Buckwheat Crêpes with Smoked Farmer’s Cheese, Asparagus & Mushrooms Serves 4
Ciderhouse Cookbook: 127 Recipes That Celebrate the Sweet, Tart, Tangy Flavors of Apple Cider by Jonathan Carr, Nicole Blum, Andrea Blum Inspired by the full flavors emanating from their idyllic ciderhouse located in the heart of a rustic New England apple orchard, Jonathan Carr and Nicole Blum’s recipes, developed in collaboration with chef Andrea Blum, celebrate the versatility of fresh cider in all its forms. Ciderhouse Cookbook teaches home cooks how to make a full array of traditional cider products, including cider syrups, molasses, vinegars, shrubs, and switchels, as well as apple preserves. The 127 cider-enriched recipes that follow are simple yet elegant, ranging from Oven-Roasted Asparagus with Garlicky Apple Vinaigrette to Braised Lamb Stew with Apples, Switchel, and Yogurt Mint Sauce; Cider Mimosas; Apple Pommeau Cake; and Crêpes with Fried Apples and Cider Caramel Sauce. With beautiful photography that captures the ambiance of the ciderhouse, this book is a deliciously loving tribute to America’s favorite fruit.
“Exerpted from Ciderhouse Cookbook by © Andrea Blum, Nicole Blum, and Jonathan Carr. Used with permission of Storey Publishing.” Crepes and Caneles: “Photography by © Colin Price.” 26
Buckwheat crêpes and cider are a traditional combination in northern France, and an entire book could be written on the various ways to fill these savory pancakes. Though these crêpes do not contain any ciderhouse products, they are a perfect match for a glass of cider at lunch or dinnertime, and as such we had to include this recipe in the book. If you’ve never made crêpes before, you will see just how easy they are to whip up for a quick supper. Their ability to accommodate a multitude of flavor combinations makes them quite versatile for rolling up a special filling or for using up some savory or sweet leftovers from the refrigerator. Our cooking habits change as the world awakens in spring, and with the apple blossoms in the orchard come the wild morel mushrooms. If you are an intrepid forager and know where to look, these delicious mushrooms pop up in secret spots all over the country. At the same time, our garden is lush with spring alliums — garlic chives, green garlic, and scallions — and the “Hadley grass” (known to nonlocals as asparagus) is prolific. If we were inclined give our dishes cute names, this crêpe would be deemed “Spring Has Sprung” or something similar. The smokiness of the cheese with the earthy buckwheat will kind of blow your mind. Note: Keep in mind that morels need to be thoroughly cooked before you eat them. You can use dried mushrooms if you don’t have access to fresh. To reconstitute dried morels, soak them in a bowl of water for 15 to 30 minutes until plump. Crêpes 1 cup whole or 2% milk 1∕3 cup water 3 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 2∕3 cup buckwheat flour ½ cup rice flour 3 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 teaspoon butter or sunflower oil www.livingwellmagazine.net
October 2018
Filling 1 bunch asparagus, woody ends snapped off 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped garlic chives, scallions, or green garlic 2 cups sliced morels or your favorite mushroom (see note) ½ pound Farmer’s Cheese (page 44), smoked but without cider syrup, or 2 cups grated Gruyère or fontina 1 Make the crêpes: Whisk together the milk, water, eggs, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the buckwheat flour and rice flour, then add the sunflower oil and beat vigorously for about 1 minute. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. (You can cook the crêpes right away, without refrigerating the batter, but they just may not be quite as soft and flexible.) 2 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 3 Heat a crêpe pan or an 8-inch sauté pan (not a straight-sided pan) over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot — if you flick a little water on the pan, it should skitter across the pan before turning to steam — add the butter and swirl it around to coat the pan. Pour ¼ cup of batter in the center, quickly tilting the pan so the batter fills the entire bottom in a thin, even layer. Cook until the edges start to crisp up and the bottom turns brown, about 15 seconds, then flip over. Cook the second side again until crisp, about 15 seconds longer. Slide onto a plate. This first crêpe will be ugly and you should eat it immediately with a little butter or cheese. The pan does not have to be buttered for the subsequent crepes. Repeat, stacking the crêpes on the plate and covering them with a tea towel to keep them warm and fresh for filling. If the crêpes get too dark as you’re cooking them, reduce the heat. 4 Make the filling: Arrange the asparagus in a single layer on a baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Roast for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly brown and tender.
Image and continued recipe on opposite page.
