GOING PLACES, NEAR & FAR.... Machu Picchu, Galapagos Models for Responsible, Sustainable Tourism

Continued from previous page tainable tourism – both in preserving Machu Picchu and the historic sites along the Inca Trail and as a model for other travel enterprises. You can see it in the comparative prosperity of Cuzco, once the capital of the Incan Empire and the epicenter of the Incan world.

So, on the third day of the four-day Inca Trail trek – in the morning before we headed out and again this eveningour Alpaca Expeditions guide, Lizandro Aranzabal Huaman, created opportunities for us to get to know who our porters, chefs and staff were who were making this experience possible, and they to know us. This is what Responsible Tourism is all about – a connection, appreciation and an opportunity to improve the lives of the local community, and, similarly, an appreciation for the guests whose tourism dollars provide them a better quality of life as well as the funds to preserve and protect their heritage.

The porters, chefs and guides - 22 of them to 15 of us (one fellow was the “sanitation engineer” charged with maintaining the private portable potty; two of the porters were brothers, aged 62 and 68, and one was a woman, which is still unusual) - come mostly from the same mountain village and leave their families for weeks on end in order to do these treks, but at least they have the camaraderie of their friends.

Lizandro’s own story is illustrative. On our first day of the four-day Inca Trail trek, as we walked through one of the mountain villages, he told us that this village was where he grew up and has family among the 96 people who still live there.

“In my community there was no school. My parents sent me for education –I stayed with an uncle for three years until my parents couldn’t pay for school. I met a chef and became a porter at 18 years old, 15 years ago.” He learned English from the trekkers. His first English words, he tells us, were “baby spoon” when he was 18.

“Fifteen years ago, porters were exploited by companies – they hired fewer to make more profit,” Lizandro tells us. “Then, they carried 40-45 kilos; companies didn’t provide uniforms, equipment, back support, not even food. They had to carry their own blanket and did not have a tent. Salaries were 50 Soles for a four-day hike - not even $15. My first hike was so difficult, a porter made me take coca leaves. I got 50 Soles for a tip. 15 years ago in Peru, 50 Soles was a lot – 1 sole could buy 20 breads, now it only buys 2 breads.”

Then, 15 years ago, the porters organized with the help of the Cuzco government, and got regulations to provide better conditions. Now the porters carry a maximum of 28 kilos and guests are restricted to bringing 7 kilos which includes a sleeping bag in the duffel that is supplied.

Now, even though the porters are protected, some companies still make them carry heavier packs and do not provide hiking boots; some porters still hike in sandals instead of boots, Lizandro said.

Raul Ccolque who founded Alpaca Expeditions, grew up in a small town in the Sacred Valley and while he was studying tourism, worked as a porter and later as a tour guide. Ccolque witnessed firsthand how companies exploited their porters - not only were they poorly paid, but they would also be badly bruised or injured due to carrying heavier loads than necessary, without proper hiking boots or uniforms, sleeping bags. They even had to supply their own food. Raul set out to create a company that would remedy this inhumane situation.

“Most of our porters live in a village outside of Cusco – typically 2 to 4 hours away. We cover all entrance fees (45 soles which is $15 per porter) and transportation to and from the trek for our porters, separate from their salary,” the website says. “They are paid directly after the trek, so they do not have to travel back to Cusco before heading home. Unfortunately, this is an uncommon practice. They receive better wages, health insurance [not a given in Peru] and all of their equipment for free. This includes hiking boots, pants, jerseys, fleeces, jackets, hats, flashlights, sleeping bags, and amazing food to eat. We make sure they have a comfortable bed in a lovely room to sleep before (and after if needed) the trek instead of crashing on a floor like others.” Alpaca Expeditions built Porters House where they stay between trips, and where we met them for our breakfast at the start of the trek.

Also, “In keeping with the Andean concept of ‘ayni’, or giving back to the community, Alpaca Expeditions has numerous social projects,” the company states. “Our pride and joy has been ‘adopting’ the highland villages where our porters’ families have lived for centuries as subsistence farmers. Several times a year we go to these villages to help supply their schools with books, computers and basic hygiene supplies. We have even provided the funds necessary to employ a teacher. We have also started a tree planting project that reintroduced 3,000 of the indigenous, but rapidly disappearing Queuña tree. Alpaca Expeditions is dedicated to improving

A Greener View

Dormant Mail Order Plants and Bulbs

BY JEFF RUGG

Q: When I ordered some grapevines and raspberry plants back in January, it sure seemed like having them arrive in April would be a good idea. The catalog and websites I ordered from predicted this would be a good time to plant the bare-root plants. The plants arrived on time, but the temperatures predicted for the near future are well below freezing. What do I do with these plants if I can’t plant them for several weeks?

A: Most of the maps in the catalogs are based on hardiness zones that map out the average coldest winter temperature. They are a bit worse at predicting spring temperatures. Some years are warmer, and some are colder.

Mail order plants arrive bare-root or in pots with some soil. The bare-root plants will typically have wet newspaper or other material wrapped around the roots to keep them damp. The most important thing you can do is keep the roots damp. Not waterlogged, just damp. Add more water as necessary and seal the roots in a plastic bag if they dry out too quickly.

If the plant doesn’t have any leaves yet, then you don’t need to give it any light. Keep the plant as cool as you can, but above freezing. The plants have been refrigerated in the upper 30s to low 40s for the winter, so another couple of weeks won’t hurt.

When the weather gets better, you will be able to plant them. Take off the wet newspaper and spread the roots out in the hole. Plant it so the stem or trunk is at the same level with the soil as it was when it was growing before it was harvested.

If the new plant already has leaves or starts to get them, then giving it light will be necessary. If you determine that you won’t be able to plant it for a couple of weeks, then you can plant it in a temporary pot. You don’t even have to worry about spreading out the roots; just wrap them in a pot, cover them with soil and water them. Give it as much light as possible. If there isn’t enough, the leaves will be white or light green and the stem between the leaves will stretch and become weak.

When the weather allows you to plant it, you will need to harden it off first. When the temperature is above freezing, place it outdoors in bright light, but not direct sunshine. Increase the amount of direct sun a little at a time over a week or two. After planting, it may need pro- our community and sharing these social projects.” The company is also working with a local clinic in Cusco to provide dental care and skin examinations for the children of each of its porters’ villages.

People used to be able to do the Inca Trail trek on their own, doing their own camping. But they left such a mess, the government now requires every person going to Machu Picchu to obtain a permit and go with a licensed tour company. Still, Alpaca Expeditions has found the need to extend its “eco-friendly” and “sustainable” values beyond its own staff and guests. “Not only do we clean up after ourselves, but we even have campaigns where our staff cleans up the messes others have left behind. There is a key concept in the Andean ‘cosmovision’ known as ‘ayni’. It means ‘reciprocity’ – that as you take, you must give back. We are dedicated to treating our beautiful Mother Earth, known as Pachamama in Peru, with respect and honor in exchange for all the abundance she gives to us.”

At the evening gathering, the night before we will reach Machu Picchu on the Inca Trail, Lizandro suggests that if there is anything that we would leave behind, that we donate it to the porters. Sarah and Eric compile a bunch of their stuff (the Inca Trail trek was the grand finale to six months of their travel odyssey) and bring it to the Alpaca Expeditions office the next day when we are back in Cuzco.

© 2023 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear. com tection from freezing at night, if the temperature drops too low.

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