14 minute read
More than a Taco
Celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month by seeking out cuisine from a diverse mix of Latin counties – you won’t be disappointed.
Víctor Melendrez
By Arlinda Smith Broady Photos by George Hunter
Many Americans aren’t aware of the complexities of many cultures across the globe. For example, not all Latin food is spicy or comes in a tortilla. As Hispanic Heritage Month approaches, please don’t think of Taco Bell as the place to sample the cuisine of more than 60 million people on the planet.
With Spanish being the second most spoken language in the world, the Pew Center estimates that there are more than 500 million Hispanophones across the globe. That is, people who speak Spanish — whether natives or those for whom it is their second language.
To honor the diversity within the Latinx culture, Peachtree Corners Magazine met up with Victor Melendrez at his restaurant Tortuga Cuban Grill in Peachtree Corners. He was working on a big catering order for a client who was looking for authentic Cuban fare.
“That’s what you get here,” he said, adding that during the holiday season he’s overrun with orders for lechon asado (roast pork), arroz congri (Cuban rice and black beans) and yuca con mojo (cassava with garlic sauce).
Melendrez has been in the food service industry for more than 25 of his 53 years. He and his family emigrated from Guadalajara, Mexico when he was young. The family settled in California, like many Latinos
From left Mariana Castro, Víctor Melendrez and Berenice Garcia
looking for a better future.
In 2005, Melendrez visited family in Georgia and realized that the cost of living was a lot lower than in the Golden State. “At one point, the economy was getting really bad, especially real estate,” he said. “When I found out that you can buy a house for $130,000 here, I was ready to move.”
His first Georgia restaurant was in Buford where he had a partner in a different Cuban restaurant. He chose that cuisine because it was in the Caribbean style that he enjoyed. Besides, there are so many Mexican restaurants everywhere, he wanted to stand out.
The business relationship didn’t go well, and he decided to venture out on his own. “Partnerships are tough,” he said. “I’m not sure that’s something that I’d do again.”
Researching potential areas, Peachtree Corners appeared to have the demographics he was looking for: high disposable income and not overrun with restaurants. But before he could find success, Melendrez had to educate his customers.
An introduction to Cuban cuisine
“I noticed right away that not a lot of people are familiar with Cuban food,” he said. “At the beginning, especially at this location, a lot of our customers said the food was excellent, but ‘we never got our chips and salsa.’”
Melendrez smiled at this. He tried to explain the difference between different Latin American cuisines, but many patrons wrongly assumed that they were all similar to Mexican food.
He explained that it was like expecting chips and salsa at an Italian restaurant. It still didn’t always sink in, but he didn’t let that frustrate him. He decided to let the food do the talking.
If you asked people what they know about Cuban cuisine, they’ll mention the Cubano — a variation of a ham and cheese sandwich that usually includes pickles and roast pork. It more likely originated in cafés catering to Cuban workers in Tampa or Key West than on the island nation itself.
“I like to talk to customers. And with some regulars, I try to get them to order something besides the sandwiches,” he said. “I’ll describe the ingredients and how it’s prepared, and most will try something they’ve never had before. I’ve never had anyone who said they didn’t like the new dish.”
Now, after a few years, he doesn’t have to try so hard with most dishes, but on occasion he brings out samples of something like oxtails or empanadas filled with guava and cream cheese. Those have become such a hit that he sells more than 60 pounds of oxtails a week and the sweet empanadas are outselling the savory ones.
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of the people come here,” he said. “When they compare us to other Cuban restaurants — even though I’m not Cuban — they always go, ‘Oh my god, this reminds me of grandma’s cooking’ or ‘…mama’s cooking.’ It’s because, basically, I’ve been learning from mamas and grandmas from Cuba.” He added, “I don’t want a native Cuban to come in and say that this doesn’t taste like home.”
Melendrez is convinced that sticking to authentic ingredients, authentic methods and refusing to cut corners has kept him doing well in spite of the COVID pandemic.
“We had to close for a few months, like everyone else,” he said. “But we are doing well now.”
Food, supplies and staff are costing much more, but Melendrez said he’d rather bring in a lower profit than sacrifice service or quality. It would cost less in food and manpower to purchase pre-made empanadas, or frozen or canned ingredients, but he insists on using fresh. “I can tell,” he said. “It doesn’t taste like Mama or Grandma made it.”
And he has the same philosophy with people. He’s gone up in pay for his loyal employees rather than turn the restaurant into a revolving door. “I don’t want a customer to say the same dish they had last week tastes different today,” he said.
Melendrez takes his cooking seriously. In addition to hiring a Cuban chef who stressed the training he had already, he has traveled to Cuba and learned from restauranteurs and home cooks alike. “I spent days with people cooking and getting more involved with the culture and the ingredients, and that’s why a lot Right where he belongs
The restaurant’s décor is subtly Cuban. Pictures of the streets of Havana, as well as popular beaches and famous nationals, adorn the walls. He even has a photo of a former chef with President Jimmy Carter at the entrance. “When President Carter went to Cuba, he was one of the main chefs who served their meals,” said Melendrez.
On weekends, he brings in live music to help with island vibe.
These days, Melendrez spends almost all his time at Tortuga Cuban Grill. “It’s good I just live two miles away,” he said. And, he added, it’s a labor of love.
Before the pandemic hit, he may have thought of expansion, but Melendrez said he’s content feeding the people of Peachtree Corners the most authentic Cuban cuisine this side of Havana.
“I can’t see myself doing anything else,” he said. ■
Tortugas Cuban Grill 3466 Holcomb Bridge Rd., Suite AA, Peachtree Corners 30092 470-275-5599, tortugascubangrill@gmail.com
Emmy Award-Winning Filmmaker Calls Peachtree Corners Home
Unlikely bond between a Braves player and Mets fan earns local filmmaker an Emmy.
By Karen Huppertz
As the 20-year anniversary of 9/11 approached last year, Kevin Allison and Bally Sports South/ Southeast Braves knew the best way to mark the solemn occasion was to look back on the singular importance one baseball game made toward the first steps of healing. When the Atlanta Braves and New York Mets took to the field for the first sporting event after the September 11 attacks, it was about much more than winning or losing.
The 7½ minute short documentary, More Than A Game — Braves at Mets — 9/11 Remembrance, recently won a Southeast Regional Emmy Award from the Southeast chapter of the National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences. Peachtree Corners resident Kevin Allison edited and produced the film, along with chief photographer Gregg Therieau.
Healing through sports
“During the pandemic in 2020, there were a lot of discussions about missing sports and how sports help in the healing process,” said Kevin. “We were doing a lot of historical content at the beginning of the pandemic. A lot of former players — Chipper Jones, Brian Jordan, Tom Glavine, a lot of those guys — would refer back to their time during September 11 and how sports helped people process the tragedy.”
Knowing that a year later was going to be the 20th anniversary of those tragic events, Kevin began doing a lot of research, looking at old photos and raw footage from the Braves versus Mets game that took place just 10 days after the historic terrorist attacks. He kept coming across photos of Brian Jordan with a Mets family whose hero father/
husband had perished during the World Trade Center attacks. With one iconic image of Jordan embracing the overcome-with-emotion widow, Carol Gies, Kevin knew he had found the storytelling connection he needed. “Come to find out, they had stayed in touch a little bit through the years,” said Kevin. “During the making of the feature, we actually reconnected the two of them as well.” Gies remembers the night and the painful memories surrounding those early post-9/11 days, but credits Jordan with helping her family tremendously by coming over and saying the kind words that he did.
Connecting stories to the human element
Piecing together a story and finding the personal connection is what Kevin seems to enjoy most about his work. From the time he began filming interviews for the feature film to editing those 7½ minutes took about a month of work. Before beginning interviews, from the time research began, was closer to a year.
Most Braves fans will remember a Mets homerun sealed the game for the home team that night. Most fans also accept that Mets win as how the game needed to end.
When asked about his approach to documentary filmmaking, Kevin stated, “For me, it has always been: what’s the connection and how do I connect the storytelling to get the human element? Especially when it comes to sports, you can be fans of the team, but how do you find the human interest for an individual?”
Kevin’s wife, Jaclyn Allison, is often the first audience to judge that emotional connection. As Director Marketing, Communications and Events at Partnership Gwinnett, Jaclyn understands the subtleties of good communication and, for her job, how to create events that will draw on an individual’s or group’s desire to engage.
Jacklyn’s work with Partnership Gwinnett
Partnership Gwinnett is a public/ private initiative designed to drive “economic prosperity by attracting, expanding and retaining quality businesses; aligning and developing diverse talent; and contributing to the exceptional quality of life in Gwinnett County.”
“We have three different goal areas,” explained Jaclyn. “We focus on business development, recruiting and retaining business in our community, talent development — so we work with the university and school systems to build up our talent pool, and then our community development — working a lot with entrepreneur development and small business culture. Within our goal one, business development, we focus on five target sectors: manufacturing, supply chain, technology solutions, health sciences and services and then corporate and professional services. Anything that falls within those sectors we focus on and work with our community to bring here.”
Jaclyn works on a number of events that target those sectors. She’s currently working to bring The State of Technology Summit to Peachtree Corners November 10 at Atlanta Tech Park. It will bring together keynotes and speakers to talk about trends and best practices in the technology sector.
She’s also very proud of her husband’s work and was the first to share that his latest Emmy is not his first. In fact, this is his eighth Southeast Regional Emmy Award.
Opposite page, Kevin & Jaclyn Allison at the 2022 Emmys. Kevin Allison accepting the Emmy Left, Allison Family (Photos courtesy of the Allison family)
Kevin’s dream career and life
It all comes from an honest place. Kevin Allison has been a huge sports fan his whole life and he readily admits he just enjoys TV. Combining those passions into a career is the dream.
For “More Than A Game – Braves at Mets – 9/11 Remembrance,” he took a lot of care. “For something that impacted so many people, even if it was 20 years ago — and out of respect for Carol who was still willing to tell this story 20 years later — for me the goal was what’s the most respectful way to tell this story,” Kevin stated.
Kevin was proud and happy this film was recognized, not so much for the personal accolades, but because of the story and the people involved. “I work with Brian Jordan every day and he is one of the best people to work with and one of the kindest people in this community,” said Kevin. Being able to share Carol and Brian’s story meant being able to recognize two of many special individuals who made a difference in those very challenging days post 9/11.
Introducing you to Kevin and Jaclyn would not be complete without sharing that their Peachtree Corners family is currently a busy one, with three young children ages one, three and four. The little ones haven’t been to see the Braves play yet, but it’s inevitable. We anticipate you’ll also be seeing each of those young ones on the ballfields in and around Peachtree Corners soon.
Allow yourself seven and a half minutes, grab a tissue and be inspired by More Than A Game – Braves at Mets – 9/11 Remembrance (https://twitter.com/bravesonbally/ status/1436826842791620617?s=21). ■
Scan the QR Code to view the seven and half minute video
Kevin Allison’s Nine Emmy Awards
■ 2022, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Sports Story — News, More Than A Game — Braves at Mets — 9/11 Remembrance | Bally Sports South/Southeast (formerly Fox Sports South/Southeast)
■ 2021, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Sports Program — Live — Series, Community Heroes Week | Fox Sports South/ Southeast
■ 2016, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Documentary: Topical — Driven: Michael Waltrip Racing — Life in the Pits | Fox Sports South/Southeast
■ 2014, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Television News and Program Specialty Excellence Category: Sports Program Series — DRIVEN: THE CHIPPER JONES STORY | Fox Sports South/Southeast
■ 2013, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Television News and Program Specialty Excellence Category: Sports Program Series — DRIVEN: Tougher. Faster. Stronger. The 2013 Bobcats Draft | Fox Sports South/Southeast
■ 2013, College Sports Media Award: Outstanding Achievement, Regional/Local Networks: Program Series — Under The Lights: Southern Miss Baseball | Fox Sports South/Southeast
■ 2013, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Television News and Program Specialty Excellence Category: Sports Program Series — Under the Lights: Southern Miss Baseball | Fox Sports South/Southeast
■ 2009, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Television Programming Excellence Category: Interview/Discussion — In My Own Words: Charles Barkley | Fox Sports South/ Southeast
■ 2007, Southeast Regional Emmy Award: Outstanding Achievement, Television News & Program Specialty Excellence Category: Sports News Program — University of Tennessee Hoops Preview | Fox Sports South/Southeast
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