CiderHouse Cook Book

Ciderhouse Cookbook: 127 Recipes That Celebrate the Sweet, Tart, Tangy Flavors of Apple Cider by Jonathan Carr, Nicole Blum, Andrea Blum

Inspired by the full flavors emanating from their idyllic ciderhouse located in the heart of a rustic New England apple orchard, Jonathan Carr and Nicole Blum’s recipes, developed in collaboration with chef Andrea Blum, celebrate the versatility of fresh cider in all its forms.

Ciderhouse Cookbook teaches home cooks how to make a full array of traditional cider products, including cider syrups, molasses, vinegars, shrubs, and switchels, as well as apple preserves. The 127 cider-enriched recipes that follow are simple yet elegant, ranging from Oven-Roasted Asparagus with Garlicky Apple Vinaigrette to Braised Lamb Stew with Apples, Switchel, and Yogurt Mint Sauce; Cider Mimosas; Apple Pommeau Cake; and Crêpes with Fried Apples and Cider Caramel Sauce. With beautiful photography that captures the ambiance of the ciderhouse, this book is a deliciously loving tribute to America’s favorite fruit.

“Exerpted from Ciderhouse Cookbook by © Andrea Blum, Nicole Blum, and Jonathan Carr. Used with permission of Storey Publishing.” Crepes and Caneles: “Photography by © Colin Price.”

Buckwheat Crêpes with Smoked Farmer’s Cheese, Asparagus & Mushrooms Serves 4

Buckwheat crêpes and cider are a traditional combination in northern France, and an entire book could be written on the various ways to fill these savory pancakes. Though these crêpes do not contain any ciderhouse products, they are a perfect match for a glass of cider at lunch or dinnertime, and as such we had to include this recipe in the book. If you’ve never made crêpes before, you will see just how easy they are to whip up for a quick supper. Their ability to accommodate a multitude of flavor combinations makes them quite versatile for rolling up a special filling or for using up some savory or sweet leftovers from the refrigerator. Our cooking habits change as the world awakens in spring, and with the apple blossoms in the orchard come the wild morel mushrooms. If you are an intrepid forager and know where to look, these delicious mushrooms pop up in secret spots all over the country. At the same time, our garden is lush with spring alliums — garlic chives, green garlic, and scallions — and the “Hadley grass” (known to nonlocals as asparagus) is prolific. If we were inclined give our dishes cute names, this crêpe would be deemed “Spring Has Sprung” or something similar. The smokiness of the cheese with the earthy buckwheat will kind of blow your mind.

Note: Keep in mind that morels need to be thoroughly cooked before you eat them. You can use dried mushrooms if you don’t have access to fresh. To reconstitute dried morels, soak them in a bowl of water for 15 to 30 minutes until plump.

Crêpes 1 cup whole or 2% milk 1∕3 cup water 3 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 2∕3 cup buckwheat flour ½ cup rice flour 3 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 teaspoon butter or sunflower oil

Filling 1 bunch asparagus, woody ends snapped off 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped garlic chives, scallions, or green garlic 2 cups sliced morels or your favorite mushroom (see note) ½ pound Farmer’s Cheese (page 44), smoked but without cider syrup, or 2 cups grated Gruyère or fontina

1 Make the crêpes: Whisk together the milk, water, eggs, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the buckwheat flour and rice flour, then add the sunflower oil and beat vigorously for about 1 minute. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. (You can cook the crêpes right away, without refrigerating the batter, but they just may not be quite as soft and flexible.) 2 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 3 Heat a crêpe pan or an 8-inch sauté pan (not a straight-sided pan) over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot — if you flick a little water on the pan, it should skitter across the pan before turning to steam — add the butter and swirl it around to coat the pan. Pour ¼ cup of batter in the center, quickly tilting the pan so the batter fills the entire bottom in a thin, even layer. Cook until the edges start to crisp up and the bottom turns brown, about 15 seconds, then flip over. Cook the second side again until crisp, about 15 seconds longer. Slide onto a plate. This first crêpe will be ugly and you should eat it immediately with a little butter or cheese. The pan does not have to be buttered for the subsequent crepes. Repeat, stacking the crêpes on the plate and covering them with a tea towel to keep them warm and fresh for filling. If the crêpes get too dark as you’re cooking them, reduce the heat. 4 Make the filling: Arrange the asparagus in a single layer on a baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Roast for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly brown and tender.

Image and continued recipe on opposite page.

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5 Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic chives and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the morels and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and sauté until the liquid from the mushrooms cooks off and the mushrooms begin to fry, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. 6 Lay one crêpe on a work surface or a plate. Spread 2 tablespoons of the cheese down the center of the crêpe, the desired number of asparagus spears (the exact number will depend on their thickness) alongside the cheese, and follow with a few spoonfuls of the mushrooms. Roll your crêpe and set on a serving plate. Repeat with the remaining crêpes.

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Canelé de Pomme Makes 16 standard-size or 30 small Canelés Canelés, one of our favorite sweets, are soft bites of flan baked in a special mold, yielding a crispy caramelized shell that leaves you wanting another. Furthermore, they look absolutely irresistible. You’ll need to plan ahead, as the batter needs to sit in the refrigerator for a day or two before being baked.

1 Combine 2 cups of the milk, the butter, the bay leaf, and the vanilla bean seeds in a small saucepan over low heat. Warm until the butter melts, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the liquid cool for 5 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. 2 Combine the egg yolks, sugar, pommeau, and remaining 2 cups milk in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the flour and salt and stir to combine. 3 Slowly pour the warm milk and butter mixture into the flour mixture, stirring continuously. Transfer the mixture to a pitcher and refrigerate, covered, for 24 to 48 hours. This step is crucial, as it allows the flour to hydrate. 4 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Chill the canelé molds (see note) in the freezer for 30 minutes. 5 Remove the batter from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature. If some separation has occurred, gently whisk to combine. 6 Combine the apples and cinnamon, if using, in a medium bowl and toss together. 7 Place the chilled molds on a baking sheet and spray or rub them with olive oil. Fill each mold with batter up to about 1∕8 inch from the top. Place a small spoonful of apples on top of the batter in each mold unit (it’s okay if they sink). 8 Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F (190°C) and bake for 1½ hours, or until the canelés are caramelized (deep brown) on the outside. Turn the trays around halfway through the baking time. 9 Let the canelés cool before releasing them from the molds. They are best eaten the same day, but they freeze well and can be served after being defrosted in a 350°F (180°C) oven for 5 to 10 minutes.

4 cups whole or 2% milk 6 tablespoons butter 1 bay leaf Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean pod 4 egg yolks 4 cups confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons pommeau (page 26) or apple brandy 1½ cups cake flour ½ teaspoon salt 2 small apples, peeled, cored, and diced ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

Note: Flexible silicone molds are easier to use and less expensive than the traditional copper molds; we suggest using those that are made especially for canelés. If you are the owner of some glorious copper molds, chances are you already know how to prepare them — if you don’t, read the manufacturer’s directions.

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Apple Filling

Nancy O’Brien is a native of Philadelphia and the mother of seven children. With so much cooking to do for so many people, why not enjoy it? She took to cookery with passion, and she cooks with flair if not with a great deal of accurate measurement, Having lived abroad for some time and traveled extensively, she learned to appreciate some aspects of European cuisine. She is fond of certain French, Belgian, and German dishes and has a high regard for single-malt Scotch whisky. Her children’s favorites are closer to home, and they include turkey stuffing and desserts. Her apple pie is the classic example.

Pie Crust

CLASSIC APPLE PIE

2 ½ cups all purpose flour 1 ½ tsp. salt 1 cup shortening ¼ cup ice water

Mix dry ingredients. Add shortening. Cut with pastry cutter (or 2 knives) until it looks like gravel. Make a well in center and add water. Mix with a fork until mixture comes together in a ball. Cut ball almost in half (1 large and 1 small). Wrap in plastic wrap or wax paper and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

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5 cups peeled, cored and sliced apples – use the apples you prefer (or whatever you have on hand) ½ cup sugar – adjust according to taste (for apple sweetness/ tartness) 2 Tbsp. flour ¼ tsp. salt 1 ½ tsp. cinnamon ½ tsp. nutmeg 2 Tbsp. butter

Pie

Roll out larger ball of dough and line pie plate with it. Fill with apple mixture and dot with butter. Roll our small ball of dough and cover filling with it, crimping the top and bottom together. Bake at 425° for 45 minutes or until brown.

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