EASY TO FOLLOW, CUT-AND-CARRY ROUTES ACROSS THE COUNTRY
May 2016 £4.20
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From sandy coves to soaring peaks: your new favourite walking area awaits!
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Find your pocket of paradise: www.livefortheoutdoors.com
ISSUE 354 GOWER ◆ CANNOCK CHASE ◆ COTSWOLDS ◆ #WALK500MILES ◆ DARLING BUDS ◆ TEASHOPS ◆ RUCKSACKS ◆ FRENCH ALPS
Britain’s best-selling walking magazine
AREA S
MAY 2016
26
Gorgeous walks in AONBs
◆ GOWER PENINSULA ◆ QUANTOCK HILLS ◆ ISLE OF HARRIS ◆ CANNOCK CHASE ◆ NORTHUMBERLAND ◆ SCILLY ISLES ◆ NORTH PENNINES ◆ WYE VALLEY ◆ SURREY HILLS ◆ KNOYDART
RUCKSACKS REVIEWED
Buy the best day pack for YOUR needs
A COTSWOLD WEEKEND
Ready-made plans for the perfect two days
KENTISH HEAVEN
Walk Darling Bud country... in May
The new challenge YOU can do! FREE PROGRESS TRACKER INSIDE
beautiful Outstandingly
Sixty years on from their birth, Britain’s Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty have become the gold standard for walking landscapes. CW sings happy birthday by visiting 15 of our favourites, to show you how to put the ‘O’ into AONB…
STANDING OUT The spectacular scenery of the Gower peninsula is perhaps the perfect embodiment of what AONBs are all about.
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YEARS OF AONBS
DISCOVER AONBs Gower
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UR COUNTRYSIDE IS swamped with a befuddling number of acronyms. Ten points for each of these: NNR, LNR, SSSI, MCZ, SAC, even the odd WHS*. But for walkers, the best of the lot is the AONB. Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, but sometimes everyone just agrees – and AONBs are a case in point. Whatever you think beauty is, you simply can’t turn up at the Cotswolds, the Wye Valley, the Mourne Mountains or the Assynt and not know that you’ve found it. There are 46 AONBs in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, while the Scottish equivalents are the 40 National Scenic Areas (NSAs). It’s tempting to think of them as second-string national parks, but please don’t. In so many ways, they have exactly the same DNA as national parks: the same level of protection and promotion, the same restrictions on planning, and the same conservation ideals. And they weren’t an afterthought, either: the idea of AONBs developed totally in tandem with national parks, as we’ll learn later. We start off our celebration with the first of the lot. On 9th May 1956 (60 years ago this issue), the Gower peninsula in south Wales was signed into life as the first ever Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. So come with us and discover why it was the pathfinder for the whole wonderful idea. If beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder, you’re about to do some top-notch beholding…
* National Nature Reserve, Local Nature Reserve, Site of Special Scientific Interest, Marine Conservation Zone, Special Area of Conservation, World Heritage Site. Well done, smarty pants.
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“Whatever you think beauty is, you can’t turn up at a place like this and not know that you’ve found it.”
PHOTO: © XXXXX XXXXXXX/ALAMY
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Quantock Theory The curving ridges and cosy valleys of Somerset’s Quantock Hills make an irresistible May walk, as you trace the steps of poets and pirates through England’s first AONB. WORDS: MARK SUTCLIFFE
ROMANTIC VIEWS Looking west across the Quantocks from Woodlands Hill, over a landscape loved by the Romantic Poets.
PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
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DISCOVER DISCOVER AONBs Quantock AO Strapline Hills
MAY 2016 COUNTRY WALKING 43
Pure shores
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Explore pristine beaches, walk wild peatlands and climb to island-spanning views on a captivating long weekend in the Harris National Scenic Area. WO R D S & P H OTO S : B E N DAV I S
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DISCOVER AONBs Harris
PAR ADISE FOUND Often voted the UK’s most beautiful beach, Luskentyre offers walkers a huge swathe of unspoilt golden sand to stroll along.
The
thrill of theChase
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Cannock Chase is a tiny AONB, yet it combines a dozen fantastic landscapes from heathland to hilltop. It also offers an unusual and haunting perspective on human conflict‌ WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY
PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
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DISCOVER AONBs Cannock Chase
WILD AT HEART Following the path up Cherry Tree Slade, one of dozens of serene mini-valleys which can be explored on Cannock Chase.
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A perfick walk in the Garden of England, 25 years after WORDS: PHILIP THOMAS
PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
DISCOVER The Kentish Weald
INSET PHOTO: © ITV/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
BUDS of MAY the boisterous Larkins blossomed onto our TV screens.
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Little Alps for
BIG APPETITES Unknown to Brits but loved by the French, the Alpine village of La Clusaz combines inviting footpaths to accessible mountain summits with irresistible nosh. Bon appetit! WORDS & PHOTOS: DAMIAN HALL
BELLE VUE The view back from the summit of Tardevant towards L’Ambrevettaz and out to Mont Blanc.
DISCOVER The French Alps
MAY 2016 COUNTRY WALKING 73
Expert advice on the kit that makes a difference YOUR COMPLETE BUYING GUIDE TO
OUR TESTERS
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FOR SUMMER
he humble backpack has come a long way since someone first had the bright idea of fixing two straps to a sack and slinging it over their shoulders. We expect more from a daypack these days, but the essential requirement is the same. They must comfortably carry all the necessities of walking life, whatever the weather. In summer this means plenty of water, sun protection, and more often than not, waterproofs. We’re looking at ten daypacks between 18 and 30 litres in capacity – ample room for the essentials and versatile enough for stowing spare layers and extra gear. But aside from capacity, what makes one different from another? It really is a case of horses for courses (or rather packs for backs), because as our reviews explain, every pack is designed for different needs. Some are featured-packed and fully adjustable, while others are trimmed down to the bare essentials. Then there are those which find a happy balance. Comfort, fit, durability, weight and stability are all things to consider when buying a pack, not to mention an array of features too. Our reviews represent a variety of designs and styles, and a range of prices. So whatever your needs, you’ll find a pack that’s right for you.
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About our reviews We’ve chosen ten daypacks which should be widely available on the UK market at the time of going to press. Philip and Rachel tested five each and all but two are unisex. The women’s fit packs are indicated by pink dots ( ), but we’ve also mentioned the unisex equivalents in the specs and indicated when women’s versions of the unisex designs are available. We don’t pick an overall winner as no single option will suit every walker; instead we focus on the pros and cons of each pack and the kind of walking they’re designed for.
qREADY TO GO Comfy, stable and carrying everything you’ll need, a good daypack is key to a carefree day out.
NB: WE ALWAY SPECIFY THE RECOMMENDED RETAIL PRICE (RRP) FOR CONSISTENCY. YOU MAY SEE THESE ITEMS SOLD FOR CONSIDERABLY LESS IN STORES AND ONLINE.
Country Walking always tests products for both men and women. Our reviewers Philip Thomas and Rachel Broomhead have notched up thousands of miles on foot, so they know the value of good kit at the right price. This test took them to the Yorkshire Dales, the Lake District, the Nene Valley and the Kent Downs.
Rucksacks
Buying Guide Summer Rucksacks STABILTY & BALANCE A stable, balanced pack is more comfortable to wear and most packs include straps for optimising fit and stability. A hip belt takes weight off the upper back, while a sternum (chest) strap ensures the shoulder straps sit comfortably on the shoulders. Compression straps keep the contents of a pack compact and close to the back, while load lifters let you move this weight closer or further from the upper back.
HARNESS For optimum comfort, a pack should sit stably on your back, with the padded hip belt and shoulder straps hugging your body, spreading the weight between the upper and lower back. Ask if you can try on a weighted pack in store to get a real feel for fit, cushioning and stability.
BACK SYSTEM A back system like this uses grooves and gaps in meshcovered foam padding to allow airflow. Keeping weight flat to the back, the load is spread more efficiently across the flexible panel. Some packs use a concave frame or panel to suspend a mesh, creating a better ventilated air space. However, this pushes the load away from the back and can infringe on internal space.
SMART STORAGE Versatile storage lets you pack efficiently, organising your kit into the extra pockets and pouches, with the essentials close at hand. Stretchy pouches are great for stowing unwanted layers and some rucksacks have extra zips for getting at things stored at the bottom. Most packs also include a pouch for a hydration system (bladder), keeping the weight of the water close to the back. Likewise, most designs have loops for walking poles.
FINE-TUNED FIT WEATHERPROOFING Few rucksacks are truly waterproof – it’s tricky to seal up every seam and opening – but most are water resistant and many come with a waterproof raincover. These aren’t totally foolproof however. A squally downpour will inevitably find a way inside, usually through the open gap between back and pack. Many prefer using a waterproof drysack or drybags to line the inside of their rucksack.
For a closer fitting harness, some rucksacks come in different back lengths. Most packs are unisex, but some models are optimised for women. Female-fit packs accommodate the hips, bust and narrower shoulders for a more comfortable and stable fit, but many women prefer unisex designs.
u CORRECTION: The RRP for
the Fjällräven Keb Eco-Shell jacket is £390 and not as stated last issue. The jacket is also certified PFC-free rather than CFC-free. Apologies for the error.
Turn over to read the tests… MAY 2016 COUNTRY WALKING 79
27 ROUTES with Ordnance Survey Maps
Britain’s est
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PHOTO: © NAOMI ROE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
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WALK THIS WAY The shoulder of Slieve Donard sneaks into view on the path up by the Glen River. Discover what lies around the corner with Walk 26.
Isles of Beauty
See for miles in the Malverns l Step into Suffolk’s picture-perfect riverscape l Discover Yorkshire’s secret beauty spots... and more outstanding walks
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Find a great walk near you...
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01 Cornwall Kilmar Tor 02 Somerset Quantocks
NORTH WEST
03 Dorset Plush
NORTH EAST
04 Gloucestershire Minchinhampton Common
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05 Gloucestershire Nailsworth & Avening
SCOTLAND
06 Isle of Wight Brighstone Circuit
IRELAND
07 Surrey Box Hill
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08 Kent Pluckley 09 Oxfordshire Watlington 10 Worcs/Herefordshire Great Malvern
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11 Shropshire Caer Caradoc
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12 Staffordshire Cannock Chase 13 Suffolk Dedham Vale
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14 Lincolnshire Snipe Dales
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15 Lancashire Bowland Knotts
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16 Lancashire Silverdale
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17 Cumbria Knock Pike
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18 North Yorkshire Lofthouse
24 Borders Eildon Hills 25 Highland Loch Achtriochtan
A B
NAVIGATION: Good map-reading and compass skills required in places. DISTANCE: Route is between 8-12 miles from start to finish. TERRAIN: 3000ft+ with sustained steep ascent/descent; possible scrambling.
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TERRAIN: Min 2000ft ascent, sustained steepness and rocky or boggy ground. E
TRAILZILLA ID (on reverse of card) We upload all our walks to Trailzilla.com so subscribers can use the unique code displayed on the back of each route card to download and print the route.
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GRADE Our routes are graded easy, moderate, challenging or occasionally extreme, depending on distance, terrain, elevation and ease of navigation. Easy and moderate walks are usually less than 8 miles with relatively gentle gradients. The table below shows how we grade our more challenging walks:
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GRADIENT PROFILE Check the ascent and descent (hilliness) of the route with a quick glance at this profile.
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For a full list of 2015 walks, visit www.lfto.com/countrywalkingroutesindex If you spot a route which needs updating, email cwroutes@bauermedia.co.uk
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ABBREVIATIONS We have abbreviated left to L and right to R.
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u Werneth Low, Greater Manchester, April 2016, Walk 15 – Points 3 to 4 Temporary footpath closure/diversion in place at Kennels (SJ936929) for surface improvements; rejoins river path further on. See: www.bit.ly/apr16r15
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OUR EXPERTS All our routes are written by experienced and knowledgeable walkers who are experts at finding the best walks in their area and describing them clearly.
CHALLENGE WALK CLASSIC ROUTE
Route updates
challenging
23 Denbighshire Lleete Path/Ffrith Mountain
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extreme
22 Anglesey Trearddur
WALK INFORMATION An estimate of how long the route will take, based on a pace of about two miles per hour, with allowances made for slower, hilly routes.
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21 Monmouthshire/Glous Wye Valley
How to use your routes
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20 Durham Rookhope & Bolt’s Law
27 Gower Worm’s Head
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19 North Yorkshire Kirkham Priory
26 County Down Glen River
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NAVIGATION: Sound navigation skills required; route may be trackless. DISTANCE: Route is more than 12 miles from start to finish.
MAPS (on reverse of route card) Follow the red route marked clearly on the map. It’s essential to take the relevant Ordnance Survey map with you in case you get lost and inadvertently leave the area covered by our map.