Trend report AW/15

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FASH20032 N0511550 LISA HYNARD

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VISUAL MERCHANDISING & IN-STORE An Open Book Exposed Round about

CREATIVE DIRECTION Carnal Desire Free Spiri It's A Mans World

PRINT & GRAPHICS Dystopian Tropic Year 3000 Conflict

MENSWEAR Cutting it fine Uneven Downtown Funk

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Visual Merchandising is a practice that supports retailers in presenting their retail space in creative and innovative ways to maximise sales. Visual merchandising is more than window displays it also involves in-store layout and product merchandising, its everything you see within the store, from the colour painted on the walls to the fixtures products are sold from.

All of these elements within the retail space is Visual Merchandising. Having an appealing window display creates a visual sense of your brand therefore consumers will be naturally attracted to the space and enticed to go in store and purchase.

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The trend consisting of storytelling and children’s books has come around due to the 150th anniversary celebration of Lewis Carroll’s novel, Alice in Wonderland. The designs taken from the novel consist of playing cards, characters and the pocket watch, all which are used for visual merchandising around stores as art or furniture.

AN OPEN BOOK The theme is used within props for advertising campaigns such as Longchamp’s Fall AW15 campaign and is also an upcoming kid’s mega trend for AW 15/16. Disney’s fantasia soundtrack was the backing music to Prada’s AW15 Catwalk collection at Milan fashion week.

TANTALISING TEAL

MR. MUSTARD

IN THE MEADOW

JAR OF HEARTS

FIG 5 As the world becomes more virtual and streamline people want a more tactile experience. Industrial style can be an unfinished look and focuses on combining raw and pretty rough surfaces with clean, flat surfaces. It is a modern approach to interior design and visual merchandising, often blended with minimalism and can have a masculine appeal.

EXPOSED The main materials used are metal, steel, concrete and wood. It is clutter free and simple and has a clean look, natural exposed brickwork, piping and bold light fittings all add to this industrial effect as well as exposed ceilings.

50 SHADES OF GREY

DUST

LEATHER

CONCRETE

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Movement is a key new trend for visual merchandising; skate boards, bicycles and surfboards are set to takeover. There are so many possibilities and exciting designs that can feature on a skateboard, the lively colours and designs are guaranteed to capture and

ROUND ABOUT engage consumers. Skateboards which cover an entire wall is a visually stimulating way to create a statement. The Tour De France has inspired a new thrill and love for cycling and bikes therefore they will be introduced into stores as a prop.

INDUSTRIAL BLUE

PEACH NECTAR

SUNLIGHT

TAMPERED COTTON

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Creative direction is championing the intersection where art direction and design meet strategy.

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Trend: nudity. Where? Everywhere. Why? Confidence, androgyny, discovering the beauty from within. Mario Testino presented his most famous and extraordinary images at his ‘In your face’ exhibitions in Berlin this January. He featured photographs of Claudia Schiffer, as well as, one of his close friends Kate Moss, exposing their bodies to the camera.

Images presented at the exhibition spoke out to you, screaming confidence.

CARNAL DESIRE What was always thought to be restricted, is now an everyday thing. i-D magazine’s Beauty Issue presented photographs of both females and males exposing their naked bodies with no shame. The issue caused controversy in media, which made the society start to accept the thought of ‘less is more, but nothing is beautiful’. 21st century is developing our creative minds within the technology, as well as, the view we have on each other.

PATENT BLACK

DIRTY TAN

ROSE PETALS

BLUSHED

FIG 12 The bearded man has taken over and will continue to do so into A/W, this lumberjack look has inspired the new trend of free spirit.

Think freedom and bohemia, colour burst of feathers will be introduced as well luxury leather goods, suede fringing and fantastical fur.

FREE SPIRIT Nature is a key feature within this trend through woodland colours, get back down to earth with barky browns, mossy greens and peacock blues; it’s a playful trend which has no limit, release you’re inner free spirit.

PEACOCK BLUE

SANDY MOORES

MOSS

ROLL IN THE HAY

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FIG 15 ‘‘It’s about rejecting nostalgia’: from wide collars to sleek leather jackets, the designer mixes styles from decades past for apocalyptic androgyny’ – Dazed Digital editor Kin Woo (2015) talks about J.W. Anderson breaking the rules of fashion with creating something new, however very expected from the 21st century’s culture. It is a trend which also reflects transgender which is becoming more common and embraced within the fashion industry, one example being model Andreja

A MANS WORLD Pejic coming out as a transgender woman.

Fashion trends have been influenced by not only the coming season, but also by society.

Androgyny is now an everyday thing, and the designers like Rick Owens presenting a full collection of menswear with nudes and dresses, with androgynous long haired models, as well as J.W. Anderson who took a twist on pattern cutting and added femininity to his designs.

VELVET BLACK

METAL

COUNTRY FIELDS

LATE SUNSET

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Print and graphics is a form of visual communication. Using colours, symbols and shapes in order to create a design or pattern. Graphics can be made using software, overworking and manipulating layers to create an image/print which can then be used as clothing designs, and multiple forms of visual advertisements.

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Brought to life by Heimtextle to Maison & Objet, tropics consist of exotic fauna, flora, landscapes and colours. Tropical fruit and prints are what take the spotlight this upcoming season, Flamingo’s, palm leaf and pineapple illustrations become a reoccurring element in designs and objects.

DYSTOPIAN TROPICS Darker florals dominate offering a more sophisticated look, sultry, earthly tones sit on black or navy backgrounds replacing bright tropics from previous seasons. Oversized leaves offer a sophisticated, minimal interpretation of the classic tropical print.

MIDNIGHT

GO GO FLAMINGO

SQUEEZED LIME

PINEAPPLE

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FIG 20 Black leather, latex, tight sheer chiffon wrapped around the head, with zips on oversized tops.

Designers have now introduced a new trends for the AW15/16 collections which we have discovered as futurism. Charcoal black, navy,

YEAR 3000 steel grey, skyline blue and space black create a colour palette representing year 3000. Colours and patterns flashing at you like strobe lights, and changing at different angles and lighting.

SPACE

MADE OF STEEL

SKYLINE

CLOUD 9

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Menswear prints look to the East for Fall/ Winter, consisting of interior-inspired patterns with hints of Arabian exoticism to create a culture clash of prints. Bold pops of winter brights can also be used to add a statement touch to dark seasonal colours.

CONFLICT This print expresses a modern East meets West appeal. Michael Ginsberg’s designs are particular inspired with layers of clashing prints from the film Mad Men, which is also a key influence in the resurrection of leather bags, sharp suits and printed shirts.

VELVET TEDDY

ZEBRA

RUBY WOO

IN THE MIST

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Thinking of a suited gentleman, your mind automatically thinks: well fitted, smart, confident, elegant, handsome and eveningwear. In the coming AW season, designers e.g.: Balmain’s Oliver Rousteing compromised the elegant occasion-wear and gave his consumers something to cooperate with during daytime.

CUTTING IT FINE Bringing out sophistication but simplifying it through khaki and turquoise shades. Tailoring is all about simple but smart – white shirt, black tie and suit, by adding colour to the garments you create a more casual look, more comfortable and this is what the consumers want. Keeping it smart with a casual pattern.

TWEED

WASHED UP

SAGE

PIGSKIN

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Androgyny and transgender has currently got a huge influence on fashion and its society.

With the model Anreja Pejic coming out as a transgender female and Rick Owens presenting a full collection with up frontal exposure, the topic of homosexuals and androgyny has gone viral throughout January.

It is now a very common thing to be gay, society accepts it and gets influenced by it.

UNEVEN Asymmetric trend of the uneven pattern cutting, as well as, feminine garments at J.W. Anderson’s AW15 runway has been influenced by everything that is happening to our society. A century ago, homosexuals and transgender were a taboo topic – now it’s a reality. Fashion talks about it and exposes it in a form of clothing as well as photography, with an example of The Beauty Issue of the i-D magazine.

DEEP BLUE SEA

FLEECE

BALM

MAUVE

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FIG 29 Street wear is the perfect combination of comfort and style, street wear has officially gone luxurious thanks to a new generation of fashionistas. Astrid Andersen’s collections epitomises street chic with an innovative twist incorporating Japanese style, fusing basketball uniform silhouettes with Japanese sumo

DOWNTOWN FUNK inspired aprons is just one example of how street wear can be taken to exciting new levels.

Monochrome dominates, with oversizing and long tees taking centre stage, zips are the essential accessory, and of course finish the look with a killer pair of kicks.

BLACKOUT

TARTAN CHECK

STONE PAVEMENT

WASHED OUT DENIM

I L LU ST R AT IO N S

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Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 2: Decofilia. (2014). Ideas para decorar. Available: http://decofilia.com/blog/decoracion-escaparates-primavera/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 3: Mrs Woog. (2015). Rehabilitation. Available: http://www.woogsworld.com/ . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 4: Nick Stenson. (2014). Fashionista Marionette. Available: http://www.behindthechair.com/displaycollection.aspx?CPID=10586&ITID=1. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 5: Artica. (2013). COS. Available: http://retaildesignblog.net/2013/05/15/pop-up-stores-cos-pop-up-concept-store-by-remy-clemente-morgan-maccari-milan-2/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 6: RYAN E. PLETT. (2011). Carapicuiba House. Available: http://youhavebrokentheinternet.blogspot. co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-05-01T13:47:00-05:00&max-results=8. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 7: Ezzo Design. (2011). x3 new office. Available: http://www.archilovers.com/projects/39073/x3-new-office.html. Last accessed 13/05/15 FIG 8: Courtney. (2014). YIU Studio. Available: http://www.designworklife.com/2013/10/16/yiu-studio-rivetsway-pop-up-shop/. Last accessed 13/05/15 FIG 9: marcoreichert. (2015). Gruppenausstellung. Available: http://www.marcoreichert.com/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 10: Wachabuy. (2015). Heels Heels Heels. Available: http://wachabuy.com/heels-heels-heels/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 11: mareeharb. (2015). Rated PG?. Available: https://mareeharb.wordpress.com/page/2/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 12: lantoran. (2014). Anywhere with you is home. Available: http://lanetoran.tumblr.com/post/77457839028/ shot-by-alexander-george. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 13: anon. (2013). Lovebirds. Available: http://rebloggy.com/post/love-birds-painting-animal-artist-feathers-bird-pet-raven-water-color-fence-crow/31993055548. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 14: Andrea supa. (2015). @andreasupa. Available: http://andresupa.tumblr.com/post/111030959139. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 15: Rick owens. (2015). Fear me clothes. Available: http://www.polyvore.com/fear_me_clothes/collection?id=3516739 . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 16: sazsa. (2012). Cool Factor. Available: http://zsazsabellagio.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/cool-factor.html .

Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 17: Matthew williamson. (2014). Eden. Available: http://www.matthewwilliamson.com/mw-daily/9953/ news-sunbirds-songbirds . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 18: GryuLich. (2014). GryuLich. Available: http://gryulich.tumblr.com/post/89338496240 . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 19: windnlightning. (2014). Futuristic Fashion. Available: http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/futuristic-fashion. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 20: Hugo Jackomet. (2012). Too much of a good thing?. Available: http://parisiangentleman. co.uk/2012/06/19/too-much-of-a-good-thing/. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 21: GryuLich. (2014). GryuLich. Available: http://gryulich.tumblr.com/post/89338496240 . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 22: anon. Nanchang web design. Available: http://abc.2008php.com/tuku/2013/0731/925824.html. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 23: lookastic. Whats in your wardrobe?. Available: http://lookastic.com/men/burgundy-print-pocket-square/looks. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 24: Etsy. (n/a). Quilting acres. Available: https://www.etsy.com/listing/168717741/15-16-x-8-hand-dyedfelted-wool-fabric. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 25: Joe. (2014). Oversized. Available: http://josdivision.tumblr.com/post/43322201418. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 26: Becantall. (2014). Mens style Fabric. Available: http://becantall.tumblr.com/post/98621457976. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 27: Noblestrain. (2014). Noblestrain. Available: http://noblestrain.tumblr.com/post/87935178792. Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 28: Sickstreetwear. (2014). Sickstreetwear. Available: http://sickstreetwear.com/post/105689260910/allthe-latest-in-street-fashion-check-out-the . Last accessed 13/05/15.

FIG 29: Sickstreetwear. (2014) Streets. Available: http://sickstreetwear.com/post/105689260910/all-the-latestin-street-fashion-check-out-the . Last accessed 13/05/15.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Bergström, B., 2008. Storytelling. In: Storytelling. Essentials of Visual Communication.

London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2008, pp. 13.

Bergström, B., 2008. Typography. In: Typography. Essentials of Visual Communication.

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Gibson, E., 2002. Carnal Desire. USA. Kinsella, F., 2014. The Beautiful issue. (Beauty).

Posner, H., 2011. Marketing Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Ramos, P., Beauty portrait photography with sparklers [online]. . Available at: http:// www.picturecorrect.com/tips/beauty-portrait-photography-with-sparklers/ [Accessed January/3 2015].

So, V., 2015. Telfar AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/23639/1/telfar-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].

Tsjeng, Z., 2015. What Rick Owens’ full-frontal runway show says about us [online].

Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23353/1/whatrickowens-full-frontal-runway-show-says-about-us [Accessed February/27 2015].

Woo, K., 2015. J.W. Anderson AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23160/1/j-w-anderson-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].

REFERENCES

Anon., 2015. Adidas originals x Kanye West. YouTube: .

Anon., 2015. Dazed Digital [online]. Dazed Digitial. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/ [Accessed March/1 2015].

Anon., 2015. WGSN Tumblr [online]. WGSN. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ [Accessed March/2 2015].

Anon., 2011. BBC News - London Riots [online]. BBC News. Available at: http://www. bbc.co.uk/news/uk-14449675 [Accessed March/1 2015].

Gibson, E., 2002. Carnal Desire. USA. Kinsella, F., 2014. The Beautiful issue. (Beauty).

So, V., 2015. Telfar AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/23639/1/telfar-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].

Tsjeng, Z., 2015. What Rick Owens’ full-frontal runway show says about us [online].

Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23353/1/whatrickowens-full-frontal-runway-show-says-about-us [Accessed February/27 2015].

Woo, K., 2015. J.W. Anderson AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23160/1/j-w-anderson-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].