johnstons of elgin

1797 CUT AND STYLE

“a la Diane”

“a la Vestale”

"a la sauvage"

Traditional Grecian Clothing In the 1790’s there had been a return to Grecian clothing. The dress had slimmed down from the fancy and turned into the simplistic.

Grecian clothing was simplistic with basic shapes made from fabrics which depended on fasteners such as pins and brooches to create shape around the body.

Grecian clothing was incorporated with checks and Floral shaped patterns. The most common of which was the Greek key/fret pattern shown above.

Drapery was the main factor here when producing garments to the Grecians.

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Grecian style clothing in the 1790’s

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Grecian Style Fashion Today

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Bottega Veneta Grecian Wedding dresses

Jovani

Philippines Fashion Week – Santi Obcena pg2

Daffodil gown, J. Mendel

Eun Jeong Hong winner of The Fashion Fringe Award 2008 Pg 3

The Muscadins

The era of the French Revolution saw the introducing of the Muscadins. They were Described as young well-dressed wealthy men who rebelled against properties of the preceding government. From 1793 to 1795 the Muscadins were also considered to be part of the White Terror associated with Reign of Terror (French Revolution). They adopted the grey tail coat and green tie, also they restyled the waistcoat adding larger concepts and new design features. Decoration to their garments consisted of ribbons and stripes.

Muscadins Clothing

The Muscadins are also sometimes known as Dandy types

The image to the right shows the wealth of the Muscadins.

Also showing the Grecian Fashion set out for women at this time

Clothing Concepts of the Muscadins The shoes have no buckles with low hills and durable clogs. They have striped stockings as well as gloves in two or three colours The cap of Cockrade is worn

The cocked hat is replaced by the round hat with the top crowned and decorated with a silk cockrade.

There is a ribbon which goes around the crown called “Bourdaloue�

The wealthy men continue to wear the wig

The Incroyables

The Incroyables (incredibles) were the French living fashionable subcultures of the French Revolution, who were the successors to the Muscadins. Their exaggerated fashion consisted of green jackets, wide trousers and huge hats where their hair fell over the ears. Their trousers were usually tucked into their boots and contained stripes similar to what the working class wore.

The Incroyables style

The Incroyable requested for his trousers to be puckered to make his knees look knocked. His striped stockings were to be rolling as a cork-screw around his legs and to have ribbons. His tailor was to cut out his square coat nearly of the shape of a redingote. A golden tie clip would be all that is seen of his shirt under the waistcoat and his puffy tie would hide the neck.

The Merveilleuses

The Incroyables and the Merveilleuses (Marvellous women) went hand in hand during their success. The women ruled the live fast, die young social regulation.

Their dress were of Grecian style, with wearing semi-transparent tunics and often showing cleavage. They also wore wigs in colours black, blue, green and blonde.

Dior brought out a jewellery collection named Incroyables et Merveilleuses.

Simply inspired from the fashionable dressers

The ‘False Stomach’

The False Stomach originated from Duchess of York during her pregnancy. The waist line had risen to under the breasts and the skirt of the dress was allowed to fall gracefully over the hips. This style was usually made from fine white lawn, muslin or batiste. The simplistic decoration on the dress was inspired by Grecian patterns from traditional Greek art.

English ‘Spencer’ jacket

1797 fashion plate featuring a striped cotton dress and a Spencer jacket

FICHU

Fichu construction made from triangular cut cotton

Fichu made of cotton

Fichus worn with 1797 dresses

Decorative Fichu

1790’s Shawls

The patterns and drapery of these shawls show inspiration from the Grecian styling.

1797 Women’s Accessories By 1797 Women began using handbags. This was because women’s dresses were no longer large but made from muslin resulting in little fabric. The Reticule bag was then perfect as it was small and discreet.

It also had small decorative designs applied and looked much like an evening purse of today.

Hats were very prominent in the late 18th century where bonnets were most popular.

Sailor inspired Trousers worn by the working class in late 18th century

Late 18th Century Sailor inspired Fashion

Concepts of late 18th century dress

Plumes in Red, White and Blue Rosette

18th Century styled Rosette

Fabrics used in France in 1797

Lightweight Muslin In the late 18th century it seemed silk and brocades had been replaced by Muslin and white cotton. The fashion at this time meant that these fabrics were perfect for the ‘false stomach’ and Grecian inspired dress. Also Muslin was less expensive and so was more available than silk and brocades.

Cotton Dresses in 1797

Fabric swatches