nude food. Your free food & wine feel-good fix.
NOVEMBER 2017
contents
18
Peri-Peri Chicken
26
Waterbiscuit Wonderful
22
Hot & Sour Fish Salad
CONTENTS.
November 2017
014 THE ROUNDUP 006 FIERY MEXICAN SOUP A soup by home chef Chantelle Cauchi Where to go, what to do, what's happening, that'll fire up those pistons this fall. and what's new. 016 ON THE TABLE 008 ZHUG Move over harissa, there's a new kid in Mouth-watering recipes using a myriad of town. different spices.
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SPICE ADVICE 010 A quick low-down on the most commonly used spices.
PERI-PERI CHICKEN 018 A hugely tasty peri-peri chicken recipe that everyone loves (just like Nando's does it).
THE PRICE OF SPICE 012 Why some spices are more expensive than others, and why they're worth it.
SWEET & SPICY STICKY CHICKEN 020 Sweet & spicy sticky Asian chicken thighs by home cook Chantelle Cauchi.
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contents
34
Ode to the Pomegranate
14
The Spice Issue Recipes
60 46
I Love Montalcino
Spicy Sweets
HOT & SOUR FISH SALAD 022 AUBERGINE WITH BUTTERMILK 036 Absolutely delicious baked aubergine with A Thai recipe also known as Yam Plaa buttermilk sauce and pomegranate seeds. Yaang by cook Andrew Chubb. 046 PAD KRAPOW PORK 024 SPICY SWEETS Some gorgeous desserts that'll inspire you A simple, easy to prepare pork dish which to experiment with spice. is a common Thai street food dish. 052 WATERBISCUIT WONDERFUL 026 RECIPES All the recipes from the delicious dishes A trio of dishes inspired by spice, by Chef Brady Dalli at Waterbiscuit. throughout this issue. ODE TO THE POMEGRANATE 034 I LOVE MONTALCINO 060 Rustically elegant starters or sides using Lisa Borain's visit to Montalcino, Tuscany, pomegranates. home to Brunello di Montalcino wine. www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 003
contributors
contribution.
This issue's focus is on beloved spice (and all things nice), offering you loads of awesomely flavoursome recipes incorporating a myriad of different spices from all over the world. We also go into the subject more deeply with a couple of articles offering some quick tid-bits on the most common spices in the cupboard, and also why some spices are so much more expensive than others - and why they're worth it. This issue, we simultaneously celebrate the inseason pomegranate, bringing you savoury and sweet recipes for those now-abundant fruits. My editor's picture is black this issue, in tribute to Daphne Caruana Galizia, whose work on Taste & Flair magazine always inspired me and so many others.
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contributors
this issue's f eature contributors... Publisher LB Publishing Ltd. Editor Lisa Borain
BRADY DALLI Executive Sous Chef, Intercontinental Malta @bradydalli
CHANTELLE CAUCHI Home Cook, Photographer, Stylist @islandeats
Photography Chantelle Cauchi Ivan Ebejer Nude Food Contributors Brady Dalli Elisabeth Cardona Chantelle Cauchi Andrew Chubb Ivan Ebejer Debbie Schembri Advertising info@nudefoodmalta.com
IVAN EBEJER Photographer & Stylist
ANDREW CHUBB Home Cook
@ivanebejer
@ajcgeo
follow us... @nudefoodmalta @foodinmalta
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission from the publisher. The information contained in this publication is believed to be correct at the time of going to print, however changes in circumstances may impact on the accuracy of the information. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure that the organisations and/or individuals featured in this publication are reputable, the publisher shall not be held liable for the material submitted, whether photographic or written. The publisher does not accept liability for services rendered by the said organisations and/or individuals and no guarantee can be given that the said organisations and/or individuals will meet their obligations. Š LB Publishing Ltd. 2017
COVER Shellfish & Cardamom Custard with a Prawn & Tomato Tartare and Prawn Arancini by Chef Brady Dalli, Intercontinental Malta. Feature on page 26.
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update
the roundup. Where to go, what to do, what's happening, and what's new.
BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK Provided it’s food-grade activated charcoal, eating it is really good for you. This kind of charcoal has been used for ages in air filters, water purifiers and gas masks, and has an amazing ability to absorb toxins in the body. It also helps whiten teeth and treats alcohol poisoning, as well as helps prevent hangovers. Find it in pills or powder, and there are loads of recipes to try with it. Here, Ora Speciality Coffee in Melbourne is serving up their sticky ancho pork with a carrot, red cabbage and kohlrabi slaw, served in a charcoal bun. So eat this and avoid a hangover? We're in!
MUST-HAVE NEW GA
We bring you some of the newest food gadgets this season. Are t
THE FARM The Farm at Cape Kidnappers is the new 24-room lodge in the world-class wine region on New Zealand’s North Island, Hawke’s Bay. The fabulous new hotel overlooks the Pacific, while Chef Dale Gartland serves lamb braised in Pinotage from nearby Te Awa Winery.
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iGadget Watermelon Slicer
What is it exactly? A double-bladed, flexible scoop used to segment a gourd along its interior wall, then grip and lift the portion.
Nessie Soup Ladle
What is it exactly? A soup
ladle designed by Ototo which has feet to keep it upright in pots. It’s made from 100% nylon and is of course, food safe.
food update inspiration
ADGETS?
they worth considering? You decide.
f
WILD. FORAGED. DISTILLED. The above are the three words that the progressive hebridean distillers of The Botanist use to describe their lovely gin. ‘The Botanist is the essence of our philosophy, our art and our pioneering spirit.’ We’re all for that.
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TOKYO’S DESSERT CRAZE Mochi creams are Tokyo’s latest dessert craze. They're made with steamed mochi rice formed into balls which are filled with whipped cream and other fillings like caramel pudding, banana, chocolate, green tea and red sweet potato.
BABA LIKE IN MONTE-CARLO
Mr. Tea Infuser
What is it exactly? A tea
infuser by Fred which perches on the rim of your tea cup so you don't have to worry about fishing it out. Important.
In celebration of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester’s 10th anniversary, the 'Baba like in Monte-Carlo' is a seven-course tasting menu in celebration of the anniversary. It’s on from October 25thDecember 23rd at £280 per person. www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food.
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ISSUE It’s not difficult to come up with some explosive recipes when the theme is spice. You’re about to find dishes which have been inspired from all corners of the world; Mexico, Israel, Thailand, and certainly not to be missed, Malta. >> www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 009
food inspiration
Spice Advice.
A few tid-bits on the most common spices.
PAPRIKA Has a pungent taste when heated, which evokes its peppery origins. It’s mostly available in 3 varieties: sweet, hot and smoked. You can use spicy paprika in place of sweet, but the final product will have much more of a kick. Smoked paprika will impart a different flavour altogether. CLOVES Have a fruity hot taste with a warm aroma and undertones of camphor and pepper. They go well with savoury and sweet foods, but must be used sparingly. TUMERIC Mildly aromatic with scents of orange or ginger, and has a pungent, warm bitter flavour. It’s frequently used to flavour and colour curry powders, mustards, butters, and cheeses. CARDAMOM Has a complex herbal flavour with a mix of citrus, mint, and spice. It’s highly fragrant and goes well with both desserts and savoury dishes. It’s the third most expensive spice in the world, since each fruit must be hand-picked. It’s a favourite in India, both for its culinary and medicinal value. 10 010
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CHILLI Brings out the flavour in dishes - from pastas and salads to curries and even chocolate. It’s a great alternative to salt, it eases congestion, boosts immunity, and it has been suggested that it helps stimulate metabolism. SAFFRON Has a very subtle yet powerful flavour and aroma. If you’re going for authenticity when cooking Spanish, Portuguese or Turkish dishes, saffron is key. WHITE PEPPER Has a very specific flavour and tastes hotter than black pepper, but it’s less complex, with fewer flavour notes. Some chefs use white pepper for aesthetic reasons; in light-coloured dishes and sauces so there won’t be any black flecks. Others find white pepper to be a more complex, yet subtle flavour than that of black pepper, which is more obvious. CINNAMON Has a sweet-spicy flavour which enhances the taste of vegetables and fruits. Besides being rich in flavour and aroma, its healthy benefits cannot be underestimated. In Chinese medicine, cinnamon has been used to treat a variety of ailments. nf.
food inspiration
Paprika
Cloves
Cinnamon
Tumeric
White pepper
Cardamom
Saffron
Photography Ivan Ebejer
Chilli
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food inspiration
The Price of Spice...
I
know I’m not the only one who fingers the saffron on the shelf and thinks to myself - do I really need it?
There’s a reason why certain spices are so expensive and why they’re absolutely worth it. The main reason for spices’ high price is the high cost of production. There’s an extremely large amount of individual labour that goes into the pollination, harvesting, and drying of some spices, such as saffron, vanilla beans, and cardamom. Erratic weather is also a contributing factor to the price of spice going up. Some spices are very delicate, to a matter of temperature degree. Entire crops can be destroyed by bad storms, causing prices to jump. When the price is too good to be true, it probably is. ‘Adulteration’ is when additional ingredients are added at some point in order to add weight and reduce costs, making the spice impure. A common instance of adulteration is to lace ground spices with salt to increase the weight and prevent humidity. And to further horrify you: be careful that you’re not eating paper.
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Photography, Ivan Ebejer {@ivanebejer} Words, Lisa Borain
There have been instances of entirely fake saffron that’s made up of rolledup paper and dyed red. On the upside, adulteration doesn’t occur that often and when it does, it’s usually more with ground spices and extracts. More often, the less expensive goods are lower in quality, but not necessarily impure. So when a big jar of cumin costs €5 versus a small tub of it for the same price, the difference isn’t actually adulteration, but quality. That’s also not to say that just because one brand is more expensive it means that it’s higher in quality. Some brands that come from outside the EU just cost more, due to importation and taxes. So how do you determine the quality of a spice? There are different metrics of quality for each spice. For instance, good quality peppercorns will have a somewhat uniform shape, size, and colour. Large, whole bay leaves are higher-quality than small or broken ones. In cinnamon, the lower the volatile oil levels (between .5 and 2%), the lesser the quality - while higher quality has a level of 3% and up. So how to ensure that you’re getting the best spice for your buck if you can’t get close to the source? Trial out a few competing brands. It’s more than likely that if a couple of spices from a brand are higher in standard, the brand is dedicated to delivering high quality spices. nf.
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food inspiration
Fiery Mexican Tortilla Soup Recipe, Photography & Styling
by Home Cook Chantelle Cauchi Serves 4 2 red peppers, diced • 1 large onion, chopped • 1 chilli, chopped • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 tbsp ground cumin • 2 tbsp ground coriander • 1 tbsp smoked paprika • 1 tbsp tomato paste • 1 large can chopped tomatoes • 1 large can kidney beans, rinsed • 500 ml vegetable stock • salt & pepper • 1 bag natural flavour tortilla chips • natural yogurt, to serve
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In a large pot, heat the vegetable oil. Add in the red peppers, onions, chilli, cumin, coriander and paprika and cook for 10-12 minutes, until the vegetables have begun to soften. Depending on how hot you want your soup to be, take out the chilli seeds before putting them in the pot.
Rinse the kidney beans very well, then add them into the pot along with the crushed tomatoes and vegetable stock. Bring to a boil and then turn down the heat to let the soup simmer for at least 20 minutes; the longer you leave it, the more the flavour will intensify.
Once the veggies have softened, add in the tomato paste and salt & pepper, and allow to cook for two more minutes.
Let the soup cool and blend it in a blender or use an immersion blender until creamy. Serve up in a bowl with a dollop of natural yogurt and a big handful of crushed tortilla chips.
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food inspiration
n
food inspiration
Zhug. {pron. /s-kh-oog/}
Move over harissa. There’s a new hot sauce in town. Zhug has actually been around on tables in Isreal for a very long time. Since the Jews of Yemen ascribed medicinal properties to chilli pepper, food accompaniments incorporating hot peppers is common. According to Yemenite Jewish folklore, the Jews of Yemen survived a great famine, subsisting on tomatoes, fenugreek, and chilli peppers. According to another legend, a severe epidemic struck Yemen, but the Jews were spared due to their extensive use of these foods. The chilli pepper plant was believed to help the body withstand illness, improve vitality and aid digestion, as well as prevent and eliminate intestinal parasites. Traditional Yemenite cooks prepare zhug using two stones; a large stone as the work surface and a smaller one for crushing the ingredients. Nowadays, it’s generally made with a mortar and pestle or a food processor. While our recipe calls for serrano chillies, some people sub in jalapeños when needed— although a jalapeños’ spice can differ drastically between season and individual pepper. This recipe calls for cardamom, but a lot of other recipes include fenugreek or cumin instead. We opted for cardamom because of its floral nature, which creates an interesting depth. The rosy, citrusy notes of the coriander then lift and accent the chillies and garlic. The lemon and oil then round it all off, and it can be used in a very wide variety of dishes.
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1 cup parsley 1 cup coriander leaves 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp ground cardamom 1 tbsp kosher salt 20 serrano chiles, stems removed 4 garlic cloves 1 cup canola oil
food inspiration
Serves 2 cups
Method In the base of a food processor, combine all of the ingredients, except for the canola oil. Pulse until a coarse paste forms. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the oil. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
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food inspiration
Recipe on page 052 >>
food inspiration
Peri- Peri Chicken
(Just like Nando's does it.)
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Sweet & Spicy Sticky Asian Chicken Thighs Recipe, Photography & Styling by Home Cook Chantelle Cauchi
Recipe on page 052 >>
Cook Elisabeth Cardona Photography NF www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 021
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Hot & Sour Fish Salad
{Yam Plaa Yaang} by Cook Andrew Chubb
2 whole lampuki or awrat fish (about 50g each), cleaned & gutted 2 stalks lemon grass - white part only, finely sliced 2 shallots, finely sliced 2-3 spring onions, finely sliced 1 cup mint, chopped 2.5cm piece ginger root, finely chopped 5 kaffir lime leaves 5 tbsp lime juice 1 tbsp fish sauce 5 red bird’s eye chillies, finely sliced (de-seed depending on preferred hotness) Method Heat a bbq or grill to medium. If using a grill, line the tray with foil. Cook the fish for about 20 minutes on each side, or until the fish is cooked and light brown. Remove the fish heads and all bones. Break all the fish, including the skin, into bite-sized chunks and place them in a bowl. Add the lemon grass, shallots, spring onion, ginger, lime leaves, mint, lime juice. fish sauce, and chillies to the fish. Mix well, then taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Line a serving plate with lettuce leaves, then spoon the salad over the leaves. Sprinkle with chilli slices. www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food.
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food inspiration
Pad Krapow Pork
"This simple, easy to prepare pork dish is probably one of the most common Thai street food dishes. You can make it with chicken or beef using all the same ingredients and method. In Thailand, it's all about the spiciness of the dish, and is often served with extra chillies and fish sauce as a dressing on the side."� Serves 4 Cook Andrew Chubb 1 kg pork mince 1 tbsp garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp shallots, finely sliced 2 tbsp spring onions, chopped 2 handfuls basil 2 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp oyster sauce 4 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp kecap manis (sweet soy) 6 red bird’s eye chillies (number & seeding
depending on preferred hotness), finely chopped
4 eggs
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Method Combine the chopped garlic, shallots, spring onions and chillies, and fry on a medium-hot heat until fragrant. Add the pork until browned. Add the fish sauce, oyster sauce, soy sauce and kecap manis, and simmer for about 5 minutes. In a separate pan, fry four eggs, leaving the yolks runny. Serve with white rice and the egg on top, allowing the yolk to run into the pork.
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foodfine inspiration food
Waterbiscuit Wonderful A trio of dishes inspired by spice... Chef Brady Dalli, Waterbiscuit, Intercontinental.
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foodfine inspiration food
Shellfish & Cardamom Custard with a Prawn & Tomato Tartare and Prawn Arancini. Recipe on page 056.
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foodfine inspiration food
Hot Curried Jerusalem Artichoke Royal with Chilli & Orange Smoked Artichoke Cremux. Recipe on page 054.
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foodfine inspiration food
Cayenne Pepper, Thyme and Garlic Slow-cooked Lamb Saddle. Recipe on page 058.
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food inspiration
Ode to the Pomegranate 034 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
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‘Inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes in his fabulous cook book Plenty, these “rustically elegant” starters or sides bring out the best balance of spicy, sweet, sour, and salty.’ >> Cook Elisabeth Cardona Photography Lisa Borain www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 035
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food inspiration
Baked Aubergine with Buttermilk Sauce
{Recipe on page 053} >> www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 037
food inspiration
Burnt Aubergine &
Pomegranate Salad
Serves 2-4 1 large aubergine 70g tahini paste 60ml water 2 tsp pomegranate molasses (how to make it below) 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 garlic clove, crushed 3 tbsp parsley, chopped ½ cucumber, finely chopped in quarters (optional) 90g cherry tomatoes, quartered (optional) ½ large pomegranate seeds drizzle olive oil for garnish sea salt & freshly ground black pepper Pomegranate molasses 4 cups pomegranate juice ½ cup sugar 2 tbsp lemon juice Aubergine method Place the aubergines underneath a hot grill until the skin is blackened and the flesh has gone soft, alternating sides every five minutes or so. Make sure you poke a few holes in the skin before beginning, as there is the possibility of the aubergine exploding in the oven from the pressure. When cool enough to handle, scoop out 038 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
the cooked flesh into a colander and leave to drain for at least 30 minutes. Chop the flesh roughly and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the tahini, water, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic, parsley and some salt and pepper. Mix well with a whisk, tasting and seasoning as you go, adding more of the above ingredients as desired. If you wish to add a freshness to the salad, add them into the mix at this stage. Serve in a shallow dish, scatter the pomegranate seeds on top and add a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with raw veggies, pitta bread, or as a side dish to fish or lamb. Pomegranate molasses method In a large, wide uncovered saucepan, heat the pomegranate juice, sugar, and lemon juice on medium high until the sugar has dissolved and the juice simmers. Reduce the heat just enough to maintain a simmer. Simmer for about an hour, or until there’s a syrupy consistency and it has reduced to approximately 1 cup. Pour out into a jar and let cool.
food inspiration
“Make sure you poke a few holes in the skin before beginning, as there is the possibility of the aubergine exploding in the oven from the pressure.�
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sweet
Pomegranate & Lemon Infused Water {This is incredibly good for you, it tastes amazing, and it's not hard to make...}
Take a wide-bladed knife and gently crush a small handful of pomegranate seeds to release their juices. Add them and 2 lemon slices to water, and chill in the fridge for 4 hours. Strain before serving and add a little honey if desired.
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food inspiration sweet
Greek yoghurt + apples, kiwi & pomegranates, sprinkled with hemp and Chai-Spiced Pancakes Mexican poppy seeds.with Chocolate Drizzle {recipe on page ???}
Photography, Ivan Ebejer {@ivanebejer} www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 043
sweet
Mess
Pomegranate
Serves 2 Cook Andrew Chubb
100g dark chocolate, 60 or 70% cocoa ½ cup full cream 400ml pomegranate juice ½ cup sugar (to taste) 3 gelatin leaves 10 ladyfinger biscuits 50ml espresso coffee 50ml Madeira wine 500ml whipped cream handful pomegranate seeds for garnish Method
For the pomegranate jelly, add the sugar and pomegranate juice in a pot and warm over medium heat for approximately five minutes, or until the sugar has dissolved. Soak the gelatin leaves in a small bowl of cold water for approximately 5-10 minutes. When the leaves are soft, squeeze them out and add them to the 044 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com 44
pomegranate and sugar mixture. Mix the gelatin in well, then pour into a container and refrigerate for about 2 hours to set. For the chocolate ganache, shave the chocolate very finely with a sharp knife. Warm the cream in a sauce pan over a low heat, being sure not to bring it to a boil. When the cream is too hot to hold your finger in for more than 2 or 3 seconds, take off the heat and add the shaved chocolate. Mix in well until you’ve got a consistent, thick chocolate and cream mixture. Allow to cool until it’s just runny. Mix the coffee and Madeira together and then soak the ladyfingers in the mixture until they’ve absorbed the liquid. Whip cold cream and construct by layering or piping all the ingredients into a jar or bowl. nf.
{chocolate ganache}
sweet
{pomegranate seeds}
{whipped cream}
{ladyfinger biscuits soaked in Madeira and espresso}
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food inspiration
SPICY S Here Chai-Spiced Pancakes with Mexican Chocolate Drizzle Home Cook Chantelle Cauchi Photography & Styling: Chantelle Cauchi RECIPE ON PAGE 59.
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SWEETS >> 47 www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 047
sweet
Spiced Rose Lassi
"The spiced rose lassi from India is the epitome of fusing floral with spice, with its rose and cardamom marriage. This is a sweet version of the chilled yogurt drink, but it's still healthy and refreshing; and works for breakfast or as dessert."
Serves 2 1½ cups yoghurt ¼ cup water 3 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons rose water, plus more to taste ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ground cinnamon rose petals, for garnish Method Place the yoghurt, water, sugar, rose water, and spices in the jar of a blender. Blend on high speed until smooth and frothy. Serve cold, garnished with rose petals.
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Ginger + Rose Cupcakes Cook Elisabeth Cardona Serves 24 The cupcakes ¾ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup self-raising flour 1 tbsp ground ginger ½ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt ½ cup unsalted butter, (room temperature) 1 ¼ cups castor sugar 3 large eggs ¾ cup milk 2 tbs crystallised ginger, chopped (recipe below) Rose icing ½ cup milk 3 cups confectioners sugar 2 ½ tsp rose water pink food colouring small rose buds or petals for decoration Crystallised ginger 1 ½ cups peeled and thinly sliced fresh ginger castor sugar
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Sift together the flours, ground ginger, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. With a mixer, cream the butter and granulated sugar until pale, for about 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time until incorporated. Beat in the flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the milk, and beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the crystallised ginger until distributed. Divide the batter among the cupcake holders, filling halfway. Bake until golden and set, for about 20 minutes. Transfer the tray to a cooling rack for 15 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the tray and let them cool down completely. If storing, place in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Icing method Make the icing a few hours before serving because it cracks if it’s out for too long. Whisk the milk and confectioners sugar until smooth, then add the rose water. Add a small drop of food colouring for a pale pink colour, and stir.
Immediately pour the icing on the cupcakes (about 1 tbsp each) just until flush with the top of the cupcake holder. Let it set before decorating with rose buds or petals.
sweet
Cupcake method Preheat the oven to 175°C. Line a standard or muffin baking tray with cupcake holders.
Crystallised ginger method Place the thinly sliced ginger in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add enough water to cover by 3cm. Partially cover the saucepan and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat - until the ginger is almost cooked through, but still slightly al dente (for approximately 1 hour). When ready, drain and dry. Weigh the cooked ginger and return it to the saucepan with an equal amount of sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of water and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat, stirring, until the ginger becomes translucent (approximately 20 minutes). Reduce the heat and continue cooking and stirring until the ginger is crystallised and begins to clump in the middle of the pan. On a large baking sheet, separate the crystallised ginger pieces and allow them to dry. Transfer to a jar and store in a cool place for 3 to 6 months. They can be used in cupcakes and other desserts, but they’re also a helpful natural antidote for queasiness. www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food.
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recipes
recipes. PERI-PERI CHICKEN (JUST LIKE AT NANDO’S) (PAGE 018 )
SWEET & SPICY STICKY ASIAN CHICKEN THIGHS (PAGE 020 )
Cook Elisabeth Cardona Serves 2
Cook Chantelle Cauchi Serves 2
4 skinless chicken thighs (bones in or out, at your preference) 1 tbsp olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 2 tbsp white vinegar 4 bird’s eye chillies or regular red chillies (depending on desired heat) 1 red bell pepper, chopped 4 cloves of garlic, minced 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp oregano 1 tsp sea salt ½ tsp black pepper
2 large chicken thighs, skin on 3 tbsp honey 3 tbsp dark soy sauce 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tbsp chilli flakes 2 garlic cloves, minced salt, to taste 1 tsp ginger, grated 1 tbsp Sriracha ⅔ cups rice + 1⅓ cups water 1 cup sugar snap peas handful garlic sprouts, to garnish
Method Add all of the ingredients except for the chicken in a blender and blend until smooth. Marinate the chicken in the blended sauce for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the chicken in a baking dish with some of the marinade, but leave some on the side for extra sauce when serving. Bake covered for 10 to 15 minutes, baste the chicken with the marinade, and flip. Cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover and bake under the grill until the chicken is browned. Serve with fresh lemons, the set aside peri-peri sauce, and a fresh tossed salad. 052 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
Method Preheat the oven to 200°C and line a baking dish with parchment paper. In a bowl, mix the honey, soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, chilli, garlic, ginger and Sriracha to combine. Season the chicken thighs with salt, place skin-side down into the baking dish, and pour the glaze over. Cook for 20 minutes, then turn the thighs over, baste with sauce, and continue cooking for another 30 minutes, until cooked through. While the chicken is cooking, add the rice and water to a pot, season with salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover,
Serve the chicken over steamed rice and greens, and garnish with garlic sprouts.
BAKED AUBERGINE WITH BUTTERMILK SAUCE (PAGE 036) Cook Elisabeth Cardona Serves 4 2 large aubergines 80ml olive oil 1½ tsp lemon thyme leaves + a few whole sprigs for garnish 1 pomegranate 1 tsp herb mixture (ingredients & instructions below) sea salt & black pepper Buttermilk sauce 140ml buttermilk (or substitute as per below) 100g Greek yoghurt 1½ tsp olive oil, plus a trickle to garnish 1 garlic clove, crushed pinch of salt Herb mixture 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped 1 tbsp grated lemon rind 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp sesame seeds 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Buttermilk substitute As buttermilk is not readily available in Malta, there are a few substitutes that will work for this recipe. One option is to place a tablespoon of white vinegar or lemon juice in a liquid measuring cup and then add enough milk to bring the liquid up to the one-cup line. Let the mixture stand for 5-10 minutes, so the milk has a chance to thicken and curdle. Alternatively, you can add 1¾ teaspoon of cream of tartar to a cup of milk, and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. This will thicken and curdle just like the substitute made with vinegar or lemon juice. The last option is to mix ¾ cup yogurt and ¼ cup water together.
recipes
and cook for 20 minutes, until all the water has been absorbed. When the rice is done, add the sugar snap peas to the same pot, close and allow to steam for 5 minutes.
Method Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways so that the stalk is visible. Make diamond shaped incisions with a pairing knife, being careful not to cut through the skin. Place the aubergine halves, cut-side up, on a baking parchment paper lined baking tray. Brush them with olive oil, ensuring that they are fully covered and have absorbed the oil. Sprinkle with the lemon thyme leaves and some salt and pepper. Roast for about 40 minutes, until flesh is browned and soft. Remove from the oven and allow to cool down completely. For the buttermilk sauce, whisk all the ingredients together and then keep cold until needed. To serve, spoon the buttermilk sauce over the aubergine halves without covering the stalks. Sprinkle the herb mixture and pomegranate seeds on top, and garnish with lemon thyme. Finalise with a drizzle of olive oil. Herb mixture method Place all the ingredients in a spice grinder and mix until well ground. Store in a cool, dark place for up to six months. >> www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 053
recipes
HOT CURRIED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE ROYAL WITH CHILLI & ORANGE SMOKED ARTICHOKE CREMUX (PAGE 030 ) Chef Brady Dalli, Waterbiscuit, Executive Sous Chef, Intercontinental Malta Hot curried Jerusalem artichoke purée 250g Jerusalem artichokes 1 medium size onion, chopped 4 springs thyme 2 red chilies zest & jus of 1 orange 450 ml vegetable stock 50g butter salt to taste Hot curried Jerusalem artichoke royal 200g hot curried Jerusalem artichoke purée 150 ml cream 80g parmesan cheese
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5 eggs
Chilli & orange smoked artichoke cremux 220g chilli orange & artichoke purée 150g butter 30g sugar 200g eggs 2 gelatin sheets, softened in cold water Pickled vegetables 2½ cups distilled white vinegar 3 cups water ¾ cup sugar 5 tbsp kosher salt 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds ½ tsp dried hot red-pepper flakes different shapes & sizes of celeriac, sweed,
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pumpkin Methods
will melt.
Hot curried Jerusalem artichoke purée method In a medium size pot on medium heat, sauté the Jerusalem artichokes, chilies, onions, and thyme for 2 minutes. Add the butter, orange zest and jus, and cook for 1 minute. Add the vegetable stock and bring to the boil, then let simmer for 15 minutes or until the artichokes are soft. Transfer the liquid in a separate bowl and the artichokes in a blender. Begin to blend the artichokes and add water until smooth. Season to taste.
Place the mix in the blender and blend the cold butter with it. Pass it through a fine sleeve, then transfer to a container and rest in the fridge.
Hot curried Jerusalem artichoke royal method In a mixing bowl over a pot with boiling water, add the cream and cheese. When the cheese is melted, add the purée. In a small mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and blend all together. Then cook in an oven at 100°C for 30 minutes, until the royal is set. When it’s ready, transfer it to the fridge and allow to cool down. Chilli and orange smoked artichoke cremux method Cook the eggs and sugar over a pot with hot water, then add the purée and the gelatin so it
Pickled vegetables method Bring the pickling-liquid ingredients (except for vegetables) to a boil in a 3-quart nonreactive saucepan over moderate heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Transfer to a 3-litre non-reactive bowl and cool about 30 minutes. Bring about 6 litres of unsalted water to a boil in a pot. Have a large bowl of ice and cold water ready. Add the celeriac to the pot and boil until crisp-tender - for about 4 minutes and then transfer with a slotted spoon to the ice bath to stop cooking. Cook the remaining vegetables separately in the same manner, allowing 4 minutes each for the sweed and pumpkin. Drain the vegetables in a colander and spread out on 2 large kitchen towels to dry. Place in the cooled pickling liquid and keep covered and chilled for up to 1 week. Garnish with the pickled vegetables, chives, flowers, frisse lettuce and roasted shallot petals. >> www.nudefoodmalta.com nude food. 055
recipes
1 tbsp olive oil lemon zest and juice 1 tsp mirin (Japanese rice wine) salt Spicy tomato coulis 2 large tomatoes, halved 1 red bell pepper, seeded & diced 1 cup red onion, chopped ¼ cup sherry wine vinegar 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, minced 1 fresh red chilli 1 cup tomato juice
SHELLFISH & CARDAMOM CUSTARD WITH A PRAWN & TOMATO TARTARE AND PRAWN ARANCINI (PAGE 028 ) Chef Brady Dalli, Waterbiscuit, Executive Sous Chef, Intercontinental Malta Stock 4-6 cups shellfish shells, from shrimp, lobster, and/or crab ½ cup dry white wine 20g cardamom pods 1 large onion, sliced or chopped 1 carrot, roughly sliced or chopped 1 celery stalk, roughly sliced or chopped 2 sprigs thyme several sprigs parsley 1 bay leaf 10-15 whole peppercorns 2 tsp salt Custard 200ml shell fish stock 200ml fresh cream 3 gelatin leaves (softened in cold water) 4 eggs 2 tsp sherry Prawn and tomato tartare 2 fresh red prawns, chopped half tomato, seeded chopped 1 tbsp dill / parsley / chives, all chopped 056 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
Prawn arancini ½ onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 300g arborio risotto rice 200 ml dry white wine 1 litre chicken stock, kept at a simmer 150g red prawn meat, finely chopped grated zest of 1 lemon ½ cup (40g) freshly grated parmesan 1 tbs flat-leaf parsley, chopped ½ cup (75g) plain flour 3 eggs, beaten 2 cups (200g) packaged breadcrumbs canola oil (for deep-frying) METHODS Stock method Break the thick shells (of lobster or crab) into smaller pieces by placing them in a sealed, thick plastic bag and either rolling with a rolling pin or hitting with a meat hammer to crush. To roast the shells is optional and can be skipped, but it greatly enhances the flavour. To roast, place the shells in a large roasting pan and roast at 200°C for 10 minutes. Place the shells in a large stock pot and add enough water to cover them with 2.5cm of water. Heat the water on high. As soon as you see that little bubbles are starting to surface, reduce the heat to medium.
As the bubbles rise, a film of foam will develop on the surface. Use a large metal spoon to skim away this foam. Let the shells cook like this for about an hour; skim the foam every few minutes. The foam comes from shells releasing impurities as their temperature increases. Once the stock has stopped releasing foam, add the wine, onions, carrots, celery, tomato paste, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns. Bring to a low simmer and reduce the heat so that the stock continues to barely simmer, but not boil, for 30 minutes. If more foam comes to the surface, skim it off. Add salt and remove from heat.pan Custard method Set round silicone molds in a large baking pan at least 5cm deep. In a bowl, combine the cream, eggs, sherry, shellfish stock, and beat lightly just to blend. Pour the mixture into the silicone molds. Set the pan on the centre rack of a 160°C oven. Pour boiling water onto the pan around the cups to the level of custard. Bake for about 25-35 minutes, or until the custard jiggles only slightly when gently shaken. Lift the silicone pan and then let stand for at least 10 minutes. If made ahead, let cool, then cover and chill up to a day. Prawn & tomato tartare method In a medium sized mixing bowl mix all of the ingredients together. Place them in a
container and store them in the fridge. Spicy tomato coulis method Roast the tomatoes, red pepper, onion, garlic and chilli for 20 minutes in an oven at 180°C. Purée the roasted items with 1 cup of tomato juice in a blender until smooth. Pour the coulis into a coarse strainer set over a medium bowl. Press on solids to extract as much soup as possible. Add the olive oil ], sherry wine vinegar, and salt. Chill for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Serve cold.
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Do not let the water boil! You want to maintain the temperature at just at the edge of a simmer (around 80°C), where the bubbles just occasionally come up to the surface. Do not stir the shells, as stirring will muddy up the stock.
Prawn arancini method Heat the olive oil and 20g butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until soft but not coloured. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat the grains, then add wine and allow to bubble for 1-2 minutes until almost evaporated. Add the stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring and making sure each is absorbed before adding the next, until the rice is al dente. This will take about 20 minutes. Stir in the prawn meat, zest, cheese, parsley and remaining butter. Season. Spread on a tray and allow to cool, then chill for 30 minutes. Place the flour, egg and crumbs in separate bowls. Roll 2 heaped teaspoons of risotto into a bite-sized ball. Roll first in the flour, then the egg, then coat in the crumbs. Chill for at least 1 hour until firm. (You can do this up to 24 hours ahead.) Half-fill a deep-fryer or large pan with canola oil and heat to 180°C. Fry the arancini for 2-3 minutes until golden. Drain on paper towel. To garnish, add flowers, chervil, heirloom tomatoes, burned cucumber and ribbons. >>
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METHODS recipes
Marinade method In a mixing bowl, mix all the ingredients with the lamb. Roll the meat tight with cling film and transfer into a container. Leave it in the fridge overnight.
CAYENNE PEPPER, THYME AND GARLIC SLOW-COOKED LAMB SADDLE (PAGE 033 ) Chef Brady Dalli, Waterbiscuit, Executive Sous Chef, Intercontinental Malta Marinade 1 piece lamb saddle salt 4 sprigs thyme 2 cloves garlic 30ml olive oil 10g cayenne pepper Warm lamb terrine 350g lamb mince 150ml chicken stock 1 small onion, chopped 40g carrots, diced 20g leeks, chopped 2 tsp tomato paste 20g celery, diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 80ml port wine 80ml red wine 1 tsp parsley and chives, chopped Potato beniets ½ cup milk 2 tbsp butter 2½ tsp active dry yeast ¼ cup water, room temperature 1 cup Idaho Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cooked, riced 1 egg 3½ cups flour 058 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
To cook, in a medium sized pan seal the lamb all round, and cook it in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes until the core temperature is 54°C, and then take the meat out and put it on a resting tray for 5 minutes. Warm lamb terrine method In a large pan seal the lamb mince very well. Add the onion, carrots, leeks, celery, and garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and continue to cook for 2 minutes. Add the port wine and red wine, and reduce by 3 quarters, then add the chicken stock and reduce again by 3 quarters. When the process is ready, put the mix in a square mold layered with cling film. Cover the top part with cling film and press it with a tin. Transfer it to the fridge with the tin on top overnight so it will set. Potato beniets method Heat the sugar, milk and butter in a saucepan until the butter melts, then remove from the heat and reserve. In a mixing bowl, combine the yeast and water and rest for 5 minutes to reactivate yeast. Add the yeast mixture to the butter mixture and stir until combined. Beat the potato purée and the egg in bowl of a standing mixer with a paddle attachment until just combined, then add the butter mixture and beat until well combined. Add the flour and beat until combined, then remove to a bowl and ferment in a warm, dry place until doubled in size. Roll the dough into small round balls. Fry in 175°C oil, flipping once, until light golden brown on both sides. Garnish with sautéd wild mushrooms, broad beans, and caramelised parsnips.
recipes
½ tsp cloves 1 ⅓ cups milk 3 tbsp butter, melted + more for cooking 3 tbsp honey blueberries, to top Mexican chocolate sauce 100g good quality chocolate, chopped (I used Lindt) 4 tbsp single cream ½ tbsp chilli ¼ tbsp cinnamon ¼ tsp sea salt Method In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Make a well in the middle of the dry mixture and pour in your wet ingredients. Whisk until just combined, and set aside.
CHAI-SPICED PANCAKES WITH MEXICAN CHOCOLATE DRIZZLE (PAGE 046) Cook Chantelle Cauchi Photography & Styling Chantelle Cauchi Pancakes 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¼ tsp salt 1½ tbsp baking powder ½ tbsp cinnamon ½ tsp ginger ¼ tsp cardamom
Add a bit of butter to a medium skillet and heat on medium-low heat. Add ¼ cup batter per pancake into the skillet. When the batter begins to form bubbles, about 1-2 minutes, flip and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Between every batch, remember to add a bit of butter to the pan. Repeat until all the batter is used. For the sauce, add cream to a small pot and heat gently until it begins to simmer. Add in the chocolate and stir until just melted. Add the chilli, cinnamon and sea salt. Serve the pancakes with a generous handful of blueberries and chocolate sauce. nf.
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wine
I MONTALCINO
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Lisa Borain visits the quaint and beautiful Montalcino hill town and commune in Tuscany, famous for its steep history and Brunello di Montalcino wine. >>
Castello di Banfi: There are winetasting and winery tours available throughout the day, but absolutely not to be missed is the winery’s La Taverna Restaurant.
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Above, During the late middle ages Montalcino was an independent commune with considerable importance, owing to its location on the old Via Francigena (the main road between France and Rome), but increasingly Montalcino came under the sway of the larger and more aggressive city of Siena. Right, Friday night in the bars of the village: antipasti for all. This particular bar called Bar Belvedere on Via Giacomo Matteotti (left) became our regular for 3 nights. >> 062 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
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“...the streets are alive with fun. Everyone is drinking and eating whenever they get the chance. There’s this amazing innate pride of local food and wine, even more so than other places in Italy I have visited...�
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wine
Montalcino is full of wineries and restaurants which offer farm to table food. Banfi di Castello is one of my favourites and not to be missed is La Taverna Restaurant (right), a classical Tuscan restaurant in the shade of the medieval castle of Poggio alleMura, beneath the vaulted arches of the former barrel cellars of the castle where Brunello once rested in large oak casks. Open for lunch, the atmosphere is superb with a menu which offers the traditional dishes of Montalcino and Tuscany, made with fresh and authentic local ingredients. After a wine tasting and an unforgettable lunch, it’s fun to take a look around the Medieval Poggio alle Mura Castle (bottom left). The castle has been desired and contested over the centuries for its strategic position between Siena and the Tuscan seaside (Maremma) and the fertile soils that surround it. Now it’s home to a stunning glass collection, as well as antique wine-making and olive oilpressing tools. >> 064 nude food. www.nudefoodmalta.com
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We asked a few Montalcino locals for their recommendations of wineries to visit, and the below is what they came back with: Tenuta Le Potazzine Podere Le Ripi Mastrojanni Ciacci Piccolomini Castiglion del Bosco Azienda Agricola Casanova di Neri
We had the pleasure of visiting Podere Le Ripi, which is a fascinating biodynamic vineyard owned by Francesco Illy (of Illy coffee, who lives above the winery itself). The winery is home to two small experimental vineyards with the most densely planted vines in the world. An innovative wine cellar like none other, the Cantina Aurea (The Golden Cellar) was designed by Francesco’s son, Ernesto Illy. Built according to the proportions of the Golden Section, the cellar’s internal path brings visitors gently down the sloped hillside inside which it is built, passing all production stages of the wines stored within. It gently spirals down, showcasing barrels and boxes upon descent at different stages until it finally reaches the ageing Brunello in oak casks, resting in a circular hall where the wine listens to classical music and the atmosphere feels mystical. nf.
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