ANNUAL REPORT 2012
2
Agent Provocateur
CONTENTS
2012
2 SUMMARY
7 COLLECTIONS Lingerie Bridal Beach Home
Activity Report Financial Highlight Review of Operations
5 SHAREHOLDERS Board of Directors Stock Highlights
15 FINANCIALS
FROM THE CHAIRMAN 2013 was Agent Provocateur ’s best
ends in bureaucratic paralysis in
year ever. Since the IPO in 1997 both
the organization and the loss of the
turnover and EBITDA have risen more
prosperity acquired.
than threefold. EBITDA now exceeds
We are now seeing this process in
50 million euro. The proposed dividend
all areas of society on a daily basis.
also evolved in the same way, from
Everyone expects and demands more
0.70 euro to 2.15 euro. This wonderful
and wants these expectations and
achievement is no guarantee for the
demands formalized in strict rules
future. It is unjust and dangerous to
and regulations. Groups and even
expect or even demand constant
entire nations turn in on themselves
growth from a company without the
in the conviction that they are right.
odd stutter.
However, history teaches us that great prosperity can only thrive in open,
It is reminiscent of Toujours Plus by
cosmopolitan environments where
François de Closets, a bestseller
business is given great freedom.
from 1982 that has since undeservedly been forgotten. It describes how
productive and the driving force
a society or sections of a society
behind it is often nothing more than
that have acquired a great deal in
a civilized form of plundering. Just
the past rightly or wrongly not only
as the creation of complex virtual
expect this situation to continue but
assets is often simply sophisticated
also to acquire more and more. This
deception.
pressure is then formalized in some way. De Closets says that this always
Evelyn Stewart Everlyn Stewart CEO & Chairman Agent Provocateur
Agent Provocateur
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
3
2012
Garry Hogarth Chief Executive Officer Garry Hogarth was formally appointed Chief Executive Officer in November of 2004 having served as Interim CEO since July 2004. In this role, she is responsible for leading the continued growth of all Agent Provocateur businesses. Mr. Hogarth 5 years at BSkyB and was General Manager of Movies & Pay-Per-View when he left to join Agent Provocateur. Prior tothat she served as Director of Advertising Sales at US Gold and US Living. Mr. Hogarth also worked at Channel Four from 1992 to 1996, and heldposts at various advertising agencies including JWT, McCanns, Lowe Howard-Spink and GeersGross.
Dene Stratton Chief Financial Officer Dene Stratton was appointed Chief Financial Officer and a member of the Management Board in January 2005. He isresponsible for all aspects of finance, administration, business development and investor relations. Prior to joining Victoria’sSecret he worked at The Limited, as Senior Vice President, Planning & Control at Limited Inc., having held a number of roles within Limited since 1990. He began his career in public accounting with Ernst & Young in Los Angeles.
Olivier Spiner Executive Vice President of International Affairs Olivier Spiner was appointed as a member of the Management Board and Executive Vice President of International Affairsin November 1999, and is responsible for the Agent Provocateur corporate activities. Prior to joining Agent Provocateur heserved as Deputy General Manager of The Limited from 1996 and before this, from 1982, he held the positions of DeputyGeneral Manager and Chief Financial Officer at Créativité and Développement.
Oliver Fryer General Counsel Oliver Fryer was appointed as a member of the Management Board in September 2003. In his role, he is responsible for allof the Agent Provocateur contractual, legal and business affiairs issues. He previously served as Director of Legal and Business Affiairs for Agent Provocateur. Before joining the company in June 2001, Mr. Fryer worked for The Simkins Partnership and forZenith Entertainment plc, where for several years he was Director of Legal and Business Affairs.
4
Agent Provocateur
STOCK HIGHLIGHTS
2012
A YEAR IS JUST ONE IN ETERNITY AFTER ALL. WHEN YOU BUILD UP A COMPANY YOU FOCUS ON INFINITY, NOT ON A BUDGET OR A MULTI-YEAR PLAN. A ‘SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS’ HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ENVIRONMENT OR THE UNDERPRIVILEGED. THAT IS AN ALL TOO COMMON MISCONCEPTION. SUSTAINABLE MEANS BEING ABLE TO REMAIN STRONG IN THE LONG TERM AND DOING THE RIGHT THINGS EVERY DAY TO STRENGTHEN THAT SUSTAINABILITY.
24.5%
INCREASE IN NET SALES 2012
2011 $8,560,323
to
$9,460,323
Garry Hogarth was formally appointed Chief Executive Officer in November of 2004 having served as Interim CEO since July 2004. In this role, she is responsible for leading the continued growth of all Agent Provocateur businesses. Mr. Hogarth 5 years at BSkyB and was General Manager of Movies & PayPer-View when he left to join Agent Provocateur. Prior tothat she served as Director of Advertising Sales at US Gold and 2012 growth in percentage by thousands 2011 overall sales by thousands
12.7% *in thousands
ANNUAL GROWTH RATE 2011 $8,560,323
2012
to
$9,460,323
Chief Executive Officer in November of 2004 having served as Interim CEO since July 2004. In this role, she is responsible for leading the continued growth of all Agent Provocateur businesses. Mr. Hogarth 5 years at BSkyB and was General Manager of Movies & Pay-Per-View when he left to join Agent Provocateur. Prior tothat she served as Director of Advertising Sales at US Gold and US Living. Mr. Hogarth also worked at Channel Four from 1992 to 1996, and heldposts at various advertising agencies
08
09
10
11
12
5
Agent Provocateur
FINANCIAL HIGHLIGHTS
2012
Dollars in thousands except per share amounts
2012
2011
% Change
$8,560,323
$7,560,309
10.8
Earnings before income tax expense
1,120,321
878,908
24.9
Net earnings
677,323
477,322
23.0
Basic earnings per share
2.60
2.01
28.1
Diluted earnings per share
2.33
1.98
28.9
FISCAL YEAR Net Sales
Sales per Square Foot and Same-store Sales Percentage Change
Gross Profit (as a Percentage of Net Sales)
SG&A Expense (as a Percentage of Net Sales)
Earnings before Income Tax Expense (as a Percentage of Net Sales)
Inventory Turn (cost of sales and related buying and occupancy divided by average inventory)
Cash Flow from Operations (in millions)
Agent Provocateur
ACTIVITY REPORT
6
2012
A YEAR IS JUST ONE IN ETERNITY AFTER ALL. WHEN YOU BUILD UP A COMPANY YOU FOCUS ON INFINITY, NOT ON A BUDGET OR A MULTI-YEAR PLAN. A ‘SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS’ HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ENVIRONMENT OR THE UNDERPRIVILEGED. THAT IS AN ALL TOO COMMON MISCONCEPTION. SUSTAINABLE MEANS BEING ABLE TO REMAIN STRONG IN THE LONG TERM AND DOING THE RIGHT THINGS EVERY DAY TO STRENGTHEN THAT SUSTAINABILITY.
Retail Agent Provacateur continues to at-
ing to 85%, acquired a majority in the
The brand Agent Provocateur was ac-
tach importance to its own retail
Board of Directors, reached agree-
quired in the Netherlands. This retail
formats, but only alongside spe-
ment on guaranteed market share of
format unites 41 independent multi-
cialty boutiques. These remain es-
its brands in the Intimacy stores and
brand boutiques under a single flag.
sential. We address consumers with
handed the operational management
It is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
a combination of the two, and it is
to Susan and David Nethero for a set
constantly offer added value to both
on both that we should be judged.
period. Intimacy grew to 13 stores and
consumers (through its boutiques and
The main advancement was phase 2
is gradually securing a national pres-
its offering) and members (through
in the alliance with Intimacy. Agent
ence in the United States. It was not
relevant, efficient added value). Agent
Provacateur increased its sharehold-
easy, however. The crisis is not over.
Provacateur feels it is its core mission
Our customers continues to attach
to 85%, acquired a majority in the
The brand Agent Provocateur was ac-
importance to its own retail formats,
Board of Directors, reached agree-
quired in the Netherlands. This retail
but only alongside specialty bou-
ment on guaranteed market share of
format unites 41 independent multi-
tiques. These remain essential. We
its brands in the Intimacy stores and
brand boutiques under a single flag.
address consumers with a combi-
handed the operational management
It is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
nation of the two, and it is on both
to Susan and David Nethero for a set
constantly offer added value to both
that we should be judged. The main
period. Intimacy grew to 13 stores and
consumers (through its boutiques and
advancement was phase 2 in the
is gradually securing a national pres-
its offering) and members (through
alliance with Intimacy. Agent Pro-
ence in the United States. It was not
relevant, efficient added value). Agent
vacateur increased its shareholding
easy, however. The crisis is not over.
Provacateur feels it is its core mission
Customers
7
Agent Provocateur
OUR STORES
2012
NOT ONLY DO WE PRIDE OURSELVES ON OUR EROTIC CLOTHING, BUT OUR STORES THEMSELVES ARE JUST AS DECORATIVE AND ELOQUENT. WITH STORES IN 5 CONTINENTS, AND OVER 40 STORES, WE ALWAYS HAVE ROOM TO... PLAY. OUR FLAGSHIP STORES IN MANHATTAN, AMSTERDAM, AND LOS VEGAS EXEMPLIFY JUST HOW CREATIVE AGENT PROVOCATEUR GETS WITH THEIR EVERY DETAIL TO MAKE YOU FEEL WILDLY SEXY.
United Kingdom
Bicester Village Birmingham, Selfridges Glasgow London, Broadwick Street London, Harrods London, Pont Street London, Royal Exchange London, Selfridges London, Westbourne Grove Manchester, King Street Manchester, Selfridges Trafford
Europe
Amsterdam, De Bijenkorf Athens Berlin, Galeries Lafayette Copenhagen Geneva Istanbul, Harvey Nichols Lausanne Ljubljana Madrid Marbella
Milan, La Rinascente Munich, Ludwig Beck Paris, Printemps Prague Rome, Gente Stockholm Stuttgart, Breuninger Vienna Zurich, Baerengasse Zurich, Jelmoli
USA
Boston Chicago Costa Mesa, Bloomingdale’s Las Vegas Los Angeles, Melrose Avenue Los Angeles, Rodeo Drive Miami, Bal Harbour Miami, Coral Gables New York, Bloomingdale’s New York, Madison Avenue New York, Mercer Street San Francisco
Caribbean Barbados
Asia
Hong Kong, Lane Crawford Seoul, Cheongdamdong Seoul, Shinsegae
Middle East
Beirut, ABC Dbayé Mall Doha, The Qatar Pearl Dubai, Dubai Mall Dubai, Dubai Saks 5th Avenue Manama, Bahrain Moda Mall
Russia
Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow,
Crocus City Mall European Mall Malaya Bronnaya Stoleshnikov TsUM Smolenskaya Square
Agent Provocateur
8
LINGERIE HOLLY BRIDAL COLLECTION SPRING 2012 | Seduce and romance in the beautiful bridal collection from agent provocateur - perfectly marrying genuine sensuality and tempting sophistication.
2012
9
Agent Provocateur
LINGERIE AFTER A
2012
GROWTH IN TURNOVER OVER TWO YEARS PERHAPS IT WAS TIME TO PAUSE.
Agent Provacateur continues to
to attach importance to its own
attach importance to its own retail
The crisis is not over. The brand
retail formats, but only alongside
formats, but only alongside specialty
Agent Provocateur was acquired in
specialty boutiques. These remain
boutiques. These remain essential.
the Netherlands. This retail format
essential. We address consumers with
We address consumers with a
unites 41 independent multibrand
a combination of the two, and it is on
combination of the two, and it is on
boutiques under a single flag. It
both that we should be judged.
both that we should be judged. The
is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
main advancement was phase 2 in the
constantly offer added value to both
The main advancement was phase
alliance with Intimacy.
consumers (through its boutiques and
2 in the alliance with Intimacy.
its offering) and members (through
Agent Provacateur increased its
Agent Provacateur increased its
relevant, efficient added value).
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
Agent Provacateur feels it is its core
majority in the Board of Directors,
majority in the Board of Directors,
mission to invest major efforts here.
reached agreement on guaranteed
reached agreement on guaranteed
In Germany, Oreia (launched in late
market share of its brands in the
market share of its brands in the
2009) was implemented in six stores.
Intimacy stores and handed the
Intimacy stores and handed the
operational management to Susan
operational management to Susan
Oreia experienced minimal growth
and David Nethero for a set period.
and David Nethero for a set period.
(store to store), but after 30% (store
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
to store) growth in turnover over
gradually securing a national presence
gradually securing a presence in the
two years it was perhaps time to
in the United States. It was not
United States.
pause. Agent Provacateur continues
easy, however. The crisis is not over.
Agent Provocateur
10
BRIDAL HOLLY BRIDAL COLLECTION SPRING 2012 | Seduce and romance in the beautiful bridal collection from agent provocateur - perfectly marrying genuine sensuality and tempting sophistication.
2012
Agent Provocateur
BRIDAL
11
2012
Annual sales in bridal alone
412,379 *in thousands
Agent Provacateur continues to
the Netherlands. This retail format
The main advancement was phase
attach importance to its own retail
unites 41 independent multibrand
2 in the alliance with Intimacy.
formats, but only alongside specialty
boutiques under a single flag. It
Agent Provacateur increased its
boutiques. These remain essential.
is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
We address consumers with a
constantly offer added value to both
majority in the Board of Directors,
combination of the two, and it is on
consumers (through its boutiques and
reached agreement on guaranteed
both that we should be judged. The
its offering) and members (through
market share of its brands in the
main advancement was phase 2 in the
relevant, efficient added value).
Intimacy stores and handed the
alliance with Intimacy.
Agent Provacateur feels it is its core
operational management to Susan
mission to invest major efforts here.
and David Nethero for a set period.
Agent Provacateur increased its
In Germany, Oreia (launched in late
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
2009) was implemented in six stores.
gradually securing a national presence
majority in the Board of Directors,
in the United States. It was not
reached agreement on guaranteed
Oreia experienced minimal growth
easy, however. The crisis is not over.
market share of its brands in the
(store to store), but after 30% (store
The brand Agent Provocateur was
Intimacy stores and handed the
to store) growth in turnover over
acquired in the Netherlands. This
operational management to Susan
two years it was perhaps time to
retail format unites 41 independent
and David Nethero for a set period.
pause. Agent Provacateur continues
multibrand boutiques under a flag.
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
to attach importance to its own
gradually securing a presence in the
retail formats, but only alongside
It is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
United States.
specialty boutiques. These remain
constantly offer added value to both
essential. We address consumers with
consumers (through its boutiques and
The crisis is not over. The brand
a combination of the two, and it is on
its offering) and members (through
Agent Provocateur was acquired in
both that we should be judged.
relevant, efficient added value).
Agent Provocateur
12
beach HOLLY BRIDAL COLLECTION SPRING 2012 | Seduce and romance in the beautiful bridal collection from agent provocateur - perfectly marrying genuine sensuality and tempting sophistication.
2012
13
Agent Provocateur
BEACH THIS YEAR OUR BATHING SUIT SALES WENT UP BY
2012
25
%
Agent Provacateur continues to
The crisis is not over. The brand
retail formats, but only alongside
attach importance to its own retail
Agent Provocateur was acquired in
specialty boutiques. These remain
formats, but only alongside specialty
the Netherlands. This retail format
essential. We address consumers with
boutiques. These remain essential.
unites 41 independent multibrand
a combination of the two, and it is on
We address consumers with a
boutiques under a single flag. It
both that we should be judged.
combination of the two, and it is on
is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
both that we should be judged. The
constantly offer added value to both
The main advancement was phase
main advancement was phase 2 in the
consumers (through its boutiques and
2 in the alliance with Intimacy.
alliance with Intimacy.
its offering) and members (through
Agent Provacateur increased its
relevant, efficient added value).
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
Agent Provacateur increased its
Agent Provacateur feels it is its core
majority in the Board of Directors,
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
mission to invest major efforts here.
reached agreement on guaranteed
majority in the Board of Directors,
In Germany, Oreia (launched in late
market share of its brands in the
reached agreement on guaranteed
2009) was implemented in six stores.
Intimacy stores and handed the
market share of its brands in the
operational management to Susan
Intimacy stores and handed the
Oreia experienced minimal growth
and David Nethero for a set period.
operational management to Susan
(store to store), but after 30% (store
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
and David Nethero for a set period.
to store) growth in turnover over
gradually securing a national presence
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
two years it was perhaps time to
in the United States. It was not
gradually securing a presence in the
pause. Agent Provacateur continues
easy, however. The crisis is not over.
United States.
to attach importance to its own
The brand Agent Provocateur was
Agent Provocateur
14
HOME HOLLY BRIDAL COLLECTION SPRING 2012 | Seduce and romance in the beautiful bridal collection from agent provocateur - perfectly marrying genuine sensuality and tempting sophistication.
2012
15
Agent Provocateur
HOME & ACCESSORIES
2012
OUR SHEETS ARE MADE FROM
100 silk %
Agent Provacateur continues to
the Netherlands. This retail format
The main advancement was phase
attach importance to its own retail
unites 41 independent multibrand
2 in the alliance with Intimacy.
formats, but only alongside specialty
boutiques under a single flag. It
Agent Provacateur increased its
boutiques. These remain essential.
is Agent Provocateur’s mission to
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
We address consumers with a
constantly offer added value to both
majority in the Board of Directors,
combination of the two, and it is on
consumers (through its boutiques and
reached agreement on guaranteed
both that we should be judged. The
its offering) and members (through
market share of its brands in the
main advancement was phase 2 in the
relevant, efficient added value).
Intimacy stores and handed the
alliance with Intimacy.
Agent Provacateur feels it is its core
operational management to Susan
mission to invest major efforts here.
and David Nethero for a set period.
Agent Provacateur increased its
In Germany, Oreia (launched in late
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
shareholding to 85%, acquired a
2009) was implemented in six stores.
gradually securing a national presence
majority in the Board of Directors,
in the United States. It was not easy,
reached agreement on guaranteed
Oreia experienced minimal growth
market share of its brands in the
(store to store), but after 30% (store
Intimacy stores and handed the
to store) growth in turnover over
operational management to Susan
two years it was perhaps time to
and David Nethero for a set period.
pause. Agent Provacateur continues
Intimacy grew to 13 stores and is
to attach importance to its own
gradually securing a presence in the
retail formats, but only alongside
United States.
specialty boutiques. These remain essential. We address consumers with
The crisis is not over. The brand
a combination of the two, and it is on
Agent Provocateur was acquired in
both that we should be judged.
however.
Agent Provocateur
CONSOLIDATED INCOME STATEMENT
16
000 dollars
2012
2010
2009
(Note)
Turnover Other operating income Cost of materials Other expenses Personnel expenses Depreciation and amortization Operating profit
89,023 28,658 22,159 20,726 15,125 1,227 1,128
65,634 2,469 12,630 19,040 25,017 3,920 2,558
4 5 6 7 16 8
Finance income Finance costs
92,885 32,814
83,680 25,859
10
Share in profit of associates
181,908
149,314
Profit before taxes Income taxes
153,643 1,936
135,732 1,936
Profit for the year
39,937
26,596
163,262
144,949
14
8,089 3,286 519
0 2,334 724
15 16 17
36
33
18
Other comprehensive income Currency translation adjustments Net movement on cash flow hedges Total other comprehensive income Total of profit for the period and other comprehensive income
08
09
10
11
12
12,596
18,596
20,596
26,596
39,937
2012 PROFIT
14 14
Agent Provocateur
Consolidated balance sheet 000 dollars
17
2012
2010
2009
(Note)
Assets Total fixed assets Goodwill Intangible assets Tangible fixed assets Participations (equity method) Deferred tax asset Other fixed assets
89,023 28,658 22,159 20,726 15,125 1,227 1,128
65,634 2,469 12,630 19,040 25,017 3,920 2,558
4 5 6 7 16 8
Curent assets Inventories Trade and other receivables Other current assets Cash and cash equivalents
92,885 32,814 14,222 7,602 38,247
83,680 25,859 13,338 4,122 40,361
10 11 12 13
Total assets
181,908
149,314
Equity and liabilities Shareholders’ equity Share capital Treasury shares Share premium Other comprehensive income Retained earnings Non-controlling interests
153,643 1,936 -2,506 743 -9,792 163,262 8,089
135,732 1,936 - 2,625 743 -9,271 144,949 0
Total non-current liabilities Provisions Pensions Deferred tax liabilities Other non-current liabilities Total current liabilities Trade and other payables Other current liabilities Income taxes payable
3,286 519 36 0 2,731 16,890 16,436 431 23
2,334 724 33 16 0 11,248 10,721 311 216
Total equity and liabilities
181,908
149,314
MARKS OUR SEXIEST YEAR
IN 2012 WE SAW AN
14 14
14 15 16 17 18 19 19
82%INCREASE IN SALES OVERSEAS
Agent Provocateur
OUR NEXT MOVES
18
2012
“THE PEOPLE WHO WORK HERE ARE SO PASSIONATE ABOUT THE BRAND IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO BE POSITIVE ABOUT THE FUTURE,”
Corré, who is the son of designer
coming months. “By the end of the
so much with Agent Provocateur -
Vivienne Westwood and ex-Sex Pis-
week we will have signed a fragrance
he wanted to move on to new chal-
tols manager Malcolm McLaren, will
deal, jewellery is coming in association
lenges,” Hogarth told VOGUE.COM
remain a shareholder of the lingerie
with BJB, sunglasses, umbrellas and
this afternoon. “The business is going
brand but will have no creative input.
we are also in talks about bedding
well; we are four per cent up on last
He will concentrate on his menswear
which fits the brand perfectly. We
year and we have a very strong design
label, A Child of the Jago, and other
also have about seven international
team, so we are very confident about
store openings projected for this year;
the future. We won’t be looking to
It seems the product will continue
including Moscow, Switzerland, Korea,
replace Joe.”
as before without Corré, as Hogarth
Malaysia, Spain and Eastern Europe.”
revealed that he has not designed the
“The people who work here are so
Corré, who is the son of designer
collections over recent seasons but
passionate about the brand it would
Vivienne Westwood and ex-Sex Pis-
rather has overseen the work of head
be impossible not to be positive about
tols manager Malcolm McLaren, will
designer Sarah Shotton -who has
the future,” he enthused. JOE CORRÉ
remain a shareholder of the lingerie
been with the brand for 10 years. She
co-founder of lingerie label Agent
brand but will have no creative input.
will continue to produce the range
Provocateur - has left the business,
He will concentrate on his menswear
with her team.And as for the future of
the company’s ceo Garry Hogarth told
label, A Child of doom.
Agent Provocateur? “Over the past few months Joe has “We have several licensing deals in
been focusing on other projects and
the pipeline,” Hogarth revealed of the
I think he just felt - having achieved