FORMA
ISSUE 1 THE ART, FASHION AND CULTURE MAGAZINE, DEDICATED TO YOU
CONTENTS
DANIEL ARSHAM - LIFE N’ ART DANIELA MONTEIRO - BIOGRAPHY 2020 TREND - “X-RAY VISION” IMPACT ON THE FASHION WORLD
Daniel Arsham for Square Space
DANIEL ARSHAM
LIFE N’ ART
LIFE For those who haven’t heard about the artist behind the “Bronze Eroded Basketball”, the clear New York Yankees cap named “Crystal Relic 001” or even those eroded sculptures embellished with crystals like the “Blue Calcite Eroded Venus of Milo”, his name is Daniel Arsham. Based in New York and raised in Miami, Arsham has been marking his position as a futuristic artist with an extensive knowledge on the conceptualization of materials, shapes and techniques, reinventing everyday objects into pieces of art, worth of exhibitions. The artist, that in 1992 nearly died when the hurricane Andrew ripped through his family home in Miami, has seen the world with different eyes, questioning “what is inside the walls?”. The fact is, he has taught us a lot about what is inside the object he recreates in his limited colour palette, where the white takes over our attention whenever we are confronted
with his projects. But none of that is a coincidence, the truth is that Daniel Arsham is colour-blind. He can only see 20 percent of the world’s colour but that hasn’t stopped him, and thanks to his special glasses he is able to look behind that. Let’s go back in the years and talk about his first steps in 2007, when at the age of 25, 2 years later after his graduation in the art school of Cooper Union, he was asked to design his first set for Merce Cunningham’ productions. In that same year, along with his architect friend Alex Mustonen, they founded a collaborative design practice established to investigate the boundaries between artistic disciplines – Snarkitecture where the mind of a contemporary artist and an architect are combined to “make architecture perform the unexpected”.
On the left: Daniel Arsham on Instagram- “1993 self portrait with my mother. Shot on my Pentax k100”
BLUE CALCITE ERODED VENUS OF MILO
Both images: “Blue Calcite Eroded Venus of Milo” 2019 by Daniel Arsham Images by Daniel Arsham and Perrotin
Both images: “Bronze Eroded Basketball” (2019) by Daniel Arsham Images by Daniel Arsham
BRONZE ERODED BASKETBALL
CRYSTAL RELIC 001
Both images: “Crystal Relic 001” (2019) by Daniel Arsham Images by Daniel Arsham
Daniel Arsham, for Departures, 2017
ART Now travelling in time, where the future and the past create a blurred connection, where the viewer is uncertain about the time itself. Are we in the future with a past presence? Are we in the past and travelling trough the future?
“Blue Calcite Eroded Venus of Milo” (2019) is the perfect example of that. The art piece created from the mold provided by the Musée du Louvre archive, is the centre stage between the past and the future – The Present. The original piece, created between 130 and 100 BC that inspired many artists since then, was the source behind Daniel Arsham’s vision. Her broken arms and part of her head, are now replaced by blue calcite crystal, a stone known for creating and stimulating creative energies. Like this one, there are many other historical sculptures, recreated through Daniel Arsham perspective, where the cracks filled with crystals, take over the history and add a new chapter to these sculptures. The truth is, art is all about creating and recreating, giving a new life to existing objects and transforming the way these objects are perceived to the audience, without taking its identity, but adding a new one. That is exactly was Arsham does/is. The artist, inspired by the global reach of basketball, picked a basket ball as a model, and transformed it into a hand finished sculpture, where the outside is burned, generating a colourful light reflection in the metal. The “Bronze Eroded Basketball” was produced in a 99 limited quantity, the package includes a display case designed to catch light in contrasting to the solidity of the bronze.
“Crystal Relic 001” is another artwork made to recreate the New York Yankees cap. It is a scale replica, made of cast resin, inspired by the 18th century archaeological objects made of crystal. The Cap has a five inches in height with a diameter of eight inches, weighting five pounds. Daniel Arsham said that this work took two years to develop in to what it is now, which makes his history with research, exploration and experimentation quite extensive. The artist that in 2017 collaborated with Adidas for the first time, conceived a pair of trainers aiming to make them look chipped away from an archaeological dig. The all white pair feature frayed sections, when exposed to UV light it reveals his hidden message saying “The past is present”. And following the “Collab” theme it is impossible to not mention the ERODING PORSCHE 911. It is a completely drivable car, combining the Porsche mechanism with the Arsham’s perspective trough his crystal erosion technique that adds a rough finish on the exterior of this classic car.
CRYSTAL ERODED 911
ADIDAS ORIGINALS NEW YORK
Left side: Both images by James Law Right side: Both images by Adidas
Both images by Dior Mag for Dior Spring 2020
DANIEL ARSHAM X DIOR For the Summer 2020 men’s collection, Kim Jones decided to call Daniel Arsham to collaborate with him. Kim Jones connected with Arsham’s concept of looking at the present with the future and the past in mind. The designer/creative director of the fashion house looked at the Dior exhibition and thought about what could and would be there in fifthly years time. By using the logo as a starting point, Daniel built a 2.5 meters version of his signature – eroded crystal - into the Dior letters. The idea of the work falling apart is balance with the sense of growth that the crystals give, a new life emerging inside those “broken” structures. The catwalk was grounded by pink sand, which evokes the artwork that Arsham previously created - The Japanese Garden – with raked pink sand. Mixing Daniel Arsham and Kim Jones world, the two brought new textures and fabric as well as patterns and graphics. A new era emerged for both of these men’s world, where the art knows no boundaries and the collaboration of their creative minds screams innovation. The connection between the past/future and the destruction/growth is transmitted through his artworks.
The idea of a (confusing) harmony where those balanced concepts are an unique piece, creating a thin line between what it is naturally destroyed and human destroyed. Are we going to look at this pieces in fifty years time? The irony is, a piece that gives the impression of being destroyed over the years, as a past figure, has also the intention of being present in the future so… is the future now? The word I found to better describe this artist mind is: Intemporal. The artist that uses photography as a reference for his extensive portfolio, admitted that he wants to create work that speaks to everyone and not just for a limited audience. Daniel Arsham has the idea that his work speaks in different ways for everybody, even if all those people have different interpretations. As an artist, Daniel has been proving that his work will continue to evolve and emerge to all the different industries that Art cover, showing is will to transit into periods of time with his eclectic mindset.
Both images by Dior Mag for Dior Spring 2020
Image by Daniela Monteiro on Instagram
DANIELA MONTEIRO
BIOGRAPHY
Left side: Mac Miller by Daniela Monteiro Right side: Schoolboy Q by Daniela Monteiro
Left side: Tyler, the Creator, Asap Ferg and Asap Rocky by Daniela Monteiro Right side: Lil Boat by Daniela Monteiro
DANIELA MONTEIRO Daniela Monteiro is a Portuguese photographer based in London, born in 1996. Dani specializes in photography and videography. She focus her career doing projects around the world, meeting all kind of artists, collaborating with many musicians, brands and even known youtubers. She dedicates her life to building a large network with talented faces, and the fact that she is only 24 years old says a lot about her promising future as a photographer and videographer. With more than 20k followers on Instagram (@danikm), Daniela has revealed for the past years her evolution in the industry, showing her talent and ambition to be recognized as a promisor artist.
Left side: Daniela Monteiro on Instagram Right side: Slow Thai by Daniela Monteiro
The published content, varies from live music events to portraits, where she captures a range of different emotions, feelings, attitudes and identities trough the different personalities shot by her lenses. The “live music� category on her portfolio is based on her moments standing on the front row of a busy festival, on the press side. She has done multiple shots dedicated to musicians (I dare to say that it his her favourite category). The moments where the artists are performing on stage are the main focus of her camera. For a photographer it is truly difficult to catch the perfect moment around a busy audience, when the model is not standing still for the camera but doing a live show. That is where Daniela proves her capacity as a photographer.
Left side: Evan Mock by Daniela Monteiro Right side: P-Rallel by Daniela Monteiro
DANIELA X FENDI In May of 2019, Daniela presented a campaign directed and shoot by her. The video took place in Rome, Italy with the famous professional bicycle athlete – Nigel Sylvester, wearing the Fall/Winter 2019 Fendi collection. In the video, the model is riding his bike covered with the Fendi print, around the Fendi headquarters – Palazzo Della Civiltà Italiana, doing tricks while the camera follows him with an analogue effect, playing with the angles and different perspectives of the same image. She even overlaps some videos when doing the transactions. The campaign was made for the platform - F is for … Fendi, a platform (from Fendi) that exists to create honest content and experiences. The ones who use it, are in charge of how they choose to convey the Fendi DNA. The idea is to reach new audiences by letting new talents show their potential in creation of content. It is a space where everyone has a chance to be part of this big fashion house, by showing to the world their talents. Daniela’s journey to show her potential to the world is far from being completed and we still got a lot to learn from creative minds like her, that are constanlty seeking to mark a relvant position in the industry. Don’t forget this name.
Both sides: Nigel Sylvester- all photos by Daniela Monteiro
Left side: Photo by Daniela Monteiro Right side: Joey Badass by Daniela Monteiro
2020
TREND
X-RAY
VISION
TRANSFORM As we approach times where transformation is crucial for our survival, we begin to adapt ourselves to what is next – The future. The challenge is now a continuous search for a change where we look at our opposite sides, trying to reach the balance. A trend that is now a watchword – TRANSFORM The Transform forecasted for the year 20/21 settles its characteristics in sustainable matters, where the concept adapts to the situations. Silhouettes are assuming new, eclectic forms. In the transformable world there are two opposites in which the trend moves. In the dark side, clothing provides us protective armour - in details like the utility wear – as an armour for a dystopian future. On the reversed side, the luminous takes place, we start to see a layered clarity and translucent patterns.
Left side: Image by Laura Berson Right side: Image by AMBUSH for FW 2019 Collection
X-RAY VISION As a necessity of representing the transform trend, various approaches emerge and we start to look at a world with the X RAY VISION. “X-Ray Vision” chooses an undertone palette, exploring minimalistic silhouettes and clear fabrics like sheer or organza, where the similarity between the name and the garments is achieved - a see thought perspective on the inside of things. But let’s not confuse ourselves by allowing its title to guide us to a literal approach on the apparel. In fact, the “X-Ray vision” opts to address clothes in a visual-tech and a sportswear context, with lightweight silhouettes and clean aesthetic that embraces the transparency.
X-RAY VISION ON BRANDS Over the multiple fashion events that define the key elements of the trends, some brands used the “X-Ray Vision” to explore and present the new generation of fashion. In collaboration with the artist that shaped the trend, Daniel Arsham and Dior worked together for the spring 2020 collection in the menswear runway. As we already know the artist perspective on this show, let’s look at the way that Kim Jones fuse his own vision with the X-ray visual. The creative director designed inspired pieces that sends us to an X-ray visual through the use of transparent fabrics, using a blue based palette, in which the the textiles assume a different roll consonant the piece. Some of them are embellished and some of them are simply created. One way or another, futuristic scenes take place and we are left with clothes that represent a modern perspective of the times we live in. In another world, the designer Feng Cheng Wang decided to respond to the X-ray Vision by using this iridescent fabric that reflects the colour blue depending on the
body movement. The designer that had the intention of representing human emotions through the colour, decided to use blue as a sad feeling that progressively, in the runway, would be transformed in green or pink. Again playing with the two opposites that combine and describe the balance achieved. Astrid Andersen, the London-based brand that produces premium casualwear in a sport inspired aesthetic, built these sets including a hoodie and a cargo pants with organza. The pieces originally made by hand, give a clearer look to a gradient palette that represents the blending between the utility wear with the X-ray vision look. The oversized silhouette offers a relaxed fit, embracing the transparency that characterize this trend. To present the Maison Mariella spring 2020 collection, the creative director John Galliano approached the theme by creating a sheer overcoat with a translucid blue palette that in the reflection of the light generates unique look facing the future. In here, the layered sheer gives a more impactful look to the blue and the audience is left with an impactful piece.
DIOR SPRING 2020
FENG CHEN WANG SPRING 2020
ASTRID ANDERSEN SPRING 2020
MAISON MARGIELA SPRING 2020
X-RAY VISION ON
SNKEAKERS
DIOR B23
The model B23, has been a signature for the fashion house Dior with multiple approaches to this style and material. The translucid fabric offers a reference to the x-ray Vision, thanks to the transparency that can be obtained through this materials.
The shoe can be styled and layered with socks, giving a different alternative to the colour and the look. This specific edition, because it is part of a design with the artist Daniel Arsham, has the letter ”D” eroded.
CONVERSE CHUCK TAYLOR
The Converse Chuck Taylor are part of the iconic collaboration named “The ten” between Nike x Off White, where Virgil Abloh altered 3% of nine Nike shoes, giving them a new look trough the designer perspective and finish the collection with the iconic pair of Converse.
The shoe is made 100% of canvas with a rubber sole with a see-trough look. Referring the trend X-ray by calling the layered characteristic, where the inside is what matters.
LV408
Again with the designer, considered one of the most influential faces of the industry and the creative director of the French house – Louis Vuitton - Virgil Abloh embraced the classic LV408 model by giving it a translucid look with a gel injected soul made with
rubber. The amount of detail in this, shows an opposite for its transparent look that gives it a minimalistic aesthetic, where the “white” can be joint with different colour options.
AIR FORCE 1
With a more literal approach to the theme, Nike designed this Air Force 1 low for the Halloween of 2019. The rubber sole that glows in the dark, has a translucid opaque look to combine with the transparency of the skeleton graphic that looks like a X-Ray of a foot.
The classic shape of the Air Forces and their historial impact are now being adapted to the nowadays needs, but never losing its indetity.
A MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR
It is with an enormous pleasure that the first issue of the FORMA MAGAZINE is now released. I would like to dedicate this page to express the satisfaction I am feeling right now. This magazine was build from scratch by someone who really wants to see the growing process of this project and achieve big goals setted specially for the magazine. Even though we still got a long journey ahead of us, I fell in love with the proces of constructing every page incorporated in this editorial, that holds long hours of research and hard work. A special thanks goes to someone very special who always pointed me in the right direction and helped me to see things clearly. Now, I can finally say that this magazine is from all of us, even from you, who are reading this. Welcome to the Forma Family.
Alice Derrica
NEW FACES NEW CASES
FORMA MAGAZINE ISSUE 1