#LiveMoreYHA issue 7 by YHA

#LiveMoreYHA Issue #7 - April 2017

Walk the Lakes We share our favourite day-hikes in the glorious Lake District

In Bristol

Country girl

Day tripper

Visit the southwest's cultural hub

Kate Humble on her love of the outdoors

The ideal hostels for great days out

LOCATION: Nanda Devi Camp 03 1979 PACK: Expedition Series 1967

In 1967 we made a backpack that in one moment, changed the world. ‘The Expedition’ was the first pack to feature an internal frame. It made the pack lighter, stronger and easier to carry. This design became a blueprint for every pack made today. Fifty years on we still spend every moment doing what we love - designing the best backpacks in the world.

#FORMOMENTSLIKETHIS | LOWEALPINE.CO.UK/50YEARS

Welcome At YHA we make it our business to think about the future. We’re deeply proud of our long history as an organisation – 87 years and counting! – but we know that a large part of our responsibility lies in ensuring that we can continue to have a positive impact on future generations of young people. We care passionately about creating new experiences and opportunities for young people, and as such we make it one of our most important priorities. To this end we’ve invested more than £37 million since 2011, helping to bring brand new Youth Hostels to life and refurbishing ones we have had for many years in the network. To choose just three of many examples, YHA Tanners Hatch has recently reopened following investment; YHA Keswick, which suffered so badly in last year’s floods, is now back open with vastly improved facilities; and the brand new, state-of-the-art YHA The Sill at Hadrian’s Wall will open its doors this summer. I hope you’ll find plenty to inspire you in this latest issue of #LiveMoreYHA. Among all manner of other content you’ll find features on The Lake District and Bristol, as well as an interview with the wonderful Kate Humble. I have been immensely proud to lead the transformation of YHA into a vibrant network of hostels welcoming so many new people and giving them the opportunity to explore and experience cities and towns and the countryside of England and Wales. I’m also deeply grateful for the commitment and support of you, our guests, without whom we simply wouldn’t have achieved the successes of the last few years. Happy hostelling and my best wishes to you all.

ecutive x E f ie h C , e t i h W e n li o ar C 3

A H Y E R O #LIVEMWITH

AN EXTRA

OFF

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FOR YHA MEMBERS

(ENGLAND & WALES)

OVER 55 STORES NATIONWIDE | GOOUTDOORS.CO.UK

*A GO Outdoors Discount Card is required. Discount Cards are available in store and online for just Â£5 per year. Only one coupon per Discount Card. Offer valid until 31st January 2018. Proof of membership must be shown at the till to receive the discount. Not to be used in conjunction with Price Match Plus, SALE, Clearance, WOW Deals, multibuys, bundles, or any other offer. Does not include Gift Vouchers, Discount Cards or gas hire charges. Subject to availability. Offer can be withdrawn at any time.

Contents

06 Stepping Out: News, views

28 How to... take great smartphone

08 An interview with BBC presenter

30 Gear: the best new kit for

32 Hostel guide: plan your next

and inspiration

Cover: golakes.co.uk

Kate Humble

Our favourite day-walks in the Lake District

photos, and more

exploring the great outdoors

adventure

20 Discovering Bristol's harbour

38 Pictures from your adventures

24 Nine hostel bases for great

39 COMPETITION: Win one of two

on two wheels

days out in the UK

and #LiveMoreYHA tweets

top-of-the-range Salewa jackets 5

Stepping Out: Investment

Settling into the future We’re continuing to invest in our hostels around the country, ensuring properties like the lovely YHA Tanners Hatch are well set to welcome guests for generations to come

Three things mark out YHA Tanners Hatch as a special hostel. The first is its location, set in glorious National Trust woodland in the Surrey Hills. The second is its distinctive character, being a Grade II-listed cottage brimming with country charm. And the third is its longevity – already long established in its location, the property has recently received the investment to keep it looking tip-top for future generations.

It’s just one of many properties to have benefitted from recent investment. YHA St Davids, YHA Liverpool, YHA London Thameside and YHA Keswick – now reopen after the 2015 floods, and in better shape than ever – are four other key hostels which have received facelifts this year. Also basking in the glow of 2017 refurbishments are YHA New Forest, YHA London St Paul’s, YHA Treyarnon Bay, YHA Kettlewell and YHA London St Pancras.

Work this year, while very much retaining the hostel’s old-world magic, has seen it newly equipped with fresh home comforts, as well as superb family-friendly safari tents. As a retreat close to London, it’s always been popular for walking and cycling breaks – and that appeal has now been set in stone for years to come.

Elsewhere, YHA Hartington Hall will complete renovation work by the summer, a season that also welcomes the new YHA The Sill at Hadrian’s Wall. And looking further ahead, 2019 will see the opening of our £30 million, 850-bed “super hostel”: YHA London Stratford. yha.org.uk/changing-spaces

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Brand new family-friendly safari tents

YHA Tanners Hatch is a Grade II-listed cottage brimming with country charm

Stepping Out: Kate Humble

Celebrity Q&A

Kate Humble

ÂŠ Oliver Edwards, Countryfile

To call Kate Humble a lover of the outdoors would be an understatement. The presenter lives on a South Wales farm and has made her name from extolling the virtues of the natural world. But while her work has taken her everywhere from Yellowstone to the Arctic, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still no place like home

Are those early years where your love of nature comes from? Absolutely. My friends and I would just go out all day, with a bag of Marmite sandwiches and apples. A KitKat if you were really lucky. We spent our whole time outdoors. We got completely filthy, plasters on both knees – it was fantastic. It’s got to be healthy to have a childhood that involves being outside, exploring things and discovering things: finding bird’s nests, doing snail races, building camps. It was all a completely unselfconscious outdoor experience – you had to make your own fun. You weren’t constantly monitored and it gave us all a level of responsibility. It’s funny, because we had a proper childhood and certainly didn’t grow up too fast, but conversely we also had a real level of independence. We had to look after ourselves, had to know what to do. There were no mobile phones then – you just had to deal with stuff! Your new book, Friend for Life, is about the relationship between humans and dogs. What brought it about? When I got my Welsh sheepdog Teg it was the most extraordinary journey for me, learning how to work with a dog. Watching a really good shepherd with a really good dog is like watching the best of Strictly Come Dancing. It also got me thinking about the unique partnership

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What do you remember about your first great outdoor experience? Ha! Well, I’ve always been an outdoor kid. I always liked adventures. I grew up in the Berkshire countryside, and when I was three I had one of those little children’s wheelbarrows. One day I just went trundling off with it and was found a mile away from home, going who knows where! But my mum said I was always a bit of a wanderer.

We got completely filthy, plasters on both knees – it was fantastic

betwen humans and dogs. It’s accepted they’re descended from wolves, and wolves and humans have never got along very well. So how did it happen? How did it come about? Being outdoors with the dogs is my survival mechanism. There’s something about being in the company of animals that gives a walk a special rhythm. You feel somehow even more connected to your landscape. Dogs are so curious too, they have this astonishing sense of smell, so they go off on their own little missions. And they’re always so joyful. When you’re walking up a big bugger of a hill and the dogs are just scampering up with their four-paw drive you think ‘OK, I’ve got to keep going!’. When you’re being a bit pathetic they just look at you as if to say ‘Come on!’

You’ve made programmes in some amazing parts of the world. What makes coming home so special? The wonderful thing about the UK is that there are bits of it to suit every mood. I absolutely love living in Wales. The Wye Valley is staggeringly beautiful. But sometimes you’re in the mood for something a bit harsher, a bit rougher, and I love Dartmoor – it can be quite daunting, but it’s a stunning landscape. We’re blessed with a really fantastic and varied coastline too. I’m planning some proper long-distance walks this year. I want to walk the whole of the Wye Valley, starting at the source and walking home. It’s 176 miles – me and Teg are going to do that together. Kate’s book Friend For Life: The Extraordinary Partnership Between Humans and Dogs is out now 9

Stepping Out: Dog friendly

Hear that? The thumping tail? That’s the sound of one very happy dog. Yes, the time has come - we’re pleased to announce that it’s now possible for you to bring your pooch while staying with YHA. Dogs and their owners can now stay at 44 YHA Camping & Cabins sites, as well as at 14 of our Exclusive Hire properties. It costs an extra £5 a night when you’re bringing your four-legged friend to a pod, cabin, tipi or bell tent – and nothing if you’re using the pitch-up facilities available at 40 of our hostels. They’re even allowed in our cafes. For exclusive hire, meanwhile, it's £40 per dog for the duration of the booking. There are a few small stipulations – but nothing too ruff. We prefer dogs which are as well behaved as their human pals, and they’ll need to meet our code of conduct in terms of being micro-chipped and fully vaccinated. They also need to be kept on a lead at all times. Just as crucially, of course, we know that bringing a content canine on holiday is hugely important to many of you. Having a dog by your side is a fantastic way of exploring some of the best countryside England and Wales has to offer – and we’re sure Fido would agree. For more information, visit yha.org.uk/ woofhostel 10

Canine comforts

Five for Fido Find dog heaven at these fantastic hostels YHA South Downs Ensconced in the folds of the South Downs, this hostel is brilliantly placed for hilly walks. There are camping pods available for pooches. YHA Holmbury St Mary Set in the Surrey Hills, with 4,000 acres on the doorstep, your dog will be in heaven. Camping, bell tents and Exclusive Hire are all on offer. YHA Stratford upon Avon To bark, or not to bark: that is the question. The deluxe camping pods in this Shakespeare Country hostel welcome dogs. YHA Hawkshead Tipis, campsite and camping pods at this scenic Lake District hostel are all available for dogs and their families. The perfect base for Lakeland walks. See page 16 for some inspiration. YHA Manorbier Is that a Welsh Terrier? This Pembrokeshire hostel and campsite welcomes dogs to enjoy the wild Welsh coast.

Stepping Out: Rafting 2012, it now offers a multitude of activities for all levels and ages. There are all manner of crafts you can sit in or cling to around the course, from canoes and rafts to two-man inflatable kayaks. There’s also a large lake for stand-up paddle boarding, and a rather fun-looking assault course. We see families, school groups, couples and corporate groups on days out. A few young kids are playing on the ‘beach’. We even spot a few members of the Team GB canoe squad.

Riding the rapids Close to YHA London Lee Valley is a world-class sporting venue for all abilities “FORWARD! FORWARD!” our instructor Tom is screaming from behind us. We pull our paddles as hard as we can through the raging water. Ahead of us, the current flows off at speed, before plummeting and churning into a maelstrom of white water. There are a couple of gasps around the raft before we lurch forward down the rapid. Those near the front get a huge soaking. “FORWARD! FORWARD!” Tom bellows again. We paddle again towards the next rapid. Eight big grins are now fixed around the boat.

The Olympic course is a roughly circular ‘river’, fed by four huge pumps that pelt swirling water around the circuit. A conveyor belt transports canoes and rafts, roller coaster-like, to the top of the course before sending the vessels – and you – loose down the rapids. You’ll have been given a swim test and safety briefing, of course, and lifeguards around the bank ensure that if you do become, er, de-rafted, and escape the grasps of your raft-mates, it won’t be long before you’re hauled to safety. It’s all ludicrous fun, and amazing to think that it’s only 20 minutes from Liverpool Street in central London. I return to YHA London Lee Valley a bit soggy, but still unable to wipe the daft grin. gowhitewater.co.uk

I’ve come to Lee Valley White Water Centre in Waltham Cross, north London, to raft the Olympic course while staying at YHA London Lee Valley, less than two miles away. Five years on from hosting the canoe slalom at London 11

Stepping Out: Triathlon

Tri this for size YHA has teamed up with British Triathlon to launch a series of new triathlon events over the months ahead Get your swimming togs, bikes and trainers at the ready. We’re delighted to announce the launch of a major new partnership between YHA (England & Wales) and British Triathlon – and we want you to be a part of it. The joint initiative is aimed at encouraging more beginners to take up the sport, by combining YHA’s uniquely located properties with the specialist knowhow of British Triathlon. We’ve teamed up to stage a series of GO TRI events across the year, the first of which took place at YHA Patterdale in the Lake District on 8 April.

For a sport which only coined its name in the 1970s, its popularity has become huge. Why? Put simply, it's a brilliant way of improving fitness. Triathlon is one of the fastest growing sports in the country, and this has been designed as the perfect chance for all ages to get involved and enjoy the experience. 12

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YHA boasts venues in some of the country's most stunning locations

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If you find the idea of combining swimming, cycling and running into a single challenge a little daunting, you’re not alone. That’s why we’ve gone out of our way to make sure that distances are manageable (think a 200-metre swim, a 5km cycle and a 2km run) and courses are novice-friendly. And if you don’t fancy doing the full tri, then no sweat – there are also options for duathlons (cycling and running) and aquathlons (swimming and running).

“YHA boasts venues in some of the county’s most stunning locations and we couldn’t be more excited to begin this journey alongside them,” says Jack Buckner, CEO of British Triathlon. “We will have the ability to grow the sport by offering even greater participation opportunities across England and Wales to brand new communities.”

Hall of fame YHA Hartington Hall got a dose of Olympic stardom earlier this year when champion triathletes Alistair and Jonny Brownlee spent a few nights at the property. The Yorkshire-born brothers – who have a combined medal haul of two golds, a silver and a bronze and are quite probably the most down-to-earth Olympians on the planet – used their time in the Peak District to fit in a spot of training. “It’s a beautiful place to stay – we’re getting well looked after,” said younger brother Jonny, speaking in the hostel grounds. “Some nice food, and we’ve been for a nice run in the fields. It’s a great place to ride from too. We’ve stayed in Youth Hostels quite a bit. We’ve been to a few in the Lake District before as well.” If you see a pair of familiar-looking blokes heading out for a run the next time you’re staying with us, here’s a quick tip – don’t try to keep up with them. The following dates and locations have been announced for GO TRI events: 23rd May YHA Keswick, 20th June YHA London Lee Valley (women only), 16th July YHA National Forest, 12th September YHA London Lee Valley (women only), 19th September YHA Keswick, 17th October YHA Keswick. For more information, go to yha.org.uk/gotri 13

Stepping Out: Hostellers’ Q&A We spoke to three outdoor enthusiasts to get their thoughts on dorms, dinners and day-walks

Steve Chapman Manager at YHA Ravenstor and avid mountain biker

Want to appear here in the next issue? Email your interest to livemoreyha@yha.org.uk

Countryside, city or coast?

Favourite hostel?

Earliest YHA memory?

It’s got to be the countryside for me, ideally in amongst the hills or mountains, anywhere with potential adventures on the doorstep. If there’s great weather too, that’s a bonus. I would have to go for YHA Idwal Cottage, such a cosy and welcoming environment – the perfect place to relax before taking on the challenges of climbing Tryfan and The Glyders. My father taking myself and a friend to YHA Ystumteun, a remote hostel in the hills above Aberystwyth. The toilets were at the bottom of the garden, and unlit at night!

Ideal overseas destination?

Whistler in Canada, due to its abundant array of insane mountain bike terrain. Find a local to show you around – the Rockwork Orange trail is not to be missed.

Perfect hostel dinner?

You can’t beat a burger, loaded with bacon and cheese, outside in the evening sunshine with a cold beer and a few friends, sharing stories from a big day out.

An item to pack?

Gloves, gloves and more gloves! You cannot beat the feeling of putting on a pair of warm, dry gloves. I carry at least one spare set in my bag at all times.

A book for a rainy day?

Not technically a book, but I love studying maps. Although the rain wouldn’t stop me going out, so I would probably be out on the bike enjoying a soaking.

Favourite day-walk?

Wetherlam, Lake District. With its more prestigious cousins attracting more crowds, this is a great fell with loads of nooks and crannies to explore. I seem to end up there every time I’m in the Lakes.

Stepping Out: Hostellers’ Q&A Charlotte Thompson

Mariska Helweg-Larsen

Volunteer with Fix The Fells fixthefells.co.uk

Oxford-based outdoor enthusiast

Countryside and coast are both great for walking and swimming.

Having grown up in the Netherlands I have always craved mountains. Now with a little child the coasts are wonderful to explore.

YHA Borrowdale. Great walking, plenty of Fix The Fells routes to maintain and good swim spots. Plus my favourite little Wainwright, Castle Crag, is on the doorstep.

We had an amazing time at YHA Treyarnon Bay on the Cornish coast. We could see glorious golden sunsets over the sea every night out of the dining room windows.

Staying in YHA Ambleside in my twenties and the air being 60% body-spray from the group of teenagers staying at the same time.

The first Youth Hostel I went to was in New York – not strictly YHA. I think the first one in the UK I went to was at Coniston.

I’ve yet to get to New Zealand and Norway but they would be my ideals, for walking, swimming and exploring.

We had a fantastic time in Norway a couple of years ago, trekking hut to hut in the mountains while our toddler was still small enough to carry.

A hearty stew followed by fruit crumble and custard.

Something hearty after a long day out and about.

A bikini and a towel – there are always places to swim.

On really remote walks without mobile phone reception and with a child in tow we’ve been taking a PLB (personal locator beacon).

My current favourite is Wild Places by Robert Macfarlane.

I don’t usually bring a book with me. I like browsing the magazines and books that are in the hostels and playing games.

I’ll pick my last route with Fix The Fells which was Mardale Head to Nan Bield and Blea Water then back, with a shovel and some great company.

A good walk to do with kids is one we did at YHA Treyarnon Bay, walking south to Bedruthan Steps. It’s not too steep and the views are great. You can get a bus back.

Feature: Lakes

Our favourite day walks in the

Lake District

Photos: www.golakes.co.uk

Catbells Climb

Best for: Families Hostel base: YHA Keswick Distance: approx. 3.5 miles (from Hawes End landing stage) A high, handsome hill gazing across the wide expanse of Derwentwater, Catbells provides arguably the most rewarding all-ages walk in the Lake District. Alfred Wainwright himself described it as “one of the great favourites, a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together, a place beloved”.

Make a day of it by catching the launch around the lake from Keswick and disembarking at Hawes End, from where a good path zigzags and climbs up the flank of the hill. There’s a short steeper section not long before you reach the 451-metre-high summit, but nothing to be unduly worried by, and the views from the top are superb. To continue, carry on south across Catbells before the path veers east at the Hawes Gate saddle, descending back down to the water’s edge. The final stretch is along a gentle lakeside trail.

Feature: Lakes

It can take a lifetime of commitment to cover every fell in the Lakes, and not all of us are blessed with the time. So for those saving their epic multi-day expeditions for a later date, here are five of our favourite day-hikes in England’s most imperious national park Scafell Ascent Best for: Scaling the heights Hostel base: YHA Eskdale Distance: 9 miles Lakeland visitors are often drawn to Scafell Pike, largely because it’s England’s highest mountain. There’s nothing wrong with this, of course, but it’s fair to point out that a) it’s not the most attractive fell and b) it can get crowded. So opting instead for its slightly smaller sister Scafell – just 14 metres shorter at 964 metres – can be a very smart choice, particularly on a pleasant day when it serves up fantastic panoramas of the rest of the national park. This walk from Eskdale begins at the Woolpack Inn, a five-minute stroll from YHA Eskdale, and climbs up to Scafell via the fell-top of Slight Side on the mountain’s southern flank. There’s then the option of descending via a more westerly trail to reach the nearby village of Boot, a mile and a half from the hostel. continues overleaf IMPORTANT NOTE: These overviews give you a sense of each walk, but it's important to fully research your route before you go and take the right maps with you. Our hostel staff will be delighted to share their local knowledge and walking advice. .

Feature: Lakes

Great Gable Circular Best for: Hardened hill-walkers Hostel base: YHA Borrowdale Distance: approx. 12 miles The names given to some Lake District fells seem arbitrary or opaque. Not so the mighty Great Gable. Reaching almost 900 metres in height, it stands over the valleys in bulky majesty, solid and dependable. There are myriad routes to its summit, but this long, full-day circular from YHA Borrowdale is one of the most enticing for experienced fell-climbers. It’s absolutely

vital that you have the proper hill-walking experience – traversing its southern slopes requires a very steady nerve and strong scrambling skills, and the walk as a whole is best reserved for fine days. Needless to say, however, the rewards are spectacular, and most of the tough sections are in the first half of the hike. You’ll need to have full route details, but in broad terms you’ll ascend via Seathwaite and Stockley Bridge, and return via Green Gable, Brandreth, Grey Knotts and Honister Pass.

Need to hire a car? Co Wheels Car Club has a location at Oxenholme Station, the main railway hub for the Lake District. As an independently owned social enterprise providing low-emission, hybrid and electric cars on a pay-as-you-go basis, it’s an excellent option. co-wheels.org.uk Virgin Trains have regular services to Oxenholme, from London, Birmingham, Glasgow and elsewhere. The journey time from London Euston can be as little as 2 hours 38 minutes. virgintrains.co.uk

Ennerdale Horseshoe Best for: A mammoth undertaking Hostel base: YHA Ennerdale Distance: 18 miles Our property at YHA Ennerdale gives endless opportunity for Lakeland walks. Some are short – hostel-to-hostel hikers can reach the remote YHA Black Sail in under 90 minutes, for example – and some are long. Very long. This epic all-day route should only be attempted over summer when daylight hours are at their longest, although there are various points at which the walk can be shortened if needed – be sensible if you’re unsure. Good stamina is essential, although when you have the likes of Red Pike, High Stile, High Crag, Haystacks, Green Gable, Great Gable, Kirk Fell and Pillar to look forward to, the riches in store are phenomenal. Allow around fourteen hours between leaving the hostel and returning.

Plus... Two other superb Lake District adventures! Exploring Honister Slate Mine Hostel base: YHA Honister Hause This still-working slate mine offers a great range of activities, from via ferrata and underground tours to the nerve-wracking Infinity Bridge. honister.com Canoeing on Wast Water Hostel base: YHA Wasdale Hall The deepest lake in England is an excellent place to try out open canoeing, with experienced instructors on hand. westlakesadventure.co.uk

Haystacks Circular Best for: Wainwright enthusiasts Hostel base: YHA Buttermere Distance: 8.5 miles That Alfred Wainwright requested that his ashes be scattered close to the summit of Haystacks says it all. It might not be the largest fell in the Lakes – in fact, at 597 metres, it’s not even in the top 100 – but its crags, tarns and pleasingly nobbled appearance make it one of the best loved

in the national park. This walk from YHA Buttermere skirts the southern shore of Buttermere Lake itself before making a gradual ascent up to the summit of Haystacks and looping around the fell-top area before leading down again to Buttermere Lake, where you’ll trace the northern shore to return to the hostel. On a clear day, it’s a walk that grants superb views of the higher tops. golakes.co.uk

Bristol by bike A slow cycle around Bristol Harbour is one of the best ways to see the city’s sights for all ages, as Daniel Neilson discovers “People sometimes ask why there are no railings between the dock and the harbour,” a volunteer at Underfall Yard tells me, in that disarming Bristolian lilt. “I just tell them it’s still a working dockyard.” The Victorian steam-powered machinery that once powered the harbour’s lock system now only chugs into gear for tourists and enthusiasts, but in the buildings around Underfall Yard, Bristol’s nautical heritage lives on to the sound of clanking hammers and growling wood-saws. 20

Rope rigging is still made here, and on this weekend day in early spring today several craftspeople are working on the wooden hull

Feature: Bristol

Clockwise, from left: Bristol ferry © Destination Bristol; Detail of a Banksy mural © Morgane Bigault; The SS Great Britain's propeller © Visit England; Balloon festival © Gary Newman

wealthy on the seafaring trade, attracting great Victorian minds such as Isambard Kingdom Brunel and William Jessop, whose ‘floating harbour’ allowed Bristol to dock thousands of ships a year. I’ve come to Bristol with my teenage sister, 21 years my junior, for a couple of days' sightseeing. She wants seahorses and cycling and I want ships and craft beer. On paper it shouldn’t work. Mum was dubious. She needn’t have worried. From the moment we step out of Bristol Temple Meads station the city is all action, a swirl of street performers, fantastical murals and noisy marketplaces that we imagine to be just as lively as they would have been two hundred years earlier. Bristol has an alternative free spirit and a verve like nowhere else I’ve experienced in Britain.

of a 40-foot boat. Tourists and couples are meandering along the dockside, taking it all in. On two wheels, we’re rolling along only marginally more quickly. Bristol is a city defined by the sea. This is a place built on the spoils of international trade: spices, tea and, it shouldn’t be forgotten, slavery. In 1497, the Venetian navigator John Cabot set off from Bristol with financial backing from Henry VII to find a new route to Asia – he found North America instead, helping to establish Bristol as a major centre for maritime expeditions. The city grew

We decide to take a cue from the city’s cyclefriendly nature and tour the sights of the harbour by bike. Walking out of YHA Bristol, set in a converted dock building, we cross a bridge and hire bikes from Cycle the City (cyclethecity.org). “Just keep the water on your left and you can’t go far wrong,” the cheerful owner tells us. We head first through the busiest part of the dockland, once a derelict wasteland and now a spectacularly regenerated area with cafes and bars inhabiting the 19th-century brick buildings. We haven't gone far before we stop off at the aquarium – who knew seahorses were so spectacularly cute? – and we take another break the fantastic hands-on science centre At-Bristol. continues overleaf 21

Feature: Bristol Wharf. It’s home to a craft beer bar run by the inventive Wild Beer Company, based nearby in Somerset. We stop for a drink, then lunch on fancy fried chicken at the pop-up restaurant next door. The afternoon holds a trip to the M Shed, a free exhibition exploring the city’s remarkable history, then we're back at YHA Bristol for coffee and cake.

The crowds thin out as we head west, past the houseboats, barges and sailing vessels that still use the harbour. At the Create Centre, we spend a while at the Ecohome – an oh-soBristol sustainable showhouse built to tie in with the city’s European Green Capital stint in 2015 – then head around to Underfall Yard to admire the steam engineering of the old locks (me) and buy a West Country ice cream (my sister – OK, me too). Onto the following morning, and my highlight of the weekend. The SS Great Britain was Brunel’s masterpiece, and the first iron-hulled steam boat ever built. It’s been restored in its original dry dock, after being found rotting in the Falkland Islands, and has been recreated to look like it would in a 1840s voyage. Open a door and the ship’s surgeon is treating a bloody arm. Pop into the galley and you’re greeted by the sounds and smells of a feast for the first-class passengers. And is that a Victorian rat I spot? We head back towards the centre, and one of Bristol’s newest developments, Wapping

A study released earlier this year named Bristol as the best place to live in the UK, and even as a visitor, it’s not hard to see why. Fittingly for somewhere synonymous with everyone from Brunel to Banksy, it’s a city that makes it easy to keep different generations entertained. My sister and I are testament to that. Join us next time Mum? visitbristol.co.uk

Fantastic festivals Bristol artist Michelle Townsend suggests three great festivals Grillstock Good barbecue, good music, good beer – what’s not to like? 1-2 July, grillstock.co.uk/festival Bristol Balloon Fiesta It’s an iconic and beautiful spectacle, especially when they are over the Clifton Suspension Bridge (see picture on page 20) 10-13 August, bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

Subsonic Weekender This three-day camping festival is just so much fun. This year there is an aquatic theme. 19-21 May, subsonicweekender.co.uk michelletownsend.co.uk

We stop for a drink, then lunch on fancy fried chicken at the pop-up restaurant next door 22

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Top: YHA Bristol Left: M Shed © Visit England

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Feature: Days Out

9 hostels for brilliant day-trips taking the chance to With the days getting longer, we’re ls ideally placed for tophighlight some of the many hoste m cultural and historical notch activities and attractions – fro great outdoors treasures to adrenaline thrills in the

YHA New Forest for... Beaulieu National Motor Museum

Reopening in May 2017 after a five-month upgrade and refurbishment, including the addition of some new ensuite rooms, this serene New Forest retreat is a perfect spot for a short break. The hiking, cycling and horse-riding are all first-class – and as if that weren’t enticement enough there’s also a cider farm less than ten minutes’ walk away. As a further boon, the hostel sits less than half an hour’s drive from the award-winning National Motor Museum at Beaulieu, where more than 250 vehicles from through the ages are on permanent show.

Feature: Days Out

YHA Rowen for... Surf Snowdonia

YHA Milton Keynes for… Xscape

YHA Rowen occupies a beautifully secluded Welsh farmhouse. It’s very much somewhere suited to unwinding – so stands in complete contrast to the pulse-quickening thrills on offer at the superb Surf Snowdonia, under five miles away. Built on the site of a former aluminium factory and open since 2015, it’s the UK’s only artificial surfing lake.

A converted 18th-century farmhouse in Milton Keynes? Isn’t it all modern estates and concrete cows? Well, no (although the famous bovines are only a short walk away). The hostel sits in Bradwell, an ancient village that forms part of today’s city. It’s also just three miles from Xscape, where attractions include indoor skydiving, climbing walls and an indoor ski slope.

YHA London Thameside for… The Tower of London

YHA Beverley Friary for… Hull City of Culture

Sitting pretty after a refurbishment, this modern riverside hostel is well placed as a family sightseeing base for forays around the city. It gives the chance to follow the Thames Path on a 40-minute stroll from the hostel to Tower Bridge, where you can cross to visit the Tower of London. The attraction runs events and activities during school holidays.

Six centuries ago the magnificent YHA Beverley Friary was home to Dominican friars, and its medieval roots are so strong that the building was mentioned in the Canterbury Tales. It makes a great place to stay to enjoy nearby Hull’s stint as UK City of Culture 2017. Beverley station is five minutes from the hostel, and has regular 15-minute trains into the city.

Feature: Days Out

YHA Kings for... Coed Y Brenin Mountain Biking Centre

YHA York for... Jorvik Viking Centre

YHA Kings makes a great base for exploring southern Snowdonia. Castles, steam railways and the village of Portmeirion are all close by – and so too is the UK’s first dedicated mountain bike trail centre. A 25-minute drive from the hostel brings you to Coed Y Brenin, where an extensive network of singletrack trails caters for all levels. There are hire facilities on site.

The April reopening of the Jorvik Viking Centre – badly damaged by 2015 floods – gives an excellent reason to visit York this year. The attraction has benefited from a full £4m renovation, and uses real artefacts to bring to life the story of the Norsemen that once lived on the site. It’s located a half-hour walk along the River Ouse from YHA York.

YHA Cheddar for... Cheddar Gorge

YHA St Paul's for... St Paul’s Cathedral

This Victorian house in the Somerset Mendips enjoys a mighty fine location, with Cheddar Gorge on the doorstep. Britain’s biggest gorge has 120-metrehigh cliffs and offers caves, hiking trails and rock-climbing. The 2017 South West Outdoor Festival takes place in Cheddar Valley between the 8th-10th September. And look, no cheese puns. Call us extra mature.

Hostels don’t get much more historic than YHA St Paul’s, which spent almost a century as a choristers’ school. It even still has a woodpanelled classroom, complete with age-old graffiti. And those bells you can hear? St Paul’s Cathedral is barely 100 metres away. Staying so close gives the ideal chance to beat the crowds.

FREEDOM TO MOVE

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How to...

H Wto...

Skills for outdoor living

… find the best weather forecast There’s a reason the British are obsessed with the weather: namely because it’s so unpredictable. And in a mountain environment, the weather patterns are even more changeable and localised. On one side of Snowdon the weather can be beautiful, while in the next valley it can be cloudy, wet and several degrees colder. So for hillwalking purposes, a general TV forecast is just too general. You don’t have to be a meteorologist to stay safe in the mountains, of course, but it pays to be aware of the more essential weather services. Here are the ones we use all the time. Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) Number one on our list for hillwalkers is the indispensable MWIS forecast. A dedicated team of forecasters produce a three-day forecast for nine mountain areas across the UK including the Lake District, Snowdonia, the Brecon Beacons and a joint forecast for the Peak District & Yorkshire Dales. It also gives a chance in percentage terms for cloud free summits. The forecast gets updated at least once daily. mwis.org.uk Met Office mountain weather forecast As well as MWIS, we always look at the Met Office’s mountain weather forecast. It highlights seven areas across Britain, including 28

all of those mentioned above. It is easy to read and focuses on weather hazards, as well as hill fog and wind. The site also has some useful articles and tips on the outdoors. metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/mountainforecast Mountain Forecast This impressive website has forecasts focussing on specific mountains around the world, an interesting proposition. It offers an in-depth forecast of everything you’ll need, plus a weather model that allows it to forecast the climate at different elevations. It’s advanced, although beginners will still glean useful information from it. mountain-forecast.com XCWeather Of course, we’re not all in mountainous areas. This nationwide forecast also includes a weather outlook for coastal areas and other points across Britain. It fits in an impressive amount of detail, including wind, temperature, weather, visibility and pressure conditions for every couple of hours. xcweather.co.uk

… take amazing photos with your smartphone Thanks to the rise and rise of the smartphone, great photography no longer requires costly specialist equipment. OK, so we’re not going to run a cover picture taken on an iPhone (yet), but with a little thought and some nifty technology, it’s relatively easy to take images that make a serious impact on Instagram and Facebook. Here are a couple of tips. 1. Compose your shot. Just because you can crop it later doesn’t mean you should ignore the composition now. First, choose whether to shoot a landscape (phone on its side), portrait (upright) or an Instagram-friendly square. Then remember the rule-of-thirds – the noughts and crosses grid that appears on most smart phones is designed for it. Try placing the point of interest in one of the four places the lines cross, rather than just plonking the subject in the middle. 2. T hink exposure. Once you’ve composed your shot, many phones allow you to adjust the exposure before shooting. Avoid overly exposed sky – clouds often provide most interest in a landscape picture. Try to get it right before snapping away. 3. Don’t overuse filters. Apart from being a little cliched, use of a filter can also make the final shot look artificial. Instead use a good photoediting app such as the super easy-to-use Snapseed to subtly tune the image. 3 best photography apps Snapseed The most user-friendly photoediting app out there. ProCamera Turn your smartphone into an SLR (well, sort of) with this app. Instagram Not much rivals Instagram for inspiration and sharing.

… buy walking shoes Buying walking shoes can be daunting. There are dozens of different types available: boots, sandals, cramponcompatible, approach, three-season, trail and so on. We’ve tried to demystify the process with this flow-chart based on usage. Once you’ve found the right style, we’d advise buying in a dedicated outdoor store rather than online – it gives you a better chance of finding the perfect fit. Are you a runner? YES NO Do you run off road? YES NO You’ll need a good You’ll need specific pair of regular mountain runrunning shoes. For ning shoes that have a example, the Asics great grip on them. For Gel Pursue 3. example, the Salomon Speedcross 4. Will you be walking in winter? YES NO For mountains in the winter, you’ll need very stiff boots that can safely be worn with walking crampons. For example, the B2 Scarpa Men's Charmoz Mountain Boots. Will you be walking in the mountains? YES NO You’ll need a sturdy pair of leather or fabric boots with fairly stiff soles and strong ankle support. Most come with waterproof membranes inside, such as the Hanwag Tatra GTX Do you want waterproof shoes? NO YES If your feet run warm, If you mainly walk or you don’t mind wet in summer but hate feet, consider some wet feet, find a pair of lightweight fabric shoes lightweight, breathable trail shoes without a wawith a waterproof terproof membrane. To membrane. Go for ‘mids’ that have a bit of go really lightweight, try trail-running shoes, like ankle support too, like the Salewa Ultra Train. Keen Oakridge boots.

Gear: Cool stuff

Lowe Alpine Tensor 23 Backpack An excellent all-round daypack that can be used for walking, scrambling, multi-pitch climbing and skiing. It has a 23-litre capacity, a large external mesh pocket and sidecompression straps. Its light, ripstop fabric is further selling point. lowealpine.com/uk

Salewa Pedroc Alpha Sweater A wind-resistant, breathable technical menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweatshirt using Polartec Alpha insulation, designed for speed hiking, and other highoctane activities. Super comfortable, and has two outer zipped pockets. A genuinely great bit of kit. salewa.co.uk

Hi Gear Balance Baselayer A short-sleeved, well priced baselayer from Go Outdoors, made using a high-wicking, quick-drying fabric that draws moisture away from the skin as you sweat. Lowprofile seams mean no chafing. Available for men and women. gooutdoors.co.uk

Keen Versago A lightweight hybrid sports shoe with many performance features, designed to be used on the trail and around town. Has an engineered mesh upper, a sock-like fit and good stability, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well suited to spring/ summer hiking. keenfootwear.com

Lightweight, compact Vibram ® WTC sole for solid yet forgiving walkability.

Flex Collar for natural ankle motion and comfort during descents.

3F System for ankle flexibility, heel support and a blister-free fit.

Bilight Technology midsole provides ergonomic hold and long-lasting cushioning.

MOUNTAIN TRAINER THE SUMMIT IS ONLY HALFWAY Built for the summit and back. The Mountain Trainer’s midsole features ergonomic Bilight Technology that cradles your foot and offers long-lasting cushioning, enabling you to go further, for longer. SALEWA’s Flex Collar helps promote natural ankle movement for extended comfort, even on descents with a heavy pack. salewa.com

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YHA Gower YHA Grasmere Butharlyp Howe YHA Grinton Lodge YHA Hartington Hall YHA Hathersage YHA Hawes YHA Hawkshead YHA Haworth YHA Hawse End YHA Helmsley YHA Helvellyn YHA Holmbury YHA Honister Hause YHA Hunstanton YHA Idwal Cottage YHA Ilam Hall YHA Ingleton YHA Ironbridge Coalbrookdale YHA Ironbridge Coalport Isle of Wight Brighstone YHA YHA Jordans Jo YHA Keswick YHA Kettlewell YHA Kings YHA Kington YHA Lands End YHA Langdale YHA Langdon Beck YHA Leominster YHA Littlehampton YHA Litton Cheney YHA Liverpool YHA Lizard YHA Llanddeusant YHA Llangattock YHA London Central YHA London Earls Court YHA London Lee Valley YHA London Oxford Street YHA London St Pancras YHA London St Pauls YHA London Thameside YHA Lulworth Cove YHA Malham YHA Manchester YHA Mankinholes YHA Manorbier YHA Medway YHA Milton Keynes YHA Minehead MOR Lodge YHA National Forest YHA New Forest YHA Newport Pembrokeshire 34

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