A Passion for Bread

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HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HH “In his remarkable book, A Passion for Bread, Lionel Vatinet, a Master Baker, shares his vast knowledge, his love of baking, and his deep understanding of the ‘staff of life,’ without which there are no meals at our house.” —Jacques Pépin

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“Lionel Vatinet is known in the bread world as a baker’s baker and a teacher of teachers.” —Peter Reinhart, author of Artisan Breads Every Day and The Bread Baker’s Apprentice

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Lionel Vatinet, a driving force in the artisanal baking movement in America, apprenticed for seven years in Les Compagnons du Devoir, a French craftsman’s guild that dates back to the Middle Ages. Today he honors the great tradition in which he was trained, sharing his knowledge and his passion by teaching and consulting around the country and innovating new breads at his celebrated bakery café, La Farm Bakery in Cary, North Carolina. A Passion for Bread brings Vatinet’s encyclopedic knowledge of bread to the American home. In this invaluable guide, detailed instructions and hundreds of stepby-step photographs help readers to master everyday loaves such as baguettes, ciabatta, and whole-grain breads, as well as loaves for special occasions, including Beaujolais Bread, Parmesan-Asiago Cheese Bread, and Lionel’s celebrated sourdough boule. It’s all brought together through Vatinet’s Seven Steps to Making Great Bread, a clear process that both new and experienced bakers will find invaluable.

Tamara Lackey

“A masterpiece of baking that will turn your kitchen into a Parisian boulangerie.” —Nancy Silverton, founder of La Brea Bakery and author of The Mozza Cookbook

Lionel Vatinet led the American team to their first-ever First Place win in the World Cup of Baking tournament, and he has instructed bakers at Panera Bread, Zabar’s, La Brea Bakery, and Terra Breads. He owns La Farm Bakery in Cary, North Carolina, where he lives with his wife and two daughters.

MARKETING AND PROMOTION National media campaign, including print, radio, and online interviews • Select author appearances Digital marketing/publicity campaign, including features and reviews, specialized blog outreach, and downloadable excerpts • Social network campaign, including Facebook, Twitter, Goodreads, and Shelfari On-sale date: November 5, 2013 • Cookbook Hardcover: 978-0-316-20062-2 • $35.00 US / $39.00 CAN 8 x 10 • 304 pages • 350 4-color photographs This is uncorrected proof. Not for sale.

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A PASSION FOR BREAD Lessons from a Master Baker

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Master Baker Lionel Vatinet shares his knowledge and passion for baking irresistible artisanal bread.

LIONEL VATINET 7 ST E P S TO MA K I N G G R EAT B R EA D

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Cut through the dough

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Continue to divide if needed

Pull corner to center

Continue pulling each corner to center

Press down with heel of hand

Dough seam-side down and smooth-side up

Place hands in triangle shape

Pull dough toward body

Round up the dough, pushing to the right side

Continue in circular motion

Repeat process until the dough is a tight ball

Round, smooth ball sealed on the bottom

Fine, firm skin; fi nished shape

Moved onto couche

Because the dough sits in oil in the bowl, for ciabatta doughs, you do not remove the dough, you do the folds directly in the bowl.

STEP 4: DIVIDING If the recipe calls for the dough to be divided, such as for rolls, be sure to “cut” the dough into the specified quantities. Use a bench scraper to divide the dough into the amounts required in the given recipe. You pierce through the top of the dough completely down to the bottom, moving front to back to avoid tearing the dough. When dough is divided it needs to rest TJ265-3-2013 IMUS 7/LOX5031 A PASSION FOR BREAD W:8”XH:10” 175L 128gsm Chenming M/A Magenta

shaping. Note that many recipes do not call for dividing, in which case you can jump straight from Step 3 to Step 5!

STEP 5: SHAPING Very lightly flour a clean work surface. Uncover the dough and, using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough adheres to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. Holding the palm of your hand flat down, lightly press on the dough. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface. If it is, use your bench scraper to loosen it and, if needed, coat the work surface with another light dusting of flour.

To make the standard ball or boule shape: Pick up a corner of the dough and pull it to the center. Using the heel of your hand, press it down very lightly. Repeat this process, taking care to stretch the dough gently, without pulling and tearing it.

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for a minimum of 10 minutes (directly on the work surface is fine) before

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IT’S TIME TO BAKE

STAINLESS-STEEL-BOWL METHOD

When ready to bake it, score the loaf (see page 00). When scoring a boule, cut no more than 4 slashes across the top. If your dough is particularly shiny, the slashes may stick together a bit. Using a cornmeal-dusted bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal, quickly transfer the shaped dough to the hot baking stone and cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. It should be tall enough to allow the dough to rise comfortably. Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes;

Place loaf on hot baking stone

Cover with stainless-steel bowl and bake

Pop hot bowl up with tip of knife

Remove hot bowl with oven mitts

Continue baking per recipe

then, using the tip of a sharp knife, pop the bowl up and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl and set it aside. Continue to bake the bread at the same temperature for 25 to 30 minutes (or as noted in a specific recipe) or until the bread is deep golden brown with a crisp crust and

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sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.

OTHER METHODS

For the La Cloche, carefully and evenly transfer the dough, top-side up, onto a cornmeal-dusted bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal and slide it into the base or use your hands to gently lift and slide it into the base. Either way, take care that you do not touch the hot surface. Score the top. Then, immediately cover the scored loaf with the wet lid and place the La Cloche in the preheated oven.

Score top of dough

Transfer loaf to bottom of La Cloche

Place lid on for 10 minutes, then remove

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Pain aux Lardons MAKES 2 LOAVES

When I was still a student, I spent a year in Nîmes in southern France, where bread baked with bits of ham or bacon and fresh herbs was a local favorite. It is often served with olives and charcuterie, and perhaps some aged cheese, along with a pre-dinner aperitif. This is my version of the favorite, which is essentially Country French Bread dough made even more delicious with wonderfully aromatic applewood-smoked bacon. I created this recipe for the tenth anniversary of La Farm Bakery, celebrating my French heritage and the wonderful pork products of North Carolina. 16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated bread flour

.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

.24 ounce

7 grams

11⁄8 teaspoons fine sea salt

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water (If hand mixing, 82° to 84°F; if using a stand mixer, 65°F to 70°F.)

80 grams

3

1 gram

11⁄2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme

3 ounces

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.04 ounce

⁄4 cup; about 7 slices chopped, cooked applewood-smoked bacon (see Note) TJ265-3-2013 IMUS 7/LOX5031 A PASSION FOR BREAD W:8”XH:10” 175L 128gsm Chenming M/A Magenta

11.26 ounces

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil for brushing

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MEASURING Organize your ingredients. Place the flour into a large mixing bowl. Add the yeast and salt, making sure that they do not touch each other. If they do, it will cause a reaction that decreases the yeast’s ability to develop.

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MIXING AND KNEADING Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly form a well in the center of the mix. Take the temperature of the water and record it in your Dough Log. Immediately start adding water to the well in a slow, steady stream, rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the water into the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often as you work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper (see page 00), making sure that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough mass. The bowl should be quite clean. The dough will be soft and slightly wet.

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