S A NTA FE | A L B U Q U E R QUE | TAOS
A TAST E OF LIFE I N N EW M EXI CO
D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4 / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 5
The Call
of Kachina Peak
MAGAZINE.COM
Top Ten Dishes Winter of 2014
on the Pueblo
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DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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Gifts
yo u r l i f e
• •
Home Decor
• Furnishings
yo u r h o m e
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yo u r s t y l e
Special Pricing for the Holidays ~ Now through Januar y 15
428 Sandoval Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • samueldesigngroup.com • 505.820.0239 Monday – Friday 10am to 5pm
Open Saturdays 10am to 2pm December 6, 13 & 20
Inside
The Buzz … and the Art Buzz by Kelly Koepke 8
What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!
Kachina Peak
by Gordon Bunker 14
on your feet
One of the biggest and most anticipated national ski stories this year is happening right in Taos at mystical Kachina Peak.
Sanbusco Market Center www.OnYourFeetSF.com Info line: (505) 983-3900
Top Ten Dishes of the Year—Santa Fe by Chef Johnny Vee 19
What Local Flavor readers have been waiting for all year—our pick of the top ten dishes of 2014! But wait—there’s more! The list is not complete until we hear from you.
Gifts For Foodies
by Lily Carbone 24
Remember the Local Flavor mantra “Think local. Shop local. Stay local.” when you’re shopping for the foodies on your gift list. Here are ten (!) fabulous cookbooks, all from local authors.
Santa Fe School of Cooking
by Melyssa Holik 28
Susan Curtis and her daughter Nicole Ammerman celebrate the 25th anniversary of their iconic cooking school.
Winter on Canvas
by Lily Carbone 32
Local Flavor invited ten art galleries to send a photograph or painting that captured the essence of a New Mexico winter—the perfect gift for the art lover on your holiday list.
All in the Family
by Emily Beenen 37
Terry and Pat Keene raised their sons Evan and Gavin in the business in the timehonored way of most restaurant families—busing tables and washing dishes. Today, their three restaurants, Artichoke, Farina and Farina Alto, are “all in the family.”
Top Ten Dishes of the Year—Albuquerque by Kate Gerwin 40
Time for the big reveal! It’s the top ten dishes in the Duke City—a list to wow you and an invitation to let us know who we missed.
Quiet Winter on the Pueblo
by Emily Beenen 45
The austere winter months are a time for the private feast days of Laguna Pueblo, the gathering of families and, for potter Josie Seymour, a time to create.
Barkin’ Ball
by Eve Tolpa 48
It’s Local Flavor’s Favorite for December—a doggone good time that starts with a Yappy Hour and only gets crazier.
Somm’s on the Rise
by Erin Brooks 52
Three up-and-coming beverage professionals give us their take on trends to look for in 2015.
Still Hungry?
by Caitlin Richards 56
As 2014 is pushed to the back burner, it’s nice to know that Santa Fe chefs are already turning up the heat on 2015. Wait til you hear what they’re planning for the new year!
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2014 - JANUARY 2015 Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz
Publisher’s Assistant: Lily Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Courtesy Taos Ski Valley Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Kate Collins 505.470.1612 Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130. Jason Smith 505.203.9705.
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DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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Shop simple, shop local, shop smart this holiday season. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
5
Letter
Welcome to our December issue. This month you can expect a touch of excitement and glamour with the naming of the Top Ten Dishes of 2014, a bit of bragging about the opening of Kachina Peak, a deeper appreciation of what it takes to run a family business, a Christmas ball with four-legged guests in black tie—and that’s just for starters. There are lots of fun stories waiting to be unwrapped under our tree this year.
Photo: Jasmine Quinsier
As in years past there was a real buzz of anticipation in the air as we named our annual Top Ten Dishes of 2014. In Albuquerque, former restaurant owner, sommelier and bon vivant Kate Gerwin did the honors, covering the city’s dynamic and diverse culinary scene. Make no mistake about it, Duke City restaurateurs take a back seat to no one when it comes to cutting edge sophisticated dining, just as they have always offered a rich and diverse assortment of international cuisine. If you don’t know at least seven out of Kate’s ten picks—you don’t know Albuquerque. In Santa Fe we asked Chef Johnny Vee to do the naming honors again this year. Chef, culinary teacher, cookbook author—John is the go-to guy for all things culinary in this town, but it’s still a tough assignment. After all, Santa Fe is consistently in Condé Nast’s top tourist destination list—so for John, it was an embarrassment of riches to choose from. We know our readers won’t agree with them all—so this year we’re encouraging you foodies out there to weigh in with your favorites. It’s a great way to give a little love to your favorite chef and be a part of the fun follow-up story in our next issue. After a salute to chefs at the top of their game, we turn to three young soon-to-be sommeliers who are at the start of their careers. We think you’ll enjoy hearing their stories, feel the passion they have for their chosen vocations and agree that we’re in good hands with this up and coming generation of restaurant professionals. The opening of Kachina Peak is the biggest story in the ski industry this year—and by that we mean the industry worldwide. But our cover and our cover story is meant to capture what that really means to us as New Mexicans. It is not the domination of the mountain, but rather “The Call of Kachina Peak” that we wanted to write about. Our thanks to writer Gordon Bunker and art director, Jasmine Quinsier, who captured the ethereal and spiritual essence of this great event. Thank you for reading Local Flavor throughout the year. Each and every issue has been a great joy to create and it is an even greater joy to know that you appreciate it. Happy Holidays from all of us.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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ALBUQUERQUE Slate Street Café, a stalwart of the Downtown dining scene, is undergoing some changes— all positive—for the new year. Owner Myra Ghattas is redoing both the interior and the menu, adding in smaller plates to complement diners’ favorites. The interior redo includes new colors, lighting, seating changes and a reconfigured dining area. The wine loft, an attraction in itself with its monthly wine sampling events, will remain, satisfying oenophiles and lovers of unique nibbles. We look forward to experiencing the changes in one of our reliable favorites.
Photo: Joy Godfrey
In other changes, Nob Hill Bar & Grill has a new owner, a familiar face to Albuquerque diners. Nicole Kapnison, co-proprietor of Yanni’s and Lemoni Lounge across the street from Nob Hill Bar & Grill, has taken the helm. Current chef Phil Roybal and the rest of the team remain, along with the quality dining, the aquarium and edgy vibe that the bar and grill is known for. We know Kapnison will keep the friendly, neighborhood feel of Nob Hill Bar & Grill going strong.
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Nicole Kapnison of Yanni’s and Nob Hill Bar & Grill
Another Nob Hill restaurant note: welcome Ajiaco Colombian Bistro to Silver Avenue, next to P’tit Louis and Limonata. Owners Nubia and Pedro Sabogal made a name for themselves with their now closed El Pollo Real, showing Duke Citians how delicious South American cuisine can be. Instead of the pan-Latin food served at El Pollo Real, Ajiaco presents Colombian food exclusively, like its signature soup, called ajiaco, made with chicken, potatoes and guasca, an Andean herb. Nubia is in charge of the kitchen, while Pedro
manages the front. The buzz around town is that the rice is to die for, as are the arepas, handmade corn cakes filled with deliciousness. We can’t wait to try it! Congrats to North Valley favorite Farm & Table for being chosen to partner with Cien Aguas International School student Max Johnson-Jimenez, the New Mexico state winner of the third annual Healthy Lunchtime Challenge and Kids’ State Dinner recipe contest to promote healthy lunches. Chef Sean Sinclair’s cooking demos in November and early December inspired kids and parents to incorporate more cooking into their lives and build basic healthy cooking skills. We’re hearing nothing but good things about Central Grill and Coffee House on Central near Rio Grande in Old Town. The espresso bar is killer, the drive-thru gets your coffee-togo order to you fast and the atmosphere inside is perfect for hanging out even after your meal is over. The menu is small but representative of the diner tradition—burgers, salads, grilled and cold sandwiches and breakfast is served all day. Mmmm … I do loves me some breakfast for lunch (or dinner). Save some chicken and waffles for me! Open seven days a week, but visit them at centralgrillcoffeealbuquerque. com for daily hours, which vary. The coordinator of the wildly popular Diner en Blanc in October wants to liven your holidays with Christmas at Hogwarts, an equally large-scale benefit for UNM Children’s Hospital. Micaela Brown and her elves will recreate the magical Christmas feast from the Harry Potter films, with floating candles, talking sorting hats, performers, butter beer, walls lined with Harry Potter Christmas trees and all of the Hogwarts Houses. The event on December 5 has limited availability, so get your tickets asap at christmasathogwarts.org. Giving and receiving are what the holidays are all about, right? Albuquerque Theatre Guild and Theatre Lovers Community recently awarded grants to local companies to improve the audience experience. Congrats to Aux Dog Theatre Nob Hill, Musical Theatre Southwest, Camino Real Productions, elite Dance Company of New Mexico, Theatre-in-the-Making and The Vortex
Music lovers have a lot to celebrate in December and January, courtesy of AMP Concerts. Globalquerque favorite Ukrainian ensemble DakhaBrakha is back December 1 at The Dirty Bourbon, Leo Kottke returns to the KiMo on December 4, the stellar double bill of Ryan Adams and Jenny Lewis storms the Kiva on December 8 and it’s Christmas from Ireland featuring instrumental powerhouse Lúnasa and the original voice of Solas, the sweet songbird Karan Casey, on December 13. January 17 brings MarchFourth Marching Band and on January 21 see banjo master Bela Fleck with Abigail Washburn. I don’t know how AMP Concerts does it, but they do! Info and tickets at ampconcerts.org. Everyone loves the annual River of Lights at the Botanic Garden, so get your tickets now! Millions of twinkling lights, music, food, drinks and holiday cheer turn the Botanic Garden into a winter wonderland of family friendly activity that grown-ups appreciate, too. River of Lights runs through January 3 (closed December 24, 25, 31 and January 1) and on select nights in December, guests can also purchase a ticket to board the Polar Bear Express, a train ride with Santa and his elves. Advance tickets recommended (and required for the train ride), at riveroflights.org.
teamwork of owner Murphy O’Brien and chef Chris Galvin and their new delicious dinner menu. Café Fina’s been serving up amazing breakfasts (OMG the cloudcakes!) and lunches on Old Las Vegas Highway for a while, and diners have long lamented the lack of evening meals. Monday Dosa Night with chef Paulraj Karuppasamy will continue, too. These evenings of authentic Indian street fare are a not-so-well-kept secret. Beer and wine is in the works, so check their Facebook page for the latest news and menus. And speaking of dosas, Chef Karuppasamy and his wife and business partner, Nellie Tischler, will open a permanent locale for Paper Dosa at 551 Cordova, next to Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen. An early January opening is planned, says Chef, but be sure to check their Facebook page or paper-dosa. com to be sure. I can’t wait to try their chai with some dahi vada, lentil doughnuts soaked in a spiced yogurt with a drizzle of mint and tamarind chutney. Hurrah for authentic South Indian cuisine! Happy 25th anniversary to Santa Fe School of Cooking! Santa Fe Mayor Javier Gonzales proclaimed Saturday, December 14 Santa Fe School of Cooking Day and the school will celebrate from 2 to 5 p.m. by introducing their new cookbook Santa Fe School of Cooking: Celebrating the Foods of New Mexico. Join shop founder Susan Curtis and daughter Nicole Curtis Ammerman, director of operations, for a tamale making demonstration, cookie decorating and recipe sampling from the 120 page cookbook. Bring a bag of non-perishable food and you’ll get 25 percent off any purchase. Visit santafeschoolofcooking.com.
Photo: Jasmine Quinsier
the
Buzz
b y K E L LY K O E P K E
Theatre for awards for projects as varied as removing barriers to handicapped access and support for upcoming productions. And TLC has more good news for audiences: special membership prices for the holidays. A TLC membership includes discount offers from various Albuquerque theatres, invites to exclusive rehearsals and auditions, inside/ backstage looks at major productions and more. For info, visit abqtheatre.org.
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River of Lights
SANTA FE
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Santa Fe School of Cooking
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Indulge
Mark your calendar and have a light lunch on December 5, when Café Fina begins serving dinner! Yep, Friday, Saturday and Sunday starting at 5:30, everyone can now enjoy the
In Railyard area news, have you indulged at Indulge, 317 Aztec Street? Owner Misha Hesse’s Indulge features “beauty, gifts and confection,” with something for everyone. Hesse is passionate about, and committed to finding, the highest quality products, she
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says, from the luscious skincare line May Lindstrom to sweet and unique children’s toys from France, an exclusive organic makeup line from Australia to beautiful, vintage Fair Trade bags from Thailand. The new space has been completely transformed since its previous incarnation as the Aztec Café, and now radiates warmth and elegance. Soon it will further expand to include a kitchen/cafe, Ma Chérie, scheduled for a spring debut. Ma Chérie will specialize in decadent desserts infused with an array of superfoods and organic and foraged elements to make them truly like no others.
carries over 400 products, including 165 proprietary blends, gluten-free, non-GMO and not irradiated. To sign up for the event, email slowfoodsantafe@gmail.com. Head out to La Tienda in Eldorado on December 6 for Cowgirl Christmas, an all day event with vendors, food, cookie decorating and a book signing by author Joel Bernstein of Wild Ride, his book about the history of the rodeo in America. Artist Rick Regan will auction an original oil painting he created just for Cowgirl Christmas 2014, and there’s a free drawing for Sahran, the 2014 limited edition Breyer model. Visit cowgirlchristmas2014.com to see the complete list of vendors, including local artists Mayumi Nishida, Jon Carver, Thom Ross and Ricky Lee. Proceeds from the event go to the Santa Fe Pony Club.
Photo: Rick Meinecke
Photo: Mia Rose Carbone
December 20 through 28 at Santa Fe’s Armory for the Arts Theater, The Clan Tynker, a local troupe of brother and sister circus/vaudeville performers, perform The Dream Train. Since 1995, this group of talents has performed stunning feats in a fanciful Vaudeville-style of entertainment for all ages. Dazzling juggling skills, magic, stilt walking, unicycle riding, dance, comedy, audience participation and puppetry all culminate in a spectacular heartpounding finale. “It’s a great joy for all of us | Patty with Fernando Olea to perform in our home town of Santa Fe this USA Today named Epazote on the Hillside holiday season,” says Rebekah Tynker. “The a Top 10 place for lunch in Santa Fe, and Dream Train is a perfect way for families to we agree. Chef Fernando Olea took over celebrate the season with family circus fun!” The the greenhouse at this former nursery and Clan Tynker has also worked in the Hollywood prepares his inspired New World cuisine in film industry, with names such as Ron Howard an open kitchen using ingredients from his and Cate Blanchett, and were highlighted in native Mexico. The specialty moles are killer, Beer for my Horses, starring Willie Nelson. as are the unusual botanas, bite-sized morsels Tickets at brownpapertickets.com and visit that are cooked tableside using the heated clantynker.com. stones. Try the huitlacoche, octopus or chapulines (grasshoppers) for a one of a kind lunch experience, daily except Wednesdays, epazotesantafe.com.
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Kate Wheeler
If you’re tired of the same old holiday appetizers, join Slow Food Santa Fe for a holiday entertaining event with Kate Wheeler at the Savory Spice Shop. December 10, Kate will share recipes for holiday quick breads, appetizers, dips, cheese logs and more, with plenty of tastings, too. Enjoy mulled wine, spiced cider, cheese and vegetable platters and many of the baked goods you’ll be learning about. Kate is a Johnson & Wales-trained chef with international culinary experience, and 10 years ago she entered the professional world of spice, working her way up as a grinder, blender and manager before becoming a proprietor. She says, “I love what I do! I live, breathe and am spices.” Savory Spice
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The Clan Tynker
TAOS Drumroll please! Restaurant Gutiz opens for dinner with renowned Chef Erica Miller in December! Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings beginning December 4 feature Latin-French comfort cuisine in small plates. Discerning diners have been asking FOREVER for Gutiz to offer dinner, and now with Taoseno Miller’s guidance, the fare is sure to please. Visit their Facebook page for complete details and menu items. We’ve got our eye on the citrus marinated wild mahi-mahi …
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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the
Buzz
ALBUQUERQUE If you missed this year’s Festival of the Cranes at Bosque del Apache, you’ve got a second chance. This year’s featured artist, Sandra Corless, will be selling signed copies of her sandhill crane poster photograph, “Looking for a Mate,” at the annual New Mexico Photographic Arts Show (ANMPAS), at Expo New Mexico. The exhibition runs December 7 through 29 and all proceeds from the sale of the poster benefit the Bosque del Apache. Corless is an avid wild bird photographer and “Looking for a Mate” is part of her current project called In the Company of Cranes, which reveals the birds’ intimate behaviors and human-like characteristics. Head to anmpas.com for details, times and info about the full exhibition highlighting the best of New Mexico’s amateur and professional photographers. This January, Weyrich Gallery features artists Chris Meyer (mixed media) and Jenn Noel (ceramics). Chris combines modern photography and printing with traditional collage and assemblage to create objects that appear to be unearthed from another culture or time, each with its own story to tell. Jenn’s functional pottery perfectly compliments Chris’s objects, featuring earthy glazes and traditional symbols such as spirals. She believes handmade objects allow you to slow down and experience the beauty of the world. Both artists’ works gives the impression of being archaeological finds while still being recently made, fitting Weyrich’s overall theme of “diverse works from dreams, folklore, myth and the earth.” The opening reception is Friday, January 2, 5 to 8:30 p.m., and both artists will be present to discuss and explain their work. The show runs through January 30. Weyrich Gallery is at the corner of Louisiana and Candelaria, weyrichgallery.com.
and most colorful bohemians, Morang’s been called a neglected master. Now, Matthews Gallery is excited to present Morang and Friends, an exhibition of artwork by Alfred Morang and his contemporaries, opening December 12 with a special reception that evening. Running through December 26, the exhibition features a charred violin, sketches and extensive writings, alongside artwork by Morang and other New Mexico modernists of the period. Morang made impressionistic, heavily impastoed landscapes and portraits, treating his pigments like a sculptural medium. As a revered art teacher and prolific painter, he helped shape a generation of Santa Fe artists. For more visit thematthewsgallery.com.
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Alfred Morang
The traditional arts of the Southwest are brought together in one volume for the first time in Southwest Art Defined: An Illustrated Guide by Margaret Moore Booker. “If a person had no other book on the arts of the Southwest, this one could provide a better starting point than any other I have seen,” says Jonathan Batkin, director of the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. This comprehensive survey of Native American and Hispano art is accompanied by full color photographs of works from museums, galleries and private collections, featuring terms or definitions for the traditional decorative arts of the Southwest. Get your copy at Collected Works, Garcia Street Books, Museum of Indian Arts and Culture gift shop, International Folk Art Museum gift shop, Wheelright Museum gift shop and the La Fonda Hotel’s gift store.
New Views, Old Villages WATERCOLORS BY
TOM NOBLE
| Chris Meyer, “The Horse in America”
SANTA FE The New Mexico History Museum opens its new exhibition December 7: Setting the Standard: The Fred Harvey Company and its Legacy, telling the story of the Fred Harvey Company and its impact on New Mexico. The company, known for its necklace of eating houses and hotels (like Santa Fe’s La Fonda on the Plaza and Las Vegas’ La Castaneda Hotel), served passengers heading west on the railroad. Opening day events include filmmaker Katrina Parks’ 57-minute documentary The Harvey Girls: Opportunity Bound, and at 2 p.m., exhibition curator Meredith Davidson joins Parks and Stephen Fried (author of Appetite for America: Fred Harvey and the Business of Civilizing the Wild West—One Meal at a Time) for a discussion. Admission for New Mexico residents is always free on Sundays, we lucky residents … The second annual GLOW—A Winter Lights Event in the Garden begins December 4 at Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill. The garden will be lit up like a winter wonderland Thursday through Saturday evenings from 5 to 8 p.m. through January 3. Friday nights bring Santa and Saturday nights feature live musical entertainment and a cash bar. Dress warmly and bring the whole family. When Alfred Morang’s Canyon Road studio caught fire in 1958, the Santa Fe art community was shocked to the core by his death. One of Santa Fe’s best known
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Southwest Art Defined
TAOS If you didn’t get enough Fred Harvey in Santa Fe, head to Taos and the Millicent Rogers Museum through January 31 for its own exhibition, Fred Harvey and the Making of the American West. The Fred Harvey Company in many ways created the images that most Americans have of the American West. Through postcards, books, jewelry and more, the name Fred Harvey became synonymous with all things west of Kansas. This unique exhibit, featuring items borrowed from the family of Fred Harvey, will tell the story of the company that made the west! Special highlights include work by Maria Martinez and Nampeyo, Native American pottery artists whose careers were heavily influenced by their time working for Fred Harvey. See the train layout just as children in the 1950s and 60s would have seen it on Christmas morning. Visit millicentrogers.org for details.
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“Near Spring Planting Time” • 11.5" x 13.5" • Watercolor
Reception • Friday, Dec 5, 2014 • 5 to 7 pm
VENTANA FINE ART 400 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-983-8815 • 800-746-8815 • ventanafineart.com
New Mexico Art League WINTER SCHEDULE OF CLASSES, EXHIBITS AND EVENTS
MONDAYS
THURSDAYS
SATURDAYS
LOCAL COLOR DEMOS
Painting the Figure in Pastel
The Visual Diary: The Essentials for Artists
Painting the Landscape in Pastels: In the Studio and on Location
Flowers in a Winter Still Life in Oils
with Denali Brooke January 12 – March 2 9 AM to 12 PM Splash Ink Painting
with Ming Franz January 12 – February 16 1 PM to 4 PM TUESDAYS
Color and Composition in Watercolor
with Carol Carpenter January 13 – March 3 9:30 AM to 12 Noon
Composing the Contemporary Still Life in Oils
with Cynthia Rowland January 13 – March 3 1 PM to 4 PM
Monthly Critique Group
with Cynthia Rowland January 27, February 24 and March 31 5 PM to 8 PM WEDNESDAYS
Introduction to Drawing and Painting
with Maria Cole January 14 – March 4 9 AM to 12 Noon
Painting the Landscape in Oils
with Waid Griffin January 14 – March 4 1 PM to 4 PM
Open Life Drawing Session
No Instruction Ongoing class 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM
with Vasili Katakis January 15 – March 5 9 AM to 12 Noon
Drawing Plain and Simple: Exploring Different Mediums
with Lea Anderson January 15 – March 5 9 AM to 12 Noon
Clouds and Sky in the Landscape in Oils
with Tom Blazier January 15 – March 5 1 PM to 4 PM
with Iva Morris January 17 – March 7 9 AM to 12 Noon
Techniques of Painting in Acrylics
with Bill Canright January 17 – March 7 9 AM to 12 Noon
Building a Portfolio for Teens
with Iva Morris January 17 – March 7 1 PM to 4 PM
Color and Composition in Watercolor
Drawing and Painting for Children
Construction of the Reclining Figure in Oils
SUNDAYS
FRIDAYS
with Ming Franz Ongoing class 1st and 3rd Sunday of each month 1 PM to 4 PM
with Carol Carpenter January 15 – March 5 1 PM to 3:30 PM
with Cynthia Rowland January 15 – March 5 5 PM to 8 PM
More Techniques in Watercolor: Aquabord
with David Chavez January 16 – March 6 9 AM to 12 Noon
Open Life Drawing Session
No Instruction Ongoing class 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM
Painting the Interior Space in Oils
with Wade Griffin January 16 – March 6 1 PM to 4 PM
with Joan Irey Ongoing class 12:30 PM – 3:30 PM
Chinese Brush Painting in Watercolor
Open Life Drawing Session
No Instruction Ongoing class 1 PM to 4 PM
SPECIAL EVENT
Black & White Gala Preview
March 7 Saturday evening, 6 PM to 9 PM (tickets available after the 1st of the year)
by Cynthia Rowland January 25, Sunday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM The Figure in Pastels
by Denali Brooke February 22, Sunday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM Techniques of Chinese Brush Painting
by Ming Franz March 1, Sunday evening 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM EXHIBITS
Small Works Holiday Show December 4 - 27 Reception: March 14 Saturday, 5 PM to 7:30 PM still life: n., genre of painting or drawing of a collection of objects
January 2 - January 30 Reception: December 13 Saturday, 5 PM to 7:30 PM
Recent Works by Members of the Colored Pencil Society of New Mexico
February 5 - February 25 Reception: February 7 Saturday, 5 PM to 7:30 PM
Recent Works by Members of the Rio Rancho Art Association February 5 - February 25 Reception: February 7 Saturday, 5 PM to 7:30 PM Black & White / An exhibit of black & white drawings and photographs March 10 - April 17 Reception: March 14 Saturday, 5 PM to 7:30 PM
For registration and more detailed information visit newmexicoartleague.org All classes are held at 3409 Juan Tabo NE Albuquerque, NM (505) 293-5034 Gallery hours: 10 AM to 4 PM Tuesday – Saturday
l Schedule of Classes and Workshops at the New Mexico Art League
ondays
mposing the Landscape in Oils
Come celebrate the holidays with your family & friends! Share that cozy feeling with great food, a full bar & warm fireplaces... Happy Holidays & Best Wishes for the New Year from all of us at The Ranch House... Cheers!
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MASTER GARDENER » learn current best practices from top gardening experts » connect with other avid gardeners » share knowledge with the community 16-week Intensive Training: Evening classes start Monday, Feb. 2 at 6pm Morning classes start Tuesday, Feb. 3 at 9am
Apply today at sfmga.org Class size is limited. Registration closes Dec. 31. More information at 505-471-4711.
If you are an individual with a disability who is in need of an auxiliary aid or service, please contact Jacqueline S. Baca at 505-471-4711 by Jan. 15. New Mexico State University is an affirmative action/equal opportunity employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
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KachinaPeak story by GORDON BUNKER
O
nce you allow the mountains into your heart, there’s no turning back. You see them and they call to you, you are inextricably drawn to them. Towering above steep valley slopes forested in fir and spruce, a green so dark it is nearly black, snow covered Kachina Peak tears at the sky. Wind whips tendrils of snow from the ridge line, outcrops of rock peek through the pure white slopes. Watching puffy fair-weather clouds race by the high horizon gives me a moment of vertigo. Jesse Keaveny, chief marketing officer for Taos Ski Valley, is taking me on a back road tour of the area and has pulled the car over at a vantage point. We sit and look at the mountain and we are quiet. The mountain’s presence is, at the moment, beyond comment. Sunlight glints off the new Kachina Peak lift cable, a mere silver thread from this distance. Although he has yet to experience Kachina, Jesse is a skier. We pull away, he winds the car into the next switchback on the rough dirt road and says in a hushed tone and to no one in particular, “It’s so cool. I can’t wait.”
For a more historical perspective, I head over to the Hotel St. Bernard to meet with its founder and owner, Jean Mayer. To walk into the St. B., as it’s affectionately referred to, is to step into a realm of European old world charm and hospitality. Leadership sets the tone and here it couldn’t be more true. Jean is a man who follows, and gives of, his heart. We sit at a table in the quiet dining room furnished with sturdy and warmly patinaed wooden tables and chairs. Hammered copper fondue pots are stacked on a sideboard. I ask Jean: Why Taos? Jean founded the St. B. in 1960. “I came on the invitation of Ernie Blake to start the ski school program,” he says. “I was in charge of the mountain troops ski patrol in Garmisch, Germany, and I got the opportunity to come here to work with Ernie.” Jean beams with enthusiasm as he recounts the story … like it was all happening at this moment. It was “the quality of the skiing I’d heard about more than anything else. I knew there were some people in the ski world, world champions, very good people who were very interested in coming to start the ski school, so that kind of sealed my thoughts and energy.” And Jean’s energy is infectious. He’s one of those people, a joyous soul, in whose presence you can’t help but think everything’s going to be a-ok. He continues, “I thought wow! Must be a good place for these people who are better than me [to be interested]. I want to come here.” He reflects for a moment and adds, “So it was the mountains and the skiing, yes.” Jean tells me he was seeing Taos Ski Valley sliding in recent years into a bit of a slump. With the new ownership, this is changing. “Personally, I am delighted to see the improvements and the Kachina 14
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Photo: Eva Waulkner Hildago
Jesse and I hang out at the base of the mountain in what will be the new Martini Tree Lounge. Given that the mountain will (as of this writing) be opening in two weeks, it’s a beehive of activity. Outside, cement trucks roll past and construction workers are adding finishing touches to a new outdoor patio. A sign prominently displayed at the base of Lift 1 proclaims, “Don’t Panic!” This may be intended more for skiers as they board the lift, but the message right now is of universal appeal. Big changes have been happening at Taos Ski Valley and the crown jewel is the Kachina Peak Lift. “It was a long-time dream of founder Ernie Blake,” says Jesse. “He’d been talking about it for decades. It’s been a project in the works, at least conceptually, for a very long time.” The Kachina slopes, previously accessible only by an hour’s hike in the snow at around 12,000 feet elevation (calling this arduous would be a gross understatement) can now be reached by a five minute lift ride. “We’re already known for being a big and majestic mountain with folks,” says Jesse. “It increases our advanced lift terrain by about 50 percent, and that type of terrain, mostly above tree line, is special.” The new lift will top out at 12,450 feet, and having spent time in high alpine environments, especially in winter, I know they are very special. From a number of perspectives, the lift is an amazing accomplishment. “We’re really proud of the lift going in,” says Jesse. “It’s a big development for us and a big story in the ski industry. This is certainly one of the biggest developments from a mountain operation standpoint in the country.” In concert with a number of other improvements—new and much more efficient snowmaking equipment, for example—Jesse says, “it will position Taos Ski Valley as a true destination and that permeates across the region.” While the new lift is in the spotlight, it’s important to note Taos Ski Valley has plenty of opportunities for non-advanced skiers. Approximately 50 percent of the mountain is rated for those with beginner and intermediate skills.
Photo: Taos Ski Valley Photo courtesy of Bob Buchanan
| Kachina Peak
Photo: Peter Lamont
| Bob Buchanan and his friend TK
Photo: Taos Ski Valley
| Jean Mayer of Hotel St. Bernard
| Taos Ski Valley
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Lift,” he says, brimming with optimism. “It’s renewed energy in Taos Ski Valley. You can feel it, you can sense it.” But what of the skiing, what about skiing Kachina? “Ernie was notorious for liking Hunziker off of the Kachina wall, because it’s so much like in Europe where you ski above timberline, very spectacular, very high in altitude,” says Jean. In a show of modesty he adds, “For me, my favorite slope is very simple, very basic, it’s called Porcupine. One of the special things in Taos is that of course you can ski the very, very steep, but there’s a lot of terrain that is conducive for a skier to be a little bit more artistic in his attitude toward the sport. That I can very much appreciate. Here you have a combination for all skiers. That I like. The art of skiing.” It’s a genuine pleasure talking with Jean. “We are sticking to our guns, the warmth of the mountain lifestyle, not the glitz, something that is true and down to earth … meaningful that way,” he says of his hotel. “That goes with the mountain because when you live with that in mind then you have the same attitude and respect toward the mountain. It carries on. What matters is what you can give to people and what you can share.” It doesn’t get better than this. Families have been coming back to the St. B. now for three generations. To put my finger on the pulse of the skier, someone who comes to Taos Ski Valley just to ski, I call my friend of 26 years, Bob Buchanan. (Remarkable he’s put up with me that long.) Bob’s skied the Tyrolean Alps and a variety of mountains in the Appalachians and Rockies. Countless times over the years, when talking about Taos, I’ve seen Bob with that kid-like gleam in his eye for deep powder tempered by his sense of respect for the mountain. “The first time at Taos was about 1990,” says Bob, who on that occasion was skiing with family. “It was a powder day and we watched the cousins skiing through the trees. We had no idea what we were doing.” A little overwhelmed and intimidated, Bob wouldn’t ski Taos for another ten years. But on the next try, “I remember looking up at the top of Kachina and saying to my buddy, Junior, ‘Boy if I could do that, that would be the best thing ever!’ The last day of skiing, Junior said, ‘Ok, come on.’ Junior, by the way, is an expert-plus-plus skier. We hiked to the top of Kachina and we skied it and what a thrill! I was hooked. That changed skiing for me right there.” Bob and his family have come back to Taos every winter since, an ongoing love affair with the place and the mountain. What separates Taos Ski Valley from other ski areas for Bob is “the oldEurope feeling of the place, especially the St. Bernard. That’s classic. And the rough and ready of the place.” Bob acknowledges accepting the mountain on its terms, not the other way around, saying, “If you can ski it, great, but if you can’t, then don’t. You have to know your limitations.” When the conversation shifts to the new lift, he says: “I’m all for it. It’s good for people coming from out of the area and lower elevations. Kachina is almost undeliverable for them without it.” By the first of the new year, he’ll be in Taos. I ask him about skiing Kachina and he takes off. “Well this is the exciting part!” I can tell the guy is salivating. “The main slope is Main Street. Just about any good intermediate skier can ski it. But once you get off Main Street, it’s a whole different ball of wax. I’m looking forward to getting off into the little doglegs into the rocks and skiing the top of Hunziker, also to traversing over and into some of the K Chutes. I’m not sure they’re going to allow us to do that but it’s going to be an interesting traverse.” Ski until you drop? I ask. “That’s what we usually do!” says Bob.
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For mountain stats, snow reports and general information go to skitaos.org. For information on the St. Bernard go to stbernardtaos.com. Can’t get enough of winter in New Mexico? Head to www.localflavormagazine.com for stories on camping, ice climbing, snow shoeing and more. 16
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A place to learn, to imagine, to think and to draw your own conclusions.
See planes designed for oversized luggage.
601 Eubank Blvd SE • Albuquerque, NM (505) 245-2137 • Open Daily • 9 AM to 5 PM
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Come home to modern comfort food, craft beers, and an eclectic wine list.
730 St. Michael’s Drive 505-471-0440 • loyalhoundpub.com
Come join us for Executive Chef Cristian Pontiggia’s take on classic & contemporary Italian cuisine. Private dining room & banquet space available. Book your holiday party now. New winter menu available in January.
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Italian Single Vineyards Wine Dinner We'll take you through the vineyards of Italy! Enjoy exquisite wines balanced perfectly with Chef's innovative 5-course menu. Only $59++ per person. Thursday, July 17th, 6:30pm.
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2014
Top Ten
DISHES OF SANTA FE stor y by JOHN VOLLERTSEN photos by KITTY LEAKEN
Fire & Hops Green Chile Poutine Anyone (like me) who was worried that the Santa Fe scene had become a big yawn for the young and trendy need only pop over to Chef Joel Coleman’s Fire & Hops to see that the millennials have really embraced the gastro pub concept. I was impressed to see hipsters of all ages—21 to 81—noshing on the shareable small and medium plates of eclectic dishes, including the yummy Green Chile Poutine, which I now realize I’ve ordered every time I’ve visited the restaurant—over a half dozen times. It was originally a French Canadian bar snack, and what could be more delicious (and more perfect for beer and wine) than fries tossed with cheese curd, bacon bits and fiery green chile gravy? You’ll be surprised how nicely the gooey curd pairs with the crunch of the salty bacon! Like Fire & Hops, it’s got it all going on.
Photo: Gaelen Casey
A review I read recently in the New Yorker about a new Slavic restaurant in Brooklyn ended with a simple statement: “wear sweatpants.” It made me chuckle | Chef Johnny Vee as I had to admit to myself that the phrase was an apt metaphor for my writing in Local Flavor this year on the Santa Fe food scene. With so many fantastic restaurants and so much culinary talent to cover, no wonder I found myself loosening my belt a notch or two.
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Chef Joel Coleman
Joseph’s
Santa Fe is truly a foodie town; it comes as no surprise that we’re rated in the top ten of Conde Nast’s Reader’s Choice Award for 2014. I think anyone would agree that all of our dedicated chefs and hospitality professionals deserve the praise. But I was asked to choose my ten favorite dishes. So, what makes a Top Ten dish in my mind? Certainly flavor, first and foremost, with creativity and dish execution also being important factors. The atmosphere of the restaurant and the caliber of the servers bear merit as well, although I believe gobbling up a messy burger on a picnic table by the roadside with sauce running down your chin can win just as much kudos as a fine dining experience, the likes of Geronimo or Georgia—well, almost. From pickles to poutine, it was a delicious year. I remember last year, after my Top Ten List of 2013 came out, a few readers told me that they were going to try each of my celebrated dishes to see if they agreed with my votes. With the New Year upon us, I think that’s a great idea … just don’t forget the sweatpants!
Little Duck Dinner
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Chef Joseph Wrede
I had a big crush on Chef Joseph Wrede’s Crispy Duck Salt-Cured Confit style entrée, a meal I also ordered multiple times this past summer. In the 11th hour, just prior to me writing this piece, Joe called to say he was changing the dish out for a new incarnation that, this time, would be an appetizer. He invited me in to see if it too was a winner and, oh yeah, The Little Duck Dinner scores. In this version, the delicious confit is pulled off the bone and pressed into a slab that is cubed into a duck “pop,” glazed and sauced with sweet corn and saffron puree and then scattered with dehydrated strawberries and candied walnuts. So delish. If you think it’s impossible to overdose on the tasty bird, try the tender Sous Vide Breast main course, Duck Fat Fries side and Duck Fat Ice Cream served alongside an inside-out German Chocolate Cake. Joe’s cooking is always something to quack about!
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Arroyo Vino Ebelskiver with Foie Gras I was crestfallen to hear of Chef Mark Connell’s exit from Arroyo Vino. This fall he served me one of my most memorable meals— perfect from start to finish—that included an Ebelskiver stuffed with Mushroom Duxelles alongside a Pan Seared Wagyu Flat Iron Steak with Foie Gras Hollandaise and Red Wine Shallot Purée. The ebelskiver is a beloved Danish sphere-shaped pancake that is traditionally filled with apples or jam. To turn sweet into savory was an absolute inspiration on the part of Connell; it was the most provocative dish I tasted all year. It’s staying on the menu with Connell’s sous chef Colin Shane manning the stoves now. Shane has worked with some talented mentors, including Martin Rios, and he has a great team beside him. Arroyo Vino is such a terrific addition to the Las Campanas dining scene, I wish them a smooth transition.
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Chefs Zach Caraway, Colin Shane and Andrew Rios
Bang Bite Trailer Deluxe Burger The “Who has the Best Burger” war really heated up this year, but Bang Bite is my go-to place—partially due to its proximity to my house (a mere 800 yards from my front door), but also because I love Chef Enrique Guerrero’s over-the-top approach to whatever he does. Witness the Trailer Deluxe Burger: an eight-ounce patty topped with bacon, Virginia ham, fried onions strings, cheddar, barbecue sauce and chipotle aioli. You will need two hands to hold it and low cholesterol to enjoy it guilt-free. For a surcharge you can add a chile maple bacon jam (you’re killing me) and just tell your critics—“Hey, I don’t eat it every day.”
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Chef Enriquez Guerrero
Izanami Assorted House-Made Pickles Sometimes it’s the simple things that show off a chef ’s skill: a perfect roast chicken or flawless fries or, in the case of Izanami’s new chef David Padberg, Assorted House-Made Pickles. They made my palate stand up and say, “Wow.” Padberg transforms all kinds of ingredients—cucumbers, beets, butternut squash, cabbage, radish and more—into a medley of sweet, hot, salty and sour flavors, all crunchy and all delicious pickles. It’s one of the prettiest presentations in town in one of the prettiest settings. I can’t wait to return and sample Padberg’s new menu this winter.
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Chef David Padberg
Agave Lounge
Three Sliders
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Chef Anthony Smith
It can be a challenge to know where to meet friends for a “civilized” drink and a bite pre or post-theater downtown, so I’ve made the Agave Lounge at the Eldorado Hotel my go-to. Chef Anthony Smith’s Sliders come in three renditions—Lobster, Kobe Beef and Crab with Zingy Remoulade. They’re a steal at $4 to $5 dollars apiece. They’re small enough to be a snack, but the quality of the ingredients and the deliciousness factor make them worthy of entrée status. The lobster and crab versions boast plump chunks of the tasty crustaceans, while the burger is impressively moist given its diminutive size. Yum! Actually, the whole bar menu is extraordinary and now there’s a sushi and raw bar added to the mix. I like that the seats are spacious and roomy for us big boys and that The Old House is next door should dinner seem like a good idea. And there’s a hotel upstairs should “get a room” come to mind.
L’Olivier Grass-Fed Rosemary Braised Beef Short Ribs Maybe it’s the accompanying Green Chile-Jack Cheese Mashed Potatoes that had me at the first bite, but at L’Olivier Chef Xavier Grenet’s GrassFed Rosemary Braised Beef Short Ribs is the epitome of French comfort food and a dish I’ll be savoring again this winter. Start with the Roast Butternut Squash Soup with Foie Gras and finish with the classic Tarte Tatin for the perfect meal Française. With gracious wife and manager Nathalie running the floor and expert bistro service, I love L’Olivier for its unpretentious charms. C’est bon.
| Chef Xavier Grenet
La Choza Chile Relleno, Carne Adovado,Tamale Combo Whenever my friend Billy visits Santa Fe from the East Coast his first meal MUST be at La Choza. In the summer we sit on the comfy patio and during the winter we nestle down in the front dining room and pace ourselves with the bracing limey margaritas, gobble up a bowl of Queso with Chips and then each choose our own combo plate. Invariably mine is the Combo Plate that features Chile Relleno, Pork Carne Adovado and a Vegetarian Tamale (served Christmas, please)—a true celebration of the New Mexico flavors I love dearest. I let the tourists tackle The Shed (owned by the same wonderful family), but for me La Choza is my Norteño favorite. Book ahead; I’m not alone.
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Chef Jaime Chaparro
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Georgia Swine and Czar–Baked Potato with Tobiko When I sent Chef Brett Sparman from Georgia a message that I wanted to add his Swine and Czar-Baked Potato with Sour Cream, Crispy Pancetta, Green Onion and Tobiko to my Top Ten list he messaged me back, “Dude! The baked potato? You’re killing me man, I know it’s good … but it’s a baked potato.” I assured him I would wax lyrical about the whole meal I had (Tender Grilled Quail, Delicate Pan Roasted Trout, hearty and tasty Cassoulet and fabulous Thymeinfused Stone Fruit Tart), but still congratulate him for his creative spin on the humble potato. The fat baker spud is gussied up with sour cream, crispy pancetta and a dollop of Tobiko caviar. Sparman is a very skilled chef and I like that he also knows how to treat a potato with aplomb. The handsome dining room is elegant enough to get dressed up for but comfortable enough to dress casual—truly the trend of Santa Fe dining in 2014.
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Chef Brett Sparman
Geronimo Wild Mushroom and Sherry Bisque This list is not in order of preference but I suppose, if it were, Geronimo would have to be at the top. Perhaps the last moniker for great dining is that of consistency and, with that, Geronimo is certainly at the peak. In all the years I’ve dined here, I have never (and I mean never!) had a meal that is anything less than brilliant. That’s quite a claim considering the caliber of Santa Fe dining, and I think the credit goes to Chef Eric DiStefano, Chris Harvey, Quinn Stephenson and the entire staff. The whole menu scores (who can pass up the Elk Tenderloin?), but DiStefano’s Wild Mushroom and Sherry Bisque, offered on the vegetarian prix-fix menu, exemplifies the wildly talented chef ’s skill; he succeeded marvelously in elevating a bowl of soup to something truly special. As with all the service here, how the dish is presented adds to the theater of Geronimo dining. Poured tableside into a warm bowl stacked with asparagus tips, shitake and oyster mushrooms and napped with a kick of sherry, the silky soup is nothing short of luxurious. I am always seduced.
Santa Fe:
Did your favorite dish miss our list? We want to hear about it! Email the name of your favorite Santa Fe dish (pictures encouraged!) for a chance to be featured in our February issue. Email us at lily@localflavormagazine.com and give a little love to your favorite chef!
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Chef Eric DiStefano
Our friendly staff is here to help you select the perfect Holiday gifts of Wine, Spirits and Beer!
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W I N E BI S T R O
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Come TO Cook. COME TO EAT. COME To SHOP.
Gifts for Foodies W
ith the holidays just around the corner, it’s time to start thinking about gifts for your loved ones and, more specifically, for the foodies on your list. This year, give the aspiring chefs in your life something new to chew on: a book that encourages them to develop their culinary skills, explore authentic New Mexican cuisine and, most importantly, share a meal with their family and friends. Here are ten of our favorite cookbooks by local authors that celebrate the flavors of New Mexico and beyond. Remember the Local Flavor war cry! Think local. Buy local. Stay local. stor y by LILY CARBONE
Celebrating 25 years!
The school features hands-on and demonstration classes taught by some of Santa Fe’s best chefs and a market filled with your favorite New Mexican products and foods. Our beautiful new space and outdoor patio are perfect for your special events, and our signature restaurant walking tours are your entrée to the flavors of Santa Fe. 125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe (at the corner of Guadalupe and Johnson) 800.982.4688 | 505.983.4511 santafeschoolofcooking.com
Dishing Up New Mexico Dave DeWitt
“There is no better guide to the Land of Enchantment than Dave DeWitt, who captures the spice and color of this beautiful region so well. A lively, well-researched book.” – Jennifer Trainer Thompson, author of Hot Sauce!
LOOK FOR OUR NEW COOKBOOK
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Espana: Exploring the Flavors of Spain
The Chile Chronicles Carmella Padilla
James Campbell Caruso
“The Chile Chronicles brings to life the chile culture of New Mexico—its history, its traditions, its people. This is one of the best books on chile that I have ever read. A must-read for chile lovers.” – Mark Miller, Owner/ Creator/Chef, Coyote Cafe, Santa Fe
Vegetable Literacy
“This beautifully photographed collection entails tapas (small bites) of meat, seafood and vegetables; scrumptious soups; hearty main dishes; and delectable desserts, all using fresh produce, the finest cheese and meat products, and special spices.” – Gibbs Smith Publishers
Cooking with Chef Johnny Vee
Deborah Madison
“There are few people equipped with the curiosity, skill, and eye for observation required to construct a volume of this size and scope—and Deborah does it masterfully. Vegetable Literacy will shift the way both home and professional cooks think about the relationship between ingredients, and vegetables in particular.” – Heidi Swanson, author of Super Natural Every Day
John Vollertsen
“Only buy this book if you want excellently conceived and delicious recipes delivered with pizzazz and that sparkling perfect innovative twist.” – Katharine Kagel, author of Cooking with Cafe Pasqual’s
Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook: The Traditional Cooking of New Mexico
Foods of the Southwest Indian Nations
Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison “[This book] offers a beautiful glimpse into the still-vibrant cuisine of New Mexico. With the blending of centuries-old Spanish culture with native and modern American, a unique and delicious cuisine has emerged.” – Rick Bayless, author and host of PBS’s “Mexico: One Plate at a Time”
Lois Ellen Frank
“A wonderful introduction to America’s oldest cuisine.” – Phoenix Magazine “One of the most stunning books of the year.” – Austin American Statesman
Storied Recipes
The Raaga Cookbook — Modern Indian Cuisine
SOMOS (Society of the Muse of the Southwest)
Pramod “Paddy” Rawal
“Cooking is close to magic, and Storied Recipes evokes adventure and culinary surprise through narrative. These recipes are diverse, funky, historical, and sophisticated. Keep this book by your bedside, take it into your kitchen and enjoy the journey to near and faraway places.” – Natalie Goldberg, author of Writing Down the Bones
“The recipes in this book are not the usual restaurant fare, where it is not unusual to sacrifice the palate to please the eye. The delicacies, though exotic, are easy-to-make and a veritable home cook’s delight.” - Paddy Rawal
Simply Simpatico
Junior League of Albuquerque “Captures the charm and cuisine of New Mexico through a collection of traditional and Southwestern recipes.” – JLA
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Celebrating the Art of the Cruise • “Lowrider Only” Parking
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FARM SHOP HANDCRAFTED HOLIDAY GIFTS
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Santa Fe
stor y by MELYSSA HOLIK photo by STEPHEN LANG
School of Cooking
| Nicole Ammerman and Susan Curtis
T
he holidays are nearly upon us, and with them comes a season of quiet reflection and joyful peace, when people gather together to celebrate giving, gratitude and goodwill. For Santa Fe School of Cooking founder Susan Curtis and Director of Operations Nicole Ammerman, the holiday season also represents the combination of their most cherished values: food and family.
The mother-daughter pair shares a passion for the culinary arts and a mission to celebrate the food and traditions of New Mexico. As partners at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, they educate Santa Fe visitors about local culture, using food as a medium. For the past 20 years, they’ve grown their business from a small seed of an idea and watched as it blossomed into the thriving school it is today. They come from a close family whose connection has always been nourished by family dinners; food is how they connect to their customers, their community and each other. As a child, Susan grew up on a ranch. She remembers an idyllic pastoral life, full of home-grown food straight from the garden. “All the food came from the land,” she says. “We had black angus cattle and we aged them in the meat cellar. We had cheese, pigs, chickens, and then a huge garden. We had wonderful home-cooked meals.” These early experiences instilled in her a love for—and understanding of—food and what goes into creating it. Food always played a big role in family life and 28
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in creating a sense of community. “Friends would stop in because they always knew they were welcome,” she remembers, “and we would have very big dinners.” As an adult, Susan continued the tradition of wholesome cooking with her children. “Mom always had good, home-cooked meals for us,” Nicole reminisces. “That was sort of our signature thing as a family. Even when we were teenagers, we always sat down and had dinner together.” Susan echoes this sentiment, saying, “We always ate together, and anyone who didn’t have family around came to our house.” During the holidays, food took on an even greater significance. The family would hold large dinners and often cooked the meals together. As is their custom, they would welcome friends and those without family to join them. Nicole recalls, “Growing up, anybody that didn’t have a family around came to our house, we always had large gatherings for the holidays and Thanksgiving.” Susan remembers, “I was never sure how many people would be coming for the holidays because their friends would bring friends, and we have always done that.” Back then, though, Susan and Nicole never imagined they’d be channeling their love of food into a business, let alone be working together. In fact, Susan didn’t start Santa Fe School of Cooking until 1989, after Nicole had gone off to college. “It wasn’t preordained,” Susan admits. “We hadn’t thought about it.” But after the school had been open for five or six years, everything lined up and circumstances led the pair to where they are today. Still, before they took the plunge, they carefully considered the effect it would have on them. “We didn’t want to ruin our relationship and so were very thoughtful and cautious,” Susan says. Nicole affirms, “We have always
“The business is fun. It really is a fun business. We nurture the business as if it’s a living being, as if it’s part of our family. It is that tender loving care that has made it successful.”
liked each other and wanted to make sure we were thoughtful about the process. So my mom, my dad, my sister and I all discussed it well before. We were cautious about it.” As it turns out, though, working together has only brought them closer. When they had to make the transition to a new building in 2012, it was a difficult time for the business and a stressful time for both of them. Their relationship was tested as they worked to keep the business going while undertaking a renovation project and a major change in venue. “It took us a while after the move to get our feet on the ground. The learning curve was steep,” Nicole says. In the end, though, they rose to the challenge and got through it together. They are thrilled with the new location. Nicole says, “We feel like it was here waiting for us. We were fortunate to have the opportunity, and we made it! Now we have another opportunity to see what we can do next.” Overwhelmingly, though, working as a mother-daughter team has brought far more benefits than difficulties for Susan and Nicole. “My mom and I have a great relationship,” Nicole effuses. “We complement each other well. I like the hustle and bustle and being out on the sales floor. I’m really effective when things are chaotic and Susan is better at working from home. Susan directs the big ship and I handle the day-to-day operations.” When asked what she’s learned from her mom, Nicole answers proudly, “My mom is a great business woman. You always know where you stand with her, and she will not sugar coat anything.
She’s kind and warm, but will speak her mind and I think that’s a great quality in business. I learned that from her.” Also, they are able to support each other in ways that only family can. “We have total trust in each other,” Susan says. Nicole concurs, adding, “We can rely on each other. There’s no tiptoeing around, you say exactly what you think, it’s totally honest and real.” Certainly, the closeness, trust and honesty that comes from familial bonds can be a huge benefit in business. But without a doubt, for both of them, the best part of working together is how much fun they have. “We love what we do,” Nicole says enthusiastically, “It’s fun to come to work everyday. It’s a blast! I love coming to work every day.” Susan also loves the work they do, saying, “The business is fun. It really is a fun business. We nurture the business as if it’s a living being, as if it’s part of our family. It is that tender loving care that has made it successful.” Their love and enthusiasm seems to be boundless, overflowing onto others as Susan and Nicole welcome more and more people into the School’s close circle. Their commitment to building strong relationships extends beyond the bounds of ancestry, encompassing customers, farmers and the community. The chefs, staff and even the farmers have become a part of the Santa Fe School of Cooking family. They’ve been in business with several of their agricultural partners for the entire 25 years they’ve been open. Their employees are a loyal and close-knit crew, with many staying on with the school for years. “We’ve both become very good at finding the right people to work here,” Nicole says, “and it makes life so much easier when we find people that become part of our family, really, when they work here.” Customers respond to their enthusiasm and warmth, too. They form relationships not only to the school, but with each other. As Susan points out, A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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“The socializing aspect of eating around the table—that happens at the cooking school. A lot of people become very good friends. Romances have even started here, and it’s great because the cooking school is popular with all types of people. It’s quite affordable, really, so you get a wide variety of people sharing their meal and their time together.” Nicole concurs, adding, “Obviously food is important to us and not just because we like to eat, but also because it brings people together and the business allows us to bring people together.” Susan sums it up: “The cooking school is an extension of the family. The customers and a lot of the staff just become part of this family.” For 25 years, Santa Fe School of Cooking has shared their passion for Santa Fe’s unique food heritage with people from around the world. For 20 of those years, mother and daughter have been side by side, passing the traditions of New Mexican cuisine to this and future generations. It’s taken a lot of hard work, but Susan and Nicole are harvesting the fruits of their labor and enjoying some well-earned success. At the heart of their success is exactly that: heart. Family—in all its forms—is central to their lives and to their business. And just as food sustains a family, their commitment to family sustains their school. Santa Fe School of Cooking celebrates its 25th year in business this year. To commemorate this important milestone, it has just published a new cookbook, “Celebrating the Foods of New Mexico.” They are located at 125 North Guadalupe in Santa Fe. 505.983.4511. santafeschoolofcooking.com.
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534C 1807C
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Open all day everyday except Christmas Rodeo Rd at Zia 505-471-3800 | joesdining.com
Locally-Sourced, European-Influenced, and Utterly Delicious American Comfort Food
Fresh for Less
Fine Southwestern & French Cuisine
We roast chiles all year round!
Fresh ristras are available and make great gifts!
At the southeast intersection of St Francis & Cerrillos across from Susan’s Open 7 Days a Week Mon-Sat 8:30-7 • Sun 8:30-6 505-995-9632
The best prices for fresh produce in town!
RESTAURANT 229 Galisteo Street • Santa Fe • 505-989-1919 • loliviersantafe.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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Winter
on Canvas stor y by LILY CARBONE
A
nyone who has spent Christmas in the Land of Enchantment knows how beautiful winter in New Mexico truly is. Farolitos line our streets and buildings, offering a warm glow to the midnight blue of our night skies, while the snow makes itself at home on mountaintops and adobe walls. There are other perspectives from which to view the season, however, and this year we encourage you to do so. Experience winter in the Land of Enchantment through the eyes of artists who translate to canvas those magical elements that only they see. This year, support your local artists and galleries—give the gift of art.
Cynthia Rowland, “Sur la Pointe,” 20 x 16 in., oil on canvas, $2,250 New Mexico Art League
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Amy Ditto, “Solace,” 20 x 30 in., canvas, $425 The Albuquerque Photographers’ Gallery
Clarence Medina, “Pilar,” 20 x 20 in., oil on board, $2,400 Wilder Nightingale Fine Art
Lee McVey, “Snow Shadows,” 12 x 16 in., pastel, $925 Anita Blythe Fine Art
Tom Noble, “El Prado Morning,” 12 x 12 in., watercolor, $1,450 Ventana Fine Art Denise Weaver Ross, “Nine Stars of a Swan Song,” 40 x 26 in., mixed media on paper, $1,200 (unframed), $1,500 (framed) The Old School House Gallery
Chris Morel, “La Junta Bend,” 16 x 20 in., oil on canvas, $3,800 Nedra Matteucci Galleries
David Vega Chavez, “Cerca de Las Cruces, N.M.,” watercolor on Aquabord, $650 New Mexico Art League A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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A unique Blend of Flavor & History is Closer Than you Think!
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The Palace Restaurant & Saloon 505 428 0690
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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The Finest Holiday Meats are at Keller’s!
Farm Fresh Natural Gourmet Meats! New Mexico’s largest selection of fresh, smoked & roasted meats is at Keller’s! Beef, Lamb, Turkey, Chicken, TurDuckHen, Buffalo, Seafood, Pork, Suckling Pigs, Veal, Goat, Fancy Poultry and Exotic Meats... Turkey, Roast Beef or Ham Dinners Complete with Trimmings Ready to Heat and Serve! Since 1946 the Keller family has been committed to providing you with the finest quality foods available! Celebrating 67 Years
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advertiser 505.988.7560 ads@localflavormagazine.com 36
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All in the Family
story by ANDREA FEUCHT photos by STEPHEN LANG
| Terry, Pat and Evan Keene
E
van and Gavin Keene, brothers age 30 and 26 respectively, have been in the Albuquerque restaurant business since they were old enough to bus tables. They’re mellow and recognize that they have a lot going for them in their gigs at Farina Alto and Farina Pizzeria—Evan is part owner of Alto and Gavin cooks on the line at the pizzeria in East Downtown. All of this was something they grew into as a natural path through their family. You see, their parents are well known in this town—even if you haven’t heard their names, you know their footprints: locally loved spots like Portobello, Bien Shur, ReBar, and, let’s not forget, Artichoke Cafe.
Those parents are Terry and Pat Keene. Terry and Pat’s history bounces around the United States a bit, from their start with an Albuquerque restaurant called the Montana Mining Company to an El Paso transfer, then back to Albuquerque for a stint at Steak & Ale. And there, Terry says, is where he realized the corporate restaurant business was not where he wanted to be. Next up for the couple was Pat’s culinary training in New York City and then their first restaurant in New Jersey. As Terry tells me all this, Evan is sitting nearby, making notes on paperwork for the upcoming payroll with a small Parker pen, the kind I used to have and appreciated but lost after many years, the kind of pen that runs circles around the myriad businessname pens in my daily rotation. I mention this to him and he gestures at Terry, who also has one clipped in his shirt pocket. Quality, in some ways, is hereditary. So too, is the restaurant trade. Evan started out in his folks’ restaurant business as a dishwasher around age 13 and Gavin began bussing tables around 14. It was far from a bad deal—they made money through tip-sharing and were only called in when there was a last-minute shortage in the kitchen. They’ve spent 90 percent of their working life in restaurants.
| Bruschetta A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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All in the Family
Terry and Pat bought the Artichoke Cafe after it had been closed for a year and they kept the fine dining theme going. The menu was created by Pat, using her new skills from culinary school and its curriculum of white-tablecloth fine dining. They opened for dinner and haven’t looked back since then—it’s the longest running staple in their business lives. In 1998, they opened Portobello on San Mateo, then after a few years they had the opportunity to open Bien Shur at Sandia Casino and jumped at the chance. It took many long days. “I’ve never done anything that was so hard in my life,” says Terry. After a year, things seemed to be coming together and the work was paying off. Evan was by this point bar-backing and loved it—making great tips and bonding with the rest of the staff. After a few years, Sandia decided to take back control and the Keenes were out. ReBar was the next project; it was an expensive remodel and didn’t make money, so that was a learning experience project rather than a slam-dunk. After a year they sold it and Terry focused his efforts back on Artichoke and began contemplating what to do with some additional Central Avenue properties that they owned with tenants they couldn’t rely on. Finally, Pat decided they should do their own pizza joint and they offered the opportunity to Stewart Dorris, Artichoke’s sommelier, and Richard Winers, the chef. Both were all in and ready to make Farina a go. Terry had eaten at the fabulous Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix and Mozza in Los Angeles and modeled Farina’s offerings after the latter—something I’d noticed when I dined at Mozza after Farina and observed the identical butterscotch budino. Terry says, “Oh, it’s totally Mozza!” When the first Farina opened, Evan was co-owner. He was also working at Toad Road, the Nob Hill clothing shop, and coming to realize that retail wasn’t quite his thing. In late 2010, he started bartending at Farina, working under Stewart—his first experience in restaurants not working directly under his parents. This was a nice change for Evan, who says, “It was some of the best years of my life. Working for Stew was amazing. The amazing people, the customers were great, even the neighborhood was fantastic.” Being removed from the direct family management was, as Evan says, “great.” It was a relief and a change of pace and Evan blossomed at Farina. He and his brother were being groomed for bigger roles in Farina Alto—if they were on board, of course. Before Farina Alto opened, it was just a speculation, says Evan. “I’d always known my dad was going to open another Farina, never knew when, never knew where, never knew what my role would be…” Between the two brothers, they’ve figured out their talents. Evan is the people-person and adores his role at Alto, | Pat Keene 38
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| Evan Keene
while Gavin prefers to work behind the scenes. Gavin loves putting his work on display for customers to appreciate and found cooking to be the perfect fit. It’s similar to his other love, music. Gavin has been a drummer for many years and would like to make that a life for himself in the future. Stage performance is not so different from being a chef, he says. “There is artistry in both and immediate feedback, but also a separation from the audience.” Now, after years with the original Farina and the new-ish Farina Alto, Terry says, “I’m 63 years old, and Pat and I would like to slow down a little bit. There are a lot of sleepless nights, still. I wake up and I just worry in the middle of the night, in a cold sweat, about paying bills, about opening a new bar, about if payroll is too high…” Those nights, he can’t wait for daylight to come, because then he knows things will be fine. He goes back to work. “Get up, show up and shut up and get to work,” says Terry, summing up his whole career and life thus far. As of November, Farina Alto has a full liquor license. Everyone is excited to promote a cocktail program (and daily 3 to 6 p.m. happy hour) that draws from a huge list of local spirits and as many organic bottles as possible, at least one in each category. They do as many of the mixers as possible from scratch and organic. I’m excited by their commitment to organic ingredients across the board, the cocktail program is just recent icing on the cake. Moving toward local, organic ingredients is how the whole family sees the recent past—and future—of restaurants in Albuquerque. It’s far from the default, but traction is being made and hearts are being won, and that is a trend that will continue to grow as customers vote with their dollars and restaurateurs lead the front lines in making changes even before some of their customers know what to ask for. On the flip side, what are the things that are slow to change and frustrating? Terry and Evan agree it’s the dominance of chains—from their dubious ingredient sourcing to their lack of value for the consumer. It is clear that a person can go to any chain restaurant and order an entree for $12 (or, for that matter, drop $8 to $10 on fast food) and receive something full of ingredients from unknown sources with additives and flavor enhancers galore. Alternatively, that same consumer could go to a place like Farina and spend the same amount of money and be supporting not only a locallyowned business but also farmers and the whole local supply chain. Gavin is less vociferous on this point but still a big fan of any of the locally established eateries, places like El Patio or Zinc or small family Mexican joints. All of them recognize that family owned is a value to be supported. Evan is dairy and gluten intolerant, so he has always had to think carefully and deliberately about what to eat. When asked about how he arrived at his practical cooking philosophy, he says, “Something in my brain just decided that doing it this way was the only way. I’ve always been very emotionally connected to things like this, truly caring about the animals and what it takes to raise them, to bring them to our plate. A package of bacon is not just delicious salty pieces of protein—it was once a living thing.” He credits extended family, too, for exposing him to really great food when younger, as well as the ideas of caring for the health of the earth and the bigger picture issues. Evan says he is most proud of bringing organic ingredients to the menu at both Farina locations. He positively glows when he announces that there is not a single conventional item from the “dirty dozen” list on the Farina menus. That’s a big deal, and he knows it. What I like about the family’s philosophy as business owners is the pragmatism, saving money by buying conventional ingredients where they are accepted as low-risk, the socalled “clean 13.” Ultimately, it takes this kind of restaurateur to push the boundaries just enough, while still making money to allow the change to happen. And when you start from within a nurturing family environment— especially when asked to wash dishes at 13 or bus tables at 14—those values seem to flow naturally.
Artichoke Café 424 Central Avenue SE Alb. 505.243.0200. artichokecafe.com. Farina Pizzeria 510 Central Avenue SE Alb. 505.243.0130. farinapizzeria.com. Farina Alto 10721 Montgomery Boulevard NE Alb. 505.298.0035. farinaalto.com.
Competitive Prices S t o pLargest I n Selections & Stock Up Friendly Staff for all of your holiday celebrations Something for every Taste Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Wine Manager on Duty We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer
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136 Types of Rum
Est. 1981
Established 1981
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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Top Ten
Gift certificates available for holiday gift giving! See our website for a list of special dinners & reservations.
8917 4th St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
Albuquerque’s
Dishes of 2014
I
have a dear friend in Chicago who is infamous for his “top ten” lists. Every trip, outing, or life event gets its own top ten. He posts them on Facebook with his typical “in no particular order, except number one” verbiage. I always read them, usually laugh, and frequently wish I had been a part of them. When I travel somewhere, I will send him a quick message asking for his top ten. I have discovered some of my
favorite restaurants and bars that way. Well, now it’s our turn, Albuquerque. We have culture, we have art, we have nightlife, and we have an incredible culinary community that has finally begun to receive the recognition deserved. So without further ado … I present to you, my Top Ten Dishes of Albuquerque for 2014. In no particular order, except number one …
Enjoy New Mexican favorites and a specialty margarita while you take in the gorgeous scenery! Our patio is perfect for an intimate night out or a big family gathering!
Photo: Eric Williams
Albuquerque’s best patio experience!
hotelabq.com/albuquerque-restaurants For information on events and special offers visit: facebook.com/GardunosAtOldTown
800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW Albuquerque, New Mexico 87104 (505) 222-8766
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| Kate Gerwin
s t o r y b y K AT E G E R W I N photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
Mary & Tito’s Red Chile Mary & Tito’s is a top ten MUST for Albuquerque. So what’s my favorite dish there? Well quite honestly, anything with their red chile. I can admit the rest is just a means of getting more red chile in my mouth.
|
Chef Patricio Arguello
Two Fools Tavern Fish ’n Chips |
Chef/Owner Nellie Bauer
Jennifer James 101 Sautéed Black Cod, Aromatic Black Lentils, Caramelized Winter Squash and Sage Brown Butter Whenever I am asked what my favorite restaurant in Albuquerque is, the answer flows without hesitation from my lips … Jennifer James 101. I don’t have to think about it. It’s almost like asking my name. This inconspicuous restaurant nestled in a strip mall off San Mateo hardly seems like a destination for culinary greatness, but if you don’t believe me, perhaps Chef James’ FIVE James Beard Award nominations (the culinary equivalent of the Academy Awards) for Best Chef in the Southwest will persuade you. I am a seafood fanatic, which can be a challenge in our landlocked state; however, Jennifer James has tackled the task with finesse. “When it comes to fish, we either use a company out of Portland, Oregon, or a company out of Brooklyn, New York. Both are able to Fedex overnight to us, fish that is in the ocean today and on plates tomorrow.” Yep, fresh, not frozen seafood, right here in the desert. And it’s no joke. Their Sautéed Black Cod is most certainly my favorite, served with aromatic black lentils, roasted delicata squash, sage brown butter and fresh lime. Jennifer James 101 doesn’t rely on indefinite numbers of ingredients or fancy gimmicks to tickle your taste buds. Instead it’s all about the quality and simplicity of the products themselves and it certainly shows with one bite of delicate flaky fish that melts in your mouth like butter.
It’s pretty well known that the best place for Fish ’n Chips in Albuquerque is Two Fools Tavern in Nob Hill. And who am I to disagree with the masses, especially when they are right. Two Fools is as close as you’re going to get to an authentic pub experience in the Duke City. They make REAL Irish coffees (no Bailey’s and fresh whipped cream), host the largest selection of whiskies in New Mexico and, of course, serve flaky golden brown haddock fish ’n chips. They are so legitimate that I wouldn’t dare order an “Irish Car Bomb” there, just as I would be a fool (pun intended) to order that American concoction in Ireland without expecting a tongue lashing at the very least.
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Kitchen Manager/Chef James Alguire A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Top Ten Dishes of 2014
Albuquerque
Vinaigrette Eat Your Peas I never liked peas. It’s a silly childhood thing from a time I had to sit at a dinner table and finish my plate. I sat there for hours stubbornly thinking my mom would give up and let me go to bed. She didn’t. So when I saw the Eat Your Peas salad on the menu at Vinaigrette, there was no doubt that would be the last thing I ordered. But my friend Elizabeth loves peas. And of course, that is what she ordered. Fresh baby lettuce and sweet green peas, crunchy bacon shards, white mushroom sauce and Asiago cheese came piled high on her plate. She practically inhaled it. She offered me a bite, I politely declined. But she kept making little oohs and mmm noises the whole time. So finally I gave in. I tried the peas. And I devoured them. I ate her peas, I ordered more peas and every time I go to Old Town I make a point to stop and eat more peas. One little salad changed my life. I love peas.
Holy Cow The Holy Cow Burger
|
Cook Ricardo Aranda
The All-American burger. We grow up eating them and loving them. Unfortunately synonymous with fast food, the burger can often be an overlooked area of culinary expertise. But not at Holy Cow in east downtown Albuquerque. The local New Mexico beef is grass fed, hormone free and double ground. The buns are baked fresh and the toppings are plentiful. The choice is yours, you can build your own or choose from one of their four options. So what’s my choice? The signature Holy Cow Burger. Pecan wood smoked bacon, American cheese and Thousand Island dressing. It’s not fancy. It’s not crazy. It’s the best burger in Albuquerque. Oh, and the french fries are cut fresh. Double win.
Farm & Table
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Owner Chris Medina and Consulting Chef Steve Jarrett
Braised Duck Tamales
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Executive Chef Sean Sinclair 42
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The name says it all. Farm and Table. Fresh local food brought right to your table. Sound perfect? Yep, that’s the idea. They source local ingredients (over 80 percent of the menu) and design their menu to highlight them. They believe in the community that grows our food and supports it. They compost and recycle. Think it’s a gimmick? Think again–they have their own farm. They employ a full-time farmer and even raise and sell their own cattle. You can’t get more genuine than that. One of the things I enjoy most about the menu at Farm and Table is that not only do they use local ingredients, they reinvent our beloved dishes. They are true to the heritage of New Mexico. The Braised Duck Tamales are a fascinating combination of delicately braised duck, apples, green chile, pomegranate, sage, butter and masa. It’s unlike any tamale I have ever eaten. magazine.com
Más Tapas y Vino Mezze Plate
Pho #1 Seven Course Beef Tasting So before you even think it …. I know, I know … it’s not one dish. The Seven Course Beef Tasting at Pho #1 is without a doubt one of Albuquerque’s best kept secrets (and one of my 8-year-old daughter’s favorite meals as well). Pho #1 is owned and operated by a Vietnamese family and if you want authentic Vietnamese, this is definitely the place to go in Albuquerque. The pho is fantastic, but if you want to step out of the box, try the seven courses of beef. The journey begins with grilled beef wrapped in pickled onions and moves on to my daughter’s favorite part––a small table-top open flame grill is brought to the table along with plates of fresh, crisp veggies, raw thin slices of marinated beef, rice paper and a bowl of warm water. Don’t be scared, just get in there and start grilling your beef. After dunking your rice paper in the warm water, fill it with your choice of toppings and roll it up. Bingo bango … spring rolls at their best. The grill stays table side as course after course arrives, but the last course is undeniably my favorite of the trip. Steaming hot beef congee. The rice porridge is rich and savory and perfect for a cold night. It’s unfortunate it’s not on the menu on it’s own, but I guess I will just have to suffer through the other courses in order to get my fix.
|
Chef Frankie Cerami
Chef James Campbell Caruso didn’t need to open a restaurant in Albuquerque. He was already famous for his two successful Santa Fe restaurants, published books and multiple national awards. So why did he? He recognized the potential of the growing culinary community in Albuquerque and wanted to be a part of its success. And I for one am grateful he did. Más is a tapas restaurant located inside the Hotel Andaluz in downtown Albuquerque. So what’s my favorite? The Mezze Plate. It calls to me, and of course, I answer. A mezze is a selection of small dishes served as an appetizer and Chef Caruso’s version at Más is one of the most colorful and beautiful dishes I have ever laid eyes on. Vibrant beet-walnut spread, a carrot and garbanzo hummus and roasted eggplant purée served with house-made sesame lavash and an assortment of imported olives. Each dynamic component has its own unique flavor while simultaneously they harmonize with one another, creating a sort of zen. Pair this dish with a glass of delicate fino or manzanilla sherry … it’s a game changer.
Farina Pizzeria Cherry Pie
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Owner/Chef Lily Nguyen
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At Farina, I was introduced to what I still believe is the best pizza I have ever eaten. The Cherry Pie. Yep, cherries—an oven-hot pizza topped with mozzarella, fontina and tallegio cheeses, fresh sage, fresh cracked pepper and, you guessed it, amarena cherries. They are rich, succulent, deep red flavor bombs and that day they changed the way I looked at pizza forever. It was not dessert, it was a savory combination of melty cheese and herbs with just the right hint of sweetness. When we finished I felt sad that the fabulous pie wasn’t on the menu. I made a little joke to that extent to the waiter and was more than relieved when he informed me that, although it wasn’t on the menu, as long as they had the ingredients in house, I could be rest assured the cherry pie would once again be mine. And it was … again and again and a few more times after that too. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
Chef/Co-owner Richard Winters, and Co-owner Stewart Dorris
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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TopDishes Tenof 2014
where the Craic is Mighty!
M’Tucci’s Kitchina Twinkie D’Italia Well, I couldn’t close out the list without mention of my favorite dessert in Albuquerque. M’ Tucci’s Kitchina opened last year on the West Side | Executive Chef John Haas and has shone some light on the overshadowed section of town. The dinner menu is well worth the trip on its own, but for me it’s all about the Twinkie D’Italia. Honestly, it’s like a drug. I crave this dang dessert. I love it. I can admit, I am not a fan of the name. And it’s really not at all reminiscent of the Twinkie I remember in my paper bag lunch. But it is like a little piece of heaven in my mouth. It is mousse cake filled with a white chocolate cream and it is sprinkled with candied pecans. Let’s just say last time I went there for dinner with friends … I ordered my own, I refused to share.
Albuquerque: Did your favorite dish miss our list? We want to hear about it! Email the name of your favorite Albuquerque dish (pictures encouraged!) for a chance to be featured in our February issue. Email us at lily@localflavormagazine.com and give a little love to your favorite chef!
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A Quiet Winter
“We always try to collect the clay before the first snow, and never to go after it snows because you’re disrupting Mother Earth, and that’s her time for quietness.”
Photo: Shayla Seymour
Photo: Pat Pruitt
stor y by EMILY BEENEN
J
osie Seymour walks into my house and immediately it’s a better place for her presence. She laughs—all teeth and joy—happy to meet me, happy to meet my family, happy to share her story. Seymour is a potter and jeweler from Seama Village in Laguna Pueblo, approximately 45 miles west of Albuquerque. (There are six villages in all—Seama, Laguna, Mesita,
Paguate, Paraje and Encinal—each with unique Feast Days, celebrations and ceremonies). She’s nationally and internationally renowned: her family was highlighted in the documentary Grab: Indian Giver Redefined, a special selection for the 2011 Sundance Film Festival; her pottery has been featured in art shows in Manhattan; and most recently, she’s been invited to a gallery in Melbourne, Australia, to give a lecture on Pueblo pottery. Nobody seems more delighted or surprised by this than Josie, who began her artistry painting river rocks as a hobby and giving them as gifts for people to use as doorstops for their front doors. Her mother-in-law, who is from the neighboring Pueblo of Acoma, noted her skill and took it upon herself to teach Seymour, telling her, “I’ll teach you so my granddaughters will know,” thus instilling the first lesson: this skill, the knowledge, the tradition and the prayers are meant to be shared.
Seymour says she wasn’t raised in the traditional Laguna way and when she was growing up celebrations like Christmas were all about Santa and gifts, but after she married and her family grew—she has two sons, two daughters and a three-year-old granddaughter—they went back to the traditional ways and it’s given her family a new sense of meaning. Now, she says, “It’s family, and what we teach our kids is it’s the memories we build. We don’t remember the big ol’ presents we got last year, but it’s the time we’ve spent together as well as preparing for our Deer Dances.” Laguna has Feast and Saint Day celebrations that are open to the public, mainly the Harvest Dances (on September 19 and March 19 of each year), but the four day long Deer Dance, which begins on Christmas Eve, is only for Laguna tribal members. “The difference with our Deer Dance,” Seymour explains, “is that it is held in our kiva and it’s done in prayer and that’s all done in thanks. The men have gone hunting for deer, and the ones that are successful, it’s always shared with the community. The prayer of being thankful, the prayer of community, the prayer of togetherness and the wellbeing of our people is what this is about to our family and community.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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In addition to the ceremonial preparation, there are also preparations to be done as a potter. For Seymour, the sharp chill in the air means it’s almost time to go get the clay needed to keep her busy with her pottery during the winter months. The “right” time is not one set by the calendar, but noted by observation of nature. Seymour was taught that by this time, “we hope the snakes are all away,” she says, “and we always try to collect the clay before the first snow, and never to go after it snows because you’re disrupting Mother Earth, and that’s her time for quietness.” Her children play a big part in helping her obtain the clay and in its subsequent preparation, and she makes a point of teaching them all she has learned. “We don’t go and get as much as we can, we only go and get what we need. I was always taught, ‘Don’t be greedy, only take what you need’ and to always do it in prayer.” Since 2006, Seymour has also shared these lessons with her students as a pottery instructor for a cultural enrichment program held at the Kawaik Center in Laguna Pueblo (Kawaik means “Laguna” in her native language, Keresan). There’s belt weaving, moccasin making, classes for making traditional attire as well as instructors who teach Keresan. At times, Seymour and the Keresan instructor will team up, so as she is teaching students the skills, meaning and prayers, these lessons are being translated into their native language. Her children and her students learn to create the different traditional vessels. On the wedding vase, always put two designs—one for the man, one for the woman—on either side for balance. On the water jugs, vessels made specifically for men, the only design necessary is that of the sun. All the lines on the pots represent rain, so as she is painting those lines, she’s praying for rain. The triangles represent mountains, and those prayers go to the hunters for their success, or in gratitude towards those mountains
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Photo: Pat Pruitt
Photo: Shayla Seymour
A Quiet Winter
A tavola non si invecchia. (At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)
NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA
Photo: Shayla Seymour
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for providing a home for our animals. The leaf designs represent all plant life, so these prayers are for the farmers that they may have a plentiful crop. The colors of the pot are also specific and significant. “The white represents day,” she explains, “the black represents night and always the earth tones represent Mother Earth, where all of our materials come from—and again, giving thanks as we use those colors.” The paints are made from the terrain as well—black from a combination of wild spinach and rock; reds, browns and oranges from different clays and sands found in deposits throughout Laguna Pueblo. “Our most famous paint,” Seymour says, “is one that falls from a cave—a sandstone cave. We have to wait for it to fall in a yellow pile of sand. We call it ‘Paint from the Sky’ and that’s the gold paint that we use.” In each of Seymour’s creations, she was taught, an important characteristic that needs to be included is what’s called a “spirit line,” a deliberate break in the design. After she completes a pot and paints it, “I open a line and that allows the prayers that went into the pot to flow and not be trapped in one pot. So if someone were to buy a pot from me, my prayers and all the blessings that went into that pot may flow into your home.” These prayers and blessings are varied; they are individual to the artist, but their presence is constant, driving the purpose, gratitude and humility of the potter. Even with an artist as skilled as Seymour, with as much as she learned over the years, much of the creative process is still trial and error. One year in December, she ran out of clay and, being the type of person who needs to keep busy, decided to use her artistry to make earrings instead. She cuts different geometric shapes from thin pieces of wood and hand paints stunning designs on them similar to her pots. Many have encouraged Seymour to modernize her vessels and designs, but she isn’t inclined to do so. “I’m not one to chase my customer. They’ll see in the vessels what I was taught, just the traditional vessels— the water jug, the seed pots and the wedding vases. They’ll see my beauty and everything that goes into it. I’m not out to go contemporary—I’m going to keep it traditional.”
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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N. '15 DEC. '14 - JA
Barkin’ Ball 2014:
T
his year marks the 75th anniversary of the Santa Fe Animal Shelter (SFAS). Northern New Mexico’s largest animal shelter, SFAS is also one of the country’s most effective. In 2013, it had a live release percentage rate of 97; that number measures success in placing animals via adoption, return to owners or transfer to a partner organization. (To put it into perspective, the national average live release rate is around 40 percent.) Integral to SFAS’s success are its programs, such as the New Hope Foster Program (which assures that special needs animals get individualized care) and 50 First Dates (the shelter’s “no strings attached” adoption option), to name a couple. Then there’s the new Clare Eddy Thaw Animal Hospital, which offers full-service veterinary care and sliding-scale payment options for those who need it. And in October, the shelter took first place in an online fundraising contest, the Michelson Found Animals Saving Pets Challenge, making it eligible to win a $50,000 grant. These are just a few of the reasons it is one of the city’s most beloved institutions, and that love is celebrated annually at the Barkin’ Ball, the shelter’s main fundraising event. Local Flavor spoke with SFAS’s public information officer, Ben Swan, about what’s happening at this year’s Barkin’ Ball, the great generosity of Santa Feans and why foster failure is a good thing. Eve Tolpa: In a lot of organizations, the holidays are the time when nothing gets done, because there is so much time off and it’s hard to keep momentum. But it sounds like the opposite is true for you guys. Ben Swan: I’ve been here for four years and this period from October to December is just so busy. This is when people do a lot of donations and there’s end-of-year tax things. So, yeah. ET: On December 13, the shelter is hosting its 18th annual Barkin’ Ball. What’s been planned for this year’s event? BS: Well, this year, because it’s the 75th anniversary, we decided to actually hold it in December, to finish up the year with a big celebration of what we’ve been able to accomplish in the last 75 years. But it’s also about what we have been able to do in the last 10 years. Next year will be our 10th year here at our facilities [SFAS’s 100-acre campus off Caja del Rio Road]. We’ve never [hosted the Barkin’ Ball] in December before. We used to do it in the fall, usually September or the first part of October. We also went back to [holding the event at] the Convention Center. Last year we were at the Eldorado Hotel, which was nice, but we wanted to have more space, because the best thing about the Barkin’ Ball is that you get to bring your dog. The dogs are usually on their best behavior—because their owners are on their best behavior—but you never know. There’s always that [sense of ], “What’s going to happen?” The convention center also has outdoor areas for potty breaks. This year I can say two words to make you understand why it’s going to be special, and that is : “snow machines.” The big thing about this artificial snow is that it’s completely dry. It falls down and just dissipates. It doesn’t get the floor wet. ET: It’s H2O-based, but by the time it hits the ground the water has completely evaporated? BS: Yeah, exactly. I don’t know how they do it. And our theme is “A Winter’s Tail.” I’m sorry if that’s a bad pun, but I did like the idea of having tail [spelled] T-A-I-L.
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A Winter’s Tail
s t o r y b y E V E T O L PA p h o t o s c o u r t e s y o f S A N TA F E A N I M A L S H E L T E R
ET: You’ve got to have puns when you’re in the animal world. It just comes with the territory. So what are some other particulars about the event? BS: The idea was to transport people into a winter wonderland. You’ll look up and you’ll see these blue twinkling lights. All the tables will be white and blue and very elegant, and there’s going to be these wonderful centerpieces on the tables—some are with lanterns and some have little birch tree sleds. I think it’s going to be very special. We always get a lot of donated items from the community. Usually artists and businesses want to show their support, so they donate a lot of really great items. This year we found that we have too many items for our silent and live auctions, so we’re having a winter store where people can just buy the things whenever they want to. We’re calling it the Winterland Store. [The Barkin’ Ball] starts at 5 p.m. on December 13 [with what] we always call Yappy Hour, for cocktails, then we have a three-course plated dinner by Peas ‘n’ Pod Catering, some live music and then silent and live auctions. Throughout that evening we’ll have special recognition of people, and we have a couple videos that we show. But in my mind the thing that everybody loves is that their dog is with them. Some people dress up their dogs, some don’t, but to me the most wonderful part of the Barkin’ Ball is that you not only get to see your friends, but you get to bring your best buddy with you. People are just very proud of their animals, and that’s what we are all about, right? ET: It’s impressive that you’ve received so many donations for the auction this year. Why do you think people are so enthusiastic about supporting the shelter? BS: I like to always say it’s because of our positive messaging. ET: And is that spelled P-A-W-S-I-T-I-V-E? BS: Of course! You beat me to my pun.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A Winter’s Tail g r a p h i c d e si g n But I think people are just really proud. [Santa Fe is] an animalrelated community, and it’s only natural that they want to make sure that their animal shelter is one of the best in the nation—and I think that we are. We’re a very progressive shelter. We try lots of different programs to save as many animals as we can. We do a lot of outreach. We love to tell our stories, and our stories resonate with people. Whenever you talk to an animal person, you better reserve 30 minutes that you didn’t expect to have. They’re going to pull out photos of their dog or cat, they’re going to tell you how they found it. It’s a common denominator that everyone can relate to. ET: You’re right. People will go on and on about their animals. I certainly do. Mine are cats that I was fostering for the shelter, and they sort of decided, “This place is good enough for us. We’re gonna stay here.” And I was like, “Ok, I guess you’re our cats now!” BS: We call those foster failures, and we think it’s great. The thing about companion animals is that we take care of them—we domesticated them, and they are our responsibility. They are little beings that are just amazing. They get into your heart and they will not let you go.
INVISIBLE CITY DESIGNS clients include ARTsmart/ARTfeast The Essential Guide Inn & Spa at Loretto Internal Medicine Specialists JLH Media Local Flavor Nedra Matteucci Galleries New Mexico Municipal League Prull Custom Builders Santa Fe Botanical Gardens Santa Fe Properties Santa Fe Yoga Festival The Santa Fe Opera Spanish Colonial Arts Society invisiblecitydesigns.com
What: Barkin’ Ball 2014: A Winter’s Tail When: Saturday, December 13, 5 p.m. Where: Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy Avenue Tickets: $125—your dog is welcome for free, and reserved tables for 10 are available. For more information or tickets, call 505.514.0854. Tickets can also be purchased online at barkinball.org.
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Somm’s On the Rise
S
anta Fe may be small but our culinary scene is thriving. Behind this success is a dedicated group of beverage professionals committed to maintaining high standards for wine, cocktails and service throughout our city. These are the sommeliers and mixologists writing your favorite restaurant’s wine list or mixing your drink at the bar. While some have been at it for years, others are just beginning their careers and a few are on the path to become certified sommeliers. These young beverage professionals are excited about what’s new in the world of wine and cocktails, but they’re not just looking to other cities for trends—they’re setting trends themselves. In anticipation of the New Year, I spoke to a few of Santa Fe’s up-and-coming sommeliers about what they’re excited to drink in 2015.
Andrew Roy, the talented young bartender at Il Piatto, discovered the world of wine and cocktails when he worked as a bar back at Secreto Lounge at the Hotel St. Francis during college. “My parents are Southern Baptists and they don’t drink, so I knew nothing about alcohol,” he says. “But I really enjoyed working in the bar, so I started studying everything I could about cocktails, beer and wine.” His studying paid off last year when he passed the Court of Master Sommeliers’ first level exam, and he hopes to continue to the second level, or certified, exam. “From a service standpoint, the more I know, the more I can bring to the table and the better service I can provide,” he says, explaining why sommelier exams are important to him. So what would he like to see people drinking in 2015? “ABC,” he responds. “Anything but Cabernet or Chardonnay.” While these two grapes produce some of the finest wines in the world, Andrew and other beverage professionals in Santa Fe want to turn people on to lesser known varietals and wine producing regions. Andrew is especially interested in southern Italian varietals like Catarratto, a white grape from Sicily. Lately, he’s been drinking a blend of Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) and Negroamaro, two grapes grown in Puglia in southern Italy. “I’m obsessed with it!” he says. “It’s delicious.” Another benefit to exploring new varietals and wine regions, besides their being delicious, is cost—there’s great value outside the realm of the widely known grapes. Graciela Gonzalez, the manager and wine buyer at Restaurant Martín, agrees. “This year I’ve been focused on really great quality wines that are more accessible,” she says, also citing Italy as an area of interest. “We have a single varietal Corvina by the glass right now and personally I’ve been into Gattinara.” Gattinara is an appellation for the Nebbiolo grape in northern Italy near Barolo. While Barolo can be very expensive, Gattinara offers delicious versions of the same grape at much lower cost. Graciela is also enjoying Godello, a white grape grown in Galicia in northwestern Spain. The grape is well suited to barrel aging and produces intense, mineral-rich wines similar in taste to Chardonnay but at lower prices. Traveling to Spain is what got Mary Frances Cheeseman, who works in the wine shop at La Casa Sena, hooked on wine. “In Spain, I found that young people my age were more into drinking wine” she says, “and that the food and wine there went hand in hand.” She decided to become a sommelier and is currently studying for her certified sommelier exam. “I love wine because to me, it’s the pinnacle of what good food is about,” she says. “I like food to be indicative of a place, a culture, a time—and wine in particular represents an amalgamation of all the things that make a true artisanal product.” I ask Mary Frances why she feels sommelier exams are important for young people beginning their careers in the beverage industry. “Knowing how to serve wine is important,” she emphasizes. “I also like the idea that there are standards of excellence associated with studying wine. It’s such a deep subject that involves different languages, geography, history and sociology. The topic has such depth and breadth that there should be some sort of standard by which experts and novices alike are judged.”
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Mary Frances hits on another trend in the beverage industry, which is that more people are becoming versed in wine and cocktails— knowledge isn’t limited to the sommelier. “A lot of the staff at Restaurant Martín are just as qualified in talking about wine as I am,” Graciela explains. “Every week we have staff tastings where distributors come in and talk to us about the wines,” she says. “I’m doing my very best to get everyone to be a part of the wine program.” Tastings are requisite for servers and sommeliers alike, in an effort to make sure everyone on the floor during service can talk about wine and cocktails with guests. You could call it the democratization of the beverage industry. Graciela frames this trend as sharing an experience with a guest through wine, as opposed to “educating” guests, which can have the unappetizing affect of making guests feel intimidated or afraid to ask questions. Andrew and Mary Frances both emphasize that great service goes hand-in-hand with wine and Mary Frances points out that in a retail setting trust is a big part of the picture. “I enjoy the ability to connect with people on a deeper level at the shop,” she says, explaining that once you get to know a customer they may be more willing to try something new. “I feel like I’m in a unique position to change how people think,” she says. Another trend all three of these up-andcoming sommeliers would like to set is turning people on to Riesling, a grape folks tend to avoid because they believe it’s overly sweet. But Riesling is widely considered to be one of the world’s greatest white wine grapes. It can be produced in a wide range of styles, from bone dry to sweet, late-harvest versions. It has a unique varietal footprint, full of captivating aromas and flavors. It is especially adept at expressing site and two vines grown in exactly the same way on different soils will taste completely different. It’s also capable of aging for decades in bottle, just like a fine Bordeaux or Burgundy. “I appreciate the drive towards drinking bone dry wine,” Andrew says, “but a lot of people have gone so far that they won’t accept any residual sugar.” Mary Frances agrees. “I’m really excited about Riesling right now and I wish I could get more people to drink it,” she says. “It’s very affordable and it’s such good quality wine.” Riesling is a trend in sommelier circles everywhere, but how does Santa Fe compare when it comes to other trends in big cities like New York and San Francisco? “Santa Fe has its own unique set of cultural constraints that give it a very strong identity but that separate it from trends in larger cities,” Mary Frances explains. She points out that geographically, Santa Fe is harder to access and shipping wine here can be more expensive. She also
story by ERIN BROOKS photo by STEPHEN LANG
| Graciela Gonzalez of Restaurant Martín, Andrew Roy of Il Piatto and Mary Frances Cheeseman of La Casa Sena
feels that Santa Fe shouldn’t try to emulate bigger cities with its trends. “The food and wine scene here is strong enough on its own and I don’t think it should try to be anything else,” she says emphatically. Graciela points out that Santa Fe cares as much about its culinary scene as any big city. “I believe Santa Fe restaurants care to provide experiences that are on par with big cities,” she says, “and we have the same clientele. There’s a more relaxed atmosphere here, but we definitely care as much to give the same level of service.” Just how much we care is evident in a trend towards purchasing wines from smaller producers and considering growing practices. Graciela tells me that she is becoming more concerned with purchasing wines she can get behind—she wants to know who’s growing the grapes and making the wines. “I want to know who they are. Are they stewards of the land? Do they take care of Mother Nature?” she asks. “I would like to see more estate bottling, terroir focused wines and small growers and producers,” Mary Frances says. “The food scene in general is trending towards farmers markets and farm-totable programs and I would like to see that translating into the wine people drink as well.” Andrew is a great example of a young beverage professional putting this trend into practice. His cocktail program at Il Piatto, although constricted to beer and wine, highlights drinks he’s created using homemade ingredients like his signature spiced shrub syrup, a sweetened vinegar-based syrup made from Balsamic, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and other (secret!) ingredients. Santa Fe’s talented, young beverage professionals want to set the trends for what you drink in 2015. Lucky for us, their choices are delicious and affordable. They’re also setting the standard for great service because at the end of the day, great service is what being a sommelier is all about. Next time you’re out to dinner or need a bottle of wine to take home, look for one of these faces. They’re excited about beverages and excited to help you find something you’ll love. If you’re willing to branch out, you’re likely to fall in love with a new varietal or region. “Some amazing and beautiful wines of the world are going unnoticed,” Mary Frances laments, but I have a feeling these talented folks are going to change that.
Thirsty for more? Visit www.localflavormagazine.com for more stories by New Mexico’s most highly regarded wine writers, including Erin Brooks, James Selby, Kate Gerwin, Philip de Give and Tom Hill. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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Wendy McEahern
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Tickets: Hold My Ticket (112 2nd St SW), 505-886-1251 and ampconcerts.org, 505-232-9868 National Hispanic Cultural Center Tickets - In person or by phone, NHCC Box Office (505-724-4771)
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A new senior lifestyle is coming to Rio Rancho with apartment styles and amenities not offered in other area communities. The Neighborhood is scheduled to open in 2015, giving you time to consider how beautiful your future can be. But you must act now. A new information center is now open at 4500 Arrowhead Ridge Drive SE in Rio Rancho (one block west of the intersection of Highway 528 on Ridgecrest Drive SE). Reservations are now being taken for when the apartments become available for occupancy.
To arrange for your visit, please call Ashley Trujillo at (505) 994-2266.
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Refreshments provided by Artichoke Cafe, Slate Street, & Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro
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Women of the World (WOW) Poetry Slam Kids Vareity Show Latif Bolat
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STILL HUNGRY?
Our Still Hungry? column usually brings you recipes to try out at home, but we decided to try a new recipe this month. To wrap the year up we asked some of our favorite chefs what they’re planning in the kitchen for 2015 that’s big and bold—a new ingredient, a new technique, what they’re looking forward to in their kitchens in the next year. I spoke to eight chefs and got eight different and fabulous answers, all of which were conveyed with such passion and enthusiasm that I think I gained a few pounds just listening. I also learned that Santa Fe chefs are willing to go to great lengths to bring us new ideas. Chef Matt Yohalem spoke to me from Las Vegas, where he was getting ready to head out to a 24-course dinner. Chef Cristian Pontiggia was getting ready to head off to a gastronomic tour of New Orleans. Chef Catherine O’Brien took time out from her European vacation to give me her thoughts. Is it too late for me to be a chef? The great thing about Santa Fe is that I don’t have to be a chef. I just need to leave my house to find something amazing to eat. So, sorry there are no recipes this month, but I think you’ll find plenty of reasons to leave your house this winter and let one of Santa Fe’s finest do the cooking for you. Now I need to go renew my gym membership, I think I’m going to have some extra calories to burn. story by CAITLIN RICHARDS
Andy Barnes Dinner For Two “Comfort food.” Chef Andy has already started moving toward more comfort on his menu. “The last five or six years were more high end, with lots of ingredients.” Chef Andy thinks that people are ready to be a little more rustic, and go back to more basics. Comfort food doesn’t mean boring—one of Andy’s current comfort creations is the Foul Pear, which consists of coq au vin and duck confit with a pear gastrique. On Sundays, he has a Fried Chicken Dinner (gluten free) with a green chile bacon gravy.
Joel Coleman Fire and Hops If he has to sum it up succinctly, Chef Joel’s answer is “fish sauce.” Fire and Hops, a gastro pub, is a bit of a culinary departure for Chef Joel, but he’s doing it his way and bringing his Asian spin to traditional pub fare. “I’m not a big fan of doing things super traditional.” Right now his biggest seller is crispy fried Brussels sprouts, served with fish sauce and lime. Another favorite is a panko crusted mac and cheese, spiced up with Tonkatsu sauce, which Chef Joel describes as “spicy Japanese ketchup. Kimchi is also making its way into dishes you wouldn’t expect.”
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Rocky Durham Santa Fe Culinary Academy Homemade condiments. Chef Rocky has “switched into high gear about making things we usually think we have to buy.” Worcestershire sauce, for example. “I’ve resurrected some hundredyear-old recipes,” he says, which he then puts up for a couple of months to let age. “It’s about knowing where our food comes from, and when it’s made with care and attention, that comes through.” Chef Rocky suggests that mustard is a good starting point for the home cook looking to make condiments. “Mustard is the bacon of condiments.” Look in any refrigerator, it might be empty, but there’ll be at least one mustard in the door. He’s also making a great Tabasco-style hot sauce. “I love making them and using them, and I feel proud serving them.” magazine.com
Matt Yohalem Il Piatto “Balance. We’ve seen everything from small plates to country cooking to molecular gastronomy to naming everything on the plate to gluten free to paleo to bacon on everything.” He continues, “We’ve done generic to farm-to-table to knowing the name of the farm your raspberries came from.” Chef Matt believes balance is the name of the game for 2015; we’ll settle down and have fewer trends and more food. I for one welcome the thought of going out for a meal and not worrying how PC it is. (Though I still like the idea of bacon on everything.)
Catherine O’Brien Terra Cotta Wine Bistro
Katharine Kagel Café Pasqual’s Chef Katharine is “very interested in flavor profiles that are different so that we can make our world bigger.” She is also very interested in the flavors of the Near East. “I’m really enjoying Asian things right now and really enjoying the spicy things from traditional societies. Of course at Café Pasqual’s we’re always organic. Ninety percent of our work is organic, all of our wine list is organic, even our spices are organic.” What’s happening right now? “We’re always celebrating vegetables, we’re celebrating grains, and right now we’re celebrating stews this winter and having a lot of fun. Creole fish stew at night and turkey albondigas during day. Just having a lot of fun!”
“Rice.” Through the magic of email, I was able to reach Chef Catherine as she floated down the Danube between Prague and Budapest. “I think that a new trend for 2015 should be utilizing more of the 40,000 varieties of rice. While rice is a major food staple in many cultures, in our country it is so under used. With the current trend of gluten free food I think exploring the many types and applications would be interesting.”
Cristian Pontiggia Osteria d’Assisi Chef Cristian is looking forward to working with two ingredients in 2015: scamorza, an Italian cheese with a smoky flavor (one of his pairings will be with roasted pear and prosciutto), and nerone (Italian black rice), which will be used to make arancini (rice balls stuffed with cheese, breaded and deep fried). Chef Cristian is about to head to New Orleans and he is looking forward to finding something else new to bring back. I ask how a Cajun ingredient might make its way into an Italian kitchen. “The nice thing about ravioli—you can do whatever you like.” These fusions often make their way onto the specials menu. “I like to play a lot.”
Roland Richter Joe’s Diner “It may surprise you, but the most current ingredient we are experimenting with is hemp.” Hemp seed and hemp flour, to be exact. “At Joe’s, we are deeply invested in health—healthy food, healthy land, healthy bodies and healthy economy. Hemp promises to be healthy and sustainable on all fronts.” Chef Roland has started using hemp flour in muffins and using hemp seeds as a garnish on salads. “It’s also still controversial—even better! And very, very exciting.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
photo: Grace Berge
DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015
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