Trend booklet start

T R E N D R E P O R T

AW 16/17 ELIZABETH CLARKE

01-06.

Print & graphics - Reborn racer revolution.

07-10.

Print & graphics - The DIY Generation.

11-14.

Print & graphics - Photography booth.

15-20.

Menswear & sportswear - ‘Masculine’ ‘Femininity’.

CONTEN

21-24.

Menswear & sportswear - Mutant militant.

25-26.

Menswear & sportswear - Hitting the slopes.

27-30.

VM - Geometric psychadelia.

31-32.

VM - White wonderland.

NTS

33-34.

VM - Minimalistic rails.

34 +.

Image references.

&

PRINT

GRAPHICS

03.

REBORN RACER REVOLUTION

Margiela- AW 16

Yeezy- Third season

Margiela- AW 16

04.

The racer jersey and suit returns, with a heavier emphasis on exaggerated print, and more electric colours. Designers have adapted trends that we’ve seen in the past that focused on motifs, and injected graphic colour blocking, with red, blue, white and black thick stripes for impact. We’re seeing designs focused on monochrome chequerboard grids, paired with electric brights, as shown on the Margiela catwalk with bold and boisterous colours. Along with this, the Virgil Abloh AW 16/17 ‘Offwhite’ show presents the recognisable and distinct chequered race flag print.

05.

KEY FEATURES Three-dimensional geometrics are a centre point for the print and graphics of the racer revolution.

Garments showcase illusion effects, sliced sections on pieces of clothing, tricking the naked eye by utilising diferent scales, shapes and dimentions.

DIESEL

OBLIVION

DANGER

FORMULA ORANGE

YELLOW LINES

BEHIND THE TREND...

Evolving from the ‘leather biker jacket’, the racer revolution is born. A new rebellious looking, leather and lycra dominated trend. With Lewis Hamilton turning everbody into a formula 1 fan, there’s no doubt designers grabbed this opportunity to set the next new craze.

With the 2016 Rio olympics approaching, this is sure to be a trend that will be adapted and evolve as the year progresses, intertwining fashion and sportwear, taking elements from the colour , prints and texture used for traditional sporting uniforms.

06.

Liam HodgesAW 16

KTZ menswear - AW 16

Virgil Abloh AW 16 off white menswear collection

07.

Alexander McqueenAW 16

THE D.I.Y GENERATION Alexander McqueenAW 16

Phiney PetAW 16

08.

Lea PeckreAW 16

Versace menswear- AW 16 Designers are inspired by emojis, cartoon illustrations and fast food chains , accompanied with catchy slogans in order to create a kitsch inspired theme. Applique is key in this trend, as badges are either sparingly scattered all over a garment, or clustered together to create a busy, playful design. This recognisable trend hits us with a sense of nostalgia , with strong references from the 90’s punk and skate scene, mixed in with a modern day social media aesthetic. Tradtitionally associated with denim jackets and back packs, this trend is branching out this AW 16/17, as designers such as Gucci and Versace, are adapting it to fit in with high end fashion.

09.

Clio Peppiatt AW 16

DIY generations core charachteristics consist of stripping back to basics with, embroidery, applique designs, velcro & pin badges and iron on designs.

These homespun effects, mixed with humorous designs, appeal mainly to younger audiences, however now the AW16 trend is hitting the likes of Gucci and Versace, a whole new light is being shed on the aesthetic.

10.

Gucci- AW 16

DEEP OCEAN

Sacai- AW 16

LUST

FRECKLED SHINE

Gucci- AW 16

ORCHID

PRETTY IN...

SEAPUNK

INDULGE

11.

PHOTOGRAPHY BOOTH Christopher Kane - AW 16

Digital prints are making a powerful comeback this AW 16/17.

Keeping up the nostralgia theme, these neutral coloured prints have been appearing both full canvas, and smaller/ more basic front or back placements. Watch out for these juxtaposing prints, either representing futuristic designs, or flashbacks from the 50/60’s.

12.

Matthew Miller- AW 16

13.

SAMPAIX -

Genderless & seasonless, up and coming streetwear brand, embracing the photography placement trend this AW 16/17.

GREYSCALE

COBALT

PURE

SATURATION

SEPIA

DIGITAL PRINT BRANDS TO WATCH Grind London, RVLT - Revolution, Dedicated, Obey, Mimm, Stussy.

14.

Les Benjamins - AW 16 The trend obtains a rebellious streak. It made it’s way through initially, by conquering the streetwear brands, and is now breaking through the industry to high end. What does the future hold for this diverse trend? The horizon could broaden as we begin to see more wearable memories on garments.

&

MENSWEAR

SPORTSWEAR

17.

‘FEMIMINE’

Vivienne Westwood- AW 16

There has been a positive rise of gender fluidity encouraged throughout the fashion industry and society in recent years, This is being projected into a trend, illustrated in the garments we wear and the way we percieve garments visually.

18.

‘MASCULINITY’

Vivienne Westwood- AW 16

Moschino- AW 16

The trend explores the notions and use of a mix in colours, silhouettes and textures that are traditionally associated with feminine qualities. This was shown to us throughout AW 16 catwalks such as Vivienne Westwood, Moschino, Yeezy and many more.

19.

Milan fashion week street style.

GucciAW 16

AW 16,

Breaking gender bounderies and challenging gender expectations, designers have shown this through both subtle and obvious designs that one can percieve and interpret how they desire.

20.

FLUID FUCHSIA

MSGMAW 16 FLUSH

VERSATILE VIOLET

BOYS IN BLUE

EARTH CHILDREN

NEUTRAL SILVER

STARLESS

WHY? x The recent tragic death of David Bowie, re enforcing the importance of creative exploration.

(For 2017) x The constant rise of feminism, socially and culturally.

21.

THE MILITARISTIC MOVEMENT Vivienne WestwoodAW 16

22.

Agi & SamAW 16

‘The militaristic movement’.

Reinterpreting the traditional military uniform into casual, minimal and wearable pieces.

These uniforms with a twist, project dominant qualities , brought to effect with key pieces and block silhoutettes such as the utility shirt and the bomber jacket.

23.

Jim SanderAW 16

As the army and military theme continues to trend, this AW 16/17 we are being more heaviy introduced to the knit wear side of this popular trend. Simple silhoutettes are being re worked with oversized pockets and shoulder detailing, along with introduction of textures such as faux fur. This illustrates to us less of a masculine angle to the trend. A refreshing juxtaposition is brought to the catwalk with the soft knit wear textures, paired with the traditional straight lace military theme.

24.

N21AW 16/17

UTILITY BROWN

SAND

KHAKI GREEN

BATTLESHIP BLUE

ALUMINIUM

25.

HITTING THE S

With the Rio olymipics closley approaching, it was inevitable that a sporting suit trend be introduced this AW 16, and consequently follow through into AW 17.

LOP

BLIZZARD BLUE

RACE IN RED

DARK SHIVER

The likes of Tommy Hilfiger, Armani and Sadie Williams have presented us with their on trend, futuristic interpretation of ‘on the slopes’ fashion. Pairing the experimental silhouettes, with the contemporary and experimental materials.

SNOW SEASON

ICE ICE BABY

Tommy HilfigerAW 16

ES

26.

Sadie WilliamsAW 16

Emporio ArmaniAW 16

&

VISUAL MERCHANDISING

IN STORE

29.

GEOMETRIC

Iguaneye Tokyo.

30.

PSYCHEDELIA Geometric shapes are an evident trend for VM in 2016.

As it seems to be increasing in popularity, this AW 16/17 we may be seeing it much more widesread across retail and high end displays. This fun and playful theme adds interest and dimension to a display, with a variaty in proportion and shapes, the audience is intruiged and drawn to the illusion. Optical maze like rooms and linear graphics cause confusion on what is up or down, challenging the viewers mind. This trend was originally inspired by art installations, as a diverse and creative trend the designer is free to use whatever colour palette they please, popular choices include monochrome or bold/ neon colours.

Seibu Shibuya, womenswear Tokyo.

31.

WHITE Christopher Kane - London

Displaying items in a minimalist, clean and tidy form has been a growing trend over the past few years. We’re now seeing it evolve from the more monochrome tones, to a bold contrast of the white virginal surfaces, paired with bright and bold garments. This timeless trend allows the items on show to be the main focus of the room, as your eyes are instantly drawn to the colour. The serenity of the pure, clean walls evoke feelings of relaxation, and therefore offers the customer a tranquil retail experience.

INSTRMNT Glasgow

32.

WONDERLAND Bolhao Portugal

Pleats please, Paris

33.

MINIMALIST RAILS

A key emerging trend emerging consists of minimalistic and rustic looking rails, spread accross the store holding up the garments extremely neatly. These rails are usually built suspended from the ceiling and carry on continuously throughout the store, occasionally linking through to other rooms, making the most of small spaces. The aim is to portray a seamless overall look, making the customer feel at home in a de cluttered environment. The rails are often robust, and construction based inspiration is used, with rose gold/ polished steel colours.

34.

Acne studios London

Nowhere Dublin

Cabane De Zucca - Tokyo

COVER IMAGE ShowStudio, Versace official instagram, (2016), Milan Menswear A/W 2016 Roundup Report [ONLINE].

Available at: http://showstudio.com/collection/milan_ menswear_a_w_2016/instagram_115751

REBORN RACER REVOLUTION - Left to right.

ANTONIOLI.EU, (2016), MAISON MARGIELA FW16 [ONLINE].

Available at: http://journal.antonioli.eu/2016/01/ maison-margiela-fw16-2/ DAZED, (2016), YEEZY SEASON 3 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/21463/1/yeezy-season-3 ANTONIOLI.EU, (2016), MAISON MARGIELA FW16 [ONLINE].

Available at: http://journal.antonioli.eu/2016/01/ maison-margiela-fw16-2/ DEFUZE Magazine. ASHTON ELLI. 2016. READY FOR THE RACES WITH LIAM HODGES FW16. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.defuzemag. co.uk/ready-for-the-races-with-liam-hodges-fw16/.

DEFUZE Magazine. ASHTON ELLI. 2016. READY FOR THE RACES WITH LIAM HODGES FW16. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.defuzemag. co.uk/ready-for-the-races-with-liam-hodges-fw16/.

BUSINESS OF FASHION, (2016), Menswear - Autumn 2016 KTZ [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/ fashion-week/2016aw-mens/ktz/collection/look/1

Collections - SHOWstudio - The Home of Fashion Film. . 2016.

Paris Menswear A/W 2016 OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH. [ONLINE] Available at: http://showstudio.com/collection/off_white_c_o_ virgil_abloh_paris_menswear_a_w_2016.

DIY GENERATION - Bottom left to right.

UNIQUE STYLE PLATFORM, (2016), A/W 16/17 PRINT & PATTERN: EMOJI ICONS CONTINUE [ONLINE]. Available at: http:// uniquestyleplatform.com/blog/2016/03/30/aw-1617-print-patternemoji-icons-continue/ phineypet, (2016), AW/16 LOOKBOOK [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.phineypet.com/aw16-lookbook Graveravens, (2016), Lea Peckre Ready to Wear F/W 2016 PFW [ONLINE]. Available at: http://graveravens.com/2016/03/01/leapeckre-ready-to-wear-fw-2016-pfw/ Vogue. 2016. Versace Fall 2016. [ONLINE] Available at: http:// www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/versace/slideshow/collection#21.

Wonderland Magazine. 2016. LFW | Clio Peppiatt AW16 | Wonderland Magazine - Wonderland Magazine . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2016/02/lfw-cliopeppiatt-aw16/.

Highsnobiety. 2016. Gucci Fall/Winter 2016 | Highsnobiety.

[ONLINE] Available at: http://www.highsnobiety. com/2016/01/18/gucci-fall-winter-2016/.

Graveravens, (2016), Sacai Ready to Wear F/W 2016 PFW [ONLINE].

Available at: http://graveravens.com/2016/03/07/sacai-ready-towear-fw-2016-pfw/ Highsnobiety. 2016. Gucci Fall/Winter 2016 | Highsnobiety. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.highsnobiety. com/2016/01/18/gucci-fall-winter-2016/.

DIY GENERATION - Left to right.

VOGUE, LUKE LEITCH. 2016. FALL 2016 MENSWEAR Christopher Kane.

[ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall2016-menswear/christopher-kane.

Wonderland Magazine. 2016. LC:M | Matthew Miller AW16 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2016/01/lcmmatthew-miller-aw16/.

Instagram. 2016. SAMPAIX STUDIO BY JK (@sampaixstudio) • Instagram photos and videos . [ONLINE] Available at: https:// www.instagram.com/sampaixstudio/.

Author; Alec Leach. Photography; Eva Al Desnudo for Highsnobiety. 2016. Les Benjamins Envisions “Ottoman Punk” With Fall/Winter 2016 Collection. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www. highsnobiety.com/2016/01/18/les-benjamins-fall-winter-2016/.

‘FEMININE’ MASCULINITY’ - Left to right.

Essential-Homme, (2016), Vivienne Westwood – Fall/Winter 2016 – Milano Moda Uomo [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.essentialhomme.com/vivienne-westwood-fall-winter-2016-milano-moda-uomo/ fuckingyoung, (2016), Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 by Adriano B. [ONLINE]. Available at: http://fuckingyoung. es/moschino-fallwinter-2016/ fuckingyoung, (2016), Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 by Adriano B. [ONLINE]. Available at: http://fuckingyoung.es/moschinofallwinter-2016/

VOGUE, (2016), AUTUMN/WINTER 2016-17 MENSWEAR [ONLINE].

Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ mens/gucci VOGUE, (2016), MSGM FALL 2016 MENSWEAR [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/msgm/ slideshow/collection/print

THE MILITARISTIC MOVEMENT - Left to right.

The wolf highstreet , (2016), Vivienne Westwood says Be Specific at Milan Menswear AW16 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www. thewolfofhighstreet.com/2016_01_01_archive.html

VOGUE, photographer; Kim WestonArnold. 2016. FALL 2016 MENSWEAR Agi & Sam. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2016-menswear/agi-sam/slideshow/collection#30.

Madame.lefigaro.fr. 2016. FALL 16/17 MENSWEAR Jil Sander.

[ONLINE] Available at: http://madame.lefigaro.fr/defiles/jilsander/automne-hiver-2016-2017/homme/111779#diaporama-933758_4.

DeuxHommes, (2016), A MODERN UNIFORM: N°21 MEN’S FALL/WINTER 2016 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.deuxhomm.es/n21-mensfallwinter-2016/

HITTING THE SLOPES - Left to right.

VOGUE, MAYA SINGER. 2016. FALL 2016 MENSWEAR Tommy Hilfiger.

[ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall2016-menswear/tommy-hilfiger.

DEZEEN. 2016. Sadie Williams retro ski wear AW 16. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/02/21/sadie-williamsretro-ski-wear-futuristic-twist-for-off-piste-autumn-winter2016-collection-london-fashion-week/.

NOWFASHION, (2016), EMPORIO ARMANI [ONLINE]. Available at: https://nowfashion.com/brands/emporio-armani

GEOMRTRIC PSYCHADELIA - Left to right.

ALL IMAGES WGSN, Laura Saunter . 2016. Colour-Blocked Space – Store Design & VM Trend . [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/65840/page/11.

WHITE WONDERLAND - Left to right.

ALL IMAGES WGSN, Laura Saunter . 2016. White Out – Emerging Store Design Trend . [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/65315/page/9.

MINIMALIST RAILS - Left to right.

Magacin, Sabrina Nicole, (2016), Trend: minimalism [ONLINE].

Available at: http://www.magacin.com/fotogalerias/tendenciaminimalismo/#bentley_022b_hr WGSN, Laura Saunter . 2016. Continuous Rails – Emerging Store Design Trend. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/64213/page/3.

WGSN, Laura Saunter . 2015. Soft Industrial – Emerging Store Design Trend . [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/58922/page/9.

ELIZABETH CLARKE