Berlin Fashion Week A/W 15 Trend Observations

T R E N D OBSERVATIONS

Front cover from top left across: Fig 1: Jacks Beauty Store, 2015. Fig 2: Seek Trade Show, 2015. Fig 3: LAFN2 Multipurpose Space, 2015. Fig 4: Jacks Beauty Store: Art Direction, 2015. Fig 5: Interior VM clothing line signage, 2015. Fig 6: Bikini Berlin entrance column, 2015. Fig 7: Kissing on Berlin Wall, 2015. Fig 8: Live art at Bright Trade Show, 2015.

This page: Fig 9: Geometric Pattern, Anon

C O N T E N T S VM AND IN-STORE Industrial Re-evolution Low budget high impact Meticulous mindset PRINT AND GRAPHIC Street sketcher Block party Yours sincerly CREATIVE DIRECTION Outside-In Deconstructed Expression Decoding tomorrow MENSWEAR Utilitarian X+X=Y Intrepid explorer Colour Palettes Illustrations

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Fig 10 (left): Bikini Berlin, 2015 Fig 11 (right): LAFN2 Catwalk, 2015

Fig 14: LAFN2 Lamp Shades, 2015

Fig 13: Premium Hanging Light bulbs, 2015

Fig 12: Bikini Berlin Glasses Shop, 2015

I N D U S T R I A L RE-EVOLUTION

1.1 L

arge factory spaces stripped back to expose brickwork, rough timbers, and steel structures, encompasses this overarching aesthetic. Bright trade show saw the evolution of this, with rust, stone and pipework showcasing key textures and materials, specific to this trend. Premium greeted its audience with tube lighting and free hanging light bulbs, denoting the industrial trend. The minimalistic, rustic look compliments the creative direction of foliage, using natural materials and creating a sense of making-do and recycling.

LAFN2 introduced Raw and rough surfaces juxtaposed with clean and flat

Fig 15: Premium Tube Tunnel, 2015

ones, using their space as a multipurpose platform for clothing, furniture as well as a catwalk. The popular industrial trend uses traits from Edward Wansdworth’s artistry who was influenced largely by his northern industrial environment upbringing, using the space to be honest with its components, while keeping a colour scheme encompassing warm neutral colours adding shades of grey and tones of white. Pop up mall Bikini Berlin epitomized this trend using a permanent box structure of wood and mesh metal to create their stores.

LOW BUDGET HIGH IMPACT Fig 16: Premium Trade Show: Sectioning, 2015

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uthenticity doesn’t always have to be expensive. Low budget, high impact explores this theory on a creative level, transforming undesirable objects into advantageous commodities. Resourcefulness plays a key role in this trend, as well as innovative imagination. Certain stores inside bikini berlin revolutionised their signage by creating handmade signs with gender symbols in order to state the clothing male or female.

Premium saw inventive use of sectioning, using tape on the floor to separate themselves from other competitors. Additionally the same brand created some original slogans and framed them to enhance their brand essence.

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acks beauty store was king of inventive metamorphosis, using paint splatters over their counterparts and making their magazine rack into a series of hanging bats.

This imperfect, unpolished merchandising was fresh and engaging, developing a unique in store design. Bikini Berlin developed their hanging rails by elevating them with rope, a contemporary change in in store design.

Developing objects and materials beyond their original function to create an ingenious new purpose is at theheart of this trend.

1.2 Fig 18: Premium Trade Show Signage, 2015. Fig 19: Jacks Beauty Counters, 2015. Fig 20: Gender Signage inside Bikini Berlin, 2015.

Fig 17: LAFN2, 2015

Fig 21: Jacks Beauty Store, 2015

Fig 23: Yellow Lemon Display (silverware), 2015

Fig 22: Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, 2015

M E T I C U L O U S MINS-SET

Fig 25: Yellow Lemon Display (scissors), 2015

Fig 24: Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, 2015

1.3 W

ith inquisitive attention to detail, this trend uses presentation as a tool to increase the desirability of a product. Yellow Lemon inside Bikini Berlin approached the entirety of their in store design with diligence. Mirrors arrayed to enhance vision of silver wear from different angles, and colour schemes that make macaroons look distasteful, each and every object was positioned with scrupulousness. Seek saw this in a big light, with the upstairs furniture design demonstrating compulsive measurements and specifics to realistically visualise their products in their coveted place. Designers at seek were revolutionising raw and unusual ways to present monotonous fundamentals such as the suitcase. Premium trade show was another pioneer of this trend, with brands such as ‘Some are thieves’ exhibiting their trainers in an array of positions. Much like Piet Mondrian’s specific measurements and shapes in his paintings, the precise displays showcased in Berlin left no detail unturned.

Fig 26 & 27: Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, 2015.

Fig 28: Banksy artwork, police officers kissingi, 2014

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Fig 29: Awsome graffiti from around the globe, 2013. Fig 30: Banksy Street Art, 2014 Fig 31: MTO: Photorealistic Street Art in Berlin, 2013

S T R E E T SKETCHER

Fig 33: Underpants at Bright Tradeshow, 2015

Fig 32: City sketch through glasses, Anon

2.1 Fig 34: MiAdidas store in Bikini Berlin graffiti, 2015

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he rise of illustration in fashion garments, VM and advertising was particularly apparent in Berlin.

A street-wise twist to the illustration, accompanied with an urban underground yet confident aesthetic, can be said to have been inspired by the graphic street art seen in Berlin. The use of strong vibrant colours reflects the fearlessness and confidence of today’s youth. As supported by M. Sukarieh and S. Tannock in their book ‘Youth rising: The politics of youth in the global economy’ the current movement of the ‘free teen’ subculture is said to have driven the fashion trend of

graffiti illustration: the street sketcher.

The mods and rockers movement (19501960) also saw the youth driving and instigating fashion trends. Designers such as Mary Quant and John Stephen were directly influenced by the social situation in Britain. Today, designers and brands such as Dandie Zimmerman, Shepard Fairey, Adidas and MiPac have seized influence from graffiti artwork produced by the current urban youth. layful, lively and spirited, the illustrations carry a mischievous edge to them. Strong adult humour pours out of the cartoon shapes and innuendos are

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embodied within the complex designs.

Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts, known for their eclectic and linear drawings, link directly to the character of the illustration seen in Berlin, particularly that of Cleptomanix’s garment print, Adidas’ concept store VM and Tush’s magazine front cover designs.

Fig 37: Mario Testino exhibition, 2015

Fig 36: MiAdidas shoe parts, 2015

Fig 35: Bikini Berlin Kusmi Tea sachets, 2015

B L O C K P A R T Y

2.2 B

right blocks of bold colours were seen creeping through the evident rigid formulated monochrome trend in the Berlin trade shows. Colourblocking obsessives like Peter Pilotto, Missoni and Mochino were inspiration for a handful of desginers and brands seen at the trade shows, in particular those brands based at Bright. Cleptomanix, Vans, MiPac are clear examples of this. Colours have been used in their lines as accents, emphasizing the shape, pattern of cut of the clothing.

Specific colours noted; alabama crimson, amaranth red, apple green, aqua, air force blue, capri, barbie pink, canary yellow,

deep saffron.

This evident trend has been reinforced by the designer’s spring 2015 collection that just marched in London Fashion Week.

However, it’s more Jim Lambie than Piet Mondrian. More about singular block colour pieces that come pre-loaded with stripes, grids and patchwork as opposed to mixing and fusing together coloured solids.

Fig 40: Nike store skateboards, 2015

Fig 39: Mabba phone cases: bikini berlin, 2015

Fig 38: Clothing line found at Premium trade show, 2015

YOURS S I N C E R L Y Fig 41: Graffiti on door in Berlin, 2015

2.3 ith the evolving and growing desire consumers have to be unique there is a need for brands to personalise garments and products. Calligraphy is a visual art related to writing. It is a method used to make something personal. It has been used in Islamic art and architecture for decorative purposes and now we are seeing Arabic calligraphy used in fashion. Rudolf Koch notes in his book ‘Typography designs’ the importance of a unique font and ‘how the look of lettering can change the way we emotionally feel towards the product’.

Brands at the Berlin trade shows were tapping into this emergent trend of calligraphy, displaying, showing and using hand written fonts.

The innovative idea of personalising a font specific to that brand creates an emotive feeling towards the brand. The viewer/ buyer automatically relates and connects to what is being said and directed to them.

Handwritten fonts with irregularly sized letters and weights were prevalent throughout the Berlin trade shows, in particular Seek.

Fonts that were being repeatedly used include: Ondise, Brush up, Barber shop and Goodfy.

Fig 42: Writing and illustrations in changing rooms, 2015

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Fig 43: Plant portraits that reveal tactile qualities, Anon

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Fig 45: Plant portraits that reveal tactile qualities, Anon

Fig 44: Geometric pattern, Anon

Fig 46: Plants in jungle summer leaves, 2015

O U T S I D E - I N

3.1 Fig 48: Seek Trade show entrance sign, 2015

Fig 47: Adidas concept store foliage print trainer, 2015

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clothing.

A subtle injection of nature throughout trade shows establishes knowledge of the up and coming trend, utilising it to attract attention to collections with the subtle hint of greenery and florals.

Fig 49: Jacks Beauty Store: Art Direction, 2015

ith curiosity at an all time high and the idea of escapism dominating society, the outdoors has become an increasingly desirable playground for the young nomads of today. It’s all about showcasing the outside world in an interior environment. Elements of nature injecting khaki, monochrome tones throughout collections, stripped back wood becoming a must in stores and green foliage an ever present part of store layout.

Creating serenity within the fast paced life we are now encouraged to lead is a crucial part to the creative direction and overall aesthetic throughout all platforms. Intricate patterns are formed through rich, bold foliage prints, creating an element of juxtaposition to the order and structure of interiors, footwear and

DECONSTRUCTED E X P R E S S I O N

Fig 50: Berlin Wall, 2015

3.2 Fig 51: LAFN2 Tom Hertz Catwalk collection, 2015

Fig 52: Peace symbol Berlin Wall, 2015

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raffiti in this day and age is not just an inscription on a wall; it is the complete embodiment of an individual’s personal expression, through the use of colour and pattern. The playful aesthetic and bold colours run throughout the creative direction in-store and print.

Pushing the boundaries of moral and social consensus.

The underground art forms were a big part of Berlin’s features, showcasing not just simple tags on walls, but beautiful artwork communicating through anonymity and expressing through skill.

As an active ambiance creator in public spaces, wall art was a common feature amongst stores and advertisement, injecting a playful nature into the overall creative direction. Urban outfitters particularly embodied this style, filling their interiors with graffiti

Fig 53: Amazing 3D Street Art, 2013

4 Fig 54: Fashion illustrations, 2014

Fig 55: Fashion illustrations, 2014

U T I L I T A R I A N Fig 56: German Look at Design Exhibit, 2015

Fig 57: Leather Storage Solutions, 2015

4.1 Fig 58: Preach Hanging Garments, 2015

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he design industry has slowly become more adventurous in its ways of bringing us concepts that stretch our imagination. With technology ever becoming more intelligent, the creative industries are striving to keep up and sustain aesthetics that appeal to the consumer. With the demand for function growing, innovation turns into dominating trends as buying habits steer towards practical design.

Trade shows such as Seek showcased concepts that delivered both practical and design led functions such as umbrellas that were impossible to be blown inside-out. Bikini Berlin also hosted new concepts and proposals for textiles to incorporate technology that enables safety – including built-in tracking devices and the ability for printed patterns to reflect under UV light. It is the injection of such products into these environments, that highlights the importance of utilitarian design within menswear. The notion of practicality and sensibility ruling once again.

X + X = Y Fig 59: Milly Hanging Garments at Premium Trade Show, 2015

4.2 F

rom the geometry of Berlin’s road network through to the structured frames of buildings; clean lines branched across the city and into the trends. Geometric patterns criss-crossed through garments, stretched across floors in store and crept up walls, both outside and in. Most commonly extending from architecture – designs were reflected into knitwear and through techniques such as printing and embroidery. Architects such as Norman Foster and Preston Scott Cohen could be linked to such designs. Origami pleating using structured fabrics also represented architectural themes and folded shapes were also used within garments. Patterns stemmed from grid-like themes to abstract shapes, mimicking mathematical and confident figures. Triangles were commonly featured alongside squares, pentagons and hexagons.

Fig 61: Koonhor Textile Design SS 13, Anon

Fig 60: Koonhor Textile Design SS 13, Anon

INTREPID E X P L O R E R

Fig 62: Explore Together: An Inspiration Shoot, 2013

4.3 Fig 64: Tree Lined, 2012

Fig 63: Bag & Journal, 2013

Fig 64:

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atural materials were seen across many of the trade shows and within other concepts in Berlin – using wood, foliage and stone in many designs within VM and creative direction.

Following such themes, garments and products also promoted an alfresco vibe with a huge rise in utilitarian products – suited to the Nomad. Ranging from Aztec and geometric prints in natural, earthy colours seen in accessories such as bags and blankets.

Garments also adopted the Lumberjack theme with variations on the classic style shirts, adopting new twists such as collarless, modern statements. The Intrepid Explorer beginning to become a part of trends despite his desire for freedom.

C O L O U R PALETTES

VM & IN-STORE PRINT & GRAPHIC CREATIVE DIRECTION MENSWEAR

Petroleum Pipework Quantum Quartz

Rough Timber Gladiola

Spirited Seize Exposed Brickwork

Mods & Rockers Lively Jester

Indian Summer Botanical Blueprint

Polluted Mind Whimsical Wasabi

Nymph Blade

Mineral Drift Down to Earth

ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1. Montgomerie, O (2015) Jacks Beauty Store, Own Photography Fig 2. Montgomerie, O (2015) Seek Trade Show, Own Photography Fig 3. Montgomerie, O (2015) LAFN2 Multipurpose Space, Own Photography Fig 4. Montgomerie, O (2015) Jacks Beauty Store: Art Direction, Own Photography Fig 5. Churchill, S (2015) Interior VM clothing line signage, Own photography Fig 6. Day, A (2015) Bikini Berlin entrance column, Own photography Fig 7. Jeffery. V (2015) Kissing on Berlin Wall, Own photography.

Fig 8. Montgomerie, O (2015) Live art at Bright Trade Show, Own photography Fig 9: Anon, (Anon) Geometric Pattern, [digital image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/441071357230251264/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 10: Montgomerie, O (2015) Bikini Berlin, Own Photography Fig 11: Montgomerie, O (2015) LAFN2 Catwalk, Own Photography Fig 12: Day, A (2015) Bikini Berlin Glasses Shop, Own Photography & Manipulation Fig 13: Montgomerie, O (2015) Premium Hanging Light bulbs, Own Photography Fig 14: Montgomerie, O (2015) LAFN2 Lamp Shades, Own Photography Fig 15: Montgomerie, O (2015) Premium Tube Tunnel, Own Photography Fig 16: Montgomerie, O (2015) Premium Trade Show: Sectioning, Own Photography Fig 17: Montgomerie, O (2015) LAFN2, Own Photography Fig 18: Montgomerie, O (2015) Premium Trade Show Signage, Own Photography Fig 19: Montgomerie, O (2015) Jacks Beauty Counters, Own Photography Fig 20: Montgomerie, O (2015) Gender Signage inside Bikini Berlin, Own Photography Fig 21: Montgomerie, O (2015) Jacks Beauty Store, Own Photography Fig 22: Montgomerie, O (2015) Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, Own Photography Fig 23: Montgomerie, O (2015) Yellow Lemon Display (silverware), Own Photography Fig 24: Montgomerie, O (2015) Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, Own Photography Fig 25: Montgomerie, O (2015) Yellow Lemon Display (scissors), Own Photography Fig 26 & 27: Montgomerie, O (2015) Seek Trade Show Furniture & Home wear, Own Photography Fig 28: Anon, (2014) Banksy artwork, police officers kissing, [digital image] Available at: https:// christianalilly.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/banksy-kissing-coppers-hd-3.jpg [Accessed on 25th May 2015]

Fig 29: Anon, (2013) Awsome graffiti from around the globe, [digital image] Available at: http:// iliketowastemytime.com/2013/12/26/awesome-graffiti-from-around-globe-pt2-18-pics [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 30: Lenarduzzi, S (2014) Banksy Street Art, [digital image] Available at: http://www. huffingtonpost.ca/sunny-lenarduzzi/vancouver-street-artist-banksy-iheart_b_4953880.html [Accessed on 25th may 2015] Fig 31: Yates, D (2013) MTO: Photorealistic Street Art in Berlin, [digital image] Available at:http:// andberlin.com/2013/01/29/mto-photorealistic-street-art-in-berlin/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 32: Anon, Anon, City sketch through glasses [digital image] Available at: https://www.pinterest. com/pin/306104105896447440/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 33: Montgomerie, O (2015) Underpants at Bright Tradeshow, Own Photography Fig 34: Churchill, S (2015) MiAdidas store in Bikini Berlin graffiti, Own photography Fig 35: Day, A, 2015, Bikini Berlin Kusmi Tea sachets, [photograph] own photography Fig 36: Churchill, S (2015) MiAdidas shoe parts, Own photography Fig 37: Churchill, S (2015) Mario Testino exhibition, Own photography Fig 38: Churchill, S [2015] Clothing line found at Premium trade show, own photography Fig 39: Montgomerie, O (2015) Mabba phone cases: bikini berlin, Own photography Fig 40: Montgomerie, O (2015) Nike store skateboards, Own photography Fig 41: Churchill, S [2015] graffiti on door in Berlin, own photography Fig 42: Churchill, S [2015] writing and illustrations in changing rooms, own photography Fig 43: Blossfeldt, K (Anon), Plant portraits that reveal tactile qualities, Available at: http://www. whitechapelgallery.org/exhibitions/karl-blossfeldt/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 44: Anon, (Anon) Geometric Pattern, [digital image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/518617713311919350/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 45: Blossfeldt, K (Anon), Plant portraits that reveal tactile qualities, Available at: http://www. whitechapelgallery.org/exhibitions/karl-blossfeldt/ [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 46: Anon (2014) Plants in jungle summer leaves [digital image]. crazy-frankenstein.com.

Available at: http://crazy-frankenstein.com/free-wallpapers-files/seasonal-wallpapers/summerleaves-wallpapers/plants-in-jungle-summer-leaves-wallpapers-1024x768.jpg [Accessed 26 February 2015] Fig 47: Day, A, 2015, Adidas concept store foliage print trainer, [photograph] own photography Fig 48: Day, A, 2015, Seek Trade show entrance sign, [photograph] own photography Fig 49: Montgomerie, O (2015) Jacks Beauty Store: Art Direction, Own Photography Fig 50: Day, A, 2015, Berlin Wall, [photograph] own photography Fig 51: Day, A, 2015, LAFN2 Tom Hertz Catwalk collection, [photograph] own photography Fig 52: Day, A, 2015, Peace symbol Berlin Wall, [photograph] own photography

Fig 53: Anon, 2013, Amazing 3D Street Art [ digital image]. Badsentinel. Available at: http:// badsentinel.com/2013/08/28/amazing-3d-street-art-44-photos/3d-street-art-33/#main [Accessed 7 March 2015] Fig 54: Di, M (2014) fashion illustrations [digital image] Available at: http://hand.fashionary.org/ post/62793885172/mengjie-di-fashion-illustrations-mengjie-di-is-a [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 55: Di, M (2014) fashion illustrations [digital image] Available at: http://hand.fashionary.org/ post/62793885172/mengjie-di-fashion-illustrations-mengjie-di-is-a [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 56: Day. A, 2015, German Look at Design Exhibit, own photography.

Fig 57: Churchill. S, 2015, Leather Storage Solutions, own photography.

Fig 58: Montgomerie. O, 2015, Preach Hanging Garments, own photography.

Fig 59: Churchill. S, 2015, Milly Hanging Garments at Premium Trade Show, own photography.

Fig 60: The strangely good (Anon) Koonhor Textile Design SS 13, [digital image] Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/18251219/Koonhor-Textile-Design-SS-13 [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 61: The strangely good (Anon) Koonhor Textile Design SS 13, [digital image] Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/18251219/Koonhor-Textile-Design-SS-13 [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 62: Khado, (2013) Explore Together: An Inspiration Shoot, [digital image] Available at: http:// www.khadophotography.com/blog/13892429 [Accessed on 25th May 2015] Fig 63: Suryadi. M, 2013, Bag & Journal, Online, Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ shugorei/8429668342/ Fig 64: Anon, (2012) Tree Lined, [digital image] Available at: http://highondreaming.tumblr.com/ post/53367957991

OLIVIA MONTGOMERIE YEAR 2 FASH20032

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