RELISH

THE SUFFOLK SUR-MER: A review by Charity Crewe

If you’re wanting fish that tastes like it leapt straight onto your plate, via some wizardry in the kitchen, The Suffolk Sur-Mer, in Aldeburgh, is the place to go.

The Suffolk - which is also a boutique hotel with six bedrooms - is a cocklewarming Covid success story. Owner George Pell opened it in the summer of 2020 as L’Escargot Sur-Mer, a pop-up version of the legendary Greek Street restaurant. George, who was managing director of L’Escargot at the time, explains that while the other Soho restaurants were benefitting from the streets being pedestrianised during the pandemic, Greek Street became an ambulance run.

With no outdoor seating, L’Escargot had to close temporarily. “Survival instinct kicked in”, he remembers. When he heard that 152 High Street was looking for occupants, he took a punt and, along with six of the L’Escargot team, decamped to the seaside.

It was a triumph from the off, and when the building came up for sale, George had no problem finding local investors. He spent a year renovating it, and what began as a 17th century inn, has returned to its roots. Although he has now parted company with L’Escargot, much of what he learnt there, as well as his training in Home House in Marylebone and the Arts Club in Mayfair, has seeped into the essence of The Suffolk. He’s achieved his ambition to create the feel of a “club house without the membership fee”. As well as the bright and airy restaurant, there’s a bar area, and a roof terrace with magnificent views of the North Seaperfect for whiling away hours sipping cocktails.

Not only is the setting stylish and comfortable, the food is spectacular. George sources his produce carefully, with a focus on local and east coast fishmongers. It is all beautifully prepared by the new head chef, Tom Payne, who hails from Woodbridge. For starters, I went for the Half Dozen Butley Creek Oysters –which were subtle and plump and possibly the best I’ve ever tasted. My brother’s hand dived scallops came with a chimichurri sauce that was a perfect balance of garlic, chili and herbs. The turbot main, which was dripping with

Hullabaloo Scoops

Best Breakfast Accolade

Diners at Hullabaloo are clamouring to see why the Observer magazine recently placed this boho Ipswich eaterie in the number one slot for brilliant British breakfasts!

Based in St Peter’s Street, Ipswich, this lovely plant-based café (the first in the town) is even tempting in meat-eaters who want to try their legendary Capel mushrooms, tarragon and cobnuts on home-made sourdough with a mouthwatering Madeira cashew crème or better still, their gluten-free waffles with lemon cashew cream, rhubarb and toasted nuts. We particularly love their sweetcorn fritters with scrambled tofu, tamari seeds and house beans. This is SERIOUSLY good vegan food made with love by talented chef, Jen Debenham, at this friendly, artsy café she set up alongside husband Jon Halls.

Pick up a loaf of mouthwatering home-made sourdough or freshly made cakes while you’re there - in fact, a little bird tells us that they may soon be offering a home bread delivery straight to your smoked mussel butter and samphire, went down a treat. My brother reluctantly shared a small mouthful of his lobster and chips – I can’t blame him, the lobster in garlic butter was fabulously succulent. It was hard to choose between the puddings, which include elderflower cheesecake and chocolate orange pot. l The Suffolk Sur-Mer, 152 High St, Aldeburgh. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, for lunch and dinner; bar 12pm until late. door. We’re in … l Call, 07790 159669 or find them on Insta @hullabloosuffolk, or online at, hullabaloocafe.co.uk

The Suffolk is ideal for a treat - the mains hover around £26. If that stretches the budget, head to the bar or the roof terrace to indulge in some of their seriously original bar snacks or legendary BBQ’s and enjoy the chic, yet warm and family friendly feel of the place.

Deben Inns Takes Over

THE KING’S HEAD

Deben Inns has added an eighth eaterie to its successful portfolio of award-winning pubs - the historic King’s Head in Woodbridge.

Director Sam Lomas, who runs the company along with parents Steven and Louise, says the King’s Head is a very special acquisition for the family-run firm. “It’s such a historic building, we feel very proud and excited to be here in such a great location overlooking the Market Hill in the town”.

With plans in to extend and renovate the kitchen, subject to consent, the menu is slightly reduced but the offering is very much the same as the other seven award-winning pubs in the group which includes the Maybush at Waldringfield, the Fox Inn at Newbourne and the Butt and Oyster at Pin Mill.

Each has its own unique personality, style and menu with all head chefs given creative autonomy whilst remaining true to the group’s ethos of providing great food with a friendly service, at good value.

Their customers like the fact that there is always offers for those on a budget. If you download their app on your phone you will receive up-to-date offers and can book a table. You will not be alone - they already have a staggering 40,000 app users! And no wonder; their two-for-one roasts on a Sunday, for example, are hugely popular and you will need to book in advance.

For Sam, the endurance of his parentsand before them his pioneering grandparents, Michael and Anne, who came from a successful pub in London’s Holborn to set up their very first eaterie in Suffolk - has paid off.

“I grew up above the Maybush at Waldringfield and can remember from a very young age how hard they all worked”, he smiles, “none of this just fell into their laps; it was 24 hours a day, non-stop hard work. But we are delighted to be able to extend our offering into Market Hill in Woodbridge, which is, as are all our restaurants, dog-friendly and open seven days a week. We are a champion for using local produce and where possible we source our ingredients from local Suffolk businesses, keeping our food fresh and ensuring quality. Our real ales are a feature, all being cask marque certified, and each pub has a different range to choose from, again supporting local brewers when we can”. l To book a table at the King’s Head on Market Hill, go to, debeninns.co.uk/kingshead

ALEX AYLIFFE:

CONNECTIONS,

BOUNDARIES AND PLACE

Gallery East, 24 Church Street, Woodbridge

Opens Saturday 23rd September

The gallery is open

Wednesday, Thursday 11am-4pm, Friday, Saturday 10am-5pm l For further details go to, galleryeast.co.uk

Alex Ayliffe’s new exhibition, which opens in the autumn, is an homage to Suffolk. After a career as a bestselling children’s book illustrator, Alex returned to developing her practice as a professional artist and draws inspiration from abstract artists Sean Scully and Mark Rothko.