Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 20 2012 0 12
Something’s coming...
Something good...
)PNF PG UIF )FBMJOH "SUT La Casa Sena will be closed June 4th - June 11th for remodel. Join us for our re-opening on June 13th, 2012. Come check out our new look, patio bar and menu.
LIKE us on Facebook for opening specials, events and new menu information. La Cantina’s singing wait staff will be performing a Diva Show on Saturday, June 16th and Sunday, June 17th at 5:30 & 8:00. For reservations call 505-988-9232.
The La Casa Sena Wine Shop will be open during our remodel.
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Open Daily 11:00am until closing 125 Eas t Palace, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-9232 | lacasasena.com
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AT E N CA N TA D O
4UBUF 3PBE 4BOUB 'F FODBOUBEPSFTPSU DPN
it’s always fresh, always local, always close. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.
OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com
HISTORIC NOB HILL
ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS
505.254.ZINC(9462)
505.294.WINE(9463)
www.zincabq.com
www.savoyabq.com
ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com
. .truly local.
Photo: Gabriella Marks
Photo: Ana June
ON OUR COVER:
Carolyn Parker of Suntoucher Mountain Guides
The Buzz
by Christie Chisholm | 08
Taos. Get in on all the latest news from Santa Fe, Albuquerque and buzz… the Everybody reads
On the Cover: Climb Like a Girl
by Gail Snyder | 11
e takes Carolyn Parker of Suntoucher Mountain Guides in Albuquerqu their face women on an unforgettable journey to find their strength and fears.
Babaluu
by John Vollertsen | 16
for a taste of Santa Feans are beating a path to Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana authentic island cuisine and the warm Cuban hospitality.
Touch the Sky!
by Ana June | 20
balloon, just Writer Ana June chronicles her first exciting ride in a hot-air one of the many rugged frontiers to explore in New Mexico.
The Taos Hum
by Tania Casselle | 24
Meet Karen Todd and Bruce Gomez, two Taoseños you shoul
Vintage Albuqerque by Philip de Give | 26
Set aside the dates—June 20 through 23—for Albuqerque’s and wine event.
premier food
Talking Drums
by Christie Chisholm | 28
Albuquerque’s first African restaurant opens with a vibrant call who want to experience the real thing.
to foodies
Far, Far Away
by Kelly Koepke | 32
nce and clarity. The night skies of New Mexico are legendary for their brillia them. Localflavor helps you find some rather unusual ways to enjoy
Still Hungry? by Tori Lee | 36
up the recipes Four local stores whose wares take us around the world dish Spanish Table, for this month’s Still Hungry. Thank you, Talin Market, The Ziggy’s International Market and The Spice Lady!
d know.
(Layout backgrounds by Sirius and Jaded Reality)
JUNE
2012 ~ Publishers
Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant Melyssa Holik Art Director Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Gabriella Marks Advertising: Michelle Moreland 505.699.7369. Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Leslie Davis Albuquerque 505.933.1345. Christopher Romero 505.670.1331 Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation LocalFlavor 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: localflavor @earthlink.net Website: www.localflavormagazine.com localflavor welcomes new writers. Send writing samples to localflavor@earthlink.net localflavor is published 11 times a year: Feb, March, April, May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan. Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
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Rio Chama’s Patio is Open Don’t forget to join us May 11, 2012 for our patio party. $20 per person. Visit our website for details.
Our Patio is the perfect venue for a Party, Wedding Reception, or To Kick Back and Enjoy Summer. For large party information call 505-955-0765.
Open Daily from 11am till closing 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-955-0765 | RioChamaSteakhouse.com
The Beat Goes On cool consignment
19th best hotel spa in the U.S. – CondÊ Nast Magazine
CLOTHING s ACCESSORIES ART TO WEAR s BOOKS AND MORE
CondÊ Nast Traveler’s 2012 World’s Best New Mexico’s only Gold List Award recipient
BEYOND THE ORDINARYx -ONTEZUMA AT 'UADALUPE NEAR THE 2AIL2UNNER 3ANTA &E .-
211 Old Santa Fe Trail 505.988.5531 | innatloretto.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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and All You Can Eat Horno Baked Pizzas Every Fri & Sat | 6-9p | Only $5 nts! i P $4
Our inspiration for the outdoor issue came the moment that we heard someone use the phrase “sky toucher.” Every moment out of doors in our wonderful state is a moment when we actually feel as if we can touch the sky and the sun, so what better way to capture that spirit then to find activities that involve literally reaching for the sky?
Ivon Ulibarri & Café Mocha - Salsa
Sat 2
Rodney Bowe & Sweet Life - Blues/R&B/Funk/Jazz
FFriri 8
Calle 66 - Contemporary Salsa/Bachata/Merengue
SSat at 9
Memphis P. Tails - Blues/Soul
FFriri 15
Rodney Bowe & Sweet Life - Blues/R&B/Funk/Jazz
SSat at 116
Jackie Zamora’s Brazilian Sextet - Bossa nova / Samba Brazilian Jazz
FFriri 22
Soul Kitchen Soul/blues/jazz featuring Hillary Smith & Chris Dracup
SSat at 223
Baracutanga - Latin/Folk Fusion/World Music
Fri 29
Nosotros - Latin Rhythms
Sat 330
Combo Special Featuring Joanie Cere - Blues/Jazz
Fri 6
Rodney Bowe & Sweet Life - Blues/R&B/Funk/Jazz
SSat at 7
Memphis P. Tails - Blues/Soul
FFriri 13
Soul Kitchen Soul/blues/jazz featuring Hillary Smith & Chris Dracup
SSat at 14 1
Stratus Phear - Classic Rock/Variety
FFriri 20
Los Radiators - Jazz & Variety
SSat at 221
Rodney Bowe & Sweet Life - Blues/R&B/Funk/Jazz
FFrr 27
Combo Special Featuring Joanie Cere - Blues/Jazz
Sat 28
Paul Gonzales Go Latin Jazz Quintet Latin Jazz
112th 2 St. & Menaul inside the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in 505-724-3510 | IndianPueblo.com | 50
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Photo: Kate Russell
Fri 1
Just take one look at our cover with Carolyn Parker, somewhat casually dangling from her climbing rope, and you know that this is someone who intends to touch the sun and isn’t afraid to do what it takes to get there. Carolyn designed and teaches a class called “Climb Like a Girl,” and we couldn’t wait to put that little tongue-in-cheek phrase on our cover as well! Another celestial experience is the one that we sent writer Ana June to cover. (Full disclosure: Several of us declined going up for a hot-air balloon ride before Ana joyfully tackled the assignment.) Albuquerque is, of course, the world mecca for ballooning, and throughout the state we have pilots who can take you on the trip of a lifetime. Ana’s choice was pilot Johnny Lewis of Santa Fe Balloons, and he took her on an unforgettable journey—which she not only captured through her poetic words but with her camera as well. And just in case you still can’t get enough of the great outdoors by the time night has fallen, we have a great story for you on all of the wonders of moonlight hikes, star parties, classes in astrophysics and, yep, we’ve even got Astronomy Rangers. If, on the other hand, your idea of enjoying the great outdoors is on a patio with a mojito in hand, we’ve got that covered, too. There’s a wonderful new restaurant just south of Santa Fe called Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana. It’s got one of the best courtyards in town, genuine island food and Cuban music made for dancing. Meanwhile, down in Albuquerque, it’s the beat of Talking Drums that has everyone excited. Toylin Oladeji just opened the city’s first African restaurant, and writer Christie Chisholm could not stop singing the praises of its fufu, moin moin, ogbono soup, cocoyam and more. We were so inspired by the opening of these two restaurants and the new culinary treasures that they offer that we devoted our monthly Still Hungry column to exotic recipes you can try at home. But first we tracked down all of the ingredients for you from four stores that an adventuresome home cook cannot live without: Talin Market, Ziggy’s International Foods, The Spanish Table and The Spice Lady. Now, don’t get too tied down in the kitchen. Remember, it’s June—and time to Bring On the Outdoors!
DISCOVER
“Lavender Illumination” by Jacqlyn Johns
E I G H T H
A N N U A L
Lavender in the Village F
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Saturday, July 14 and Sunday, July 15, 2012 4920 Rio Grande Blvd. Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM Music• Art • Antiques • Beer and Wine Garden Children’s Activities and so much more! w w w. l a v e n d e r i n t h e v i l l a g e . c o m
YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT THE ARTICHOKE CAFE | SEASONAL, SUSTAINABLE, ORGANIC 424 Central SE, Central & Edith | Albuquerque Lunch Mon-Fri | Dinner Mon-Sun 505/243-0200 | www.artichokecafe.com
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3 p.m. (but it’s recommended to get there early). 318 Silver SW, 505.247.1581, www. stjohnsabq.com.
ALBUQUERQUE by Christie Chisholm New Mexico is a state of artists, and we’ve got plenty of craft fairs, gallery openings and studio tours to prove it. But the longest running art show, now at a staggering 51 years, is the New Mexico Arts and Crafts Fair. From Friday, June 22, through Sunday, June 24, you can see works from more than 220 local artisans. Throughout the weekend, catch artist demonstrations, a silent auction, a youth art exhibit and more. The whole thing takes place at EXPO New Mexico (the State Fairgrounds) in the Manuel Lujan Exhibit Complex. Adults can pay $5 a day or $10 for all three days. Kids 12 and under get in free. Find out all about it at www. nmartsandcraftsfair.org. 2501 San Pedro, Suite 100, 505.884.9043. Get your country on at Wagon Mound Ranch Supply Monday, June 4. There will be a special, one-night-only performance by the award-winning and inimitable R.W. Hampton. And while there’s no guarantee, the Wagon Mound owners are trying to coax their friend Brice Chapman to visit from Lubbock, Texas, for a round of fancy rope tricks to warm up the audience for Hampton’s show. Get all the details by calling 505.341.2489. 6855 Fourth Street NW, Suite E2, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, www.wagonmound.com.
miss it. For more information, visit www. abqsummerfest.com.
|| Los Lobos For this year’s Vintage Albuquerque, ten different restaurants are putting on salivationinspiring winemaker dinners on Thursday, June 24. If you haven’t been to one of these in years past, here’s the deal: Winemakers and restaurants join together to create a memorable evening of perfectly paired taste sensations. Seating at each eatery is limited to about 40 guests, and that restriction is to ensure that chefs are allowed complete mastery over the evening’s fare. This year, Artichoke Café, Bien Shur, Brasserie La Provence, Chama River Brewing Company, Forque Kitchens, Marcello’s Chophouse, Prairie Star Restaurant, The Ranchers Club, Seasons and Savoy Bar and Grill are participating. Some menus are already available online, and you can fine them at www.vintagealbuquerque. org. Wine dinners are $125 per person, but the beer dinner at Chama River is only $65. Get all the details and register online. And don’t miss the other great events planned for the week, including Wednesday’s VIP Dinner, the Friday Fiesta at the National Hispanic Cultural Center featuring over 30 wineries and 30 restaurants (my favorite event) and the grand finale, The Live Auction and Grand Dinner on Saturday night under the tent at beautiful Prairie Star.
The Men of Mah Jongg is a story about four men, each dealing with his own misfortune. Sidney, a recent widower, worries about his daughter, whose white-collar fraud of a husband is on the lam. Marvin is Sidney’s general caregiver who introduces the group to the (traditionally female) game of mah is called the “Spa-tennial” Spirit Path and jongg. Harry is an aspiring actor who begins with a massage of aromatic oils, was finally cast in an off-Broadway play, which leads into a gentle exfoliation using but he must wrap his mind around the local Tamaya blue corn flour and ends with mental tanglings of his character, who has a Tamaya Native Herbal Wrap. Maybe you Alzheimer’s. Finally, Jerry, a songwriter, should celebrate the spa’s achievement with tries his damnedest to churn out more than a treatment of your own. Find out how at a single melody. Written by Albuquerque www.tamaya.hyatt.com. 1300 Tuyuna Trail, local Richard Atkins, the show has already Santa Ana Pueblo, 505.867.1234. been produced in New York, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Philadelphia and Scranton, among Even more weekend fun on Nob Hill. Yanni’s other locations. This time it’s at The Adobe is now open for brunch on Saturday and Theater, and Atkins is directing. The Men of Sunday—the perfect time to try out their Mah Jongg opens June 1 and runs through new Bloody Mary and Bellini Cart. The cart June 24. Tickets are $15 general and $13 for pulls up tableside to make your drink as you students and seniors. Get show times and choose your favorite fresh condiments to top more at www.adobetheater.org. 9813 Fourth them off. You can also join in the celebration Street NW, 505.898.9222. of Gay Pride Week on June 30 when they’re serving some very special snow cones infused with alcohol—lots of flavors, lots of fun. 3109 Central NE. 505.268.9250 Change is in the air at La Casa Sena. Not This is not until July, but we want to be sure only has the restaurant added a new bar to you reserve the date for a very special trunk its patio that opens every day at 3 p.m., but show. Accent on Vision East is celebrating La Cantina is also now open for lunch and the arrival of Tom Ford’s new line of frames dinner. Two TVs have been added to the and sunglasses on July 2 from 5 p.m. to 7 interior for patrons who seek a more casual p.m. You know you want a pair, and for this environment. Don’t fret if you stop by and show only there will be special discounts and find it closed for a week this month, though. lovely refreshments. Darling, they’re Tom La Casa Sena will be shut down briefly for Ford and you deserve a pair. 7121 Prospect remodeling (implementing a sleek new Place NE. 505.293.3515. contemporary look and feel while retaining its traditional charm) and a complete menu reworking. While Chef Patrick Gharrity will keep some old favorites, a number of seasonally inspired New American West cuisine items will be added. Even with all the changes, some staples will remain, including the wait staff that sings Broadway hits at La Cantina. Check out all the newness at 125 East Palace, 505.988.9232, www.lacasasena. com.
SANTA FE
|| R.W Hampton Celebrate New Mexico’s Centennial with this year’s extra-special Summerfest. Dozens of performances will be packed into five pavilions along Central Avenue on Saturday, June 16, from noon until 9:30 p.m. The Grammy-winning Los Lobos headline the festivities with a free evening concert. Other notable performers include the also Grammy-winning Robert Mirabal, the strikingly handsome Will Banister, local favorites Le Chat Lunatique, and Al Hurricane Sr. and Jr., among scores of others. And while you’re soaking up all that culture, stop by 100 for 100: Statewide Arts and Crafts Market, which will feature work from more than 100 artists around New Mexico. Located on Central between Sixth and Seventh Streets, it’ll be right in the middle of Summerfest, so you can’t 8
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|| Tamaya Mist Spa A hearty congrats to the Hyatt Regency Tamaya, which has been named one of the best resort spas in the country by Condé Nast Traveler. Out of a possible 100 points, the spa scored 93 for its staff, facilities and treatments. It’s easy to see why it did so well: The spa features more than ten treatments room, a eucalyptus steam room, a plunge pool, customizable yoga experiences and a fullservice salon. One of its favorite treatments magazine.com
Here’s an unusual one. The Cathedral Choir and Cathedral Choristers of the Cathedral of St. John are raising money to go to New York City. Once they get there, the choirs will sing in some of the most notables venues in the notable city, including Saint Thomas Church on Fifth Avenue, St. Mary the Virgin in Times Square and the Cathedral of St. John the Divine, which is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Additionally, the choirs will represent New Mexico for its Centennial, showcasing music written by New Mexican composers and some pieces penned especially for the Cathedral of St. John. If you’d like to help the choirs meet their fundraising goal (while hearing some undoubtedly beautiful music in the process), come to their Great Hymns and Anthems concert on Sunday, June 3, at the Cathedral of St. John in Albuquerque. Tickets are $20 for adults, $15 for seniors and $5 for students with ID. Everything gets started at
Photo: Gabriella Marks
|| Cathedral Choir
|| Chef Patrick Gharrity Welcome the first day of summer with a feast made from fresh local ingredients. On Thursday, June 21, renowned Chef Matt Yohalem of Il Piatto will whip up a scrumptious dinner benefiting Farm to Restaurant, a new program sponsored by the popular Farm to Table nonprofit, which works to promote sustainable local
If Dad’s a hat lover, you’ve just found the perfect Father’s Day gift. The HatSmith of Santa Fe is now stocking the creations of master hatter Ritch Rand. Rand, who has crafted hats for a number of movies, has been making his caps by hand in Billings, Montana, for more than three decades. While some U.S. presidents and members of European royalty have donned Rand’s work, he says it’s creating hats for working cowboys that makes him most proud. If you want to learn more about him, check out The Cowboy Hat Book, which he authored. If you want to see what the man is capable of in person, get yourself to 228 Ortiz. 505.995.1091, www. thehatsmith.com. Two self-guided garden tours offer a wonderful opportunity to appreciate the fact that absolutely everything is in bloom. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden hosts its annual Garden Tour, split into two weekends. First, on Sunday, June 3, meander through the historic Acequia Madre neighborhood to peer at gardens among the adobe homes and narrow, tree-lined streets. Also see the first house in the city designed by John Gaw Meem. Then on Sunday, June 10, find yourself in one space made from flowers and edible vines and another from a verdant floral landscape as you look into artists’ gardens. Both events go from 1 to 4 p.m. Buy your tickets in advance and get one day for $35 or both days for $65, or buy your tickets at the gate for $40 per day or $75 for both. Find out more by calling 505.471.9103 or visiting www.santafebotanicalgarden.org. Congratulations to KBG Spirits, which took home three awards from this year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Garnering a silver medal was the Vodka Viracocha, made from potatoes in a 12-foot Arnold Holstein copper still and named after the original god of the Americas. Both the Hacienda Gin and three-year-old Taos Lightning single-barrel straight rye whiskey won bronze medals. Get your hands on these lauded libations while they last. One of Santa Fe’s most talented and renowned chefs, Charles Dale of Encantado, is celebrating the 30th Anniversary of his foray into the world of culinary arts. Not content with just any celebration, Dale found a way to give back to the profession that he so passionately loves. He reached out to the James Beard Foundation to establish the Charles Dale Scholarship Fund--a permanent program that promotes the development of young culinary talent in New Mexico. The scholarship is Dale’s way of recognizing the special relationship of mentors and protégés and how vital a role it plays in the success and formation of a master chef. Rancho Encantado will host the first James Beard Scholarship dinner in New Mexico, of which 70% of the evening’s
proceeds will go to fund the scholarship. For this momentous event, Chef Dale has brought together five of his former protégés for a six-course meal, with each guest Chef creating a signature dish. “Thirty Years At the Stove.” June 26. Serious star power. Reserve now. 505.946.5800.
in seasonal vegetarian recipes firmly rooted in food that is locally sourced. The author of eleven books, including What We Eat When We Eat Alone and Seasonal Fruit Desserts from Orchard, Farm and Market, Madison also consults with schools and restaurants on menu development. Cost of the workshop is $150. Find out more by calling 505.471.1565 or visiting www. wordharvest.com.
|| Chef Charles Dale of Encantado
You may remember the Samuel Design Group from the fall, when we dedicated a profile to the modern and innovative interior design firm. The group has just moved from the Railyard area to a new location at 428 Sandoval Street, Suite B. If your current space feels lackluster or if you are making a home in a new space, Samuel Design will handle everything from plumbing and lighting systems consultation to custom bedding and cabinetry. They even do holiday decorating. 505.820.0239, www.samueldesigngroup.com.
Get a glimpse inside Santa Fe artists’ studios for free. The Santa Fe Studio Tour takes you to see works from 41 artists in 26 studios. It starts on Friday, June 29, with a preview party and gallery show at 851 Saint Michaels Drive, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. (Don’t miss a door prize drawing at 7 p.m.) All throughout the weekend, participants can stop at this location for preview samples and maps. Then on Saturday, June 30, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday, July 1, from noon to 5 p.m., traipse around Santa Fe and Santa Fe County to see what goes on behind the canvas. For more information, visit www. santafestudiotour.com.
Love Italian food but hate gluten? Then we’re about to make you crazy happy with news that Osteria d’Assisi Ristorante Italiano’s Chef Pontiggia has worked furiously for months to craft a pasta that is absolutely gluten-free. Better yet, it’s supposed to be nearly indistinguishable from the gluteny stuff. You can get it as a featured item with seasonal soft-shell crab, complemented by a dessert of gluten-free chocolate truffle served with saffron-vanilla sauce and organic rose petals. There’s nothing limited about that. 58 S. Federal Place, 505.986.5858, www.osteriadassisi. com.
Photo: Kate Russell
agriculture through education, outreach, marketing and public policy. The menu for the first event of the season is still in flux, but we’re promised it will be based entirely on local farm ingredients. Tickets are $75, the time is 6:30 p.m. and the place is Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen. We’ll see you there. 95 W. Marcy, 505.984.1091, www. ilpiattosantafe.com.
Just in time for summer, New York Deli has opened a brand-new patio. Now you can get the blintzes, schwartzbergers and bagels you crave (and really, so, so much more) in the sunshine. Check it out at 420 Catron, 505.982.8900, www.nydelisf.com.
|| Jay Fries’ Fire Cloud Panorama Western Otter is more than an adorable name. It’s also a place where you can find the handmade and the unusual. Think Southwest-themed collage greeting cards by co-owner Jennifer Wurth, or vintage boots and tooled leather bags hand-painted with cacti, flowers and skulls by Wurth’s husband, Michael. There’s also embroidered blouses, designer jewelry, fair-trade goods and other antiques and oddities. The lovable little boutique re-located on Cinco de Mayo from Hico, Texas, so drop by, give them a welcome and pick up a piece of kitsch. 203 E. Palace, 505.982.6393, www.westernotter.com. Word Harvest presents a rare opportunity: to spend a day learning from a nationally renowned published author. This Saturday, July 14, Deborah Madison teaches the oneday writing workshop “Writing Your Life Through the Lens of Food.” The prolific writer, chef and cooking teacher specializes
|| Palamakia Dancers at the Santa Fe Greek Festival The Santa Fe Greek Festival is back for its 15th year, this time in a new location. Now in the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, the festival has a larger venue, improved kitchen facilities and a bigger performance space. Among the tantalizing culinary options this year are Plaza Café Southside’s souvlaki with grilled chicken, pork or veggies on fresh pita bread, topped with tomatoes, onions and tzatziki. Plaza Café Downtown will serve up authentic gyros made from beef and lamb on a spit, while Upper Crust Pizza and Tortilla Flats will dish out Greek calzones and Greek salad. Find spanakopita, Greek-style rice, dolmades, baklava and much more. Chow
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
down while listening to The Aegean Sounds live and watching the Palamakia Dancers. It all takes place on Friday and Saturday, June 15 and 16, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Admission is a mere $3, while children 12 and under are free. 201West Marcy. Find out more at www. santafegreekfestival.com.
TAOS Let’s generate some well-earned applause for one of the country’s oldest summer programs for young chamber musicians: Taos School of Music turns 50 this year. To celebrate this momentous achievement, the school is hosting Opus 50, a concert and season of events featuring world-renowned musicians. During June and July, five different concerts—with guests including the Shanghai Quarter, the American String Quartet, Robert McDonald, Chris Costanza and the Jupiter String Quartet, among others—will bring attention to a half century of education, enrichment and world-class music. Find all the details at www.taosschoolofmusic.com. The Toast of Taos Wine Festival and Golf Tournament tees off this Saturday, June 23, at the Taos Country Club. Golfers get a shotgun start at 9 a.m., with the tasting easing in at 2 p.m. In addition to selections from 10 wineries, appetizers from the likes of The Taos Inn, Graham’s Grille and Dragon Fly will also be available for devouring. Watchers and tasters only pay $35, while golfers pay a flat fee of $135 for the whole day. Get your tickets soon if you plan on golfing, because this popular event is limited to 120 players and usually sells out. 54 Golf Course Drive, 575.758.7300. Find out more at www.toastoftaos.com. Fly fishers and hopeful fly fishers, this is your moment! Taylor Streit, legendary guide in the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame and author of three books on the subject, says now is the time to get your boots wet. Now that runoff is winding down, most streams have perfect conditions, and along the Rio Grande near Taos, those conditions will persist until the end of June. Especially prime: float fishing for smallmouth, trout and pike in the lower Rio Grande. The Chama will also be ready for some serious fishing in June, he says, as will the Conejos. Stop by the Taos Fly Shop, run by Streit’s son Nick to load up on supplies and consider treating yourself to a guided outing. 308-C Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575.751.1312. Learn about rates at www. taosflyshop.com. What exactly does a Family Cowboy BBQ look like? It looks like a roundtrip scenic chairlift ride on Angel Fire Resort’s Chile Express, a summit barbecue, live entertainment featuring poet and musician Cowboy Bob, and horse wagon rides by Roadrunner Tours. You can see what it looks like in person Sunday, June 24, from 4 to 7 p.m. Tickets are $48.50 for adults, $38 for kids 6 to 12 and free for children younger than that. To make reservations, call 575.377.3055. 10 Miller Lane, Angel Fire, www.angelfireresort.com.
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S AV O R I N G A
SOUTHWESTERN SUMMER
E SCAPE THE ORDINARY IC ARL G DĚś FIELD TO FOOD FO O D P ES E SCA T UR C A I E L F AR DG N A
a community food event
June 23, 7pm 5th Annual Event
The Anasazi Patio Al fresco drinks & casual dining on the Plaza Special patio menu with full bar & wine selections
Center for Ageless Living 3216 Hwy 47 South, Los Lunas, NM
505-865-8813
The Anasazi Restaurant & Bar Unique American cuisine in a sophisticated setting
nmagelessliving.com
Live music every Friday night & Sunday brunch
Tickets $45 two for $80
Ticket Scan
Proceeds benefit Sustainable Communities for Senior Care, creating a fresh food distribution program for home bound elders
Five course dinner with wine under the stars in an elegant garden setting. Created with all local ingredients from: Old WindMill Dairy, Miller Farm, De Cherif Farm, CAL Farms, Simon Farm, 113 Washington Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-3030 innof theanasazi.com
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Amyo Farm, East Mt Organics, Chispas Farm, South Valley Garlic Project, Casa RondeĂąa, Milagro Vineyards; additional support from Bacchus Wines, US Foods and Sysco Prepared by the Green House Bistro & Bakery
story by GAIL SNYDER photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
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onsider the possibility that inside each of us there’s an unmet part of ourselves, an untapped potential, that’s just dying to be born. And that the only way to access that self is to venture—shakily, if need be—into the scary unknown that lies just beyond our comfort zone. John Kear and Carolyn Parker, Suntoucher Mountain Guides, have been out of their comfort zones for so long, they probably couldn’t fit back in now if they tried. At the unusually young age of six, Carolyn and John both hurtled themselves into the world of x-treme sports before there even was such a concept. By adolescence, John was snowboarding, wrestling and rock climbing, and Carolyn took up racing bikes and cars, mountain biking, Telemark skiing and rock climbing. Soon afterwards, they both began ice climbing as well, John took up mountaineering and Carolyn began running marathons and mountain races. Today, John— owner, head guide and guide trainer—is one of only a handful of Americans to have completed the International Guide Certification while Carolyn, his business partner, is an AMGA-certified rock guide in addition to being an athlete trainer at her own business, AthenaFit. Among Suntoucher’s best-known and -loved clinics is Climb Like A Girl, which Carolyn designed. Twenty years ago, when she was learning the sport herself, there weren’t many women she knew doing it. “So I climbed with guys,” she says, “and I learned by watching them.” But women are built differently and sometimes lack men’s upper body
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strength. “One day, I was climbing with my dear friend Timmy, and he said, ‘You need to learn to climb like a girl.’” She realized that he was right; instead of trying to imitate men’s climbing techniques, “I could be more efficient and effective using the strengths women inherently have.” Observing that 90 percent of climbing requires strength derived from one’s core and legs, she taught herself a more elegantly functional technique and then offered to teach it to the women in her Albuquerque community. They come by word of mouth, in a variety of fitness levels. “Women frequently turn out to be better climbers. In fact,” Carolyn laughs, “men have told me, ‘You need to have a Climb Like A Girl clinic for guys. We need to climb better—not be afraid, not be limited.’” But so far, it’s just for girls. “I’ve easily worked with over a hundred women in the course of this past decade, seeing them go from novices to off climbing on their own. I love that! I can’t go out climbing anywhere without seeing women I’ve taught. They see my dog and get all excited.” And that’s the part that excites her. “I’ll be the first to tell you it’s not just about being faster or stronger; it’s about being a more conscious human being.” Carolyn’s great desire “is to inspire women who sit at desks all day under fluorescent lights to engage in self-change”—simply by going outside. “From all walks of life, in their 30s, 40s, 50s and beyond, they gain a new and deepened level of confidence in themselves. They get out and laugh, have a wonderful time and just glow! Sometimes I step back and think, ‘Wow, I get to do this for a living! What a gift!’ I want to be the drop of water that creates the ripple of positive change in the world.” Carolyn has encouraged students to face some brave and dramatic challenges. “Women have come who had a severe and paralyzing fear of heights. In the beginning, they couldn’t go up more than three or four feet off the ground, but they pushed through their mental and physical barriers, and now some of those same women lead their own climbs and go out with their buddies every weekend.” One of Carolyn’s students remembers, at her first Climb Like A Girl clinic years ago, “a retired schoolteacher in her late sixties was there who’d never done anything like this before.” The student says that she’s still astonished and amazed that, by the end, the schoolteacher was in her harness and helmet, climbing, belaying and rappelling with the best of them. “I knew then that Carolyn is an amazing teacher and climbing guide!” Says another longtime student, who has always been very athletic, “I’m 57 now. I remember my first climb with Carolyn. What a riot! I spent a lot of time swinging at the end of the rope—and screaming.” She’s now one of those leading her own climbs. “A lot of what we do reflects what we learned through Climb Like A Girl: safety, emphasis on technique and climbing efficiency and supportive comments. Climbing can be rife with egotistical, testosterone-pumped competition,” she adds, “so it’s nice to hang out with climbers with whom I continue to advance my skill.” Climbing partners, says Carolyn, are critical to this sport—you don’t ever want to go out solo. “They’re also some of the closest bonds you will ever make.” As another long-term student, owner of a fitness gym, observes, “Climb Like A Girl isn’t just about the rocks; it’s the doorway to friendships with other strong women as well.” The clinics are all-day, exhilarating affairs. The first of the 2012 season took place in El Rito. “It’s a full day—we’re easily out five or six hours,” says Carolyn. More clinics are planned throughout the summer. And, for the fall, Carolyn has scheduled Climb Like A Girl Moab!, which she describes as being “a unique new challenge to learn the technique for climbing in rock face cracks. Not to mention, it’s just absolutely stunning scenery: the sandstone and red rocks contrasting
| Carolyn Parker
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“Sometimes I step back and think, ‘Wow, I get to do this for a living! What a gift!’ I want to be the drop of water that creates the ripple of positive change in the world.” Carolyn Parker
with the clear blue sky! I tell everyone, ‘Shoot, we’re up here, why not stay the whole weekend? Go camping, go hiking, explore!’” It matters to both Carolyn and John that people get to spend time in such amazing scenery. After college, the two ultimate adventurers traveled the globe challenging themselves in remarkable wilderness areas, learning more and more climbing and mountaineering skills as they went—and teaching them to clients. In 2003, they returned to New Mexico to establish Suntoucher Guides, specializing in small ratio alpine ascents in such exotic and far-flung places as Alaska, South America, Europe, the Himalayas and Canada— as well as here in the Southwest. “Whether it’s the Alps or New Mexico,” says John, “we cater to the client’s skills.” When asked to describe the rewards of climbing, John laughs—where to start? “Well, in general, it’s a good way to get out into the mountains, out of our ordinary lives, to push ourselves mentally and physically. Everybody feels the fit and healthy effects from being out in clean, invigorating air instead of sitting watching TV. But I don’t think anything says reward or achievement better than a summit. It’s a definitive goal. Climbing has given me confidence. I know how hard I can push myself, what I’m capable of and what I’m not. You get to learn all kinds of things about yourself.” He likens being a mountain guide to the job of air traffic controller. “You have to be hyper aware of all the hazards and manage the risk. You want to give clients the understanding that it’s not OK to go out with just the bare minimum of skill set. Do it with a level of style and security. Overtrain! Prepare for anything that might go wrong!” That way, he says, as you take that first brave step into the unknown, “new things begin to be more clear. The path unfolds as you take those initial steps into it.” When asked if he’s ever had any accidents, he replies, simply, firmly, “No.” This year, Carolyn learned to surf. “And I thought, why not?” she says. “So I hired a teacher, booked a place at La Jolla and, again, by word of mouth, women who’ve worked with me before have fallen into line, inspired by the cool, super adventure of this new clinic, Surf Like A Girl.” They come, her students, they dare themselves, they come back. Each woman who’s gone beyond her comfort zone with Carolyn that first time, attached herself to the others by ropes and ascended together the forebodingly tall, massive wall of rock, each one comes back noticeably changed. You can read a book about climbing, watch a movie. But if you want to personally meet these unknown parts of yourself, you have to take a risk. Go outside and give yourself up to the experience. You’ll return no longer novices but experienced climbers, just like these women. Joyous. Triumphant. Grinning from ear to ear. Lit up from the inside. Flexing muscles you didn’t know you had, at one with the rock, the sky, the air. Each other. Wide open for whatever life has to offer. Like proud new mothers of a new part of yourself you love with all your heart. John or Carolyn can be reached at Suntoucher Mountain Guides 505.400.5590 or 505.400.2529. www.suntoucher.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 2012
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A
lthough Cuba is a mere 94 miles from the southernmost tip of Florida, extreme travel restrictions still exist for Americans, so for most of us this exotic land lives only in our psyche and on our palates in the form of their vibrant cuisine.
story by JOHN VOLLERTSEN photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
Since the revolution rendered the island off limits, Miami has been known as the best place to sample comida Cubana. Now, however, fans of the tasty cookery can also enjoy it closer to home. Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana, located on Highway 14 past the state penitentiary, opened in March, and in the few short months since then, this new kid on the block has generated a lot of excitement. Babaluu’s cozy cottage setting has, over the years, housed a multitude of restaurants that served everything from New Mexican fare and burgers to the more unexpected dim sum. The name Babaluu pays homage to Babalu Aye, an Orisha, or deity in the Yoruba religion, who both punishes and heals; the mere mention of his name evokes powerful consequences. Amaury Torres, the restaurant’s owner and chef, hails from Havana, and his menu is loaded with all the delicious Cuban dishes you would expect to find on an authentic menu. Everything I sample is bursting with flavor and transcends the obvious. Twice-fried plantains come with a zippy green chile–cilantro aioli. A deeply flavored black bean soup is loaded with garlic and cumin and is vegetarian to boot—a boon for my lunch date. My own Cuban sandwich oozes with Havarti cheese (a nice twist on the traditional Swiss) and is packed with roasted pork and ham and sided by tart pickles Torres made himself. Trufflescented french fries fill the room with their heavenly fragrance. Other ethnic cuisines get a nod on Torres’ large and worldly menu, too: fish and chips with Creole tartar sauce, an Italian muffuletta, Brazilian-style mussels, Hatch chile stew, and a New Orleans linguini with shrimp and andouille sausage, to name a few. The cleverly named house specialty, Cuban Refugee Platter, serves up a delightful combination of slow-roasted pork, rice and beans, fried yucca and plantains—perfect. The delicate baked-to-order guava galette, which boasts a layer of melting cream cheese, has my companion and me singing its praises long after our lunch ends. Clearly, there is passion behind Torres’ gastronomy, and I hope he can dissect the elements of this distinct cookery beyond the ubiquitous beans, rice and plantains. Recognizing a chef ’s need to get out of the kitchen and check out his competitors, I invite Torres to join me for a meal at one of my current favorite haunts, Tomme.
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| Chef and owner Amaury Torres
“Tell me about your culinary training in Cuba,” I begin, as we tuck into a yummy platter of assorted appetizers prepared by Chef Brian Rood. “I grew up in the barrio of Havana, where my father was in the military service,” Torres replies. “Probably the first thing I learned to make was rice, taught to me by my grandmother. Rice is a very important part of our cuisine. Realize in Cuba we have very limited use of utensils and equipment. Her method was very specific. Cubans don’t like sticky rice. After combining the grain with the water, she placed a wet paper bag on the surface of the rice. As the rice cooked, the bag slowly dried out. Once it was dry, the rice was perfectly done. She made me do it over and over until it was just right. “I remember being a teen and practicing to make an omelet. When you don’t have a lot of food, eggs can create interesting meals. I learned to flip it and then to make a frittata and a Cuban specialty called pan con tortilla, which I put on my menu occasionally. I eventually went to a pastry school, which was in the Hilton in Havana. I learned all sorts of bread and pastries. We made bolillos [Cuban rolls] using 40-year-old starter. Jobs are mandatory there; everyone works. My mother held three jobs. We grew up eating very simple food. If we had chicken we ate every part of it; my brother loved the neck.” We discuss the lack of good ingredients available in Cuba. Says Torres, “Although lobsters are plentiful in my country, the locals are not allowed to eat them; they go to the state-owned businesses for the tourists. You can buy them on the black market, though. Plantains are popular, because they grow so easily there. We serve them ripe and fried. Or green ones are fried once, squashed and then re-fried again—those are called tostones. Like Cubans, Americans love sweet and salty flavors together, too. Because the food is based on Spanish and African cultures, there is very little heat in dishes. When I first tasted chiles here in New Mexico, I fell in love. I also love the combination of chocolate and chiles.” Torres’ life in America began in Florida but quickly took him to Oregon, where he lived for 15 years. “I lived briefly in Jacksonville but had a halfbrother in Portland who I went to visit,” he explains. “The food was so different there—simple, light and with lots of seafood. I settled in the Mexican area of town and started working in restaurants. There was one Cuban grocery store there, with a Cuban restaurant called Pambiche across the street. It’s still there. I never cooked Cuban food in any job, though—I worked mostly in fine-dining restaurants. That is why I am enjoying it so much at Babaluu’s. “While living in Portland, I started to learn about and experiment with many new ingredients. I played with Cajun seasoning and have a blackened fish on the menu at Babaluu’s. I learned how to cook sea urchin. I love the curries of India. Even Brazilian flavors appear on my menu, like my mussels with coconut and lime. I do a spicy gaucho steak Argentinean-style and use Oregon cherries and mango in my barbecue sauce. I sneak in some New Mexico red chile.
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ENJOY GREEK FOOD, PASTRIES, MUSIC & DANCING! BEER & WINE TOO!
“I learned about fennel, watercress, halibut, oysters and how to cook with basil. In Cuba, basil is only used in Santeria ceremonies, where the Santera cleans out the bad sprits around you with the herb. Surprisingly, black pepper was new to me.� I ask how Torres met his charming wife, Mary, who works the front of the house at the restaurant and to whom he has been married for 13 years. “We met in Portland in | Chef Torres and his wife Mary a small basement Cuban Cha-Cha nightclub that had dancing,� he tells me. “It is because of her I have the career that I do. All I was doing was cooking; I had become a prostitute to the hospitality industry. Mary encouraged me to become more passionate about food and not just look at it as work. She pushed me to my limits. It is because of her I have a successful career. If we hadn’t met, I would still be a line cook.� How did Torres end up in New Mexico? “I answered an ad for a chef needed for a Cuban restaurant in Madrid called Tocororo. It wasn’t exactly the situation I was looking for, but through coming here to check it out, I met the gal that owns the Mine Shaft. I ended up consulting on the menu for her last summer and heard about the building we are in now being available.� Many Cubans risk their life to come to America. I am curious to know Torres’ take on the differences between the two countries. “We Cubans are very hungry,� he tells me. “We invite tourists to swim on our beautiful beaches, but we cannot. But because of the mighty dollar, they can. I have always believed if you don’t dream it, you don’t make it. We are happy people, because we are used to having little. We survive with what we have. Here in America people have a lot, but they are not always happy. My rent is so good here, I don’t have to gouge the customers with food and wine prices. I am very happy cooking the food of my country.� Torres is already growing his business. He recently opened a colorful outdoor terrace called Patio Copa Cabana and plans on hosting a small farmers’ market on the property, too, showcasing local farmers on Saturdays. We thank our lucky stars that Amaury and Mary have settled here to live their dream and share a taste of Cuba with us. Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana is located at 3810 Hwy 14 in Santa Fe County. 505.471.1100. www.babaluuscocina.com. Lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m on Monday and then on Thursday through Sunday. They are closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. Dinner is served on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. 18
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Santa Fe - Albuquerque - Taos A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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story and photos by ANA JUNE
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Beneath us, the earth rolled on and it felt like we were standing still just witnessing the turning of a new day. It was an hour past dawn on Mother’s Day, but I wasn’t sleeping in or enjoying a leisurely breakfast in bed. Instead I was standing on a turnout near the highway to Taos lifting a plastic cup of Champagne in a toast with nine other people, most of whom I had met only an hour earlier. Sporadic raindrops cratered the dust at my feet, and the wind spiraled around me. It was cold and I was shivering. But I couldn’t stop smiling. If only I could have thrown the morning into reverse and relived what just happened. I envisioned our ragtag caravan snaking backwards up the highway to a turnoff you’d miss if you blinked. I saw us weaving along a narrow dirt road, a rooster tail of dust rewinding under the wheels, and circling back to the spot where the hailstorm hit, back to the place where we returned to earth. Then back into the basket, the dusty hot air balloon unfurling above and lifting us back into the sky to drift through unraveling storm clouds and first morning light above the rumpled hills and arroyos of Northern New Mexico. It’s an adventure I wish I could keep in the present tense. It not only seemed the perfect way to spend a Mother’s Day morning but also a thrilling commemoration of another motherly milestone: my son Soren’s 18th birthday. “How about an early birthday present in the form of a hot air balloon ride?” I had asked him the night before. He had grinned and nodded emphatically. We awoke at 4:30 the next morning. After a night of rain and wind, the world was calm. Soren and I dressed and made coffee as the rest of the family slept. Then shortly before 5:30 a.m. we ventured out beneath a vast blanket of stars. We arrived at the launch site between Alcalde and Velarde moments before sunrise and watched as our pilot, Johnny Lewis, and his crew expertly unrolled the envelope, set the burner and attached the basket. Soren helped hold the envelope open and Lewis turned on a big red fan. Within seconds the balloon began to take shape in billowing colors, and when the envelope had opened wide enough, he fired up the burner. Crimson flames lifted the waves of fabric from the dust. Then it was time. Time to climb into the basket and rise toward cobblestone clouds set against the morning blue. Slanting light from the sunrise bathed the landscape in shades of gold, and the world rushed away from our feet. There were no words as we rose, just … awe. Nothing came between the sky and us. No scratched porthole window or riveted plane wing. Most surprising, however, was the quiet. Between warming blasts from the burner, we heard nothing. We moved with the breeze, what little there was, so the familiar tenor of wind was absent. With gentle grace and almost perfect silence, we were folded into the sky. Beneath us, the earth rolled on and it felt like we were standing still just witnessing the turning of a new day. Several minutes after take-off we heard it: thunder along the western horizon. What had started as a perfectly still morning began to change faster than I had ever seen, especially at such an early hour. Even as we watched, the horizon darkened to deep indigo, and our anticipated trajectory changed in a heartbeat. Lewis was on his radio with his crew the entire time, relaying information and receiving it in return. He read the signs expertly and pointed out that the rising wind would box us back to our launch site. Far away, on the black thread of highway, we watched the chase crew turn around and head back to the spot where we started. Working a set of ropes and the burner in symphony, Lewis lowered us back to earth. We snuck through the smallest window of time for a soft landing before the winds picked up and the sky opened. Five minutes after finding our feet, hail began pelting the dust. The storm was short-lived and broke in time for us to toast our short flight and enjoy a generous spread of sliced cheese, crackers (including Goldfish crackers, which Lewis referred to with a wink as “Texas sushi”) and cookies before going our separate ways back into the greater world as the terrestrial beings we ultimately are. But to fly—and to touch the fringe of what was impossible for so many generations of humankind—was, in the end, a perfect way to mark another milestone of motherhood for me. And the first chapter of adulthood for the boy who made me a mother.
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Johnny Lewis has been trying to outwit gravity his entire life. First there was the parachute he made out of bedsheets when he was six. Then when he was 12 he built a scrap-wood and cardboard airplane with a 24-foot wingspan, tied it to the family tractor and climbed aboard. “I got my buddy to pull it with the old Ford tractor,” he recalls, “and it went up about 30 feet.” Once the plane was airborne, however, Lewis couldn’t untie the knot connecting the plane to the tractor. It had been pulled too tight during lift off. The tail started to rise as he tried to work the knot free, and suddenly the plane nosedived right into the ground. Despite the rough landing, Lewis was unhurt and undeterred. “I just wanted to fly,” he says with a grin. A hot air balloon seemed the natural next step in his quest for flight. Developed in France in the late 1700s, fire-powered balloons gave humans their first view of the earth from above. Despite their antiquity, however, the technology of ballooning hadn’t evolved to modern-day standards by the time Lewis started looking into acquiring one. Until the late 1960s, balloons were used primarily by adventure seekers to set, and break, altitude and distance records. It was still a niche sport, and balloons were not yet commercially available. Lewis, by then in high school, decided to take matters into his own hands. He figured that since he’d already built an airplane, he’d just go ahead and make a balloon. He asked his father, a Baptist preacher, if he could pick up some fabric and charge it to the family account. Thinking he meant only a couple of yards, his dad said yes. All Lewis’s plans ground to a halt when he walked into the fabric store and tried to place an order for 1000 yards of taffeta. “It was such a small town, everyone knew everyone, so the people at the store called my father and he put a stop to that,” says Lewis. Refusing to relinquish his dream, Lewis tried a new approach when he got to college. He called his dad frequently with requests for extra money he claimed would be used to cover various school fees. Then he pocketed the money until he had enough to buy fabric and a sewing machine and learned to sew. In 1967, he unfurled his first balloon in an open field, and using a weed burner to inflate the envelope, he flew. “That was one of the first modern-day balloons,” he says, adding that around the country at the very same time, a handful of other aspiring balloon pilots had similar plans, and similar success. “We all got up in the air at about the same time,” says Lewis, “so nobody is really sure who did it first.” Regardless of who did, Lewis has been flying ever since. His balloon-making days are long over now, and he is regarded as one of the very best balloon pilots in the business. He’s flown for National Geographic (over the Pyramids in Egypt) and also for Hollywood (though most of the Crazy Heart footage he was in ended up on the cutting room floor). In addition to special projects, he runs Santa Fe Balloons from May through October, and anyone who wants to fly up, up, and away can do just that.
| Johnny Lewis of Santa Fe Balloons
Ready to cruise the clouds? Contact Santa Fe Balloons at (505)-6997555 or johnny@santafeballoons.com to schedule a ride May through October. In Northern New Mexico, a mecca for hot air ballooning, there are over a dozen companies that can take you for a ride. Most can be found on the internet. 22
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THE A RT OF OUTDOOR DINING Anglo American Anne et Valentin Beausoleil Lunettes Dolce & Gabbana Etnia Barcelona FACE a FACE
Ronit Fürst Gotti Switzerland i.c!berlin Lindberg Denmark Oliver Peoples Loree Rodkin 2.5 Eyephorics
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JUNE 2012
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s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E photos by LENNY FOSTER
the Taos Hum
In our new monthly column, Tania Casselle introduces us to the people who make Taos hum.
Karen Todd
Bruce Gomez
One day last summer I spotted Chef Karen Todd sitting at the huge wooden table in her Dragonfly Café and Bakery, peacefully sorting through piled-high baskets of heirloom tomatoes from that morning’s Taos Farmers’ Market. You could barely see the woman for the fruit, and as a vision of pastoral bounty it was hard to beat. Todd laughs when I remind her. “One of those local tomatoes grown in the sun …” she muses. “I don’t really have to do anything to it, and it makes me look like a rock star!” Todd previously worked in restaurants in her home city of Chicago and the rather more exotic Amsterdam. She cooked on boats on the Red Sea, bartended in London and Greece and did a stint on a Greek olive farm. Then, 15 years ago, she came to work a year in Taos Ski Valley. “I just kind of got caught,” says Todd. She opened Dragonfly Café in 1999, in a century-old adobe with an inviting patio. “I was six months pregnant when I opened,” she recalls, “and I look at my son now—he’s almost as tall as I am.” Todd and both her sons take full advantage of outdoor Taos. “I walk out my backdoor and I have the Carson National Forest, and I use it!” They ski and snowboard, ride dirt bikes, and go rafting. Todd also runs the ridgeline between San Cristobal and Lama several times a week. And she loves dancing. “I check out the world music that comes through town, either at KTAOS Solar Center or the Taos Inn,” she says. “For a tiny community, musically we do pretty well.” She started the café’s popular East Indian Night on Mondays ($17 per person), because “I love Indian food and I would have to drive to Santa Fe to get it.” Everything is made from scratch, from curry powder to chutneys. “Mole and Indian food,” says Todd. “Making those two things, I completely destroy my kitchen. So much grinding and so many ingredients!”
Bruce Gomez of Taos Pueblo is busy plotting the course for the 27th Taos Marathon on June 10. He’s directed the event since 1985, and, after a four-year hiatus, it’s back for 2012 with various races from a full marathon to a 5K walk or run. “Right now I’m anticipating probably 75 to 100 participants,” says Gomez, adding that the small scale adds to the attraction. “That’s been one of the neat things; you can go to huge running events with thousands of people. This is just a nice, quiet event.” Gomez, who is also a photographer, is a four-time Santa Fe Indian Market “Best of Photography” winner, best known for landscapes and images of Taos Pueblo. “I do a lot of quiet images, and I’m trying to shoot things that are more simple,” he says. “Last year I did a lot of images when we were at the beach of sand, how the water meets the sand.” His photographic interests range far and wide. On a trip to Paris, Gomez was inspired by the St. Germain area’s famous church and Les Deux Magots café: “One night I took a walk out there and took images of the nightlife.” He also shoots action photos and soon will be heading with his camera to the U.S. Olympic Team Trials in Eugene, Oregon. Back home, Gomez lives a quiet life. In addition to working as a running coach at Taos High School and teaching health classes and Native American studies, he enjoys hanging out with family— sometimes down by the Rio Grande, a favorite location to shoot. “I love to photograph water,” he says. “Anything with water is just beautiful.” He’s clearly proud of the younger generation of Pueblo photographers, praising the work by the Taos Pueblo Day School Photo Club on display at the Taos Community Auditorium Encore Gallery until June 10. In fact, he’s quick to support all the Pueblo arts and crafts people. “Go to the pueblo,” he urges, “and there’s a lot of amazing artists that you don’t really hear about. You’d be surprised at some of the potters and painters, the bead work and moccasins.”
Dragonfly Café and Bakery, 402 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. 575-737-5859. www.dragonflytaos.com.
See Taos Marathon details at http://taosmarathon.weebly.com. 24
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 2012
25
intage V
story by PHILIP DE GIVE
Albuquerque
P
ull out your calendars, if you haven’t already, and highlight Wednesday, June 20, through Saturday, June 23, as the food and wine event of the year in Albuquerque. Vintage Albuquerque hits town with four days of do-not-miss events. In the past, the event was a benefit for the New Mexico Symphony Orchestra, but with the Orchestra’s demise in 2011, there has been a re-organization. Now, Vintage Albuquerque is an independent non-profit organization with a focus on Youth Arts in Albuquerque. The beneficiary charities will be the Albuquerque Museum Foundation, the Albuquerque Youth Symphony, APS Fine Arts programs, NDI and the Popejoy School Time Program.
On Wednesday, Vintage Albuquerque kicks off with an Opening Night Gala Dinner at Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro, featuring the cuisine of guest chefs Neal Fraser of Grace Restaurant in Los Angeles, Derek Emerson of Walker’s Drive-In in Jackson, Mississippi, and the wines of Au Bon Climat and vintner Jim Clendenen. Clenendon definitely fits the bill as “rock star” winemaker and has made his winery famous primarily sourcing grapes from the Bien Nacido vineyard in Santa Maria, but also from Sta. Rita Hills, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara County. His Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays impress wine lovers for their rich Central Coast flavors yet have a balance and finesse usually found only in the wines of Burgundy. As a result, Clendenen is a darling of the European wine press, collecting awards and accolades from many publications and organizations over there. If you live outside Albuquerque, this meal alone should make the event worth a trip. On Thursday, take your pick of ten wine dinners being offered around town. Talk about a quandry! The Cabernet lover will try to decide between Plumpjack and Cade at Seasons Rotisserie or Robert Craig at Savoy Bar & Grill. Washington State will be represented with Kiona Vineyards at Marcello’s Chophouse, and D’Arenberg Cellars will show how Australia is making a comeback with its premium selections at Prairie Star. Pinot Noir aficionados will go to Fourque Kitchens and drink the wines from Arcadian. If you can’t decide between Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, go to dinner at Bien Shur restaurant at the Sandia Casino and taste Willamette’s Archery Summit Pinot and Napa’s Pine Ridge Cabernet. Julian Martinez, wine buyer at Artichoke Café, will pair wines with Trefethen Vineyards’ Rieslings, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet. He says the wines “are as good as ever, well structured, and not overly ripe. We will provide unusual pairings with dishes prepared with local produce.” Ferrari Carano of Sonoma at Brasserie La Provence and the international selection of Hess Estates at The Ranchers Club round out the list. And if you need a break from wine, Chama River has the bargain dinner with their excellent The Golden Hour micro-brews. When day is done, many Victoria Martinez Rogers winemakers refresh their palate and 53” x 41” outlook with beer! 26
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If your dinner pick is sold out, you will still be able to taste a variety of dishes from 30 restaurants and wines from 30 wineries at the Friday Fiesta at the National Hispanic Cultural Center. Wineries and wholesalers bring in new releases and vintages, and the location and opportunity to taste fine food and wines are perfect. Aaron Crespin, local representative of Crawford Malone Fine Wines, has done this event for seven years and had this to say about the venue: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spanish missionaries planted grapes over 350 years ago in what is now the state of New Mexico (before California), and the aesthetic experience of the center, with its art and history exhibits, reflects that special heritage. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great venue for the Friday Fiesta.â&#x20AC;? My itinerary at that event would include a tasting at Crespinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s table, where there will be a full selection of wines from California, Oregon, and Spain. I would also visit with Joe Davis, owner and winemaker of Arcadian Winery, who spent time making wine at Morgan Winery and managing at Bernardus Winery. He can describe the making of a wine at every step in its production: from the rain that the vines received and its specific effect on the salts in the soil to the wineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fermentation and evolution in the bottle. Five minutes with him is an education in wine from the Central Coast of California, where he has spent most of his life. Finally, Saturday night has the Big Event: Auction and Dinner at Prairie Star in Bernalillo. This restaurant is one of my favorite wine and food destinations anywhere. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beautiful spot to taste wines and enjoy the unparalleled view of Sandia Mountains and the Rio Grande Bosque. Why not do some of your gift-purchasing in one spot while doing something you love, tasting great wine? If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still not sure about attending, I quote Aaron Crespin again: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vintage Albuquerque offers something special. They are able to attract winery principals and winemakers, include the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants and retailers, and show off the best of the wine world and the restaurant world. They really pull it off.â&#x20AC;? At the time of reporting this article, the lists of wines being shown at the tastings were still being assembled and the dinner menus finetuned. By now, everything should be set, and seating at dinners is always limited. Visit www. vintagealbuquerque.org online, check out the events, make your reservations and buy tickets!
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 2012
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| Chef and Owner Toyin Oladeji
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S
ome people come for the goat, but Toyin Oladeji doesn’t have a favorite. “I like all of my food,” she laughs, and that makes sense. Because while some of the offerings at Oladeji’s new eatery are unlike anything Albuquerqueans can find within city limits, to her, every dish on the menu tastes like home. Talking Drums is Albuquerque’s only African restaurant. It fulfills the dreams of locals who have been pleading with the powers that be for food from the continent. Featuring West African fare along with a few Caribbean options, Talking Drums is the place to get everything from more exotic dishes like oxtail and moin moin to more familiar fried plantain.
Although Oladeji’s nearly 75-item menu boasts a number of popular dishes, it’s the goat that lures in many of her patrons, she says. The Caribbeaninspired curried goat gets plenty of hits, but the West African goat meat pepper soup is the star. Ribbons of thick-cut halal goat with the skin still attached marinate in a simple but savory broth pricked with red and black pepper. Beware: This goat is hot. It’s so hot, in fact, that Oladeji’s menu warns browsing patrons that it’s not for the faint of tongue. Maybe it’s due partly to the release of endorphins, but this 16-ounce soup is also highly addictive. The jerk chicken is another customer standby. So tender it practically melts when touched, it’s rubbed with enough spice—peppers, pimento seeds, thyme and scallion—to make it a palate-sizzler, although the bed of white rice it comes with helps cut the heat. The trick to this exceptionally soft bird is in the waiting. The meat is well marinated before it’s cooked and the result is smoky, juicy and spicy. All of Oladeji’s dishes are authentic, but there is one defining difference between her menu and traditional African offerings: Vegetarians can find plenty to sate themselves. “Africans are meat lovers,” she says with a smile. Even vegetable-based items are usually laced with meat, and she says her family members will look at her funny if she puts a plate in front of them that doesn’t have a side of meat. But to appease American appetites and an increasingly complex array of dietary needs and desires, she’s made many menu items veggie-friendly. Take the stewed red beans, for example, a dish accompanied by fried plantain, which injects the perfect touch of sweetness into a salty, tomatoey paste. The ogbono soup is mango seed, dried and grounded into a powder then steamed with spices. Every soup also comes with a selection of fufu (typically made out of grains that are powdered or starchy vegetables which are kneaded into a dough and shaped into a variety of forms): amala, eba, pounded yam, plantain, cocoyam, rice balls or semolina. While Talking Drums’ menu doesn’t include dessert, there is some sweeter fare. Puff puffs are pieces of deep-fried sweet dough, served piping hot on a platter. A cross between donut holes and beignets but with about a quarter of the sugar, they’re a nice way to start or end a meal. The drink menu lists plenty of tropical fruit juices, sodas, teas and coffees, including a ginger beer that will remind you what the potent potion is supposed to taste like. Talking Drums has only been open since February, but its sister business, Zenith African/Caribbean Market, has been around for nearly 12 years. Oladeji opened the grocery store after she moved here from Canada, where she lived for ten years after leaving western Nigeria. It was curiosity, Oladeji says, that took her to Canada and then a job that brought her to Albuquerque. Even though she’s now the owner of two businesses, she still works a day job as a registered nurse. The idea for Zenith emerged when she couldn’t find any African food or ingredients in Albuquerque. “My partner and I used to drive to Texas for African food,” she says. She soon realized there was a market for a store that stocked those ingredients—along with traditional African fabrics and clothing—and Zenith was born. Talking Drums was a seed that bloomed faster than Oladeji expected. Her original plan was to move story by CHRISTIE CHISHOLM her store, previously on San Mateo, to a larger space, one that would accommodate four or six tables for photos by GABRIELLA MARKS a small café. But then she stumbled onto a great deal at her current space, on the corner of San Pedro
| Toyin and daugther, Loretta Oyeyemi
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JUNE 2012
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and Gibson. The large stand-alone building has three giant rooms. Zenith is tucked into one, and the other two house the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 20-odd tables. The decor is sparse for now, with African tablecloths and a few prints of African scenes hung on the walls. And while the place is by no means packed yet, Oladeji says in her four months in business, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s had more customers than she expected. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gotten great responses from those diners and hopes patronage will continue to swell. Another area of growth Oladeji looks to is her menu. Most items are West Nigerian and Ghanian, but sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to add some East African cuisine as well. But with a staff solely comprised of her friend, his children and Oladejiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own children, the addition may take some time. All of the recipes are Oladejiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re mainly dishes she makes at home. But she enjoys cooking at the restaurant more than she does in her personal life, she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I hated cooking growing up,â&#x20AC;? she laughs. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There were ten of us in the house. We took turns.â&#x20AC;? She still didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like it when she had children and started cooking for them, â&#x20AC;&#x153;because they prefer junk food.â&#x20AC;? At the restaurant, though, where people come to seek out her cooking, she loves it. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I like to cook for those who want it,â&#x20AC;? she says. Oladejiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite part of the business, though, is in the aftermath of her cooking, watching people learn about and appreciate African cuisine. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love when people eat fufu with their hands,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I like to see people empty their plates. It excites me a lot.â&#x20AC;? Talking Drums is an Albuquerque gem with room to grow, but Oladeji looks forward to the process. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I know weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re getting there,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It feels like a mission almost accomplished.â&#x20AC;?
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Talking Drums is located at 1218 San Pedro SE in Albuquerque. 505.792.3221. They are open Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. www.talkingdrumsabq.com.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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s t o r y b y K E L LY K O E P K E
T
he exceptional quality of our skies is a significant part of the reason we love New Mexico. Our days are bluer, our moon shines brighter and our stars sparkle with a clarity not found in many other places. Turns out, what we all sense is actually true: There is something different about the sky here. Especially the night sky.
“Because we don’t have large cities everywhere, we have less light and air pollution,” says Peter Lipscomb, of Astronomy Adventures. “We think about what is valuable in the aesthetic of our night skies here. In fact, we passed a state law in 1999, the New Mexico Night Sky Protection Act, which has been augmented over the years by local municipalities, to help preserve the cultural, aesthetic and scientific value of our night skies.” Our higher elevation plays a role, too, allowing us to get above the particulates that hover at lower altitudes. What that means for the ordinary person is an extraordinary ability to commune with the nocturnal heavens in a way that’s enviable to those in other places. Taking advantage of yet another benefit of living in New Mexico is also surprisingly easy and affordable. Just look up! Seriously, with the help of several organizations and companies, accessing both the night skies and experts who are eager to share their knowledge, is child’s play for aspiring astronomers. Taos Ski Valley offers free full-moon hikes to Williams Lake several times each summer. Because the full moon provides so much light, these hikes aren’t for stargazing. Still, hiking in moonlight is spectacular. Check with the Taos Sky Valley Chamber of Commerce for dates, times and what to bring on the four-mile round trip hike, led by Taos Sky Valley mayor, Neal King. The aforementioned Astronomy Adventures offers educational and entertaining guided night sky tours as a way to experience the glory of the celestial vault at a location south of Santa Fe. Tours, which include access to a professional quality telescope, are scheduled year-round on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday nights. (Check their online calendar for nights that are closed because of the full moon or because of tours already at capacity.)
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> The Milky Way arch emerging in the night sky. Image produced by European Southern Observatory (ESO)
© Tatyana Chernyak | Dreamstime.com
“What I get to do is help people reconnect with something familiar and want to know more about, says Lipscomb, who operates Astronomy Adventures. “Because textbook knowledge is different than real life experience, it’s a real pleasure for me to see the sense of wonder and enjoyment. It’s almost unreal to see the rings of Saturn, for example.” For those farther north, Geoff Goins, owner of Night Sky Adventures, in Red River, provides both stargazing tours and moonlight hikes at Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area. Goins also arranges private tours at your location on an availability basis. (Check the website for a schedule.) Goins, who will be conducting an observation of the June 5 transit of Venus between Earth and the sun at the Wild Rivers Recreation Area (north of Questa), recently returned from a stint as an Astronomy Ranger at Bryce Canyon National Park. Like Lipscomb, Goins has years of interpretive experience and offers both an educational, entertaining tour of the universe from close in (planets) and far away (galaxies, nebulae and other astronomical curiosities). “What’s great is that you’re seeing objects all with your own eyes through the telescope, and experiencing the actual photons of light from the actual object,” says Goins. “That makes a huge impact on people when seeing them. It’s that connection you have with a galaxy 30 million light years away, at a time when there were still dinosaurs on Earth. And with my 24inch telescope, you see images that look like photographs, with your own eye.” Note: That’s one big ’scope! Both Astronomy Adventures and Night Sky Adventures charge for their tours. Several astronomy clubs coordinate free excursions and viewing experiences, too. El Valle Astronomers, a nonprofit club in the Embudo/Dixon area, holds free, monthly star parties on the Saturday closest to the quarter and new moons. The group also organizes treks to Wild Rivers Recreational Area > Map of the Moon engraved by Polish astronomer Johannes Hevelius (1611–1687) and sites near Truchas Peak. Lee Mesibov, president of El Valle Astronomers, loves the star parties. “Everyone brings their own telescope or enjoys the telescopes of others, because we’re all happy to show off the view!” he says. “And it’s great for kids. One of the highlights for us is to introduce kids to enjoying the night sky, especially in summer time when it’s warm.” The Albuquerque Astronomical Society holds its free monthly star parties on the second Saturday of the month at the Oak Flat Picnic Ground/Juniper Loop, south of Tijeras.
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The event begins at dusk, but the gates open several hours earlier. With a truly amazing array of telescopes, members of TAAS are more than happy to talk about the night sky. In addition, TAAS has a telescope loaner program for members and operates its own observatory near Belen, available to TAAS members and their guests. TAAS members can use both observatory domes, operate telescopes in a variety of sizes and styles, and produce their own digital pictures of distant celestial objects. The Pajarito Astronomers coordinate monthly events at the Abrams Planetarium, in Los Alamos. This group’s “dark night” observing sessions are held at Overlook Park, in White Rock, and they offer public talks about space science, astronomy and astrophysics at the planetarium, too. Check the Los Alamos Monitor, listen to KRSN-1490 AM or visit the Pajarito Astronomers’ site for more information. For indoor planetarium experiences, both the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science, in Albuquerque, and Santa Fe Community College offer astronomical programming. SFCC’s programs include one on backyard astronomy that features a presentation of the current sky above us with outdoor viewing (weather permitting), as well as how to use binoculars to explore the universe. Now turn off the lights and look up at the night sky. It’s time to be a night explorer!
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Sanbusco Market Center at the Railyard Santa Fe 505-989-4742 www.santafepens.com
Taos Ski Valley Full Moon Hikes www.taosskivalley.com 575-776-1413
Astronomy Adventures, Albuquerque/Santa Fe www.astronomyadventures.com 505-577-7141
Night Sky Adventures, Red River www.nightskyadventures.com 575-770-2431
Hey, Albuquerque, have breakfast with localflavor! Find us at these local favorites... Annapurna
The Albuquerque Astronomical Society
Daily Grind
www.taas.org 505-254-8227
Donut Mart
El Valle Astronomers, Dixon
Downtown Java Joe’s
www.elvalleastronomers.com Email griggs2000@hotmail.com to be added to their email list
Flying Star Friends Café
The Pajarito Astronomers, Los Alamos www.unm.edu/~tbeach/pajarito.html Club events are announced in the Los Alamos Monitor and on KRSN-1490
Santa Fe Community College Planetarium
Frontier Green Café Grove Market Café Range Café
www.sfcc.edu/planetarium
Satellite Coffee
New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science www.nmnaturalhistory.org/planetarium
Sophia’s Place Winning Coffee
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contact Leslie Davis at 505.933.1345 or leslie@localflavomagazine.com
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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story by TORI LEE
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thnic cooking is everyday home cooking somewhere in the world. Take an exotic road trip through Spain, the Middle East, Thailand and India. Combine specialty international ingredients with farmers’ market fresh foods to cook up a memorable meal for family and friends. Each local store featured is equipped with the necessary ingredients, equipment and expertise to assist thrill-seeking home chefs willing to try these quick, fun and flexible recipes. Talin Market offers just about every conceivable item necessary to cook just about any dish from anywhere in the world. Sauces, oils, teas, Chinese herbal formulas, cookware and thousands of ingredients are readily available. If the store doesn’t carry it, perhaps you should not eat it. The website offers how-to articles and recipes. Feeling up to a challenge? Register for the Talin World Chef challenge. Talin Market will announce the three mystery ingredients and the type of dish required; the rest is up to you. A new contest begins every two weeks throughout the summer.
Tom Kha Gai (Creamy and Tangy Chicken Soup) Serves 6
| Lemon Grass
1 can coconut milk 8 cups water or unsalted chicken stock 1 stalk lemon grass, cut into 4-5 pieces 4 oz galanga (Thai spicy ginger root), sliced 5 kaffir lime leaves, bruised 8 oz straw mushrooms 8 Tablespoons fish sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 ½ pounds chicken breast, sliced into bite-size pieces 1 small white or yellow onion, julienned Juice of 1 lime 1 teaspoon chili in oil paste Sprigs of sweet basil for garnishing Bring the water to a boil in a pot. Add the coconut milk, lemon grass, galanga and lime leaves. Bring mixture to a boil again and cook for 15-30 minutes. Add fish sauce, salt, sugar, chicken, onion and straw mushrooms. Bring pot to a boil again. Add lime juice and chili paste. Serve with Thai jasmine rice and a basil garnish. Talin Market World Food Fare, 88 Louisiana Blvd SE, Albuquerque, 505.268.0206. www.talinmarket.com.
| Coriander and Curry
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Barbara Nass at The Spice Lady carries a worldwide selection of hundreds of spices, herbs, salts and teas, as well as local chiles. Spices are available by the ounce to allow for culinary experimentation on a budget. Many of the spices and teas are organic. All merchandise for sale in the shop is fair trade or made in the U.S. Barbara has long been intrigued by the taste and smell of spices and the role the spice trade played in world history. Though some spices were once priced higher than gold, such is no longer the case in her shop.
Baharat with Dukkous Al-Tamat (Mixed Spices with Tomato Sauce)
Ziggy’s International Market carries a wide variety of foods, teas and personal care products from India and the Middle East, as well as some Latin American offerings and gourmet European chocolate bars. Home chefs looking for a quick vegetarian option need look no further. Ziggy’s offers a mushroom curry dish using products from the Rani brand name that is ready to serve in only 15 minutes. Begin with fresh mushrooms. Experiment with seasoning to achieve the desired level of heat.
Rani Mushroom Curry Serves 4 Heat Level: Medium 2 Tablespoons Rani ghee or vegetable oil 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger 1 onion, chopped 1 Tablespoon Rani curry powder ½ teaspoon Rani mustard seeds ½ pound button mushrooms, halved ½ pound portabella mushrooms, sliced 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon Rani garam masala ½ cup coconut milk 2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice Heat oil in non-stick frying pan. Add garlic, ginger and onion. Stir on medium heat until onion softens. Stir in curry powder and mustard seeds. Add mushrooms and salt. Cook for 5 minutes. Add coconut milk and garam masala. Cook for 4-5 minutes until coconut milk thickens. Stir in lemon juice. Garnish with cilantro springs. Ziggy’s International Market, 1005 Pen Road (St. Francis at Cerrillos Road) Santa Fe, 505.986-5054.
Anna Enriquez, manager of The Spanish Table, has taken a page out of Steve Winston’s book by the same name. Romesco is a sauce from the Catalan region of Spain. This sauce is infinitely variable, can be as hot and spicy as desired and is a perfect use for homegrown tomatoes or Northern New Mexico chiles. The Spanish Table sells Romesco by the jar.
Romesco (Spanish Tomato and Red Pepper Sauce) Prep time 30 minutes 4-5 nora peppers, re-hydrated with boiling water (can substitute 4 tbsp sweet pimenton) 1 small red guindilla pepper (cayena) if desired 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for frying 1 slice to 1/3 cup stale bread 1 clove garlic, roughly chopped 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt ¼ cup almonds or hazelnuts or pine nuts (can substitute walnuts) 1 tomato, peeled and seeded (Roasting tomato adds depth to sauce.) 1 sprig parsley (optional) 1 Tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar (optional) 4 Tablespoons reserved liquid from nora peppers Cover nora peppers with water and bring to boil. Allow to steep for 30 minutes. Reserving the liquid, remove stems and seeds while saving flesh and skin. Fry nuts in olive oil until brown. Remove with slotted spoon. Fry stale bread in olive oil, adding more oil if necessary. Put garlic and salt in mortar and blend together with a pestle. Or put in food processor and give them several bursts. If making spicy Romesco, add hot pepper. Add cooled nuts with bread and grind. Add nora peppers and blend in. If using parsley, add now. If using tomato, add now. Season with a splash of vinegar. If serving with vegetables, add a bit more vinegar. If serving with fish, omit vinegar. If sauce is too thick, add a splash of extra-virgin olive oil. As with all sauces, running the sauce through a food processor yields a smoother, more sophisticated product. Leave it chunky for cocina pobre. The Spanish Table, 109 N. Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe, 505.986-0243. www.spanishtable.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
Baharat (Mixed Spices) Makes about 2 cups ½ cup black peppercorns ¼ cup coriander seeds ¼ cup cassia bark ¼ cup cloves 1/3 cup cumin seeds 2 teaspoons cardamom seeds 4 whole nutmegs ½ cup ground paprika Place peppercorns, coriander seeds, cassia bark, cloves, cumin and cardamom seeds in blender and grind to a powder. It may be necessary to combine whole ingredients and grind ½ cup of mixture at a time.
Dukkous al-Tamat (Tomato Sauce) 1 Tablespoon oil 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed 1 ½ pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 ½ teaspoons baharat Salt to taste Heat oil in pan. Add crushed garlic. Cook only for a few seconds. Add tomatoes; salt to taste. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. Add baharat. Cook with lid off 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat. Serve with rice. May be rubbed on ground meats, lamb, chicken or fish before grilling, also suitable as a marinade on roast. The Spice Lady, 509 Cordova Road, Santa Fe, 505.471-3833. www. thespiceladysantafe.com.
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Photos: © Dreamstime.com Anupan Supanusorn, Robyn Mackenzie, Nicoleta Raftu and Juan Moyano
| Nora Peppers
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STORE HOURS: Monday – Saturday, 10am – 6pm Sunday, 11am – 4pm Donations accepted during store hours.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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