A TASTE OF LIFE IN NEW MEXICO
NOVEMBER 2015
SANTA FE ALBUQUERQUE TAOS
Meow Wolf
Elle Well Yoga & Holistic Center
La Fogata Grill is bringing fresh and unique flavors from Latin America to Santa Fe. From authentic creations to classic dishes, La Fogata Grill is serving up the best flavors from Mexico, Central America and New Mexico with new daily specials. Come join us for hot chocolate and winter tamales!
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Daily yoga classes now offered. New to the studio? Your first class is FREE! 933 Baca Street Suite C 505-629-3116 Book Online
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INSIDE:
The Buzz by Kelly Koepke 10
What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not—that’s the buzz!
Art Buzz by Kelly Koepke 12
New and noteworthy in the galleries—Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos.
Meow Wolf by Gail Snyder 14
What’s all the excitement about? Who are these people, anyway? And what in the world are they doing over there at the bowling alley....
Our Valley, Our Story by Stan Crawford 20
The village of Dixon, long known as a welcoming place for art and artists, has just unveiled a 40-foot-long ceramic mural capturing the rich history and cultural uniqueness of the area. Local Flavor is proud to bring you the story of this major work of public art in the heart of the Embudo Valley.
El Meson by Gordon Bunker 25
Chef David Huertas serves up the cuisine of Spain—and its vibrant nightlife! It’s all about the marcha....
Habitat:
Exploring Climate Change Through the
Arts by Emily Beenen 30
Suzanne Sbarge, the gutsy owner of 516 Arts, puts Albuquerque in the mix of an international art movement addressing climate change.
Backstreet Bistro by Melyssa Holik 35
It’s more than great soup; it’s more than comfort food....it’s family.
ON OUR COVER: Ash, the dog, Chris Anderson, Geoff Banzhof, Brandon Behning, Chris Beran, Sheldon Bess, Dylan Blanchard, Corvas Brinkerhoff, Leo Brown, Chris Clavio, William Coburn, Mat Crimmins, Sarah Dallas, Justin Di Ianni, DeeDee Downs, Justin Erland, Chadney Everett, Matt Fernandez, Benji Geary, Paul Groetzinger, Jeremiah Harmon, Asher Haven, Chris Hilson, Emmanuelle John, Jeremy Johnson, Vince Kadlubek, Lindsey Kennedy, Matt King, Betsy Leonard, Trinity Lopez, Emily Markwiese, Brian Mayhall, Dave McPherson, Chris Miller, Emily Montoya, Diane Moreno, Golda Blaise Pickett, Oliver Polzin, Zevin Polzin, Frank Ragano, Megan Roniger, Nico Salazar, Wylla Skye, Jake Snider, Maggie Thornton, Tome Jo Trujillo, Charles Tuttle, Amy Westphal, Cole Wilson and Ben Wright. The 30-foot kinetic robot sculpture was created by Christian Ristow of Taos.
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Bocadillos Slow Roasted by Stephanie Hainsfurther 38
A tiny sandwich shop with a very big heart reaches out to its neighborhood to make a difference.
Local Favorite of the Month by Mia Rose Poris 42
The Santa Fe School of Cooking and four celebrated Santa Fe chefs lovingly prepare a dinner for one of Santa Fe’s most cherished charities— Cooking With Kids.
Still Hungry? by Caitlin Richards 44
Here’s your chance to cook like a celebrity on Thanksgiving. Three bigname chefs, Todd Hall of Julia, Edgar Morales of Red Sage and Tony Smith of The Old House share their favorite holiday recipe.
! w o n t Ac ited Lim ents m aparteft! l
Coming to Rio Rancho
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NOVEMBER 2015
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Thanksgiving All Day! • 11am-9pm Live Saxophone Music Traditional Thanksgiving fare as well as Brazilian Churrasco All You Can Eat: $35.95 Reserve Early 1005 S. St. Francis Drive at Cerrillos between Susan’s & Tiny’s 505-780-5483 omiragrill.com •
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FIND GREAT FALL VALUES AT THE FOLLOWING HERITAGE HOTELS: Eldorado Hotel & Spa | Hotel St. Francis | Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe | Lodge at Santa Fe | Nativo Lodge Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town | Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces | Palacio de Marquesa Taos | El Monte Sagrado
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
NOVEMBER 2015
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LETTER
M
eow Wolf...who are these people and what in the world are they doing at the bowling alley? And, hey, where did that monstrous robot come from? Well, if you haven’t been listening to the chatter around town, it’s certainly time to listen up and take notice now—and what better way to get your attention than putting them smack dab on the cover. Writer Gail Snyder dubbed the
arts production collaborative, “Vince and his band of merry pranksters.” And that is how we want you to meet and know them as well. Vince Kadlubek (unofficial spokesperson and one of Meow Wolf ’s founders) will no doubt be giving interviews on every media platform imaginable in the coming months, but we hope that the story in Local Flavor will be the one you will remember most. Because ultimately, the true success of this madcap venture will not be what Meow Wolf invents, creates, reimagines or dazzles us with, but rather the impact it will have on the working lives of the young Santa Feans who have put their heart and their future into this venture. But Meow Wolf is not the only grand venture afoot right now. Head to Albuquerque, where Suzanne Sbarge, fearless gallery owner of 516 Arts on Central, has mounted a city-wide collaboration of artitsts, musicians, theatre troupes and museums to explore the issues of environmental change through the perspective of artists. Its title is HABITAT: Exploring Climate Change Through the Arts, and you will be amazed at the scope of the project. Suzanne did not stop at the local level—she has even linked HABITAT to the international art incentive, ArtCOP21. Also this month, we pay tribute to two restaurants, Back Street Bistro in Santa Fe and Bocadillos Slow Roasted in Albuquerque. Both have achieved the status of true hometown favorites. So many restaurants make the claim; these two live it every day—in the food they make, the people on their team and the community of diners who affectionately call the place “my second home.” As always, there’s much, much more in the issue, but now, no more distractions––just sit back and savor the flavor.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
NOVEMBER 2015
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the BUZZ
and waffle donuts, Albuquerque’s Rebel Donut certainly breaks the mold when it comes to breakfast confections. The shop also gained fame for its signature Breaking Time Out, the online guide to Bad-themed ‘Blue Sky’ variety, which was entertainment, dining and art, endorsed by the show’s stars themselves.” has named Farina Pizzeria & With two locations (2435 Wyoming Blvd. Wine Bar No. 17 in the country NE and 9311 Coors Blvd. NW), Mettling’s for its pizza. We agree! Says the got herself a donut empire. Walter White site, “Any Albuquerque restaurant would be proud. worth a line out the door has to offer green chiles, and Farina is The Outpost no exception—the spicy local Performance obsession is available as an Space is where optional add-on to any of the you want to be restaurant’s pizzas. The owners November 8 for trained with Brian Spangler Gabrielle Louise of Apizza Scholls in Portland and Justin Evan before opening in 2008; their Thompson in thin-crust pies get their signature concert. Two char from a two-minute stint in outstanding and an 800-degree oven.” Kudos, Farina for showcasing how diverse songwriters, good pizza can be in the Duke City! Gabrielle Louise and Justin Evan | Gabrielle Louise All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. Thompson will Or so says Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro on November 7, present a set of their original material, as with a bourbon tasting where you can find your favorite well as sing a duet or two together. The as you sip an Old Fashioned to start and then sample four evening will also serve as the CD-release more bourbons paired with five courses of food. Or make party for Justin’s long-awaited debut record, your own libations on November 21, when Michael Hymns for a Manchild. Gabrielle hails Trujillo of Southern Wine & Spirits hosts a fun and from the Mountains outside of Boulder. Of instructional “class” where you enjoy five courses of food Gabrielle’s original music and performance, and beverages. Seating is limited for both events, so call David McGee, New York City music critic, 505.254.ZINC to reserve your spot. says, “She executes a captivating balance of heartache and resolve.” Thompson is a Looking for that perfect cup of tea? Curious about olive songwriter and performer from Albuquerque oils and balsamic vinegars? Hunting for that perfect gift? with an affinity for traditional folk music (The holidays are coming…) Check out Figments Tea and the acoustic guitar. His persona and Shoppe and Gallery, 8510 Montgomery Blvd NE (in lyrics are as poetic as they are rough around the Target Shopping Center). Owner Diane Daniels the edges, and both lend themselves to recently expanded her selections of olive oils, light honest and energetic performances. With and dark balsamic vinegars, and bread dipping sauces, an instinctive knack for melody and prose, to complement her assortment of over 150 loose-leaf Justin’s songs are as singable as they are teas, tea and olive oil accoutrements. Classes on using poignant. Tickets at brownpapertickets.com. vinegars, olive oils and all things tea, too, can be found at figmentsteashoppe.com. The Placitas Artist Series presents Willy Sucre & Friends and String Quartets The Last Call, Nob Hill’s dinner and late-night Baja by Felix Mendelssohn and Joaquin Mexican-style burrito and taco joint is opening a Turina. Violist Willy Sucre will be joined Downtown location. Owner Luis Enrique Valdovinos by pianist Ivonne Figueroa, violinist has lines out the door in Nob Hill, especially after the Guillermo Figueroa and cellist Joanna bars close, serving portable snacks that students, concert de Keyser November 15 at 3 p.m. And goers and other revelers can eat on the way home. before you enjoy the concert at Las Placitas The 5th and Central location will join the Nob Hill Presbyterian Church, attend the artist location as one of the few post-1-a.m. eateries in town. reception at 2 p.m., featuring Elizabeth Plans also include expanding offerings and opening for Bogard, acrylic painting, collage, watercolor lunch. Watch their and mixed media; Vicki Bolen, mixed Facebook page for more on an opening media and paper arts; Laura Robbins, mosaics and cast glass works; and Dennie date, etc. York, pen and ink. The works are for sale, You may have heard and on display through November 27. More on the artists and tickets to the concert at that Christophe Descarpentries sold PlacitasArtistsSeries.org. P’tit Louis Bistro in Mark your calendars for November 19 and Nob Hill, wanting get your tickets now for internationally to devote more time renowned Chilean-American author Isabel to his family and his Allende, who visits Albuquerque for a passion for pétanque conversation with KUNM radio reporter, (sort of the French Carol Boss. Allende will explore her new version of bocce). romance novel set in the intrigue of World The new owner War II, The Japanese Lover. Tickets to the Dave Montoya, is | P’tit Louis carrying on with the delicious traditional French menu, so lovers of fois gras and coq au vin can still enjoy them with a glass of wine. Montoya’s got some cooking cred; he’s a former wine bar and bistro owner in Colorado, and is running the restaurant with his daughter Marisa Montoya. So, au revoir Christophe and bienvenue Dave! Good to know that P’tit Louis will remain the delightful destination it always was.
event to benefit the Albuquerque Public Library Foundation (go libraries!) are at bkwrks.com/allende-tickets, and include a signed hardcover of the book. Or call Bookworks at 505.344.8139.
b y K E L LY K O E P K E
Photo: Gabriella Marks
ALBUQUERQUE
Kudos to Carrie Mettling and the crew at Rebel Donut for snagging the title “best bakery in New Mexico” in a new ranking of the top bakeries in every state by Business Insider and Foursquare. According to the story, “From maple bacon to cherry lemonade to chicken
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More on the books, and this one you can eat from. Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center hosts Lynn Cline, author of The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes & Tales from New Mexico, for a cooking
demonstration on November 15. Cline chronicles the history of New Mexico cuisine through the stories of 12 iconic figures from Fred Harvey and Billy the Kid to Georgia O’Keeffe and Dennis Hopper. These trailblazers include artists and authors, gamblers and outlaws, entrepreneurs and the ancient Pueblo people, all of whom had a hand in shaping the region’s celebrated cuisine. Each story is inspired by history—fictional imaginings of a day or a moment in the remarkable lives of these mavericks. Each chapter includes original recipes with authentic ingredients and traditional techniques of the era. Guy Ambrosino’s beautiful photographs capture the timelessness of the foods featured in the book, bringing the recipes to life in rich, vibrant color that will inspire you to make each dish at home. Visit lospoblanos.com for details.
Photo: Kate Russell
SANTA FE Three cheers for 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar, for ranking No. 10 in Gayot.com’s Top 10 wine bars in the United States. According to the article, “Along with 400 wines by the bottle and 25 by the glass, 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Santa Fe offers a ‘One and Only’ selection (a solo bottle of each in stock). At the bar, | Louis Moskow of 315 guests can order from a separate menu of $8 plates, including shrimp and grits.” Yep, that sounds about right, plus there’s the amazing food from Chef Louis Moskow and staff and the adorable setting and delightful service. Read more at gayot.com.
| Adrian Cabral, Manager at Luminaria
A warm welcome to Adrian Cabral, the new Restaurant Manager at Luminaria Restaurant and the Living Room Lounge at the Inn and Spa at Loretto. Adrian brings with him an impressive portfolio of experience: restaurant manager and lead sommelier at Prairie Star, and positions at Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center, Scalo Northern Italian Grill and Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi. Cabral’s a certified sommelier and true culinary professional dedicated to bringing his own unique aesthetic to the Inn’s already acclaimed dining experiences. We look forward to meeting him soon! A warm welcome back to chef/owners Robert and Marge Chickering to Galisteo Bistro. They’ve repurchased the restaurant, making extensive renovations and plan to reopen around Thanksgiving. For returning patrons, it will be a homecoming, as many will recognize staff members and menu items. Rob emails, “We shall include all our signature dishes, such as maple-braised lambshanks with squash flan, eggplant parmesan, jambalaya, chicken braciole with house-made gnocchi, along with an extensive offering of seasonal tapas, salads, soups, and Marge’s dessert creations, plus fresh fish/seafood and ethnic specials collected during a lifetime of travel.” The couple spent a year in New Orleans and when they heard of the restaurant’s availability, welcomed the opportunity to return. We’re thrilled to have them back! The second annual Sangre de Cristo Craft Brewers Santa Fe Open Pro-Am competition is November 5- 8. Already recognized by many as the best-run and most dynamic beer, mead and cider competition in the state, the event draws judges from around the state and as far away as Hawaii. Pro-breweries and homebrewers will compete for awards in several categories. Public awards ceremonies will be hosted during the weekend at Cowgirl and Santa Fe Brewing Company. On Sunday, anyone can attend seminars about brewing beer, mead and cider. For complete details, visit santafeopen.org. Holiday Pie Mania returns for a fourth helping November 14, when local chefs demonstrate how to bake their signature holiday desserts as a benefit for The Food Depot. Why bake desserts for the holidays when you can leave it up to a professional chef—and help Northern New Mexico’s hungry at the same time? Builders Source Appliance Gallery, 1608 Pacheco Street, is where you can taste a variety of pies and other treats as you watch top Santa Fe chefs
our own Theater Grottesco, explore an artistic realm that blurs the boundaries between dancers, actors and musicians, birthing rigorous moments of presence and direct communication. Randee Paufve, John Flax and Kent Kirkpatrick (Theater Grottesco), and Eric Kupers (Bandelion), will co-direct the work, which will be collaboratively created and performed by nine Bandelion artists, three Theater Grottesco artists and Randee Paufve. More at theatergrottesco.org.
demonstrate how to make their signature holiday desserts, accompanied by ice cream and coffee. Bid on your favorites in a lively auction, and pick them up at the restaurant or bakery, freshly baked, in time for your | Go crazy! It’s Pie Mania! Thanksgiving and other holiday celebrations and gift giving. Best of all, you will be able to “share a piece of the pie” with those who need it most. Visit thefooddepot.org and holidaypiemania.com for more information and tickets.
Performance Santa Fe brings the exciting young players of Harlem String Quartet to town. Especially for children, the group will perform Rumpelstiltskin for string quartet and storyteller on November 15 at the Unitarian Universalist Church. November 16 at the St. Francis Auditorium at the New Mexico Museum of Art, they will be joined by the exhilarating jazz clarinetist Eddie Daniels, described by Leonard Bernstein as “a thoroughly well-bred demon,” for the world premiere of a piece by composer Charles Fox, who wrote the song “Killing me Softly.” The young quartet has performed for President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama, and with Chick Corea, Itzhak Perlman and Wynton Marsalis, in addition to participating heavily in community outreach. Tickets at PerformanceSantaFe.org.
Theater Grottesco, Bandelion Ensemble and Paufve|Dance present Blessed Unrest: A Showcase of Works-in-Progress November 7 for two shows at the New Mexico School for the Arts in the Large Rehearsal Hall, 275 E. Alameda. This ongoing collaboration of Dandelion Dancetheater’s Bandelion Ensemble and choreographer Randee Paufve of Paufve|Dance, both from Oakland, and
Photo: Amy Schroeder
If pie isn’t on the menu, why not find a holiday gift that’s green? The 17th Annual Recycle Santa Fe Art Festival takes place November 20-22 at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. This is the best place to buy green holiday gifts at the art market, enjoy the gallery-style exhibit at the juried art exhibit and don’t miss Santa Fe youth creations at the juried student art exhibit. The weekend kicks off with the famous Trash Fashion and Costume contest on Friday. More info at recyclesantafe.org.
Santa Fe Playhouse presents its annual
| Harlem String Quartet
Playwrights’ Workshop, Four Full Length Works directed by Barbara Hatch. From a pool of over a dozen submissions, three local theater professionals chose four unpublished and previously unproduced works, in a blind reading. On the bill are Buy One, Get Five Free by Amy Lanasa; Lucy Gardner Makes Hats by Dianna Lewis; Denial (is not a river in Egypt) by Deborah Magid and City Mice by Rosemary Zibart. What an astounding opportunity to see a work read and the dialogue come to life from the page, which is a vital step in the playwriting process. This program is dedicated to supporting local playwrights (and the actors who will be reading) and encouraging the creation of new works. The readings run November 5-15, with each play being read twice. Visit santafeplayhouse.org for a complete listing of dates and plays, tickets, etc. Local author and playwright Mark Dunn has a few things to celebrate in November. His play Belles: The Reunion saw its world premiere, and his new book We Five comes out this month. Celebrate with him on November 3 at Bookworks in Albuquerque at a dramatized reading and author signing. Actress Mary Ellen Holmen will be one of three performers that evening, as well as at an identical event on November 12 at Collected Works here in Santa Fe. And on Sunday, November 22, Belles: The Reunion gets a staged reading as a benefit for the Santa Fe Woman’s Club. All events are free, with donations accepted at the Santa Fe Woman’s Club. Visit bkwrks.com and cwbookstore.com for the author events, and call 505.983.9455 for details on the staged reading. Thanksgiving weekend has two fun familyfriendly activities on tap. First, November 27-29 is the return of Circus Luminous, one of Santa Fe’s favorite Thanksgiving Weekend traditions. Aerialists, acrobats and other performances will dazzle kids and adults alike at the Lensic. Tickets at lensic.org. And November 28-29 is Santa Fe Winter Indian Market at the Santa Fe
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
Community Convention Center. This is a more intimate version of the worldrenowned Summer Indian Market, where visitors can meet the artists and buy unique gifts that are handmade and of the highest quality. Items including jewelry, weaving, pottery, imaginative holiday decorations and more are available for purchase. Go to swaia. org for complete details. Local author Theresa DiGiorgio will present Haute Fiction, Three Chapters in Three Acts at El Museo Cultural on December 6. The show, sponsored by The Santa Fe Film Festival, kicks off the official launch of Haute Fiction as an e-book series offering interactive content in multi-column, full-color pictorial layout. Says DiGiorgio, “My goal in presenting Haute Fiction is to create a dimensional multi-genre experience that proves fashion is not frivolity, a magazine is not mere gloss and reading is not out of style.” More at hautefiction.com.
TAOS Artemisia ArtWear has a new owner. Actually, Yvonne Swartz took over the shop in April, and has spent the summer and early fall curating the hand-woven and other fiber-art goods she carries in the shop. Artemisia continues to focus on selecting the one-of-a-kind art wear and accessories that make the store a favorite destination for fiber-arts lovers from around the world and online. New Mexico weavers Nancy Paap, Barbara Ehrlich, and the Nilssen Weavers are represented, as are the alpaca fiber jackets of Albuquerque’s Whispirit, Zo Zo Artwear from Lois Weaver of Roswell, and Renata Z Extraordinary Knitwear by Renata Zimmermann. Stop in, welcome Yvonne and check out the amazing works of wearable art or visit artemisiataos.com.
NOVEMBER 2015
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the art BUZZ
ALBUQUERQUE
Sumner & Dene downtown welcomes Dee Sanchez with Painting the North: Taos & Beyond on November 6 during the citywide Artscrawl. Longtime Albuquerque landscape impressionist painter known for her rich, bright colors, Sanchez uses her palette knife to capture all of our favorite iconic Northern New Mexico locations: Taos Gorge, the Jemez, Algodones and Hondo Valleys, Santuario de Chimayo, Truchas and Taos hollyhocks. The reception includes music by Mezcla Latina. Visit sumnerdene.com for details.
On Saturday, November 21, join Palette Contemporary Art & Craft Gallery in admiring the works of French architect turned painter, Frederick Pichon in his newest show, Variété. Pichon’s work strives to bring fleeting moments into the foreground, allowing him to omit everyday details while maintaining remarkable compositions. Pichon creates powerful negative space resulting in unexpected juxtapositions, yet keeps his viewers in a realm of realism. His paintings reflect his interests in design, architecture, science and history. Palette’s shown Pichon in the past, but this show includes a variety of paintings and some new subject matter that have not been seen before. Check it out, palettecontemporary.com.
Europe, the United States, Canada, the Caribbean and several African countries. The native of France settled in Santa Fe in 2012 with his wife and business partner Cathy. After a successful show on Canyon Road in 2014, Cathy and Gérard decided to open their own art gallery in downtown Santa Fe. Vachez is the winner of a 1989 AGFA prize for creative photography. His work has been published and reviewed in prestigious French and American magazines. Early in his career, Vachez won a commission from the French government to organize the Bujumbura Cultural Center in Burundi, Central Africa. Burundi proved to be a powerful source of inspiration for the young artist’s first black-and-white photo exhibit, a show that later traveled to Rwanda and Zaire. Africa was the stepping stone to a successful artistic career in Burundi, Guadeloupe and the United States. Head to gerardvachez.com or call 505.577.8339.
The second new gallery is City of Mud, a collaborative art space at 1114 A Hickox that opened in October with Re+Invention, a show described as “an opening salvo for our general aesthetic, which is just a touch dark and decadent, and showcases abstraction in both two and three dimensions,” says Sasha Pyle, curator and artist. “The show is called Re+Invention because we reinvented the building, ourselves and how art can be displayed. Also, there’s a bit of a steampunk flavor with the industrial elements mixed in, and the word invention speaks to that art and science mix.” For art and design lovers, City of Sixty Six Contemporary Art Gallery presents Signs of the Mud promises a departure from the traditional Times, a light-hearted exhibition in November that takes its regional art model that has long dominated the direction from the signs of our times—from road signs, to the local gallery world. Contemporary sculpture and commercial, the vernacular and more. This exhibition asks us painting, vintage objects ranging from mysterious to consider the imperatives of the signs we encounter on a daily basis that nevertheless do not register on a conscious level. Placed industrial items to useful tableware, and modern out of their context, do these signs merit their own consideration ceramics and glass, are curated together with home décor in an unexpected mix that puts the as works of art? Decide for yourself in this wonderfully emphasis on juxtaposition. Pyle’s partners are whimsical group show of artistic signs and related artworks. well-known local painter and illustrator Jamie Head to gallery-sixty-six.myshopify.com. Chase, a veteran of many one-man and group shows at dozens of galleries nationally, who serves Santa Fe welcomes two new galleries as the contemporary arts coordinator; and Nancy to town! Gérard Vachez Gallery opened October 30 with a Nichols, director, whose background includes reception to honor Gérard Vachez, the co-owner and fine artist who works in photography, drawing, painting and digital art. At textile design, fashion, high-end retail and 418 Montezuma Avenue in the Jean Cocteau Building, Gérard product design. The three are longtime friends Vachez Gallery features his works, which have been exhibited in and associates whose vision for the new art space
SANTA FE
includes events like book signings/readings, live art demonstrations, musical performances, and four curated art exhibitions annually. Check cityofmud.com or call 505.954.1705. Featuring the work of Ugandan artist, Davis Muwamba, Nyumbani AfroArt at Jambo Imports includes realistic and semi-abstract paintings capturing African wildlife and cultural life. Learn more about NyumbaniAfroArt at NyumbaniAfroArt.com, and remember, 5 percent of every purchase made at Jambo Imports directly supports the Jambo Kids Clinic in Lamu, Kenya.
| Davis Muwamba, Nyumbani AfroArt at Jambo Imports The historic La Fonda On The Plaza hotel showcases its diverse collection of art and the history behind some of its most celebrated features in a new docent-led tour. Tour participants spend an hour being guided through the hotel, where they learn about some of its most notable artists, including Gerald Cassidy, Tony Abeyta, Paul Lantz, Sheldon Harvey and others representing the many artistic styles that give La Fonda its eclectic feel. In addition, guests discover the iconic hotel’s 400-yearold beginnings and how elements from its past have been intricately woven into its modern-day look. This blended style can be seen in all La Fonda guest rooms, some of which feature original headboards from the era of architect John Gaw Meem and Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, the architects/designers who remodeled the hotel in the late 1920s. The walking tours run three times a week, are customizable for groups and are conducted on a rotating basis by more than 30 specially trained docents, who put their own unique stamp on each tour. No tour is the same, but each features a plethora of interesting facts and anecdotes, rare photographs from the hotel’s early days and an unforgettable collection of artwork that will inform and fascinate at every turn. The free tours limited to 10 people, begin in the hotel lobby, and must be reserved ahead. | Four Corners by Gerald Cassidy Call 505.982.5511, and visit Lafondasantafe.com for more.
TAOS
The Taos Arts Council and the Creation/Migration group of artists co-present Under a Common Sky, an exhibition at the Taos Town Hall November 13 through February 5, Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m., with free public parking. This broad-ranging exhibition explores the concept of sky from many different vantage points and artistic disciplines. The exhibition artists include Nick Beason, Esteban Bojorquez, Trish Booth, Donna Caulton, Mary Cost, Jim Forcier-Call, Lorrie Garcia, Ralph Greene, Theodore Greer, Betsie Miller-Kusz, Michael Miro, Jean Nichols, Kimberly Pollis, Lise Poulsen and Harriette Tsosie. With this exhibition, the Town of Taos concludes a remembrance for the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists. A special preview “vernissage” poetry event on November 7 at the historic County Courthouse kicks off the event with ten poets responding to specific art pieces in the exhibition with their own poetry. Visit the Taos Arts Council website at taosartscouncil.org for more.
34th Annual
PLACITAS HOLIDAY Fine Arts & Crafts Sale November 21 & 22 Sat 10–5 pm & Sun 10–4:30 pm
Benise: Strings of Passion SUN | NOV 8 | 3PM
The National Dance Company of Siberia FRI | NOV 13 | 8PM
80 Artists Anasazi Fields Winery at 3 Sites The Big Tent (east of Presbyterian Church) Placitas Elementary School
2015 featured artist Dorothy Bunny Bowen
Refreshments at each location • Art Raffle display at the School
NOV 19-22 • 6 Performances
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Meow Wolf
story by GAIL SNYDER photos by LINDSEY KENNEDY and BRANDON SODER
Vince and his band of merry pranksters.... They’re all individual artists in their own right, but in their chosen other guise—kitten ears and a wolf tail—they are a feverishly passionate, wild bunch of art fanatics working playfully to create another world within this one, full of sorcery, miracles and mysterious elements of surprise.
I
magine an audacious Daredevil figure slack-lining full-tilt across a deep, broad, breathtakingly beautiful canyon, and halfway across, with flash of a trickster grin—oops!—it’s flailing, windmilling its arms, teetering before righting itself, just to hear the onlookers gasp. Cackling, it gracefully moonwalks the rest of the line to the other side, triumphantly turning to take a bow. Not for fame and glory, not for the big bucks, but purely for the fun, the risk, the exhilarating range of sensations. That’s at least a stab at a description of Santa Fe’s artists’ collective known as Meow Wolf. They’re all individual artists in their own right, but in their chosen other guise—kitten ears and a wolf tail—they are a feverishly passionate, wild bunch of art fanatics working playfully to create another world within this one, full of sorcery, miracles and mysterious elements of surprise. When you first walk into one of this art-production company’s paradigm-busting installations—they’re especially partial to interactive projects you don’t observe from a distance but encounter full-on—you could think you’ve stumbled into some kind of playground of the gods. You have. Yet most of the Meow Wolf artists grew up right here among us. Many even knew each other as far back as elementary school, so they had each other as mad inventor peers in those unselfconscious playground days. And maybe the genesis for today’s collective was seeded in those early years. “I was born and raised here, right over in the Bellamah neighborhood,” says Vince Kadlubek, one of Meow Wolf ’s founders. “I went to Chaparrael Elementary School and Santa Fe High.” Vince and lots of his friends knew they wanted to pursue art when they grew up, but not the kind you find walking on Santa Fe’s un-wild side. As young adults in their hometown, they felt marginalized, with jobs in scarce supply and the cost of living prohibitively high. Vince and a few others watched as many of the artists of their generation—high school 14
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graduates at the turn of the millennium—left for more 20-something-friendly places. Vince left, too, albeit briefly; Portland, that young artists’ mecca, drew him. He admired what he saw, he says. “But there was nothing more to do there. It was already done.” So, still seeking a band of merry pranksters to create ingenious art spectacles with, Vince returned to Santa Fe, and in 2008, he and a core group of artist friends co-founded Meow Wolf. The first and foremost requirement was that they create collaboratively, fostering a sense of belonging. They would start each new project by brainstorming for ideas the world had never before witnessed: fun, intensely creative and also meaningful immersive environments, larger and larger scale, completely hands-on, do-disturb. At the beginning, they planned and executed underground events requiring no permits. Over time, Vince says, “The projects we’ve created together have become increasingly complex.” When in 2011, the Center for Contemporary Arts invited them to build and install a 70-foot-long interactive ship, Meow Wolf outdid everyone’s expectations. Some compared The Due Return to a movie set, but it went beyond that, including elaborate, minute details that a theater viewer would never see. All the collective’s works have had to be torn down once their temporary permits expired. But fired up with momentum from The Due Return’s reception, the collective has spent the past few years building the foundation for an even more “wildly maximal artwork,” slated to open in early 2016. By now, the details of how the various seemingly impossible elements all came together for the creation of Meow Wolf ’s The House of Eternal Return, its first permanent project, are the stuff of local legend—from their applying for and winning the city grant allowing them to quit their day jobs to create “a combination jungle gym, haunted house, children’s museum and immersive art exhibit” to mounting a satisfyingly successful Kickstarter campaign; and the pinnacle piece: Santa Fe philanthropist George RR Martin, acclaimed author of the Game of Thrones series, generously agreeing to Vince’s request that he buy the building they had earmarked and lease it to them. Formerly the old Silva Lanes Bowling Alley on Rufina Circle, this 35,000-square-foot behemoth (with its outsized bowling pin rising high above the parking lot) is being renovated to include artists’ studios, a gift shop, gallery and, most spectacularly, a life-size Victorian house which greets you as you walk in. Unlike with a real-life stranger’s house, here they want you to go in and snoop around. Photos of the house’s family are displayed; their jackets, their magazines, reading glasses and coffee cups are all just where they left them. Go ahead, pull books off shelves, riffle through the mail, open closets and bedroom doors. Shopping lists and clippings are taped to the refrigerator door. You’ll discover that, instead of containing food, this refrigerator is a secret doorway. Now it ceases feeling so much like getting carte blanche to rummage around at your neighbors’, and—thrillingly!—more like stepping into a house from a science fiction novel—one by Ray Bradbury, say, where God only knows what real landscapes the wallpaper will suddenly melt into. Possibilities for multiple realities awaiting you in The House of Eternal Return are infinite; you’ll have to see for yourself. Till then, know that the normal-seeming family in the photos isn’t what it seems. Expect evidence of nature, time and space dissolving before
S a n t a F e f i n d s h e r s e l f c u r r e n t l y a t a c r o s s r o a d s . F o r e o n s , s h e’s b e e n c e l e b r a t e d a s a mecca of cutting-edge arts and culture. But as the focus of art has narrowed, do we continue to hold it to a traditional path, which can be closed to new ideas and often exclusive? Or do we dare to expand creativity in all its multiple permutations, pushing it beyond the outer limits to become a living, breathing life force, accessible to all.... A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Meow Wolf your eyes, additional destinations continuously unfolding and each family member exhibiting “unexpected” powers and abilities. But! As phenomenally outrageous as all that sounds, the effects of Meow Wolf ’s biggest and most ambitiously radical project to date ripple out far beyond the vicinity of the old bowling alley. Santa Fe finds herself currently at a crossroads. For eons, she’s been celebrated as a mecca of cutting-edge arts and culture. But as the focus of art has narrowed, do we continue to hold it to a traditional path, which can be closed to new ideas and often exclusive? Or do we dare to expand creativity in all its multiple permutations, pushing it beyond the outer limits to become a living, breathing life force, accessible to all, especially those feeling estranged, closed out? To the Meow Wolf artists, these aren’t academic questions; they’re part of the collective’s larger vision for its hometown. “Santa Fe needs to generate more revenue,” Vince says. “We need to expand our identity. We need better services and an equal playing field across the board.” What if we became a destination city for a more vital, more inclusive kind of creativity? “Art is a break from the norm,” Vince explains. “And, in the way Meow Wolf does it, it’s a borderline psychedelic experience. It breaks people out of what they think is possible, and opens their eyes to other alternatives.” Imagine a Santa Fe that’s more attractive to businesses, one that fosters entrepreneurship and is alluring to young parents who value the merits of raising kids here. “There’s so much to Santa Fe! We have proximity to incredible nature! It all circles back to the word ‘create.’ Once you tap into your creator self, you make better decisions in your life. No one,” Vince adds, “wants to negatively affect the world.” They just need exposure to the alternatives. “When people are programmed to follow someone else’s rules to get the money, it all becomes a power game. It’s an exhausting, fruitless cycle. We want to open ourselves up to a larger swath of the population,” he continues. “Play is part of that response. You come into our installations and play. You get to touch, make musical tones,” be fully in your body through your senses. “I don’t know where kids get to explore anymore. They’re all in a box, literally and figuratively,” Vince says. “We want to supply their
environment with opportunities and nooks for exploration. So many of the paths available to them now are repetitive. When all they get to do is go to big box stores, they just say, ‘Another Target, just like the last one.’ Nothing is fun or interesting. You know, people complain that all kids do anymore is stare at a screen, but if the outside world was more interesting, they wouldn’t do that.” Now more than ever, our kids are crying out for more contact with the weird, the strange, the unexpected. But Vince says it’s not just kids. “When a 60-year-old rich Eastsider can come into our installation and collide with a bunch of younger artists and 14-year-old kids, he’ll say, ‘Holy crap, this is awesome!’” And that’s exactly what the Meow Wolf artists intend. “Especially for kids, their lives can be changed by just these kinds of encounters,” Vince concludes. “You never know what seeds are planted in kids’ heads by just one visit.” Our future artists are the children endlessly exploring The House of Eternal Return. In the Santa Fe that Meow Wolf hopes to help foster, all of us will begin to meet and enjoy our creator selves who crave to come out and introduce us to the elusive world that’s in this one. You can follow the exciting journey of Meow Wolf on Facebook or go to their website meowwolf.com.
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OurOurValley, Story s t o r y b y S T A N L E Y C R AW F O R D
The Rio Grande at Embudo Station
photos by BETH GUGGENHEIM
Photo: Sheena Camron
M
ajor works of public art are few and far between in the villages of Northern New Mexico, a situation that may have begun to change, at least in Dixon, with the installation of a 40-foot-long ceramic mural of the Embudo Valley. It is the My wife RoseMary and creation of nationally I arrived in the area in recognized ceramicist 1969, at a time when Shel Neymark working with four local teenagers, local residents born before statehood were who participated in the research, design, firing still alive, and when a and mounting of the number of elders spoke stoneware panels on the little or no English. That east-facing exterior wall generation is now gone, of the Embudo Valley and the numbers of those Coop of Dixon. It was born in the ’20s and ’30s completed in midAugust. are thinning—and with The yearlong project was funded by five foundations that recognized the importance of involving the youth in documenting and celebrating historic sites, prominent structures, and the geology and ecology of a rich and culturally diverse area of Northern New Mexico. The outlines of the 40-foot map were based on a blow-up of topo maps provided by Peter Arnold of Woodbury University’s Arid Lands Institute, which sponsors annual student
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them will also slip away living memories of the traditional old ways, and the place names associated with old customs and events, much of which the mural fixes in durable ceramic, to serve well into the future as a detailed guide to the Embudo Valley.
Mark Gonzales, Shel Neymark, Daija Fernandez, Brooklyn Sullivan-Seebeck, and John Salazar (not pictured) workshops in the Embudo Valley to study water use and patterns of erosion. As a result, placement of roads, lanes, acequias, arroyos, hilltops and other geographical features are accurate. Topology however, in terms of elevation, is approximate. The map covers the Embudo Valley and the Embudo and Rinconada stretches of the Rio Grande. To research the area, Shel guided the teens on visits to historic buildings and sites and prominent natural features, where they made sketches and took photos from which to base the small ceramic versions they modeled for the map. These include an encampment site of the 1680 Pueblo Revolt and the descansos that mark the site of a battle during the Mexican-American War. For numbers and names, they carved stamps. Shel and his four protégés all worked on the carving and glazing of the panels two days a week after school and Saturdays, then four days a week during the summer, for which the teens were paid an hourly wage from the foundation grants. A few others became so interested that they volunteered to help. Not surprisingly, all were really pleased at the completion of the complex project, and they took pride in their involvement—the enthusiasm radiated out into the community of their peers. Shel’s assistants were Brooklyn Sullivan-Seebeck, Daija Fernandez, Mark Gonzales and John Salazar. The project was funded by the Sheila Fortune Fund, the McCune Foundation, Our Future Fund of the Santa Fe Community Foundation, the Northern New Mexico Rio Grande Heritage Foundation, and Partners for Fish and Wildlife. Much of the historical information regarding ancient Native American sites is relatively recent. For several years, Columbia University archeology
professor Severin Fowles has been studying the area, assisted by his grad students, and they have documented a number of encampment sites, the site of a major pueblo (c. 1300 AD) on a ridge above the Embudo Valley, dancing circles, sacred stones and petroglyphs. Originally searching for the septic tank of his summer home, Severin and his students also excavated various areas in the old plaza area of central Dixon, uncovering strata of debris from the current era down through colonial times to pre-colonial eras. (They also found the septic tank.) These newly documented features have added a significant dimension to the mural. Old-timer residents of the area were particularly helpful in positioning the sites of long-gone moradas, for example, and remembering the old names of geological features and now unused buildings, among them the late writer and photographer and scholar of the area, Juan Estevan Arellano, to whom the mural is dedicated, and poet Levi Romero. The creation of the mural comes at an important time in the Embudo Valley. My wife RoseMary and I arrived in the area in 1969, at a time when local residents born before statehood were still alive, and
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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when a number of elders spoke little or no English. That generation is now gone, and the numbers of those born in the ’20s and ’30s are thinning—and with them will also slip away living memories of the traditional old ways, and the place names associated with old customs and events, much of which the mural fixes in durable ceramic, to serve well into the future as a detailed guide to the Embudo Valley. Shel Neymark himself is chair of the board of the Embudo Valley Library, recently the recipient of the highest national-award a library can get. He and Felicity Fonseca, who works for the library, and Joseph Estrada, 16, a star library volunteer, were flown to Washington DC to receive the award from Michelle Obama at the White House. Only five libraries and five museums are awarded annually. And not content with just the mural, Shel and the library board are seeking funding for a large mural inside the library, “Seasons of the Acequia,” to be created by well-known painter Jim Vogel. This would be the next step in increasing the presence of public art in Dixon, projects which could well serve as a model for other small communities wishing to document and celebrate their historical and cultural uniqueness.
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The 34th Annual Dixon Studio Tour will be an excellent opportunity for out-of-towners to view the mural, which is on the east exterior wall of the Embudo Valley Coop in the center of Dixon. The Tour is held from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. on Saturday November 7th and Sunday the 8th. A group show featuring the work of most of the 32 participating artists will be held in the Community Center on Friday, 5:30-7:30 p.m., the evening before the start of the Tour. The Community Center is immediately opposite the mural. For information and photos and to download maps of the Dixon Studio Tour, go to dixonarts.org.
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EL MESÓN “We open up the floor and people come to dance. The place has marcha! This is a word in Spain for the movement of the night, you know, the vibrancy of the night life. So the place has marcha means it’s moving. If it doesn’t? Eh, boy.” You can take the man out of España, but you can’t take España out of the man.
Following the cultural traditions of his home country, El Mesón chef and owner, native Spaniard David Huertas, has kept alive a connection to something greater than himself—than all of us, for that matter— and at the same time, he gives us the best of traditional Spanish food and music. Talking with David, it’s clear he gives from his heart. We meet before hours at the Tapas Bar. Staff is busy getting ready for the evening ahead. David makes espressos for us, and we sit down. The space is reminiscent of a Spanish casa’s central courtyard, complete with surrounding portico topped with terra cotta roof tiles. An intriguing collection of antique kitchen utensils decorates the walls under the eaves. Doors in one corner lead to the bodega. David was born in Madrid. “My family’s from southern Spain; I was raised there,” he says. “I also lived in South America, in Peru, Chile, Venezuela—it’s complicated.” Chef & Owner David Huertas Laughing, he continues, “We also spent some time in Belgium. I blame that for my love of French fries.” David’s summers however, were spent in Spain with his family. “When you move around as a young person, having an anchor point is critical,” he says. A touch wistful, David tells me about those summers. “It was a different world. The town had one car—it was the taxi. You didn’t need to worry about anything; everybody looked out for everybody’s kids. It was really simple. My abuela would send me down to the bakery to get bread, fresh milk, fresh eggs every morning. I was the first one up and out the door.” David points to two small galvanized jugs hanging on the wall. “Those are the milk jugs I used to bring the milk back,” he says. “In fact, a lot of this stuff is from my grandmother’s house.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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EL MESÓN
Savor the night...
When David was 16, he moved to the United States and has been here ever since. I ask if there is anything, specifically, he misses about Spain. From his pause, I suspect there is much he misses, but he answers, “The quality of the food.” After another pause, he says, “Here in the states, food is a commodity. Not that it’s not in Spain, there’s that side of it, too, but food in Spain is something that’s revered. It’s appreciated. It is something that is entrusted to you to make. You have these little produce stores that have been owned by the same family for however many generations. It’s a different culture, and the freshness of everything, using stuff when it’s fresh. It just tastes better… always does.” We get to talking about a few of David’s favorite dishes. Gambas al ajillo, a Basque classic, is top on his list. Fresh shrimp, olive oil, garlic, pequin chile flakes, sea salt, a little bit of parsley, and lemon to squeeze after it’s cooked. With obvious passion, David describes how it’s prepared and my mouth starts to water. “Baked in a cazuela, they kind of poach, if you will, in their own juices. It forms this cool little emulsion and the juice from the shrimp… all the flavor’s in there, and you dip your bread after you’ve eaten the shrimp, and it’s just marvelous. It’s perfection!” David sips his espresso. “The classic is the simplest, and it always comes back to that. I take that very seriously.” Being a fan of history, the very simple pairings of ingredients in traditional recipes intrigue David. “When done right—” he says emphatically, “when prepared the right way, with the ingredients at that right peak-ness, it’s just boom, it’s there. You can’t argue with that, and you can’t improve on it.” He’s not especially into fancy plating. He says, “It comes to the sensory explosion in your mouth, of what it does to your head, the flavors and how you feel. That’s what’s important to me.” David’s approach to cooking “adheres to that base knowledge that’s been handed down hundreds, thousands of years.” We also talk about paella and gazpacho. David enjoys giving me the full story, from their modest beginnings in early Roman and Arabian culture to the importance of balancing ingredients to serving details. (To get the real deal, paella must be brought to the table in the pan, and that pan better show some time on the stovetop.)
Paella A La Valenciana: Chorizo Sausage, Chicken Breast, Pork Tenderloin, Mussels, Clams, Shrimp, and Scallops, Saffron Sofrito, and Bomba Rice simmered in a house-made Roast Chicken Broth 26
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David opened El Mesón in the summer of 1997. “From the beginning, I liked to have guitarists come by,” he says, “because in Spain the dining scene is lively. Especially in the evening.” The big meal is midday, followed by a siesta and then back to work. “After work,” says David, “you go out for copas and tapas. It’s a lively social thing—a lot of people watching, a lot of engagement, and very relaxing. The best I can do is something similar under one roof, hence having entertainment and having more of a night-life scene.” The bar has some combination of music and dancing every night. Tuesday nights, El Mesón has a very popular tango night. “It’s a milonga, an Argentine word for tango party or invitation,” David says. “And so it’s not like a formal event.” Shahin Medghalchi of El Latido del Tango in Santa Fe hosts the evening and has been instrumental in the success of the event. David continues, “We open up the floor and people come to dance. The place has marcha! This is a word in Spain for the movement of the night, you know, the vibrancy of the night-life. So the place has marcha means it’s moving. If it doesn’t? Eh, boy.” From his expression, I gather a place without marcha is, in a word, hopeless. Being the confirmed wallflower I am (and thank goodness my sweetheart Karen is a blossom of the same petal), I make a reservation for an evening when the food and music take priority over dancing. We arrive in time to get settled, while Edda Glass and Max Hatt of the bossa nova jazz duet Rio set up. While Karen enjoys a 2012 Kaiken Malbec, I relish a dry 2011 Launa Rioja (90% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo). Within a half hour, the music has started and it’s a full house. We’re going to share tapas and peruse and discuss the menu. Of course, I have the gambas in mind. Edda sings the airy whisper of a Brazilian lover to Max’s rhythmic accompaniment on guitar. The ambiance is a mellow balance of music and conversation. No one is shouting to be heard over the other. We start with gazpacho, a light tomato puree with a touch of acidity, served with small sides of minced cucumber, peppers, onion and crispy croutons. We go for the gusto and add them all. Our taste buds thus stirred, we order the alcachofas rellenas, three artichoke hearts filled with goat cheese are flash-fried and served piping hot atop a romesco sauce with piquant caper berries. I consider having seconds. But the gambas al ajillo calls to me. Karen is a fan of oysters, and orders the ostras fritas. When these dishes arrive, we are swept into our respective delights. The shrimp is nutty and sweet, a hint of the sea. David wasn’t boasting. They are perfection. The oysters, well, yes, as smiling Karen says, “You can taste the ocean.” I eat one, I nibble another. Oysters, alas, are a taste I have yet to acquire. Since sneaking a preview of the menu online, I’ve been lusting for the grilled lamb chops. We order them. Two sizzling medium-rare chops arrive with a dab of chimichurri sauce. Oh, they are tender and good. And the sauce. Minced parsley with a sweet-and-sour thing going on and a dash of heat is an intense awakening of flavors and a perfect complement to the earthiness of the lamb. Definitely not the jiggly mint jelly my abuela served. About halfway through, Karen suggests I finish her chop. I look at her wondering if something is wrong. She grins and tells me, “I’m saving room for dessert!” To cut right to the chase, I want to know (David’s wife) Pastry Chef Kelly Huertas’ recipe for flan de naranja. Flan with a trace of orange— how something can be so perfectly rich and light at the same time, is beyond me. We left not a smidgen on the plate. David takes a quick break from the kitchen to check on us. He wants to know if everything was to our liking. Definitely, yes. Happy and infused with the flavors of Spain, it’s time to head for home. We step out onto the street; the weather is changing. Upper branches of towering cottonwoods along South Federal Place wildly toss in gusts of wind. We hold hands and briskly walk to the car. What a wonderful night. El Mesón is located at 213 Washington Avenue in Santa Fe. 505.983.6756 (reservations recommended), elmeson-santafe.com.
Flamenco Guitarist Jose Valle “Chuscales”
Edda Glass & Max Hatt of Rio A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
NOVEMBER 2015
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HABITAT:
stor y by EMILY BEENEN
Exploring Climate Change Through the Arts 2.
“When it comes to the care of our ‘common home,’ we are living at a critical moment of history.” Pope Francis 1.
3.
4.
5.
1. Scott Greene, La Bajada Bluff, 2013, oil on canvas 30 x 50 inches, Courtesy of Catherine Clarke Gallery. 2. Cedra Wood, Lemmings, 2014, graphite on paper, 17 x 13 inches. 3. Beau Carey, Aquife, 2015, Oil onCanvas, 44x52. 4. Beau Carey, Breach, 2013, oil on canvas, 48x60. 5. Beau Carey, Regolith, 2015, oil on canvas, 46x54. 30
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equal measures of determination and timeliness, HABITAT leaves no educational or artistic stone unturned, inspiring dialogue and questions such as “How are we interpreting what we witness as the climate and our environment shift?” And perhaps more importantly, as these shifts occur, “What are the creative adaptations necessary to re-establish our place, our habitat, on this Earth?” Visual arts dominate the second half of the project; 516 Arts will feature the concurrent solo exhibitions of Albuquerque artists Scott Greene in Bewilderness and Beau Carey in Rise. Tricklock Theatre hosts Climate Change Theatre Action, a collection of one to five minute plays, poems and songs by 50 writers from all six livable continents, and the Guild Cinema presents No Impact Man, which details one family’s attempt to live “eco-effectively.” However, if you favor listening to looking, attend Ruben Arvizu’s talk on “Cultural Perspectives in the Global Quest for Water.” Or if you prefer to experience than heed, sign up for kid-friendly, hands-on workshops to learn about bioluminescence, create an erosion sculpture, or discover how an excursion into the Ojito Wilderness influences the artistic process. And for those who desire a gustatory education, the ideal consciousness raising experience is Chef James Campbell Caruso’s pop-up dinner in the 516 gallery, featuring dishes and ingredients that relate to climate change.
Despite the prevalence of fomenting conversation about climate change, Suzanne Sbarge notes that when she initially talked about the HABITAT project, much of the response was, “Well, that sounds depressing.” But it was a topic very much on her mind, and she could see climate change becoming more important and relevant. Thus began the collaboration with Nancy Zastudil, and this synergy propelled them to a place where, “Suddenly,” Suzanne says, “I began to see opportunities everywhere to raise awareness with this issue in the arts and create more and more programming.” By the time the show opened on August 29th, the topic of climate change had blown up in the mainstream media. Details of President Obama’s recently released Climate Action Plan opened with the line, “It is clear that no challenge poses a greater threat to future generations than climate change.” And Pope Francis hadn’t been in the United States for more than several hours before imparting these words at the White House Welcoming Ceremony in September: “Mr. President, I find it encouraging that you are proposing an initiative for reducing air pollution. Accepting the urgency, it seems clear to me also that climate change is a problem which can no longer be left to a future generation. When it comes to the care of our ‘common home,’ we are living at a critical moment of history.” And then there’s the upcoming 21st session of the Conference of the Parties, or COP 21: the United Nations Climate Change Conference, where the governments of more than 190 nations will gather in Paris to discuss a possible new global agreement on climate change. One of Suzanne’s goals for HABITAT is to help connect Albuquerque and New Mexico to the rest of the world; to showcase local in the context of a larger world. “Despite media’s attempt at times to focus only on the local angle, we are not insular,” Suzanne says. She wants to get the dialogue going and make Albuquerque feel more connected to what’s going on around the world. “The timing [of HABITAT],” she ascertains, “came together really beautifully and it’s been great to feel like what we’re doing here is really part of an international moment that is gaining momentum.” So not only is Paris connected to Albuquerque, but Albuquerque will soon make its mark on Paris. Suzanne recently learned that the HABITAT project has been accepted as part of an enormous global arts exploration and celebration
“The timing of HABITAT came together really beautifully and it’s been great to feel like what we’re doing here is really part of an international moment that is gaining momentum.” Suzanne Sbarge
Photo: Kyle Zimmerman
In November, Executive Director Suzanne Sbarge of 516 Arts unveils the second half of the collaborative season of public programming for the city-wide project titled HABITAT: Exploring Climate Change Through the Arts. The project, at least a year in the making, was launched in late August with the dual exhibitions Off the Charts and Knew Normal, the latter curated by co-collaborator Nancy Zastudil, owner of Central Features, a gallery just around the corner from 516 that hosted an additional satellite exhibition as part of the initial opening. With
| Suzanne Sbarge
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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HABITAT:
6.
6. Scott Greene, Bear Market, 2015, oil on canvas on panel, 30x40, courtesy of Catherine Clark Gallery. 7. STEMarts Lab@ThePASEO workshop 2014, Projecting Particles Instructors: Marcus Dorninger & Agnes Chavez. This image references “Projecting Climate Change”, a youth workshop presented by 516 ARTS and Explora on December 9, 2015, 4-8pm at Explora.
7.
For the full schedule of HABITAT events and further details, visit 516arts.org.
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called ArtCOP21 (artcop21.com), which seeks to remind the citizens of the world that climate change issues cannot solely be resolved behind the often closed doors of science and policymaking. Much of the HABITAT project contends with the initial reactions many people have to the subject of climate change—feelings of apathy, fear of the unknown, or immobilization in the face of such an enormous challenge. What can I possibly do to make a positive impact in this catastrophic situation? This is where the message of Mel Chin—featured artist, climate change activist and keynote speaker for the HABITAT project—steps in to inspire our best selves and, as Nancy Zastudil puts it, “do what the arts and humanities have always done, which is highlight our sense of humor, sensitivity, grieving, romance—all of these very human qualities that will help us adapt and help us survive.” Nancy also notes that the voice of London-born author Zadie Smith is inherently present, though not directly included, in the project. Smith contends in her essay, “Elegy for a Country’s Seasons,” that there is all of this scientific and ideological language for what is happening to the weather, but hardly any intimate words, despite all the ways in which climate change affects us on an intimate level. The go-to euphemism to describe all that happens to us is to say, “This is the new normal,” however, Smith encourages us to appeal to the sense of intimacy in order to “create the necessary traction in our minds…to turn from the elegiac what have we done to the practical what can we do?” What we can do, according to Mel Chin, is “expose people to something awesome…the role of the artist is to expose people to something awesome and ultimately convert their consciousness.” Suzanne describes the “bombastic” project Mel is working on for Paris, where he’s bringing an Inuit sled driver to the French capital to tell people, “The Arctic is here, the Arctic is in Paris and the melt is already affecting you. Everything you know about where you live will be different now, the Arctic is no more.” But the sled driver will be driving a sled led by standard poodles trained to run through the streets of Paris. It’s a very dire message, but it’s done in a very funny, theatrical way, like he’s creating a public service announcement. Mel, Suzanne says, doesn’t believe we can’t stop climate change, but we have to look at connection and adaptation, or we won’t make it. So, his ultimate message is, “Let’s get busy, people!” It’s a really positive call to action. Suzanne notes Chin also reinforces Martin Luther King, Jr.’s message about creating change: “From time immemorial we have been taught to value self-preservation first. It’s false. The rule of life is the preservation of the other. You can apply it to anything we’re doing, including art and climate change. How do you preserve the life and mindset of someone else? It’s a powerful lesson in how to be human.” Since the HABITAT project began, Nancy explains, the language around climate change has started to shift from, “This will happen in the future,” to, “This is happening right now.” And it’s these subtle changes that can really get people to feel that urgency. At times both Suzanne and Nancy feel stuck, wondering about the relevance of the HABITAT project, asking, “Are we just raising awareness or are we trying to change policy?” But that type of binary thinking can be limiting, and where the arts are most successful, they decide, is somewhere in between.
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Backstreet Bistro
Stor y and photos by MELYSSA HOLIK
“You gotta ansa tha phone!” Backstreet Bistro owner David Jacoby’s Brooklyn accent—undiminished even after decades in Santa Fe—rises over the clamor of soup bowls and clang of metal ladles during the lunchtime rush. His tone is more insistent than angry, and by the second ring, he’s around the counter and on the phone, jotting down a to-go order. That “do whatever it takes” attitude is part of what makes Backstreet Bistro so successful. It’s not just David’s accent that endures: from the NY Mets cap on top of his head to the well-worn work boots on his feet, David epitomizes “old-school” Brooklyn style and values—hard work, honesty and humor. David doesn’t mince words, nor does he waste them. He gets right to the point, and fast. When he reveals his motives for opening Backstreet Bistro (originally named Baca Street Bistro) in 1994, he’s characteristically frank and succinct: “I got fed up with working for other people, so I did it.” When prodded, he elaborates, “I was born into this business. My grandparents owned a bar/restaurant, my mother cooked, my grandmother cooked. My father was a restaurant supplier. I started going out with my father at age five, doing deliveries, giving out apples with menus attached. My father started teaching me how to cook when I was a kid. We’d grill steaks on the Hibachi on the front porch; I was making grilled cheese, or making coffee for my mother in the morning.” He summarizes, “I loved to cook, and I knew one day, I’d open up a restaurant.” It’s pretty clear he’s doing what he loves. Even as folks line up six deep to get a bowl of Hungarian Mushroom, a cup of Platinum Roasted Potato or a Corned Beef Rueben, David remains busy but unruffled, waving at small children, talking sports with his regulars, and singing along to “A New York State of Mind,” all while effortlessly multitasking the register, the phones, packaging orders and managing his staff. He may own the place, but he’s not above getting in the trenches and doing anything that’s required. I ask him how many hours a week he works, and it’s apparent that he doesn’t keep track. He simply replies, “Sixty, 65? I work as many as I need to, no matter what it is.” “You have to be very disciplined to be able to do this,” he emphasizes. “I work hard, and my crew works hard every day, no matter what it takes. If you don’t want to work hard, you’re never gonna make it in this business.” His dedication sets the tone for the entire staff. The servers reflect David’s work ethic and grace under pressure. They somehow achieve an unhurried efficiency, stopping to smile and chat with customers, yet speedily getting orders out. It’s a difficult
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Backstreet Bistro 36
| Chef David Jacoby balancing act, and patrons take notice. “The wait staff is always hustling, and always busy, but they always get your order right,” Backstreet Bistro regular, Haskell Sheinberg, observes. David does seem to have a knack for retaining quality workers. He talks about the challenge of finding good employees, saying modestly, “They come, they go; I can’t make them stay.” “The smart ones stay!” server Kat Roberts interjects with a grin. “He’s the best boss ever. I tell people this all the time—I’ve been waiting tables since I was 16, and David is the only person I’ve ever worked for who works harder than me. He’s here all the time; he works really hard. So I do everything I can to make him happy and make his business work.” It would seem the smart ones really do stay—one of David’s cooks, Flavio Ventura, has been at the restaurant for 18 years. Another, Cesar Velasquez, has worked at Backstreet for nine years. “Our boss is cool,” Flavio says. “The way he treats people, it’s fun to work with him.” One server, Moises Cerda, has worked at Backstreet for 10 years. Kat has been there for just over three years herself, and as she puts it, “I will be with David until he tells me to go away. The bistro is amazing and I love working here, and I’ll work for David as long as he’ll let me. Anyone out in the world will tell you the best part about the bistro is David. He knows everyone in town.” As I watch David greet customers, he does appear to know everyone by name. He jokes with them and asks about their families. There’s an uncontrived sense of community and familiarity. The atmosphere is casual and friendly, and as result, Backstreet Bistro inspires intense loyalty from Santa Fe locals. Many people come multiple times per week. Local CPA Jon Jecker, for example, comes in an average of three days a week. He says, “The food is great, it’s really consistent, but it’s more about the ambiance. I’ve operated restaurants and worked in restaurants, so there’s something very familiar about this place.” Jon adds, “If you come as often I do or as long as I do, it’s like you’re part of the staff.” Another regular, Patrick Casey, has been coming two or three times a week since the bistro opened. “I’ve been coming as long as I can remember,” he says, and jokes, “I like it because he hardly ever has armadillo on the menu! No, no, I like it for the consistency, the prices are totally reasonable, there’s plenty of parking available. There’s a friendly
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atmosphere, and you see a lot of local people.” Across the table, fellow diner John Bishop concurs, saying, “Everyone here is a local. The only time he gets tourists is when they Google ‘Soup in Santa Fe.’ So you see a lot of people you know here.” Jeff Taylor and his wife Mary lived in Santa Fe for months before their first visit to Backstreet Bistro. “We saw it on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and we saw he had won the Souper Bowl, but we just couldn’t find it!” Jeff laughs, “Then one day we were banking nearby and we finally saw it. It was like a great discovery!” Ever since that visit, they’ve been hooked. “He does a great corned-beef Rueben, the soups are awesome, and the pies are good, too!” Jeff raves. “Also, it’s fast, and the people who work here are super nice. You can tell that David Jacoby treats his people well.” One of the most compelling things about Backstreet is how David’s New York style blends pleasantly with Santa Fe’s laid-back cordiality. David chose to open his restaurant in Santa Fe because he enjoys what he calls, “The live-and-let-live attitude. I just fell in love with this town, and it hasn’t stopped, things have gone really well for me here.” Patrick Casey sums up the New York/New Mexico synthesis perfectly with an anecdote about the bistro’s community table. “Once I was sitting here and the guy next to me asks, ‘Are you having a New York lunch or a Santa Fe lunch?’ For a moment, I wondered, ‘Wait, I’m not at a New York deli.’ Then the guy explained: At a New York lunch, you sit next to each other but no one talks. At a Santa Fe lunch, you sit next to each other and everyone talks and gets in each other’s business. And it’s true!” The community table also allows people to get a seat quickly, which matches well with David’s intention when he opened the business. “It’s good food at good prices, served quickly,” he explains. “This is a very busy business area, and most of my clientele are business people, about three quarters of them are eating lunch on their lunch break.” David says his customers are often “average working people who are eating lunch on the run and need something nutritious, filling and reasonably priced.” And, oh, the food they’re eating. In addition to the standard menu of sandwiches and salads, there’s a rotating menu of soups that changes daily. “We decide what to make every day based on what’s available, what’s fresh and good, what people are asking for, what the weather is,” David says. There’s a hint of nostalgia to the menu choices, too: Every Friday, they serve Matzo Soup, their most labor-intensive recipe. The tradition harkens back to David’s childhood memories in Sheepshead Bay. “Every Friday when I delivered newspapers in Brooklyn,” he recalls, “every apartment smelled like chicken soup. Every Friday.” They make the Matzo Soup traditionally, simmering the bone broth overnight and making the matzo balls from scratch. And while David maintains a sense of tradition, he’s not afraid to branch out either. The menu frequently includes new soups like Jamaican-style Vegetable, or the recently added Thai Chicken Noodle. “We just started it this summer,” David says. “Everyone loves that one.” There’s more than enough love to go around at Backstreet Bistro. Customers love the food. They love the owner. The staff loves each other. They love their boss. They love the customers. “I love the people who come in, we have a ton of really awesome regulars,” Kat says with complete sincerity. “We all know each other, it’s like a family.” After spending a few days with the folks at Backstreet Bistro, I’d have to agree. The food and the people at this little lunch spot are everything a family should be: casual, comfortable, and most of all, comforting. If you’re not yet acquainted with Backstreet Bistro, you definitely should be. Head on over and join the family. Backstreet Bistro is located at 513 Camino de Los Marquez in Santa Fe. 505.982.3500, backstreetbistrodailysoup.blogspot.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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IT’S ALL ABOUT
THE KIDS
stor y by STEPHANIE HAINSFURTHER photos by LIZ LOPEZ
| Marie Yniquez and Karla Arvizu of Bocadillos New Mexico Slow Roasted Sandwich Shop | Chef Chris Jaramillo makes a 505-Philly sandwich during the lunch rush
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T
here’s a line out the door during any given lunchtime at Bocadillos New Mexico Slow Roasted Sandwich Shop in Albuquerque, although they encourage you to call in your order. The friendly atmosphere, fresh ingredients and neighborhood vibe are irresistible to the regulars who come for breakfast and lunch. Sandwiched (sorry) between a Blake’s Lotaburger and an Allsup’s on Indian School Road right around the corner from the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Bocadillos is a hidden gem in the North Valley for people in the know. And people in the know don’t park at Blake’s. They’ll tow you. When the small parking lot at Bocadillos is full, people in the know park on 17TH Street.
Bocadillos fans also wrote in to “Triple D” (Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives”) to let host Guy Fieri know he should stop by and try their homemade recipes. That show was taped just three weeks after the sandwich shop opened. You can watch the video on YouTube or at BocadillosNM.com. But something even more special is going on behind the thriving eat-in, take-out business and its appetizing aromas. Bocadillos does fresh food for children as an alternative to the warmed-up breakfasts and lunches they are given in school. Owners Marie Yniguez and Karla Arvizu are a married couple whose mom-and-mom shop started its community catering branch after Marie’s ninth-grade daughter came home from school and said, “Mom, the food was just awful. And it was cold!” The partners went out and looked at what the school kids were eating. “For breakfast, they gave the kids chocolate-chocolate-chip muffins and chocolate milk,” she says, horrified. “And a whole apple, not even cut up, for little kids who didn’t even have all their teeth yet.” Karla and Marie decided to step up the nutritional value of student meals and snagged three contracts from Albuquerque Public Schools to feed three charter schools. “We started with 50 kids in 2012,” Marie says. “Within four months, we were feeding 500.” Marie is delighted by the reactions of kids and parents to Bocadillos locally sourced, made-from-scratch breakfasts and lunches. Comments like “This is real food! You guys are cooking!” and, “Can I have some seconds, Ma’am?” offset the initial reluctance of children to try something new (“What’s that green thing?”). And parents who recognize Marie and Karla at the supermarket or school functions say things like, “My kid says your food is better than what we make at home!” Marie says, “It’s such an awesome, gratifying feeling. The parents are so happy.” Dealing with the bureaucracy of the federal and state government has, however, been a huge obstacle. In addition to a great deal of red tape and delay, the USDA, whose guidelines are followed by Albuquerque Public Schools, does not have guidelines for fresh food, only packaged foods. The need for child-nutrition labels obliges Marie to break down all of her recipes and make her own labels so that the food can be served with the USDA stamp, another costly side-effect of doing business with the education sector. Without loans or credit cards (a conscious business decision), and just nine employees, Bocadillos struggled; Marie says, “We don’t make money off the schools.” That stark fact has not deterred these energetic women; in fact, it’s made them even more determined to change the status quo. Right now, their school contract is with the Native American Community Academy, a public charter school for middle- and highschool students. Karla and Marie are proud of the “brain food” they serve up to students to keep them alert and active throughout the school day. They cater to 200 students at breakfast, and 300 at lunch. Even that amazing outreach is not enough for Karla and Marie. “We want to create a model for other catering companies to follow, so school children can eat better,” Karla says. “So we will apply for nonprofit status for that part of the business.” The educational component to that nonprofit will help local kids learn about nutrition and growing their own food. They are also planning to offer three-year, paid internships for school kids to learn how to cook.
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IT’S ALL ABOUT
THE KIDS And the big plans keep on coming. Bocadillos just moved into the Green Jeans Farmery complex at 3600 Cutler Avenue NE, a new infill project using repurposed shipping containers as building modules. Joined by Santa Fe Brewing Company and other foodie delights, Bocadillos introduces its delicious, melt-inyour-mouth wares to a new neighborhood. At just 320 squarefeet, the new location is take-out only, but “there are plenty of really beautiful spaces to sit and eat, including a courtyard,” Karla says. The move will increase their staff from nine to 15. Most of the original nine have been with the company for five of their six years in business. “Chris Jaramillo is our chef,” says Marie. “We work closely; we’re kind of like one mind. We have prep cooks and line cooks. But everybody here is trained to do everything, so anyone can step in to do what needs to be done.” At the original location, dinner will be served up as soon as the beer-and-wine license arrives—locally crafted beers and wine only, of course, for that’s the meat of their business model: Bocadillos serves the community. In addition to their school-meal program, Bocadillos enters the Roadrunner Food Bank Souper Bowl each January. They also contribute to events for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, Stone Soup and the Gutierrez-Hubbell House Local Food Festival. Marie and Karla, who will soon become grandmothers themselves, credit Marie’s strong family ties and traditions with her drive to cook for and give to the community. Her grandmother visited Bocadillos for the first time just a few weeks ago. “For her to tell me my red chile is as good as hers…wow.” “I’ve worked for mom-and-pop places my whole life,” says Marie, whose mini-stroke a few years back helped her decide to stop working for other restaurants. “We’re friends and family here. My staff has been amazing. If we can cook for kids—a lot of them don’t eat all day, a lot of them are homeless—and we’re creating jobs. That makes me happy. It’s all about that smile on a little kid’s face.” Bocadillos New Mexico Slow Roasted Sandwich Shop is located at 1609 Indian School Road, NW, in Albuquerque, 505.200.0053, bocadillosnm.com. Bocadillos (take-out only) is located at 3600 Cutler Avenue, NE. Check their website for hours.
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The merchants of Flying Star Plaza invite you to our annual
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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In the Kitchen story by MIA ROSE PORIS
FAVO N OV
RITE
EMBE
R
with kids
Cooking With Kids has grown up—the beloved program, which was among the first of its kind across the nation, is in fact, not even a teenager anymore. On November 12, CWK holds a special 20th anniversary dinner for adults, featuring delectable wines, world-class cuisine and Santa Fe’s favorite “Super Chefs,” all benefiting cooking classes in local schools. This month, Local Flavor chats with CWK’s Anna Farrier about why Cooking With Kids is such a wonderful, groundbreaking program, and why you shouldn’t miss its first wine- and chef-inspired dinner.
Could you give a brief description of CWK and its role in Santa Fe Public Schools? Cooking With Kids is a nonprofit here in Santa Fe, founded 20 years ago. We work in partner with Santa Fe Public Schools, and we provide all of the funding, raise the money, get the grants, donations and bring the programing to the schools. The idea behind Cooking With Kids is to give kids a fun, positive experience with healthy food, with the goal of changing eating behaviors. It’s a really wonderful way to impact kids while they’re having fun. We’re in 14 schools this year, with 5,000 kids each year. And it’s really wonderful, the number of family members who volunteered in classes last year—over 1,400. Food brings people together. Chefs come and volunteer, farmers come, and government officials. It’s wonderful community-building. And of course, everyone wants to be in the kitchen. It changes the culture of the school when there’s that embedded within it. When you walk in and you can smell the fresh tortillas cooking, and the parents are coming and helping—moms and dads and grandmas and grandpas and older brothers and aunties—it’s really special. We’re connecting kids to where food comes from and what real food is.
Why is it so important to have kids in the kitchen?
“In someone’s house, everyone ends up in the kitchen, and the same thing happens in schools.” Anna Farrier
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The list is long. Our mission is to get kids empowered and educated about healthy foods, to make changes about eating habits and get children involved in the preparation. The skills they learn are skills they’ll have for a lifetime. One of the most important things kids can do to ensure long-term health is to learn to cook for themselves. And it’s fun! Families have fun cooking together. We hear stories of kids who change a family’s food culture. We hear from parents that kids come home and say, “We made minestrone! Can we go buy veggies?” Or we’ll run into kids in grocery stores searching for kale with their parents. Kids can drive the car when it comes to what’s happening in the kitchen. And there are also all of the other neat things you can tie it into. Kids all around the city are cooking tostadas from scratch right now. They learn about where corn comes from, beans, legumes. There’s the science side, cultural awareness, social studies, geography. Kids learn what a fraction is by cutting dough into fourths. Math is important in the kitchen, and so are things like literacy and reading.
Have there been any major highlights over the past 20 years? Twenty years ago, hands-on nutritional education wasn’t really on people’s radar. I think it’s safe to say, this was the first of its kind, at this scale, across the nation. The biggest highlight is the growth of the program—how many children we’ve been able to reach. The total number of kids who’ve participated, over many many years of their individual educations, is over 17,000. We’ve taught over 30,000 classes. That’s really neat, and a huge milestone. Another highlight is the support of the community—people, organizations, schools—they’ve all been so supportive. They understand the importance of educating kids about real food, where it comes from, how to cook, taste, eat, and the local food system.
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Super Chefs is such a wonderful title; it makes me think of “super hero” or even of “super foods”— where did it come from? Who are these Super Chefs? In coming up with a name for the chefs who volunteer, Super Chefs sounded fun. And the chefs loved it. They are super heroes when they come into the classroom, and wonderful role models. When a chef comes in––in his garb––it’s a big deal! They have celebrity status in the community, and they talk to the students about the importance of cooking for yourself, of eating healthy food, that it’s important to stay in school. The chefs are so diverse—men, women, folks born in the US and from all over. Martín Rios is an immigrant. Juan Bochenski is from Argentina and Fernando Olea is from Mexico. Christian from Osteria is Italian. It’s such a cool, diverse group of people, and they can really inspire kids, and that’s the whole reason behind bringing chefs into the classroom.
Is this CWK’s first dinner of its kind or have you had more like it in the past? This is first dinner of its kind. We’ve never done anything that included wine!
| Drawing by Kendra
What does the evening look like? What can we look forward to in particular?
Photo: Joy Godfrey
Photo: Gabriella Marks
who’s cooking?
| Joseph Wrede
Photo: Gabriella Marks
Photo: Douglas Merriam
| Andrew Cooper
| Martín Rios
| Sancho Soeiro
Is there a particular aspect of the evening where the child’s perspective or the kid component really shines? Ultimately, we want everything we do to come back to kids. Every dollar we raise supports cooking classes in schools, and the 20th anniversary is a wonderful opportunity to raise money for the program. A group of 5th graders in Sweeney Elementary made super-hero chefs—that’s the drawing on the invitation. So, kids will be at the event in spirit. Their art will be all over the place; they’re making centerpieces for us, there will be videos. Some folks from the Santa Fe Public Schools will be there. And of course, the chefs are there as well, having fun in support of this organization that they all really care about. All (who are on the list on the invitation) will be there. There’s not time for all of them to do demos, but they’ll all be there to chat and all that.
What would you say to someone who’s hesitant about spending $175 for the evening? Why is this such a special, not-to-be-missed feast?
Photo: Steven Lang
| Juan Bochenski
It’s not a gala, just something community-minded and supportive—a wonderful, fun, celebratory evening. One thing we just found out that’s happening is a silent auction that’s mainly wine-based. And one of our longtime board members, Cheryl Alters Jamison, is donating a dinner for eight at her house with Mayor Gonzales, and Martín Rios will do the desserts. The event comes from the chefs, but also from one particular incredibly generous donor—Brad and Belinda Karp—donating all of the wines for the event. The Santa Fe School of Cooking is doing so much, donating their space. We wanted to do something a little different for 20 years—to get more people, to let a different sort of folks learn about Cooking With Kids, to let the chefs shine.
| Rene Fox
The chefs are all incredible, and we’ll have them all together! The wines are extraordinary. It costs $120 to do a whole year of Cooking With Kids. That’s for just one kid. We know this is going to be a huge success; everything raised goes back to the programming, and all of the chefs are so wonderful. Santa Fe is such an incredible community, and the 20th anniversary is something that all of Santa Fe can be proud of. For more information about Cooking With Kids, its supporters, the Super Chef volunteers, the lineup participating in the 20th anniversary dinner and more, visit cookingwithkids.org. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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STILL HUNGRY?
story by CAITLIN RICHARDS
T
he holiday season, of course, is centered largely around food. November through January often mean full bellies and lots of travel, and that heaping combination often means hotels, hot meals and hospitality. For this month of gratitude and lots of food, Still Hungry? talks with the local chefs who work in some of Santa Fe’s best hotel restaurants and dedicate themselves year-round to feeding people who are away from home—and locals, too! Whether you’re on the road for business, vacationing for the holidays, or you live in Santa Fe and don’t feel up to cooking, these chefs are there to feed and nurture you with a meal that tastes of his own traditions. And whether you’re staying in the hotel, or you’re just out for a local bite, you won’t even have to do the dishes.
Butternut Squash Bisque
Photo: Gabriella Marks
C HEF A NT HO NY SMIT H, T HE O LD HO USE AT T HE E L DOR ADO HOT E L
| Chef Tony Smith
“I live about 5,000 miles away from home (London), so I understand what it’s like to be away from home,” Chef Anthony says. One thing he loves to do for people travelling with children is to bring the kids to the kitchen and show them around. One thing he loves about cooking at the Old House is that he gets to be a part of people’s lives for a couple of days. “You see the same families at breakfast and dinner. It’s like they are guests in your
own home,” the chef explains. Anthony likes to “engage people, find out where they’ve been, where they’re coming from.” His butternut squash bisque will be on the Thanksgiving menu at the Old House—it’s one of his traditional recipes. Chef says he uses as many local ingredients as possible; the squash, for instance, comes from Green Tractor Farm, and he sources as many other vegetables as he can locally. What’s most important to Chef Anthony? “To use as much local ingredients as possible, use regional products, keep the money local. We have a responsibility to the community,” he says. But more importantly is to “cook from the heart, put love into the food.” That’s the main ingredient. The Old House at Eldorado Hotel, 505.995.4530, eldoradohotel.com/ dining-nightlife/old-house.
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VEGGIE ST O CK 8 Servings 2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 3 ribs celery, chopped 3/4 cup dry white wine 3 cups water Pinch saffron threads To make veggie stock: Heat olive oil in a saucepan over high heat. Sauté onion and celery, deglaze with wine. Add the water, saffron, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock into another saucepan.
SQ UA SH BISQ UE 2 cups butternut squash puree 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon Cayenne pepper 1 Tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt to taste Ground pepper to taste Sherry to taste 2 teaspoons fresh sage, finely chopped To make soup: Add the squash puree, cream, and cayenne into the veggie stock. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add lemon juice, taste, and season with salt and black pepper. Finish with sherry to enrich taste and adjust seasoning as needed. When ready to serve, add the sage. Place soup in warm soup bowls and enjoy.
Buche de Noel
Photo: Vladimir Chaloupka
C H EF TOD D HA LL, JULIA AT LA PO SA DA
| Chef Todd Hall
Chef Todd didn’t have to think at all about what recipe to share when I asked him for a favorite holiday dish. “I started making the Buche de Noel early in my career, and now it’s a holiday staple,” he says. After school, Todd worked at Le Parisien in Salt Lake City, where he learned to make a classic buche. March 2016 marks 40 years of professional cooking for Chef Todd, who says he’s seen “a lot of food trends come and go. But Christmas and Thanksgiving are all about traditional fare. People expect the regulars they’ve had their whole lives.” For his Buche de Noel, Todd teaches a few apprentices each year how to cook and assemble the perfect yule log, so he can “pass down the skill to carry on the tradition.” Julia – a Spirited Restaurant & Bar, La Posada de Santa Fe, 505.986.0000, laposadadesantafe.com/dining
Photo courtesy of Hilton Santa Fe BuffaloThunder
Corn Chowder C H EF ED G AR MO RA LES, R ED S AG E AT HILT O N SA NTA FE B U F FALO TH U NDER
When I walk into Red Sage to talk with Chef Edgar, I’m immediately surrounded by the most wonderful aroma. “What is that?” I ask. “It smells delicious.” “I just turned on the ovens,” the chef replies. It may have been a while since I last turned on my oven, but I’m pretty sure it didn’t smell like that. “Wood| Chef Edgar Morales fired ovens,” he adds. Aah. The word that keeps coming up as Chef Edgar speaks is “passion.” The passion he has C ORN C H OWD ER for cooking; the passion the guests have while 14 ounces of corn kernels eating; and how the chef can help younger 6 ounces diced pasilla chile cooks and servers find their passion in creating 6 ounces diced onion and serving his dishes. Edgar is a fairly recent 6 ounces diced leeks addition to the Santa Fe restaurant scene, Pinch each salt and pepper having moved here only four months ago from 1 gallon vegetable stock Las Vegas, NV. It’s a big change, but one that 2 pounds diced, peeled potatoes he’s embracing. Edgar’s general rule of thumb 1 quart heavy cream is the same wherever he cooks: “I come to Sauté corn, pasilla, onions and leeks with work and think, ‘What do I need to do today olive oil and salt and pepper. Add vegetable to make it better?’” stock and potatoes. Bring to a boil, then Born in Mexico, Chef Edgar moved to reduce heat and simmer for about five the US when he was about three. Foodminutes. Add heavy cream, cook about 20 centered family gatherings were a tradition in minutes, until potatoes are tender. Blend his family. Now, when cooking at Red Sage, together. he “gets the warm feeling of seeing families coming and eating together, especially when I am not with my family.” His corn chowder is a fall favorite on the Red Sage menu. It’s a dish Edgar brought with him but has adjusted for the local seasonings and flavors of New Mexico. “I love sharing my recipes,” he says. “People can add their own touch, make it theirs.” Just as long as they do it with passion.
FRENCH B UT T E R CR E AM Yields about 10 cups of buttercream. Enough to frost about three Buche de Noels. 20 egg yolks 1 cup Grand Mariner Pinch of salt 2 cups granulated sugar 3 pounds tempered unsalted butter 2 vanilla beans Place egg yolks and Grand Mariner in a stainless steel mixing bowl over low heat and whip vigorously until it forms a ribbon and has become a sabayon. Place sugar in a saucepan over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Place sabayon in mixer at high speed. When syrup has reached 238 degrees, incorporate it into the sabayon in degrees. When the paté au bombe is cool enough, add tempered butter a quarter pound at a time, allowing it to mix well while periodically scraping the bowl. Once all the butter has been added, add vanilla and mix to incorporate. Use immediately. To use buttercream that has been refrigerated, allow to come to room temperature (this takes about 3 hours in a warm kitchen). Then mix through until it’s spreadable again. Serve at room temperature. If you’ve assembled your Buche de Noel, allow it to come to room temperature before serving (about 3 hours in a warm kitchen).
CLA SSIC GE N OI S E 8 large eggs 3 large egg yolks 1 cup granulated sugar 2 1/2 tablespoons honey 2 cups unbleached, unbromated pastry flour, sifted Dark rum 3 Tablespoons instant decaf coffee 1 cup melted chocolate Place the whole eggs, egg yolks, sugar and honey in the mixing bowl and make an egg foam by whisking the mixture to 113 degrees above medium heat, about 7 to 10 minutes. When it forms a ribbon it will be tripled in volume, and light in color. Remove the mixing bowl from the heat and incorporate flour—whip the batter in a mixer on medium-high speed until it cools, increases in volume, stiffens slightly and becomes pale yellow, about 7 to 10 minutes. Carefully fold the mixture, making sure to fold to the bottom of the bowl. Fill buttered and parchment paper-lined sheet trays 3/4 full with batter. Dot the batter with tempered butter. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven until well-risen and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool and drizzle with dark rum and spread with mocha butter cream. To make the chocolate and mocha butter creams, separate the French butter cream in half—mix one half with 3 Tablespoons coffee, and the other with the melted chocolate. Roll genoise lengthwise until it forms a log. Spread the exterior with chocolate butter cream. Garnish with meringue mushrooms, confectioners’ sugar and fresh holly.
Red Sage, Hilton Santa Fe Buffalo Thunder, 505.819.2056, redsage-sf.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Enkuan Bedehna Metachew
Authentic Flavors of Ethiopia in Santa Fe, NM
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Being happy deserves more than an hour!
Join us for Red Sage Happy Hour Daily Food & Drink Specials from 2pm-6pm for more info visit redsage-sf.com
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For reservations, please Celebrate Thanksgiving with a call 505-986-0000 bountiful buffet featuring Roast Turkey, Roast Leg of Lamb and all your traditional favorites including stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, salads, vegetables, desserts and much more.
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photo: Kitty Leaken
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