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Toe curling That’s how Professor Stefan Buczacki describes
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ELEVISION’S flagship gardening programme has been slammed by Garden News columnist Professor Stefan Buczacki who describes parts of the Friday night series as ‘toe curling and simply boring’. He joins scores of GN readers (see our forums at www.liveforgardening.com) who have written and emailed about their dissatisfaction with the new format of Gardeners’ World. The veteran garden expert suggests that the presenters
skills at broadcasting and – Toby Buckland, Carol gardening. They should use Klein, Joe Swift and Alys them to tell the Fowler – must stand researchers and up for what they producer that they must know is right. know what is best. “These people Admittedly, I have aren’t daft; they are been at the all pretty seasoned television game for horticulturists and far longer than the they must surely GW presenters have know the things and perhaps they they are being asked to do are either Stefan Buczacki don’t have the confidence. But there is stupid or irrelevant safety in numbers – they – or both,” he said. should speak with a “I assume and hope they collective voice.” have been put there for their
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‘With the present crew, there is not only no chemistry, they give me the impression they don’t even like each other’ Stefan Buczacki
Stefan spent two periods as a presenter on Gardeners’ World and has taken part in more than 1,000 gardening programmes in all, many from his own garden. Credited with being Britain’s second biggest selling gardening author, Stefan claims Gardeners’ World gets worse every time it has a makeover. “For me, the real rot set in after Alan Titchmarsh left because the programme then ceased to be made in the presenter’s own garden.
April 28 2009 Garden News 3
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PROGRAMME COMES UNDER FIRE
parts of the new-look Gardeners’ World show Percy Thrower had The Magnolias, Arthur Billitt had Clack’s Farm, Geoff Hamitlon had two gardens called Barnsdale and Alan had his own plot which he re-named Barleywood. “This was all sensible because you need to live and breathe your own garden to make it convincing and believable. Now it comes from a field, the presenters are bussed in and full-time gardeners do the work. And what unimaginative wit dreamed up the name
Greenacres for their latest plot?” he asks. Stefan also alleges that Gardeners’ World has for a long time ceased to have any relevance to the weekly needs of real gardeners. “I’m sure Toby Buckland is a pleasant man and I have no doubt he knows his horticulture, but I find the whole ethos of the programme simply boring. A show like Gardeners’ World isn’t simply the work of one presenter. It’s a team whose members should
complement each other and blend together. “There should be on screen chemistry. With the present crew, there is not only no chemistry, they give me the impression they don’t even like each other.” Stefan says that the new veg plot seems to be all raised beds with little relevance for many gardeners and the garden shed is the size of some people’s homes. “The final sequence where the team sit in their palatial shed making forced attempts
at being funny is just toe-curling,” he said. A Gardeners’ World spokesman said: “Stefan Buczacki is entitled to his point of view, but Gardeners’ World remains popular. We felt the programme, which is now in its 42nd year, needed a refresh and Toby Buckland’s arrival as a new presenter seemed the perfect time to do this. We try and ensure that the programme covers a broad range of items but not all items of a magazine show will appeal to all viewers.”
“The programme has become a cross betwee Ground Force andn Blu Peter.” GN reader e Jeff Boyde on Your Letters on page 44
WHAT DO YOU THINK? Are the presenters doing their jobs properly or do you find the new series of Gardeners’ World a complete turn off? We want to know what you think? Mark each presenter out of 10 on the following topics: Toby Carol Buckland Klein
Joe Swift
Alys Fowler
BBC/Sarah Cuttle/Gardeners’ World Magazine
AND BORING
Watch for birds’ ‘quirky’ nest sites GARDENERS are being warned to beware of nesting birds in unexpected places this spring. Bird charity, the RSPB, says it has received reports of nests, eggs and even broods in some very quirky nest sites. Wildlife adviser, Richard James said: “Birds are usually very grateful for the nest sites we provide such as nest boxes and nesting pockets, but there are many that find slightly more unusual places. “We’ve heard it all – pigeons behind satellite
dishes, robins in tool boxes and some birds even get into people’s bedrooms.” The charity says that if you do accidentally disturb a nest, it is important to leave the vicinity of it as soon as possible so the parents can get back to it quickly. If a nest has been exposed, it should be recovered so it appears undisturbed to the birds and is protected from the elements and predators. It’s a criminal offence to intentionally damage a nest. Anyone caught faces a fine or even jail under the 1981 Wildlife and Countryside Act.
Buy new petunia found on Norwegian campsite AN UNUSUAL new variegated trailing petunia found on a Norwegian camp site is now available to UK gardeners. Petunia ‘Pink Ice’ originated as a single variegated shoot on a trailing petunia growing on a campsite in the far north west of Norway. The finder rooted it in the autumn and the plant survived the harsh Norwegian winter with poor light and grew well in the spring. Following successful trials
at a UK development nursery, ‘Pink Ice’ is being launched by online retailer and mail order supplier, Gardening Direct. It’s thought to be the only variegated form of trailing petunia. It’s suitable for containers, hanging baskets and window boxes and will bloom from June to October. Five large plug plants cost £7.99 and will be despatched until mid-May. To order, visit www.gardeningdirect.co.uk or tel: 0844 8846535.
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Gardeners’ World presenters Joe Swift, Toby Buckland and GN columnist Carol Klein
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April 28- May 4
k e e w g in n e d r a g r u o Y The key things you should do over the next seven days containers P13 essentials P6 and 7 Fruit & VEG P9 and 10 spotlight on coleus P12 This week’s tips, ideas and reminders are brought to you by gardening expert Martin Fish. He helps you get borders back into shape and repot brugmansias
Pot on exotic brugmansias If you want to add a tropical feel to your garden during the summer, a large pot-grown brugmansia is ideal. Its lush foliage and large, trumpet-shaped flowers really will make it look more exotic. Brugmansias are not hardy and should be over-wintered undercover. If you keep your plant in a frost-free greenhouse, it will lose its foliage and some of the stems will die back, but it should survive without too many problems as long as you keep the compost just moist. By now, overwintered plants should be starting to make new growth. If the plant has been in the same pot for more that two or three years, it is best to put it into a slightly larger pot. Brugmansia plants are greedy and in order to get them flowering again, you will need to feed them regularly. Repotting now into some fresh compost will give the plant a boost and encourage strong new growth followed by flowers in mid to late summer. Once potted, keep the plant in a greenhouse or conservatory until the danger of frost has passed and keep the compost moist at all times.
1
Remove the rootball from the existing container and pot it into a larger one using compost that contains some loam. This is the best growing medium for plants that live permanently in pots.
Reshape Now is the ideal time to do it
2
Prune out any dead wood and cut the thick stems back to where new growth is sprouting. Brugmansias respond well to hard pruning and quickly start to make new growth.
After moving house recently and taking on a new garden, I want to make a lot of changes. Some of my ideas may take a year or two to complete, but I can do others very quickly to start to put my stamp on the garden. First, I’m altering the shape of a small lawn and
the surrounding border. At the moment the border contains a mixture of plants and there are also lots of gaps, so before I start removing the plants that I don’t want, I’m going to reshape the lawn. Simply altering the outline of a bed or border can really make a big difference to the
look of your garden and it can also make it easier to tend. The lawn edge waved in and out too much, making it difficult to guide the mower around. Now that I’ve made a sweeping curve, the lawn is easier to mow, looks more attractive and the wider border means I can put in more plants.
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April 28 2009 Garden News 7
Other jobs to do...
1
Mark out the new shape of the lawn with a length of rope or hosepipe so that you can clearly see the outline you want.
Lawns Weed Control Lawns are starting to grow fairly fast now and so are broad-leaved weeds. If you have weeds growing in your lawn, start controlling them with a selective lawn weedkiller. At this time of the year, I prefer to use spray which covers the weed leaves in a fine mist. Just a few days after applying, you will see the weeds start to curl and die.
Houseplants 2
Use a half-moon edging iron or spade with a flattish blade to cut through the turf along the new line.
Feed Orchids Orchids in flower will benefit from an occasional liquid feed when watering. You can either use a proprietary orchid fertiliser or any houseplant food at half strength. Feeding while the plants are in flower will help to prolong the flowering period.
Pots and containers
Pinch-out Fuchsias The new shoots on young fuchsia plants can be pinched out to remove the growing points. This encourages more sideshoots to develop and helps to create bushy plants rather than tall, lanky ones.
3
Lift the turf in manageable pieces and, if you have room in the garden, stack the turf to allow it to rot down. If you are planning to re-lay some of the turf, make sure you lift it as evenly as possible.
borders that can sometimes be easier than cutting an awkwardly-shaped lawn, so weigh up the pros and cons. ENow is the ideal time to alter the shape of a border because the soil should still be moist, making it easier to lift the lawn. Any turf that you re-lay will quickly establish before the summer.
tidy phormiums Remove any leaves around the bases of your phormiums which have turned brown over the winter and look untidy. They can be difficult to pull off as they are very tough. It is best to cut them off with sharp secateurs.
Patios and paving Weed Control As the soil warms up, weeds are starting to appear on paths between paving slabs or through gravel. A fast-acting weedkiller based on fatty acids will scorch the weeds off in just a short time.
Tips on reshaping borders EExperiment with different shapes and when you are happy, leave the rope in position for a few hours or overnight to make sure you are happy with the changes. EThink about what you want to plant in the border and ensure it is wide enough for the plants you have in mind. EAlthough border soils need weeding,
Borders
4
If you are using some of the lifted turf to form the new shape, rake and firm the ground and then lay the turf and trim to shape. Remember to water it in to help it re-establish.
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12 Garden News April 28 2009
k e e w g in n e d r a g r u Yo
t h g i l t o sp
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Coleus ‘Walter Turner’ lives up to the old name of flame nettle
ul foliage rf u lo o c r fo t n la p ic st ta A fan
Coleus Nothing beats them for leaf power
F
EW people now use the old name of flame nettle but it is curiously appropriate for coleus. If they had green leaves no one would bother to grow them but because they have amazingly colourful foliage, in every shade of yellow, red, green and almost black, coleus (now known as solenostemon) are the most brilliant foliage plants we can grow. Despite their origin in South East Asia, coleus are well adapted to British summers. They are most often grown as greenhouse plants but are also ideal for sheltered spots outside in the garden and containers. With a profusion of colours, leaf shapes and sizes, coleus add colour and interest throughout summer.
Cuttings or seeds
By far the best coleus are those raised from cuttings. Although cuttings-raised coleus are basically the same as those raised from seed, they do not have quite the same desire to produce flowers so you can better enjoy that fantastic foliage. The spikes of small blue flowers are not unattractive but, when these are allowed
By Geoff Stebbings garden Writer
to develop, the plants give up making new leaves. Seedraised plants are so keen to flower they have a limited life and size. The cuttings-raised plants can be grown into large shrubs and even standard plants, which is not possible if you grow your plants from seed. The cuttings are easy to root, either in summer or in spring from over-wintered plants. The problem is that you have to keep stock plants over the winter – which is not easy. They need a temperature of at least 10C (50F) if they are to survive, something that is generally too expensive to maintain in the greenhouse. The answer is either to keep them on the windowsill inside in winter or to buy new plants each year. This is why seed-raised plants are so popular– they may
be slightly inferior, but they’re perfectly good for using as disposable summer bedding. Any packet of coleus seed will give you a good selection of colours but cheap mixtures will provide a surfeit of largely green and yellow leaves so it is worth buying a good strain or one of the modern types with compact habit and bright leaves. So should you bother with cuttings-raised coleus at all? I would love to say no but the truth is that, no matter how good the seed, the cuttings-raised coleus are superior in leaf colour, shape and habit than any you can grow from seed. The yellow and purple foliage of ‘Pineapple Beauty’ and vibrant ‘Walter Turner’ is so striking and the low habit and small foliage of ‘Wisley Tapestry’ is so useful they are worth searching out and the extra care they need in winter. But whichever way you decide to go, coleus are beautiful plants to decorate your greenhouse or garden in summer.
Try ‘Wizard Pink Coral Sunrise’ (above), ‘Wizard Scarlet’ (yellow-edged red leaves) and ‘Wizard Sunset’ (apricot). Available from Mr Fothergill’s.
Coleus ‘Chocolate Mint’ and ‘Watermelon’ are new varieties that have been in garden centres for a year or so. ‘Chocolate Mint’ has dark chocolate brown leaves with a fresh green edging, while ‘Watermelon’ has leaves with bright scarlet centres surrounded by green. Grow them in pots on the patio for the best results.
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Coleus ‘Walter Turner’ has vibrant leaves in maroon and red with bright lemon-green edges. This variety holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). You can buy it mail order from Dibleys.
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s st ve Be lea ge lar The ‘Kong Series’ of coleus has huge foliage. These are dramatic and look wonderful but put them somewhere sheltered – their leaves are prone to wind damage. Grow ‘Kong Mixed’ from seed (Mr Fothergill’s).
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SIX OF THE BEST COLEUS TO TRY
‘With a profusion of colours, leaf shapes and sizes, coleus add colour and interest throughout summer’
April 28 2009 Garden News 13
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Gardening in
THIS WEEK: peas & Beans
containers There aren’t many vegetables that you can’t make a go of in a container and even peas and beans, which may not seem the likeliest candidates, grow well in pots. Rather than traditional tall-growing varieties opt for dwarf kinds and those specially bred for container growing and you’ll be well away.
Runner beans
Now is the perfect time to sow these tender beans, to give you sturdy little plants for placing outside when the risk of frost has passed. The classic variety for growing in containers is ‘Hestia’, a dwarf runner with large pretty red and white flowers on bushy, compact plants. The runner beans it produces are stringless and tasty. Keep watering during summer to ensure the compost doesn’t dry out – it may have been bred to thrive in a container, but like all runner beans ‘Hestia’ is still a thirsty plant. You can buy ‘Hestia’ seeds from all the big seed companies, but if you want to try another variety, you could give ‘Hammond’s Dwarf Scarlet’ a go. Seeds by Size sell it (tel: 01442 251458; www.seeds-by-size.co.uk).
Runner beans ‘Hestia’
Repotting French beans
French beans
Where to buy them EDibleys, tel: 01978 790677; www.dibleys.com EMr Fothergill’s, tel: 0845 3710518; www.mr-fothergills.co.uk
st ves Be lea rk da ‘Pallisandra’ has large leaves in a dark purple, and is one of the darkest coleus you can grow from seed. Fantastic in a pot with calendula, tagetes or begonias.
Keep them happy The average coleus is a useful plant and, if pinched out regularly to keep it neat and bushy, it’s a perfect partner for all your favourite bedding plants such as marigolds, petunias and phlox. They generally like sun or part shade but will not thrive where it is too dry. They are also good in containers. Sow a mixed packet and you can sort the seedlings into colours when they have produced a few pairs of leaves so you have yellow to put with marigolds and rich reds to go with petunias or white impatiens. Coleus are easily raised from seed sown in March and are a cheap bedding plant
– each becomes a bulky plant so you don’t need many. They are perfect for a ‘tropical’ effect in a small space, as they are much more compact than some other ‘tropical’ plants such as cannas, castor oil plants and bananas. A dwarf canna, some begonias, spider plants and a few coleus will fill a large pot with colour all summer and not break the bank either. They are also good plants to grow to fill the greenhouse in summer, bringing colour to the benches that were filled with seedlings in spring and will be packed with pelargonium and fuchsia cuttings in autumn.
Dwarf French beans have a bushy habit anyway so are ideal for growing in pots. All varieties will do well but to narrow the selection down, I’ve had a lot of success with the yellow-podded ones in recent years (try ‘Orinoco Golden Bean’ or ‘Polka’, both from Mr Fothergill’s). They make really decorative plants in their own right, so won’t put your patio to shame. Climbing French beans can be grown in containers, too, as long as you give them something to climb. A woven obelisk or a wigwam made from canes pushed into the container compost will do the job. Don’t choose vigorous varieties for growing in pots – they probably won’t enjoy being cooped up. Now is also the ideal time to sow them. Put one seed in each module of a large cell tray filled with multi-purpose compost. You’ll have plants ready to be transferred to your container at just the right time – when all risk of frost has passed.
Peas
Dwarf, bushy pea varieties have also been developed by the seed companies and breeders, making it possible to grow them in pots. ‘Half Pint’ was introduced a couple of years ago. At just 30cm-37cm (12-15in) tall, it really is compact and can be grown in containers or even hanging baskets, but you could try any smaller growing pea. Push some twigs into the compost to offer support and go for the varieties such as
‘Meteor’, ‘Twinkle’ or ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ (it’s usually first early varieties that are smaller).
Broad beans
You’re not too late to sow broad beans for this year – they’ll still crop from an April sowing. They will also produce a crop when grown in a pot, even though it won’t be quite as large a crop as one in the ground, but I’ve seen it done and it definitely works! Go for a dwarf variety such as ‘The Sutton’.
Top tips for peas and beans EChoose a large pot for peas and beans – at least 45cm (18in) in diameter. EBecause peas and beans are hungry plants, mixing multi-purpose compost half and half with a loam-based John Innes will give them more nutrients to get their teeth into. You could also try mixing in some fertiliser especially formulated for them, such as Mr Fothergill’s
new Pea and Bean Booster, which you apply when sowing. ERegular watering and constant monitoring to see how the pots are doing is essential. Of all veg, peas and beans dislike drying out the most, and this is more of a risk when container growing. Mixing waterretaining gel into your compost will help.
Carol
s t r e p x e e Th
16 Garden News April 28 2009
top brains ’s g in en d ar g om fr ce vi The best ad Alan Harris grower and judge
bEGONIAs Begonia plants and tubers are expensive to buy so to ensure that precious plants are not lost and to increase stock, you should know at least one propagation method. Although begonias can be raised in large numbers from seed, they do not come true to type and the seedlings often bear only passing resemblance to the parent plants.
‘You should know at least one propagation method’ So we have to use vegetative propagation methods to reproduce the parent plant. This applies to both flowering and foliage begonias although the methods are largely different. The one thing to avoid with all begonia cuttings is rooting powder or liquid because these increase the likelihood of rotting.
Foliage types
Foliage types are usually propagated by leaf cuttings during the summer and there are two common ways in which this is done: EMethod 1: Remove a semimature leaf as close as possible to the plant and insert the stem into a small pot of either seed Foliage compost, begoniavermiculite or a mixture of both. ‘Martin Plant only about 1cm (3⁄8in) Johnson’ deep to minimise the risk of rotting. Keep the cutting shaded in a warm propagator or on a sand bed heated to about 15C (60F). Water carefully to keep the rooting medium just moist. After a few weeks, small plantlets will form at ground level and when they are large enough, separate them carefully to retain a portion of the root system and pot them individually in small pots of seed compost. EMethod 2: Take a mature leaf and make cuts with a sharp knife about every 2cm (3⁄4in)
Cuttings of flowering begonias. Twist them off by hand
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Euphoric There’s one for every garden
Knowing how to propagate will greatly increase your stock Pendula across the main veins which begonias run outwards on the back of the ready forsame time, shorten leaf. At the planting upto inabout a the leaf stem 2cm (3⁄4in) hanging basket as well. Place the leaf cut side down onto a tray of moistened mixture in the same way as the first method and weigh it down with small stones to hold the entire leaf back in contact with the rooting medium. The leaf will often look as though it is dying, but it should eventually produce small plantlets from where the cuts were made, each with its own root system. Pot these on into individual small pots when large enough to handle. Once potted, grow the small plants – they should be adult plants by the autumn.
Flowering types
Flowering types, in particular named varieties, are usually propagated using cuttings taken from either the tuber early in the season (April or May) or from sideshoots on the main stem during summer. It is also possible to use the leaf cutting method (above) but results are very variable with flowering types due to the softer nature of the leaves. The most reliable method is undoubtedly taking cuttings from the adult tuber and, unless you need a large number of new plants, I would not bother with the other two methods, but I will cover them for those who want to try. ETaking cuttings: These are best taken when about 10cm (4in) long with one true leaf. Do not remove them with a knife as this makes damage more likely and increases the risk of tuber
Place the leaves of foliage types cut-side down
Topical tips
EKeep spraying every couple of weeks against mildew using a different spray each time. Stop spraying before the plant has flowered. EPot on to a larger size pot before the plants become pot-bound. EResist the temptation to feed until flowering starts or the leaves will become too large. rotting. Just give them a twist and they will come away cleanly and leave little damage. I find it best not to treat the wound as they dry perfectly well without. Insert the cutting in seed compost mixed with 50 per cent vermiculite or perlite. If you moisten the mixture before you use it, you won’t need to water the cutting – just lightly firm with the fingers. I find they root best in small pots with the cutting inserted against the side of the pot. Water only when necessary to keep the compost just moist and keep shaded but don’t cover as this encourages damping off. Bottom heat is helpful in speeding things up early on, but they will root nearly as quickly standing on the floor under the staging and I prefer to do this with cuttings taken during May. ERooting sideshoots: If you need extra stock the sideshoots can be removed when about the same size as above. It is essential that the small bud where the shoot joins the main stem is retained undamaged, because this is where the growth comes from next spring and if it damaged the cutting may root but will fail to grow next year. Remove the shoot by making a wedge-shaped cut against the main stem, taking care not to cut too deeply into the stem. Root the cuttings in the same but these take longer to root and losses will higher. EFor more on begonias, go to www.national-begoniasociety.co.uk
O
ne family of plants that should be included in every garden, are the euphorbias. They comprise the biggest genus in the world, although the species we can cultivate in our gardens are limited to a mere 150 or so. Their value cannot be overstated. All euphorbias issue a clarion call to the rest of the garden to join in the festivities and celebrate the start of the season. Looking from the bedroom window now, huge beacons of glowing lime-green, the torch-
Evergreen euphorbias are at their best now
like heads of Euphorbia palustris, light the way through our brick garden and down into the ‘hotbeds’ below. They will keep going for month after month, a virtue shared by most members of the family. The majority give a continuous show throughout the growing season, created both by their foliage and their resplendent bracts. Botanically speaking these must now be referred to as cyathium leaves but, whatever their name, they are the crowning glory of garden spurges. Often borne in large heads, each cyathium leaf surrounds a tiny, insignificant flower. As the flowers begin to open and produce pollen, these cyathium leaves start to glow. Presumably this is an advert to attract insects; simultaneously the flowers pump out unexpectedly sweet perfume – a further inducement. One shrub-like spurge, E. mellifera, has honey-scent that drifts through the garden on a warm day. Despite their origins in the Canary Islands, our plants have sailed through this winter’s snow and ice and, though occasional shoots have succumbed and needed removing, the plants are back to their usual sprightly selves. Long after pollination, right
Stems of Euphorbia characias gradually unfold
through to the excitingly explosive broadcast of ripe seeds, the ‘bracts’ of most species continue to glow, fading slowly to a more neutral green. In most cases, at the climax of their display, the ‘bracts’ become vibrant, acid yellow or scintillating lime green and whether they are groundhugging sun-worshippers such as E. myrsinites or robust, chunky bushes like E. palustris, they light up the spring and early summer garden. Exceptionally, one or two have orange bracts, E. griffithii ‘Fireglow’ being the most celebrated example. But the lighting effects are just as brilliant. Most of our best spurges are herbaceous, dying down as winter begins to bite but, as temperatures tumble, many take on a kaleidoscopic array of orange, red and golden tints.
One for every site
In their native habitats, each has evolved to succeed in specific conditions so whatever your soil and site there are euphorbias to suit. One of the most ubiquitous is E. characias or E. wulfenii. These are variations on a theme and there are numerous named selections propagated vegetatively to maintain their special characteristics – E. characias wulfenii ‘Purple and Gold’ speaks for itself and E. characias ‘Portuguese Velvet’ has soft, silvery leaves. All are statuesque evergreens whose taller stems gradually unfold their shepherd’s crooks until the stems face upwards, unfolding great, golden heads of flower. They are the most dramatic plants of this time of year. As the month progresses, the garden becomes brighter thanks to their glowing bracts. This is a magnificent Mediterranean spurge that loves a sunny spot. Since it is evergreen and often grows more than 1m (3ft) high, it can be used to make a prominent focal point. As a starting point, two
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about euphorbias ‘The majority of euphorbias give a continuous show during the growing season’
Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’
Euphorbia myrsinites
Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’
Euphorbia palustris will light up early summer of the most versatile spurges, coping with sun or shade and thriving in a variety of soils are E. polychroma, 60cm (2ft), a deciduous species with vivid yellow bracts and E. martini, a handsome hybrid between our native wood spurge and the mediterranean E. characias, an evergreen with red stems and eyes. Because of its parentage, it is suitable for both sunny and shady
sites. It is one of the most characterful spurges standing about 60cm (2ft) high with dark crimson foliage and heads of brilliant lime-green flowers with red eyes. The subspecies, E. amygdaloides robbiae, has a different habit, running around freely and is an excellent ground-cover plant for a difficult site. Our native wood spurge
E. amygdaloides can often be seen emblazoning hedges and road verges up and down the countryside. There are commercial selections. several have dark, rich red foliage, and once you have them established, plants often set seed and produce small colonies. They look at home with so many other woodlanders and combine faultlessly with
flowers and grasses that are at their best now. Try them in an awkward spot close to a hedge or fence with native bluebells or purple honesty. Purple and lime-green are always mutually enhancing.
Sun-lovers
In full sun and poor soil, E. myrsinites looks pukka all year. Although it doesn’t
flower until early spring, it spends the winter spreading out its long prostrate stems, its spiky, glaucous leaves arranged in close whorls. This is a fine plant for the top of a wall or a sloping site in full sun where it can spread out its tentacles. Try it alongside a yellow auricula such as ‘Old Mustard’ with stipa tenuissima, eryngiums and sedums.
The truth of the matter is that euphorbias are easy to use – they look good with practically everything and they are easy to grow. Providing you choose a species that will enjoy the conditions your garden can provide, there are endless possibilities to indulge your creativity – surely that is the most exciting part of gardening.
24 Garden News April 28 2009
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NEW SERIES If you have a passion for growing your own, this is the series for you. Pam Richardson reveals how to cope with pests waiting to scupper your crops
S
pring is just the best time of year for a gardener. Nothing beats the sight of a freshly raked patch of earth ready for this year’s crops. A new vegetable plot holds all the promise of a fruitful harvest; happy hours tilling, weeding and nurturing crops that are finally picked and enjoyed at the peak of freshness. If this sounds like an idyll, well of course it is… that’s the magic of gardening, but we can live up to this perfect plot much better if we prepare for a few stark realities! We can’t just ‘sow and forget’, it will take some planning and there will be pests waiting to scupper the crop, but we can beat almost all of them with some vigilance and preparation. Cultivate your plot thoroughly, choose crops that suit your soil and feed and water them properly. Get rid of debris and diseased plants. Healthy soil and healthy plants can often resist the first signs of disease or aphid attack. Stay vigilant – once a problem is spotted act fast to stop it getting out of control.
Make growing trouble-free
Know your enemies and how to guard agai Prepare
Prepare for the pests that are common in your area. In rural Britain, deer and rabbits can be real pests, the novelty of them in a garden soon wears thin when they have eaten crops to stumps. Mice and pigeons love peas and beans and seem to have radar when it comes to finding them. Even the neighbourhood cats can be a menace scratching up seedlings on bare ground. All birds and many mammals find fruit irresistible but it’s possible to protect most crops from attack without resorting to harsh solutions!
Protect
Physical barriers work well against larger mammals and hungry birds. Chicken wire may look unattractive but made into tall fences and buried a few inches deep into the soil
Protect with chicken wire
Pick off caterpillars
Watch out for diseases
around crops, it works to deter rabbits and deer. Fruit cages are expensive, but well worth it if you have a lot of fruit bushes. On a small scale even a covering of netting over a single bush or tree will protect vulnerable fruit. Cloches are a good choice for leafy crops.
Lay twiggy prunings on bare soil to deter cats.
On wet soils or areas with stone walls, slugs and snails are a particular problem. Snails live in garden walls, emerging at night to wreak havoc. Get out with a torch and pick them off before they feast! If you value your evenings in, use pellets or beer traps. The new slug pellets on the
Persevere
Don’t ignore small infestation. If you do, pests can eat and disfigure plants and some pests help to spread disease. Caterpillars have voracious appetites so pick them off leaves.
April 28 2009 Garden News 25
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Fighting pests the organic way Organic methods are here to stay and there are proven remedies and compelling arguments for using them. EEncourage ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies into the plot to control aphid numbers. Deprived of access to your fruit bushes the birds will make short work of aphids, cutworms and wireworm! Bring these pests to the surface as you cultivate new ground. EHide crops from pests by sowing them in small groups rather than large blocks. This works where food crops share space with ornamentals but the principle works well with crops such as cabbage and carrots too. EFool the carrot root fly into avoiding your crop by surrounding plants with a 60cm (2ft) high barrier. Sow thinly and destroy thinnings or avoid the problem by sowing carrots after late spring or harvest before late summer. Sow varieties such as ‘Resistafly’ carrots from Mr Fothergill’s or ‘Flyaway’ from Thompson & Morgan.
EGrow disease resistant vegetable varieties on offer from all the seed companies to beat pests and disease. Blight resistant strains of potato such as ‘Sarpo’ are not immune to blight, but they are slow to succumb. ETry ‘Kilaton’ cabbages or ‘Clapton’ cauliflowers for club-root resistant brassicas. EPick juicy growing tips off crops such as broad beans to deter blackfly. Grow nasturtiums or leave a nettle patch to attract caterpillars away from food crops. ENematodes are a useful deterrent against a number of pests such a s caterpillars, slugs and snails, chafer beetles, vine weevils and even to move ants away from specific areas. Water them onto the soil as instructed. EPass a greased board just above any plants infested with flea beetle, the beetles jump up and get caught or try soap sprays containing fatty acids to control aphids, keep repeating applications for the most effect.
Use nematodes to deter a number of pests
Use barriers to protect from carrot root fly
Home-made bird scarers
Disease-resistant potatoes
Pick tips off your beans to deter blackfly
Feed the soil
Why crop rotation is so important
inst them market are no longer a threat to other wildlife although all should be kept away from water and fish in ponds, and you must follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Predict
Diseases such as blight and mildew can sometimes be predicted by the weather. If it is rainy the spores of fungal diseases are splashed onto crops by rain and spread fast. Hot summers bring aphids and powdery mildew caused by dry soil; humid conditions and poor air circulation bring rusts and fungal diseases. Pest attacks can also occur at specific times in the growing season, so growing early and late crops and protecting with barriers all help to deter seasonal pests.
Healthy plants have the best chance of repelling pest and disease attack. Feed the soil with organic matter from home-made compost and well-rotted manure to hold nutrients and water. Use a general fertiliser such as Growmore before sowing crops and mulch soil well afterwards to avoid competition from weeds. Nitrogen feeds are good for leafy crops; high potassium feeds encourage flowers and fruit. Blood, fish and bone give roots the boost they need. Don’t feed stressed plants in dry soil; the roots won’t be able to take up the nutrients. Water plants and spray the leaves with a foliar feed, a weak solution of a seaweed feed such as Maxicrop is a good remedy for ailing plants. Liming acid soils helps to avoid club root.
Rotation sounds like a complicated idea, but it’s little more than a common sense solution to avoiding pests and disease. If the same crop is grown in the same soil for too long soil pests and diseases build up. By moving crops around, the soil has a chance to recover and different nutrients are replaced. A simple method divides plots into three. EIn the first year grow root crops on plot 1, peas and beans on plot 2, brassicas on plot 3. EIn the second year move peas and beans to plot 1 brassicas to plot 2, root crops to plot 3. EIn the third year brassicas go to plot 1, root crops are in plot 2, peas and beans are in plot 3. EStart from the beginning again in year 4. Every year, add organic matter (not manure) to the root crops, manure to the peas and beans and lime (on acid soils) for the brassicas. Salad crops, tomatoes and squash can be fitted in anywhere.
Spot a spud and win £50 TO CELEBRATE our Just Grow It! series – dedicated to helping you grow fruit and veg – we’re giving you the chance to win £50 in cash. All you have to do is spot the image of our spud on one of the pages of this issue of Garden News. Once you’ve found it, fill out the coupon below and post it to the following address: Spot the Spud Competition 3, PO Box 57, Coates, Peterborough PE7 2FE. You can also enter online at www.greatcompetitions.co.uk We’ll pick a winner at random from the correct entries. All entries must reach us before the closing date – May 7 2009.
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36 Garden News April 28 2009
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k e e w e h t
, Northants on tt ra p S of y, d ar Y e in Dennis and Christ
Full of variety and surprises A
s you turn up the long drive that leads from the main road up to Spratton Grange Farm, you catch tantalising glimpses of this charming rural garden. Set in an elevated position and with superb views of the Northamptonshire countryside, this established two-acre garden has enough variety and surprise to keep visitors occupied for hours. It’s the work of owners Dennis and Christine Yardy, who moved to the property 12 years ago and immediately set about creating the garden out of what was previously a plain lawn and conifer beds wrapped around the imposing house and former farmyard. Dennis and Christine are keen to stress that they’re not really gardeners but anyone visiting Spratton Grange Farm would have to disagree. Retirement has given them time to plan and create the garden as it appears today, but they are happy to admit that they have made their fair share of mistakes when it come to planting, and there’s been plenty of trial and error. Dennis and Christine have clearly worked hard to create a garden that is a happy mix of the formal and informal, with one area leading into the next and all complemented by lovely rural views. Work on the garden began close to the house where formal walled gardens, courtyard and parterre garden have all been created out of the former farmyard. All are
Dennis and Christine Yardy beautifully planted and maintained. Deep mixed borders wrap around the house, with a mix of evergreen shrubs and herbaceous perennials providing colour and interest throughout the year. Spotted laurel and choisya create a soft contrast to the warm brickwork of the farmhouse, while purple bergenia and heuchera spill over the front of the border onto the snaking brick path. In the courtyard, a rather grand fountain acts as a formal centrepiece, while a pair of
See the garden in 2009 EDennis and Christine Yardy’s garden is at Spratton Grange Farm, Spratton, Northants NN6 8HL. EIt is one of a group of gardens in Spratton which open for the National Gardens Scheme on Sunday May 10 (noon-5pm). ECombined admission £4, children free. ERefreshments at St Andrews Church nearby.
matching stone statues stand like bookends at either end of a mature evergreen shrub border. Conifers, viburnum, ivy and tree heath have all established well to create a simple, low-maintenance but attractive planting scheme. At one end of the house is a formal, symmetrically laid-out garden where Dennis and Christine have combined lavender, sedum and other low-growing plants with gravel, brickwork and paving to create a tapestry effect. This layout works to draw the eye through the garden and out into the open fields beyond. At the other end of the house, Dennis and Christine have used the old brick walls of the farmyard to create a classical walled parterre garden which was the first area to be developed. They have followed the traditions of symmetry and geometry to lay out dwarf box hedging, creating planting beds full of ornamental shrubs, perennials and bright spring bulbs. The parterre garden also contains a lovely Victorianstyle brick and glass greenhouse and is dotted with decorative terracotta pots of tulips and clipped box. From the parterre garden it’s possible to see through to the large lawn which slopes down and away from the house towards the more relaxed and naturalistic areas of the garden. To one side of the lawn sits a pretty summerhouse which has been partially hidden by a row of upright golden conifers to create an air of privacy. Christine admits that the summerhouse was their solution to a problem area that contained conifers and a large rabbit warren, one of the hazards of gardening in the countryside. In fact, rabbits, badgers and foxes have all caused problems in the garden over the years but Dennis and Christine have learned to live with them. Across the lawn from the
Time to relax
A summer house is the perfect place to sit and enjoy the garden, whatever the weather.
What we think By Jackie Whittaker garden Writer
EDennis and Christine had a clear vision of the garden they wanted and have used existing structures and features to maximum effect to create well-defined areas. EHaving the luxury of a country setting can also have its drawbacks if local wildlife takes a liking to your garden, but Dennis and Christine have learned to live with a little disturbance.
summerhouse, the couple have enlarged and developed the naturally-fed pond that was one of the few features that already existed when they moved in, although it was overgrown and choked. They have enhanced the natural waterfall with local stone and built a gently rugged rustic bridge. A pair of rusted metal herons placed by the water’s edge completes the natural-looking scene. The pond is flanked by a well-stocked bog garden, but heavy clay has made this one of the harder parts of the garden to work on. Indeed Dennis and Christine lost a number of plants to the tough conditions before finding a combination that worked. The couple have also used
the natural slope of the garden to create a large rockery of natural stone and gravel from what was once part of the lawn. This is planted with a range of primulas, alpines and spring-flowering perennials along with dwarf conifers and low-growing evergreen shrubs. Beyond the pond and rockery is a small spinney of mature native trees underplanted with spring bulbs which is a natural haven for wildlife and acts as a link between the garden and countryside beyond. Having spent the last 12 years creating the garden, Dennis and Christine are more than happy with what they have achieved and are looking forward to watching it mature over the next few years.
Decorative terracotta pots make a great feature
April 28 2009 Garden News 37
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Define boundaries
Use contrasting materials to define a route through the garden.
Natural features Use local stone for a natural looking rockery.
Early colour
Alpines and spring bulbs combine well in the rockery.
ideas to steal FOR YOUR GARDEN make a rockery
EA sloping area in the garden is an ideal place to create a rockery, using a mixture of gravel and stone for a naturalistic effect. Planting with alpines, perennials and low-growing evergreens provides year-round interest.
borrow a view
EBorrow a view if you’re lucky to have one like this. By clever planting and landscaping you can blur the boundary between your garden and the landscape beyond, making the most of countryside views and giving the impression that the garden is bigger than it really is.
Put your garden pictures online EYou can put pictures of your gardens online at our great new gardening website, www. liveforgardening.com
Next week Great spring colour in Northants
s n o i t s e u your q
42 Garden News April 28 2009
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When to take fleece off fern
Q
We’ve planted an Australian tree fern in a half barrel and covered it with a big fleece bag over winter. Not all the leaves have died off and I’d like to know when it is safe to remove the fleece. When should I start feeding? Susan Jameson, Westgate on Sea, Kent.
A
If you leave the fleece in place for too long, there is a risk that the growing point of the fern will be coaxed into precocious growth which is then at greater risk to deep frost than a hardened plant would have been. But if you take the covers off too soon, a sudden cold snap could ruin the plant as well! Dicksonia antarctica is the toughest of the tree ferns, and it should be safe to remove the fleece in mid-April, particularly if you live in a
reasonably mild, coastal region. Be ready, however, to rig up temporary protection if the weather should turn unseasonably cold. And keep the fern out of the wind! A cold breeze can be almost as damaging as a touch of frost. Don’t be in too much of a hurry to feed and take care never to over-feed. If the fern was planted in good compost, there will be plenty of residual nutrient to get it started off. Once the fronds are beginning to develop, apply a high-nitrogen liquid fertiliser at half the recommended dilution once a month.
Be ready to protect new fronds from frost
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Make sure daffodils are planted deep enough
Daffodils just did not appear
Q
I bought some daffodils – ‘Tamara’ and ‘Churchill’ – in mid-December last year, planting them 5cm (2in) deep. They didn’t come up. Can you explain why? David Hind, By email.
A
December is getting pretty late to buy daffodil bulbs. Although they have a long shelf life, they will have been lifted in late summer and may have sat around in the garden centre or shop for months. Although some bulbs are probably fine, it is usually wiser to buy in September or October and plant the bulbs straight away. When planting daffodils or tulips make sure there is at least 10cm (4in) of soil above the top of the bulb. Daffodils dislike becoming too dry and can often come up ‘blind’ in springs which follow a dry preceding year. Deep planting ensures a cooler, more moist summer for the bulbs. To get the varieties you want in fresh condition, you could buy bulbs by mail order. Order early to make sure you get your chosen varieties.
Question of the week
Grow a rose in a tree Q
I want to grow a rambling rose into an ancient tree in our cottage garden. How far from the trunk should I site it? Can you give me any other tips? Mr J E Preston, Nantwich, Cheshire.
A
This is a charming idea and will make some enchanting summer displays in future years. Most people make the mistake of planting the rose too close to the tree trunk where it struggles for years in dense shade and poor soil. To make sure it establishes rapidly, plant the rose at least 1.5m (5ft) from the trunk. Better still, plant it near the tree’s drip-line just below the outer -most branches. Place a temporary post or stout cane, near the plant so the new stems can be guided into the canopy of the tree. That way, the rose will have plenty of daylight and will develop much more quickly. If you plant the rose on the north side of the tree, the stems will grow through the crown towards the south. To avoid competition from the tree, dig a much larger planting hole than is necessary, chopping out any tree roots. Back-fill with a mix of good soil and potting compost, before planting the rose.
Be drastic with overgrown forsythia A
This is the perfect time for pruning forsythias, flowering currants and most other spring shrubs whose flowers are done. Normally, you would simply remove spent flowering stems to encourage new leads, but with an overgrown shrub you can afford to take more extreme action. For best results, cut the
whole lot down to stumps no more than 1m (3ft 3in) high. Forsythias are gawky things at the best of times so a harsh pruning like this can be repeated every three or four years without doing the plant any lasting harm. Don’t spare the axe! You will be rewarded with a dense mass of vigorous, healthy shoots which will mature this summer to flower next spring. If your soil is fertile and too many of these new stems develop, you can thin some of them out in early summer to allow the remainder to flower more freely.
BarnsdaLE GARDENS
Q
Our forsythia has grown very tall and untidy. I don’t want to lose it, but can’t cope with it flopping over. What do you suggest. Jane Goodrich, Somerset, by email.
Tip of the week House and sand martins are already here, swallows will come any day and swifts will arrive in early May. All these birds – particularly swifts – are short of nesting sites so if you have any work being done such as insulation or repairs, on your roof or eaves, be sure to retain any nesting crevices. The birds do no harm but consume a lot of insects, including pests.
For more Q&As Now’s the time to prune forsythia – as hard as you like!
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Hyacinths grow better in compost or
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April 28 2009 Garden News 43
Clematis dilemma may call for a compromise Q
Please settle a difference of opinion. My wife heard Alan Titchmarsh recommend growing a clematis into a tree and trained one into a 30-year-old apple by my vegetable plot but now the dense growth results in low light and leggy vegetables. Mr A Dean, Granborough, Bucks.
A
I wouldn’t dream of disagreeing with Mrs Dean or Alan, particularly since I love growing clematis – and other climbers – through trees, but I have a couple of reservations. If the apple is that old but less than 4m (12ft) high, it has only moderate vigour. The clematis, if it has smothered part of the tree, is probably a vigorous variety such as C. montana. So although your wife’s
idea was excellent, her choice of variety may be questionable. I suggest a compromise. If the clematis is rampant, prune it hard after flowering and thin out some of the young stems before they engulf too much of the tree. If the climber still proves difficult to control, perhaps you should replace it. Late-flowering clematis are good for this. Yellowflowered Clematis tangutica and its relatives are excellent and follow their summer flowers with fluffy seed-heads. With varieties of C. viticella, you can enjoy the full colour range. Both groups flower in the second half of the year and can be pruned almost to the ground, each winter, but will climb back into the tree without swamping it.
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Which carrot resists the fly?
Q
Which is the most carrot fly-resistant variety of carrot? Bill Russell, By email.
A Enjoy violas while they last, but don’t transplant them
Can I transplant winter violas?
Q ‘Plant the rose on the north side of the tree, the stems will grow through the crown towards the south’
Grow vigorous Clematis montana through a large, robust tree
Tiger spectacle is soon over
Q
I thought of trying Mexican Tiger flowers this summer. Do you recommend them? Joyce Edwards Epsom, Surrey.
A
These beauties, scientifically named Tigridia pavonia, have elegant blooms which look a
bit like big, floppy irises. Their colours are bright – yellows and reds – and the late summer flowers certainly are spectacular, but they tend to be weekend wonders and are soon over. Plant them in groups, in free-draining soil in a sunny spot.
Summer bulbs don’t like water treatment Q
I grew hyacinths in water, in a vase, this spring and wonder whether I can plant the bulbs outside. Also, are there any summer bulbs which can be grown this way? Georgina Ford, Kings Lynn, Norfolk.
A
bulb fibre
The tradition of growing hyacinths in a water glass goes back a long way and can be surprisingly successful. The skill is in keeping the water fresh and sweet, and preventing bulbs from coming into direct contact with the water for too long, and rotting.
But it’s a rather unnatural way to do it. Why not try hyacinths in a pot, next year, in soil-less compost or bulb fibre? The results are always better, with nicely developed foliage as well as flowers, and with the bulbs deriving mineral nutrients from the growing medium. You can plant hyacinth bulbs outdoors, when the flowers are finished. They will come up to bloom year after year. Summer bulbs and corms do not like the water treatment since most need dry, freedraining conditions.
My winter violas are still going strong, but I need to clear them out of my patio pots ready for the summer plants. Could they be transplanted? Mrs F Swainson, Poole, Dorset.
I’ve grown ‘Flyaway’ many times, always with excellent results. Thompson & Morgan also recommend ‘Resistafly’ as a maincrop variety. In future you can also dodge the fly by sowing Nantes varieties from late February in cold frames or under cloches and, to an extent, by sowing winter crops in late summer.
Propagating doronicums
Q
My mother has a big patch of yellow doronicum daisies in her garden and has promised me some. How are they best propagated? Jean Meadows, Saffron Walden, Essex.
A
A
Ageing pansy and viola plants don’t transplant very well, but why hurry? Summer plants don’t need to be in place before late May or early June. Select your summer bedding, now, but keep it in a sheltered corner or frame for hardening off while you enjoy the lovely violas for a few more weeks.
Lift clumps of doronicum in spring or autumn
Dodge carrot fly by sowing resistant varieties
Leopardsbane, Doronicum columnae, and its close relative D. orientale are especially valuable as perennials since they flower in spring. You can lift clumps and divide them in autumn or early spring before the flowers are out. They will also grow readily from seed.
Battle to rid soil of periwinkle Q
How can I get rid of periwinkle? I’m losing the battle against it. Margaret, Peterlee, Co. Durham.
A
Periwinkle makes enchanting ground cover, suppressing weeds and forming dense mats of evergreen vegetation. Most flower freely for long periods. Like fire, however, they make excellent servants but terrible masters! The only way to eradicate periwinkle is to dig out the roots – all of them – by hand. It is a slow and backbreaking task, but you can reduce the quantity and strength of the
Vinca make great ground cover but can be invasive stems and roots before you begin to dig. Start by cutting off all the top growth. Then, when the flush of new shoots emerges, spray with glyphosate (Roundup). They
will die but more may come up from the ground and will need the same treatment. Once the second flush is dead, you can begin to dig out the stragglers. Repeat until the plant is gone.