Drew Jones + Anastasia Andrews CAREY MULLIGAN GABRIELLA CARR CHRIS WALKER THE XX THE OLSENS PAUL JASMIN SELINE CALVIN HARRIS DIY PIONEERS, SKIN DEEP, SUPERYACHTS, BAGS, BEAUTY, LIFE MUSIC AND TATTOO FETISH
Nov/Dec 2011 £5.00 | Photo: Olivia Reeves
CONTRIBUTORS
BECKY GRAINGER
SHEENA DARBY
Journalist and author Becky Grainger whose prose regularly brightens up the days of a reader of ‘The Independent’, interviewed Drew Jones for our ‘skin deep’ special this issue. Her latest book: Life is what you make of it, is published by Merrell in January.
Born in India, Made in Manchester and now based in London, photographer Sheena Darby enhanced her incredible knack of street style photography working for the likes of Scott Schuman. For this issue Darby shot Drew Jones and co. for our cover feature.
What’s your most prized possession? My dignity… no honestly I don’t really have one, a lot of things are
What’s your most prized possession? My brand new shiny white i-phone, I would be a wreck without it, it
R.B HARDIE
PHOEBE DAY
RB’s impeccable taste in style is regularly on display in The New York Times T Magazine, where she is currently Womens fashion Director. She has styled her way up the chain, from the humble beginnings of Vivienne Westwood. This issue she contributed a ‘nothing to it’ style for our skin deep special with photographer Zoe Gibaut.
Phoebe Day moved to London as a teenager to work as a photographer’s assistant. Until she recently set out on her own, she assisted renowned fashion photographer ‘Rankin’. For this issue she teamed up with our very own Jo Presly from Wonderland to shoot two stories, on this season’s androgony hype and the latest from LA.
What is your most prized possession? My Pooh Bear, my childhood toy
What
6
I’ve had for 20 years
is
your
most
possession? My English bulldog ‘Rocco’
prized
EDITORS LETTER
THE MODIFICATION ISSUE
10
Inspirations from the ‘no effort’ effect and shabby chic styles of LA. Celeb street style has turned to the more, ‘rolled out of bed’ look that is also stepping fresh off the catwalk. From glamour and lavishness… to a sincere tribute to androgyny, a bit of a common word these days, although we at Wonderland consider it only to be a commercial form of cross dressing. On the runways this season, there was something of a lack of luxury and a back to basics, nonchalant take on fashion. A convincing call for a re-evaluation of all things scruffy chic, simple and effortless that we thought it would be a shame not to honour these ideas in our November edition... so here it is: The Modification Issue. It’s not about flashing your cash around indiscriminately, nor about ruining yourself so you can afford a designer handbag. It’s about celebrating the notion of ‘back to basics’. First up theres taste - flick forward a few pages to discover what some of the leading lights of the creative industries, from Calvin Harris to Tom Ford. Then there’s our cover stars, Drew Jones and Anastasia Andrews. The first a former freelance studio artist is making a spectacular jump from acrylics to ink, with his thriving tattoo studios across Manchester. The other, model, actress and porn star Anastasia has the most interesting CV in the industry. Recently completing a street style documentary based around current events, this down to earth star has captured the attention of many. And as for the rest? Yes, ok we couldn’t resist, we go back to black with an overload of furs, jewels, skulls and crosses, discussions, ideas and the best of this season’s mens and womenswear. Don’t you just love us?
SKIN DEEP A TATTOOED GENERATION
“The only difference between tattooed people and nontattooed people is… tattooed people don’t care you’re not tattooed.”
12
Words Olivia Reeves Photographer Phoebe Day Fashion Editor RB Hardie
It’s difficult to look legitimately like a wild child these days, when even the most well behaved and sophisticated businesswomen have secret tattoos and body modifications… and ‘A’ star students hiding secret navel piercings underneath their private school blazers, no doubt cleverly concealed from their parents. Tattoos have been used for centuries, in the early 20th century they were usually a representation of a change in life status, but in recent years tattoos have also become a fashion accessory, a trend fuelled by football players, bands and celebrities. Back in the day when tattoo artists were extremists and a tattoo itself was considered taboo, the tattoo studio’s showed no signs of privilege or wealth but, a cliché run down old shop… Nowadays the outlook on tattoos has a whole different meaning. A clean, slick, music industry management appearance, the window sporting a Hells angels style Harley Davidson and an up to date reception room like a stylish new salon. Initially a sign of gang culture or a statement of being ‘butch’ or to the non-tattooed ‘an outrageous body modification’ unsightly and controversial. Yet recently it seems nothing less than the norm to have body art rather than body armour. Contrary to today’s accessible tattoo industry, tattoos were only really available to a small number of select social groups from sailors and bikers to skinheads to look butch and tough rather than a fashion statement. A tattoo used to be a statement of culture, whether it be a hells angel gang thing or tribal mark, only men would face the needle. With the huge revolution of body art over the past decade it is clear that breaking down social taboos and illustrating a Grey vest by DEISEL, Checked shirt by ALLSAINTS. Right: Swim Shorts by DSQUARED2, Bracelets and Eyewear by TOM FORD. Fashion Assistance R.B HARDIE Photographic Assistance PHOEBE DAY
13
Charcoal tee by DSQUARED2, Vintage leather biker jacket MODELS OWN, Beige trousers by ALLSAINTS, Striped socks by AMERICAN APPAREL, Military boots by H BY HUDSON Braces MODELS OWN
14
sense of individuality are two issues on more and more peoples minds. We only have to open a magazine or turn on the TV to see another sport star, musician or celebrity flaunting their latest work in films, photo shoots and music videos. In a time where many feel individuality is losing out to high street domination, tattoos are losing the social stigma once connected and seemingly helping fuel a return to self-expression. The mysteries of tattoo parlours have been an ongoing show playing on my conscience. Now, writing this article has allowed me to enter this mysterious world and the Narnia like wonders playing over in my mind. I have always asked myself ‘what is it, holding you back from entering such an appealing place? Well for me it would be the great big ‘tattoo and piercing’ sign over the window nor the desire to ever get either, but I always wondered what was behind those doors… now the perfect excuse to enter into a world unknown. Where: what tattoo studios were like in comparison to what they are like now The look: an artist’s studio equipped with huge pieces of artwork encased in portfolios. The smell: antiseptic and alcohol gel (Until the licensing law changed they reeked of old cigarettes… now they are fresh as a daisy with cleansing spray) Fashion icons and following trends: People in the public eye have made tattoos acceptable rather than unmentionable. Times really have changed and now a tattoo is something meaningful, fashionable, comical. It has the sense sometimes of making people more ‘edgy’ and in my opinion it immediately changes ones opinion of another person. Angels, roses and crosses were traditionally common tattoos in history, this reflects on different cultures at the time, people’s beliefs and morals. Now tattoos have changed with fashion and peoples ever changing cultural views. However as time will only tell, history does in fact repeat, as more and more people are turning back to the retro originals. I never really understood why people would want a piece of clothing or fashion accessory that they would never be able to take off but now a days it is becoming more and more inviting, with technology and development of the world seems to be moving towards a point wear tattoos can be as easily removed as the washable transfers. Simply wiped clean and stripped, ready for a fresh start. Even Chanel have brought out there own glamorous designer temporary tattoos … a statement in the fashion industry being the first fashion house to do so. Proving fashion is not just about the garments... but indeed what your skin is wearing. By the 21st century even the Barbie doll put out a tattooed Barbie in 2011, which was widely accepted, although it did attract some controversy. The new Louboutin shoe store in Paris has recently opened their very own ‘tattoo parlour’ in which they consider tattoos to be ‘The modern man’s coat of arms’…. ‘Major made to measure but for the 21st century’…. Measured, photographed and made carefully into a pair of unique Louboutins. The thought of having a tattoo has crossed my mind many a time, enough for me to realise it will never happen. Too many indecisive moments about an event which would change my body forever. Or until instant tattoo removal with no pain has been invented, as a tattoo that costs several hundred pounds could require several thousand pounds and many laser sessions to remove. In a recent interview with Drew Jones a renowned tattoo artist from the ever growing, mysteriously fashionable northern quarter of Manchester city, he tells us all at Wonderland of his own meandering experience. Drew: “Having got my first tattoo at a very young age I admit my initial attraction was to the level of rebelliousness it offered. I had no desires to join a motorcycle crew or be in a rock band, but I did want
15
16
This page; Shirt by THE KOOPLES, Beiege trousers by ALLSAINTS, Socks by AMERICAN APPAREL, Military Boots by DR MARTENS, Braces MODELS OWN Opposite: Shirt by ALLSAINTS
to stand out from the crowd. In an environment where piercing your ear or bleaching your hair had become the norm, a tattoo was my best option. As I grew up I noticed more people around me doing the same thing. Some to be individual, some to rebel, some to imitate their idols and others as a fashion statement! Which ever reason someone chooses, getting a tattoo represents a way of making a statement, a way of being different from everyone else.” “Tattoos on humans are a type of body modification, and tattoos on animals are most commonly used for identification purposes.” Would you agree? Drew: “Yes it is a body modification, you are changes your body forever, it requires a lot of thought and it is a big commitment. There are reversal procedures but the cost is high and painful. “ Tattoos for fashion or something else? Drew: “80% of the time it is an image thing, and more or less 20% is a tattoo that has meaning i.e. a memorial or something special. Only a small percentage of tattoos have an emotional connection to the client. With more and more celebs in the public eye investing in body art, kids see there heroes and roll models sporting various body art and they wish to follow in their footsteps, and follow their idols” Have you made any brash decisions? Would you get anything removed? Drew: “Definitely, as you can see, I have few areas of my body that are not completely covered, therefore I have limited space left to work with, of course, tattoo techniques and tools are constantly updated, creating better pieces. Whilst I don’t regret any of mine.. The human body is only so big, and I now have no room to further my ideas.” Do you think it takes a special type of person to enter your studio? Drew: “We get all types of people, all ages and all ethnicities Since the 1990s, tattoos have become a mainstream part of global and Western fashion, common among both sexes, to all economic classes, and to age groups from the later teen years to middle age. In my opinion tattooing is limited by no boundaries, except religion. Tattooing has been practiced for centuries in many cultures spread throughout the world.”
17
THERES NOTHING TO IT
Bowler hat by TOPSHOP, NYC tee URBAN OUTFITTERS, Demin shorts by LEVIS, Black belt by ZARA, Bracelets by VARIOUS
22
Left: Vintage T-Shirt by HARLEY DAVIDSON CLOTHING, Jewelry by NASTY GAL, This page: Shirt by ALLSAINTS, Demin vest jacket by TOPMAN, Beiege trousers by ALL SAINTS, Braces MODELS OWN
24
26
Bowler hate by TOPSHOP, Over sized Pale demin shirt by H&M, Black Heeled boots by KURT GEIGER White trainers by CONVERSE