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Grow Your Own special / Garden News 29
Your Own special
8 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg www.liveforgardening.com
Inside
rSummer salads
of you free grow your own guide
rGrow tomatoes
32
Nothing beats the taste of a sun-warmed tomato picked straight from the vine. Aubergines and peppers are grown in the same way - find out how.
rRoot vegetables
34
The backbone of many great recipes, easy root veg such as potatoes, carrots and onions are a must-have on all veg plots.
rMoney-saving offers
36
Great offers from Thompson & Morgan, with free strawberry plants for every reader and money-saving deals on top grow-your-own kit.
GardenNews
Part 2r
30
The easiest fruit and veg to get started with strawberries and salad leaves. Grow these quick and simple crops for delicious home-grown treats all summer long.
30 Garden News / Grow Your Own special
Grow Your Own special / Part 2
8 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg
Simple
starters
Easy to grow
Just keep your salad crops weed free and well watered
rLettucerSalad leavesrLeafy vegetables for saladsrStrawberries
S
alad vegetables are some of the easiest crops to grow and are a great way of introducing yourself to veg growing. Things have come a long way since the days of the traditional butterhead lettuce.
There’s now a huge choice of lettuces and salad leaves available to the home gardener including oriental varieties, leafy veg and varieties you can grow and harvest all year round. Salad leaves are ideal for containers, window-boxes and
What to grow
Traditional lettuce
r There are two main types of lettuce, ones that form firm hearts, and others that are loose leaved, without a firm centre. All are easy
Salad leaves
r Salad leaves are easy to grow, needing little fertiliser and are perfect for harvesting early as young leaves. This makes them less prone to pests and less likely to bolt, as maturity is delayed by constant picking. Growing specially selected salad leaf seed mixes is so much cheaper than buying them bagged from the supermarket and far tastier when picked straight from the garden.
growing bags too, so you don’t need an allotment or large garden to grow them. Sowings can be made undercover now and the first leaves of the season will be harvested in weeks.
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Did you know? Salad leaves are a good source of calcium and iron
to grow, so what you choose is down to personal preference. ‘Crisphead’ are crunchy lettuce with crisp compact leaves that form a tight head with a very mild flavour. They need lots of water and fertilizer and so are more labour intensive to grow than other salad leaves. ‘Cos’/‘Romaine’ have long upright leaves that form a cylindrical head. Leaves are generally green with thick, crisp, juicy ribs. Outer leaves are darker, while inner ones are blanched yellowish white. Like crisphead lettuce, they take longer to mature than other salad leaves. ‘Butterhead’ have soft leaves that form a loose head. Leaves can be green, red and bronze depending on the variety with a soft buttery texture and a sweet flavour.
Why not try: Rocket - a strong flavoured, spicy salad leaf, with an almost peppery taste, which will really give salads an extra kick. Corn salad – also called lambs lettuce, this is a mild tasting, soft textured salad leaf. Sow in late summer for a winter salad crop. Land cress – a tasty substitute for watercress, grows quickly and is useful for winter salad leaves. Sorrel – adds colour, texture and a sharp flavour to salads when harvested as young leaves.
Leafy veg r Many leafy vegetables are also perfect for using in salads if the leaves are harvested young. Try the baby leaves of beetroot, radish or young pea shoots. Spinach is a useful leafy veg that can be harvested as a cut and come again salad leaf. It grows rapidly in summer and can be harvested regularly. Young leaves are crunchy and flavoursome and packed with iron. Chard will add colour and flavour to salads. It’s tough,
tolerant and disease resistant. Taste-wise it resembles mellow spinach. Pak choi, strictly speaking a brassica, is a heavy cropping oriental veg. Young leaves are fresh and succulent with a mild flavour and make an unusual cut and come again crop. Mizuna – another decorative oriental leaf with glossy, serrated leaves and mustard-like flavour. Mizuna responds well to constant cutting.
Grow Your Own special / Garden News 31
Part 2r
of you free grow your own guide
How to grow
1
rRecipe/ Pear, Stilton and Walnut salad
All salad crops are best sown little and often. Most of them grow and mature so quickly that it’s easy to end up with a glut of lettuce, ready to harvest at the same time. If left too long, lettuce and salad leaves will bolt. Choose your crops carefully and sow little and often and you could be harvesting and enjoying salads all year round.
Pear, Stilton and Walnut Salad Feeds 2
Ingredients
Perpetual crops outdoors, cover the soil with cloches to warm it up. For summer crops, sow from mid spring onwards. For autumn and winter salads, sow late summer to mid autumn. Cover early and late sowings with cloches to protect against frost. Sow seed in drills. Keep crops well watered and weed-free and they should start producing leaves in a matter of weeks.
In containers
5
Salad crops are ideal for container growing. They don’t need a massive container to do well and can be positioned somewhere convenient to harvest. Salad leaves don’t need the depth of soil that other crops do, which makes them perfect for window boxes and patio pots. Plants grown in containers will eventually become exhausted, but sowing a second batch of leaves in modules when you plant up the containers will allow you to replace them when necessary.
What to do next r Dry fry the walnut pieces in a small frying pan until toasted. Leave to cool. r Make the salad dressing by combining mustard, vinegar, oil, caster sugar and salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisking well. Add the thinly sliced onion to the dressing and mix well. r Quarter and thinly slice the pear and add to the bowl, coating with the dressing to stop the pear discolouring. r Add the salad leaves, cooled walnuts and crumbled Stilton and toss everything together gently. r Serve immediately.
Strawberries r Strawberries must be the tastiest crop you can grow in beds and containers. There are lots of varieties to choose from and young plants will give you a crop in next to no time. If you want strawberries
throughout the summer, choose an ‘everbearer’ for the longest cropping season, from June to October. They’re also perfect for hanging baskets and containers if you don’t have space in the garden.
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How to grow
Did you know?
rFive steps to success with strawberries
Feed strawberries with seaweed fertiliser for a good crop
Successional sowing
3
Constant cutting of salad leaves will eventually exhaust them. To have a constant supply you need to sow little and often. Make new sowings outdoors every three weeks throughout spring and summer .
In the ground
4
All salad crops prefer well drained, humus rich, well prepared soil. Before sowing
1
Plant young strawberry plants and bare root runners now in a sunny spot in fertile, well drained soil. Don’t plant too deeply or they will rot. Water in well and keep watering regularly.
2
Alternatively, plant in containers of multi-purpose compost, water well and stand in an unheated greenhouse or sheltered spot outside. Keep well watered as containers can dry out quickly.
3
Once fruit starts to form, spread straw or strawberry mats around the plants to protect them from rain splash, slugs and snails. Net your plants to stop birds getting to your strawberries before you do.
4
Keep an eye out for slugs and snails and check developing fruit regularly for mould.
5
After fruiting, prune off all old fruit stems, leaves and runners and feed with a general purpose fertiliser.
GardenNews
2
Many salads don’t have to be left to grow and mature before harvesting, but can be treated as “cut and come again” crops. Loose leaf lettuce, oriental mizuna and perpetual spinach can all be harvested a few leaves at a time, and it should be possible to get several flushes of growth from each sowing. Harvesting when young also means that plants can be grown more closely together, making them suitable for the smallest of plots.
1 large desert pear 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced 75g (2.5oz) Stilton cheese, crumbled into bite-sized pieces Selection of salad leaves 25g (3/4oz) walnut pieces ¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon walnut or olive oil Small pinch of caster sugar Pinch of salt and pepper
32 Garden News / Grow Your Own special
Grow Your Own special / Part 2
8 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg
Grow tomatoes
rChoosing varieties rHow to grow rCommon problems rAubergines and peppers
O
There’s a huge choice of varieties available, from small, intensely sweet cherry types to huge beefsteak toms, so make your choice and give growing tomatoes a go this summer.
nce you’ve enjoyed homegrown tomatoes picked straight from the vine, you’ll never want to eat shop-bought ones again.
Terry’s Tip
“Plant marigolds in your greenhouse alongside your tomatoes to deter aphids and whitefly” Tasty Toms
Terry Walton
What to grow r Tomato plants grow as either bushes or cordons. Cordons have a main stem which grows vertically (until you pinch out the top to stop it) while bush types grow with lots of sideshoots rather than a single main stem. Some bush tomatoes are described as ‘tumblers’ as these have lots of trailing stems that look good grown in pots or hanging baskets. Cordons develop a succession of fruiting trusses as the main stem grows vertically, meaning that they generally fruit for longer. The fruiting trusses of bush tomatoes all tend to develop together, producing their crop over a shorter period of time.
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Varieties to try
Packed with nutrients, tomatoes are easy to grow and taste best when freshly picked
Did you know?
There are more than 10,000 varieties of tomatoes
r‘Gardener’s
r‘Maskotka’
r‘Tigarella’
r‘Ailsa Craig’
r‘Tumbling
rA cordon variety producing long trusses of small, sweet cherry tomatoes.
rA bush variety perfect for growing in containers and hanging baskets.
rAnother cordon variety producing lots of red, striped, well-flavoured tomatoes.
rA traditional cordon variety producing lots of highly flavoured bright red fruit.
rIdeal for baskets and containers from which heavy crops will gently crumble.
Delight’
tomato
tomato
tomato
Tom’
Grow Your Own special / Garden News 33
Part 2r
Where to grow r You can grow tomatoes in the greenhouse or outdoors (either in containers or in the ground) but it’s important to select the right variety. Greenhouse varieties will generally fruit earlier and longer than outdoor types. If you have the space, try growing some in the greenhouse and some outside.
How to grow r Whatever variety of tomatoes you choose, they all need starting off under cover. Sow seed from mid February to early March for greenhouse varieties or mid to late March for outdoor types. But don’t sow too early otherwise you’ll end up with young plants ready to grow outside when it’s too early to plant.
Common problems r Tomato plants are sensitive to heat, humidity and moisture levels. In the greenhouse high temperatures can cause fruit to split and develop hard, scorched patches so make sure you introduce some shade and damp down regularly. Whitefly, aphids and red spider mite are also common greenhouse problems so try using biological controls such as parasitic wasps or yellow sticky traps. Blight can attack outdoor crops causing leaves, stems and fruit to turn black and die. If you catch it early you can save plants by removing and destroying infected leaves. Some tomato varieties have been bred to resist blight.
rStep by step
1
Sow seed thinly in pots or trays of multi-purpose compost and cover with vermiculite or sieved compost. Stand in a heated greenhouse or propagator, or indoors. Seed should germinate in a couple of weeks.
2
Prick out seedlings into 8cm (3in) pots when two true leaves have formed, taking care not to handle the stems as the seedlings will wither. You’ll probably have more plants than you need so don’t feel guilty about discarding any weak ones.
3
Pot on into the final position, inside or out, once flower buds appear, plants are sturdy and about 15cm (6in) tall – usually around the end of April-May for greenhouse tomatoes, which can go into the border soil, growing bags or pots.
4
Tomatoes grown outside need a sunny sheltered spot to thrive, whether growing directly into the soil or in growing bags or containers of potting compost. Take care not to plant outside until after the last frost (usually mid-end May).
5
Bush tomatoes don’t usually need any support but cordons need staking and tying in regularly. Remove the side shoots on cordon tomatoes as they appear and pinch out the growing tip when about five fruiting trusses have developed.
6
Feed weekly with a high-potash liquid or soluble tomato food and water daily. It’s particularly important to water consistently as irregular watering can lead to blossom end rot or cause the fruit to split and spoil.
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Did you know?
Aubergines are known as eggplants because older varieties had white egg-shaped fruits
Aubergines r Aubergines are related to tomatoes and are equally rewarding to grow, although you do need reliable and prolonged warmth to produce a decent crop. They’re best grown in a greenhouse as our UK summers are rarely warm or sunny enough for the fruit to develop and ripen outside. Aubergines develop into large leaved, sturdy plants with very pretty violet flowers and a surprising number of thorns, so take care when potting on and harvesting.
Varieties to try r‘Black Enorma’ r A popular variety producing large purple fruit from midsummer through to autumn.
r‘Moneymaker’ r A reliable variety producing lots of slender aubergines per plant.
How to grow
r Sow seed in March in a heated greenhouse or propagator or in April in a cold greenhouse. Scatter seed on the surface of already watered compost and cover with vermiculite or finely sifted compost. Pot on seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle. When plants have developed three or four sets of leaves, pot them into their final pots – 22.5cm (9in) diameter is ideal. Pinch out the top of plants when they reach about 45cm (18in) tall to encourage them to bush out. Stake and tie in plants as they develp, feed with tomato food and keep well watered. r Aphids, whitefly and red spider mite can all present problems and irregular watering may initiate blossom end rot but aubergines are essentially trouble free plants.
Chilli peppers & sweet peppers
r Chilli peppers and sweet peppers belong to the same family of plants and are just as easy to grow as tomatoes and aubergines. They’ll add lots of colour to your greenhouse or sunny windowsill and you’ll get far more variety growing your own than you can find in the supermarket.
How to grow r Chillies and peppers need warmth to germinate so sow seed and stand in a heated greenhouse or propagator. Sow seed now to give them as long a growing season as possible, germination should take about 10 days. When seedlings have developed at least two sets of true leaves, transplant into individual pots and grow on in the same way as tomatoes. When large enough, plant in growing bags or individual pots in the greenhouse. Move them outside into a sunny sheltered spot when frost has passed. Feed with tomato food and pinch out the growing tip so they bush out and produce more fruit.
GardenNews
Six steps to successful tomatoes
of you free grow your own guide
34 Garden News / Grow Your Own special
Grow Your Own special / Part 2
8 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg
Root vegetables
rHow to grow potatoes rEasy carrots, beetroot and parsnips rBest way to grow the onion family
I
Plant potatoes 12cm (5in) deep at 30cm (12in) f you’re going to grow vegetables, intervals (maincrops need more space) in rows potatoes are a must. They may not be spaced 60cm (2ft) apart. expensive to buy from the supermarket, Stand by with some fleece or polythene if a but producing your own is much more late frost is forecast to protect young shoots rewarding, perhaps due to the ‘surprise’ from damage. Once your potatoes start element that comes with them. It doesn’t to sprout, you need to ‘earth’ them matter how many times you’ve grown them, up. The lengths of stem that you there’s nothing like unearthing beautiful tubers bury will produce more tubers from below the soil and they taste delicious, so by covering especially when freshly dug. them you’re Potatoes are divided into different increasing your groups depending on when they’re crop. Keep harvested: First Earlies (harvested earthing the June-July, depending on where potatoes you live, the weather and when up as they you planted them), Second grow. Earlies (July-August), Early Spuds do best in slightly Potatoes Maincrop (August-September) acidic soil so don’t can be ready and Late Maincrop (from add lime before when the plants September onwards until the planting start to flower or frosts). Choose potatoes from across when their leaves and the groups and you’ll be eating homestems start to turn yellow. Your best grown spuds all summer and beyond. bet is to scrape away a bit of soil at either Plant potatoes in the same order as their of these stages and see what’s going on under groups starting with first earlies when the soil ground. Store your potatoes somewhere frost is warming up, not when it’s cold and wet. free. Exclude light as this will turn them green Bulk up the soil by digging in as much organic and inedible. matter as possible before planting.
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Did you know?
Recommended varieties
Potatoes in containers
rYou don’t need a big patch to grow your own. Potatoes can be grown in compost bags, special barrels or large pots, for a crop that’s arguably even better than one grown in the ground, thanks to how easy to harvest they are. When they’re ready, just tip them out and dust the compost off!
To chit or not to chit?
rFirst
rSecond
rEarly
rLate
r‘Rocket’, ‘Foremost’
r‘Charlotte’, ‘Anya’
r‘Desirée’, ‘Maris Piper’
r‘Pink Fir Apple’, ‘Sarpo Mira’
earlies:
earlies:
maincrop:
maincrops:
rTraditionally, gardeners have been advised to ‘chit’ potatoes before planting. This means sitting your potatoes, eyes upwards, in a light, cool place so they develop fat green sprouts. You’re basically starting your potatoes into growth so when you plant them out they’re raring to go. rRecently, however, potato experts have argued that
chitting may ‘prematurely age’ potatoes, speeding things up at the start, but also decreasing the potential size of your crop. Planting into a warm soil is a better way to make sure your tubers grow, they argue, so chitting isn’t essential. Lots of gardeners are undecided so it’s worth trying both ways and seeing what results you get.
Grow Your Own special / Garden News 35
Part 2r
of you free grow your own guide
How Carrots, parsnips & beetroot to do it rStep by step
1
2
Plant chitted potatoes 13cm (5in) deep and far enough apart to give them sufficient growing space. Early potatoes should be planted 30cm (12in) apart in rows that are 60cm (2ft) apart. Second earlies and maincrop varieties need a bit more room so plant these 38cm (15in) apart in rows 75cm (2ft 6in) apart.
3
Beetroot Carrots Parsnips
r Root vegetables such as carrots and beetroot are easy to grow. All need light, fertile soil which should be deeply dug to encourage long straight roots. It’s best not to add manure prior to planting as its richness can cause roots to fork or split. Manure in the autumn instead to give it time to rot down and mellow.
Onions and shallots Onion seed or sets? r There are two ways to grow your main crop of onions; by sowing seed or planting sets (small bulbs). Both ways have their merits and should reliably produce a good crop so it’s a case of choosing which method is right for you.
Sets
r The onion family gives us Keep your potatoes valuable veg throughout weed-free and start the year and should to earth up plants grow well without once shoots reach the need for a lot about 15cm of attention. (6in) tall. Use Watering during a draw hoe to do this, dry spells, creating and vigilant a ridge hoeing are their Giant onions bred for of soil only essential showing also make over the requirements. good edible crops potatoes, They all like similar with furrows conditions so it’s between the best to grow them rows. together as a group if you can. For the best Rotating them to a different results, water your part of your garden each year potatoes regularly is also a good idea to avoid in dry weather. Start to the build up of disease. harvest once flowers Well-drained, fertile soil in appear, using a fork to a sunny position is what carefully lift your crop. they like best.
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Did you know?
4
Sow seed direct into drills in the ground on an open site in full sun. Try to sow thinly following the spacings given on the packet as these will give you optimum sized roots. Water regularly and protect with fleece or cloches. Fleece will help keep pests such as carrot root fly away. Carrots and beetroot can also be grown in containers.
r There’s so much more to beetroot than pickle. Boiled baby beets are wonderfully sweet and roasting really brings out their flavour. Beetroot is available in a surprising range of shapes and colours. Sow boltresistant varieties such as ‘Boltardy’ in March and others such as ‘Red Ace’ from the end of April onwards. By making regular sowings and harvesting when young you can have beetroot from early summer right through until autumn.
Plant onion sets outside in March or April. Make a shallow drill with a hoe and plant fat end down so the tip of each set is just above the soil surface. Space each one 10cm (4in) apart and leave 25cm (10in) between each row. Cover them with netting or fleece to stop birds from pulling them up.
r Don’t be put off by the time parsnips take to mature, as the sweet flavour produced is well worth the wait. Parsnips need very little attention. Harvest baby parsnips in late Young and tender summer beetroot leaves make or leave a tasty addition to them to salads mature into winter. ‘Avonresister’ is a good variety to try.
?
Did you know?
Leeks r Leeks like deep, fertile soil that has had plenty of organic matter dug in. Add a general fertiliser at the same time.
Seed
Sow onion seed indoors in January or February, and make outdoor sowings in early spring. Sow indoors in cell trays of multi purpose compost. Keep at a temperature of about 15C (59F) and plant out when seedlings have two pairs of true leaves. Space rows 30cm (12in) apart. Thin out to 10cm (4in) apart or further for bigger onions.
rFor and against + Very easy to grow; just plant them and let them grow where they are + It’s easy to control the amount you want to grow + You will get a crop quicker than from seed – Bolting is more likely (unless you get heat treated sets which are less prone)
r Once you’ve tasted home-grown carrots you’ll never want to eat shop-bought ones again. You can harvest carrots from late spring right through to mid winter. Early varieties such as ‘Nantes’ are small and quick to mature. Maincrop varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ are larger, take longer to mature and can be stored. Sow seed as thinly as possible to avoid having to thin as this can attract carrot root fly
– More expensive than seed + You get more varieties to choose from + A cheaper option than sets + Less prone to bolting – A more time consuming way of growing – Germination can be erratic + Seed-grown onions often store better
r Sow seed in March–April in modules or an outdoor seedbed. When seedlings are about 20cm (8in) tall, transplant into rows in your vegetable patch. Use a dibber to make deep, wide holes about 20cm (8in) apart, drop each leek into its hole, and water in. Keep plants weed free, water in dry spells and feed with a general fertiliser half way through the growing season. Harvest as required. Mature leeks can be left in the ground, provded they are disease free. If the ground freezes leeks can be difficult to lift, so if frost is forecast, dig some up in advance and heel them into a trench filled with compost. ‘Musselburgh Improved’ is a reliable variety to try.
GardenNews
Choose an open sunny site with deep fertile soil and dig in lots of well-rotted manure in autumn. Depending on how many potatoes you’re planting, you can either dig a trench or plant them in individual holes.
36 Garden News / Grow Your Own special
Grow Your Own special
Part 2
Great garden offers
of your free grow your own guide
rGet growing with fantastic offers from Thompson & Morgan! Send for the FREE strawberry collection PLUS special fertiliser. There are also some special baskets for your strawberries or flowering plants, top class onions and a space-saving vegetable pouch collection !
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FERTILISER INCLUDED! rStrawberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow and you can enjoy bumper crops of home-grown, juicy and delicious fruits with our great reader giveaway! In our strawberry collection you can claim 5 bare roots each of two popular varieties: ‘Honeoye’ Bright red, very firm fruits of superb quality and flavour. Ideal for making jam or suitable for freezing. ‘Elsanta’ A modern, top-selling variety of large, shiny red fruit with a sweet flavour. Plus 100g of fertiliser to provide the right nutrients for your plants.
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Next week Don’t miss the third part of our Grow Your Own special!
MORE EASY CROPS FOR SUMMER FRUIT AND VEG r Bumper crops of peas and beans r Courgettes and squashes for delicious summer feasts r Easy fruit that crops quickly r Gourmet treats: asparagus & artichokes r Plus more money-saving offers for GN readers from Thompson & Morgan
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