AUGUST 2014
Portrait of an Artist Roxanne Swentzell
S A NTA F E | A L BU Q U E R QUE | TAOS
A TAST E OF LIF E I N N EW M EXI CO
Sustainable Sunday Dinners Lodge & Restaurant Sustainable Sunday Dinners Lodge Lodge & & Restaurant Restaurant F A R M to M O U N T A I N to T A B L E FF A A R R M M to to M M O O U UN N T TA A II N N to to T TA A B B LL EE
Serving four-course, locally grown, Serving four-course, locally grown, Serving four-course, locally grown,evening seasonally inspired menus every Sunday seasonally inspired menus every Sunday seasonallyatinspired menus Restaurant. every Sunday evening evening The Bavarian at The Bavarian Restaurant. at The Bavarian Restaurant. Dinners hosted by: Dinners Dinners hosted hosted by: by: Aug 3 // BENJI APODACA & STUDENTS Aug APODACA & Aug 33 // // BENJI BENJIHigh APODACA & STUDENTS STUDENTS Taos School Culinary Arts Taos High School Culinary Taos High School Culinary Arts Arts Aug 10 // BERNADETTE LUCERO Aug LUCERO Aug 10 10 // // BERNADETTE BERNADETTE LUCERO Rio Culebra Rio Culebra Rio Culebra Aug 17 // KAREN TODD Aug TODD Aug 17 17 // // KAREN KAREN DragonflyTODD Café Dragonfl y Dragonfly Café Café Aug 24 // GRAND FINALE DINNER Aug FINALE DINNER Aug 24 24 // // GRAND GRAND FINALE DINNER with William Topley with William Topley with William Topleyof The Next Generation The Next Generation of The Next Generation Sustainable Farmers of Sustainable Sustainable Farmers Farmers
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Available at Anita Louise Salon at 128 N. Guadalupe St. Santa Fe 505 988-8907 or Shop at www.LRModernAlchemy.com
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Reserve your place at the table! Reserve your place table! ReserveCall your place at at the the table! Reservations required. 575-776-8020 or visit thebavarian.com. Reservations required. Call 575-776-8020 or visit The Bavarian required. Restaurant Call is located 2 miles from the of Taos Ski Valley. Reservations 575-776-8020 orVillage visit thebavarian.com. thebavarian.com. The Bavarian Restaurant is located 2 miles from the Village of Taos Ski Valley. The Bavarian Restaurant is located 2 miles from the Village of Taos Ski Valley.
Taos Solar Music Festival Taos Solar Music Taos The SolarBavarian Music Festival Festival with Restaurant with The Bavarian Restaurant with The an Bavarian Restaurant presents intimate evening with presents an intimate presents an intimate evening evening with with
WILLIAM TOPLEY WILLIAM TOPLEY THE BAVARIAN RESTAURANT • TAOS SKI VALLEY, NM THE THE BAVARIAN BAVARIAN RESTAURANT RESTAURANT •• TAOS TAOS SKI SKI VALLEY, VALLEY, NM NM
Sustainable Sunday Dinner Grand Finale Sustainable Sunday Dinner Grand SustainableSunday, SundayAugust Dinner24 Grand Finale Finale Sunday, August 24 Sunday, August 24 Dinner and Show $50. Dinner begins at 5:30pm Dinner Show begins includeDinner tax and gratuity.) Dinner and and (Does Shownot$50. $50. Dinner begins at at 5:30pm 5:30pm (Does not include tax and gratuity.) (Does not include tax and gratuity.) Show only $25. Music begins at 7:30pm. Show $25. begins at Show only only $25. Music Music begins at 7:30pm. 7:30pm. Tickets available online: thebavarian.com Tickets available online: thebavarian.com Tickets available online: thebavarian.com Info: facebook.com/taossolarmusicfestival Info: facebook.com/taossolarmusicfestival Info: facebook.com/taossolarmusicfestival
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Come Enjoy the Best Patio in Santa Fe! Open Everyday for Lunch and Dinner 231 Washington Ave Santa Fe • 505-984-1788 • santacafe.com •
Riding High Since1976
M ontecristi custom hat works
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322 MCKENZIE STREET • SANTA FE, NM 87501 505.983.9598 • MONTECRISTIHATS.COM
A unique Blend of Flavor & History is Closer Than you Think!
Inside: The Buzz … and the Art Buzz
ON OUR COVER: Roxanne Swentzell
by Kelly Koepke 8 Happy Hour in The Spirit Lounge From 3:30–6:30 Tuesday- Friday
110 Main Street Southwest • Los Lunas, NM 87031 (505) 865-7333 • lunamansion.com •
What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not ……. that’s the buzz!
Roxanne Swentzell by Gail Snyder 14
She calls her home, Flowering Tree. This is our portrait of the artist as permaculturist.
Shiprock
by Ana June 18
Since the 1860s, the family of Jed Foutz has been an integral part of bringing Native American art to the world … meet the owner of one of Santa Fe’s most prestigious galleries.
A New Voice 144 Main Street Los Lunas, NM 87031 (505)865-5511 •
Torres Family Restaurants on Historic Route 66
by Mia Carbone 24
Don’t miss this interview with the founders of the Indigenous Fine Art Market—a new voice and a new vision of what it means to be Native.
Cycles of Life … The Vision Quest of Jake Foreman by Emily Beenen 28
An extraordinary young man follows a quest half-way round the world and returns to his home in Albuquerque to share his vision. Home Building Santa Fe Style
The Pour
by Erin Brooks 32
Sommelier Erin Brooks guides you through the mystery of deciphering wine lists—then gives you a little cheat sheet on the side. A
P A R A D E
O F
Loyal Hound
H O M E S
by Erin Brooks 36
Midtown is all abuzz about the newest eatery to open in the neighborhood. Roll out the red carpet for Dave Readyhough and Renee Fox and the Loyal Hound!
Chef Johnny Vee Wants to Know by John Vollertsen 40
The Pueblo Harvest Cafe and Bakery (tucked in the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center) is a hidden jewel of Native cuisine and a fun place to experience Native fusion dishes.
Still Hungry?
by Mia Carbone 44
Santa Fe’s Best Open House
Mark Kiffin takes center stage this month and shares four incredible recipes served at his iconic restaurant, The Compound.
AUGUST 15-17 & 22-24, 2014 11 AM - 6 PM. Don’t miss the Twilight Tour on Friday, August 22nd from 4 PM to 9 PM for select homes. Tickets are only $15.00. For ticket information visit sfahba.com. SANTA FE AREA HOME BUILDERS ASSOCIATION 1409 Luisa Street, Suite A, Santa Fe • 505.982.1774
DESTINATION
AUGUST
2014 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant: Mia Rose Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kitty Leaken Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Margret Henkels 505.501.2290. Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte
505.504.8130. Carrie Carter 806.407.2455. Amber Gillreath 505.235.9216. Tyler Schutte 505.238.9604.
223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above
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address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
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2014 Food+Folklore Festival · September 12–14
LISTEN TO YOUR [THREE] SISTERS … And experience a captivating weekend of scrumptious New Mexico breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and tastings. Plus conversations with more than 60 noted scholars, James Beard Award-winning authors and chefs, renowned artists — even a team of Pueblo grandmothers — all serving up more than you can shake a spoon at! Enjoy lots of great food, drink, and camaraderie with your fellow food enthusiasts at FUZE.SW 2014, where we explore the past and present, the folklore and the customs that created a uniquely New Mexico culinary tradition. This year’s focus is on Native American foodways. Learn how time-honored indigenous practices can better inform us and our various culinary traditions today.
For more event info, call 505.476.1162 or visit fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org. FUZE.SW 2014 will take place on Museum Hill at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art.
Your registration includes a weekend of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and tastings. REGISTRATION: · $200 Early-bird price before August 19 · $200 for MNMF, Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and Santa Fe Botanical Garden members · $250 After August 19 · Educators and students, please call 505.476.1162 about scholarships PURCHASE: · In the shops at the Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture · Online at museumfoundation.org/fuze Registration proceeds benefit the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art and a portion of the price is tax-deductible.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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F O O D
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G A R D E N S
T O U R
HARVEST DINNERS
S M A L L I N T I M AT E G AT H E R I N G S W I T H F R I E N D S
September 13, 6pm A different kind of garden tour at private homes where guests will revel in the surroundings, explore the host garden, and enjoy spectacular meals prepared with locally grown ingredients. Guests are randomly assigned to one dinner location. $100 per person, includes cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, a tour, meal with drinks, parking, and good company. Space is limited. WWW.SANTAFEBOTANICALGARDEN.ORG/EVENTS · 505-471-9103 P R O C E E DS SUP P O RT THE GARDEN’S EDUCATI ON PROG RAMS
Visit Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill · 715 Camino Lejo · Open Daily, 9am–5pm
Letter The first time that I saw one of Roxanne Swentzell’s works, I was so touched that it brought tears to my eyes—and she saw me. And she smiled shyly, but immediately turned away as if not to intrude on such a private moment. I have followed her work ever since and I cannot tell you what an honor it is to have her on the cover of Local Flavor these many years later. Yes, we honor her as an artist, but our story centers on her decision to live her everyday life simply—tied to the principles of permaculture (permanent culture as she puts it) —and the traditions of her people.
This is a tough story to follow, but we think that you will be just as inspired by our interview with the three free spirits heading up the newly formed Native art market—IFAM—the Indigenous Fine Art Market. Only time will tell the impact that this market will have, but it is surely a testament to the vibrancy and boundless possibilities that Native art and culture are experiencing today. In this same maverick category is a young man from Albuquerque named Jake Foreman, home from a vision quest that took him half-way round the world and back home to make a difference. I am sure it is not the last you will be hearing about him. Each year in August, nearly two hundred thousand people are drawn to Santa Fe from all over the world to experience the beauty of our city and the beauty of Native art. Other cities in the West have galleries and markets and such, but ours is in a class by itself, and one of the reasons is because of the singular experience that our galleries offer. In this issue you will meet the owner of one of the city’s most prestigious galleries, Shiprock Santa Fe. Jed Foutz hails from a pioneer family that has been a real part of the West for decades, owning and supplying and running trading posts on the Pueblos since the 1860s. Those are the credentials, the genuine ties to the land and the people that set us apart. Like the artists they represent, they are “New Mexico True.” Our wine story this month is a favorite of mine because it is so very practical. Erin Brooks, sommelier and monthly contributor to Local Flavor unravels the mystery of reading a wine list and talks about what is trending in our own local restaurant scene. Topping it off with a little cheat sheet that you can clip out and keep was a winner, too. There are two restaurants highlighted this month, the Loyal Hound in Santa Fe and Pueblo Harvest Cafe in Albuquerque—as well as a jampacked Buzz that promises to keep you in the know. Enjoy every moment of the marvelous month ahead and most of all, we hope that you enjoy this issue of Local Flavor.
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Photo: Gabriella Marks
N E W
IFAM august 21-23 . santa fe railyard . free admission . indigefam.org
INDIGENOUS FINE ART MARKET
heart
soul
spirit
community facebook.com/indigefam instagram.com/indigefam twitter.com/indigefam art: farrell cockrum
recently by long time Albuquerque restaurateur Nick Kapnison and partners, Mykonos now has a new bar with multicolored bubble wall, a bigger and more efficient kitchen and a new private room for groups and private parties, as well as all new floors throughout the place and brand new bathrooms and furniture. The revised menu features traditional Greek cuisine based on Kapnison’s family recipes. Kapnison is also co-owns Nick & Jimmy’s, El Patron Restaurant & Cantina, and Kaps Coffee Shop. Call 505.291.1116 to confirm hours.
ALBUQUERQUE
If you’re a devotee of Tia Betty Blue’s blue corn waffles (and really, who isn’t?), then you’ll soon be scarfing down the crisp cakes at Tia B’s La Waffleria. The new waffle restaurant from Tia’s owner Daniel Boardman, La Waffleria is tucked behind Fan Tang at Campus and Carlisle, and features gluten-free and vegan waffle options, in addition to some 20 combinations both sweet (dark chocolate raspberry) and savory (chicken mole). Build your own from seven different waffle batters and a long list of add-ins. So when you need your carb fix, head over for breakfast or lunch, seven days a week. I’ll meet you for the buckwheat sour cream smoked salmon waffle.
| Nick Kapnison Up in the Heights, Mykonos Cafe & Taverna is preparing to reopen by the beginning of August after an extensive remodel and menu overhaul. Purchased
Photo: Gabriella Marks
If you’ve been to Old Town lately, you may have hit Backstreet Grill (1919 Old Town Road). This (not so little anymore) joint started as an off-the-beaten-path eatery and has blossomed into a full-scale, fullservice restaurant featuring locally sourced ingredients, including beers and wines crafted right here in New Mexico. There’s also the beautiful large patio. The quality food and customer service have made this a local and tourist favorite. We hear their prickly pear and mango margaritas are killer, too. Call 505.842.5434 for hours.
| Executive Chef Tom Kerpon | Jeff and Katie Spiegel and John Haas of M’Tucci’s M’Tucci’s Kitchina exploded onto the scene last year, and now has plans to open a New York-style Italian deli a cannoli’s throw from its Coors and Montaño location. Katie Gardner and husband Jeff Spiegel plan a counter full of homemade meats and cheeses and other deli staples, with space to enjoy a custom-made sandwich. Look for a fall opening, under the M’Tucci’s name. Until then, visit M’Tucci’s Kitchina at kitchinaabq. com. Also on the West Side, Safari Grill, known for its food truck African specialties, has found a permanent home. Co-owner Bill Young, who hails from Tanzania, focuses on the cuisine of East Africa: samosas, Mishkaki (skewers of marinated, grilled chicken or beef ) with scratch-made sauces, as well as burgers and ribs. A beer and wine license is in the works, at Alameda near the Ellison intersection. Visit thesafarigrill.com.
Congrats to The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, one of Santa Fe’s most highly acclaimed resort locations, for bringing on Executive Chef Tom Kerpon as its new head chef. Kerpon has worked as an executive chef in Santa Fe for more than 13 years, enticing customers at the Inn of the Anasazi, Rio Chama and most recently at Tanti Luce 221. His extensive professional experience and highly-respected reputation made him an obvious choice to take over the culinary operation of Bishop’s Lodge. Chef Tom’s a big community supporter, too, having served on the board of directors for the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta for eight years, and as president in 2010 and 2011. His community work includes the Cooking with Kids program, which promotes nutritional instruction and cooking lessons for elementary school children; ArtFeast, which raises money for art supplies for the Santa Fe Public School system; and Big Brothers Big Sisters of Northern New Mexico. Rio Chama has a new chef, too. Tony Blankenship started in May and has rolled out his new menu, with a focus on dinner. The steakhouse is now offering dishes like burrata tomato salad with heirloom tomatoes, balsamic Jell-O, basil oil and watercress, alongside pan seared wild salmon with artichoke-asparagus ragout, wild mushroom and pea sprouts. Meat’s still a staple, with options like juniper elk
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tenderloin, grilled boar sausage, duck confit hash and broccolini (the Mountain Mixed Grill). Blankenship hails from small town Illinois, and earned his culinary stripes at Hotel Santa Fe, Rancho Encantado and The Club at Las Campanas. Welcome aboard, chef!
| Executive Chef Tony Blankenship Congratulations to Downtown Subscription on the occasion of its 30th anniversary. The venerable coffee shop and magazine stand with the awesome outdoor patio deserves a hip hurrah! Stop in, collect a commemorative T-shirt or coffee mug, wish them a happy birthday and indulge with a pastry and cuppa.
SANTA FE
Photo: Gabriella Marks
You know what downtown Albuquerque didn’t have? An Indian restaurant. Now it does. Ketan Patel will open Am Spices of India at 317 Central Ave. SW in August, featuring vegetarian pakoda, samosa, Indian street pizza, mango shakes and masala tea. It is offering catering and tiffin delivery services, too. Contact 505.492.3570 for details.
Sundays and yoga and margaritas. How’s that for a triple dose of awesome? You can have them all at El Pinto this summer. Each Sunday at 10 a.m., join local instructors for some exercise in the El Pinto Park, a gorgeous space that is used for weddings and special events. Your $5 donation gets you $10 off your brunch if you stay after the one hour class! What a deal (and the class is tented in case of drizzles). Visit elpinto.com for more.
The legal profession can be extraordinarily stressful. That’s why two New Mexico lawyers, Hallie Love and Nathalie Martin, teamed up to write Yoga for Lawyers: Mind-Body Techniques to Feel Better All the Time. Martin has taught law at the University of New Mexico School of Law and Temple University School of Law for the past 16 years. Love, based in Santa Fe and a member of the International Association of Yoga Therapists, is nationally certified in yoga therapy, Pilates and positive psychology. With photos detailing the exercises and written descriptions of how and why to do them, Yoga for Lawyers offers techniques that can be practiced at home, in the office and even during a break from the courtroom. The results are real: yoga has been shown to energize the body, improve sleep and concentration, and enhance the overall state of mind and well-being. And everyone, even lawyers, needs that.
Photo: Couttesy of Rio Chama
the buzz b y K E L LY K O E P K E
Another milestone to celebrate? Jambo Café’s 5th birthday! On Sunday, August 10, join chef/owner Ahmed Obo for a stylish birthday party for the community featuring drumming, music and food. The event is a way to thank Santa Feans for the loyal, enthusiastic support they’ve shown Jambo Café since the day it opened. This birthday is particularly special, as it celebrates the realization of three of Chef Obo’s dreams. Naturally, Jambo Café is the first. The second is the opening of Jambo Imports; the third is the establishment of Jambo Kids Foundation. The party will feature many of the delicious specialties that Santa Feans have come to love, plus entertainment by Agalu African Music, featuring Akeem Ayanbisi Ayanniyi and Wagogo Afrofusion from Zimbabwe. The celebration will spill out of Jambo Café, down the sidewalk and into Jambo Imports, creating a unique, unforgettable summer birthday event and sidewalk party. Visit jambocafe.net for more. Another anniversary of note, Rancho de Chimayó restaurant opened 50 years ago this year and is celebrating with its new Rancho de Chimayó Cookbook 50th Anniversary Edition, authored by Santa Fe residents and food mavens Bill and Cheryl Alters Jamison, restaurant owner Florence Jaramillo, her daughter Laura Jaramillo Ross and granddaughter Lauren Belen Jaramillo Ross. You won’t find a prettier Northern New Mexico-style restaurant anywhere, nor warmer service and delicious food. Head out to Chimayó, enjoy your meal and pick up a cookbook so you can make your favorites at home. You have probably eaten the baked goods from Angel’s, but didn’t realize it. Now with its own Water Street location, Angel’s Bakery and Cafe opened in the space of long closed Catamount Bar & Grille. Angel’s serves the early morning and
afternoon crowd seeking baked goods, including croissants, pies and cakes, coffee from local Aroma Coffee, and some entrees. Angel’s is a family affair: Javier Medrano, mother Martha Dominguez, father Jorge Perez and grandmother Alicia Quezada all renovated the space in cheery yellow. The cafe opens at 7 a.m.
Locals familiar with Rulan Tangen and her Dancing Earth troupe will rejoice at the group’s 10th anniversary celebration in August. Held at venues around Santa Fe, including the One World Beat Festival at Camel Rock Casino, the Poeh Cultural Center, the Railyard, La Fonda Hotel, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, and the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, the week-long party culminates on August 24 at Santa Fe’s newest venue, Skylight Music Hall, 139 West San Francisco. This special performance will be followed by celebratory dance party with DJ Sol, guest DJs, and dancing all night long. As dancers, musicians and aerialists, the indigenous artists of Dancing Earth gather under the leadership of acclaimed choreographer Rulan Tangen to share their collaborative journey of exploration of origins, ancestors and spirit. Visit dancingearth.org for details.
Upcoming Special Dinners & Events
Santa Fe Botanical Garden is all about the flora, and now invites painters to enjoy the garden on August 3 with plein air alfresco, open to artists of every level. Set up anywhere you wish and enjoy light refreshments. Then mark your calendars for Harvest Dinners on September 13. These intimate gatherings with friends allow participants to dine at various sensational private homes and gardens throughout Santa Fe—spectacular meals prepared with locally grown ingredients (in some cases grown by dinner hosts) and, of course, gorgeous gardens. Guests will be randomly Also in August, Juan Siddi Flamenco Santa assigned to one dinner location, and space is Fe joins forces with Spanish tapas restaurants limited. Visit santafebotanicalgarden.org for La Boca and La Taberna. The dance group, more on both events. recipient of the Santa Fe Mayor’s Award and rave reviews from international press, brings Want an authentic Santa Fe experience of the thrill of flamenco to town. Enjoy a prebeing in a vineyard garden patio watching theater, prix fixe multi-course dinner at La a chef from Santa Fe School of Cooking Boca or La Taberna and your ticket stub earns prepare a delicious meal using a wood-fired you a complimentary glass of sangria. oven and wood-fired grill? Then Estrella Del Norte’s August 16 event is for you. The The Bavarian Lodge and Ski Resort and the class starts 10 a.m. and you’ll learn about Taos Solar Music Festival (taking a break this New Mexico’s wine history and enjoy a year) have joined forces to present an intimate lunch paired with award-winning Estrella evening with musician William Topley at farm Del Norte Vineyard wines. Sign up at to mountain to table event August 24. Topley’s santafeschoolofcooking.com. music will be teamed with a fresh and local farm to table dinner. Dance abounds in Santa Fe this summer. First is an August 13 world premiere, Film and art lovers, head to the Helen presented by Performance Santa Fe, Hardin Media Gallery at the Museum featuring Stars of American Ballet. With of Contemporary Native Arts for the principals and soloists from New York documentary “Bert and Weiwei: TIME 2014” City Ballet, and often other ballets such as by Daniel Hyde and Blackhorse Lowe, which Boston Ballet and San Francisco Ballet, explores the making of “Pull of the Moon,” Stars of American Ballet performs with a site-specific land art project collaboration “artistry and athleticism.” These dancers between internationally acclaimed Chinese are young and spirited and bring as much dissident artist Ai Weiwei and Navajo artist exuberance to classics like “Swan Lake,” Bert Benally at Coyote Canyon on the Navajo choreographed by George Balanchine, Nation. The film and accompanying exhibition as they do to new pieces like this world runs through October 16. A 3D modeling premiere danced by Daniel Ulbricht digital landscape has also been created by with music by Rodrigo y Gabriela, xRez Studio Inc. and can be viewed in either choreographed by Justin Allen. On 2D or 3D formats. Ai Weiwei and Benally August 14, see the dancers in a different constructed earth-based drawings using sand. performance, both at the Lensic. Visit The concept, said Benally in the press release, performancesantafe.org. is “based on Navajo aesthetics, the idea that for the Navajo, art is more about the process rather than the finished product.” Visit iaia.edu/ museum for more.
Please join us for these very special events. Seating and spaces are limited. Please RSVP by emailing reserve@farmandtablenm.com
MOVABLE FEAST: A month-long celebration of local cuisine
As founders of New Mexico’s Moveable Feast, Farm & Table is proud to partner with Edible Santa Fe and restaurants across the state in celebration of local food! See ediblesantafe.com/feast/ for a list of restaurants and events.
Prix fixe Thursday Dinner August 7-28: 4 Courses $39 Prix fixe Saturday Brunch August 10-31: 3 Courses $22
Farmers’ Picnic: Celebrating Those Who Grow Our Food
Friends & farmers, please join us on the farm for a casual family-style picnic in celebration of local farmers, ranchers, growers, and food artisans. The evening will feature live music, and local beer & wine, and farm games!
August 19 | $45 | 6:30 Farm-friendly attire
Paella on the Patio: Guest Chef James Campbell Caruso You are invited to a multi-course Spanish dinner on the patio paired with Spanish wine complemented by Spanish guitar and flamenco.
September 16 | $75 6:30 Mingle | 7:15 Dinner
See our website for a full list of events and special dinners.
Photo: Paulo T. Photography
TAOS
| Rulan Tangen
Kudos to Lambert’s of Taos. The upscale Taos restaurant has won its very first Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for its extensive wine list with a global perspective. The award cites Lambert’s moderate pricing and focus on California, France, Spain and Argentina. Lambert’s wine director Molly Steinbach has created a delicious inventory that pairs with Chef Ky Quintanilla’s innovated approach to food. Consistently voted best restaurant, wait staff and ambience in Taos, Lambert’s continues to excel. The Bavarian wraps its Sunday sustainable dinner season with this British musician and Solar Festival favorite. For information, visit thebavarian.com.
8917 4th St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
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decade and is a recognized expert in the field. (The term derives from the accounting ledgers that were a common source of paper for Plains Indians in the late 19th century.) Her work is known for rich colors, humor and whimsy, and for bringing a feminine touch to ledger art, historically a male-dominated art form. A resident of Santa Fe, Purdy has won numerous awards and is featured in the book “Woman and Ledger Art.” Go to morningstargallery.com for more.
ALBUQUERQUE Albuquerque Photographers’ Gallery hosts the first New Mexico exhibit of the Holocaust photographs of Karl Koenig, author of “Fragments: Architecture of the Holocaust, An Artist’s Journey Through the Camps.” Twenty years ago, this worldrenowned photographer began a ten-year project of photographing the ruins of ten concentration camps. He invented a print making process, gumoil printing, and applied it to his Holocaust images, creating powerful, evocative works of art. These photographs have been shown in museums and galleries all over the world and are now coming home to Albuquerque. The exhibit will run August 16 through September 30. More info at abqphotographersgallery.com.
“Potholes” by Dolores Purdy
Photo via abqphotographersgallery.co
Eric G. Thompson’s subject matter is as simple and elegant as a haiku, but look closer and the self-taught artist’s subtle details come into focus. In his upcoming show The Boundless Moment: New Paintings by Eric G. Thompson, the contemporary realist’s intricately structured paintings will hang alongside carefully plotted words by Robert Frost and other great American poets. The exhibition runs August 15 through August 28 at Matthews Gallery. Call 505.992.2882 for times and details of the artist reception.
Photo via abq24.com
Only have 24 hours in Albuquerque? Make it 24 Hours of Art, August 15 and 16. For this 24-hour festival, events will be held at venues throughout Albuquerque, culminating in a party at the Railyards on August 16. Sponsored by Humbird, Tractor Brewing Company, Pyragraph, and A Good Sign, 24 Hours of Art brings together a broad range of mediums. Photographers, musicians, poets, painters, craftspeople, designers, dancers and others will mingle with patrons as they absorb and enjoy this imaginative gathering. Tickets at abq24.com.
Travis Bruce Black at 24 Hours of Art
Photo via harwoodmuseum.org
Congrats to Julia Mandeville, the new chief programs officer at the Harwood Art Center. Mandeville’s been working closely with the organization as director of programs and community relations to expand and nurture Harwood’s programs for the last two years, building on her previous work with Creative Albuquerque, where she was associate director. She’s well known as an organizer, collaborator and instigator of positive change, with over a dozen years of professional experience in the arts and humanities. She is co-founder and co-chair of Emerge ABQ, a chapter of the Americans for the Arts’ Emerging Leaders Network, and co-founder of Catalyst Club, a nonprofit dedicated to pursuing alternative philanthropic models. Visit harwoodartcenter.org
Bill Gersh at the Harwood Art Center
SANTA FE Morning Star Gallery, 513 Canyon Road, presents new works on paper by Dolores Purdy August 22 through 24. Purdy is an accomplished watercolorist who has worked in the discipline of ledger art—Plains Indian narrative drawing or painting—for over a
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Been to SITE Santa Fe’s new biennial exhibition SITElines? Up through January, SITElines signifies a radical rethinking of SITE’s signature biennial exhibition. It is a transformation signaling a C commitment to expanded public M programming and a dedication to Y new and underCM recognized art. The curatorial team developed an MY exhibition that looks CY to the urgencies, political conditions CMY and historical “Offshore” by Minerva Cuevas narratives that K inform the work of contemporary artists across the Americas from Nunavut to Tierra del Fuego. More at sitesantafe.org.
Photo via sitesantafe.org
“Extreme Symmetry” by Karl Koenig
From classical music to lectures, hands-on activities to the always-popular Palace Portal Artisans’ Celebration, August promises fun for all ages at the New Mexico History Museum. In conjunction with its featured exhibition, Painting the Divine: Images of Mary in the New World, the museum has two special events of note in August. On August 1, join curator Josef Díaz for a gallery walk to learn how colonial artists used European prints as models for their artworks and on August 3, hear Schola Cantorum Santa Fe as they perform “Echoes of Mary,” seldom-heard sacred music from Mexico City, Cuba and Northern New Mexico
TAOS Summer in Taos magical, and the museums of Taos exemplify why New Mexico is the Land of Enchantment. Start with the Taos Art Museum at Fechin House. Through September 21, it’s Intimate and International: The Art of Nicolai Fechin. For an internationally renowned artist, Fechin was an extremely private, retiring man. See his unique artworks, set in the historic house that Fechin himself designed and ornamented. Visit taosartmuseum.org. The quirky Millicent Rogers Museum features Fred Harvey and the Making of the American West through January. Fred Harvey and the Fred Harvey Company in many ways created the images that most Americans have of the American West. Through postcards, books, jewelry and more, the name Fred Harvey became synonymous with all things west of Kansas! This unique exhibit featuring items borrowed from the family of Fred Harvey will tell the story of the company that made the West. Worth the trip to Taos, millicentrogers.org.
magazine.com
New Mexico Art League
FA L L S C H E D U L E O F C L A S S E S A N D W O R K S H O P S
MONDAYS
WEDNESDAYS (cont.)
FRIDAYS
DEMONSTRATIONS
Composing the Landscape in Oils with Tom Blazier September 8 – October 27 9 AM to 12 Noon
Painting the Still Life from Life in Oils with MJ Manford September 10 – October 29 1 PM to 4 PM
Open Life Drawing Session No Instruction / Ongoing class 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM
Drawing the Figure from Life with Chris Bratton August 17, Sunday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM
Drawing from Nature: Botanicals with Pastel with Vasili Katakis September 8 – October 27 1 PM to 4 PM
Painting the Landscape in Oils with Waid Griffin September 10 – October 29 1 PM to 4 PM
Anatomy of the Portrait in Oils with MJ Manford September 8 – October 27 1 PM to 4 PM
Open Life Drawing Session No Instruction / Ongoing class 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM
Mastering the Dutch Interior with Wade Griffin September 12 – October 31 1 PM to 4 PM
THURSDAYS
SATURDAYS
TUESDAYS
Painting the Landscape in Oils en Plein Air with Tom Blazier September 11 – October 30 8:30 AM to 11:30 AM
Building a Portfolio for Teens with Iva Morris September 13 – November 1 9 AM to 12 Noon
The Mystery of Painting in Watercolor: Beginning to Advanced with Carol Carpenter September 9 – October 28 9:30 AM to 12 Noon Imagination Art Group for Children with Marian Berg Ongoing class 1:30 PM to 3 PM and 4 PM to 5:30 PM Painting the Essence of a Flower in Oils with Cynthia Rowland September 9 - October 28 1 PM to 4 PM The Portrait in Oils Selection and Intention with Cynthia Rowland September 9 - October 28 5 PM to 8 PM WEDNESDAYS Introduction to Drawing and Painting with Maria Cole September 10 – October 29 9 AM to 12 Noon
Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain: Part Two with Lea Anderson September 11 – October 30 9 AM to 12 Noon The Mystery of Painting in Watercolor: Beginning to Advanced with Carol Carpenter September 11 – October 30 1 PM to 3:30 PM Finding the Abstract Landscape in Mixed Media with Marta Light September 11 – October 30 1 PM to 4 PM Drawing & Painting from the Beginning with Dry & Watermedia with Chris Bratton September 11 – October 30 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM
Painting the Land of Enchantment in Watercolor with David Chavez September 6 – November 1 9 AM to 12 Noon Drawing and Painting for Children with Joan Irey Ongoing class 12:30 PM – 3:30 PM Introduction to Figure Drawing with Betty Lehnus September 6 – November 1 1 PM to 4 PM SUNDAYS Chinese Watercolor Painting with Ming Franz Ongoing class 1st and 3rd Sunday of each month 1 PM to 4 PM
The Landscape in Oils with Waid Griffin September 21, Sunday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM The Portraiture in Charcoal with Teresa Oaxaca October 2, Thursday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM WORKSHOPS The Art of the Charcoal Portrait with Teresa Oaxaca October 4 – 5 Saturday and Sunday 10 AM to 4 PM Painting Autumn in New Mexico on Location with Waid Griffin October 18 – 19 Saturday and Sunday 9 AM to 4 PM EXHIBITS New Works by New Mexico Art League Faculty July 30 – September 27 Tuesday through Saturday 10 AM to 4 PM Artist’s Reception, August 2 5 PM to 7:30 PM Face the Music A Figure and Portrait Exhibit October 7 – October 31 Tuesday through Saturday 10 AM to 4 PM Artist’s Reception, October 11 5 PM to 8:30 PM
Open Life Drawing Session No Instruction / Ongoing class 1 PM to 4 PM
For registration and more detailed information visit newmexicoartleague.org All classes are held at 3409 Juan Tabo NE Albuquerque, NM (505) 293-5034 Gallery hours: 10 AM to 4 PM Tuesday – Saturday
all Schedule of Classes and Workshops at the New Mexico Art League
ondays
Painting the Landscape in Pastels in the Studio and on Location with Iva Morris September 12 – November 7 9 AM to 12 Noon
WANTED FOODIES
Join us at Galisteo Bistro and see for yourself why foodies are raving! Now Serving Lunch: Wednesday–Saturday, 11am–2pm Dinner: Wednesday–Sunday, 5–9:30pm Reservations Highly Recommended: 505-982-3700 • OpenTable.com • GalisteoBistro.com
227 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, NM
REWARD
Free Dessert with Entrée
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Portrait of An Artist
Roxanne Swentzell story by GAIL SNYDER
|
photos by KITTY LEAKEN
W
hen she was little, exploring among old ruins, Roxanne Swentzell remembers occasionally finding turquoise beads. She describes holding them up to squint through each tiny hole: “I was looking into the past.” These memories were so alive to her that, many years later, as a Native artist of great renown, she commemorated them by creating a large clay sculpture of a woman gazing into the past through the hole in her own turquoise bead. “We’re walking right alongside it,” Roxanne says of the past. “We’ve always walked side by side.” Sitting outside Roxanne’s living room window, the sculpture is a reminder; she holds this sense of simultaneity between her thumb and her forefinger. From an acclaimed family of potters and sculptors whose Santa Clara Pueblo roots span all the way back to the days before contact with Europeans, Roxanne grew up with the code of sustainability the Pueblo people had always lived by. Back in the early ’80s, when Roxanne found herself, at 23, “homeless, living in a tent—an army tent—with two babies,” she admits feeling desperation. “So in between when my kids were napping, I spent a whole year mixing mud and laying adobes. When I needed help lifting a beam or a viga into place, my family was there.” As she worked on her passive solar house, she paid for it by selling the first of her now famously engaging clay sculptures of Pueblo people, created in an adjacent plywood shack. Today, Roxanne says, “I am the house in the trees.” And it’s true—you can’t miss the house, it rises up out of the arid, mostly barren landscape, a welcoming oasis of green and shade, healthy garden beds, ponds, turkeys, beehives and, beneath your feet, a rich loamy soil. Soon after the house’s completion, she met the man who would become her husband, Joel Glanzburg, who’d recently learned the basics of permaculture. She was already primed for all the possibilities this new concept offered. “I saw that the research could work in this high desert climate,” she says. In 1987, Roxanne, Joel and their friend Brett Bakker created Flowering
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Tree Permaculture Institute, a non-profit organization based out of her home, where they began teaching and sharing sustainable practices for living in this arid environment. “I’ve never been sure what Flowering Tree would become and I still don’t know,” Roxanne says. “It’s an evolution of cultural preservation. This has Pueblo roots. We’re planting seeds within ourselves and outside.” In permaculture terms, instead of fixing something, you ask: What’s missing? And the answer, in this case, turns out to be nothing less than a cultural revolution. Appropriately enough, it grew out of Flowering Tree’s seed bank project. “We asked ourselves, ‘What grew here? How was it grown, how was it used, how was it taken care of?’ We weren’t trying to do this as a museum,” says Roxanne. “Then it’s not out in the world, living its life.” As they became aware of how many of these indigenous plants weren’t used any longer, they realized it was because “we just go to Walmart. We buy fast food. We also learned that the plants that have survived have done so because they’ve adapted to this soil, this air, this sunlight. It takes time for a plant to change to fit a place.” A year or so ago, Roxanne read in an article—“Don’t ask me where,” she laughs, “I don’t remember!”— that humans also adapt to place, and that this adaptation takes our genetic code twenty generations to complete. People who remain in the same place as their ancestors for that length of time—roughly 600 years—are now better physically equipped to survive there, too, much like the plants that have mutated to survive. Until well into the 20th century, their descendants grew corn, squash and beans while also consuming those plants, animals and birds indigenous to northern New Mexico. But mitigating circumstances—the new railroad system, World War II, enforced boarding schools for Native children—caused a far-reaching lifestyle upheaval that affected their diet. “We have health issues like crazy in the Pueblo,” Roxanne says. So, in the spirit of permaculture’s emphasis on noting of nature’s patterns and asking what’s missing, Roxanne decided to see what would happen if instead of consuming genetically modified foods and other chemical-laden, corn-syrup enhanced fast foods and sodas, they changed their diet back. “I got 14 volunteers, ages 6 to 65, all with different health conditions, including obesity, diabetes, lupus, autoimmune problems, heart disease, high cholesterol and depression,” says Roxanne. “We were very scientific—everybody had blood tests and physicals, we got weighed. And we went cold turkey. Now we were going to eat only what our pre-contact Pueblo ancestors ate.” Until this project, laughs Jonathan Loretto, one of the volunteers, “I always thought that the Pueblo diet was—what?—fry bread, red and green chile.” Chastity Sandoval-Swentzell says that, after the initial blood
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tests, “I found out I was pre-diabetic, and I’m only 31. I have three children and I want to be here for them. It was kind of scary for me.” So she was game for this new-old diet. What was the diet? “Whatever was here,” says Roxanne. “All the indigenous plants. Deer, elk, rabbit, squirrel, buffalo, turkeys, ducks. Fish. Different cactuses, berries, roots, wild fruits and cultivated stuff they grew, mostly corn, squash and beans. It wasn’t easy. We had to figure out where to find these. We’d go through a whole grocery store, all the aisles, and only find two things in there we could eat. We had to create a Facebook page,” she laughs, “to support each other so we wouldn’t starve! Early on, one woman called me saying she was standing in front of McDonald’s and I thought, ‘Uh oh, don’t go in!’ But she said, ‘Guess what I found! A prickly fruit that’s ripe! We can eat it!’ It was in a pot, a part of their landscaping! But we all went down and got some. We couldn’t have typical spices, no catsup, no sugar, no olive oil or salad dressing or butter. And we coveted salt. We knew our ancestors had a place where they got it. My son Porter, the historian, told us where it was. We made a pilgrimage and found it, in an old lakebed. On the way, we found ancestral sites, places people would take journeys to. It was very emotional to be reconnected to something so important, a part of who we were and still are. It felt like a ceremony.” After an astonishingly short time—three months—the results, says Roxanne, “were better than I could ever imagine.” Marian Naranjo says, “My blood test at the beginning showed I was headed for a stroke. But after the three months, my blood test was normal, I lost 50 pounds and my energy level is awesome—I’m doing things I hadn’t done in forever!” To a person, the chronic illnesses that doctors had said were incurable and that they’d just have to suffer with, says Roxanne, “were not just better—they were gone! A number of the women saved their lives by going on this diet, their illnesses? Gone!” Roxanne wants others to benefit from their discovery. “We’ve sent packets with a booklet and a video DVD documenting our experiences to as many tribes as we could,” says Roxanne. They are currently working on a cookbook of recipes they developed from scratch. “It’s so scary at first,” Roxanne acknowledges, “to be outside the dominant culture.” But sharing food sources and meals together has strengthened our community. As Marian Naranjo points out, their ancestors “kept themselves healthy with just what they had here.” Roxanne adds, “Every time we don’t buy that coke or cookie, we are winning the battle for our existence. And with this diet, we have our whole ancestral line backing us.” What Roxanne and the Flowering Tree Institute have done is expand the whole permaculture concept into brand new, literally lifesaving territory, connecting us back to something eternal—which we’d lost but still carried in our cells, that is ancestral. Because the truth is that no matter how much of our personal energy we invest in water catchment, passive solar, swales and other permaculture projects, if we don’t learn how to eat to heal our bodies, we aren’t going to survive and neither will our children. And that doesn’t just mean eating organic or gluten-free—it’s much more radical and also much simpler than that. We all came from somewhere. “Everyone has roots that they can research and find, and it does something for the soul to know where we’re from and how we’re connected to a place and a people.” The plants and people have evolved together to survive, a relationship established so long ago, Roxanne continues, that “it’s in our cells. Plants are our ancestors, too. And they’re still here. The corn mothers are taking care of us.” She describes another of her sculptures: a Pueblo clown eating corn on the cob. He’s holding the cob alongside his grinning mouth. Rows of corn kernels, rows of teeth. “He’s showing you that they are one,” laughs Roxanne. We’re at a sobering but not hopeless crossroads in human evolution, she adds. “Without humor, we won’t make it— it’ll be too sad.” The works of Roxanne Swentzell can be viewed at the Tower Gallery at 78 Cities of Gold Road in Santa Fe. 505.455.3037. roxanneswentzell.net.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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| Jed Foutz, owner of Shiprock Santa Fe
SHIPROCK I
f you ask Jed Foutz, the owner of Shiprock Santa Fe, one of our city’s most prestigious Native American art galleries, about his apparent success, he’ll tell you that he never had a plan.
“I’ve never had a ‘this is where we’re going to go’ moment,” he explains. “I never dreamed of having a gallery, never dreamed of Santa Fe.” You can’t tell by looking at the gallery. Everything appears distinctly orchestrated. The entrance on the east side of the Plaza is hardly obvious— blink and you’ll miss it. From the street, climb two flights of stairs up into the light of a sunny window, where a translucent Shiprock Santa Fe banner hangs from the ceiling. The effect is warm and inviting. In the gallery, light wood floors and white walls play beautifully with the light, and set off the incredible collection of textiles and pots, followed by displays of jewelry that will leave you speechless. The only possible incongruity lies in a small room across from the jewelry displays. A selection from Visvim, a visionary clothing line by Hiroki Nakamura, may on first blush seem out of context— until you know that Foutz has a degree in Japanese and Asian Studies. 18
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“Nakamura and I have collaborated over the past 5 to 6 years,” Foutz says. The two once drove to Montana where they helped handstitch a buffalo hide teepee. “It’s been a great collaboration and friendship. He’s a fashion designer, which fits in with my world.” That world, he explains, has been inspired by serendipity, grounded in the immediate. For this reason, it takes Foutz a moment to pinpoint exactly how long the gallery has been open. “We started Shiprock Santa Fe eight years ago,” he says, then looks up at the ceiling and smiles. “Or was it nine? I lose track of time.” Given his provenance, it’s no wonder. Foutz, who is of Mormon descent, spent his earliest years living in a small house in Shiprock, in the Navajo Nation, behind the trading post his father owned. Among the Navajo, time is a more malleable concept. “The Navajo don’t adhere to our culture’s version of time,” says Foutz. “I don’t wear a watch. When it’s light in the morning, I get up. The sense of time that we impose on the world does not make sense the same way in Navajo culture.” The legacy that Foutz carries with him reflects a similar flexibility. If you placed the generational trajectory of the Foutz family on a map, it would look like a beautiful tangle across the southwest. There would be loops and curls around Tuba City, Shiprock, Farmington, Provo and Salt Lake City, with more recent threads rushing away to New York and Japan. The patterned lineage of this Mormon family shifts back through the decades as though carried by the wind. “Members of my family were originally pioneers in Tuba City in the 1860s and ’70s,” Foutz says. Around the turn of the century, the boundaries of the Navajo Nation were expanded and the Mormon settlers lost their land. This remapping triggered an exodus and Foutz’s family returned to Utah for a time,
story by ANA JUNE photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
before venturing south again to settle in the northwest corner of New Mexico. In the early days of settlement, as the nature of the times dictated, people relied not only on others in their cultural community for what they needed, but also on their Indigenous neighbors. Trading was all by barter and grew naturally from human need, rather than calculation, by virtue of living in the middle of nowhere. “I don’t think there was any plan, really,” Foutz remarks. “They probably didn’t even know what to call it.” By the time the Foutz family moved to New Mexico, however, trading had become a formalized business. “They, along with a few others, started a company called Progressive Mercantile, which either ran or supplied 30 to 40 trading posts in the north part of the Navajo Nation,” Foutz says. “For some reason, my early memories of Shiprock are very clear to me,” Jed Foutz says almost wistfully. As he recalls his childhood in the Navajo Nation, he leans back in his chair behind the Guatemalan work bench he uses as a desk. His sunny gallery office faces west, overlooking the Plaza. Outside, tourists stroll in the mid-morning sunshine while vendors set up booths and prepare for the day. Despite the bustle below, however, and the energy from the gallery beyond his office door, where employees are preparing for an early afternoon Champagne reception in honor of the International Folk Art Market, Foutz is clearly miles, and years, away in his mind. “I almost set the place on fire!” he says suddenly, laughing. He recalls an experience when he was about 5 years old of being awoken in the night and rushed out of the house by a babysitter who was watching him and his sister while his parents were out of town. A towering haystack near the trading post—800 bales, more or less—had caught fire.
“I just remember this huge fire,” Foutz says, his gaze distant. He describes how individual bales were cast flaming into the night as the fire raged. The flames died out on their own, eventually, and fortunately didn’t spark any of the nearby buildings. Foutz quickly clarifies that he didn’t start that fire. “The hay just combusted—it was stacked wrong,” he says, then adds, “but one time my older sister and I were just playing with matches…” Next to the trading post was a little restaurant, and because it was so close the cooks would feed Foutz and his sister out the back door. One afternoon, the two were playing behind the restaurant, flicking matches into dry brush, when the brush suddenly went up in flames. “I don’t know which one of our matches did it,” Foutz says with a wide smile, “but all of a sudden it just exploded.” The volunteer fire department hurried to the scene, averting a tragedy. “Chat & Chew,” Foutz remarks, referring to the restaurant. “It’s still there!” In addition to experimenting with combustion, Foutz helped out around the trading post. “I was 6 years old, carrying groceries for customers,” he recalls. “The trading post was literally the center of the community. It had the post office, grocery store … it was a little bit of everything.” Back then, traders were too. In addition to working with the local residents, running tabs for trades and managing the business side of things, traders acted as intermediaries between the Navajo and the U.S. government, helping make sense of regulations and Native rights. To a young boy, however, very little of that mattered. “It was an ideal place to grow up,” says Foutz. “There was livestock, A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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SHIPROCK
room to roam and a trading post full of candy … I was kind of a prince of my own domain!” Foutz pauses to reflect. “I did take a lot of it for granted as I grew up, though, and when it was time to go my own way I swore I would never go back.” He tried college first and spent what he describes as a “wasted year” at BYU. Following that, he journeyed to Japan—etching his own far-flung trajectory in that scrambled design on the family map. “I served a mission for the church in Japan for two years,” he explains, “and I hadn’t really been off the reservation much until then … it was a huge thing.” It also left a huge mark. When Foutz returned two years later, he went back to BYU to major in Japanese and Asian studies. Still, his family legacy wouldn’t let him alone. “Sundance catalog was just starting and they were dear friends with my father—Dad knew Redford,” Foutz says, “and when I came back to the States the catalog wanted jewelry to sell, so I thought, well, I can do that!” Foutz promptly went back home, as it were, and connected with Navajo silversmiths. “First, Sundance wanted ten bracelets, then 50, then 100 … then 500.” Within a short period of time, however, the catalog needed even better margins. Native artists couldn’t keep up with demand. Eventually, Foutz stepped away from the deal. He also tried to sell in New York. “I had an in with Ralph Lauren,” he recalls. He thought about getting into fashion. “I didn’t do the corporate thing very well, though, and things back home were taking off.” Even without Sundance, Foutz was still very busy, and still clearly connected—irreversibly—to his roots. “I was still a college student and yet was in Albuquerque buying, in Shiprock buying,” Foutz says. He would buy as much as he could, then travel through 20
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national parks up north, selling out of his van as well as to galleries and museums. “I don’t know if I’ve ever had so much liquid money in my whole life,” he says. “It was good for the artists and their families, and it was good for me.” After Foutz completed college, his father decided he was ready to sell the trading post. The deal he was trying to make, however, fell through. “I said I’d never return,” Foutz says, “but when I was 25 or 26 I did … and I bought my father out.” A few years later, Foutz bought two more trading posts—Red Valley and Shonto. The torch, by then, was officially passed. Foutz has since sold each location. “The culture changed so much that my job, my role … what I could be for the artists evolved and changed with the internet,” he says. “I didn’t want to give up but the writing was on the wall before I walked away.” When he finally did, Santa Fe called. “I used to supply a lot of people in town,” he says. “Packards, the museum shops…and the deal was, when I opened Shiprock Santa Fe, that I would still supply as I always had and wouldn’t compete.” This is the reason Foutz focuses on historic pieces, and less on the contemporary. “I was never a retailer!” He exclaims, adding that his passion has been driven by the generational energy of his family, and his own love for the people he works with. “I love supporting artists on a grassroots level—it’s a personal commitment,” he says. “I’ve never been driven by financial gain, nor am I a wealthy man. I just do what I love, everyday.” Each of Foutz’s old trading posts are still open, but the original Shiprock location, where he first placed his wandering feet on the ground, is now a dollar store. “It’s hard to go through Shiprock if you’ve known it as one thing,” he says. “I almost have to take out the home part and think only of the people I want to see, the people I miss.” He shakes his head. “I have thousands of stories.” It’s clear that given enough time and space, they could fall like rain. It’s also clear that they continue to drive the work that he does—in the town where he never dreamed he’d live, in the gallery he never dreamed he’d own. “I’m so blessed,” he says. “In truth, I don’t even have a thought about how to be happy. I just know what I love, and somehow in our weird world … it’s worked.” You can visit Shiprock Gallery at 53 Old Santa Fe Trail in the heart of the Plaza. 505,982.8478. shiprocksantafe.com.
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Patio Seating • Happy Hour Specials One block from Santa Fe Plaza in Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe 125 Washington • 505.988.4900 • www.HotelChimayo.com
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You’re Invited
to the new Lavender Tea House Tuesday through Saturday • 10am to 2:30pm Scones • Chocolates • Gelatos Lavender Tea • Coffee • Daily Specials
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© photo: Kitty Leaken from “Cooking with Johnny Vee”
© photography: Kitty Leaken from “Cooking with Johnny Vee”
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Full Bloom Boutique 3J Workshop Biya Johnny Was
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A New Voice
AuGUST
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| Tailinh Agoyo, John Torres Nez and Paula Rivera
anta Fe comes alive during the summertime months like it does at no other time of the year. With the International Folk Art Market, Spanish Market, Indian Market and Fiesta—not to mention the beauty of this high desert terrain—the town pulses and glows with the vibrant energies of the people and cultures that define our region.
Photo: Abby Lewis
This year a new player, the Indigenous Fine Art Market, enters the scene during Indian Market week with events from August 21 to 23 at the Santa Fe Railyard. We couldn’t be more thrilled to see another market bring its diversity of talent, excitement and creativity to the visitors and locals of Santa Fe. The Indigenous Fine Art Market represents the vision of three talented individuals. John Torres Nez (Navajo), Ph.D—former COO of the Southwest Association of Indian Arts and founder and current IFAM president. Tailinh Agoyo (Narragansett/Blackfeet), who is the IFAM director of marketing and creative services, and Paula Rivera (Taos Pueblo), IFAM director of program operations, who joined John soon after he formed IFAM. This month, we spoke to Tailinh and John about the new market, the individuals behind it and the challenges of forging a Santa Fe tradition. Local Flavor: How did the name Indigenous Fine Art Market come to be? I’m particularly struck by IFAM—the “I” at the beginning makes me think of the “I” trend—iMac, iPhone, iPad—and “FAM” brings to mind family. What was the vision behind the IFAM marketing campaign? John Torres Nez: Yes, it’s all of those things. I’m a bit of an Apple-phile and Jobs was a great visionary—but it was also a group effort. When we had our first meeting with about three dozen artists in Gallup, New Mexico, we first discussed what a new show would look like. Then we asked ourselves, “What should we call it?” The discussion was all about Native communities, our families and ownership. They wanted to feel that the new show was theirs. And it was not about “Indian art” and “commodification” of our culture, it was about us wanting to share our culture through our cultural-inspired fine art. And it was about Indigenous People everywhere, not just North America. It was about our brothers and sisters in Canada and Hawaii and, eventually, Indigenous fine artists from around the world. So we settled on “Indigenous” and Fine Art” and about how this came about through a grassroots “movement.” You put it all together and you get IFAM and our first effort is the Indigenous Fine Art Market.
a.
LF: How many artists do you expect this year? Are there any particular artists who you’re especially excited to feature? Tailinh Agoyo: We expect 300-plus artists from all over the US and Canada. We are thrilled by the diversity of tribes that will be represented. IFAM will represent established artists as well as emerging artists. We’re excited that artists Bob Haozous, Kevin Red Star, Darryl Dean Begay, 24
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b.
Indigenous Fine Art
story by MIA CARBONE photos courtesy of the artists
Melissa Cody, Tchin, Jake Livingston, Diego Romero, Heidi Brandow and Natasha Smoke Santiago will be participating. But to be honest, it’s hard to call out any one or group of artists. We are excited by everyone on the list! We are overwhelmed by the quality of work and phenomenal creativity that will be a part of IFAM. Every booth will feature something new and exciting for the visitor to experience. IFAM artists are welcome to bring work of any medium to their booth. They did not apply specifically as potters or jewelers or painters, they applied as artists and they will be bringing a variety of work to represent who they are as artists. LF: With so many thousands of people coming to town for SWAIA’s Indian Market, it’s wonderful to see a diversity of options for visitors to explore. What are some of IFAM’s special features? Not-to-be-missed aspects? TA: Legendary painter Kevin Red Star and emerging artist George Alexander have teamed up to be our merchandise designers this year. The project is called Red Star. Rising Star. They will be doing a live paint event on Thursday, August 21, at 11 a.m., accompanied by DJ Brian Frejo. We’ll be streaming the event live on webcam. Kevin’s painting will be raffled off on Saturday, August 23. Raffle tickets are $20 and are now available. We have a kickoff party at the Den on August 20 at 9 p.m. to celebrate IFAM. There will be music and dancing and celebration. Food trucks and vendors will be selling great food throughout the show. Music and dance is a large component of IFAM. There will be traditional cultural music and dance performances during the day and Indigenous reggae, hip hop and soul on the stage in the evening. To note, Cempoalli 20 will be performing on Thursday evening and Brian Frejo will be producing a concert for Friday evening that will have a lineup of several music acts. LF: For those coming to Indian Market who might not yet know about IFAM, what’s going to be noticeably different from SWAIA’s event?
d.
c.
| Artists: a.Cara Romero, b.Kristen Dorsey, c.Farrell Cockrum, d.Kelly Byars, e.Zoe Urness.
TA: Contemporary music, dancing, installation art and artists from many different tribes and regions that have never shown at Indian Market. Artists that are known as painters bringing sculpture or jewelers bringing their paintings, author literary booths, and youth programs that include spoken word, skateboarding, music concerts and an art show. IFAM is very much a celebration of Native arts and the cultures that inspire it. It will reflect how Native people have evolved and exist today.
e.
LF: The Railyard’s been host to some great events over the past few years. What are your thoughts on the location? What are some of the positives of being there? TA: The Railyard is such a wonderful community space. I take my kids there all the time. The park is beautiful and the events are fantastic. The fact that the surrounding area has restaurants and contemporary art galleries is a huge plus. We are thrilled to be able to have IFAM at the Railyard. The modern architecture look and feel is a perfect fit for IFAM. Being closer to south side hotels and businesses makes the location ideal as well. The Rail Runner stops right at the event. Santa Fe and Albuquerque visitors can come without having to deal with traffic or parking. It’s a beautiful space and it will make for a beautiful day out, but the real beauty is that the Railyard represents community. As the producers of IFAM, it is important for us to share Native art, music and food with our Santa Fe community. LF: Do you have any feeling of what might make IFAM a staple Santa Fe tradition? TA: We have received overwhelming support and response not just from artists but from the community of Santa Fe. So many people around town have said, “It’s time,” and “You’re that cool market.” It’s clear there is excitement for a fresh, progressive, community oriented event in August. We do have plans to take IFAM global as well—IFAM Toyko and IFAM Paris are on the horizon.
+ Missed last month’s favorite? Visit localflavormagazine.com to catch up on your reading. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A new senior lifestyle is coming to Rio Rancho with apartment styles and amenities not offered in other area communities. The Neighborhood is scheduled to open in 2015, giving you time to consider how beautiful your future can be. But you must act now. A new information center is now open at 4500 Arrowhead Ridge Drive SE in Rio Rancho (one block west of the intersection of Highway 528 on Ridgecrest Drive SE). Reservations are now being taken for when the apartments become available for occupancy.
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Cycles of Life The Vision Quest of Jake Foreman stor y by EMILY BEENEN
photos courtesy of Jake Foreman
| Jake Foreman
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here are few events in a person’s life that create upheava–like the death of a parent. All is called into question, no emotional stone left unturned. In 2010, nine months after the passing of his father, Jake Foreman had a dream. In this dream, he was riding his bicycle through the desert, surrounded by red rocks and accompanied by Native youth of all tribes. Jake, who identifies as Absentee Shawnee, Filipino and ScotchIrish, understood this dream to be about healing; about his own healing in this time of heartbreak and also about the healing of many generations of Native people affected by hundreds of years of historical trauma. Certain elements of this trauma run through his own blood. Jake’s father, Henry Foreman, Jr., died at age 52 of cirrhosis of the liver and his father’s father also died of alcohol-related causes, at age 52— without ever knowing each other.
This dream, or vision quest as Jake came to call it, initially took him on a journey throughout the world: to Hawaii and the Amazon rain forests, from Guatemala to Mexico and to the mountain tops of Machu Picchu. During these travels, definitive themes emerged, most notably the resilience of Indigenous peoples throughout the world and the inherent connectedness of art, science and spirituality. Each place informed his transformation and created wellsprings of healing. From death, Jake began to realize the “art of living” and started to see himself in the role he calls “socio-environmental artist.” Though the importance of these travels cannot be underestimated, it was really the journey within that took him “to a place of awareness and wholeness that healed and transformed my suffering into love,” as he puts it. This transformation, he states, “is like a circle because it has no beginning or end … I know my conscious commitment to embody health and happiness.” And thus, three summers ago, a youth program called Cycles of Life was born in an effort to share this commitment and understanding with other Native students. Jake had recently graduated from the University of New Mexico with an undergraduate degree in civic engagement and nonprofit management. “I’ve always been interested in working with youth and creating programs—that was my specialty,” he explains. “I worked primarily with projects that addressed hunger throughout New Mexico, especially rural New Mexico. I got to travel with [UNM’s] Office for Community Health to learn more about ways you can engage people to have conversations about hunger, but more importantly, how to really address it.” Jake is currently pursuing a master’s in community and regional planning at UNM with a focus on Indigenous communities and the local food movement. Cycles of Life is a space that “supports, encourages and strengthens youth to realize their innate potential as compassionate leaders for the 21st century through exploring ways of learning and living that mimic natural renewable systems.” So what does that mean? Students in this summer program learn to garden; they learn to build their own bicycles from donated and discarded bike parts; they learn how riding your bicycle and growing your own food are simple, sustainable ways to take care of yourself, your community and the earth. Art supports, informs and feeds their creative spirits: Bob Marley sings as students design and build their bikes; they learn the art of stenciling, design T-shirts and screen print them to commemorate their rides; they create mandalas (spiritual and ritual symbols in Hinduism and Buddhism, representing the universe); paint graffiti-style murals in unexpected places desperate for beauty and color. They learn principles of Indigenous science, Indigenous planning and design, Indigenous health literacy—all through a critical, analytical lens. “What’s really important to work on with the kids is addressing this idea of epistemology, how we come to know what we know and to really be critical thinkers, beyond what we’re usually taught about critical thinking,” he says. “What I mean is that usually when we read a published scholarly article, we think ‘this is scientific, and this author is objective,’ but in Indigenous understanding, there’s no such thing as objectivity, or it’s relative, so you have to take in the person’s race, culture, privilege, context and history to truly understand what you’re reading and where you’re getting your information from.” Even more importantly, students need to understand their own history and context. “In talking about Indigenous ways of knowing, for me, to call myself truly Indigenous, not only do I have that heritage,” he says, “but I was born and raised in Albuquerque, I understand and know my context, I know my community, I know the city and I am constantly seeking out people who have information and knowledge.” The importance of understanding your indigeneity came to Jake as an inspiration from UNM professor and mentor Ted Jojola, (who is spearheading the movement for Indigenous planning and design). “What [Professor Jojola] talked about was the need for increased internal capacity within the tribes, meaning that as a planner you can’t just come in and expect to change things overnight,” Jake says. “You have to work on the increased internal capacity because if you’re going to be a planner at a certain Pueblo, you’re going to be a lot more effective and successful if you’re a member of the tribe, because you understand the cultural protocols, you understand the people, and you have a deep connection to the place.”
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Cycles of Life The Cycles of Life inaugural journey took place in July of 2011, when ten pairs of wheels—Jake, his sister Lisa and eight high school students from the Native American Community Academy (NACA)—covered 200 miles along the Trail of the Ancients, a 12-day journey from Zuni Pueblo to Taos Pueblo. This summer, Jake is teaching a course in Indigenous science and has another bike trip planned as a culminating performance task; students will ride out to San Felipe Pueblo and teach what they’ve learned about Native science to the youth and community there. Cycles of Life is ever-evolving. “I just had a student from NACA over here [at One World Rug Care the current home for Cycles of Life] printing shirts yesterday and he’s been working with me for over a year, and I’ve seen such a huge growth from last year to this year,” Jake shares proudly. “He’s learning real practical skills. The kids have told me, they want to learn—this whole economic inequity is a real issue. If I’m going to be working with Native students, I’m going to have to address it. Because they don’t have the privilege to just do a fun summer program—they need a job.” So in this way, the program has become a youth enterprise that teaches practical skills as well as encouraging innovation in the way that its participants think and articulate themselves. “The ultimate goal of my scholarship is about diffusion of innovation,” Jake imparts. In many academic settings, the focus is research— gathering and creating new ideas, new information. But Jake has come to realize the task of the 21st century is not to generate new knowledge, but to diffuse innovative ideas that already exist. Many of these innovative solutions to our current issues are old, Indigenous teachings—what Jake refers to as “tribal knowledge.” Modern researchers and scientists who develop concepts like sustainability and biomimicry, or work in fields like quantum physics on the leading edge of Western science, have long neglected to give credit to Indigenous people who have been talking about many of these “innovative” concepts since pre-contact (with Europeans). Indigenous teachings have long connected the arts, science and spirituality. Jake isn’t being exclusive, quite the opposite. “It’s not to say Indigenous knowledge systems and beliefs are the ‘most right’ or ‘the perfect way,’ but they’re complementary, especially to science. Because [Western] science can explain the phenomena, it can say how it is, but it doesn’t really say why. The purpose, the reasoning or the ‘so what?’ part of it. So what does that mean in terms of moral understanding and values? And that’s what Indigenous science does with this fundamental concept: if everything is connected, then we must value all forms of life, as we do ourselves.” Jake acknowledges struggles ahead. His ideas are not always received well and often people see what he’s doing as “new age” or “hippie” but “when it comes down to the Cycles of Life,” he emphasizes, “you choose life, or you don’t choose life. I’m choosing life and it’s as simple as that.” More information about Cycles of Life can be found at facebook.com/CyclesofLife or youtube.com/watch?v=6329W-TQNVs or by contacting Jake Foreman at hforeman@unm.edu.
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or wine lovers, life is good. There is more high quality wine available from more regions in more countries than ever before. Move over France: these days one can find world-class wines in California, South America, New Zealand, Australia and many other countries. All these choices also mean that deciding which bottle to drink can get a little sticky, especially in a restaurant setting. Wine lists come in all different sizes, styles and formats and there are as many types of lists as there are restaurants. For some, interpreting a wine list can be like trying to read a foreign language. How can you know which wine will be the right fit?
How Wine Lists are Organized: Grape v. Place
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Reading, understanding and ultimately choosing a bottle of wine from a restaurant list can be a great experience if you understand a few basics. The first thing to consider is format. Most lists are divided into categories based on either grape varietal or place. A list organized by grape might have categories like “Classic Whites” (Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio) and “Alternative Whites” (lesser-known grapes like Chenin Blanc and Gewürztraminer). Or a list may be organized by place, with no mention of a specific grape. Sections are labeled by country (France or Spain) and subdivided into regions within those countries (Bordeaux and Rioja). I find that much of the confusion with wine lists comes from this mix of grape varietals and regions, which can be hard to distinguish. An important thing to know is that wines from the New World (the U.S., Australia, New Zealand, South America and South Africa) are usually labeled by the grape variety, while wines from the Old World (Europe) are most often labeled by region. When ordering wine from the Old World, you won’t know what grape is in the bottle unless you’re familiar with that particular region’s wine laws, which stipulate which grapes are allowed. Talk about confusing! As a result, restaurant wine lists name grape varietals for some wines but not others. For example, Chardonnay from California will be labeled as such, but the same grape produced in France will only be labeled by its village (like Chablis or Meursault). Understanding this basic conflict will untangle part of the wine list knot. I took a look at several wine lists in Santa Fe and Albuquerque to see what kind of styles and formats exist in our area. Each style of list calls for a slightly different approach, but that’s what ordering wine is all about—what you drink will always be tied to budget, occasion, company and circumstance.
The Long List La Casa Sena’s wine list is a sommelier’s dream and a neophyte’s nightmare. Unless you want to stick to the by-the-glass section, you’re going to have to cruise through nearly 60 pages categorized by place in the search for a bottle. Depending on who you’re dining with, you may only have a few minutes to look at the list before it’s time to pick a bottle and get back to the dinner conversation. A list this massive carries its own table of contents. The best approach is to decide what style of wine you want to drink and focus in from there. For example, if everyone at the table wants to have red wine, you could choose one grape (say Cabernet Sauvignon) and search it out on the list. Flip to Napa or Bordeaux and your choices have just narrowed to a few pages. You’ve taken a herculean task and transformed it into something manageable. Another approach is ordering a couple of different half bottles. La Casa Sena has a wonderful selection of small format bottles, which at two pages is very user friendly. If you’re still unsure, now is the perfect time to ask for help. For a small city, Santa Fe has many certified sommeliers and even more people who’ve taken an introductory sommelier course. With a bit of focus and a little help from the staff, a long list like La Casa Sena’s presents an opportunity to try some fantastic bottles and can be a lot of fun.
The Streamlined List Artichoke Cafe in Albuquerque has the perfect example of a streamlined wine list. Choices are limited to a single, one-sided sheet of legal paper. Selections are divided into categories by varietal, making it easy to seek out a grape or blend you want to try. There are only a few choices for each major grape (Artichoke lists four Sauvignon Blancs and five Chardonnays, for example). You can literally read the whole list in a couple of minutes. Because the list is short and sweet, this is a great opportunity to look for something new if you’re in the mood. Look for words like “alternative” or “remarkable”—these categories will include lesser-known varietals that can present a whole new drinking experience. Do you usually gravitate toward Chardonnay? Try a Godello from Spain. Maybe you’ve always wanted to try a Carménère from Chile. Here’s your chance. Streamlined lists are also convenient because they make it easy to pinpoint wines in your price range. When the box is small, it’s easy to think outside of it.
The Country-Specific List Some restaurants specialize in the cuisine of a certain country, and likewise, their wine lists are limited to that country, like El Mesón’s almost exclusively Spanish wine list in Santa Fe. The list is divided up by type (whites, rosés and reds), with the red wines further divided into region (Rioja, Ribera del Duero, etc.). One great thing about a reasonably sized, countryspecific list like El Mesón’s is that it provides the perfect opportunity to explore food and wine pairing. The wine selections You can also are centered on the cuisine, so it will be hard to go wrong when choosing a wine to go with your tapas. begin to explore different regions within a country. For example, at El Mesón, you might decide on paella. You can order a Garnacha from Valencia, the area where paella originated. Or, you could choose a crisp white wine like Albariño from Rías Baxias. Either wine will work well, and I can’t think of a better way to learn about the different wine regions of Spain than to try them with Spanish cuisine. If you really want to branch out, you can order some of the Sherry that’s available by the glass (14 in all). These are fabulous food wines and El Mesón’s mainly Spanish list provides the perfect opportunity to try many different styles of Sherry with the cuisine it was made to compliment.
The Progressive List There are some wine lists that break the mold entirely. Instead of categorizing by varietal or place, some lists are now organizing wines by style. I’ve only seen a few of these types of lists but I suspect we’ll be seeing more of them—they’re extremely user friendly. Loyal Hound in Santa Fe utilizes this technique, dividing wine into styles for easy ordering. You can order a white wine that’s “ripe and fruity” or “rich and silky.” Red wines range Deciphering Old World Wines from “light and bright” to “complex and elegant.” As a sommelier, this type of list makes a lot of sense because it can be very useful for pinpointing what Name Color Country Blend Grape a particular customer is looking for. No matter what your level of expertise when it comes to wine, Bordeaux Red France Yes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, everyone knows what style of wine they like to drink Cabernet Franc* and can express it using simple words like “fruity,” Bordeaux White France Yes Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, “dry” and “velvety.” Muscadelle Izanami restaurant at Ten Thousand Waves Burgundy Red France No Pinot Noir employs this technique for its sake list. I’m still a novice where sake is concerned and I found their Burgundy White France No Chardonnay style descriptions very useful for helping me choose a sake to try. Beaujolais Red France No Gamay
Name That Grape:
Untangling the Knot Wine lists don’t have to be intimidating. Understanding a few basic facts will help you choose the perfect bottle. Remember that choosing the right wine isn’t just about the list—it’s about knowing what you like to drink and finding it. It’s about how much risk you’re willing to take on a bottle you’ve never tried before, about your price range and how you’re feeling that day. And choosing wine is also always about occasion: the bottle you choose for a casual dinner with friends is probably not the same one you’ll order for your anniversary dinner. But knowing what you like is half the battle, and a battle well worth fighting: a great bottle of wine is waiting as your reward.
Chablis
White
France
No
Chardonnay
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Red
France
Yes
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah*
Pouilly-Fuissè
White
France
No
Chardonnay
Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé Côtes du Rhône
White
France
No
Sauvignon Blanc
Red
France
Yes
Rioja Ribera del Duero Chianti
Red
Spain
No
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan* Tempranillo
Red
Italy
No
Sangiovese
Barolo & Barbaresco
Red
Italy
No
Nebbiolo
Soave
White
Italy
No
Garganega
*These are the main grapes used in the blend, although others may be included magazine.com
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LoyalHound
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story by ERIN BROOKS photos by STEPHEN LANG
Renee Fox and Dave Readyhough
L
oyal Hound is so fresh on the scene that there’s no sign to announce it when I arrive at the space on St. Michael’s Drive that previously housed the Hidden Chicken. Rows of wine glasses hang suspended above a brand new corrugated metal bar. The walls have been painted and the flooring replaced. Black and white photographs of Lola the hound dog (for whom the restaurant is named) decorate the dining room. A dartboard and cozy lounge chairs enclose a space for socializing at the back of the restaurant. Although it’s only been open since the first week of June, word is already out. Walking in the front door I see some folks I know from the wine business at the bar enjoying homemade beignets. Some friends from the gym are having dinner in the dining room. Renee Fox and Dave Readyhough, the couple behind Santa Fe’s new gastro pub, are veterans of the local restaurant scene and, although this is the first time they’ve owned their own place, it seems they’ve already found success with the locals.
Folks in the restaurant business are talking about Loyal Hound, and that’s because the restaurant community is loyal to Renee and Dave. The couple has been involved in the Santa Fe restaurant scene for many years. Renee works for Fiasco Fine Wine, a wine distributor, and she’s a familiar face at wine tastings and trade events. Before becoming involved in the wine business, she went to school to be a chef and earned a culinary degree. Dave worked for 14 years at Santa Fe Dining and was the general manager at Rio Chama before leaving to pursue his own restaurant. The couple originally wanted to open a food truck, but felt that mobile food vendors haven’t had the success they deserve in Santa Fe. They came across the old Hidden Chicken space and took the plunge. “We got the keys in March,” Renee tells me. “It happened really fast, finding this place and making the decision.” The transition from chicken to hound took quite a bit of work and since the couple had limited funds, they did everything themselves. With some help from friends and family, the two ripped up the old carpet and put down new tile. They built and installed the bar, including sanding, staining and sealing the eight-foot butcher block bar top. Even the tall table in the bar area that seats six to eight guests is a Renee and Dave original. Hard work is something the couple doesn’t shy away from. Renee is at the Hound every morning by 5 a.m., baking the day’s bread, beignets and biscuits before leaving for work at Fiasco. Dave is at the restaurant all day in her absence, working with the kitchen manager, helping servers and playing around with recipes. So why did they choose a location in midtown? Living on the south side, they wanted the restaurant to be nearer to where they live. “We’ve been in the restaurant business a long time,” Renee explained. “We didn’t want to be downtown. We wanted to be nearer to our community.” They also found that this part of town lacked a place for casual, inexpensive pub fare. Both Renee and Dave have a strong background in fine dining and they wanted to do something different. “When you’re in that environment,” Renee says, “the food you crave is home cooked food. So when we traveled, we looked for the gastro pub-type places. We wanted that kind of comfort food.” Loyal Hound will be a great compliment to the other eateries in midtown, an area that’s really taking on a unique culinary identity. Places like Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen, Dr. Field Goods Kitchen and Midtown Bistro have been great additions to the restaurant scene here. Loyal Hound brings even more diversity, serving high quality pub fare in a social setting. There’s nothing quite like it so far in this area. The clientele will also pull from the midtown area, as Renee and Dave hope for a lot of business from locals. “The location is so accessible,” Renee explains. It’s not far off the beaten track for someone from the east side or from the south side. “We don’t expect to be a tourist destination,” she says. “By design, it’s a neighborhood locals’ place.” The couple has had a lot of support from folks in the restaurant business. “We’re getting a lot of good response from industry people, which means a lot to both of us,” Renee says. “It’s a huge compliment.” From the beginning, food has been the main focus. “For me, the definition is a place to socialize,” Renee says. “But on top of that, it’s a place where you have comfort food or what people might consider bar food, but more upscale. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Better quality ingredients, a little more creative.” The couple is using as much organic produce as possible and working to make connections with local vendors so they can serve more locally sourced food. “It’s comfort food that’s satiating, in a social environment with great beer and wine,” Renee sums up. Renee is the mastermind behind most of the recipes, but she and Dave both spend time in the kitchen experimenting with new recipes and flavors. The menu is small on purpose, focused on a few dishes that can be executed quickly using the freshest ingredients, with a good mix of items that are ready to serve and items that are made to order. The pork and waffles is a great example. The barbecue braised Heritage pork is made and ready by the time the doors open for the day, but the savory Belgian waffles are each made to order. Above all, Renee and Dave want the food at Loyal Hound to be fresh. They also envisioned a small menu of fun items you can eat any time of the day. People can come in for a beer and a snack, or have a full meal in the dining room. I had a fabulous meal at the bar, where I chatted with Dave and his super friendly staff and watched a bit of soccer, which played without sound on the TV in the bar area. I’m a southern girl at heart (from North Carolina) and I just had to try the spicy fried chicken and biscuits. It’s been awhile since I’ve had a proper homemade biscuit and Renee’s baking didn’t disappoint. The sriracha buttermilk marinated fried chicken with honey butter and crumbly, fresh biscuits were served with a light apple and fennel coleslaw that balanced the dish and kept it from feeling too heavy. The white chili stew with chicken, green chile, white beans, jack cheese and sour cream was divine. Dave’s secret ingredient (hint: it’s a holiday spice) really complimented the savory stew. Between plates, I snacked on Marcona almonds with fresh rosemary and fried Castelvetrano olives. The Bert’s Burger was also delicious and exactly what you want in a hamburger: local grass-fed beef topped with Hatch green chile and cheddar, with homemade fries on the side. Beer and wine at Loyal Hound are also high quality. Dave handpicks all the craft beers, six of which are on tap. I enjoyed the Scrimshaw Pilsner, and when the cold weather rolls in I’ll switch to the Old Rasputin, an imperial stout from California. Loyal Hound is also the second restaurant in New Mexico to carry wine on tap. Renee has chosen some great food-friendly wines to go with the menu. The Baileyana rosé on tap was crisp, fruity and delightfully drinkable. I also really enjoyed the Zocker Grüner Veltliner on tap, which was juicy and clean with citrus and mineral, an ideal pairing to cut through some of the heavier items on the menu. All the wines on tap are SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified. “The wine on tap was really important for us,” Renee says. “It’s an investment up front, but it’s really about being fresh, whether it’s the food or the wine.” With Santa Fe in the midst of another busy summer, Loyal Hound will be a great spot for locals to relax and enjoy fun, delicious comfort food. The prices are some of the best in town, despite the labor and the quality of the ingredients that go into the menu. For Renee and Dave, it’s a labor of love. “Chefs cook because they like to make people feel good,” Renee says, smiling. “That’s what we do.” The Loyal Hound is located at 730 St. Michael’s Drive in Santa Fe. 505.471.0440. loyalhoundpub.com.
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The ultimate insider’s look at the 24th Annual Wine & Chile Fiesta. Our all-star cast of food and wine writers will have your mouth watering!
• For the past 18 years, readers
have anticipated the arrival of our biggest magazine of the year — the Wine and Chile Issue.
• On news stands September 1st to promote early reservations for your wine dinners.
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registration desks, wine and food seminars, dinners, and, of course, The Big Event!
• Regular distribution in over 530 locations throughout Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Los Alamos and Taos.
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in Santa Fe Lianne Aponte505.629.6544 Margret Henkels 505.501.2290 Mary Brophy 505.231.3181 in Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130 Tyler Schutte 505.238.9604 Carrie Carter 806.407.2455 Amber Gillreath 505.235.9216
Wants to Know!
stor y by JOHN VOLLERTSEN
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Photo: Gaelen Casey
ChefJohnny Vee he buzz about new chefs and restaurants certainly gets out to the universe a lot faster these days with the advent of Twitter, Facebook, and email. And as much as I like to think I have my finger on the pulse of the food scene, sometimes I have to rely on readers and coworkers to give me a heads up about a restaurant they think I might enjoy. Such is the case with the Pueblo Harvest Cafe & Bakery at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (IPCC) in Albuquerque. Such dining destinations can often be perfunctory in purpose—there to feed the public who visit the establishment but not really a place you would seek out. So as I put it on my list of must-dine-there-soon, I thought I would hit up Executive Chef Michael Giese prior to my visit and find out what he’s all about. I’m looking forward to sampling his shrimp burger with a nice cold glass of a crisp Pinot Grigio! John Vollertsen: I understand that your sous chef Burt Wilson is Native. What is your heritage and was it unusual for the Cultural Center to hire a non-native to be executive chef? Michael Giese: I’m half German and the other half is a mix of Irish, English and probably some Dutch and Polish in there too. Looking at all the chefs that have been here at the center, I would say its 50 percent Natives and 50 percent non-Natives. The culinary world is more blind to ethnicity than any other occupation that I know of. It’s more based on what you know, how can you improve on what we have, the development of staff and relationships (inside and outside the organization) and finally how much money can you make for the organization.
I worked for a chef by the name of Calvin Harris and he taught me how and why to use salt. It seems simple but it is one of the most commonly made mistakes in kitchens. He taught me how use it to balance flavors or to make them stand out. JV: Some food in tourist destinations can be pretty ordinary. How do you make it special? MG: What we try to do is give our customers the Pueblo experience without them having to go to a feast day at a Pueblo. We let them experience the traditional dishes, such as feast day stew, Tewa taco (Indian taco), fry bread, oven bread, enchiladas and many others. But we also let the more adventurous dinners experience Native fusion with dishes such as our carne po’boy sandwich
JV: Where did you get your experience cooking with Native ingredients? MG: Most of my experience cooking Native cuisine has come from working at the IPCC. Working with and learning from my Native sous chef, bakers and cooks to understand why things are done the way they are on all of the different Pueblos. I find out from them what are some of the common and obscure ingredients that are used in Native cooking. JV: Tell me briefly about your resume and which restaurant or chef that you worked with gave you your most valued experience? MG: I started in the industry when I was 15, in Occoquan, Virginia. I was bored at home and asked my mom if she could find me a weekend job in the same area she worked. She did and the next week I started working for Mr. James—he was from the Ivory Coast of Africa—at his cafe next to where my mom worked. After that I was hooked. Then it was the normal free-standing restaurant chains, cooking for the catering department at an amusement park, some independent restaurants and even a few golf courses and a country club. And then I got my first executive chef position in 2002 at the University of Texas, Arlington. I was 26. When I moved to Albuquerque I was the executive chef over all of the Flying Stars and Satellite Coffees. | Executive Chef Michael Giese 40
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(a play on a bahn mi), breakfast Frito pie made with carne adovada and our grilled elk sirloin with a juniper blueberry sauce. JV: What is your favorite dish on the menu? MG: It’s very simple, it’s the fry bread. I can eat that every day, either with green chile sauce, honey, some spring mix and chicken or just by itself. But I have to admit I really like it with a little crunchy peanut butter and jelly on it. It starts my day off right. JV: You are famous for your wildly colored chef gear. How did that become a part of your shtick? MG: I went to a chef conference in Chicago and was one in a thousand that was in their white chef coat and black pants. After meeting a few people, the only names I could remember were the chefs with the oddcolored pants. So I took that to its logical conclusion, way, way left. My orange pants are kind of my trademark and who can forget my Grimace chef coat, which is mostly purple with green, orange, yellow and pink accent colors. Most of the time I can see the question raised in people’s minds: “Is he color blind?” No, I’m not, but you do remember me when you see me in a room. JV: You describe your cuisine as Native fusion—explain. MG: Native fusion cuisine is putting all of the knowledge that I have of other cuisines (such as Asian, French, German, Southern style cooking…) and making it work well together with Native ingredients and different Native cooking techniques. A great example of this is our carne po’boy sandwich. It’s a play on a bahn mi and a po’boy. We take a crusty baguette, fill it full of carne adovada, pile it up with a sour cream coleslaw, top it with paper thin shaved red onions, crumbled queso fresca and chopped fresh cilantro. The sandwich pulls from all three cultures, it combines them, and the result is freaking awesome. JV: It must be a challenge operating a restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is your personal favorite meal and your personal favorite dish? MG: I like breakfast … the eggs, the meat, pancakes and even cereal. I like everything about it except getting up early in the morning to make it. My personal favorite dish has to be any variation on eggs benedict. The wilder the variation the better, but don’t get me wrong, I do love the original as well. You have to have a standard to start from. JV: What are some of the awards you’ve won? MG: I won at the first ever Chef Knock Out and the Best New Dish in Albuquerque—for my Southwest Eggs Bennie. I was also named one of the Top 40 Chefs Under 40 by the trade magazine FSR.
Photo courtesy of the IPCC
JV: What is your favorite wine varietal and what dishes on your menu do you think it pairs well with? MG: I thoroughly love a Pinot Grigio, which is always my first choice when it comes to wines. It’s fabulous with our shrimp burger. The combination of the fruitiness of the wine and the sweet flavor of the shrimp, the slightly spicy diced green chile and the herbs in the garlic mayo—it truly makes it my favorite pairing of the summer. The Pueblo Harvest Café is in the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center at 2401 12th Street NW in Albuquerque. 505.843.7270. indianpueblo.org.
+Hungry for more wisdom from local chefs? Visit localfavormagazine.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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StillHungry? J
story by MIA CARBONE
Photo: Gaelen Casey
Photo: Gabriella Marks
uly has come and gone—the monsoons have graced us with their delicious rains and our parched desert sighs with relief as it exhales the most intoxicating earthen scents. What a rich, romantic time of year here in the high desert! And what better way to pay culinary homage to the climax of summertime than with the words and recipes of one of our most esteemed chefs? This month, Mark Kiffin, chef and owner of one of Santa Fe’s historic landmarks, The Compound Restaurant, shares with us some of his favorite “summer fun” recipes—from sweet corn soup to lobster salad and diver scallops to glazed peaches with cream cheese ice cream.
| Chef Mark Kiffin of The Compound Restaurant
Chef Mark Kiffin’s skill and reputation, along with his restaurant’s historic Canyon Road setting, are among the reasons Santa Fe is a renowned culinary destination. Chef Mark explains that chefs outside of New Mexico “know Santa Fe from the work I and Mark Miller have done in town for the last 25 years. Plus, just like the tourists from Texas, Colorado and California, they come for all the things Santa Fe is known for: art and culture and the great outdoors.” Named the Best Chef of the Southwest in 2005 by the James Beard Foundation, Kiffin’s role at The Compound is dual: he is the restaurant’s chef and the curator of its historic landmark building. Last year, The Compound was named a Culinary Treasure by the State of New Mexico Tourism Department. “The award was given to those in business 40 years plus. The fact that we’ve been such an important place to so many people for so long means we just keep growing, succeeding and trying to do our best for our guests,” says Kiffin. The Compound is coming up on 50 years of operation. While food has remained exceptional throughout the chef ’s tenure, the building has seen some changes in the past couple of years. “We just upgraded our dining room with a new beeswax wall treatment, all new banco upholstery and chairs,” Chef Mark says, and just last year, The Compound installed an Allan Houser sculpture garden. With the Wine and Chile Fiesta coming up next month, we Flavorites were curious what this creative chef has up his sleeve for the event. Mark laughs—he says it’s “still a secret what we have planned for this year.” Needless to say, we can’t wait to find out, and until then, we can’t think of a better place to sit and enjoy the scents and sounds and tastes of late summer than The Compound’s beautiful patio. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Lobster Salad with Sweet Corn, Red Pepper, Butter Lettuce and Basil in a Creamy Orange Vinaigrette Yield 4 servings 3 ears sweet corn, shucked and cut off of the cob 2 Maine lobsters approximately 1¼ pounds each, cooked in boiling salted water for 6 minutes, then cooled in ice water 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into small dice 1 medium red onion, cut into small dice 1 small bunch basil, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe creamy orange vinaigrette (below) 1 head butter or bib lettuce, cored, cleaned and spun dry, leaves whole 1 lemon
Photo: Gaelen Casey
Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add the corn, blanch 39 seconds and shock in cold water. Drain completely.
Made-to-Order Summer Sweet Corn Soup with Farmers Market Vegetable Relish Yield 4 servings
Remove the lobster meat from the shells and cut into large pieces. Toss with the peppers, onion and basil, season to taste. Take a portion of the dressing and toss with the leaves of lettuce, until coated but not “wet” with dressing. Take another portion (remember you can always add more) and toss with the lobster, corn, red pepper, red onion and basil and season with the dressing. Arrange the lettuce leaves in cold bowls and place a portion of the lobster salad on top. Garnish with lemon wedges. Can also be served with crunchy French bread or sliced avocados.
Creamy Orange Vinaigrette Yield 1 cup
1-1 ½ quarts light vegetable stock 3 ears sweet corn, shucked and cut off the cob 2 scallions, white part only, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup cream, optional Bring vegetable stock to a simmer, add corn and scallion, season to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and return to a simmer for 5 minutes. Add cream now if using. The corn should be tender but still sweet and not starchy. Place in blender and puree at high speed until completely smooth and slightly foamy. For a thinner consistency, strain. Adjust seasoning and serve hot.
1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar or champagne vinegar 2 cups fresh orange juice reduced down to ¼ cup, cooled ¾ cup grapeseed or light vegetable oil 1 egg yolk Combine all ingredients, adding the egg yolk last.
For the vegetable relish, I like to see what looks the best at the market: zucchini, yellow squash, peas, green beans or baby onions. Chop, if necessary, and pan roast with a little whole butter and a touch of vegetable stock and finish with freshly chopped basil or parsley.
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Seared Diver Scallops, Orecchiette Pasta tossed with Fava Beans, Peas, Green Onions and Fresh Ricotta, served with Caramelized Limes and Vermouth Butter 4 small Key or Mexican limes Pinch white sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Olive oil for cooking 8-10 diver or dry-pack sea scallops, weighing a total of approximately 1 pound ¼ pound orecchiette pasta, cooked in boiling salted water until al dente and drained ½ pound fresh fava beans, blanched and skins removed ½ pound fresh English peas—peas removed and blanched 1 small bunch scallions, sliced thin ¼ pound fresh whole milk ricotta cheese, the New York creamy style is best 1 recipe vermouth butter sauce (below) Preheat the oven to 400°. Cut the limes in half, season with the pinch of sugar, salt and pepper and toss with a very small amount of oil to coat. Roast cut side up in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until the limes brown. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and toss in a small amount of oil to coat. Heat a black steel, cast iron or non-stick pan to very hot. At the same time, bring a small pot of water to a boil, large enough to place a basket or china cap in to reheat your cooked pasta. Heat the pasta for 1 minute, add the fava beans and peas into the same water to heat, drain and remove to a glass or stainless steel bowl. Fold in the scallions and lightly toss with “pieces” of the cheese—do not over mix to make creamy—and season with salt and pepper. While the pasta is heating sear the scallops at high heat turning only once, approximately 30-45 seconds on each side. Place the pasta mixture down on plates, top with two scallops per plate, spoon the vermouth butter sauce around and garnish with the limes.
Vermouth Butter Sauce
Photo: Gabriella Marks
Yield 4 appetizer servings
Wildflower Honey-Glazed Peaches with Cream Cheese Ice Cream and Toasted Pecans Yield 4 servings 4-8 peaches approximately 1 pound ¼ cup wildflower or other good honey 1 pint cream cheese ice cream, or vanilla bean ¼ cup pecan pieces, lightly toasted Preheat oven to 400°. Cut the peaches in half, remove pit and toss with the honey. I have found that if it is slightly warm, the honey coats the peaches better and is easier to handle. Roast the peaches on a nonstick baking sheet or pan (easier to clean) for approximately 15-20 minutes. You can also grill them or sear in a cast iron pan for a more caramelized taste, but you must be careful not to burn them with the high sugar content. Place in bowls and top with ice cream and toasted pecans.
Yield 1 cup ½ cup Noilly Prat or other dry white vermouth 1 Tablespoon champagne vinegar 4 whole black peppercorns 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 pound unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and kept cold In a heavy-bottom small saucepan, place the vermouth, vinegar, peppercorns and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and reduce to approximately 2 tablespoons. Stir in the butter a few pieces at a time, until fully incorporated and smooth. Strain and keep warm but not hot.
The Compound Restaurant is located at 653 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.4353, compoundrestaurant.com.
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Reservations 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com
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On October 4 & 5 come and be part of our tradition at our 2nd Annual
• Buy direct from more than 50 artists creating traditional and contemporary works
• See the latest in Native clothing designs at the Red Threads Fashion Show
• Experience the splendor of Native dancers • Be here for our Pueblo Throw (a gift-giving event)! • Visit with Native art demonstrators • Enjoy Native Fusion cuisine at our Pueblo Harvest Café • October 4 concert with premier Native American flute player
R. Carlos Nakai and featuring William Eaton and Will Clipman
• Plenty of free parking • American Bus Association’s top 100 events in North America! Ind i an Pueblo Cul t u r al C en ter ~ 2401 12th St. N W Alb u q u e rq u e 86 6-85 5- 7902 ~ w w w. i n di an pu ebl o. o rg /a ia f