Frugal Magazine by Livia Guérin

Summer 2017

Mother of Dragons

Traveling with kids can be expensive but that doesn’t mean you have to lose all yoursavings over it.

100

Unexpected Beauty

106

We all Lie

I expected a dreary, ex-communist city but instead found a multi-cultural, fast growing, and modernizing city. This is how the Bulgarian capital entertained me during my stay.

Who among us hasn’t told a white lie about how spectacular their vacation was - even when parts of it weren’t? here are some common travel fibs we all tell.

frugal / in this issue

Table of content

frugal / in this issue

human agriculture 12. Versalle in latvia 16. Cool Parliament? 18. Guggenheim Effect in Bilbao 20. Regal Vienna got calves? 24. The Eagle’s Nest 28. A view from the gods 30. Hidden Romania 32. A 30 day hike?! 34. Up in the air short breathers 38. Tasteful Córdoba 42. Polish Break 46. Cultural Austria romeos + juliets 52. UNESCO Worthy Love 54. Beach Strolls 58. Lover’s Island 60. No More trouble makers 62. Children’s Prague 70. Portugese Awe 72. Hogwarts in Spain 74. An Island of Fun 78. KIddie Travel secrets stash 84. Stop Believing it 86. World of Friends 88. Always Safe features 92. Mother of Dragons 100. Unexpected Beauty 106. We all Lie

frugal / in this issue

Rachel Cusk Writer

Matt Hranek Photographer

Eagle’s Nest p. 22

Lover’s Island p. 56

Mother of Dragons p. 90

What dish would you travel for? I’d go to central Sweden for breakfast at Faviken Magasinet, which is a bit like stepping into a magical forest. A tea of wild herbs accompanied a moss nest of local duck eggs tucked besides a bowl of cured reindeer with acid-green pine salt.

Best souvenir from a recent trip? My favorite place to go on holiday is southern Crete. The house where we stay in the White Mountains is very wild, so much so that it can be quite hard to relate the experiences to our normal lives. Last time, we brought back a seed packet of local herbs. The plants are astonishingly evocative and potent in my New York kitchen.

Favorite travel ritual? My first stop in Milan, before the fashion shows, even before I go to my hotel, is always the Autogrill en route from the airport. I’m talking about the truck stop right off the autostrada, where they make a flawless ham and cheese on toast and a perfect cappuccino. It fortifies me for a long day of presentations.

Contributors

Andrea Gentl Photographer

frugal / in this issue

Letter from the

Editor W

e’ve all heard the comments. We’ve all had these conversations with the holier than thou backpackers who wax poetic about how little money they have spent on their trips. We see them comment on Facebook or Twitter or in the comment sections of articles. You know the ones. Those travelers who clearly think they’re better than you because they spent less money on their travel than anyone else in the room. We absolutely promote the idea of budget travel, there is a massive difference between traveling on a budget and just being downright cheap. BootsnAll is full of budget travel articles and tips for making the most of your trip with the money you have, and in my eyes, that’s what budget travel is all about. It’s not about who can spend the least. Usually when someone goes on a long-term trip, he or she has to sacrifice to do so. We forego nights at the bar or meals out. We bypass that concert, or ball game, in order to save more money. Saving for a trip, no matter the length, can be hard work. We did without a lot for 18 months to be able to save for our RTW trip. I stopped fretting about money so much, even if that meant we had to come home sooner. Budget travel is not about who can spend the least amount of money or who can travel in Thailand on $10/day. It’s not about finding the cheapest, grubbiest room. It’s not about eating ramen noodles for all your meals and sitting in the hostel common room watching a movie while everyone else is out having drinks and dancing. Budget travel is all about getting the most value for your money while you’re on the road. There is no monetary value attached to the phrase “budget travel.” If someone sacrificed what they consider to be comforts and still spent $40/day in Laos, then that’s budget travel for that person. Just because you did it on $10/day doesn’t make your experience more authentic, or indie, or better. There are many different types of travelers. Some would never think of setting foot in a hostel. Some would never think of paying more to stay in a hotel. Some prefer to eat out at decent restaurants on the road. Some only eat at street carts and cook their own meals. Some always do guided tours. Some never do. Our society likes to label everything, and that’s fine. Budget travel, like all types of travel, isn’t a black and white definition – there’s a huge amount of gray in there, too. And you certainly aren’t a better traveler because you spend less money than the guy next to you.

frugal / human agriculture

10. Versalle in latvia, 14. Cool Parliament?, 16. Guggenheim Effect in Bilbao, 18. Regal Vienna

Human agriculture

frugal / human agriculture

Versaille IN LaTvia

Discover the beautiful Palace that was used to shoot some of the scenes in the awards winning movie: War and Peace by King Vidor. by Martin Russels

undale Palace is one of Latvia’s most outstanding architectural landmarks a Baroque period ensemble complete with palace, stables and garden-park. It is situated on the Zemgale lowland, preserving the original idea of the architect the palace in the centre, symbolising the power of the king, and alleys stretching out into infinity. The palace is given special value by its united artistic design. The architectural formations and paintings have been damaged by time, but left untouched by the wars and reconstructions of modern times. Three buildings and two crossing buildings form a reception yard, and the palace and stalls - a yard for carriages. The south side features a 10 hectare

Baroque park, the so-called French garden, which starts with alleys and changes into a forest garden - a former hunting garden containing a gardener’s house. The total area encompasses 72 hectares, including a part of the former manor’s territory with a public house building and pond. Since 1972 the palace has been home to a museum, which has also been carrying out restoration works on the building and park. Out of the total of 43 rooms, 12 are now open in the eastern wing; among them the White dance hall and the Golden throne room; 15 in the central block - the duke’s private and official rooms; and 7 in the western block - the duchess’ apartments, as well as 4 staircases and 2 kitchens.

Most of the interior decorations were created by the sculptor J.M.Graff and artists F.Martini and C.Zucchi. Sadly, the Duke’s former living quarters and the Duchess’ apartments are not included in the tours. The palace offers thematic exhibitions and a few permanent expositions. Some rooms are being arranged for an exposition on European applied art on the 1st floor of the palace’s western wing. Exhibitions are also presented in the gardener’s house. The French garden features an ornamental parterre, three pools with fountains, a green theatre, and Dutch and Blue boskets. Since 2005 a Rose garden is being created. New pathways are under construction in the park.

frugal / human agriculture

ose garden The bosquets feature an impressive, almost one hectare large, rose garden that spreads on both sides of the parterres. The garden reflects the history of cultivating roses in Europe from the early 18th century through to the present. Green amphitheatre A “green amphitheatre” has been set up in one of the bosquets, following Rastrelli’s original design and the still remaining relief shapes. The venue was launched on 11 July 2004 with the performance of Georg Friedrich Händel’s opera, Rinaldo. Fountains In front of the palace, Rastrelli’s design envisaged three fountains which did not fit well in the 18th century; instead, the fountains were replaced by water basins. The central pool is enclosed by four ornamental parterres, reconstructed after Rastrelli’s design, and consisting of surfaces covered with chips of brick and white marble, and a lawn, all edged in trimmed boxwood hedging.

“The palace is given special value by its united artistic design. ˮ Although the tour through the Rundale Palace isn’t free, it isn’t expensive either. The long route tour includes the staterooms (the White Hall, Gold Hall, and Grand Gallery), the Duke’s former living quarters and staterooms, and the Duchess’ apartments; and the tour costs € 4.80, for Adults between the months of November and March, and € 6.00, for Adults between the months of April and October, while the entry is free for all children under the age of 5. However, the Rundale Palace offers a family ticket of € 10.00, for 1 adult with 2 to 4 school-aged children, and € 13.00, for 2 adults with 2 to 4 schoolaged children. The Palace also offeres a combined tour which includes the long route and the full garden: this costs € 6.50, for Adults in the months of May and October, and € 9.00, for Adults between the months of June and September. We must also remind our readers that it is absolutely illegal to take photos or videos without purchasing a permit; these cost € 2.00 for photos and €5.00 for videos.

The seat of the German Parliament is the most famous landmark in Berlin. by Maxime LeDall

Cool Parlament?

frugal / human agriculture

he Reichstag building is a historical edifice in Berlin, Germany, constructed to house the Imperial Diet of the German Empire. It was opened in 1894 and housed the Diet until 1933, when it was severely damaged after it was set on fire. The ruined building was made safe against the elements and partially refurbished in the 1960s, but no attempt at full restoration was made until after German reunification on 3 October 1990, when it underwent a reconstruction led by architect Norman Foster. After its completion in 1999, it once again became the meeting place of the German parliament: the modern Bundestag. In today’s usage, the German word Reichstag (Imperial Diet Building) refers mainly to the building, while Bundestag (Federal Diet) refers to the institution. Conducted tours suitable for children are available on request on a daily basis. School pupils from the 10th grade can learn about how the German Bundestag (National Parliament) works by means of

the simulation game “Learning Parliamentary Democracy through Play”. There is also a diverse programme for pupils offered. In any case early registration is required. Admittance is free of charge. The dome and the roof terrace are only open for registered visitors (min 2 days in advance). Please register at www.bundestag.de. From June 26 onwards, the dome can also be visited without online registration.Visitors to the dome can register themselves for admission in the new service center in Scheidemannstraße (at least two hours before the visit depending on free capacities).You can also register to visit the dome for the following two days. The service center is opened daily from 8am to 8pm.You can also combine an exciting city tour through Berlin with the visit of the Reichstag. We are offering a range of tours and tickets online, where you can find both bus and walking tours showing the best views of the city.

frugal / human agriculture

Guggenheim effect in bilbao Not by accident, certainly by design, this city’s belief in the allure of beauty has made it famous. by: Patricia Harris

ilbao and the Basque regional government launched several ambitious infrastructure projects to improve transportation and clean up abandoned industrial sites, but they placed their biggest bet on culture. To put Bilbao on the world map, they spent more than $100 million to partner with New York’s Guggenheim Museum, which was shopping for overseas satellite locations. The Bilbao Fine Arts Museum (Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao, in Spanish) is an art museum located in the city of Bilbao, Spain. The building of the museum is located entirely inside the city’s Doña Casilda Iturrizar park. It is the second largest and most visited museum in the Basque Country, after the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum and one of the richest Spanish museums outside Madrid. It houses a valuable and quite comprehensive collection of Basque, Spanish and European art from the Middle Ages to contemporary, including paintings by old masters like El

Greco, Cranach, Murillo, Goya,Van Dyck, Ruisdael and Bellotto, together with 19th century and modern: Sorolla, Mary Cassatt, Gauguin, Henri Le Sidaner, James Ensor, Peter Blake and Francis Bacon. In its role as a public cultural entity, the main mission is to collect, preserve, study and exhibit its own collection, pursue their enrichment, maintain services and promote quality activities in order to contribute decisively to the education of the society and projection of the cultural values of the Basque Autonomous Community. Notable for the lengthy period it covers (from the 12th century to the present day) and the extraordinary variety of art works acquired since its inception, the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum collection currently boasts more than ten thousand works including 1,500 paintings, 400 sculptures, more than 6,500 works on paper and 1,000 pieces of art applied.

The Museum of Fine Arts Bilbao is open Wednesday to Monday from 10am to 8pm, expect for December 24th and 31st where the museum is open from 10am to 2pm (unless it falls on Tuesday, then it is closed). The tickets are always free for children under the age of 12, teachers, journalists, guides, disables, unemployed, and for everyone else Wednesdays from 10am to 3pm and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm.

frugal / human agriculture

Regal Vienna

The proclaimed UNESCO World Heritage site, Schönbrunn

Palace, gives us a glimpse on royal life in the 14th century.

chönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn, in German) is a former imperial summer residence located in Vienna, Austria. The 1,441-room Baroque palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural, and historical monuments in the country. Since the mid1950s it has been a major tourist attraction. The history of the palace and its vast gardens spans over 300 years, reflecting the changing tastes, interests, and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs. The park at Schönbrunn Palace was opened to the public around 1779 and since then has provided a popular recreational amenity for the Viennese population as well as being a focus of great cultural and historical interest for international visitors. Extending for 1.2 km from east to west and approximately one kilometre from north to south, it was placed together with the palace on the UNESCO list of World Heritage

by:

Katie Amey

Sites in 1996. Until 1744, there existed a historic vineyard named ‘Liesenpfennig‘ right in front of the Orangery Garden at the magnificent site of Schönbrunn Palace. The most dedicated Viennese growers‘ group WienWein resurrected this vineyard and started growing grapevine on an area of 1000 square metres. The vineyard has been designed according to the great traditional field-blend of Vienna, namely ‘ Wiener Gemischter Satz‘ – this means that grapevines of all sorts are bedded out at the same time. Since 2016 the vineyard in Schönbrunn is twinned with the Clos Montmatre (Paris) and the Vigna della Regina (Queen’s Vineyard) in Italy. Although the Classic Tour ticket (which includes all attractions) costs €24.00 and the access to the garden is free, we advise you to buy the €5,50 ticket to the Maze, and €3,80 to the Gloriette

frugal / got calves?

22. The Eagleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nest, 26. A view from the gods, 28. Hidden Romania, 30. A 30 day hike?!, 32. Up in the air

Got calves?

frugal / got calves?

The Eagles nest

Hitler’s Eagles Nest, Germany, still sits on a mountain peak high above Berchtesgaden in the Bavarian Alps. by Roger Kings

ocated atop the Obersalzberg Mountain, the Kehlsteinhaus, or Eagle’s Nest is inseparably linked with the Third Reich. Those who visit venture back into a dark period of German and Austrian history. Commissioned by Martin Bormann between 1937-1938, it is built on the summit of the Kehlstein Mountain and was given to Adolf Hitler by the Nazi Party on the occasion of his 50th birthday. The Kehlstein Mountain is part of the Berchtesgaden Alps and is 1834 meters high. Adolf Hitler visited this place only rarely, probably no more than 10 times. In 1945 the Kehlstein House was the target of an Allied bombing raid, though it was not hit. In the 1960’s the building was almost destroyed by explosives, but the

local government prevented its destruction. Instead, it became a mountain-top restaurant whose impressive construction and breathtaking views awe visitors. A museum on the property tells the history of this site.Visitors can reach the summit via a bus along the Kehlsteinstraße road. One of the most unique mountain roads in the world, it conquers the 700 meter climb in altitude with only one hair-pin curve. The Eagle’s Nest is open from May to October. All proceeds from admissions go to charitable causes. In the National Park Center “Haus der Berge” you can experience the park with all senses. Forest noises are simulated, natural phenomenon explained and stuffed animals can be touched and patted. A path leads up from the Königsee lake to the summit of

the Watzmann mountain. The message of the exhibition clearly states: see nature’s beauty - now protect and preserve it! There are numerous mountain pastures in the Klausbachtal valley, like the Bindalm. It is easy to reach by foot or with the pasture adventure bus. Cars are banned from the protected area. The pastures are used traditionally. Cattle can only be found grazing on the mountain pastures during the summer. In the autumn farmers drive them back down into the valley. Of course, while there, don’t forget to wind down by attending festivals like Oktoberfest and May Day as every town put their own twist to it.

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From spring 2018 a new cable car will take visitors up the 1,800 meter high Jenner mountain. A short walk up to the summit is rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Berchtesgaden National Park - which was founded in 1978 to ensure that nature would be able to develop unimpeded. From the Jenner summit you can see the National Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landmark Watzmann mountain and at its foot the KĂśnigsee lake.

frugal / got calves?

hen I travel to any city, I love to seek out the best views. Getting to the best view of Athens is also an opportunity to grab some fresh air and take a walk or a hike. Here’s my list of where you can enjoy panoramic views as well as a few tips I can offer as a local. Here is a list of the top 5 views in Athens so perfect that they must have been drawn by a god. 1. The Acropolis, the eternal landmark of this ancient city, owns some of the most spectacular views around. Built on a hill, with nothing built higher around it, you get an amazing panorama of the Greek capitol. 2. In ancient times Filopappos Hill, located just southwest of the Acropolis, was once known as the Mouseion or Hill of the Muses. It was believed the nine muses were buried there. Take a leisurely walk through the paths of the hill to reach its full height of 147 meters (482 ft). From that vantage point, a full view of the Acropolis awaits. Look to the south, and for a view of the Aegean Sea. The park around the hill is lovely. 3. The highest peak in Athens stands at 277 metres (910 ft) tall. So, you will definitely get the best view of Athens from here! Walking up or riding the teleferik or cable car shuttles you to the top of the Lycabettus Hill for a 360-degree vista. 4. This little hill holds a place in my heart. I used to live close to it. Sometimes, I’d run up and get my outdoor work out there.Yes, I had to jog past some discarded dodgy drug paraphernalia at times – it is right in the “alternative” neighborhood of Exarcheia – but, I assure you that Strefi Hill is very safe during the day. 5. Finally, hike around the city’s mountain range, which borders the city to the east, called Mt. Immitos.

A View From The Gods.

Filopappos Hill is the highest summit in the south of Athens at 147m and is known for its spectacular views of the Acropolis by Stephen Alvarez

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Hidden Romania Not by accident, certainly by design, this city’s belief in the allure of beauty has made it famous. by: Patricia Harris

omania is a land of natural beauty, where all types of landscapes are to be found, from mountain peaks, home to chamois and reaching 2,000m, where you can walk among alpine vegetation, to plains, coastline and the Danube Delta. The Carpathian Mountains are home to one of the largest undisturbed forests in Europe. 60% of European brown bear population lives in the Carpathian Mountains and 400 unique species of mammals, including the Carpathian chamois. You can witness extremely scenic landscapes that include gorges and defiles, caves (over 12,000), glaciar lakes, megalithic stones and waterfalls. The Carpathian Mountains cover over a third of the coutry’s territory and are forming a semi-circle around Transylvania, which one of Romania’s nine historical provinces. Romanian Carpathian Mountainsare divided into three groups: Eastern Carpathians, Southern Carpathians and Western Carpathians. The Western Carpathian Mountains are also called the Mountains of the Sunset (Muntii Apuseni). The highest peaks are in the Southern Carpathians – Moldoveanu (2544 m/8,346 feet) and Negoiu (2535 m/8,316 feet). In Romania’s many national parks, nature parks and reservations, you can see so many specimens protected by the law at European and international level you might be in a botanical museum. Romanians are famous for their hospitality in the welcome they extend to their guests.You’ll be delighted both by the welcome you receive from your hosts and the traditional food, not to mention the wide range of sporting activities you can choose from.

The Carpathian Mountains form a 1,500km-long range in Central and Eastern Europe. They stretch west to east in an arc from the Czech Republic to Romania, through Ukraine, Slovakia and Poland.

frugal / got calves?

A 30 Days Hike?! A hiking trail that takes you around the Alps and lets you travel across 8 countries amongs the most beautiful peaks in the world, and it “only” takes 30 days to hike. by: Angel Holmes

long the way, particularly in the numerous nature and national parks, the walker can experience the vast scale of the Alps, the largest natural area in Europe, and discover the rich diversity of the landscape, flora and fauna. The trail skirts some of the highest peaks along the way, such as the Triglav, Tre Cime of Lavaredo, Hochfeiler, Zugspitze, Silvretta, Bernina, Mont Blanc, the Vanoise glaciers and the Barre des Ecrins. However it also allows you to discover the rich cultural heritage of the gateway towns on or near the trails (Trieste, Monaco, Feldkirch but also Innsbruck and Briançon) and away from the crowds it meanders through the remote villages of the Julian and Carnic Alps, Ticino and Western Alps. The Via Alpina runs from Trieste, where a wide range of cultures meet – Illyrian, Roman,Venetian, Slav, and Habsburg – to the Principality of Monaco, extending

between sea and mountain, a land especially rich in history, culture and recreational opportunities. The scenery alternates between wooden chalets and stone sheep barns, mountain shelters and lively towns and villages. The Red Trail also travels through different linguistic areas, demonstrating the historical significance of the Alpine passes as trade routes. The dialects are not confined to the administrative divisions, and in addition to German, Italian, French and Slovene, Romansch and Ladin, Walser, FrancoProvençal and the Langue d’Oc can also be heard. This trail crosses the national borders 44 times, and also former borders marking the remains of the military past that remind us of how, all too often, the peaceful mountains have been the scene of long confrontations.

frugal / got calves?

appadocia is arguably the most magical place in the entire world. From breath-taking natural scenery to once in a lifetime experiences such as taking a hot air balloon ride and sleeping inside a cave, Cappadocia has something unique to offer to each visitor that comes to this fairy tale land. 1. Visit the Cave Churches of Gorem The Goreme Open Air Museum is home to many cave churches that feature breath-taking Byzantine Art but none of them is as majestic as the legendary Dark Church which has its own separate entrance fee. Exploring the complete area shouldn’t take you more than one hour and I definitely recommend you to eavesdrop the words of the tour guides as they further explain the story of the region. 2. Hike The Red Rose Valley After you’re ready to go on, go to the exit of the museum and continue walking on the Red/ Rose Valley, it’s very hard to get lost since it’s a very straight path. This valley get its name because of the fact that it changes colors from Rose to Red depending on the position of the sun. 3. Explore the Zelve Open Air Museum The Zelve Open Air Museum is the complete opposite of the one at Goreme since here you will not find splendid cave art but rather, you will experience the real life of the daily inhabitants of Cappadocia who once lived here before moving out a few decades ago.You can visit wineries, kitchens and more. 4. Be amazed with the charm of Avanos Avanos is a town best known for its pottery and most organizers tours make a quick stop here to visit the underground museum of pottery and watch a live demonstration (think of the scene in the movie Ghost only that without Patrick Swayze). However, spending half a day here will certainly bring you a smile to your face. 5. Fall in love with the hot air baloons Get up at dawn and watch them soar above the exotic landscape. Watching the colorful balloons dotting the air above is really a magical site. Sure, it’s not a comparable experience to actually being in the basket. But as a couple, you will also have an extra $400 in your pockets, which will fund an additional week of travel in Turkey at a pretty comfortable level.

Up in the Air Explore one the most beautiful place in the world at the lowest price possible: FREE! That’s how we like it. by: Raphael Alexander Zoren

frugal / short breathers

36. Tasteful Cรณrdoba, 40. Polish Break, 44. Cultural Austria

SHORT BREATHERS

frugal / short breathers

TastefulCordoba The dazzling Mezquita and a blossoming reputation as Spain’s gastronomic capital make this ancient Andalusian city hard to resist. by Robert Mayes

f the great cities of Andalusia were a flamenco troupe, Córdoba would play the cameo, the mysterious beauty appearing all too briefly before showy Seville and Granada take over again. To see Córdoba at its best, though, visit during fiesta season from April to June. The highlight is the Festival of the Patios (May 5 to 18), when homes are opened to the public to reveal flower-filled Moorish courtyards. Getting there A train from Málaga to Córdoba takes 50 minutes, from €41.20 ($44), with Renfe. Spanish Rail Service can secure discounts of up to 70 per cent with a €10 booking charge. Where to stay Almost as central, Hotel Don Paula offers excellent value with doubles from €50 ($44). On arrival 4pm Start at the Palacio de Viana (admission at €5/$5 or €8/$8.50, closed Mon), a Renaissance palace set around 12 beautiful patios with gardens and fountains to soothe the soul. 6pm It’s too early for a Spanish dinner, but not for a nibble at Garum 2.1, an award-winning tapas bar that specialises in sherry-spiked salmorejo, the local twist on gazpacho. Raise a glass of Montilla Moriles with squid croquettes in their own ink. 7.45pm After the fall of Islamic Córdoba in 1236, the Catholic kings could not bring themselves to level the exquisite Grand Mosque, so they built a church inside it. Today, the Mezquita, a vast temple of hundreds of arched marble pillars converging on a gothic cathedral, is one of the great landmarks of the world. Have it to yourself on the Soul of Córdoba night-time tour (closed Sun). 9.15pm A simple dish, anchovies on toast, is elevated to sublime heights at Puerta Sevilla, set in its own lush patio. Tomato with smoked sardine and citrus vinaigrette is simple yet startlingly good. Try the shellfish soup and Iberian pork, finished off with fondant and a glass of nutty Pedro Ximénez sherry. Then work it off with a midnight stroll along the river to the beguiling Roman Bridge. Day one  9.30am The Catholic kings put a Gothic stamp on Córdoba with their revamp of

frugal / short breathers the Alcázar, alternately a fortress and palace – and headquarters of the Inquisition. Make time for the Roman mosaics and Moorish courtyards with a particularly fine set of fountains and ponds. Noon Adjoining the Alcázar, flamenco dancers go toe-to-hoof with the famed prancing horses of Andalusia, at the Royal Stables(admission at €15/$16; children €10/$11). 1.30pm On a tree-lined boulevard, Andalusia’s “first gastro-market” Mercado Victoria (closed Mon) is shaking up the scene in a light-filled wrought-iron pavilion. The cheese, wine and jamón ibérico are superb. Sushi and even oysters feature among the stalls, while an Argentinian one is trumpeting Córdoba’s reign in 2014 as “Ibero-American capital of gastronomy”. 4pm After a siesta, head up Calleja de las Flores into a maze of streets selling silver, leather goods and pottery. Then head west into the maze of La Juderia, which offers a poignant counter-narrative to the battle of Christianity and Islam. The House of Sepharad (admission at €15/$16) chronicles the life of the philosopher Maimonides, and the persecution of the Jews under the Inquisition. Further along Calle Judios, you’ll find one of only three

medieval synagogues left in Spain. 7pm A little relaxation is in order, so why not do it like the Moors – and the Romans – at Hammam Al Andalus. Alternate between the hot and ice-cold pools for maximum effect, followed by an orange blossom oil-infused massage. 9pm Time for dinner at La Cazuela de la Esparteria, a classic taverna popular with locals. Try the fried aubergine chips in honey. ay two 10am At the Roman Bridge, the museum in the Calahorra Tower offers an alternative history lesson with a collection of “speaking statues”, models of the Mezquita and Granada’s Alhambra.

Córdoba checklist 1. Entrance to the Mezquita is free from 8.30 to 9.30am, allowing a peaceful visit before the tour groups descend. 2. Take a walking tour with Encarnacio Ávila (0034 679 572 975; info@guiaturismo.com). 3. Find official tourist advice at english (turismodecordoba.org).

A guide to short breaks in Krakow, including the best things to see and do, plus recommended bars and restaurants. by Lizzie Porter

Polish Break

frugal / short breathers

ith new flights, moving history and modern buzz, Krakow is not just about stag weekends – it makes a sophisticated city break option. For too long Krakow has had a reputation for attracting crowds of soon-to-be-tied-down gentlemen on stag weekends. It deserves better. Poland’s second city and former capital is upstanding and architecturally fine: the showpiece Wawel Castle has undergone major restoration since the country gained independence in 1918, while Rynek Glowny, supposedly Europe’s largest medieval city square, is truly superb Getting there Krakow is served multiple airlines including easyJet and Ryanair at very cheap rates, perfect for those of us trying to save a little more in travel so we can enjoy more activities. The airport is about 12km from the city centre and is served by buses 208 and 292. Where to stay Traditional rather than hip, Hotel Amadeus is central, at 20, Mikolajska St. Double rooms from 216 zlotys ($50), including breakfast. On arrival 5pm Make for the main square, specifically the north-eastern corner, home to St Mary’s Cathedral at plac Mariacki 5 (admission 10 zlotys/$2.25 or half price for

over 65s, children and students). Inside, the highlight is the pentaptych altarpiece. 6pm Krakow has a large student population. So the bars are pretty good. Try Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa at ul. Sw. Jana 3-5, a 24-hour bar with newspaper covered walls, and serving quince and plum vodkas. Shots from 4 PLN zlotys (90¢). 7.30pm Happily, there is more to Polish cuisine than sausages. Try the wild boar with juniper berries at Pod Aniolami restaurant at Grodzka 35, in a 13th-century cellar. Mains from 34.50 zlotys ($8). Day one 9.30am Head south to Wawel Hill. Seat of Polish kings for over 500 years, the Royal Castle here is a magnificent Renaissance construction. It houses state rooms and private royal apartments - particularly of note are the 30 wooden heads in the Throne Room’s coffered ceiling. Poland’s most treasured work of art, Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine is also on display here. Also on the hill is the 14thcentury Wawel Cathedral , with its icecream scoop domes.There is a complicated ticketing process for the sights on Wawel Hill.You will need one ticket for the Royal Castle and there is a separate fee for each of its five permanent exhibitions; admission from 7 zlotys ($1.50).You need to purchase another ticket for the Cathedral, which costs 12 zlotys ($2.50). 2pm The suburb of Kazimierz contains

frugal / /short frugal short breathers breathers

Krakow’s Jewish quarter. Lunch here at Hamsa at Szeroka Street 2/Miodow10, a Street 41, an Israeli “restobar” with moreish laffa bread and a “make hummus not war” attitude. Mezze platters from 35.80 zlotys ($8). 2.30pm Kazimierz is home to the Old Synagogue at Szeroka 24 ( admission 9 zlotys/$2), a striking example of the buildings that survived the war. 3.30pm Cross the Vistula to Oskar Schindler’s factory at 4 Lipowa Street (admission 19 zlotys/$3.60). It is not easy to find, but follow the street signs and you will find it past the MOCAK contemporary art gallery. This museum may be unsettling - as well as the industrialist’s story, it also goes into harrowing detail about life in Nazioccupied Krakow - but you will come away with a better sense of Poland’s situation in the Second World War. 6pm Warm up at Krakowska Manufaktura Czekolady, a chocolate shop and café at ul. Szewska 7. The array of cakes and hot drinks is extraordinary – and you can decide if the Putin chocolate figurines are tasteful or not. Cakes from 25 zlotys ($5). 8pm The restaurants around the main square may have a good view, but the food is not always reliable. Walk 10 minutes south to Pod Baranem restaurant at ul. sw. Gertrudy 2, where the service is slick. Mains from 25 zlotys ($5). ay two 10am The Nazis renamed the small town of Oświęcim, 44 miles west of Krakow, as Auschwitz in their Germanisation programme of Poland. Here they established a series of concentration camps, where at least 1.3 million people were deported. Today, visitors can see the original brick barracks at the Auschwitz I camp, and the bleak, terrible expanse of Birkenau. Displays include mounds of shoes belonging to the prisoners and 40kg of glasses, collected as plunder. Independent visitors must reserve tickets in advance through an online booking portal (visit. auschwitz.org) to guarantee access.You may find it easier to book a tour: this can be done through an operator such as Regent Holidays, who offer a coach excursion from Krakow for $30, run by CracowTours.

Checklist 1. The main tourist office is on the main square at Rynek Glowny 1-3, in the Cloth Hall. 2. Watch your step: streets are shared by cars, trams and buses, and jay walking is an offence. 3. Krakow is mainly a walkable city, but a single tram ticket costs 3.80 PLN (80¢).

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verything can quite easily be absorbed in a weekend, particularly if you stay in the old centre – and on this itinerary you are never more than half an hour on foot from your hotel. Day one 5pm Check in to the Hotel Goldgasse. While your key card is programmed, enjoy a first taste of Fürsts finest confectionery on the cake stand at the reception (try the tiny pink punch cake). 6.30pm Turning left from the door of your hotel, cross Alter Markt to enter Getreidegasse. Teeming with tourists during the day, Salzburg’s most famous street tends to quieten down in the evening as crowds of day-trippers slowly depart. Notice all the gilded, copper and iron signs hanging above shop windows, and dip into doorways, passages and courtyards to admire the medieval structures of the houses. 7.30pm Make your way over to St Peter’s Abbey for dinner. Europe’s oldest restaurant has been welcoming guests for over 1,200 years, and in the abbey’s impressive Baroque hall an entertaining Mozart Dinner Concert awaits. Day two 10am After hearing some of Mozart’s famous arias the previous evening, a visit to his place of birth is a must. There’s lots to see and read in the Mozarts Geburtshaus, and a tour of all three floors takes around an hour. Note that the facade at Getreidegasse 9 is no longer in its original state. To see what the house originally looked like, walk through the passageway to the Universitätsplatz and look back. And while on the square, take a peek into the enormous Kollegienkirche (Collegiate Church) to see Baroque architecture at its purest, and possibly one of Fischer von Erlach’s finest works. After years of extensive renovation, this jewel of a church shines once again – lean back on one of the wooden seats and gaze into the dome. Noon Head over to nearby Carpe Diem at Getreidegasse 50. Go for an outdoor table if available and the weather is good. Otherwise, have a glass of bubbly at the bar, then choose from the delicious selection of finger food – try a mix of savoury dishes or go for the three-course midday menu.

Cultural austria Salzburg’s pedestrianised Altstadt (Old Town) covers a small area and includes most of the city’s highlights. by Diane Near-Elphee

frugal / short breathers 2pm For pudding, pop along to Schatz, Salzburg’s cutest cake shop. It is invariably full of perfect pastries and patrons: share a table, it’s the done thing. I usually share my slice of cake too, not because it’s not delicious but due to its size. 3pm It’s time to head up, either on foot or by funicular, to the Hohenfestung, the medieval colossus perched above the city. Once at the top, spend a good while wandering through the courtyards, admiring the views, and taking a tour inside the chambers with an audio guide to help you find your way. 6pm Having come back down from the fortress, take a stroll through the intriguing St Peter’s Abbey cemetery. Don’t miss the curious collection of Stumpfögger family graves. 7.30pm The ancient Sternbraü is almost as legendary as Salzburg’s beer. Settle in the Stern Lounge, have a pre-dinner pint of Sternbraü’s very own unfiltered,coppercoloured ale, then order some of the seasonal, tapas-sized specials. ay three 10am Visit Salzburg’s venerable

cathedral. It is in fact located so close to your hotel that you could pop in a couple of times during your stay and notice how the look of the beautiful stuccoed interior changes according to the amount of daylight falling through the windows. Do see the majestic font where Mozart was baptised. 11am Enjoy a pleasant stroll across the River Salzach via Makartsteg footbridge, and at nearby Makartplatz enter the enchanting Mirabell Gardens. Find Pegasus Fountain: this winged-horse fountain featured in the film The Sound of Music – it’s where the Trapp juniors sang the Do-Re-Mi song. At the far end of the park, climb the few steps, then turn around to take in the view – and see why falling in love with Salzburg is so easy. 1pm From the Mirabellgarten, it’s just a five-minute walk to one of my favourite hang-outs, Café Wernbacher. This laid-back, retro-style establishment has a varied selection of goodies on the menu, and a spacious outdoor terrace. As your weekend in Salzburg comes to a close, here is a fine place to let the city’s magic sink in.

frugal / romeos + juliets

JULIETS

50. UNESCO Worthy Love, 52. Beach Strolls, 56. Loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Island, 58. No More

ROMEOS

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UNESCO Worthy love

Some European cities reveal their charms in a gradual way, but Prague wears its medieval-style loveliness right on the surface. by Roger Kings

njoy a romantic overnight getaway in the charming town of Alberobello. Begin relaxing with a glass of Prosecco and a couple’s massage. While a delicious candlelight dinner in your private trullo, continental breakfast, and brunch complete this revitalizing experience. Trulls are traditional whitewashed stone roundhouses, with conical roofs, dotted all over Puglia’s pretty countryside. They’re quirky and rustic without being twee; the right side of cool and unique. Originally built for peasants centuries ago, many have been transformed into luxurious boltholes, making them the perfect option for a romantic retreat. There are more than 1,000 trulls in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed town of Alberobello in the Itria Valley. Given its status, this town is a major tourist destination - a possible drawback for some - so look for secluded trulls outside the towns of Cisternino, Locorotondo and Martina Franca instead. Most trulls are self-catered, which risks the trip turning sour if the quibble over washing up; although there’s something heartfelt about retreating home to cook dinner together. Check out holiday accommodation sites such as Think Puglia, which have trulls to suit different budgets. If you’d rather leave cooking behind, then book a trulls hotel. Le Alcove is in the tourist hotspot of Alberobello, and its been made with couples in mind, with just a handful of trulls converted into luxury suites with king-size beds and en-suite bathrooms. to avoid the tourists, ask for the gorgeous two-story Garden Studio trulls, a 20-minute stroll from the town. Or retreat further into the hills at Masseria Fumarola, a renovated manor, where your trulls comes with a huge fireplace to snuggle up alongside during the cold winter nights (a nice detail although not super needed for this summer issue).

frugal / romeos + juliets

Beach Strolls Be in love in a city that can’t help but being the perfect romantic setting for your romance. by: Nathalie Marquez

irst things first: Dubrovnik is just naturally a romantic city. It can’t help itself. So you don’t have to try all that hard to get a loved-up buzz going. Walking the walls at sunset is usually top of people’s lists and it’s just as wonderful as every one says (that’s us above). The list below is all about the really ridiculously lovely stuff that stood out to us. The kind of wonderful adventures that make you just look at each other and laugh with the sheer giddiness of it all. Kayak around the city walls to Lokrum island and the hidden cove For a gorgeous look at the city from the water, Ben and I signed up for a kayak and snorkelling trip and paddled through crystal clear waters around Lokrum Island. It was way easier than we thought it would be, the guides were friendly and good craic, and the equipment was in perfect nick, ticking all the safety boxes. The views from the kayak looking up at the ancient city walls were just breathtaking – it took all the self control I had (not to mention common sense) not to whip out my camera. Once we had circled the pretty green island of

“Walking the walls at sunset is as wonderful as every one says.”

Lokrum, we made for a hidden cove, where I was able to go snorkelling and spotted way more fish than I expected. It was really good value for €33, which included all the equipment you needed (including snorkelling gear and waterproof barrels for valuables), as well as drinks and sambos. If you love snorkelling, I’d recommend booking something else too, as you really only get about half an hour of under water time with the fish. During late spring and summer you would have to book well in advance, as only one company seems to do these tours and they leave from right by the Pile Gate, the main entrance into the city. Sunset drinks at the secret bar built into the ancient city walls Okay, so it’s not really a secret but it super feels like one when you’re trying to find the place! I think I had walked the walls of Dubrovnik twice before being able to finally find Cafe Buza, a kind of literal holein-wall bar nestled in among the walls.You can see it quite clearly when you’re walking them, but finding it was another story. I’d love to give you some killer tip for getting there, but your best bet is to walk towards the walls on the west side of town and then ask a local to show you the way. Sometimes

frugal / romeos + juliets you might get lucky enough to see a sign that says “cold drinks, beautiful view”, and man is that an understatement and a half. he views are what the iPhone’s panorama setting was made for, particularly at sunset. The drinks menu is fairly basic, but you don’t really want for much when soaking up the scenery. Ride the Dubrovnik Cable Car Dubrovnik is at the foot of Srdj, a mountain that towers above the city.You can take a cablecar up to the summit and get some more insanely gorgeous views (it’s worth holding out for a clear day). Within seconds, you’ve climbed over 700 metres and the city, once impressive and giant, seems sweet and miniature. It’s €13 per person for a return ticket, but factor in getting a drink at the top too. Cosy dinner in a local hot spot Within the city walls almost every restaurant – though pretty and atmospheric – is aimed predominantly at tourists, so the quality can vary. We did some asking and some snooping and found Taverna Otto. It was located outside the city walls, but the glowing Tripadvisor reviews convinced us that it was worthy a try. Set in a 450-year-old stone building that used to be a boathouse, the decor is modern and the mood is cosy and relaxed. The menu was short and simple, but the food was a delight; seasonal, carefully prepared Mediterranean dishes served with delicious Croatian wines, it was the nicest meal we had during our time there – and so good we went twice. The molten chocolate cake was something else. If you’d prefer to stay within the walls, we had some very tasty oysters in Bar Bota, who also served up some pretty good sushi. An island picnic on Lokrum There are lots of islands along the coast, but Lokrum is by far the easiest to get to. There are taxi boats running from the old harbour every half hour or so, and it only takes about 15 minutes to get there. Pack some snacks and once there, you can wander around, check out the very friendly peacocks, and pick a quiet, shady spot to have your grub on. There are lots of rocky beaches around the island’s coastline, which are very popular sunbathing spots for locals – I’ve been told that a lot of tourists can’t quite hack the jagged hardness, but if you bring a mat you should be all set for a nice afternoon snooze.

Crete is for decades the top destination for couples holidays in Greece. by Anne Miralle

Lover s island

frugal / romeos + juliets

ouples holidays in Greece is a very strong trend in recent years. And for good reason. Greece is a big country with a vast variety of places and sights from practically all the historical periods of Europe. But by far the best local destination in Greece for holidaying couples is the island of Crete. Why? Let’s find out… Being the powerhouse of tourism in Greece, Crete was many decades ago the first place that started to professionally cater to visitors. And up to this day, it is the best organized Greek destination, with the biggest variety of amenities for travelers – even in places where you wouldn’t expect it. The same is more than true for couples holidays. In fact, this is the place where the trend started in Greece (and please forgive us for “tooting our own horn”, but yes, Thalassa Beach Resort was one of the first couples only hotels in Greece). Everywhere you go to the island of Crete, you find places of extraordinary beauty, without having to abandon comfort to get close to nature. This is one of the great features that draw millions of visitors every year to the island. Crete has some of the best historical and archaeological sites in the world In Greece, we all know the Parthenon and the Acropolis. But nowadays a lot of us also know Knossos and the Minoan Civilization, where all of it started in ancient Greece. The Minoan Civilization, which flourished in Crete in the Bronze Age, and especially during the period between 4.700 and 3.500 years ago, was the first organized civilization in Europe. Today, the Knossos Palace, which was discovered and excavated by the famous archaeologist Arthur Evans in the beginning of the 20th century, is one of the most impressive and important archaeological sites in the world – and second in Greece only to the

Athens Acropolis. If during your holidays in Greece you want to combine sea and sun with ancient cultures, as most visitors in Greece do, than seeing and experiencing the Knossos Palace is a must. But Knossos is only the tip of the iceberg. In Crete you can also find the other great Minoan Palace, the Phaestos Palace, visit the magnificent National Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, admire the Chania Venetian Harbor (second only to the harbor in Venice itself), discover the Fortezza Venetian Castle in Rethymno (the biggest Venetian castle out of Italy), and lots more. Crete has more than enough gorgeous beaches for couples on holidays If you ask a visitor for the main reason of his/ her visit to Crete, for most people it will be the magnificent beaches of the island. Boasting some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean, Crete has a large and varied portfolio of superb beaches, a top priority for practically all holidaying couples in Greece. To find the greatest beaches the island has to offer, head to the region of Chania, on the west part of Crete. Chania is by far the primary destination for couples holidays in Crete – and Greece – and its famous beaches is only one of its advantages. As visiting couples confirm year after year, Chania is the place where the advantages of Crete for unforgettable holidays reach their peak. If you are thinking of coming to Greece with your significant other this summer, keep on top of your list Crete, and especially Chania, the best local destination for authentic, care-free holidays for couples.

frugal / romeos + juliets

No more A guide on how to cope with fights on the road. by Matt Johnson

lise and I fight. A lot. It’s usually about petty things that don’t really matter, but in the heat of the moment, sometimes even the smallest issues get blown out of proportion. It’s the stupid stuff, like where we should go next or what we should see. We argue about food a lot, too. Elise is always hungry and needs to eat throughout the day, whereas I can last all day on one big meal. And our filming often causes disagreements; we don’t always share the same “vision.” Spending 24 hours a day, seven days a week with someone is bound to take its toll at some point or another. It’s normal. In all honesty, I would be more worried about our relationship if we didn’t fight after spending this much time together. Our fights typically occur on travel days, when one of us is either tired, hungry (mostly Elise!), or fed up with the day. Traveling 18–24 hours on buses, trains, or planes hardly brings the best out in anyone. The snapping begins over something trivial (like what taxi to catch), and before you know it we’re fighting about how Elise never listens or how I never understand her feelings. One classic fight that should have earned us a spot on Jerry Springer happened when we were traveling from Kathmandu to Chitwan in Nepal. Chitwan is only 150km away from Nepal’s capital, but the road conditions are really poor, so we were on a cramped minibus for about eight hours. As soon as we got off the bus, Elise started complaining about how she had a sore neck and just needed a sleep and a shower. I, on the other hand, was feeling pretty good. The motion sickness tablets I had taken knocked me out during the trip, and I had managed to grab some sleep on the bus. That’s when the bickering started. We snapped at each other about the best way to reach our guesthouse, what guesthouse we were going to stay at, and how long we would be staying there. We bickered the whole time until we found a place to stay. As soon as we were in our room, things got worse. The fighting eventually escalated until I went for a walk and Elise had a sleep. When I came back from my walk, the fight started again. This time it was about how I never put my toothbrush or contact lens solution in the right spot and how

frugal / romeos + juliets

Elise can never remember where she keeps things in her backpack. he fight continued for another several minutes, and we began to pick on issues totally unrelated to the original topic. When does a fight ever stay on topic anyway? You always end up fighting about irrelevant issues.You say things you’ll regret later and don’t even really mean in the first place. With tears in Elise’s eyes and I so exhausted by the whole argument, we had to make a choice: either continue fighting or come to our senses. I told Elise we both needed to calm down and look at what we were fighting about. What was the root of the argument? Nothing but a bumpy bus ride. I think Elise was just as relieved as I was to end the fight, and we ended up talking about ways we can resolve these conflicts and stop them from happening in the future. How to Resolve Conflicts The thing with fighting on the road is that the arguments take on a different form than the fights you have at home. At home,

there are distractions like friends and work to keep your mind off the argument. When traveling, however, there’s no escape.You have to talk about how you feel or what’s bothering you and come to a resolution. What works really well for us is having a “word.” One word that you can both use if you think the other person is picking a fight for the sake of it.You both have to like this agreement.You can’t abuse the word and say it whenever you want just to shut your partner up. It has to work for both of you. This approach has really saved us and prevented a lot of fights from starting. For instance, if Elise is complaining about how long we’ve been walking or how hungry she is, it tends to get on my nerves. I’ll make comments back to her that can be a little heated, and Elise will simply use the word. It snaps me straight back into line. Even though it may sound silly to act so quickly on one little word, it really does help us to prevent situations from spiraling out of control. I realize that what I’m saying is unnecessary. Problem solved. Fight avoided. Happy days.

frugal / trouble makers

64. Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Prague, 68. Portugese Awe, 70. Hogwarts in Spain, 72. An Island of Fun, 76. KIddie Travel

TROUBLE MAKERS

frugal / trouble makers

Childrens Prague Some European cities reveal their charms in a gradual way, but Prague wears its medieval-style loveliness right on the surface. by Roger Kings

t’s hard for even the youngest visitors not to fall under the spell of its cobblestone streets, red tile rooftops and majestic architecture. Better still, its beauty is more than skin-deep: Well preserved and culturally unique, Prague offers a diverse variety of things to see and do with kids. Here’s how to make the most of a 72-hour stay.

Day 1 Start with the blockbuster attraction: Prague Castle. This complex, founded in the 9th century and rebuilt several times after natural and wartime damage, is the traditional seat of the Czech Republic head of state. Although visitors can tour the gardens, grounds and (on select days) the State Rooms, the real draw is the soaring St.Vitus’ Cathedral, a marvel of Gothic architecture and artistry. It’s worth paying the small fee to climb the cathedral tower — the reward is a stunning view over the historic heart of the city. Kids will enjoy the Golden Lane, a row of tiny, colorful buildings that once housed artisans. Some have been turned into mini museums that depict the way their occupants lived; others are shops. The Castle also includes a treasury with the Bohemian crown jewels and a little toy museum, which may appeal to younger kids. And don’t miss the pomp and pageantry of the Changing of the Guard. Prague Castle sits above the Mala Strana, or Lesser Town, so named for its position in relation to the larger castle district and the neighborhoods across the river. Quite atmospheric and well-preserved, the steep, twisting streets of this area are a wonderful place to stroll and have a bite to eat. The simple but interesting Museum of Miniatures deserves a quick stop as well — what child wouldn’t be intrigued by a reproduction Matisse painting no bigger than a pinky nail? By late afternoon, everyone’s feet will be screaming for a rest. This is a perfect time to indulge in a vintage convertible tour of Prague. Although you can book in advance through a company such as Prague History Trip, we spotted the cars parked along the streets and went for it on the spur of the moment. In-depth history is

frugal / trouble makers not necessarily the idea here — our guide glossed over the fine points — but in nice weather, it’s a wonderful way to relax, enjoy the fresh air and get oriented to the different neighborhoods and sights. ay 2 Rouse the whole family at dawn to head to one of Prague’s most beloved landmarks: the medieval Charles Bridge, built to link the Old Town and the Mala Strana. Kids may grumble at the early wake-up call, but the payoff is having the bridge almost to yourselves — crowds reach critical mass as the morning goes on. Lined with statues and bookended by centuries-old towers, the bridge and its view over the tranquil Vltava River are magical this time of day. Touching the relief at the base of the statue of St. John of Nepomuk (he’s the one with the halo of stars around his head) is said to bring good luck … but only to those who touch it with their left hands! After breakfast nearby, meander to the Old Town Square, site of the famous Astronomical Clock. Every hour on the hour, the clock whirs into motion, its figurines strike up their performance and statuettes of the 12 apostles slide by. This is a quick stop; the whole process doesn’t take more than a few minutes. If you have some time to kill beforehand, there’s a

pleasant outdoor cafe right across from the clock, where you can wait with a cup of coffee and a plate of pastries. Cruising along the Vltava is an essential part of a family trip to Prague; the water is an excellent vantage point from which to admire the city. There are any number of boating companies that offer sightseeing cruises, all fairly similar in nature. With kids, it’s especially fun to sail to the Prague Zoo on the outskirts of town, and spend the afternoon visiting the giant tortoises, lemurs, gorillas and more. More active families might choose to explore the Vltava by pedal boat. These are available for rent on the spot at a dock near the Charles Bridge. For about 70 CZK (less than $3), you get an hour to pedal along the river at leisure — a fantastic deal. Day 3 By now, the kids have probably noticed the Eiffel Tower-style structure peeking above the treetops. This is Petrin Tower, the heart of Petrin Hill — a former royal vineyard that’s now one of Prague’s prime spots for family fun. It’s accessible either by paved walking trails or by funicular. While I wouldn’t attempt to hike it with young kids, it was a manageable (but steep) walk with our 10-year-old. The climb to the top of the hill takes roughly half an hour, and to access the viewing

platform at the top of the tower requires a brief climb as well. It’s worth all the exertion, however; the views are simply breathtaking. Petrin Hill also offers a small mirror maze and an observatory, as well as pony rides. On the Saturday of our visit, we happened upon a small festival at the base of the tower, with music, kids’ activities, a jugglers, traditional Czech food and more — a lovely surprise and a terrific way to mingle with locals. Events like this are fairly regular at Petrin Hill in the warm months, so check to see what’s on during your stay in Prague. In the afternoon, treat the kids to a marionette performance, in honor of Prague’s great tradition of puppet-making. Several theaters around town put on marionette shows, so ask your hotel concierge which one is ideal for your schedule and needs. Just be prepared to invest some cash afterward; it’s virtually certain that the kids will want to choose a wooden puppet of their own from one of the many shops around town (tip: ask around to make sure you visit a shop of good quality).

frugal / trouble makers

Portugese awe This Southern Portugese region is full of beautiful locales that will leave the little ones in awe. by: Nicole Wiltrout

e sure to carve out some time to see all these beauty and attractions that this special place offers families, it will guarantee many fun days for you all. Ponta da Piedade There are few places in the world more thrilling than the sight of the majestic cliffs, ragged rock formations and even caves and tunnels at Ponta da Piedade, just south of Lagos. There are numerous hiking trails (note that some are far too treacherous for young children).You can climb the 182 steps down to the water, although if your group isn’t up for that kind of physical challenge, the spectacular views are accessible from even just 30 steps down the walled path. Or consider hiring a boat to take you on a 30-40 minute tour of the various grottos and caves around this area for an entirely different perspective. Zoomarine Zoomarine is only open seasonally, and so my family missed out on getting to experience it when we visited this region in February. But it certainly appears to be a can’t-miss spot in the Algarve. Highlights include the many animal shows, like sea lions and dolphins. Zoomarine also

offers one of the few dolphin encounter experiences available in Europe, suitable for children and adults ages 6 and up. There’s also a water park and other rides to round out the day of fun. Zoo de Lagos Fortunately, Zoo de Lagos is open yearround, and it makes a great excursion when the coastal winds kick up (as they often do in the Algarve). It is further inland than most of the attractions in the region. While it is not as large as most metropolitan zoos, what it lacks in size it makes up for in charm. The grounds are kept immaculately clean, the staff is friendly, and the various habitats for the animals are impressive. The playful monkeys and the many exotic birds were a highlight for my family. Sagres The Algarve’s most western town is a great place to incorporate a little history and culture into your trip. Many believe that Henry the Navigator built his navigation school in Sagres, where some of the world’s most famous explorers received their training. The Fortaleza de Sagres has a small museum with information on this era in history, plus a gorgeous ½ mile fenced walk along the cliffs.

Just a few miles up the road is Cabo de Sao Vicente, where Europe’s second most powerful lighthouse stands. Sagres’ marina is perfect for admiring the many fishing boats that head in and out each day, and the town itself is full of charming cafes and surf shops. Go Praia-Hopping Beach lovers will drool over the variety of options this region provides. If you love to surf, or even just admire those who do, Praia Martinhal near Sagres is a great choice. (Many shops in town offer lessons and equipment.) Praia Meia near Lagos is a good option for young families, as it offers an expansive stretch of fine sand and is easily accessible from the parking area. (It was also our favorite spot to collect shells.) There are plenty of more secluded beaches all along the coast, too, if you’re willing to head down the steep stairs that line the cliffs.You’ll be rewarded with spectacular views as you catch some of the best sunshine in Europe.

frugal / trouble makers

t’s not really a castle, it’s more of a monument which was built between 1987 and 1994 by Esteban Martín MD as a tribute to Christopher Columbus and the discovery of America. This unique monument unifies various architectural styles which had a marked effect on Spanish culture: Bizantine, Romanesque, Arabic and Gothic. A walk around the Colomares Castle will allow you to discover various elements from the symbols of the Catholic Kings, from the three cultures present in medieval Spain (Judaism, Christianity and Islamism) and other elements from Christopher Columbus’ epic voyage. Curious Facts 1. The Castle’s main surface area is 1500 square metres making it the largest monument dedicated to Columbus. 2. Each of the three ships which made the voyage across the Atlantic are represented in the construction of the monument. 3. The interior of the castle is home to the world’s smallest chapel. Measuring just 1.96 square metres and is even featured in the Guinness Book of Records. 4. There is an empty mausoleum in the castle… apparently there is hope that one day the remains of Columbus will be laid to rest there. A visit to the castle only costs €2 for adults and €1.50 for kids and pensioners; they also have special prices for groups as well as qualified staff to carry out the guided tours. Opening times Winter: 10am-2pm and 4pm-6pm Autumn/Spring: 10am-2pm and 4pm-7pm Summer: 10am-2pm and 5pm-9pm How to get there From Sunset Beach Club, take the coast road towards Fuengirola. About 4 km from the hotel you’ll come to a roundabout, take a right turn and follow the road towards Benalmadena Pueblo; the Castle is on this road, just before arriving to the town. If in doubt, just ask at our Leisure Desk.

Hogwarts in spain. The ‘Castillo de Colomares’ in Benalmadena is one of the most interesting tourist attractions the municipality has to offer. by Justin Ramirez

frugal / trouble makers

An island of fun

Cyprus has been a popular destination for a number of years now, but its combination of fanstastic beaches and wonderful food has made the island a top choice for families. by: Angel Holmes

he children will love the beaches and the swimming pool but what do you do with them when they get bored? Well, don’t worry because we have listed the top things to do with kids in Cyprus to ensure a fun filled trip.

1. Horse Riding – Paphos This is one of the best places for horse riding in the whole of Cyprus, and we highly recommend the amazing horseback safari tours which depart both early morning and late afternoon. The tours include a pick up and drop off service, an introductory course and a picnic. And if you don’t want to spend a full day here you can choose a shorter ride, which will last one and a half hours or if this isn’t quite long enough you can opt for a three hour ride. The horses here are clearly well looked after and the routes are great for all levels of riders, so don’t panic if you’re a beginner. This activity can also be a fun way to explore Cyprus’ stunning countryside. 2. Aphrodite Waterpark – Paphos With a huge selection of thrilling rides this waterpark provides a fantastic family day out. They offer everything from fast white knuckle rides to baby pools and lazy rivers. And when it is time to refuel there are plenty of places where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat as we know playing in the water can make you hungry. There are also lockers positioned near the entrance

of the park where you store all your belongings, so you don’t need to worry about carrying them around. Although the lockers are optional, if you prefer not paying the fee, you don’t have to. 3. Paleontology Museum – Larnaca Prehistoric creatures await you and your children at this fun museum. So, if your a lover of dinosaurs a day spent walking around this museum will be an amazing experience for both you and your little ones. Popular exhibits here include bones from pygmy elephants and hippopotamus from before 10000 BC. This is a unique and enjoyable experience if you want to escape the heat for a couple of hours. 4. George’s Fun Bus – Paphos We love this trip as George is extremely informative and teaches the children about Cyprus in an exciting and fun way. The tour starts at a prehistoric settlement so you get to see how people lived in this primeval period. Next there is a stop at an art college, but this isn’t just any art college. In fact, the building has been built out of recycled materials so if you want to teach your children to be eco-friendly this is sure to do the trick as they will be amazed when they find out that the college has been built from rubbish. Now, it’s time to visit Ayios Neophytos Monastery. After the steep walk uphill you will be able to explore the cave and

frugal / trouble makers monastery before resting for a muchneeded cup of tea. Your swimming costume is a must for the next stop. That’s right – Adonis Waterfall is the ideal refreshing break when you have spent a full day in the blazing sun. But make sure you get your camera at the ready for the views of the Mavrokolymobos Dam and the final stop, the Sea Caves. Here you can enjoy a BBQ feast followed by soft drinks or wine for the adults.You can also make the most of the sun by relaxing on the beach or hitting the waves. After your meal it’s time to unwind and join in with the entertainment. . Play Planet My Mall Limassol This indoor arcade complete with a kids land has its fair share of activities and games to keep children as young as two fully occupied. Older children and teens, on the other hand, will enjoy battling each other in the video games arcade.You’ll also find that My Mall has a bowling alley and an ice skating rink so you won’t be short of things to do on your visit. 6. Dinosaur Park – Ayia Napa Another activity for dinosaur lovers is Dinosaur Park. Fans of these ancient creatures will be amazed when they come across lifelike dinosaurs as they move and make noises. Little ones often enjoy spotting the different species of dinosaurs as they wander along the trail. Once you have finished the trail don’t forget to visit the park’s shop to buy those essential souvenirs. 7. Looney Land – Paphos Inside King Avenue Mall is a fantastic indoor and outdoor playground. Toddlers are taken care of here and there is a dedicated area which is great for 1-3 year olds. Alternatively, the older kids can spend their time either jumping around on the many trampolines or whizzing down the large slides. But don’t forget to venture outside as you will find three large slides, more trampolines and a bouncy castle. 8. Holiday Village Aliathon – Paphos This is not an activity as such because it is a hotel, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a fantastic place for families. There are so many things that both you and your children can enjoy at this hotel from clubs for 0 to 11 year olds, the largest swimming pool in Cyprus and not forgetting a splash park with a huge pirate ship. There is also plenty to enjoy on an evening with entertainment geared towards families. With so many repeat guests there’s no wonder this hotel has made our top things to do with kids in Cyprus list.

9. Star Leisure Mini Golf – Protaras Not only does this park have a 19-hole mini golf course, but it also has trampolines, bumper cars and a mini train which makes its way around the grounds daily. It’s safe to say that this place offers a fun filled day out for all ages. 10. Sunset Breeze Restaurant – Paphos This restaurant is great for a family dining experience with its delicious food and reasonable priced children’s menu with prices at just six euros for most meals. All kids are different and they all have different interests but as you can see Cyprus offers something for most families. Whether they enjoy animals excursions, waterparks or a slice of history there is plenty on offer here.

frugal / trouble makers

Kiddie Travel W

hether they’re your own or someone else’s, factoring a child’s needs into your travels involves a lot more than sticking on a CD full of pop music and making toilet stops. Here two Rough Guides writers share their hard-won wisdom. First up, mum of two Hayley Spurway offers advice on traveling with toddlers, then Ross McGovern reveals how he manages to travel with older children. 1.Take your time The greatest thing you can take – whether at the airport, sightseeing or getting from A to B – is extra time. Toddlers love to explore and don’t care for the time pressures of travel, so you’re more likely to all retain your cool if you factor the faffing, gawping, stalling, toilet stops and tantrums into your timeframe. 2. Give them a camera Giving toddlers their own (robust, child-friendly) camera encourages them to observe their surroundings and focus on what interests them.You might be surprised at the results from their knee-high view. Amongst pictures of feet and wheels, my

Traveling with children can be a bit like taking a herd of wild goats on holiday. by Hayley Spurway and Ross McGovern

three-year-old has shot flowers, animals, helicopters, boats, rocks and rabbit poo. 3. Be app-y Thanks to toddler-friendly apps, there’s no need to cram a toy box into your hand luggage when traveling by plane. By all means take a book and a magic scribbler (crayons just get lost down the side of seats), but the most compact form of entertainment is a device loaded with apps and games. 4. Invest in a child locator In my experience, toddlers aren’t fans of reins, backpacks with a leash, or any infringement on their freedom. Keep tabs on them at airports, train stations and crowded attractions with a child locator. The child wears a small unit (strapped to a belt or shoe) and you keep the transmitter. If you lose your child set off the alarm and follow the sound to find them. 5. Don’t let the children pack We once went on a trip with our eightyear-old, who complained incessantly that

frugal / trouble makers her backpack was too heavy. The reason why? She’d brought along her entire collection of fossils “just in case”. Do let the children have input but remember to edit this heavily before departure. . Keep the activities coming If you’re heading out on a long journey have a collection of toys to be handed out once an hour. Handheld puzzles, tiny coloring books, stickers, word-searches and even tiny packs of Plasticine will pass the time on a long flight or car journey. 7. Encourage them to keep a travel journal Get your kids drawing and listing things they’ve seen and interesting foods they’ve tried. Who knows, this might also encourage them to try different foods. Collecting postcards from places you visit and asking them to write themselves a message on the back means they can reach adulthood with a library of memories all their own. 8. Remember the medicine It should already be on your traveling list, but having kids along means carrying a small first aid kit is all the more vital: plasters, antihistamines and sachets of painkilling syrup can save a lot of stress later on. Antimalarials are also available in liquid form. 9. Brand them If you’re going to be traveling through busy, crowded airports or transport hubs, write your mobile number on your child’s arm in biro in case they get lost. 10. Check your passports Children’s passports only last five years and they have a habit of running out when you’re not looking. Allow at least four weeks to renew one. The cost of a last-minute passport is astronomical, and particularly galling if you only realize it’s necessary when already in the ferry queue at Calais. Don’t ask us how we know this. We just do. 11. Remember the baby wipes Even if all your children are long out of the diaper stage, don’t forget the baby wipes. They’re useful for washing hands, cleaning toilet seats, and wiping down restaurant tables. In the same spirit, little bottles of hand cleanser can be a lifesaver in some countries, but check the travel regulations for liquids well in advance. 12. Engage and involve older children The best way to avoid a soul-destroying sulk from your teenager is to involve them in the planning of the holiday and ask them for input on what they’d like to do.You might be surprised to hear it’s not spending all day on the internet.

Be prepared for the climate It’s simple advice, but children dressed comfortably for the weather and terrain will be happier in a new environment. With all the gear available, there’s no excuse for dressing toddlers in ski-suits four sizes too big, forgetting their gloves, or leaving them barefoot on a beach where sea urchins lurk.

frugal / secrets stash

82. Stop Believing it, 84. World of Friends, 86. Always Safe

SECRETS STASH

frugal / secrets stash

stop believing it Despite all the detailed websites and books on how to make travel affordable and accessible, too many people still believe the notion that travel is expensive, unsafe, and impossible unless you are rich. by Matt Johnson

yth #1: Travel is expensive Everything costs some money. No travel is free, but the idea that most people hold of travel is the result of advertisements and travel magazines that “a fun vacation is an expensive vacation.” Myth #2: Credit cards are stupid When used properly, credit cards are smart financial instruments.You can earn hundreds of thousands of miles per year that enable you to travel for free. Simply having them won’t send you into debt. Myth #3: Couchsurfing is unsafe People on Couchsurfing are kind and helpful. They want to show you the best their home has to offer. Experience has shown me you can rely on the kindness of strangers. Myth #4: Hitchhiking is unsafe The idea that hitchhiking is always unsafe dates back to the 1950s when the FBI lead a scare campaign to get people to stop the practice. Myth #5: Travel is dangerous for women Men and women both face risks on the road, but women do face additional hazards men don’t and have to be extra cautious in certain circumstances. However, the perceptions that the world is so scary that solo female travel is very, very unsafe and murderers lurk behind every corner is simply not true at all.You have a higher chance of getting hit by a car. Myth 6: Only for the young and single Too many people believe travel is something you can only do in your single youth. I understand that when you are older, you may want more luxury and that family travel requires more planning, but travel is not solely the purview of the young. Age doesn’t matter. I’ve seen families and seniors backpacking around the world, staying in hostels, and driving RVs.

frugal / secrets stash

world of friends

There’s a way for you to go sightseeing and have a private guide for free anywhere in the world. by Laura Buckley

ow about a walk around a city led by a local who knows all the hidden wonders, free of charge? That’s the premise behind Global Greeter Network, which believes the best way to get to know a city is to get to know a local. It’s active in more than twenty cities across the globe and is now continuing its freebie visits in Moscow, one of Global Greeter’s newest iterations. From Argentina to Australia and Houston to Marseilles, greeters show visitors the “other” side to their city, filled with hidden alleyways and lesser-known landmarks. They aren’t professional tour guides, rather enthusiastic volunteers who love their city and apply, interview, and then go through orientation if selected to become a greeter. The first Greeter site was New York’s Big Apple Greeter in 1992, which sought to rid travelers of the pre-set NYC itinerary and script, and instead supply them with informal visits of New York through the eyes of actual New Yorkers. Meaning, skip the Empire State Building, ditch the Statue of Liberty, and head to Chinatown, Brooklyn Heights, Greenwich Village, or Harlem. Big Apple Greeter then joined forces with

the Chicago, Houston, Fairbanks, and Toronto sites to create the Global Greeter Network in 2005. And now, Moscow Greeter leaves out the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral and takes visitors to markets, hidden courtyards, and even hospitals and schools. All visitors need to do is fill out a request form at least two weeks prior to the desired tour date and stay in Moscow for at least two days. Visitors list the places they want to visit, as well as their preferred language, and are put into groups with no more than six people. The local greeters—who are usually foreign language students or retired teachers or professors—then take visitors on a walking tour lasting two to four hours, depending on what the visitors want to see and do. The tour can only be used once per stay while in Moscow. All Global Greeter sites are free of charge, while some are non-profits and greatly appreciate donations (like Big Apple Greeter) and others are a part the regional tourism office (like Chicago).

W The mother-daughter dynasty caters to women who see adventure, but fear the risks of traveling solo. by Lilit Marcus

Always safe

frugal / secrets stash

hile books like Wild and Eat Pray Love demonstrate both the beauty and challenges of women traveling alone, not everyone wants to set off on a backpacking trip by herself— especially in a remote part of the world. It’s one thing to head to a busy, vibrant city where you have easy access to mass transit and lots of people around at night; it’s another thing entirely to go it alone, off the grid, where safety and logistics are both a concern. Enter Adventure Women, a women-only tour company that takes small groups of female travelers everywhere from Iceland to Indonesia to take part in adventure travel activities with minimal risk. And the company doesn’t just pay lip service to the idea of intrepid women circling the globe: It’s run by women— specifically, a mom and two daughters, all of whom have spent most of their lives on the road. Adventure Women was originally founded by pioneering female travel guide and company operator Susan Eckert, who upon her retirement sold the business to Judi Wineland, one of the many women

who had worked with her over the years. It was then that Wineland and her two thirtysomething daughters, Nicole and Erica, decided to transform the business from company into dynasty. Elder daughter Nicole WinelandThomson handles much of the behind-thescenes logistics of trip planning in addition to staffing several journeys per year. “I took my first steps in Tanzania, learned to swim in New Zealand,” she says about her peripatetic childhood as the daughter of Judi, who ran tour companies and guided people on safaris. “[Travel] is just in my blood. I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.” And while Nicole, who never visited Europe on a vacation until she went on her own as an adult, may seem like a hardcore road warrior, she thinks of herself as the less-intrepid sister of Erica, a professional mountaineer. While lots of travelers could go horseback riding in Iceland or kayaking in Mexico on their own, Adventure Women offers not just the safety of numbers, but the comfort of friends. Before the trip even begins, Adventure Women reps have

frugal / secrets stash

long phone chats with guests to answer questions about everything from food allergies to bathroom facilities, and there’s a Pinterest board of items they recommend packing for each experience. hey’ll also tackle questions like where to buy tampons, wash Diva Cups, or stock up on birth control prescriptions abroad, not to mention practical information about the best quick-drying underwear you can wash in your hotel room sink.

best prepared tour guide can navigate. It’s not uncommon for lesbian couples to join Adventure Women trips, but some countries have laws against same-sex relationships or public displays of affection, which can eliminate the feeling of ease the tour company was designed to instill. “We make sure women are aware [of local rules and customs] ahead of time, and it comes down to educating and providing a reason and an opportunity to ask questions,” Nicole says about trip planning. “We have

“Adventure Women offers not just the safety of numbers, but the comfort of friends.” The company’s commitment to immersive travel means that groups meet with local women to learn about their lives and find cross-cultural similarities. One of Nicole’s favorite experiences was meeting with a community of female freedivers in rural Japan. “We met this group of women that have been free-divers for centuries—and it’s a dying art. The men don’t do it,” she says. “The women free dive for pearls, and we meet them and go out in the water with them, and then share a meal together.” A translator joins the groups so that the women can ask each other personal questions—not just about Japanese culture, but about their daily lives. In Egypt and Jordan, travelers can talk to local women about headscarves and the different attitudes about wearing them. And an upcoming trip to Finland will include a personal audience with the country’s first female president, Tarja Halonen, who served from 2000-2012. Despite the relative safety of being in a group, issues come up that not even the

same-sex couples who have traveled with us, so we’re open with them about the country and its customs, and we hope our guests are being respectful because they’re a guest in someone else’s country. But we also don’t want guests to feel offended or like they can’t enjoy themselves. It’s a balance. We put them in situations where they won’t be harassed or uncomfortable.” Adventure Women’s MO is to stay off the grid. While the company does plan trips to popular countries like Italy, it skips Florence and Milan in favor of the countryside. Being in smaller, more isolated places helps the group stick together and share common experiences without the risk of someone wandering off down an alley or deciding to ditch the others. “We want to get lost as a group and bond by going to a place that’s off the radar,” says Nicole. “Women enjoy being a group and bonding and growing and feeling triumphant together.” And that’s true about life in general, not just travel.

Fall in love with the world by joining these wondeful ladies in their journeys around the globe. www.adventurewomen.com

Mother of Dragons Traveling with kids can be expensive but that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean you have to lose all your savings over it. by Adriana Marcone

e were familiar with Slovenia from passing through it, once, on the way to Romania, and we knew it was worthy of a lengthier stay, but we never quite seemed to make it happen. However, that changed last month when, due to a federal holiday, we decided to spend a long weekend there. Because we had three days for a family trip to Slovenia, I made a list with what we wanted to see. I then chose accommodations within one hour of all the places we would visit. Because we travel with kids and our dog, this was going to be a slow and relaxing trip. After searching Airbnb for dog-friendly rentals, we chose Luka’s apartment in the sleepy town of Idrija. The town is nestled between hills and virgin forests assuring your peace and quiet at the end of a day trip. To our surprise, it came with an unexpected bonus – a night sky full of stars like I haven’t seen since my childhood, visiting my Grandma in the Romanian mountains. I could not have been happier with our lodging choice. Leaving Stuttgart, Germany, the drive is roughly six and a half hours. Of course, if you make a few stops and encounter traffic it can take longer. We were lucky to have no traffic at all and, being travel veterans; we only made a couple of stops. We arrived late evening, and after a good night’s sleep, we were ready the next day for our first sightseeing point. Ljubljana, about an hour from our rental in Idrija, is Slovenia’s capital and largest city. Ljubljana is a vibrant city hosting over 10,000 cultural events every year and has numerous museums and art galleries, with Ljubljana Castle dominating the city’s skyline from the top of the hill. Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Castle was originally a medieval fortress, probably built in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 12th century. The castle was used first as a defence structure, then, in early 19th century, it was used as a penitentiary. In the first half of the 20th century, the castle was used as a residential complex. Today, it’s a tourist attraction and a major cultural venue. Because we were there with our dog, we could not enter the castle itself, but we were allowed to roam freely around the castle’s courtyard and the viewing platform which offers you views over Ljubljana and the snowy mountains in the distance. Getting to the castle is easy. From the centre, follow the signs and then you have three options: a fifteen-minute upward hike, take the cable car, or drive. However, if you drive, you have no guarantee you’ll find a parking spot.

Franciscan Church of the Annunciation Dating from the 17th century, the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation dominates the centre of Ljubljana with its gorgeous Baroque-style, red façade, a symbol of the Franciscan monastic order. The interior is covered with colourful frescoes. Unfortunately, the original frescoes were damaged by the Ljubljana earthquake of 1895 but have been beautifully restored by a Slovenian impressionist. I for one was taken aback by the beautiful interior, and I wholeheartedly recommend stopping here. The Triple Bridge This group of three bridges across the Ljubljanica River connects Ljubljana’s historical, medieval, town on one bank, with the modern city of Ljubljana. The Triple Bridge is also called the Old Bridge since the first bridge on the same spot was mentioned as early as 1280. Being an entirely pedestrian area, many people, including street artists, congregate here to relax. The Dragon Bridge The Dragon Bridge also crosses the Ljubljanica River. The legend says Jason and his Argonauts killed a dragon and once it was defeated he started the city of Ljubljana, placing the dead dragon with three other statues at the ends of the bridge. Some local people have nicknamed this structure the “mother-in-law” because of its fiery nature. Because the dragon is a symbol of Ljubljana, it’s something you see throughout the city, giving you the opportunity to play a game of find the dragons, if travelling with children. We did this with our kids, and it kept them entertained. The Butcher’s Bridge The Butcher’s Bridge was built to link the Central Market to the Petkovšek Embankment. The bridge’s plan dates from the ‘30s, but with the start of the war, it was postponed, until 2010. The bridge is unique due to the strange sculptures built on it.You will see Adam and Eve depicted banished from Heaven; a disemboweled Prometheus punished for giving humanity the gift of fire, along with grotesque smaller sculptures of fish and frogs on the bridge’s fences. Because the sides of the bridge are wired, as soon as it was finished, love padlocks appeared almost overnight. The Central Market No matter where we travel, I have to visit the farmers’ market. In Ljubljana, it was easy to find, being close to the main square. Just follow the smell of food coming from the food trucks on the side of the Central Market. Food is cheap and plentiful in the

market. For lunch, we ordered plates of lightly battered, deep-fried fish, served with garlic and yoghurt sauces and chunks of hearty onion bread. I am salivating writing about it. It fed our family of four and had plenty left over, for just 20 Euro. For dessert, we wandered around the market and bought fresh raspberries that tasted just like I remembered from my childhood, in the countryside of Romania. We could not have been happier with our lunch option. ur second day in Slovenia was dedicated to this beautiful southwestern town on the Adriatic Sea. I fell in love with Piran months ago, seeing photos of its beautiful medieval architecture, with narrow streets, and compact houses. I decided then; I had to see it for myself. Piran was about an hour from our rental. Once in Piran, parking signs prompt you to park. Entering the town by car is impossible unless you live there and

possess a yearly pass. Luckily, the parking area can accommodate plenty of cars. It’s right by the sea, and the short walk to the town is very pleasant. Once in Piran, you’ll first see the marina where the boats are moored. The entire town is covered in cobblestones, and the little streets are incredibly charming. From the marina, you will enter Tartini Square, the largest and main square in town. It was named for violinist and composer Giuseppe Tartini, whose statue you can see in front of the city hall. St. George’s Church St. George’s Roman Catholic Church sits on the hill above Piran and was built in the Venetian Renaissance architectural style. The church was the life work of the stonemason Bonfante Torre from Venice. The tower is open to the public, for 1 euro, and offers beautiful views over the town’s red roofs. Walls of Piran Started in the 7th century, Piran’s city

walls were built as a result of the town’s expansion. Today they are well preserved, and visiting is free of charge. The best part about going on top of the wall is the spectacular panoramic views they offer over Piran and the Adriatic Sea. It was one of my favourite spots in town. Piran Minorite Monastery We saw signs for the Piran Minorite Monastery and went looking for it not knowing what to expect, as it was not on my “to do” list. We discovered the little, white monastery run by Conventual Franciscans. I loved the Cloister the most, represented by one of the best Cloister designs in the coastal area. Because of its beautiful atmosphere and excellent acoustics, the Cloister has been the setting for the Musical Evenings of Piran for decades. We spent the rest of our time in Piran walking up and down the town, as I could not get enough of the narrow streets. The

town was not overrun with tourists. Most of the time we walked completely alone enjoying the tranquillity. As far as the restaurant scene goes, try any of the restaurants past the main square offering a perfect view of the sea. The menus feature primarily fish and seafood but can also accommodate other culinary desires. The seafood risotto and seafood spaghetti I shared with my husband, at Tri Vdove restaurant, were perfect. Our final day was dedicated to visiting Lake Bled. The lake sits in a picturesque area, surrounded by forests and mountains, in the vicinity of Triglav National Park. The emerald-green lake is a mix of glacial and tectonic origins. Even in the off-season, you will have to shimmy your way through hundreds of tourists who come here to see the famous little island in the middle of the lake. The church on the island is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary and is visited

by pilgrims from all over the world. The small island can be reached by pletna — a wooden rowboat. Similar to Venice, the profession of pletna oarsman is a respected one, handed down from father to son. The ride is relaxing, where one can bask in the tranquil atmosphere.

"The best part about going on top of the wall is the spectacular panoramic views they offer over Piran and the Adriatic Sea."

DCastle, perched atop a cliff rising 130 o take the time to hike up to Bled

meters above the lake. It’s the oldest castle in Slovenia, mentioned first in the year 1011. The castle terraces offer spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding area. Dogs are allowed on the castle grounds but not in the museum and other interior areas of the castle. Extra Tips for Family-Travel in Slovenia Slovenian people are knowledgeable of English, so there are no language barriers. Slovenia is a dog-friendly country and dogs are allowed in most places. Credit cards are accepted in most places except street vendors and the markets. Quality roads make getting around by car easy. You need a vignette to drive in Slovenia. (Find a list of purchase points here.) There is good LTE phone connectivity throughout the country. Slovenia turned out to be as beautiful and interesting as we expected it to be. Here we found towering mountains, picture-perfect lakes, and medieval cities. However, despite its breathtaking natural beauty, Slovenia remains off the radar for many travellers. So, if in doubt about where to go next, choose Slovenia!

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Unexpected Beauty I expected a dreary, ex-communist city but instead found a multi-cultural, fast growing, and modernizing city. This is how the Bulgarian capital entertained me during my stay. by Marianne Lewis

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ofia, the capital of Bulgaria, surprised me. I didn’t know what I’d find when I visited. I expected a dreary, ex- communist city but instead found a multi-cultural, fast growing, and modernizing city with a rich history, cheap and delicious food and drinks, and friendly, outgoing people. I ended up extending my stay I loved it so much. From the great (free) walking tours, historic churches, museums, and baths, to the modern cafes, nightclubs, and restaurants, Sofia is a wonderful travel (and very budget friendly) destination. It should not be missed!

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Hostel prices – Dorm rooms with 6-8 beds are about 20 BGN per night. Private rooms with a bathroom start around 55 BGN per night. Most hostels include linens, WiFi, and free breakfast. Hostel Mostel, with their great common area, free drinks, pasta, and breakfast, is by far the best hostel in the city. Stay nowhere else. Budget hotel prices – Hotel rooms start around 40 BGN a night. These accommodations are basic, but you can find 3-star hotel rooms that offer more for around 55 BGN a night. Most places at this level offer amenities like air-conditioning, WiFi, TV, and ensuite bathrooms. On Airbnb, shared rooms average about 20 BGN while entire homes start around 40 BGN and average about 60 BGN. Average cost of food – You can easily find affordable takeaway food in Sofia. For less than 2.7 BGN, you can get a slice of pizza, a hotdog, or a sandwich.You can get more traditional Bulgarian food in bakeries, which offer banitsa (a traditional savory pastry) and other kinds of pastries. This food is often consumed with ayran (cold yogurt drink) or boza (fermented malt drink). Another possibility is to get a katma, which is a big pancake filled with cheese, ham, jelly or chocolate. A good meal with a drink at a restaurant ranges from 12-25 BGN. Groceries are about 70 BGN per week for basic groceries like pasta, vegetables, chicken, and other basic foodstuffs. The vegetable and fruit markets and sellers you see on every corner are also a great place to get food for under 2 BGN. LIDL will have the cheapest groceries. Transportation costs – Sofia is actually pretty walkable in the city center. Bikes are a good way to get around the city and rentals can be found for as low as 10 BGN for 3 hours. Sofia has a well-developed

and efficient public transport system that operates from 5am-midnight. A single trip ticket, which can be purchased at station kiosks and costs 1.50 BGN while a day pass is 4 BGN, and a three-day pass is 10 BGN. Taxis are the only transport option late at night, but make sure to set a price ahead of time (taxis should cost 0.75 BGN for the starting fare and then be about 0.75 BGN per km) or ask at a hotel or hostel what the rate should be. Suggested daily budget – 75-85 BGN / 40-45 USD (Note: This is a suggested budget assuming you’re staying in a hostel, eating out a little, cooking most of your meals, and using local transportation. Using the budget tips below, you can always lower this number. However, if you stay in fancier accommodation or eat out more often, expect this to be higher!)

Money Saving Tips

Get your souvenirs in the subways – While it sounds odd, great souvenirs can be bought at the many small shops in the subways in front of the old Party House and in the metro station at the Largo. The Ethnographic Museum has a small shop tightly crammed with souvenirs of all kinds from all over Bulgaria (on the right, just as you enter the main entrance). Antiques and

souvenirs can also be found in Alexander Nevski square, in stalls just opposite the church. Go on a free walking tour – This is a great way to learn the history behind the places you are seeing and to avoid missing any must-see stops. Offered twice a day, Free Sofia Tour is a two-hour excursion that is fun and pretty engaging. Travel in winter – June-September is the peak summer season in Sofia when there is a large influx of tourists. Airfares, as well as accommodation costs, are high during this period. Winters are an ideal time for Sofia budget travel when you can enjoy less-crowded destinations, plenty of scenic beauty, and good opportunities for skiing in the snow. The Christmas season should be avoided because it is also a popular time for tourists to visit. Eat at the bakeries – Bakeries in Bulgaria have a great, inexpensive range of pastries and foods which will fill you up any time during the day. Snacks are as low as $1. Couchsurf – If you plan ahead, you can usually find really nice Couchsurfing hosts all throughout the country. This way, you not only have a place to stay, but you’ll have a local host that can tell you the best places to go and things to see.

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Top Things to See and Do in Sofia

isit the National Museum of Military History This is one of the most visited museums within Sofia. There are three floors of exhibits, all featuring detailed information on warfare in Bulgaria over the past several hundred years. There is one particular display that showcases a parade of uniforms, with the personal the effects of soldiers—it is pretty cool. Admission is 8 BGN. It’s open 10am-6pm from Wednesday to Sunday. Explore the National Art Gallery – This gallery is host to one of the most comprehensive collections of Bulgarian art in all of Bulgaria. There are several displays of work from the 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the masterpieces housed here include works by Vladimir Dimitrov, Goshka Datsov, Anton Mitov, and Georgi Mashev. Admission is 10 BGN. It’s closed Mondays, open from 10am-6pm daily except Thursdays and Saturdays when it opens from 12pm-8pm. See the Sveti Georgi Rotunda – Dating back to the 4th century, this building is the oldest preserved structure in Sofia. The circular Roman structure was rebuilt in the 6th century and then converted into a mosque during the 16th century. There are beautiful murals inside, which have 3 layers of paintings, dating from the 10th and 14th centuries. Stop by the 1300 Years Monument – This structure was built in 1981 to celebrate the creation of the First Bulgarian Empire. It has been slowly disintegrating for several years and is even fenced off, but it is still an interesting sight to see. If you are in the area, it is worth a quick stop. Watch the Presidency and the Guard Ceremony – The Bulgarian president’s office lies within the eastern end of the same monolithic building that houses the Sheraton Hotel. The office isn’t open for public viewing, but the changing of the guard occurs every hour here. The stomping of the Ruritanian uniform-clad men is hard not to hear. Visit the National Palace of Culture – Usually referred to as the NDK, this place is host to 15 separate halls—making it the largest cultural complex in the country. During the summer, there is a regular schedule of various events and a diverse range of shows to check out. Since most theaters are closed during the summer, this is the place you will want to look into. It’s open Monday-Friday from 9am-8pm and Saturday-Sunday from 10am-8pm. Attend an event at the Red House –

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Host to political debates, poetry readings, and dance performances alike, this is a great venue to look into. The building itself is a mansion from the early-20th century and the interior is beautiful. Events are usually free, so it is definitely worth checking out. Have fun in Kokolandia – This is an outdoor activity center, located inside Borisova Gradina. There are three challenging areas, which include: ropeclimbing, rock climbing, mini-golf, and treetop obstacle courses. This adventure park is considered kid and adult friendly—some areas are only 18+. Costs are 3-5 BGN per activity per person. Go paintballing – Paintballing has become oddly popular throughout Sofia. There are several different places you can go that offers equipment rentals, paintballs, and gaming areas. Paintball Bulgaria offers sessions around Mt.Vitosha which is beautiful. Reservations are usually required. Stroll through Pl Bulgaria – This is an elongated park, overlooked by the NDK and near the 1300 Years Monument. There are a few kiosks that can be found here, as well as some sociable bars offering cheap beers. A lot of skateboarders hang in the area, and the popcorn and ice cream stands are a big hit. Take a day trip to the Rila Monastery – This is the most important Eastern Orthodox monastery in the country. It lies in the Rila Mountains, around 120 km outside of Sofia. With beautiful frescoes and interesting architecture, this 10thcentury complex is one of the country’s biggest tourist sites. It costs about 90-120 BGN to get there and takes a little over 5 hours. Admire the Alexander Nevski Cathedral – Constructed in the early 20th century, this is one of the world’s largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals. Topped with the characteristic round domes of the NeoByzantine style, and with a beautiful Italian marble interior, this is one church that you should make sure to stop at. Check out the Museum of Socialist Art – This museum showcases art from the socialist period (1944-1989). A large outdoor sculpture park contains everything from the giant statue of Lenin that once stood in the center of the city, to the red star that topped the socialist party headquarters. Smaller pieces reveal a gentler side to the socialist ideals. The gallery inside has some excellent examples of 20th-century modern art as well as the socialist realism genre we know from the period. Admission is 6 BGN and it’s open daily (except Mondays) from 10am-5:30pm.

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We all Lie Who among us hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t told a white lie about how spectacular their vacation was - even when parts of it werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t? here are some common travel fibs we all tell. by Jamie Beckman

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About the Artist When travel company Kuoni France approached London-based French illustrator Malika Favre to help decorate its new travel brochure for 2016, she applied her usual unmistakable style – a sprinkling of bold minimalism with a striking use of positive and negative space and colour. The illustrations almost hark back to the style of the early 20th century travel posters, which would promise all kinds of delights up and down the UK and across the world. But Favre’s typical nod to what is described as “Pop Art meets OpArt” – gives the artworks a more modern slant, full of dreamy colours and satisfying shapes and lines. As one of the UK’s most sought after graphic artists, Favre’s clients include The New Yorker,Vogue, BAFTA, Sephora and Penguin Books, amongst many others. Discover more of her deliciously satisfying work over at malikafavre.com.

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very travel-lover has done it: No matter how fulfilling, awe-inspiring, or “worth it” our Every travel-lover has done it: No matter how fulfilling, awe-inspiring, or “worth it” our trips are, we’ve told tiny half-truths about exactly how perfect everything was. Maybe you’re a workaholic who couldn’t stop checking email in a tropical paradise, or you’re part of a large family who embarked on a cross-country road trip… with mixed results. But when you gush to your friends back home, all they hear is the highlight reel…and none of the snafus. Why do we lie about our vacations? “With the rise of social media, many people feel compare themselves to their friends and families who post about their ‘amazing’ vacations online,” says clinical psychologist Roudabeh Rahbar, PsyD. “What many hide are the actual realities of travel, i.e., stress, fights, illness, or an overall bad time.” Pair that with a limited number of vacation days to burn each year, and the heat is on to have a magical, Instagramworthy time. But there’s good news: Budget Travel sourced advice from experts to help you avoid the travel snags you might be tempted to gloss over, so next time, you truly can have a dreamy, stress-free trip— no Pinocchio-style white lies necessary. Lie 1. “Travel Is So Relaxing!” The Reality:You’re thrilled you were able to take a vacation, of course. But between running through the airport to make your connection, wrangling toddlers, driving in an unfamiliar place, or packing in as much sightseeing as possible…you’re exhausted. The Fix: First, resist the urge to create a schedule so strict it reminds you of the crazy-busy life you’re trying to escape. “The unnecessary anxiety starts when you book a vacation and think you have to see everything and do everything,” says family therapist Kimberley Clayton Blaine, MA, LMFT. “Leaving ample time in between activities allows you to taste the wonderful food and mingle with the culture and people around you without the hustle and bustle and stress.” When you find yourself in a moment that should be blissful, but your mind is frenzied, try this trick from psychologist and authorSusan Albers, PsyD: “Use your all of your senses. While walking on the beach, hold out your hand and name each of your senses as you make your hand into a fist. Thumb equals touch—the feel of sand on my toes. Pointer finger equals smell—ocean air. Middle finger equals sound—waves crashing. Ring finger equals taste—salty air. Pinky finger equals see—blue sky. Repeat wherever you are.”

Remember this maxim: “Things always go wrong.” Anticipate problems as best you can, but use setbacks as constructive learning experiences that will help you prepare for your next trip. “Perhaps, you’ll learn that you are less likely to have delays when you take the first flight out rather than the last,” says Irene S. Levine, Ph.D., professor of psychiatry at New York University School of Medicine. “Or to leave yourself a day between finishing up work and setting off on your trip so packing isn’t as rushed.” If you still find yourself freaking out? “Take deep breaths and focus on the moment,” says Rahbar. “Even when that can be difficult to do, try to focus on a happy memory or a pull up a picture on your phone that makes you smile.” If that doesn’t do the trick, put on your headphones for a few minutes: The beautifully designed mindfulness app Headspace offers short, guided meditations and a free “fear of flying” exercise, designed to calm you before you step onto an airplane, all delivered in a soothing British accent (free app and introductory exercises, subscriptions from $6.24 per month, headspace.com). Lie 2. “I Didn’t Look at Email All Week!” The Reality:You brought your phone along to the pool, to the beach, on a hike, and on an expedition to explore temple ruins, sneaking peeks at your inbox (and Facebook and Instagram…) whenever you could get a signal. “Many people truly do want to unplug,” Rahbar says. “They are most likely embarrassed to admit how addicted and connected they are to the virtual world. Lying about unplugging goes along with how we lie about how much we drink or work out.” The Fix: Airplane mode. And not just when you’re cruising at 36,000 feet. “Put your phone on airplane mode during the day and plug in in the evening as you wind down from the day,” Rahbar says. “A lot of times when we have our phone on airplane mode, we forget to turn it back on. Or set time limits for yourself—i.e., one hour or two hours a day.” Workaholics, before you jet, loop in trustworthy coworkers ahead of time so they can take care of routine business, and tell them to avoid cc’ing you on group emails. “Be sure to put an away message on your email that tells coworkers when and under what circumstances you should be contacted,” Levine says. One example might be that you are only reachable via emails marked “urgent,” and you’ll only be checking your inbox for one hour at 9 p.m. each night in the time zone you’re traveling

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to. The less available you appear, the less people will be inclined to bug you. Lie 3. “My Trip Was Incredibly Romantic!” The Reality:You fought with your partner about decisions both big and small, from who’d get the window seat on the plane to which exotic food cart to track down. At times, it wasn’t pretty. And it definitely didn’t make you want to jump each other’s bones. The Fix: Talk about the trip beforehand, but go beyond discussing which airline and hotel to book. “To avoid unnecessary or unproductive fights…create a vision for your vacation and make a plan to fulfill it,” says Judith Wright, co-author of The Heart of the Fight. “Ask yourself: What is the purpose of our vacation? And become clear on why you are going. To ‘escape’ is not a sufficient reason. Great reasons include ‘to enhance my relationship with my partner,’ ‘to get more distance on my life,’ or to ‘restore or rejuvenate.’” Lie 4. “Our Vacation Was Great for Family Bonding!” The Reality:Your daughter spent the vacation with her nose buried in her Kindle, your son barely looked up from texting his girlfriend, and your partner spent every second she could get at the spa (a.k.a. away from you). Or, conversely, you spent so much time in close quarters that you longed for a solo vacation, sans the fam. The Fix: Treat trip planning like you’re a general in a war room. “Choose types of vacations that appeal to a range of interests and activity/energy levels,” Levine says.

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“For example, grandparents might want to book a stateroom in a ship within a ship on a large megaship that provides rock climbing walls and zip lines for kids. Make sure sleeping arrangements are appropriate for different ages, e.g., so an aging parent or young child can take a nap during the day or early risers aren’t paired with later risers.” Lie No. 5. “We Got an AMAZING Deal on Our Trip!” The Reality: After all the fees and surcharges, the fares and lodging ended up being more expensive than you’d have liked.You swear to do better next time. Or you didn’t realize your all-inclusive plan didn’t count the premium liquor as free. Or maybe you had the best intentions to save cash by skipping meals, then ended up starving and ordering room service at a markup. The Fix: If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again. No one can be a whiz at saving money every single time. Much of our favorite advice can be summed up in this article, by Budget Travel’s Editor in Chief: 25 Best Money-Saving Travel Tips. A few more hints: Check Google Flights to ensure you’re traveling at the least expensive times, to the least expensive airports. Look at the

prices on the Google Flights map, and you might find that you can have the Caribbean vacation you want on a completely different, less expensive island than you had originally planned to visit. If you choose a low-cost airline, like Spirit or Frontier, make sure you understand what costs extra, like selecting your seat and reserving space for your bags at the airport rather than online beforehand. Sign up for email alerts from all the major airlines, AirfareWatchdog.com, and your favorite hotel companies, and follow them on social media too.You’ll be among the first to hear about bargains, and the deals will find you. Lie No. 6. “I Can’t Wait to Go Back Again!” The Reality:You borderline resented where you were, whether you had a rough brush with poison ivy and mosquitoes while trying find your inner outdoorswoman or had to dodge herds of sunburned tourists at the swim-up bar. Some people love visiting the same place over and over again, but this time, you’re certainly not one of them. The Fix: Don’t beat yourself up. Having not-so-positive experiences is crucial to becoming a true world traveler. “As we travel, and especially in the condensed space-time of travel, as we grow and learn from our experiences, we are ever more capable of making better and more rewarding travel decisions,” Brein says. And before you write off the experience completely, give the locale some credit: “Perhaps you only scraped the surface of a

destination and want to dig more deeply or experience it more authentically,” Levine says. Lie No. 7. “I Loved Having So Much Down Time!” The Reality:You were as bored as bored could be, whether you were by yourself on a solo trip or lounging next to your family on the beach for a week. The Fix: Maybe your trip was just too long—hey, it can happen. Or you know now that you’d prefer not to be alone if you can help it, and that’s a good thing: “The hospitality industry has never been as welcoming of solo travelers (and their money), from reducing or eliminating single supplements on cruises to having long tables at restaurants,” Levine says. “Also, the sharing economy has made it possible for solo travelers to live with locals—e.g., Homestay, Airbnb—share meals with them—Mealsharing, EatWith—and meet up with them as guides, e.g., ToursbyLocals. com, Context Travel.” And then there’s the old-fashioned way to find a friend (and, no, we’re not talking about Tinder tourism—not that there’s anything wrong with that). “Even if you are shy, make efforts to engage other single people, hospitality staff, and even families,” Levine says. “Most will go out of their way to engage a fellow traveler.”

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frugal / in this issue

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