Void
1:1 north american desert journal
Void 1:1 north american desert journal
Great Basin Desert Colorado Plateau Mojave Desert Sonoran Desert Chihuahuan Desert
exploring the five great deserts of north america
|
www.markliskphotogaphy.com
Great Basin Desert 1:1 | in this issue - the San Rafael Swell Swell
| Colorado Plateau Mojave Desert Sonoran Desert Chihuahuan Desert
Void
1:1 north american desert journal
Void is published by Lisk Studios, inc. A division of Lisk Galley dedicated to the well being and the preservation of the four great North America’s deserts, and the Colorado Plateau. There are four true deserts in the US; Great Basin, Mojave, Sonoran and Chihuahuan, all conforming to the basic definition of a desert as being a place of very low rainfall and restricted plant life. Of these, the Great Basin is a predominantly cold desert, receiving much snow in winter, and many parts are not much difference in appearance to some of the adjoining lands. The other three are hot for most of the year and more closely resemble a desert of popular imagination, containing large areas with very little plant life, just sand and barren rocks, or sparse grassland, often mixed with many types of cactus. The Colorado Plateau is not classified by scientist as a true desert. Some classify it as the southeastern extent of the Great Basin Desert. This publication considers it as its own distinct desert region.
Art direction and design Mark William Lisk, Lisk Studio Inc.., Boise Idaho Art consultation Melissa Osgood, Yellow M, Boise
Editor Dan Breedan, Coeur D’allene, Idaho
Contact Us: mark@liskgallery.com
The Great Basin Desert is largest in area, covering southeast Oregon, a small portion of northeast California, most of west Utah, part of southeast Idaho, and the majority of Nevada - all except the southernmost 150 miles which are within the Mojave Desert, and some northern mountain ranges bordering Idaho. All this land is characterized by long, thin, parallel mountain ridges running north-south, separated by wider valleys, often containing dry lake beds (playas) or salt basins. The few rivers run inwards, with no outlet to the ocean; their waters ultimately either sink below ground or evaporate.
ashley@liskgallery.com or at write: Lisk Studio 518 Amerucana Blvd, Boise, ID 83702 www.markliskphotography.com
The Mojave Desert covers the southernmost 150 miles of Nevada, a tiny area of southwest Utah, lower elevation regions of northwest Arizona (bordering the Colorado River) and most of southeast California. The topography is generally similar to the Great Basin, with isolated mountains and wide, flat plains, but temperatures are hotter, vegetation sparser, and the hills are less numerous. Las Vegas is the one major city in this region, which includes some of California’s most famous parks, namely Death Valley, Mojave, Anza Borrego and the northern half of Joshua Tree, together with some lesser known places like Pinnacles National Natural Landmark, Rainbow Basin, Red Rock Canyon, a long stretch of former Route 66 and Saddleback Butte. The Sonoran Desert of southwest Arizona and the south-eastern tip of California has perhaps the most archetypal desert scenery in the Southwest, with vast flat plains and abundant cacti, especially the giant saguaro, which occurs most densely in Arizona towards the higher elevation reaches of the desert, between 1,500 and 3,500 feet. The desert is itself divided into subregions including the Colorado and Yuha deserts of California, the Yuma Desert of far southwest Arizona and the Arizona desert further east. It continues a long way south into Mexico, nearly 500 miles down the east side of the Gulf of California. Much of the Sonoran Desert is protected, either as BLM or NPS preserves, although other large stretches are part of military reservations. Major cities are Phoenix, Tucson, Yuma, Palm Springs (at the western edge) and El Centro. The Chihuahuan Desert is the second largest in the US, and also extends a long way into Mexico. It covers the southern third of New Mexico, excluding several mountain ranges, and all of far west Texas, west of a line between Del Rio and Monahans. Elevations are generally higher than in the Sonoran Desert (2,000 to 6,000 feet), and precipitation is a little greater, with most rain falling during the summer thunderstorm season. Cacti are still quite numerous but are generally smaller than to the west; instead, the dominant plants are yucca and agave, though even so, as with many other desert regions, large areas have only the ubiquitous creosote bushes and mesquite trees. El Paso is the largest city, while other major settlements are Las Cruces, Roswell and Pecos. The Colorado Plateau is a physiographic “province,” a region geologically and topographically distinct from other parts of the West. Originally named the “Colorado Plateaus” by explorer John Wesley Powell, the “Plateau” is in fact a huge basin ringed by highlands and filled with plateaus. Sprawling across southeastern Utah, northern Arizona, northwestern New Mexico, and western Colorado, the Colorado Plateau province covers a land area of 130,000 square miles. Of America’s 50 states, only Alaska, Texas, California, and Montana are larger.
Front Cover: The Eye of Sinbad (Wild Horse Windows). Back Cover: Buckhorn Gulch Pictographs Inside Cover: Rochester Petraglyphs, Molen Reef Page One: Barrier Style Pictograph, Buckhorn Gulch. Page Three: Patterns on the salt playa of Goblin Valley
All images are copyrighted © Mark William Lisk
SAN RAFAEL THE
SWELL
Great Basin Desert Colorado Plateau Mojave Desert Sonoran Desert Chihuahuan Desert
In this issue Void is exploring Utah’s San Rafael Swell.
Void
SAN RAFAEL THE
SWELL
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East of the Wasatch Plateau, and the Fishlake Mountains, I-70 cuts through an empty undeveloped region of Utah - a wide plateau crossed by two entrenched river systems (The San Rafael River and Muddy Creek) surrounded by a ring of upturned strata. This is the San Rafael Swell - arid, little vegetated yet often very scenic, with mesas, cliffs, buttes, springs and especially canyons; these are sometimes wide with stepped sides but often narrow and slotlike. Most is owned by the BLM and could well be a future national monument; for now though the land is open and access is unrestricted. The Swell is an oval shaped uplifted area of layered rocks - geologically termed an anticline - about 75 x 40 miles in extent, most of which has been eroded away forming the mostly flat central plateau, while the strata at the edges are left exposed and angled near vertically (the San Rafael Reef); here are found most of the spectacular canyons, especially in the southeast section. | Description provided by www.americnasouthwest.net an amazing site describing activities and adventures in all of the desert of North America. | Map provided by http://written-in-stone-seen-through-my-lens.blogspot.com/2011/08/flight-plan-part-i-geology-ofsan.html a terrific blog explaining the formation of the San Rafael Swell.
he
Protecting the Colorado Plateau
Wilderness wins the day Americans defeated some outrageous measures to undermine bedrock conservation laws and strip protections and funding from wildlands, but the fight may not be over yet.
wilderness.org
VOID
1:1 north american desert journal
RAVEN SPEAK 8 HEAD OF SINBAD 18 THE REEF 24 MOLEN REEF 32 ART IN THE DESERT 38 IN OUR NEXT ISSUE 44
SAN RAFAEL THE
SWELL
| Buckhorn Gulch rock art panel
Raven Speak
by mark william lisk
“ the ravens echo
welcomes me back to the canyon “
The raven speaks, calling from the walls of the vertical sedimentary cliffs that drop away then down to the river. Slashing upward, the sinister ebony silhouette enters the azure sky above the rim. and soars over the reef, into an area known as the wedge - the ravens echo, welcomes me back to the canyon.
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From the Wedge Overlook the San Rafael River passes through a twisted stone maze and cuts deep across and earthen reef, and into the swell. The San Rafael Swell is a huge anticline dome formed by pressure, stacked up and pushed to the surface along a fault line more than 70 million years ago and covering an area of 4,472 sq. miles. I-70 divides the San Rafael Swell into two sections. The northern edge, along the Green River cutoff road, crosses the swell below Cedar Mountain heading east to west from Castle Dale, (Hwy 10) to Green River (Hwy 6). This is the main access road in the northern part of the swell and
| Sandstone peaks rise above the San Rafael River at the Wedge Overlook.
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connects to the Buckhorn Gulch and Cottonwood Wash Roads, which travels south to I-70. Midway along the Green River cutoff road, I drop through sandstone guardians and into the entrance of Buckhorn Gulch. The road is gradual and descends along the cottonwood - lined wash, leading to the famous Buckhorn Gulch Pictograph Panel. A 160-foot long stone canvas painted by ancient dwellers of the
| Hiking information go to: http://www.utah.com/price/hike.htm. http://www.gjhikes.com/2013/12/sanrafael-swell-area.html | Slot Canyon information go to: http://www.americansouthwest.net/slot_ canyons/san_rafael_swell/index.html
San Rafael.
| Winged figures at the Buckhorn Gulch pictograph panal | Freemont Style petraglyphs in the Buckhorn Wash | Cottonwood trees line the cool bottom of Buchhorn Gulch
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| A cottonwood dances in the morning light at the bottom of Buckhorn Gulch | The San Rafael River at the Swinging Bridge
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This road is maintained and in dry weather is easily doable in a passenger car. Not much further down the Buckhorn Gulch the canyon begins to widen in it anticipation with the San Rafael River at the Swinging Bridge. Here the river emerges from the “Little Grand Canyon,� providing an amazing view up to the Wedge Overlook.
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From the Swinging Bridge I head south along the Cottonwood Draw road the formations begin to emerge as single features and are reminiscent of the formations of Monument Valley or Valley of the Gods. Each butte more defined as you climb up from the river bottom to view massive configurations, like Bottle Neck and Window Blind Peaks. The road continues up onto imestone flat, typical of the central regions of the swell, and becomes the Cottonwood Wash Road, with long views of the Cain Wash to the West and Mexican Mountain to the East. The Cottonwood Wash Road continues south for several miles over rolling grass hills to exit 131 on I-70, with numerous marked side roads to trail heads and slot canyons.
| Bottle Neck Peak rises above the San Rafael River Canyon
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The southern section of the swell runs from I-70 to just north of Hanksville, near the confluence of Muddy Creek and the Fremont River. This area is accessible from many points along I-70 and highway 24. The main north and south route through the center of the swell is the Heart of Sinbad Road, which takes you from I-70 (exit 131) through the eastern edge
head of sinbad
of the Reef at Temple Mountain near Goblin Valley State Park.
I cross under the highway to access the southern swell and Shortly encountering a sign that reads, “Head Of Sinbad�. With plenty of daylight I am immediately compelled to alter my course and check it out. A short side trip west takes me to the highest elevations of the swell and to an impressive blond ridge of Navajo Sandstone at Locomotive Point. The sandstone knobs here are obviously the natural north - south dividing line. and home to some of the most | Pictographs near Locomotive Point | Ductchman Arch
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interesting pictographs in the area.
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I work my way back across the central grassy section on one of the many back-country roads to the main Heart of Sinbad Road or (Temple Mountain Road). Temple Mountain and the eastern edge of the swell comes into view. By far the most dramatic part of the San Rafael, housing numerous slots and tanks. The Reef here dominates this area of the Swell. The layers of earth that were once horizontal have been lifted up and eroded into jagged Navajo sandstone fins that now sharply break the horizon. The road breaches the reef at the Temple Mountain Pictographs and breaks through white sandstone and onto the flat San Rafael Desert, near Goblin Valley State Park.
| Navajo Sandstone cliffs at the Head of Sinbad | Sunrise at the Dutchman Arch in the Head of Sinbad Country
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| Sunrise at Locomotive Ridge high in Sinbad country | circlular shapes and round stone on the Goblin Valley Playa | Hoo Doos on the Goblin Valley Floor near Molly’s Castle
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the R eef by mark william lisk
| Temple Mountain Pictographs | Wild Horse Windows (The Eye of Sinbad)
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“I follow a raven, circling and disappearing into a mysterious opening of the reef�. From my camp along the reef I have an amazing view of Wild Horse Creek. Not the creek itself but an undaunted incision cut through stone, and displaying centuries of time within an abrasive horizon. The elements slowly and with purpose etch deeply into this country. I follow a raven, circling and disappearing into a mysterious opening of the reef. Revealing the entrance to the alcove at Wild Horse Windows. There I follow small water filled tanks that lead me to a sheer walled opening and the hidden alcove. A place of power. A place I can peer into the past, through the Eye of Sinbad, up to the azure sky where the ravens speak.
| Carins mark the entracne to the Wild Horse Slot | Graphic shape etched into the walls of the Wild Horse Slot | Smooth Sandstone walls in the Wild Horse Slot
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| A place of power,The Wild Horse Windows (The Eye Of Sinbad)
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| Canoneering USA: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/ swell/ | American Southwes-slot canyons http://www.americansouthwest.net/slot_ canyons/san_rafael_swell/index.html | Guide Books: Canyoneering: The San Rafael Swell by Steve Allen http://www.amazon.com/CanyoneeringThe-San-Rafael-Swell/dp/0874803721 Hiking & Exploring Utah’s San Rafael Swell, 4th Edition in color. Mike Kelsey http://kelseyguidebooks.com/
| Water Tanks at the Wild Horse Windows | Hiking the slot at Little Wild Horse Canyon
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Molen Reef by mark william lisk
Water is the furthest thing from my mind as I traverse across the sandy playa towards Short Canyon in search of rock art panels. The canyon sits on the western edge of the Swell along an ancient shoreline and the Molen Reef. Everything about this landscape was born in water. Evidence of receding water left behind in stone. Void 1:1 32
| Water Tank at the Red Ledges in the Molen Reef
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Short Canyon, just as the name implies is a short canyon that bridges the desert playa up to the ridge line and the reef above. This could have been an access point for the ancient Native American cultures to move freely from rim to playa. It houses several rock art panels that contain both Barrier culture pictographs as well as Fremont petroglyph.
| Guide books kelseyguidebooks.com | ghikes.com http://www.gjhikes.com/2013/12/rochesterrock-art-panel.html | Barrier Canyon Rock Art style: http://www.bcsproject.org/barrierstyle.html | Barrier Canyon Rock Art style: http://www.nps.gov/care/learn/ historyculture/fremont.htm
| Sunrise over the Red Ledges along the Molen Reef | Short Canyon Petroglyph/pictographs
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The huge canyon drops from the Wasatch Plateau high above the Castle Valley draining into Muddy Creek. This is the major drainage for the southern section, cutting through the Swell in a south east heading toward its confluence with the Fremont River, forming the Dirty Devil. The upper reaches of Muddy Creek is home to some of the best Petraglyph in the area, The Rochester Rock Art Panel. This panel is evidence of the long history of the Fremont culture in this area.
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| Short Canyon in the Molen - Red Ledges | Rochester Rock Art Panel - Molen Reef
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Art in the desert Void | north american desert journal
Jerri Lisk
Jerri Lisk was born into a life of Paint brushes pencils and paper. With ocean and desert in her veins, her world grew rich with color, her eye ready to fasten the most impossible blue to a hillside, or to find the strongest form to represent the shape of a tree. | www.liskgallery.com
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| Walking tree (page 38 left)
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| Sycamore Slope (page 38 right)
| Old Soul (page 39)
A student under painter Frank Holda, she later studied in London at the Leonard Pardon school of Specialty Design. Where she taught walls to become chameleons and whispered fluently the language of texture, material, surface, and hue. From her home in Boise, Jerri now sets out into deserts, up craggy limber pine ridge-tops and down into dry river canyons, capturing in pen the stark forms of trees hills and valley bottoms. Later she illuminates her line. Unfolding three dimensional worlds within her paper, filling each with intense color and depth of light, on the surface of Aluminum, her small series and large works now glow from the brick and mortar walls of the Lisk Gallery in Boise Idaho and inside the Patricia Rovzar Gallery in Seattle, the Paul Scott Gallery in Bend Oregon, as well the Art Sprit Gallery in Coeur d’Alene Idaho.
| Seen it all
| Far and Away
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leave the crowds OUR NEXT ISSUE brought to you by
Outcast Sporting Gear
www.outcastboats.com
Void
1:1 north american desert journal
BEHIND
Protecting the Colorado Plateau
Wilderness wins the day Americans defeated some outrageous measures to undermine bedrock conservation laws and strip protections and funding from wildlands, but the fight may not be over yet.
wilderness.org
Contributors
Upcoming Issues
| Wilderness Society - www.wilderness.org
| Great Basin - Owyhee Canyonlands
| Vibe - Handmade Bicycles www.vibebikes.com
| Colorado Plateau - The River GCNP
| AIRE / Outcast Sporting Gear - www.outcastboats.com
| Sonoran - Iron Wood Forest NM
| Artist Jerri Lisk - www.liskgallery.com
| Mojave - Mojave Preserve
| Rick Johnson - Idaho Conservation League
| Chihuahuan - City of Rocks S P
| Gallery five18 - Boise
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Void
1:1 north american desert journal
IN OUR NEXT ISSUE Owyhee Canyonlands
| A look into the Great Basins ION country - Idaho, Oregon, and Nevada. Some of Americas most remote and undiscovered country. | The people of the landscape | Owyhee shuttle drivers - not for the weak at heart. | Artist - Rachel Teannalach highlighting paintings from her home in the Great Basin.
| The Owyhee Jack Ass - shuttle Driver | Owyhee Cowboy - Hanley Ranch
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O
OWYHEE Great Basin
IDaho | Oregon | Nevada
| Pictograph panel - Wild Horse Windows | Desert Playa - Goblin Valley State Park
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Void
1:1 north american desert journal
searchable stock photography |
www.markliskphotogaphy.com
Void
1:1 north american desert journal
Void
1:1 north american desert journal