-bath, and then three or four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as sary to
decompose the soap, added from a
much
as
burette.
is
neces-
When,
24
Digitized by
—
APPENDIX.
278
after repeated agitation, the fatty acids
have separated
transparent clear stratum from the aqueous solution,
in a it
is
allowed to cool, and then the contents of the beaker glass filter, which has been previously 212° Fahr. and weighed. The contents of the
are placed in a moistened dried at
washed until their acid reaction disappears. In the meanwhile the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath, are
filter
so that,
it
partly dry if it
may
being already dry,
which
filter,
were in the funnel.
The
support the washed and
on the mouth of the glass as
is laid
fatty acids soon pass
through
the paper, and for the most part flow ultimately to the
bottom of the beaker glass; the increase of weight of which, after cooling,
and the subtraction of the weight of the
filter,
A
gives the quantity of fatty acids present in the soap.
second drying and weighing
is
not necessary, if on the cold
sides of the interior of the glass
which
no damp
occasioned by a trace of water
is
is
still
to
be observed,
present. If the
quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap siderable,
it
may be
easily
is
found by incinerating the
confilter
and determining the weight of the residue.
The
fluid
runs from the fatty acids on the
filter,
which,
with the washings, has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker
glass, is
colored with tincture of litmus, and decom-
posed with a test alkaline solutioh until the blue color
The
appears.
to neutralize
difference of the quantity of alkali required
the sulphuric acid, and the quantity of sul-
phuric acid used in the to be
for
made
example
first
instance,, allows a calculation
as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap, :
23'8G grms. of soap (partly cocoa-nut “ fatty acids with filter. 17 95
oil
soap).
-
04-44
.
“
filter.
13*51 grms. of hydrates of fatty
acids=56 G2 per ,
cent.
Digitized by
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP.
279
28*00 cub. cent, of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the
decomposition of the soap, of which 100 cub. cent, represent 2982 grms. of carbonate of soda.
17*55 cub. cent, of alkaline
fluid,
which were used for the and of which 100 cub.
saturation of the above acid, cent, saturate
10 45
an equal quantity of that acid.
cub. cent, of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali
contained in the soap, representing 0*1823 grms. of
soda=7*64 per
A
cent.
determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in
another portion of soap 9*57 per cent, of soda, because the sulphate of soda and chloride of sodium present in the soap
gave up their
The
alkali.
alkaline fluid applied
tion of lime,
by
me was
a saccharine solu-
which can be naturally replaced by a solution
of soda, and must be if the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be determined in the
lowing way
The
fol-
:
fluid again exactly neutralized
with alkali
evapo-
is
rated to dryness, and the residue gently heated to redness.
As
in the above manipulation, the fluid
was not heated to
the boiling point, the original' chloride of sodium and sul-
phate of soda are contained in the weighed residue, besides the soda of the soap and that which has been added with the sulphuric acid, forming sulphate of soda.
A
second
exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the
whole residue into sulphate of soda, and from the increase of weight, by a comparison of the equivalents of
and
Na O, S Os
According the 1
:
the quantity of the former
to the equivalents
increase of
weight
may be
which Kopp furnished
to the
Na
in
chloride of sodium
4 08. The original sulphate of soda must be,
Cl
decided.
lastly,
1850, is
as
found
Digitized by
280
APPENDIX.
by the subtraction of the same In practice,
salt
sodium from the
lated chloride of it
is
formed plus the calcuheated residue.
first
seldom necessary to proceed with the
determination of the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda, except with stirred less of the truth is seen
and cocoa-nut
if,
oil
soaps; certainly
after the above determination of
the fatty acids and the effective alkali, the absent per cent-
age of water water
is
is
introduced in the calculation, than
reckoned, which
made of
determination
if
the
never completely evolved from
is
soap, even technically prepared at
302° Fahr., and another
the fatty acids or alkali en bloc the
even the alkaline contents.
fatty acids, or
The method here given partakes of
the usual imperfec-
tions, that the fatty acids as well as the unsaponified
are equally estimated,
and the mixed hydrate
of the alkali as well as the combined alkali. of the carbonate can be easily recognized
soap
or carbonate
The presence
by the foaming of
the soap solution, upon the addition of the sulphuric acid.
These imperfections, however, are of It
tion
little
importance.
must be granted that the minutely correct determinaof the constitution of soap must be always yielded up
who are technically conversant with this department of chemistry, the estimation of free alkali and unto those
changed soap.
fat
excluded
in, at
least,
by
certain ages of the
Further, a considerable excess of one or another
ingredient soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the characteristic properties of a good pro-
duct, and a small excess can be judged sufficiently exact
from the proportion of the
alkali,
which, supposing soda
present, should not
amount
a pure cocoa-nut
soap, not less than 11-5 per cent, with
a tallow soap
;
oil
to
but with palm
more than 13 per oil
or the other limit approximates
.
arid
cent,
with
mixed soaps the one
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Journal
fiir Praktische
Chemie.
Digitized by
LOWIG ON FATS.
ON THE NATURAL BY The
fats
and
which
FATS.
DR. CHARLES LOWIG.
exist in nature can be divided into the
general and the special plants
281
the former exist in
;
parts of plants
almost
all
the latter includes only some
;
vegetable substances, as laurostearine, myristicine, and pal-
The
matine.
consistence of fats of the general kind depend
upon the proportions of margarine, (butter, lard,
or
oils
and
tallow)
it is
termed
belong
olive,
and the
;
According as an
oils.
acid,
drying
latter in the fluid
To the
oil.
class
almond, hazel-nut, beech, rape
that of drying oils, linseed, nut,
ones
oils,
of fatty &o.; to
hemp, poppy, grape-seed,
&c.; which are used for varnishes.
oils,
In the vegetable kingdom the
and
olein eeon-
in the solid fats
contains oleic acid or olinic
oil
a fatty or
and
stearinc,
The former preponderate
tained in them.
in their coverings,
and in the
The
lat in
the seed
compound.
fats are chiefly in
the seeds
seldom in the perispemium (poppy),
fleshy substance surrounding the seed (olive). is
mostly enclosed in
cells
with a proteino
In the animal kingdom certain parts of the
body are quite
filled
with
fat-cells,
particularly under the
skin ( Paniculus adiposui), in the cavities of tho abdomen, in the so-called
omentum,
canals of the bones.
in the kidneys
Fat
is
and the tubulated
also enclosed in cells (fatty
globules) in milk. It
is
established, without a doubt, that a greater portion
of the fat which exists in the animal
from the vegetable kingdom,
for
it is
kingdom
originates
introduced into the
body cotemporaneously with the proteine compounds of that kingdom. A portion of the fat as well as wax is formed in 24 *
Digitized by
APPENDIX.
282
number
the animal organisinus, as shown by a tions,
and
in
most cases
of observa-
unquestionable that the non-
it is
nitrogenous nutriments, as starch, serve for the formation of
by a process of deoxidation
fat
;
nevertheless, the formation
of fat in the animal body appears only to take place
when
the substances containing starch enter the body simultaneously with
fat.
If the fat existing in the animal body cellular tissue, its separation
may be
the
flit
collects itself
is
contained in
simply effected by plac-
The
ing the incised tissue in hot water.
cells burst
and
If vege-
on the surface of the water.
table substances contain fat in large quantity, as, for example,
seeds,
it
may be
The
obtained by expression.
dried seeds
arc bruised and expressed between cither cold or hot metallic plates.
Olives are laid in heaps before expression
when
;
they begin to ferment, they can be completely expressed. If animal and vegetable substances contain only a it
must be extracted by
tasteless
;
when they
little fat,
ether.
In the pure condition the
mostly odorless and
fats are
possess an odor,
arises mostly
it
from
the presence of small quantities of volatile fatty acids, as butyric acid, capric acid, &c.
;
which becomes
free
through
the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl combinations.
This ensues by the presence of water and
air
through a kind
appears, by the presence of a
of fermentation, and as
it
nitrogenous substance.
The
fats aro
and, with the exception of castor
oil,
insoluble in water, are taken
alcohol in very small quantities, however, tion as they contain oleine.
more
up by cold in
propor-
In boiling alcohol they are
dissolved, but are, for the most part, again separated on cooling, particularly those rich in stearine.
All fats are
taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest quantity.
Digitized by
LOWIG ON FATS. Their
When
specific gravities fluctuate
between
and
‘93.
heated, fats assume a dark color, and boil between
482° and 572° Fabr., but the while
rises,
283 -91
an
From oxide of fatty acid,
boiling-point continuously
decomposition
uninterrupted
proceeds.
glycyl ensues acrolino; oleic acid affords a
and among the decomposition products of
fats
containing stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid, and, at the
When
same time, some hydro- carbons are formed.
exposed quickly to a high temperature,
pletely decomposed.
air,
fats are
com-
In closed vessels the pure
(Oil gas.)
undergo no change, but, placed in thin layers
fats
in the
the fats containing oleine andoline rapidly absorb oxygen
under the strong evolution of heat, which
will inflame
The purer the
porous bodies, as cotton .wool.
more quickly their oxidation
results.
When
fats are the
the fats con-
tain slimy materials, these latter can be destroyed with a little
oxide of lead and water.
cation of varnishes.)
The
(Preparation for the appliaction of nitric acid, nitrous
acid, chlorine, sulphuric acid, &e.,
on
that of these bodies on the fatty acids. solve sulphur in the heat
on cooling.
When
namely, with linseed thick dark mass
By
is
which
sulphur oil,
it
is
is
fats
the same as
is
The
fatty oils dis-
again partly precipitated
heated with
dissolves
fatty
oils,
by degrees, and a
formed, the so-called balsam of sulphur.
raising the heat, a violent reaction ensues
under the
evolution of sulphuretted hydrogen, and, at the same time,
an
oil
resembling
to boil at ally.
oil
of garlic volatilizes.
160° Fahr., but
its
This
oil
begins
boiling-point rises continu-
1
Digitized by
APPENDIX.
284
PERFUMES AS PREVENTIVES OF MOULDINESS. An
interesting paper on this subject has been published
by Dr. Macculloch. that mouldiness
is
We
presume our readers are aware by the growth of minute
occasioned
Ink, paste, leather, and seeds, are the sub-
vegetables.
stances that most frequently suffer from cloves in preserving ink oils
answer equally
is
known
well
Leather
well.
perfumed with the
is
mouldy; indeed
A few
bodies. to
it
prevents
tar of birch,
is
drops of any essential
recommended.
of
from
leather,
never becomes
from occurring in other
it
keep books entirely free from
turpentine
effect
free
Thus Russian
mould by the same substances. which
The
it.
any of the essential
;
may be kept
it.
oil
are sufficient also
For harness,
oil
of
Bookbinders, in general, em-
ploy alum for preserving their paste; but mould frequently
forms on
Shoemakersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; resin
it.
the same purpose
The
tine. oils,
best
but
;
it is less
is
sometimes
also
used for
effectual than oil of turpen-
preventives, however, are
the essential
even in small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise,
or cassia, by which paste
time
;
The
paste
indeed,
it
may be kept
has, in this way,
almost any length of
been preserved for years.
recommended by Dr. Macculloch is made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little corrosive sublimate ; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the sublimate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by
insects.
of any of the essential
oils
After
it is
are added.
made, a few drops Paste made in this
way dries when exposed to the air, and may be used merely by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, it
a
ought
to
be put into covered pots.
Seeds
may
also
be
Digitized by
BASTICK ON FUSEL OIL. preserved by the essential oils; and this
is
285 of great conse-
quence, when they are to be sent to a distance.
much
moisture must be excluded as
Of course
as possible, as the oils
or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould.
FUSEL
OIL.
BY W. BASTICK. This organic compound was
first
discovered by Scheele,
as one of the distillation products of the wort obtained from
the fermentation of potatoes.
examined by
Pelletier,
now termed
generally
Dumas, Cahours, and
is
others.
It is
the hydrate of the oxide of amyl,
from amyl being supposed cyanogen
It has been subsequently
to
be
its
base or radical, as
regarded to be the radical of another series of
compounds. It passes over towards the termination of the distillation
process in a white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery
and alcoholic solution of the
fusel
sisting of about one-half of its
may be
purified,
oil.
The crude
oil,
con-
weight of alcohol and water,
being shaken with water and
redistilled,
with the previous addition of chloride of calcium.
When
the temperature of the contents of retort reaches 296° Fahr.,
pure fusel Fusel
oil distils
oil is
over.
a colorless oily fluid,
not an unagreeable odor, but at
which possesses
last is
at first
very disgusting, pro-
ducing oppression at the chest and exciting cough.
It has
a sharp hot taste, and burns tfith a white blue flame. It 4° Fahr; it boils at 296° Fahr., aud at temperature of
—
becomes
solid,
and forms
crystals.
Its specific gravity at
Digitized by
—
286 59° it
APPENDIX. 0-8124, and
Falir. is
its
formula C,„II la O a
On paper
.
produces a greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and
when exposed
of the air
to the action
reaction.
Fusel
imparts
odor; and soluble in
its
oil is slightly
and fixed
ether, volatile
oils,
it
acquires an acid
soluble in water, to all
and
which
it
proportions in alcohol,
acetic acid.
phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine withojit
It dissolves
any noticeable
change, and also mixes with caustic soda and potash.
It
rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid, with the disengagement
When mixed
of heat.
with concentrated sulphuric acid,
the mixture becomes of a violet-red color, aniT bisulphatc of
amyloxide
By
it.
Nitric acid and chlorine decompose
formed.
is
distillation
its
with anhydrous phosphoric acid, a
By
combination of hydrogen and carbon results.
fluid, oily
oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, yields valerianic acid,
fusel oil
and
which
is
used in medicine,
employed as a flavoring ingredient in con-
apple-oil,
fectionery.
ESSENCE OF FINE-APPLE. BY W. BASTICK. The above
essence
is,
as already known, butyric ether more
or less diluted with alcohol
mended
;
to obtain
which pure, on the
and economically, the following process
large scale
is
recom-
:
Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid, in
20
lbs.
of boiling water.
several days
with 3
levigated
;
Let the solution stand
for
then add 8 ounces of putrid cheese broken up
skimmed and curdled sour milk and 3 lbs. of chalk. The mixture should be kept and stirred
lbs.
of
Digitized by
287
PINE-APPLE FLAVOR. a
daily in
warm
temperature of about 92°
place, at the
Fahr., as long as gas
is
evolved, which
is
generally the case
for five or six weeks.
The
liquid thus obtained,
is
mixed with an equal volume
of cold water, and 8 lbs. of crystallized carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in water, added. It
the precipitated carbonate of lime evaporated down to 10
lbs.,
when 5$
then
is
the
;
lbs.
from
filtered
filtrate
is
be
to
of sulphuric acid,
previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are to be carefully added.
The
butyric acid, which separates on the
surface of the liquid as a dark-colored
and the
rest of the liquid distilled
oil, is
to
be removed,
the distillate
;
is
now
neutralized with carbonate of soda, and the butyric acid
separated as before, with sulphuric acid.
The whole of
the crude acid
is
to
be
with the
rectified
addition of an ounce of sulphuric acid to every pouud.
The
distillate is
then saturated with fused chloride of
cal-
The product will be about 28 ounces To prepare the butyric acid or essence Mix, by from this acid proceed as follows
cium, and redistilled.
of pure butyric acid. of pine-apple,
:
—
weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol,
and two parts of sulphuric acid
in a retort,
and submit the
whole, with a sufficient heat, to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes over ceases to emit a fruity odor.
By
treating the distillate with chloride of calcium, and
its redistillatiori,
The
the pure ether
specific gravity, 0-904,
0+C
8
may be
boiling-point of butyric ether
II
7
0
s
and
its
formula,
by
obtained.
is
238° Fahr.
Cu
II ia
04
,
or
Its
C4 Hs
.
Bensch’s process, above described, for the production of butyric acid, affords a remarkable exemplification of the
extraordinary transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or
by
catalytic action.
When
cane
Digitized by
APPEND fX.
288 sugar
is
treated with tartaric acid, especially under the in-
fluence of heat,
it
This
converted into grape sugar.
is
grape sugar, in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous substances, such
cheese,
as
is
transformed
in the
first
instance into lactic acid, which combines with the lime of
the chalk.
The
acid of the lactate of lime, thus produced,
by the further influence of the ferment changed into Hence, butyrate of lime is the final result
is
butyric acid.
of the catalytic action in the process we*have here recom-
mended.
/
PREPARATION OF CRUDE PELARGONATE OF ETHYL-OXIDE (ESSENCE OF QUINCE.) BY DR. It has
R.
WAGNER.
been believed, until the most reoent period, that
the peel of quinces contains oenanthylate of ethyl-oxide.
New
researches, however, have led to the supposition that
the odorous principle of quinces
of pelargonic acid. nitric acid
on
oil
In
my
is
derived from the ether
last research
on the action of
of rue, I found that besides the fatty acids,
which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic acid formed.
is
This process may be advantageously employed for
the preparation of crude pelargonate of ethyl-oxide, which,
on account of
its
extremely agreeable odor,
as a fruit essence equally with those prepared
Hofmann, and Fehling.
may be
which can be named the essence of quince, treated with double
its
applied
by Doberciner,
For the preparation of the oil
liquid,
of rue
is
quantity of very diluted nitric acid,
and the mixture heated until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to be observed in the liquid the upper :
Digitized by
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. one
is
289
brownish, and the lower one consists of the products
of the oxidation of
The lower
layer
oil
of rue and the excess of nitric acid.
freed from the greater part of
is
flocks frequently
found in the acid liquid, which are pro-
bably fatty acids, are separated by is
mixed with
which a
spirit,
The
filtrate
may
be purified by dis-
spirituous solution of pelargonic ether
be profitably prepared from
Gottlieb’s
The
in a gentle heat, by which has the agreeable odor of
quince in the highest degree, and
also
filtration.
and long digested
fluid is formed,
tillation.
its nitric
The white
acid by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath.
method
oleic
may
acid, according to
—Journal fUr Praktische Chemie.
.
PREPARATION OF RUM-ETIIER. Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric
acid,
each twelve pounds; of alcohol, twenty-six pounds; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds. pints.
merce
The
Mix, and
ether, as above prepared,
in Austria, being the
peculiar flavor
.
body
to
is
an
distil
article
twelve
of com-
which rum owes
its
—Austrian Journal of Pharmacy.
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. BY FEHLINO. Pine-apple Oil
is
a solution of one part of butyric ether,
in eight or ten parts of alcohol. this ether,
For the preparation of
pure butyric acid must be
first
obtained by the
fermentation of sugar, according to the method of Rensch. 25
Digitized by
APPENDIX.
290 One pound alcohol,
of this acid
is
;
the mixture
is
mixed with half
to half
an ounce of
heated for some minutes,
is
whereby the butyric ether separates
The whole
pound of strong
dissolved in one
and mixed with from a quarter
sulphuric acid
as a light stratum.
volume of water, and the
its
upper stratum then removed ; the heavy
fluid is
distilled,
by which more butyric ether is obtained. The distillate and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water, the lighter portion of the liquid removed, which at last, by being shaken with water and a
little
soda, is freed
from
adhering acid.
For the preparation of the essence of pine-apple, one
pound of hol. to
citric or tartaric acid
Pear-oil
.
—This
is
if
a
little
has been added.
an alcoholic solution of acetate of
one pound of glacial acetic acid fusel-oil
alco-
this solution is sufficient to give
amyloxide, and acetate of ethyloxide.
of
10 pounds of
this ether is dissolved in 8 or
20 or 25 drops of
one pound of sugar a strong taste of pine-apple,
is
For
added
to
its
preparation,
an equal weight
(which has been prepared by being washed with
soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature between
254° and 284° Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of The mixture is digested for some hours at
sulphuric acid.
a temperature of 254°, by which means acetate of amyl-
oxide separates, particularly on the addition of some water.
The crude by the
acetate of amyloxide obtained by separation,
distillation
and
of the liquid to which the water has
been added, is finally purified by being washed with soda and water. Fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of alcohol ; this is the essence of pear, which, when employed to flavor sugar or syrup, to
^
which a
little citric
or tartaric
acid has been added, affords the flavor of bergamot pears,
and
a fruity, refreshing taste.
Digitized by
OIL OF GAULTHKRIA PROCUMBENS. Apple-oil
It is obtained
oxide.
291
an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyl-
is
impure, as a by product, when for with
the preparation of valerianic acid, fusel-oil
is distilled
bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid.
It is better pre-
pared in the following manner
:
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;For
valerianic acid, 1 part of fusel-oil is
the preparation of
mixed gradually with 3
A
parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 parts of water added. solution of
of water,
is
2}
parts of bichromate of potash, with 4 } parts
heated in a tubulated
the former mixture tion
is
is
not too rapid.
retort,
and into
this fluid
gradually poured, so that the ebulli-
The
distillate is saturated
bonate of soda, and wanned,
when a
solution of
with car-
3 parts of
crystallized carbonate of soda, 2 parts of strong sulphuric acid, diluted
with an equal quantity of water, are added.
The valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum. One part, by weight, of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal weight of sulphuric acid. The cold solution is
added
ture
is
to
1J parts of the above valerianic acid; the mixfor some minutes (not too long or too much)
warmed
and then mixed with a little water, by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates, which is washed with water and carbonate of soda. For in a water-bath,
use as an essence of apples, one part of this valerianate of
amyloxide
is
dissolved in 6 or 8 parts of alcohol.
VOLATILE OIL OF GAULTIIERIA PROCUMBENS. BY W. BASTICK. 4
The chemical
history of this oil
tance and interest, affording, as
it
is
one of great impor-
does, one of the exam-
Digitized by
292 pies
APPENDIX. where the progress of modern chemistry has succeeded
in producing artificially a
only
known
This
complex organic body, previously
as the result of vital force.
volatile oil is obtained
American shrub of the heath
from the winter-green, an
family,
by
When
distillation.
which conbut when the temperature reaches 464°
this plant is distilled, at first an oil passes over sists
H
C 10
of
Fahr., a pure
s,
oil
distils
portions
Therefore the
into the receiver.
essential oil of this plant, like
many
others, consists of
two
—
one a hydro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated
compound ; this latter is the chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so much chemical interest, from the fact that it has
been
oxide of methyl, and spirit,
artificially
when thus
It is termed,
is
prepared.
prepared, the spiroylate of the
obtained
when two
parts of
liquid, of
It
an agreeable aromatic odor and
taste
is ;
a colorless it
slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether
hol
;
cific
wood
one and a half parts of spiroylic acid, and one part
of sulphuric acid are distilled together.
it
boils
dissolves
and
alco-
between 411° and 435° Fahr., and has a spe-
1T73.
gravity of
This compound expels carbonic
its combinations, and forms a series of salts, which contain one atom of base and one atom of spiroylate
acid from
of the oxide of methyl. gate acid.
The
Its
by treating
it
It behaves therefore as a conju-
is C 14 H 0 +C II, O. s 5 2 may be separated from the
formula
spiroylic acid
natural
oil
with a concentrated solution of caustic potash
at a temperature of
113° Fahr., when wood
spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with sulphuric acid,
the spiroylic acid separates Spiroylic acid ligenic
indigo,
acid, is
is also
and subsides
in the fluid.
formed by the oxidation of spiroy-
and when saligenin,
salicin,
courmacin, or
heated with caustic potash.
Digitized by
\
298
ODORS OF FRUIT NOT ALWAYS PERFUMES.
OX THE APPLICATION OF ORGANIC CHEMISTRY TO PERFUMERY. V BY DR. Professor
to the
W. HOFMANN,
A.
Royal
College
of Chemistry, London.
Cahoursâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; excellent researches concerning the essential oil
of Gaullheria
procumbcns (a North American plant of
the natural order of the Ericinac of Jussieu), which admits
of so
many
field in this oil
applications in perfumery,* have opened a
The
branch of industry.
among compound
ethers
new
introduction of this
must necessarily direct the
attention of perfumers']' towards this important branch of
compounds, the number of which labors of those
The
who apply
is
daily increasing
by the
themselves to organic chemistry.
striking similarity of the smell of these ethers to that
had not escaped the observation of chemistry ; howwas reserved to practical men to discover by which it might be possible to imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety, that makes it pn> bable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural com-
of fruit ever,
it
choice and combinations
bination identical to that produced to enable the
by
art
;
so
much
so, as
chemist to produce from fruits the said com-
binations, provided he could have at his disposal a sufficient
The manufacture
quantity to operate upon.
aromatic
oils for
the purpose of perfumery];
recent branch of industry; fallen
into
nevertheless,
the hands of several
sufficient quantity to
* Qy. Confectionery ?
a
;
| Qy- Confectioners
?
artificial
of course, a
it
has already
distillers,
supply the trade
of
is,
who produce
fact,
which has
J Confectionery.
â&#x20AC;˘u*
Digitized by
294
APPENDIX.
not escaped the observation of the
In visiting the
hibition.
fumers
at the Crystal Palace,
J ury
at the
London Ex-
of English and French per-
stalls
we found
a great variety of
these chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at
the same time practically illustrated by confectionery
vored by them. oils sent to
fla-
However, as most of the aimples of the
the Exhibition were but small, I was prevented,
many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. The largest samples were those of a compound labelled " pear-oil,” which, by analysis, I discovered to be an alcoin
holic solution of pure acetate of amyloxide. sufficient quantity to purify it for it
with potash, by which free
Not having
combustion, I dissolved
fusel-oil
was separated, and
determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver
salt.
0'3080 gram, of silver salt=0’1997 gram, of silver.
The per centage of silver in Theory,
acetate of silver
is,
according to
........
Experiment,
64 68 64'55
The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of preparing it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part
and two parts of acetate of potash, had a
fusel-oil,
striking smell of fruit, but
it
acquired the pleasant flavor of
the jargonelle pear only after having been diluted with six
times I
its
volume of
spirit of wine.
pon further inquiry I learned that considerable quanof this oil are manufactured by some distillers, from
—
tities
fifteen to
twenty pounds weekly,
who employ
it
chiefly in
—and
sold to confectioners,
flavoring pear-drops,
nothing else but barley-sugar, flavored with this I
which are oil.
found, besides the pear-oil, also an apple-oil, whioh, ac*
cording to oxide.
my
analysis, is
Every one must
nothing but valerianate of amylrecollect the insupportable smell
Digitized by
!
ODORS NOT ALWAYS PERFUMES. of rotten apples which
By
valerianic acid.
295
the laboratory whilst making
fills
operating upon this raw distillate pro-
removed, and
duced with diluted potash, valerianic acid
is
an ether remains behind, which, diluted in
five or six
volume of
its
of wine,
spirits
is
possessed of
times
the most
pleasant flavor Šf apples.
The
essential oil*
the pine-apple
most abundant in the Exhibition was
which, as you well know,
oil,
but the butyrate of ethyloxide. in the
like
attained
Even
hy diluting the ether with
ether which
is
nothing else
in this combination,
former, the pleasant flavor or scent
is
employed
employed in England pine-apple ale.
to flavor
only
butyric
bad rum,
to flavor
is
an acidulated drink called
For this purpose they generally do not em-
by
ploy pure butyric acid, but a product obtained cation of butter,
is
The
alcohol.
Germany
in
and subsequent
distillation
concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol
;
saponifi-
of the soap with
which product
contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but never-
theless can be used for flavoring spirits.
The sample I made with
analyzed was purer, and appeared to have been
pure butyric ether.
Decomposed with potash and, changed
into silver salt, it
gave 0'4404 gram, of silver salt=0 2437 gram, of silver. -
The per centage of
silver in the butyrate of silver is ac-
cording to
5538
Theory,
Experiment,
Both
.
.
.
.
and French
English
.
.
55â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;33
exhibitors have also sent
samples of cognac-oil and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the
common *
sorts of brandy.
The
writer
means
As
these samples were
ether
Digitized by
298
APPENDIX.
There were, besides the above, several other oils
they
;
all,
however, were more or
in so small quantities, that
their exact nature,
and
it
it
less
artificial
complicated,
was impossible
and
to ascertain
was doubtful whether they had
the same origin as the former.
The quite
application of organic chemistry to perfumery is
new
;
it is
probable that the study of
or ethereal combinations already known,
the ingenuity of the chemist
all
the ethers
and of those which
daily discovering, will en-
is
large the sphere of their practical applications.
The
capryl-
ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their
aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide
is
possessed of
the most intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the manufacturers of perfumes
.
—Annalen
der Chemie.
CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE “ JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS.”* Chemistry and Perfumery. Sir,
When
such periodicals as
“ Household Words” and
the “ Family Herald” contain scientific matters, treated iu
a manner to popularize science,
must
feel gratified
pected, and it is
is
;
a
all real
little fiction,
a
lovers of philosophy
little
metaphor,
is
ex-
accepted with the good intention with which
given, in such popular prints
;
but when the “Journal of
the Society of Arts” reprints quotations from such sources,
without modifying or correcting their expressions, *
it
con-
No. 49.
Digitized by
;
ODORS NOT ALWATS PERFUMES. benzol can be coal-tar
won without
297
difficulty in great quantity
from
In his essay, which contains many interesting
oil.
he speaks likewise
details about the practical use of benzol,
of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented nitro-
The Exhibition has proved
benzol in great quantity.
that
by the perfumers. Among French perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter almonds, and under the still more poetical name of “ essence de mirbane,” several his observation has not been left unnoticed
samples of essential
oils,
which are no more nor
less
than
I was not able to obtain accurate details about
nitrobenzol.
the extent of this branch of manufacture, which seems to
be of some importance. factured with success. Mansfield, which
is
In London, this
article is
The apparatus employed
worm, the upper extremity of which divides or tubes,
is
manu-
that of
very simple. It consists of a large glass in
two branches
Through one
which are provided with funnels.
of these funnels passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid the other
is
destined as a receiver of benzol, which, for this
purpose, requires not to be quite pure
where the two tubes branch together,
which
out,
;
at the angle
from
the two bodies meet
and instantly the chemical combination takes place,
cools sufficiently
The product
is
by passing through the glass worm.
afterwards washed with water, and some
diluted solution of carbonate of soda ;
it is
then ready for
use. Notwithstanding the great physical similarity
nitrobenzol and
oil
of bitter almonds, there
is
between
yet a slight
difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced
nose.* soap,
However, nitrobenzol
is
very useful in scenting
and might be employed with great advantage by con-
fectioners
and cooks, particularly on account of
its safety,
being entirely free from prussic acid. * See
“
Almond.”
Digitized by
800
APPENDIX. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and
perfumes.
West
in the
Indies
;
but enough has been
refute the cow-house story.
This story
is
said, I hope, to
founded on the
can be obtained from the draining
fact that Benzoic acid
of stables, and that Benzoic acid has rather a pleasant odor.
Some
of the largest wholesale perfumers use five or six
pounds of
gum
benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic
The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared for commercial purposes ; as also the fruit
acid.
essences.
Those of your readers interested in what really
used in perfumery, are referred to the the
last six
is
numbers of
“ Annals of Pharmacy and Practical Chemistry,”
article
“Perfumery.”
Your obedient servant, Septimus Piesse.
Chemistry and Perfumery.* Sir,
The
to this
term “ perfumery”
perfumed
about chemistry and perfumery, in
discussion
amounts
reality
to
:
Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the
such things as Eau de Cologne, &c.j
he does not appear
soaps, groceries, &c.,
as “ perfumery.”
used for the
Now the artificial
latter substances,
in
common
and, I should say, in a perfumer’s nomenclature
be included in perfumery. being used for perfumery
work a
called, I believe,
full
and
description
its
is
The is to
to class
scents are as yet chiefly
which
language,
also,
would
authority for cows’ urine
be found in a
“La Chimie
little
French
de l’Odorat” in which
given of the collection of fresh urine
application to this purpose.
I need scarcely say,
* No. 50.
Digitized by
—
CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY. that
301
the benzoic acid of the urine which
it is
is
the odor-
iferous principle.
Your obedient
servant,
A [When
benzoic acid
is
cesses, it is fret from the
panies to
it
which
frat/rant volatile oil which
when prepared by sublimation from oil the acid of commerce owes its
This fact completely
Perfumer.
prepared by any of the wet pro-
the above assertion.
nullifies
accom-
the resin, and peculiar odor.
Septimus
Piesse.]
Chemistry and Perfumery.* Sir,
If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery*,
published in No. 50 of your Journal, and intended
as a reply to
mine
—though
none was needed
—which
ap-
peared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature
he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, “ confine the term perfumery” to various odoriferimplies,
ous substances^ and exclude scented soaps; because he would
be aware that one-third of the returns of every manufacturis derived from perfumed soap. I do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, “ groceries,
ing perfumer
the
&c.
et ca-tera
meaning, I presume, “ confectionery,”
because perfumery has to do with one of the senses, smelling, while groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another,
taste ; and had not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and manufactures would have defined them
:
I therefore
fruits are not
repeat, that the
let
artificial
essences of
used in perfumery, as stated in No. 47, from
the quoted authorities.
him now do
so,
11
If any
man can deny
this assertion,
or forever after hold his peace,” at *
No. 52.
2G
Digitized by
—
302
APPENDIX. upon
least
Arts”
is
sayed,
it
The “Journal of
this subject.
medium
not a
ment be made
the Society of
of mere controversy.
in error, let truth correct
it,
If a state-
which, if gain-
should be done, not under the veil of an anonymous
name
correspondent, but with a
to support the assertion.
Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the belongs the anonymous ink-spiller.
political alone
I am,
sir,
yours faithfully,
Septimus Piesse. 42 Chapel
Street,
Edgvvare Road.
[If the word flavor
who have
had been used by the various authors word
written upon this subject, in place of the
perfume, the dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented pine-apple
oil,
:
the word
&c., implies,
perfume, applied to pear-oil,
and the general tenor of the
remarks of the writers leads the reader to
infer, that these
who not
only do not, but
substances are used by perfumers,
cannot use them in their trade.
But
for flavoring nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these
ethers, or oils as the writers
used,
and quite
term them, are extensively
and Bastick.
However, the glorious
achievements of modern chemistry have not
by
this
Hoffman,
in accordance with assertions of
Playfair, Fehling,
misapplication
of
a
trade
lost
term.
anything
Septimus
Piesse.]
Digitized by
—
803
OTTOS FROM PLANTS,
OTTOS FROM PLANTS. Quantities of Ottos, otherwise Essential oils, yielded
by various Plants. or otto.
Pounds
Orange-peel,
Dry marjoram
.
“ Fresh “ “ Peppermint, “ Dry . “
Origanum,
“
Thyme,
“
Calamus,
10 yield about u
1 OZ.
.
.
.
20
.
.
.
.
100
u
3 oz.
.
.
.
.
100
u
3 to 4 oz.
.
.
.
herb,
.... ....
.
25
.
25
.
20
u il
u
3 oz.
3 to 4 oz. 2 to 3 oz. 1 to
1} oz.
.
25
u
3 to 4 oz.
Anise-seed,
.
25
9 to 12 oz.
Caraway,
.
25
u a
Cloves,
.
1
Cinnamon,
25
a
.
3 oz.
Cassia,
25
u
.
3 oz.
Cedar-wood,
28
a
.
.
2
.
2
.
GO
u
14
u
.
1 oz.
112
a
16 oz.
Mace, Nutmegs, Fresh balm herb, . . Cake of bitter almond, Sweet
flag root,
.
....
Geranium
leaves,
Lavender
flowers,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.... Myrtle Patchouly herb, .... leaves,
Province rose blossom,
Rhodium-wood,
.
....
Santal-wood, Vitivert or kus-kus-root,
.
.
.
.
.
.
16 oz.
u
2$ oz.
4 oz.
it
a
3 oz. 3 to 4 oz. 1 c-*-
o
1
os
a
2 oz.
112
a
30 to 32 oz.
112
u
5 oz.
112
112
a
a
28 oz.
.
112
.
112 112
a
.
30
112
a
.
15 oz.
il
1$ to 2 drac 3 to 4 oz. oz.
"Digitized by
APPENDIX,
304
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. French Weights and Measures compared with English. Troy
Imperial
1,
.
•
0-22010
1,
•
.
Lbs. Avoird.
Kilo-
Grains. grammes.
Grammes.
Gallons.
Litrei.
.
15-434
i,
•
2-20486 4-40971
2,
•
.
0-44019
2,
.
.
.
30-868
2,
.
.
3,
.
.
0 06029
3,
.
.
.
46-302
3.
.
.
4,
•
.
0-88039
4,
•
.
.
61-736
4,
•
•
8-81943
.
M0048
5,
.
.
.
77-170
Of
•
•
11-02429
6,
.
.
1-32058
6,
.
.
.
92-604
6,
u
•
.
1-54068
U
•
.
.
108-038
7,
.
.
15-43400
8,
.
.
1-76077
8,
.
.
.
123-472
8,
.
.
17-63886
.
1-98087
9,
.
.
.
138-906
9,
.
.
19-84371
5,
9,
6-61457
13-22914
.
English Weights and Measubes compared with French.
Troy
Imp.
Lb*.
Kilo-
!
Gallons. i,
•
Litres. •
Grammes. Avoird.
jGrains.
4-54346
1,
.
.
0 06479
1,
.
grammes. .
0-45354
2,
.
.
2,
.
.
0-12958
2,
.
.
0-90709
3,
.
.
13 03038
3,
.
.
0 19438
3,
.
.
1-36063
4,
.
.
18-17384
4,
.
*
0-25917
4,
.
.
1-81418
5,
.
.
22-71730
5,
.
.
0-32396
5,
.
.
2-26772
6,
.
.
27-20076
6,
.
.
0-38875
6,
.
.
9-08692
j
7,
•
•
31 80422
8,
.
.
36-34768
9'
•
'
40-89114
j
'
2-72126
7,
.
.
0-45354
7,
.
.
3-17481
8,
.
.
0-51834
8,
.
.
3-62835
9,
.
.
0-58313
9,
.
.
4-08190
I
Digitized by
Digitized by
Digitized by
Digitized by