The complete guide to the 3 Peaks by Trail magazine

The complete guide to the

3 PEAKS THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE THREE PEAKS

BEN NEVIS SCAFELL PIKE SNOWDON Scotland / 1345m

England / 978m

Wales / 1085m

100

packed pages! routes + maps, vital kit, expert advice & local secrets

ÂŁ6.99

Showboating on the summit of Snowdon, the last peak of the challenge for anyone going north to south. TOM BAILEY

What is

the Three Peaks Challenge? Your introduction to a grand adventure spanning three countries... and the highest point of a nation.

he national Three Peaks Challenge is the practice of climbing the highest mountains in Scotland, England and Wales in a single, continuous push. The most popular way to tackle it is in 24 hours – but increasingly people are splitting it over the still-challenging but less frantic three days, or even a leisurely week to allow them to enjoy these special places to the full. We are of course talking about Ben Nevis – the highest mountain in the British Isles (1345m/4,411ft) – in the West Highlands of Scotland; Scafell Pike (978m/3,209ft) in the English Lake District; and the mighty Snowdon (1085m/3,560ft), the celebrated centrepiece of Snowdonia National Park in north Wales. To climb all three requires good basic fitness, stamina and fortitude in the face of sometimes testing mountain weather: from burning sun to frigid wind. Complete the challenge and you will have climbed over 3,000 vertical metres – or the equivalent of 30 Big Bens, 10 Eiffel Towers or 1,150 domestic staircases – in three countries. It is estimated up to 30,000 people undertake the Three Peaks Challenge every year between June and October. Many do it for charity, and many for their own personal satisfaction. This popularity has also led to the need to tackle the peaks in a way that is responsible – considerate of the fragile ecosystems on the mountains and the communities that live around them. You can reach all three summits without being a ‘mountaineer’, though their terrain can be inhospitable, their weather can be extreme and their severity can take even experienced walkers by surprise. Choosing the route to the top that best suits your skill, whether you’re a fi rst-time three peaker or an experienced hillwalker looking for a challenge, is what this guide is all about. We’ll also give you the best practical tips to make your challenge run smoothly – from the best food stops to the smartest places to park – and also give you a few thousand alternatives (literally) should you decide to go ‘off-piste’ with your challenge!

BEN NEVIS 1345m West Highlands page 12

SCAFELL PIKE 978m Lake District page 34

µ SNOWDON 1085m Snowdonia page 58

▲ How to choose your routes up Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon – from beginner challenge walks on clear paths to satisfying ridge walks and demanding scrambles that show off each mountain at its most rugged. ▲ Advice on gear you’ll need and the big questions you need to to ask before planning your ascent of Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon.

▲ Maps and route guides for all three mountains. ▲ Tips for planning your own Three Peaks Challenge. ▲ Alternatives to the 24-hour challenge,, including tackling the trio over three days, by public transport and even selecting different peaks to climb!

TOM BAILEY

IN THIS GUIDE YOU WILL FIND... ▲ How to ensure your challenge has minimal impact on each mountain and its surrounding communities. Nothing beats hatching the perfect plan.

BEN NEVIS

Britain’s highest mountain: 1345m/ 4,411ft

Ben

“It’s a monstrous contradiction, a geological Incredible Hulk” 12

Nevis The brutish outline of Ben Nevis rises above Fort William. CLIFF GREEN / ALAMY

en Nevis has a curious condition. Every person in the street knows it by name. And if that name is delivered with a nonplussed expression you may have found someone who knows Ben Nevis not only by name but by its popular reputation: a motorway, a fiesta of have-a-go heroes, its summit a kind of peculiar ceremonial scrapheap for feats craving a ‘highest’ clause to validate them in the record books. Maybe these folks are walking’s answer to a splinter party taking a stance against populism; or (more likely) they’ve had a bad day on the

Mountain Track they’d rather forget. Either way, forgive them. It’s expected. A peak as famous as Ben Nevis, like many things of wide appeal, is trendy to dislike. But like we said, it’s a curious condition. Curious because to anyone who has merely a passing grasp of what really makes a mountain, Ben Nevis is absolutely bloody stupendous. Dramatic, labyrinthine, transcendent and soaring, devious and thoroughly terrifying, and – as with the best of anything – utterly of its own ilk, an Alpine freak ripped from somewhere else entirely and dropped, wriggling, onto Scotland. Consider the way it looks, feels and behaves, and the stunts, fanfare and unjustifiably eroded reputation fade to mist – and Ben Nevis

❯

BEN NEVIS

Ben Nevis danger The summit plateau of Britain’s highest mountain is fraught with danger. Here’s how to descend from it safely – in any weather.

Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arête NN178721 The CMD Arête provides a challenging alternative route. In summer it gives a simple Grade 1 scramble with lots of comforting pinnacles to hold onto and shimmy between. However, in snow the pinnacles disappear, turning the route into a narrow and very exposed crest. You’ll need to be proficient moving over mixed ground using an ice axe and crampons, and be used to exposure. High winds make progress either very difficult or impossible.

EXPERT TIP! In winter as well as adequate warm clothing you will need ice axe and crampons, and the skills to use them. Goggles are also essential as map reading and navigation will become severely compromised in windblown snow. Check for avalanche alerts before you set out at the SportScotland Avalanche Information Service (www.sais.gov.uk), where daily reports of avalanche, snow, and mountain conditions are reported.

The Zigzags NN157713 The Zigzags path is often obliterated by snow, so it is vital to stay alert and keep up with the map and compass work.

Red Burn NN147718 At the bottom of the Zigzags you’ll cross the Red Burn to reach the ‘Halfway Lochan’ (Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe). When banked out with snow the slope is steep and exposed, requiring great care to cross safely.

The plateau The main problem for hillwalkers is getting off the plateau safely when it has a covering of snow. Winter snows can lie up to 30ft deep with fragile cornices (snow overhangs) extending over crag edges for over 40ft, and often the snow lasts well into the summer months. Regular white-outs and high winds make navigation extremely difficult. You have to walk on two very precise bearings to find the safe route down – so you need to be pretty handy with a map and compass. From the trig point summit (NN166712) follow a bearing of 231° (grid bearing) for 150m, then 282° (grid bearing) down McLean’s Steep to the start of the zigzags. off the summit bad visibility. AGetting new set of navigation cairns in have been built to aid clearing the plateau, but although they are tall, some still bank out after heavy snowfall.

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Eastern Shoulder

NN169710 This gives access to the CMD Arête from the summit and the route down to Steall in Glen Nevis. This shoulder forms a steep convex slope and is also prone to wind scour and low temperatures, which can make it very icy. Careful footwork is critical here as a fall would be very hard to arrest. Can be avalanche-prone.

Trig. point

2 Then turn to a grid bearing of 282˚ 1. 1 First walk on a grid bearing of 231˚ for 150m

Gardyloo Gully NN165711 The first leg of the bearing (above) gets you away from the cornices at the head of Gardyloo Gully, but beware: these cornices can be huge, and they lie only 35m away from the line of the bearing.

Five Finger Gully NN157712 The second bearing (above) takes you down the steepening of McLean’s Steep and onto the easier slopes at the top of the Zigzags. This isn’t a time to relax, however, as it is easy to drift left off your bearing, which will take you onto the steep convex slopes at the head of Five Finger Gully. Can be avalanche-prone.

An aerial view of Ben Nevis, as seen from the west. STUART SMITH 31

SCAFELL PIKE

UTE

SCRA

B LIN G R

THE COCKLY PIKE RIDGE Fancy spicing up your journey to the summit of Scafell Pike? Then head for Cockly Pike Ridge – the greatest scramble you’ve never heard of. WORDS OLI REED

Approaching Scafell Pike’s summit from Broad Crag Col, a spectacular finish to one of Lakeland’s finest scrambles. TOM BAILEY

o that’s the walkers covered on Scafell Pike, but what about the scramblers? Don’t worry, you haven’t been forgotten about, because tucked away on the mountain’s secretive eastern flank – hidden from the hordes who flock to the mountain via Wasdale and Borrowdale – is a gem of a scramble crying out for some long-overdue attention. The little-known Cockly Pike Ridge, which leads over the summit of Ill Crag en route to the top of England, is a scrambling line so perfect that once you’ve nailed it you’ll be furious you didn’t discover it sooner. Starting from the pristine valley of Great Moss, this do-it-yourself route – the longest of its kind in the country – rises almost 500m in less than a kilometre, carrying you over a steep obstacle course of rock pyramids, boulders, slabs and scree. Apart from the odd grassy terrace, you’ll be on solid stone the whole way, using hands, feet and elbows to propel yourself skywards. Route-finding is simple, exposure is minimal, the terrain isn’t too challenging and – perhaps most importantly – it feels like a proper adventure. Arguably the best thing about the Scafell massif is that it’s located slap-bang in the core of the Lake District, with the vast majority of England’s most coveted peaks providing an epic backdrop to any ascent. Bowfell, Esk Pike and Crinkle Crags zigzag along the skyline ❯ 49

E N GE R O

SNOWDON

Walking on the early stages of the Pyg Track near Pen-y-Pass, with the awesome sight of Crib Goch rising in the distance. © TREKKINGIMAGES / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PYG TRACK This little path with massive views unlocks

Snowdon’s summit for a wide range of walkers. WORDS SIMON INGRAM

ould there be a mountain path that strikes such an exquisite balance between accessibility and fully-loaded reward than Snowdon’s Pyg Track? If there is, we don’t know of it. At once this enigmatically christened route asserts itself as a happily clear yet rugged feeling route up the mountain – which also shows Wales’ highest ❯ peak off at its most ballistic angle.

Three Peaks Challenge:

FIVE GOLDEN RULES

LEAVE NO TRACE

Take whatever you bring to the mountain home with you, whether organic or not. That means litter, banners, water bottles, clothing and anything that has left your body and not landed in a purpose-built toilet (don’t flinch: a nappy bag, some Kleenex and a rustic outlook are all you need to pack, and all weigh very little). If you need to wee, do it away from water sources; and when walking keep strictly to paths, not path edges.

SCHEDULE SENSIBLY

If you’re doing the challenge over 24 hours, you need a designated driver who isn’t in your walking group, and who can sleep while you’re on the hill. The typical challenge involves around 10 hours of driving and 14 hours of walking. Park courteously at your destination, especially if arriving at night in small rural communities. If there’s no room to park, get your driver to drop you off and pick you up later.

Don’t put pressure on areas already pressurised by busy times. Avoid bank holidays, school breaks and the summer solstice; and seriously consider breaking the challenge over three days, which is easier, more sensible and more fun. Avoid arriving at, or leaving, a settlement between the hours of 11pm and 5am if possible.

STAY SAFE

No challenge is worth rushing on the mountain. Most responsible organisers adopt the practice of using a minimum driving time of 10 hours, which is added to your mountain walking time regardless of how long the drive actually took. This removes the time pressure of the driving element and therefore makes speeding between the peaks pointless. On the hill, you should also take your time. Choose routes sensibly, ensure you have at least one very experienced member, make sure you know how and when to contact mountain rescue (p33) and be equipped for all weathers. Don’t be afraid to turn round, either – the mountain will always be there. Climbing some mountains in nonchallenge conditions first to build experience should be considered essential. And if you want extra help, there are many companies that will organise your entire challenge for you.

DRIVE RESPONSIBLY

CONSIDER THE SIZE OF YOUR GROUP A limit of 200 people per event is considered the maximum by landowners and authorities. But as you’ll need to register your challenge (and pay passage fees) a year in advance if your group comprises more than 10 people, why not keep under that figure and stay small and nimble? If you have a big group and need to register, you can find details of how to do so here: www.threepeakspartnership.co.uk/register And if you want to score top Brownie points, consider donating £1 per person per peak to help look after these special places. You can donate here: www.threepeakspartnership.co.uk/ get-involved

... AND THREE SNEAKY TIPS 1 NORTH TO SOUTH, OR SOUTH TO NORTH? Opinions vary on whether it’s better to start the challenge on Ben Nevis or Snowdon. Typically, as it covers the most challenging terrain and involves the most ascent, Ben Nevis is climbed first. It also offers some appealing scheduling benefits, namely the chance to climb all of the mountains in daylight, beginning the climb on Ben Nevis at 5pm, driving overnight to Scafell Pike, then finishing late afternoon on Snowdon. It will also depend on where you’re based; usually it’s preferable to get the biggest journey out of the way before you begin, rather than after.

Climbing the stone steps that make up a large chunk of the Ben Nevis Mountain Track. © MARK R WILLIAMSON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

2 THE BEST NUTRITION Avoid excess caffeine – it can make you ‘addled’, and it’s a diuretic, so you’ll want to pee (or poo) more, neither of which are conducive to long road journeys. Stick to water or mild isotonic drinks: try mixing 200ml of fruit juice with 800ml of water and a pinch of salt.

3 PREPARE YOUR MAPS

For more info on best practice visit www.threepeakspartnership. co.uk and for local hints and tips see p78 (Snowdon), p56 (Scafell Pike) and p32 (Ben Nevis).

You’ll need the appropriate maps in your bag as back-up in case you go off-route; but it’s also worth printing off, annotating and laminating enlargements of the three routes you’re tackling so you have them to hand and don’t have to flap about with huge maps on the hill. Memory-Map (www.memory-map.co.uk) and Ordnance Survey (www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk) both offer the ability to print off maps, though you’ll need a subscription. It’s highly recommended, though, as hopefully this will be the start of many mountain adventures to come!

Getting fit for The Three Peaks Challenge can be an arduous undertaking for anyone unused to the exertion of climbing hills. If you have a reasonable level of fitness you should be capable of completing it, but hillwalking presents a unique set of challenges. Here are two different exercise routines to get your body ready for tackling the biggest mountains in Scotland, England and Wales.

The long-term plan (for newbie walkers)

MONTHS TO CHALLENGE

START WITH YOURSELF

The weight you carry up the mountains can have a considerable effect on your progress and your tiredness, so being mindful of the kilos on your back is important. But the biggest thing you’ll be carrying up those mountains is yourself. If – like many of us – you happen to be carrying a little extra around the midriff, easing off on the calories and keeping trim in the months leading up to your challenge will keep you light on your feet and can make a big difference. Even a modest loss of 2kg equals two bags of sugar you’d otherwise be lugging up the equivalent of around 1,150 staircases.

MONTHS TO CHALLENGE

TAKE SMALL STEPS

The best training for walking is walking. Start simply by taking a wander at lunchtime, starting with 15 brisk minutes, then extending to 30 minutes, then 45 minutes, then 30 minutes with a 5kg rucksack, then 45 minutes with a 5kg rucksack. Walk fast enough so that you’re just out of breath, and keep extending the distance. Make sure you pick something that is achievable regularly – which is why a lunch hour (or a dog walk, or a commute) is a good idea. A few ways to ensure you’re tucking in exercise whenever you can: always take the stairs, not the lift; try to up your normal walking pace so you’re a little out of breath; keep track of your steps using a pedometer – you’ll find the daily challenge of setting yourself a ‘step target’ strangely compulsive and highly beneficial.

the Three Peaks The quick fix (for fitness fanatics) WEEK 1

WEEK 2

WEEK 3

WEEK 4

MON TUES WED

Rest

Run – 2 miles

Run – 3 miles

Run – 5 miles

Rest

THURS

Run – 3 miles

Run – 4 miles

Run – 6 miles

Rest – load up on carbs, particularly wholemeal pasta

FRI

Rest

SAT

Training walk – 12 miles

Training walk – 18 miles, including night navigation

Simulated challenge event (such as the

Yorkshire Three Peaks)

Rest – carb load

– 25 miles

SUN Warm-down run – 1 mile Warm-down run – 2 miles Warm-down run – 1 mile Three Peaks Challenge!

MONTH TO CHALLENGE

[

TAKE BIGGER STEPS

If the best training for walking is walking, the best training for hillwalking is... hillwalking. Try to get yourself outside and up at least one hill before you tackle your challenge – this will also help you familiarise your mind and body with the sort of terrain you’re likely to be walking up on your challenge.

USE YOUR KIT Most modern boots don’t need ‘breaking in’, but you’ll benefit from familiarising yourself with them before your challenge. Wearing them with walking socks for at least a few miles will help you get used to them, so they don’t feel clumsy on the hill.

DAY TO CHALLENGE!

F STAY HYDRATED

Pre-hydration is important, but don’t go over the top. Aim to drink 2-3 litres of water the day before your challenge, and keep an eye on your wee – if you’re going too often or it’s very pale or clear, you’re all topped up. Oh, and don’t go mad in the pub beforehand – alcohol can have a ruinous effect on your system the day before a strenuous undertaking.

EAT CARB-RICH FOODS Pasta, rice and other carbohydrates the night before your challenge will give you lots of slow-release reserves. Avoid too much salt and sugar, but don’t be too quick to refuse a fry-up on the morning of your challenge – studies have shown that it contains just about the right balance of nutrition to get you up a steep slope quite effectively. If you’re unconvinced by this, you can’t go wrong with the slow-release goodness of porridge. 91

E V E RY R O U T E TO T H E R O O F O F S COT L A N D, E N G L A N D & WA L E S C H A L L E N G E WA L KS A L L-T I M E C L ASS I C S THRILLING SCRAMBLES

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