SEPTEMBER 2014
S A NTA F E | A L BU Q U E R QUE | TAOS
A TAST E OF LIF E I N N EW M EXI CO
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your home
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your s ty le
© David Marlow with Parasol Productions for The Essential Guide
your life
Space Planning • Material Specifications Home Furnishings & Fabrics • Custom Furniture Design Lisa Samuel ASID, IIDA, NMLID #313 428 Sandoval Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 samueldesigngroup.com • 505.820.0239
mention Local Flavor for 30% off one new fall item senseclothing.com 505.988.5534 851 w san mateo #5 made in the usa for 10 years
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ANNIVERSARY 124 -1/2 GALISTEO ST :: 866-982-1737 :: SANTAFEWEAVINGGALLERY.COM
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at four seasons resort rancho encantado
TASTE… Experience a twist on contemporary American cuisine inspired by northern New Mexico and infused with locally-sourced organic ingredients. Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort.
4 Seasons
TREAT YOURSELF at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado
For reservations or information, please call (505) 946-5700 or visit fourseasons.com/santafe
at four seasons resort rancho encantado
UNWIND… Escape to the Spa at Rancho Encantado where an innovative selection of spa and wellness services honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions awaits.
Inside:
Competitive Prices S t o pLargest I n Selections & Stock Up Friendly Staff for all of your celebrations Something for every Taste
ON OUR COVER: Chefs of the 24th Annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta
Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Wine Manager on Duty
The Buzz … and the Art Buzz
We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer
Presently Stocking:
Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm
Over 3500 WinesWhat’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not ……. that’s the buzz!
by Kelly Koepke 12
800 Beer ChoicesThe Big Buzz by Chef Johnny Vee 16 It’s one of Local Flavor’s most popular columns—the annual restaurant 105 Single Malt Scotches round-up, featuring a full year of comings and goings in Santa Fe.
220 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas
Great Expectations
by James Selby 24
Wine and Chile Fiesta sure builds up plenty of excitement—but does it deliver?
136 Types of Rum
FINE WINE & LIQUOR
Master Sommelier
by Erin Brooks 28
A rare interview with Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser on his work in submodalities and how it influences his wine tasting skills.
Est. 1981
Established 1981
505.455.2219 Competitive Prices
GruetTaosby Erin Brooks
Española
32
The venerable Gruet family celebrates 25 years of winemaking in New Pojoaque Mexico. N
kokoman@cybermesa.com Largest Selection Hwy 84/285 • Pojoaque Friendly 12 miles North Staff of Santa Fe
Exit #502
At the Shoot
Over 20 varieties of keg beer
Photos by Gabriella Marks 35
Who’s Who
Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm
by Lily Carbone 40
Who do you know? Who do you love? A handy breakdown of all the chefs on the cover.
¡Globalquerque! Our September Fave
Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar
by Gordon Bunder 44
Leave it to the Que to pull off this world-class music event. Globalquerque—there’s nothing like it!
Something for every taste...
A New Class of Chefs
by Gordon Bunker 48
A warm congratulations to the Santa Fe Culinary Academy and the graduates of its first class of professional culinarians. Presently Stocking Over 3,500 Wines • 1,000 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches • 390 Types of Vodka 220 Tequilas • 157 Types of Rum Conveniently located 12 easy miles north of Santa Fe and on the way to all your favorite destinations in Northern New Mexico...
In Chile We Trust
by Caitlin Richards 52
You’re not a true local until you crave a little chile for breakfast.
Still Hungry?
by Lily Carbone 55
Miller, Rios, Wrede and Dale. That’s our all-star lineup for Wine and Chile!
SEPTEMBER
2014 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant: Mia Rose Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Joy Godfrey Prepress: Scott C. Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Kate Collins 505.470.1612. Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130. Amber Gillreath
505.235.9216.
505-455-2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road • Hwy 84/285 Pojoaque 87506 2
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223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above
address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
it’s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.
OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com
HISTORIC NOB HILL
ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS
505.254.ZINC(9462)
505.294.WINE(9463)
www.zincabq.com
www.savoyabq.com
Thunderhead Farms in Bosque Farms, NM.
ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com
. .truly local.
10% of pink gem stone sale proceeds in September will be donated to Breast Cancer Research!
A restorative healing collection of botanical blends for hair and skin to enhance healthy, graceful aging.
modern alchemy Holistic Skin & Hair Care
Pink Sapphire and Diamond Earrings
De Bella Collectibles For more information contact Joe De Bella, Graduate Gemologist at 505.231.5357 or joseph.debella505@gmail.com
Available at Anita Louise Salon at 128 N. Guadalupe St. Santa Fe 505 988-8907 and at www.LRModernAlchemy.com
Continually Buying, Selling, and Representing Estates
We support fair trade sustainable farming
pairings Justin Winery & Vineyard Dinner: Thursday, September 25 Silver Oak & Twomey Cellars Dinner: Friday, September 26 Celebrate the 2014 Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta! #loveluminaria | 505.984.7915 | luminariarestaurant.com
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24th AnnuAl
Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta september 24—28, 2014
Live AUCTiON LUNC HeON THURSDAY SePTeMBeR 25TH
iNAUgURAL gRAN FONDO SUNDAY SePTeMBeR 28TH
When These Three Old Pals GeT TOGeTher (Caymus, sFW&C FiesTa & GrueT) FOr One GreaT lunCheOn, iT's sO BiG... iT requires 5 WOrld FamOus CheFs TO PrePare iT!
FOur hisTOriC nOrThern neW mexiCO VillaGes (45-mile Or 75-mile lOOP) neW mexiCO's Premier Culinary Bike ride FOur GuesT CheF FOOd sTOPs hOsTed By
James Campbell Caruso, la Boca, santa Fe (James Beard Semifinalist Best Chef Southwest)
Matthew Accarrino, SPQR, San Francisco (Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Chef 2014)
Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe, St. Louis (James Beard Semifinalist Best Chef Midwest)
Michelle Bernstein, Michy’s, Miami (James Beard Best Chef of the South)
martin rios, restaurant martin, santa Fe (James Beard Semifinalist Best Chef Southwest)
Chris DiMinno, Executive Chef, Portland (Chris King Precision Components)
Tony Smith, Eldorado Hotel, Santa Fe
Mark Kiffin, The Compound Restaurant, Santa Fe (James Beard Best Chef of the Southwest)
Laura Werlin, First Lady of Fromage, San Francisco (James Beard Award Winning Author) Seating is limited for this event, so order your tickets now. Check our web site for listings of the Auction Lots! This is one event that you don't want to miss! eldOradO hOTel - 11:30 am $150 Per PersOn / $1,500 FOr a TaBle OF 10!
Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe, St. Louis (James Beard Semifinalist Best Chef Midwest ) FOur seasOns ranChO enCanTadO - 7:00 am sTarT TO namBe, CundiyO, TruChas & ChimayO - $75 ChamPaGne ruinarT reCePTiOn aT The Finish!
Grand Tasting 75 Fabulous Santa Fe Restaurants & 100 World-Class Wineries Saturday September 27th Tickets www.sant af ewineandc hile.or g 505-438-8060
Letter
O
Photo: Joy Godfrey Photo: Joy Godfrey
Photo: Joy Godfrey
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
ne way to spot a big happy family is to go to one of their family gatherings. Look for the smiles. Look for kidding around and happy-go-lucky greetings and familiar slaps on the back. Look for people just hanging around—not rushing around. They should remind you of little kids when they huddle together to share a joke or a secret. This is family. And this is what the family of chefs look like each year at the All-Chef ’s photo shoot. One big crazy family of kids who share a love of playing with fire and knives and are more at home in the kitchen than anywhere else. Viva Fiesta! And thank you to my family at Local Flavor.
Wine Dinner with Frank Family Vineyards Friday, September 26 • Reserve your spot today!
Lunch & Dinner Every Day! For reservations, info & ‘instant’ gift certificates: santacafe.com 231 Washington Ave Santa Fe • 505-984-1788 • santacafe.com •
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TESUQUE
FLEA MARKET THE ORIGINAL FOR OVER 25 YEARS.
NOT YOUR TYPICAL
FLEA MARKET
DISCOVER GREAT GIFTS, EAT EXCELLENT FOOD & MEET PEOPLE FROM AROUND THE WORLD!
Interesting Jewelry, Rugs, Pottery, Clothing, Crafts, Imports, Art, Food & More...
TESUQUE
OPEN 9AM- 4PM | FRI, SAT & SUN
FLEA MARKET 15 Flea Market Rd | 505.670.2599 www.tesuquefleamarket.com
This Wine & Chile Fiesta, experience The Historic Bishop’s Lodge and Fine Wine — The Perfect Pairing. With two wine-country inspired dinners created by our nationally-acclaimed NEW Executive Chef, Tom Kerpon and his culinary team.
Celebrating J. Lohr’s 40th Anniversary! Join Brenda Boychuck of J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines for a five-course, winemaker gourmet dinner.
Join us as we host Schug Winery for a four-course, winemaker gourmet dinner featuring wines from Sonoma California.
Thursday September 25, 2014
Friday September 26, 2014
$95* per person
$95* per person
Reception at 6:15 pm Dinner at 7 pm
Reception at 6:15 pm Dinner at 7 pm
Reservations Required. 505.819.4035 *Plus tax & gratuity.
View both Winemaker Dinner Menus at bishopslodge.com
1297 Bishop’s Lodge Rd. Santa Fe, NM
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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You’re Invited to the Lavender Tea House: serving a light breakfast & lunch • Tues-Sat • 10am - 2:30pm Paninis • Salad • Soup • Scones Lavender Tea • Daily Specials
Located in Abiquiu – look for the purple flags between mile marker 210 and 211 on Hwy 84 505-685-0082 • www.purpleadobelavenderfarm.com
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ITALIAN • RESTAURANT BAR • FINE DINING • TAKE OUT
Join us during Santa Fe’s Wine & Chile Fiesta! Each of five courses prepared by our world class Executive Chef, Cristian Pontiggia, is paired with wines from all across Italy, including Ciro Rosso Classico and Ceretto Barolo. Make your reservations now for Thursday Sept 25 or Friday Sept 26 at 7pm. $115 per person plus tax and gratuity. Visit our website for a full menu with pairings.
505-986-5858 58 S. Federal Place Santa Fe, NM osteriadassisi.com
natural gail
1000 x whistle
100x Pure Beaver Natural Color with Custom Beadwork by Gail Green
Beaver/Mink with Large Scale Tabaja Navajo Storyteller Band in Sterling Silver
wide brim reno 100% Pure Beaver Chamois Color shown with Kim Rojo One-of-a-Kind Hatband
Montecristi Custom Hatworks 322 McKenzie Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505.983.9598 • montecristihats.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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The Buzz
Nob Hill dwellers now have the opportunity to hang with a steaming cup of coffee or tea, courtesy of Michael Thomas Coffee. The Fringecrest-y coffee house has opened a second location at Bryn Mawr and Silver Avenue, just south of Central. Owner Michael Sweeney expanded the space, which was a tea shop, and has partnered with East Downtown’s Hartford Square restaurant to offer food with Michael Thomas’s in-house roasted coffee and other drinks. Can’t wait to try the patio and watch the beautiful people walk, bike and saunter by. In other Nob Hill news, O’Niell’s is expanding next door with a sports bar called Gioco. The menu will offer artisan pizzas and flatbreads as well as the usual bar food. Of course, TVs are mandatory for a sports bar and co-owner Rob Munro promises a high-end audio-visual experience. Everyone’s estimating a September opening, just in time for football and baseball playoffs. Gioco, BTW, is Italian for “game.” Visit giocopizza.com or call 505.977.1836 to verify the opening and hours. Another entry into Albuquerque’s booming brew pub scene, the Draft Station opened its new Albuquerque location in August. They are proudly pouring some of the best craft beer in New Mexico: Blue Corn Brewery, Chama River Brewery, Marble, La Cumbre, and others. Open seven days a week at noon, the Draft Station is located at 1720 Central Avenue SW, between Downtown and Old Town.
Photo: Kate Russell
Downtown’s got more to look forward to as well. A new restaurant, taproom and urban grocery, Pony Jo Urban Market at Anthea, has broken ground. The brainchild of Matt DiGregory, founder of Standard Diner and Range Cafe, and Eric F. Garcia, owner of EFG Creative, Pony Jo will offer coffee, beer, wine, food, pastries and grocery store items. Rising at 4th and Granite NW, the market will be part of a three-story, 33,000-square-foot housing development called Anthea @ The Granite. Yeah for Downtown’s future!
| Matt DiGregory
| Cherie Austin
Every fall, the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust celebrates its work keeping farms and ranches in production with an annual Harvest Dinner. This farm-to-fork event, held this year at Farm & Table in Albuquerque’s North Valley, brings together some of Albuquerque’s finest chefs and farmers in a beautiful evening dining under the stars. Join the Land Trust and Farm & Table’s owner Cherie Austin on September 14 for an evening not to be missed, featuring five courses of exclusively local cuisine. Call 505.884.6557 for details and reservations.
The 3rd annual Albuquerque Mini Maker Faire, September 13 and 14 at the Albuquerque Balloon Museum, is a two-day, family-friendly adventure in creativity, invention and resourcefulness, and a celebration of the maker movement. With hands-on experiences for all ages, it’s part science fair, part county fair and part something entirely new. It’s a place where people show what they are making and share what they are learning. Makers range from tech enthusiasts to crafters, educators, tinkerers, hobbyists, engineers, artists, science clubs, poets, students, authors and commercial exhibitors. They are people who embrace the do-it-yourself spirit and are of all ages and backgrounds. Makers create, build, invent, re-purpose, hack, alter or otherwise change and improve the world around them through thinking and creativity, using circuit boards, wood, clay, fabric, LEDs, metal, plastic, robotics, yarn, sewing machines, computers, hot glue guns, paint, batteries, fire, electricity and recyclables—just about anything you can imagine. The aim of the Maker Faire is to entertain, inform, connect and grow this community. Visit makerfaireabq.com for a list of activities and times. Kudos to Elena Heiss of the National Institute of Flamenco for her national recognition and dance scholarship from the Princess Grace Foundation USA. She’s one of a handful of winners of the 2014 Princess Grace Awards for emerging artists in dance, theater and film. The winners are nominated by schools and nonprofit performing companies.
If you missed its gallery show in Peñasco last month, you can head to the Whispirit website (whispirit.net) to take a gander at its gorgeous, affordable and luxurious handmade-in-New Mexico alpaca fiber jackets, hats, scarves and other accessories. This East Mountain barn-to-closet venture from Sandy and Lee Liggett (they raise the alpacas, turn the fleece into a felted fabric and the fabric into garments) has entered the Martha Stewart American Made competition and we will hear in September whether they are a finalist. Go alpacas! Go Whispirit!
| Elena Heiss Everybody loves cookies, right? Mike Silva loved them so much that he opened Rude Boy Cookies at 115 Harvard so he could offer cookies, milk (including non-dairy milks) and his “rude boy” attitude to the city. Silva is co-owner of ABQ Trolley Company. He is working with Kristin Dowling to create the
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recipes and the cookies. The menu includes classics like chocolate chip and peanut butter, gourmet options like s’mores and oatmeal cream pies, and vegan and gluten-free choices. Ice cream and milkshakes flavored with syrups from local chocolatier Joliesse Chocolates, too! Visit rudeboycookies.com. The Placitas Artists Series kicks off its 28th season September 21 at Las Placitas Presbyterian Church with violist Willy Sucre and La Catrina Quartet. Sucre, a longtime musical presence in the Albuquerque area, is currently member of the New Mexico Philharmonic. La Catrina Quartet, based at New Mexico State University, is comprised of violinists Daniel Vega-Albela and Roberta Arruda, violist Jorge Martínez-Rios and cellist Jorge Espinoza. A pre-concert reception features the art of Dave Garner (photography), Renée Brainard Gentz (fiber art), Ann Pollard (acrylic painting) and Betty Temple (acrylic painting). Visit placitasartistsseries.org.
SANTA FE
Photo: Sergei Nurod
ALBUQUERQUE
The Museum of the American Military Family, The Telling Project, and the Bob Woodruff Foundation are proud to present Telling: Albuquerque, a testimonial theatrical performance by Albuquerque-based military veterans and military family members. The performances will take place at the South Broadway Cultural Center, September 11 through 21. All performances are free to the public. The Telling Project, a non-partisan not-for-profit organization, works with military veterans and their families to facilitate communication between veterans and civilian communities across the United States. More at thetellingproject.org.
Photo: http://www.pgfusa.com/
b y K E L LY K O E P K E
| Deborah Madison at Fuze Last year’s FUZE.SW Food + Folklore Festival was such a success, they’re doing it again! September 12 through 14 at the International Folk Art Museum, participants will explore Native American foodways and how they have influenced New Mexico’s unique culinary traditions. Two full days of panel discussions, workshops, book signings, hands-on activities and food are scheduled with an impressive roster of presenters that includes more than 60 renowned Native American and James Beard Award-winning authors and chefs, nationally recognized scholars and poets. Sunday, the public is invited for the free FUZE.SW MarketPlace, featuring New Mexico-grown, produced and prepared foods for sale, with local food trucks. Register at museumfoundation.org/ fuze or call 505.992.2715, ext. 9. One of Santa Fe’s local favorites, Dinner For Two has some new energy! Chef Andrew Barnes and his bride were married this year, and have invigorated the eatery’s 13th year of business with a new vision: a tap and tasting bar featuring New Mexico crafted beers and produce from their Cerrillos farm. They’ve added a lot of fun “bar food,” including duck ‘pato’ tacos, buttermilk-siracha fried chicken with bacon gravy, Maryland style crab cakes, duck and fig sausage, and beer battered ono fish n’ chips. Join them from 4 to 6 p.m. daily for $1 off all draft beers, and half off all appetizers at the bar. September 26 they’re
featuring New Mexico’s Black Mesa Winery’s winemaker Carl Johnson with a menu to complement the wines. Call 505.820.2075 for reservations.
| Chef Andy Barnes and his bride Melinda Gipson, a baker for more than 20 years at some of Boise’s and Santa Fe’s most popular restaurants, has opened her own charming bakery, Sweet Lily Bakery, at 229A Johnson Street. “Desserts connect family and friends—a family outing to the ice cream parlor, a giant gingerbread cookie at Christmas, sweet homemade treats by Grandma for the long trek home or a fancy dessert to end a wonderful meal with a loved one,” says Gipson. “That’s the true power of desserts, the sweetness lingers long after the flavor fades from one’s taste buds. Desserts make memories.” Sweet Lily Bakery offer a variety of desserts (including gluten-free options) of the highest caliber. Visit them on Facebook. One of the world’s best-loved zydeco bands, Buckwheat Zydeco, plays the Farmer’s Market Pavilion September 24. Stanley “Buckwheat” Dural Jr. was the first zydeco artist signed to a major record label, to perform on a national television show, and to launch his own record label. The multiGrammy nominee’s stellar recordings and tireless touring have taken the Bayou State native’s Creole-French rave-ups and soulful breakdowns to new heights worldwide. Over three decades, Buckwheat Zydeco has emerged as the best of the best. Bring your dancin’ shoes for this one. Visit brownpapertickets.com for tickets. If you’re a fan of pickles, and really, who isn’t?, then head over to Barrio Brinery, Santa Fe’s source for fine fermented foods. Opening its doors in September at 1413-B West Alameda, the shop purveys handcrafted small batches of pickled cucumbers, escabeche and other lacto-fermented (not vinegar based) goodies. Owners Pat Block and Yvette De La O started fermenting because of their passion for high-quality, hand-crafted foods and a hunch that many others in the community share that passion. Rather than just preserve food, lactofermentation actually increases the nutrients in the food as well as adding beneficial bacteria that we are finding out are essential to healthy immune function. Visit them at barriobrinery.com or call 505.699.9812 for hours. You’ll also be able to get Barrio’s treats at Santa Fe’s newest and only cheese specialty shop. John Gutierrez is co-owner and proprietor of Cheesemongers of Santa Fe at 130 E Marcy Street, opening in September.
Gutierrez has worked in cheese shops and creameries in San Francisco and elsewhere and partners with Forward Foods for this local fromagerie. The cheese cases will hold up to 150 different varieties and more for the holidays, with a 50-50 split between domestic and international choices, including some made in New Mexico. Patrons will also be able to get cold cuts, honey, jam, chocolate and breads, making Cheesemongers a must visit destination. Call 405.642.8782 for hours. Congrats to Robert Ruiz, general manager of Garrett’s Desert Inn, on being named Innkeeper of the Year by the New Mexico Lodging Association. Keep up the good work, Robert!
1710 W. Alameda, #1 • • • •
$509,000
LEED Platinum Mountain Views Separate Studio/Office 3 Bed/2 Bath
Kudos to La Fonda’s Bell Tower Bar, named to Fodor’s Travel’s list of the best 15 rooftop bars in America. Praising the sunset views, light Southwestern fare and extensive beverage menu, the write-up notes the Bell Ringer Margarita, which allows guests who try one to ring the eponymous tower’s bell. Open every day depending on the weather. Rising Stars in the Southwest’s third annual fundraiser, Reaching for the Stars: Supporting our Local Teen’s Dreams to Careers Program, is September 20 at the Governor’s Mansion. This local nonprofit dedicates itself to helping community adolescents develop their leadership skills by setting goals and focusing their direction on positive life choices. Coinciding with National Hispanic Heritage Month, this year’s event includes tapas, local wines and flamenco entertainment from Juan Siddi, Mina Fajardo and Joaquin Gallegos, as well as a silent auction featuring some of the region’s top artists and retail shops. Governor Martinez proclaimed September 20 Hispanic Youth Leadership Day, which will be honored and celebrated during the fundraising event. Tickets at risingstarssouthwest.org. New Mexico has lost a pioneer in the wine making industry. Henry Street, a member and officer of New Mexico Vine & Wine Society and the New Mexico Wine Growers Association, author of The History of Wine in New Mexico: 400 Years of Struggle, and owner with his wife Mary of Ponderosa Valley Winery, passed in July. Ponderosa grew to be the largest Riesling vineyard in New Mexico. Our condolences to Henry’s friends and family.
mls# 201402339
Next year you could be growing YOUR OWN CHILES! Both homes are in one of Santa Fe’s charming pocket neighborhoods and just five minutes from the plaza. HUGE community gardens.
1710 W. Alameda, #4 • • •
$415,000
Open Concept 2 Bed/3Bath Northern New Mexico Style
TAOS Want to win a million dollars? Head to Angel Fire Resort’s Million Dollar HoleIn-One Charity Classic on September 13 for a chance at some of the $3.6 million in cash prizes. The PGA-ranked golf course at Angel Fire Resort hosts this inaugural 18-hole charity event, open to the general public. Proceeds benefit the National Veterans Wellness and Healing Center and Big Brothers/Big Sisters of Northern New Mexico. Registration is first-come, first-served, by calling 575.377.4488. More details at angelfireresort.com
mls# 201402641
Ginger Clarke Associate Broker
Mobile: (505) 670-3645 GingerlyClarke@Gmail.com Barker Realty, llc. 530 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 982-9836 • SantaFeRealEstate.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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The Buzz
ALBUQUERQUE
Michael, Rub Gene Ellenberg, Video, 2012
Photo via SCA Contemporary Art
SCA Contemporary Art welcomes the University of New Mexico’s incoming Masters of Fine Arts graduate students as they introduce their work to the Albuquerque community at the annual At First Sight exhibition. A group composed of 17 artists from Pakistan, China, Germany and 10 states in the U.S., these artists bring fresh perspectives on art, ecology, ceramics, electronic arts, painting, drawing, photography, printmaking and sculpture. September 11 at 6 p.m., the artists will show individual presentations and discuss their work leading up to graduate school. SCA Contemporary Art is located at 524 Haines NW, and the exhibition will be up until September 12. Visit scacontemporary.com.
Photo via 516 Arts
516 ARTS opens Floyd D. Tunson: Son of Pop, a solo exhibition of Colorado-based African American artist Floyd D. Tunson, who for over four decades has been among the most highly regarded and influential artists in the Rocky Mountain region. He has achieved a rich and diverse body of work that includes painting, sculpture, photography, printmaking and mixed media. The exhibit runs September 27 through December 13 at 516 ARTS, with an artist/curator talk on September 25 at 6 p.m. in the auditorium at Central New Mexico Community College’s Smith-Brasher Hall. Visit 516arts.org for details.
September is art tour month in Santa Fe and environs. Start with the 21st annual Pojoaque River Art Tour September 20 and 21. Diverse work representing three cultures distinguishes the outstanding art tour, with 16 stops and 24 artists spaning Pojoaque Pueblo, Nambe, Pojoaque, and San Ildefonso Pueblo. On Friday, September 19, an artists’ reception hosted by Than Povi Fine Art Gallery (Exit 176 in Cuyamungue) features food and refreshment, dances, a silent auction and more. Stop by Than Povi for maps or visit pojoaqueriverarttour.com. On the last weekend of the month September 27 and 28, visit artists’ studios in beautiful Pecos, Rowe and Glorieta for the Pecos Studio Tour, representing a loosely knit group of artists living in and around the village of Pecos. Just 20 minutes from Santa Fe on I-25 north, this small community hosts a blend of unique artists in all media. More at pecosstudiotour.com.
TAOS Tour the historic studios of E.I. Couse and J.H. Sharp, two of the founders of the Taos Society of Artists, and enjoy a delightful stroll through Virginia Couse’s vintage garden when The Couse Foundation hosts an open house on September 6 at 146 Kit Carson Road. Also visit the studios of Randy LaGro, Ed Sandoval, Ann Huston, Gail Goodwin, and Gene and Sara Jean Gray. On exhibit will be E. I. Couse, the Painter and His Craft, which features Couse’s painting techniques, and examples of the photographs, drawings and sketches he used in his process. The exhibit runs until October 11. Check out couse-sharp.org for details. You’ve got two weekends to experience the High Road to Taos Scenic Byway Tour, offering magnificent vistas of snow-capped peaks, alpine meadows and charming traditional Spanish and Pueblo villages that have inspired many artists and artisans. Explore and help sustain the rural economy of this centuriesold region. Always the last two weekends of September, the 2014 tour takes place September 20, 21, 27 and 28. Details at highroadnewmexico.com.
Photo via www.HighRoadNewMexico.com
For the seventh year, the Albuquerque Art Business Association honors area artists who excel in the arts and give back to their communities. By sharing their time, talent and passion, they help give birth to the next generation of art lovers and artists and sustain the hope that New Mexico will continue to be home to thousands of working artists for many years to come. This year’s Local Treasures celebrate eight artists: Marilyn Drake, George Howard Hayes III, Reg Loving, Pam Lujan-Hauer, Marcia Newren, Augustine Romero, Dianna Shomaker and Mary Sundstrom-Gramer. The President’s Award will go to architect Bart Prince for creating extraordinary liveble art with his designs. The public awards ceremony at the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History is September 7 from 1 to 3 p.m. Go to artscrawlabq.org/local-treasures for more on all the recipients.
Leigh Gusterson Flicka’s day out
The Paseo is a festival dedicated to bringing the art of installation, performance and projection to the streets of Taos, September 26 through 28. Occurring in collaboration with the Taos Fall Arts Festival (which runs through Mark your calendars for September 15 for the launch October 5), The Paseo unites the 2014 fall arts venues, creating a new platform for the public of the International Folk Art Market’s online display of art within the Taos Historic District. marketplace. This new site will showcase the folk Workshops, artists presentations, discussions art of 18 master artists representing 16 countries. Online shoppers will be able to buy jewelry, textiles, and more. Visit taosfallarts.com and paseotaos. org for more. baskets and more! Check folkartalliance.org/ifamonline and support international artists all year long.
Floyd D Tunson Where in the Hell is Batman
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Membership is Free
505-898-6336 CORRALESGROWERSMARKET.COM
New Mexico’s 10th Annual Celebration of World Music and Culture
September 19 - 20, 2014 10 Performances Nightly • 3 Distinct Stages The Global Village of Craft, Culture & Cuisine • Artisan Beer & Wine
AFRO-CUBAN ALL STARS (Cuba) CALYPSO ROSE with KOBO TOWN (Trinidad & Tobago) | ROBERT “TREE” CODY (Intertribal) ROCKY DAWUNi (Ghana) | DVA (Czech Republic) | GOLEM (New York, USA) BETO JAMAiCA (Colombia) | OUMAR KONATÉ (Mali) | LiU FANG (China) | LO’JO (France) GABY MORENO (Guatemala) | ERKAN OĞUR’S TELViN TRiO (Turkey) | SÖNDÖRGÖ (Hungary) LOS TExMANiACS (Texas, USA) and more to come!
Online tickets and information:
globalquerque.org National Hispanic Cultural Center • Albuquerque, New Mexico USA Tickets: NHCC Box Office (505-724-4771)
FREE Global FiEsta • Sat. Sept. 20, 10:30 am - 4 pm
Food, crafts, dance, workshops, music and hands-on activities for all ages.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Photo: Gaelen Casey
the
BIG BUZZ
stor y by JOHN VOLLERTSEN
| Joel Coleman of Fire and Hops
I always think of the Wine & Chile Fiesta as the ultimate celebration of our gastronomical prowess and a capping off of the intense summer season in our restaurants and hotels. It’s a time most of our culinarians come together with one common goal: to show off their camaraderie and that one signature dish that sets them each apart. It’s also a terrific time to discover what your new favorite wines will be for the coming year.
Photo: Kitty Leaken
Photo: Jennifer Spelman
Many of the cities I’ve lived in boast that the culinary scene is one of the main reasons to live there and its main tourist attraction— but boy, nothing tops Santa Fe. It’s why I moved here 20 years ago and I’m blessed to be able to make a living in a career that keeps me well fed, well quenched and with a notebook full of gossip and happy tales about our more than 200 restaurants and the players who staff them.
| Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s of Santa Fe
| Lloyd Abrams of Georgia
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If I visit a new restaurant three times in a week, you can bet I am excited about it. Joel Coleman’s Fire and Hops gastropub is that kind of place: casual, friendly, with a large affordable menu. Almost every dish I’ve tried, I’ve loved— and I’ve pretty much sampled them all: the
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Photo: Gabriella Marks
Photo: Gabriella Marks
This past season there were new restaurants, old restaurants with new owners, old restaurants with new chefs, pop-up dinners, food trucks, coffee houses, gastropubs and cafes all vying for our attention along with all the other wonderful eateries already in business. Thinking back over the year, I must admit I didn’t get to as many of the new eateries (and there were many) as I would have liked. Here is a partial list of the places I did visit and a recap of what Santa Fe foodies are buzzing about.
| Chef Marc Quinoñes of Luminaria
fish-n-chip fritters and the green papaya salad were two faves. Joel, who has fathered two other of my favorite restaurants, Mauka and Koi, is a hardworking chef who keeps honing his skills toward more delicious food. I was sad when he left town to try out the San Francisco food scene and glad he has returned with more worldly travels under his belt; I think he’s hitting his stride.
Photo: Gabriella Marks
It’s no secret I have been a fan of Joseph Wrede’s food since I first visited his groundbreaking Taos hit, Joseph’s Table. Finally Joe has settled in locally and re-established his culinary clout with Joseph’s of Santa Fe. His dishes surprise and provoke me. Pink peppercorns pop up in an otherwise classic vichyssoise. I could dine on the half duck confit every day! Even the New York Times saw fit to celebrate Wrede’s cookery in a half-page article early this summer.
| Andrew Cooper of Terra
Izanami is a place I love to take gourmets to show them our eclectic food scene. I think founding Chef Kim Müller and her team made an impressive splash with an interesting menu served in one of the prettiest and most dramatic dining rooms in town—well, almost in town—even garnering a James Beard nomination in the best new restaurant category. Miso-glazed eggplant and shaved Brussels sprouts are must tries. Müller has recently turned the stoves over to newcomer Chef David Padberg, who comes here from Oregon. It will be interesting to sample his additions to the menu and don’t forget you can soak and stay at Ten Thousand Waves pre or post your meal.
Photo: Joy Godfrey
Georgia, next to the O’Keeffe Museum is getting lots of buzz. I’ve had a great meal in the stately dining room as well as yummy casual food (plump and garlicky mussels, voluminous crab cakes, Sherry vinegar-splashed shishito peppers) in the handsome bar. Kudos go to owner Lloyd Abrams, who transformed and enlarged the once claustrophobic space into a restaurant to be reckoned with. I asked Abrams, who is one of the partners at Geronimo, if he felt his new venture might be competing with himself. He replied, “No, I think folks will dine at both of my restaurants.” I like his spunk. With Chef Brett Sparman in the kitchen (he hopscotched across town from Loretto’s Luminaria), you know you’re in for some absolutely great food.
| James Campbell Caruso of Más
New-to-town Chef Marc Quinoñes took over at Luminaria—one of the prettiest outdoor dining destinations in town. I was impressed with the young chef ’s cooking after enjoying a tasting menu as I did research for Local Flavor. I’m looking forward to trying foie gras “French toast,” and strawberry brined duck with duck fat risotto—wow! Quinoñes made a big impression with diners in Albuquerque before coming here and we’re lucky to have him. There were some fun and different dining opportunities this year with pop-up dinners and one-night food events. The ever-in-motion Andrew Cooper out at Four Seasons Rancho Encantado added a beautiful chefs table to his kitchen to lure gourmands who like to get up close and personal with kitchen activity. Rocky Durham, over at the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, had his students cooking some scrumptious vittles at the charming Guesthouse restaurant, which serves as a classroom for the emerging culinarians. I went to two pop-ups at Mu Du Noodles, one a celebration of regional Mexican cooking and another by soon-to-be restaurateur Paulraj Karuppasamy of Paper Dosa, who has been wowing with his fantastic East Indian cooking around town. Along with the continued celebration of the farm-to-table concept at many local eateries, small artisan businesses are cropping up that support that fresh and local notion. The Real Butcher Shop continues to grow and develop while two new establishments—the Barrio Brinery, owned by Patrick Block, and Cheese Mongers of Santa Fe, owned by John Gutierrez—will keep epicureans up to their belly in pickles and cheese—I can’t wait! (More on these two exciting developments next month…)
Photo: Gabriella Marks
At Epazote on the Hillside, Chef Fernando Olea has diners cooking their meals on hot rocks right out of the roaring pizza oven. It’s a lovely greenhouse setting with many other dishes rounding out the menu, including Olea’s famous moles.
| Chef David Padberg of Izanami
Some chefs spread their wings and headed out of town with satellite versions of their original. The amazing James Campbell Caruso is showing Albuquerque what Santa Fe chefs are all about at his booming restaurant, Más in the sexy Hotel Andaluz. The very sophisticated dining room is the perfect venue for his trend-setting tapas. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Photo: Gabriella Marks
Chef Tony Smith has been holding down the fort during the ownership transition at the Eldorado Hotel and even had time to create his own English Bitter style ale, Chefter’s Ale. The thirsty Brit teamed up with the Santa Fe Brewing Company to produce the brew and although I am not a beer drinker, my peeps that are love it. | John Sedlar of Eloisa
I loved a recent dinner prepared by Tomas Allan Keller, the new chef at the Galisteo Bistro—the kid’s a pro though only 23. His partner is his father Brant Keller. Both hail from Florida and are a welcome addition to our community.
| Tony Smith of The Old House
Photo: Gabriella Marks
L.A. chef (and former Santa Fean) John Sedlar sets his sights on the City Different with Eloisa, due to open this fall at the swanky Drury Plaza Hotel. Sedlar grew up here and through the years has set the trend when it comes to promoting our Latin culinary heritage. I’ve dined at all of his previous restaurants, including St. Estephe, Rivera and Playa, and he really is a celebrity chef in my book, based on all I’ve tasted. It will be interesting to see how he competes on his home turf.
| Renee Fox and Dave Readyhough of Loyal Hound
Loyal Hound satisfies the gastropub crowd in the midtown neighborhood—try the devilled eggs, delish. If you missed the Flavor’s story on them in the August issue, go online to find it. A great couple with tons of experience in hospitality. Restaurant Martín added a nifty dining room addition to extend the patio and offer a terrific new party venue. With wife Jennifer, who somehow manages to run the restaurant and The Horse Shelter, Chef Martin Rios continually garners national media attention (he was once an Iron Chef contestant) and still takes the time to volunteer for Cooking with Kids, an organization that I also work with and adore.
Photo: Gabriella Marks
Burger wars heated up with three hotspots all within a buns throw of each other. I can’t decide if I love Brian Knox’s Shake Foundation rendition, Bang Bite’s burgers (one has pork belly on it) or Santa Fe Bite’s more classic version … so many burgers, so little time. Whew! With the world getting crazier and crazier, I’m happy to hear that some of the players in the hospitality field are committing to a healthier lifestyle with one chef happily attesting to his faith on social media as the place he goes for support in his work. What a great idea—amen to that! | Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín 16
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Free live music! Saturdays 2-5pm in the Courtyard * Wednesdays 8:30-11pm in the Saloon *Trash Disco @ 9:30pm w/DJ Oona, the Last Wednesday of every month *Limelight Karaoke Thursdays @ 10pm
*Always serving delicious food* Tues-Saturday 11am-1am (yes 1am!) Sunday 4pm-11:30pm
Palace Happy Hour 4:30-6:30
Buy one, get one 50% off on all Cicchetti (Italian tapas) $3 Select drafts & bottles $5 House Margarita, $8 Silver Coin $5 Well drinks $6 Red & White wine 1873
alace Restaurant & Saloon
The Palace Restaurant & Saloon
505 428 0690
Savory September! Winemaker Dinner Featuring Gruet
Five beautifully balanced courses for a smooth, enjoyable evening Thursday, September 25th • 6:30pm • $99++ per person
Opus One Wine Dinner
Celebrate Wine & Chile week with an expertly paired wine dinner Friday, September 26th • 6:30pm • $250++ per person
Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Globally Inspired Cuisine
Secure a Reservation: 505.995.4530
Sushi & Raw Bar Weekday Lunch Specials Daily Happy Hour with Food & Drink Features
309 W. San Francisco Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • EldoradoHotel.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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SEPT 2–29
Chef Andy Barnes announces
The Tap & Tasting Bar at
Visions of Nature
Reception: Friday, Sept 5, 5–8pm 6pm Artist Insights: Tricia H. Love featured artists:
Tricia H. Love | Watercolor James Janis | Photography Carol Lopez | Encaustic Sept Salon Exhibit: Michael Meyer
inner for Two
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Featuring
New Mexico Beers & Wines & Top 10 Appetizers! ‘Pato’ Tacos: Duck Confit Tacos El Rito Lamb Balls on House Made Duck Buns Duck & Fig Sausage w/ Caramelized Peppers House Made Coconut Shrimp Southern Style Crab Cakes Truffled Pommes Frites Fried Chicken & Bacon Gravy Calamari Ceviche ‘Ono’ Fish n’ Chips w/ Truffle scented Chips Buttermilk Fried Chicken Strips & Bacon Gravy Grilled Pear w/ Fresh Burrata Crispy Onion Strings
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Santa Fe’s Neighborhood Restaurant ~ Downtown!
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inner for Two 106 N. Guadalupe Street, SF, NM 505-820-2075 • dinnerfortwo@qwestoffice.net
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Happy Hour ~ Everyday 4-6:30 Using the freshest local ingredients including herbs from our very own garden 50 East San Francisco Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.982.2044 • sanfranbargrill.com
BBQ & Cockt ails
You’ve got lots of options during Santa Fe’s Wine & Chile Fiesta!
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Elevating Santa Fe’s optical experience with refreshing & artistic independent eyewear. Supporting Our Local Teens Dreams to Careers Program
Most of the eyewear in the world is produced by a few companies. We would like to show you something different!
125 LINCOLN AVE., SUITE 114 • 988.4444
OJOOPTIQUE.COM • FACEBOOK • TWITTER
FLAMENCO - TAPAS - SILENT AUCTION Saturday, September 20th • Governor’s Mansion • 5:30pm TICKETS & INFORMATION: $50 at Alphagraphics & The Spanish Table or purchase online: www.RisingStarsSouthwest.org PLEASE KNOW TICKETS WILL NOT BE SOLD AT THE DOOR. LAST DAY FOR SALES IS SEPTEMBER 17TH
Call 505.216.6049 for Information
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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0814 iota lf.pdf
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8/27/14
7:40 PM
A N I N V I TAT I O N T O C E L E B R AT E T W O WORLD CLASS DINNERS WITH PREMIER WINES
2014 Santa Fe Wine & Chile Dinners Wednesday, September 24th C
M
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Four-Course Prix Fixe Menu Featuring: Calera Wines $105.00
Thursday, September 25th Five-Course Prix Fixe Menu
Featuring: Grgich Hills Estate $150.00
CMY
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EXECUTIVE CHEF JUAN BOCHENSKI For Reservations, call (505) 988-3236
A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi 113 Washington Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-3030 路 rosewoodhotels.com
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HOME OF THE
At the Railyard VINTAGE • USED • NEW Open 7 days a week 345 W. Manhattan Santa Fe, New Mexico 505.984.1256 www.kowboyz.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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photos
C O M P L I M E N T S O F S A N TA F E
GREAT
Photo: Kate Russell
W I N E & C H I L E F I E S TA
T
he days grow short when you reach September, as the lyric laments. Doesn’t that make the nights grow longer? Still adds up to twenty-four hours. And during the 24th annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta (SFWC), September 24 through 28, most of those hours are filled to the brim with tastings—Reserve and Grand— luncheons, seminars, auctions, cooking demonstrations, outings, wine dinners and celebrations, planned and spontaneous, throughout our town and county. Always an ambitious and stellar event, this year’s fiesta brings the first Gran Fondo bike ride, a kind of party on wheels. A 75 mile route (there’s a 45 mile shortcut for the more casual rider) will take participants through northern New Mexico villages, beginning and ending at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado, where a Ruinart Champagne brunch will await at the finish line. If you prefer, you may skip the pedal and go straight to the tipple. 22
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Expectations
story by JAMES SELBY
In past issues of Local Flavor, we’ve featured any number of visiting VIPs drawn to Santa Fe Wine and Chile. This year, we take off our hat to a very special, four-star habitué—you, the guest of our renowned fiesta. Because it’s for you—patron lover of wine and food—that wineries, writers, chefs and sommeliers show up. But, who are you? Where do you come from? Why our Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta? Allow us to acquaint you. Nancy and Bill Kitchen, 52 and 55, from Oklahoma City, were celebrating a wedding anniversary in Santa Fe when they first heard about SFWC. “We’ve never missed a year since we started attending nearly 15 years ago,” says Nancy. “We have several friends we met at the Grand Tasting on our first visit that we still look forward to seeing each year. We meet up for breakfast or to watch a sunset at the La Fonda Bell Tower, go to The Shed at least once and walk up Canyon Road.” When asked if they’ve participated in any of the workshops, Nancy replies, “We’ve never done a cooking demo or wine seminar. Not sure why, other than we cram so much fun into our four days, we kind of run out of time. We didn’t know there was a bike ride this year. If we can get our bikes out there we’ll do it.” The Kitchens always attend the Reserve and Grand Tastings, looking for favorite wineries like Peachy Canyon and Robert Mondavi. Asked if they recall any funny or memorable moments, the Kitchens say, “One year, we were interviewed by a Dutch or Swiss media group. They were enamored that we were from ‘Okiehoma’ and wanted to hear about the teepees. Crazy!”
Photo: Kate Russell
“I am the daughter of two career restaurant employees,” says Starr Bowers, 37, who lives in Santa Fe and is a server. What attracts her to SFWC, she says, “is the opportunity to taste many amazing wines in one venue and then reflect on my notes from year to year.” Between attending events (“Chef Dakota Weiss of Los Angeles did a cooking demo that I loved: getting the perfect sear on a scallop”) and working them (such as this year’s luncheon with James Beard-nominated chefs Kevin Nashan of Sydney Cafe in St. Louis and Martín Rios at Restaurant Martín with wines from Oregon), Starr enjoys catching up with friends. “The Fiesta brings a lot of people into town that I’ve met through the trade,” she says. As to the Grand Tasting? “Having it in one locale for the day is great. My love for all-things-wine means many wineries pique my interest.” Among winemakers she admires: “The late Alfredo Currado (Vietti), Joseph Henriot, Marc Colin—the list is long,” she says. Is there a favorite? “OK, Ruinart. There, I said it!” Any reflections? “I wish restaurants would live a little. It seems food used to be a bigger part of the show. Now there are a lot of easy braised dishes, BBQ, desserts, et cetera. I’d like to see the best foot forward instead of the easy foot.” Outdoor events, like Gruet’s Sunday Golf Classic? “Not really my thing. I’d drive the golf cart, though.”
Photo: Kate Russell
Neal Skiver and Paula Bertino, both in their mid-50’s, reside in Santa Fe and first attended in the early 1990s when the Grand Tasting was held in the parking lot of a Santa Fe hotel, and they’ve come every year since. One of the best events for them is the Guest Chef Luncheon and Master Sommelier Throw Down, held at the Coyote Cafe. (Each of four chefs chooses a wine to pair with his or her course, as does one of the sommeliers. The guests, who don’t know who picked which wine, vote on the best pairing of each course and decide the winning combo.) The couple will attend several wine dinners this year (Taberna/Ontanon, Arroyo Vino/ Malvira) and the Reserve Tasting. Are they familiar with Gruet Winery of New Mexico, the 2014 honoree? “Yes, we find it throughout the country. We love their sparking Rosé and the Pinot Noir.” As to what attracts them year after year, Paula says, “Everyone is just so happy to be at each event.”
Photo: Kate Russell
From Sarasota, Florida, bartender and outdoor enthusiast Susan Walko, 37, attended the Grand Tasting in 2009 and 2010. She says, “I love the location, time of year, the quality of the vendors and the hiking.” Asked to compare it with the Corks & Forks Food & Wine Festival in Sarasota, Susan says, “The Grand Tasting is held in the garden courtyard of the Ringling Museum of Art. It’s a beautiful venue and attracts prestigious wineries. However, the space is cramped and the lines are long. SFWC seems to have better food, the weekday events are more thought out and space at the Grand Tasting [held at the Santa Fe Opera] is, well, crowded, but less so.” She adds, “I love chile!”
Photo: Kate Russell
Jack Stamm, a Santa Fe real estate investor, is especially attracted to Bordeaux blends. “I love many of the marvelous California producers: Silver Oak, Hess Collection, Jordan and Markham,” he says, adding, “I often forget to mention French, Australian and Italian winemakers!” His go-to events? “The Reserve Tasting and silent auction are outstanding, and the Grand. I’ve got tickets in my hot little hands!” Stamm, 70, has been to the VinDiego Wine and Food Festival in San Diego and the Sonoma County Wine Road Barrel Tasting. “Each venue is unique to its time and place, as is Santa Fe,” says Jack. “With all Santa Fe has to offer, we are in a class all our own.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Photo: Kate Russell
Than Povi Fine Art Gallery
John Sherdon, handsome with a pencil mustache, and the lithe and lovely Blake Gordon Sherdon, suited for Chanel, are a casting director’s dream of Nick and Nora Charles should any filmmaker wish to remake “The Thin Man.” Hardworking Santa Fe professionals, they find time to pursue their love of wine and food, grow vegetables and eat well, and they are always seeking. “We’re long-time goers since, well, we were of age, about ten years, now,” says John. “It’s a festive and iconic Santa Fe experience with its beautiful early fall weather.” The two converse easily together like ice dancers in sync. “The Grand Tasting is definitely a fashion event,” says Blake, “super Santa Fe, upscale, a great blend of styles. I’ve learned to dress appropriately: flat shoes, no heels; no white clothes. Dark!” John puts in, “There’s a social element. You’re constantly running into friends and characters. We hold an annual Champagne party with nibbles on the Saturday morning of the Grand to start the day.” Blake says, “I’d love to get to the chef demonstration with Michelle Bernstein.” (The Beard-winning chef of Michy’s in Miami, to be held at the Santa Fe School of Cooking.) Outside of SFWC, they’ve traveled to the Durango Wine Experience, which “is on par with Santa Fe,” says Blake. “We also go to the Taos Winter Wine Festival,” says John. “You meet a lot of winemakers. The ones who like to ski, anyway.” Each person interviewed was asked to rate the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta on a scale of 100, just the way wines are scored in Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate. The average score is 98 points—a doozey! At every turn throughout the whole shebang, there are ample opportunities to nose-out wines, food, restaurants, bigwigs, parties, activities and people. A coterie of neighbors and travelers perhaps from your hometown or favorite city, alums of your college, Franco, Greco, Anglo or oenophile, simpatico friends with whom to share a toast, a laugh, a meal and watch mountain aspens as they sing their September song. As the days dwindle down to a precious few—these few golden days—we’ll share with you. For dates, events, schedules, and ticket information: santafewineandchile.org.
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Authentic Native American Art
From The Twenty-Two Tribes Of New Mexico
Over 100 Artists represented under one roof
OPEN DAILY 10AM - 6PM
Located North of the Santa Fe Opera Hwy 84/285 | Exit 176 Next to Gabriel’s Restaurant www.thanpovi.com | 505.455.9988
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seventy west marcy street • 505.982.1399 • wearaboutssf.com
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe (at the corner of Guadalupe and Johnson) 800.982.4688 505.983.4511 santafeschoolofcooking.com
Curtis & Ammerma
The school features hands-on and demonstration classes taught by some of Santa Fe’s best chefs and a market filled with your favorite New Mexican products and foods. Our signature restaurant walking tours are your entrée to the delicious flavors of Santa Fe and our beautiful new space and outdoor patio are perfect for your special events and private gatherings. Visit us online at santafeschoolofcooking.com.
THE FOODS OF NEW ME XICO
Come TO C k. COME TO EAT. COME To SHOP.
LOOK FOR OU R N E W CO O K BO O K December 20 14
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TIM GAISER
Master Sommelier
story by ERIN BROOKS
studying for the Certified Sommelier Exam, particularly when it came to advice on how to become a better blind taster. The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta is proud to host Tim each year for the week’s events, including the highly anticipated Guest Chef Luncheon and Master Sommelier Throw-down as well as various wine seminars. In 2010, Tim worked with the Everyday Genius Institute and behavioral scientist Tim Hallbom to deconstruct his own wine tasting strategy. Since then, Gaiser has researched how we subconsciously process our sensory experience of the world, a concept known as submodalities. He believes an understanding of how our minds subconsciously work can be used to improve sommeliers’ sensory memory for blind tasting as well as to help other professionals whose careers depend on the olfactory and gustatory senses. I sat down with Tim to talk about how his research on submodalities has changed his own tasting process as well as how he teaches tasting. Erin Brooks: What exactly is blind tasting? Tim Gaiser: The premise of blind tasting, specifically for the Court of Master Sommeliers, is about the sommelier being able to describe wine to a guest at a table in a restaurant. We do this using a deductive tasting grid which is an outline that helps us describe the sight, nose and palate of a wine. When tasting a wine blind, all this information can be used to help us come to the best conclusion of what the wine could be. We also ask students to describe and identify wines using this same tasting grid. Photo: Compliments of Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta
EB: Why is blind tasting an important part of the sommelier’s profession? TG: Blind tasting, again, helps sommeliers describe a wine to a guest. It also speaks to a sommelier’s overall experience and skill. They have to be able to perform all the necessary components of wine service as well as knowing about the theory of wine. But one of the measures of skill for anyone in the wine industry is how well they taste. EB: What are submodalities?
Tim Gaiser is one of the world’s top wine experts and educators. One of only 219 people in the world ever to achieve the title Master Sommelier, he is the former Director of Education and Education Chair for the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas. Tim is also an adjunct professor at the Rudd Center for Professional Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley. In the course of his more than 25-year career, he’s taught thousands of students at all levels about wine and spirits. Tim is one of the most influential teachers I’ve had the pleasure of working with. He was a great resource for me when I was
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TG: Submodalities are basically the structure of our internal experience. It’s literally how we think. “Moda” in Greek refers to the senses. Modalities are our five senses as we experience the outside world: sight, sound, feel, smell and taste. We use these same modalities internally to process our experience but these modalities also have structural qualities. For example, everybody thinks in pictures and movies but these pictures have location, size, dimension and other qualities to them. If you feel fuzzy or dull, chances are the pictures in your head are also fuzzy and dull. There are infinite examples like this but usually we’re not aware of them because they’re at the unconscious level. EB: Why has discovering the concept of submodalities been so important for you? TG: Realizing we do this stuff inside our heads and paying attention to the structure and qualities of what goes on internally is almost as important as the content itself. Being aware of internal process also allows
Wine vector by tredici
you to have more control over your own experience. I think the best thing about submodalities is that you can figure out what makes you feel good so you can do it consciously more often. At the same time, you can take things that you don’t feel good about and alter them so they have minimal, if any, impact on you. Submodalities are probably the most profound thing I’ve ever learned in terms of being able to control your experience in the world and how you can alter your thinking—for the better, hopefully. EB: How do submodalities apply to blind tasting? TG: Submodalities apply to blind tasting in terms of being able to accurately identify aromas and flavors in a wine. They also help in accurately calibrating how much acid, alcohol and tannin is in a wine. They can even help us to identify grape varieties and wines. Something I discovered using submodalities over the last couple of years was that I visually calibrate the structure of wine—the levels of acid, alcohol, tannin and finish. When people first start tasting and they’re asked about the structure of the wine it’s really a crapshoot. What’s medium-plus versus high tannin? What does that feel like? I think people do much better with some kind of visual confirmation. What I discovered I do internally is that I literally see a scale in my mind’s eye. It goes from low to high with markers along the way and it has a red button positioned in the middle on “medium” that moves. So when I taste for acidity, for example, I mentally watch the red button move until it stops. Then I mentally point to it and say to myself, “It’s right there—it’s mediumplus.” So I have a physiological match to a visual confirmation. EB: How has learning about submodalities affected the way you taste and teach others to taste? TG: Awareness of it has made me not only a better taster but also a better teacher. It’s given me another language to teach tasting. Before, I was trying to teach students using my own experiences and how I taste, but that doesn’t work because everybody’s thinking processes—and memories—are so different. The concept of submodalities gave me the tools to let students know exactly what they do and how they can use what they already have to be successful with the Master Sommelier tasting grid. That’s very exciting. Now when I teach students, my first mission is to find out what they already do internally and what’s easy for them. When you’re doing something in a way that’s easy for you it means you’re doing it right. The only thing I care about is to give talented students tools to have more success and to make it easier to taste wine. EB: What do you say to someone who argues that blind tasting is just a parlor trick? TG: Not true. Blind tasting is a skill that’s practiced and it’s all about our internal memory, primarily olfactory memory, which is usually attached to visual memory. But kinesthetic memory is important too in terms of calibrating the structure of the wine. So even though we talk about getting the identity of a wine correct, being able to describe the wine intelligently is anything but a parlor trick. It’s a skill that’s accumulated with experience over time. EB: Where is your research on submodalities taking you now? TG: In August I’ll be in Seattle for the Society of Wine Educators Conference, where I’ll give a presentation on my tasting project. So far I’ve conducted about 18 formal interviews that are about 90 minutes to two hours long each in which I deconstruct people’s tasting strategies. I’ve also worked with a couple of expert-level perfumers to do the same thing and soon I’ll be speaking to a tea expert. The whole project is about memory strategies and how these experts use submodalities to remember what things smell like. But in working with really good tasters I hope to discover strategies that anyone at any level can try. Imagine trying somebody’s strategy and finding out that tasting is suddenly so much easier. The next thing I plan to work on is helping people who have test anxiety and creating strategies for overcoming those fears. There are a handful of students at both the advanced and master level I’m working with who haven’t done well in exams simply because they have issues with testing. I’m going to work with them and figure out strategies that can help with test anxiety.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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FOR SPECIALS!
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Thank you, New Mexico, for 25 incredible years! FROM ALL OF US AT GRUET WINERY, MAY OUR NEXT 25 YEARS BE JUST AS SPARKLING. 8400 PAN AMERICAN FRWY NE, ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO 87113; 505-821-0055; WWW.GRUETWINERY.COM SHARE YOUR #GRUETWINERY TOASTS WITH US ON:
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Home-grown flavors and global cuisine that will delight your senses and nourish your body & soul Cafe Hours: Daily 8:30am-9pm 333 W Cordova Rd • 505·986·0362 A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Celebrating
25 Years With Gruet
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story by ERIN BROOKS photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
| Nathalie and Laurent Gruet
When I walk through the front door of Gruet Winery in Albuquerque, I’m hit with the wonderful smells of wine production: the sweet, fragrant aroma of freshly pressed grapes and the earthy smell of oak barrels. I can hear the gentle, highpitched clinking of bottles as they move through the bottling line. Laurent Gruet, the son of founder Gilbert Gruet and the company’s winemaker, shows me around the winery.
There are several containers of fresh Chardonnay grapes just in from the vineyard waiting to be pressed. Nearby, a giant hydraulic grape press reaches nearly to the warehouse ceiling. Rows of tanks, the largest of which can hold 60,000 bottles of wine, fill one room. Workers scurry across the wet concrete floor busy with various tasks. Bottles ready to be sold move like little soldiers through the bottling line. Each bottle is disgorged, topped up, corked, labeled and prepared for sale—a thousand cases per day. It’s a beautiful, circular process that symbolizes how far Gruet has come in 25 years. I sat down with Laurent to talk about the history and future of Gruet, and to find out what the future may hold for the wine industry in the Land of Enchantment. Gilbert Gruet was born in Bethon, France, in 1931. He dreamed of making high-quality Champagne and in 1967 he started a co-op in Bethon where he convinced farmers to tear out sugar beets in favor of vineyards. After successfully making Champagne in France, Gilbert decided to open a winery in the U.S. but found that land in California was too expensive. After traveling through the Southwest, Gilbert discovered that New Mexico had ideal conditions for the production of sparkling wine. The price was right and in 1984 he planted vineyards in the town of Engle, in southern New Mexico. His children, Laurent and Nathalie, moved to New Mexico to help and Laurent has been making wine here for the last 29 years. So what is it, exactly, that makes New Mexico ideal for the production of sparkling wine? Laurent says there were several factors that drew his father to plant vineyards here. “New Mexico is special because we are at a high altitude,” he explains. This creates a large swing in temperature from day to night, which results in grapes that retain acidity, a key factor in the production of sparkling wine. “The climate is also very dry,” he continues, “so it’s disease-free. There’s no mildew or rot, which means that the quality of the crop is very consistent.” Last, and possibly most surprising, is the soil in New Mexico. “The soil is very poor,” Laurent says, “which is great for vineyards.” The poorer the soil, the deeper the vines’ roots must dig into the subsoil in search of nutrients, which results in concentrated, flavorful grapes and better wine. Gruet has come a long way in 25 years. When the company released its first sparkling wine in 1989, produced in a rented facility in Albuquerque, people thought they were a bit crazy. But the Gruet family never doubted. Laurent says, “I knew we could make great wine here because of the soil and the climate.” Others weren’t so sure, but the quality of the sparkling wine spoke for itself. “Taste the wine,” Laurent said to people, “and then tell me I’m crazy.” Then and now, Gruet holds its own against other sparkling wines and Champagnes in blind tastings. In the beginning, Gruet produced only about 2,000 cases. “Now, we are making 125,000 cases a year,” Laurent says, laughing. “It’s great!” This year, Gruet partnered with Seattle-based Precept Wine, a large family-owned wine company that will provide sales, marketing, public relations and events services for the growing company. Gruet is hoping to increase production to 250,000 cases in the next five years and to broaden its market to include other countries. All this means more work for Laurent, but he’s full of passion for winemaking and very excited to increase production. He tells me with a smile that he’s spent his whole life working 18-hour days in the winery but still loves it. “When harvest arrives, I smell the wine and it’s happiness for me. I love what I do.” A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Growing the business also means Gruet will be able to make more of its high-end wines, which are currently only offered in limited quantities. Although Gruet is most famous for its Brut and Blanc de Noirs labels, the winery also produces a vintage Blanc de Blanc, a grand reserve that’s aged seven years on the lees and a Grand Rosé. Laurent says, “These wines are the next level. Of course, the price is higher so we don’t make much, but it’s another step in terms of quality to make more of these high-end wines.” For Laurent, the future of Gruet boils down to quality. “My expectation for more volume is to make wines of even better quality. And improving the quality of Gruet means improving the value.” Price is an important factor for the company, which needs to stay competitive in a crowded market that Laurent describes as wall-to-wall. “You cannot be too expensive,” he emphasizes. “You can always find wine from countries like Chile or Argentina with amazing value. If you are too expensive, people will buy something else.” Quality is key for the future of not only Gruet but the wine industry in New Mexico as a whole. Although grapes have been grown here for hundreds of years, modern day commercial wineries have only been around for the past 25 years or so. “When I first came to New Mexico, I couldn’t drink the wines because they weren’t made very well,” Laurent remembers. “Now, slowly, we have some wineries that are starting to be driven by quality.” He believes that quality wine produced in New Mexico must start in the vineyards. Wineries should plant their own vineyards because “it means a big difference in quality,” he explains. The idea is that the quality of the fruit will be higher and more suited to the purposes of a specific winery if that winery has control over the fruit. More New Mexico vineyards will increase quality and, also, growers and winemakers will begin to discover which varietals work best here. “Which grapes will make the best wine in New Mexico?” Laurent wonders. “In 100 years, it will be obvious, but right now, we are in the process of discovering.” Gruet is hoping to be part of this process by planting more of its own vineyards in addition to those it already owns in Engle. The company does purchase grapes from growers in Deming as well as other states, including California and Washington. But this year, Gruet planted a new vineyard near Santa Ana Pueblo (you’ve probably noticed the vines if you’ve driven from Albuquerque to Santa Fe recently). The Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Munier grapes will become part of the blend for Gruet wines in the future. While I walk with Laurent through the winery, I ask him if he thinks others in New Mexico will follow in Gruet’s footsteps and start making sparkling wine. He doesn’t think so. The process of making sparkling wine is very specialized, especially if it’s made by the methode champenoise, the traditional process used in Champagne and the process used by Gruet. It involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle and an extended aging period, which ties up inventory. Gruet, for example, ages its non-vintage wines for 18 months. This is great for the quality of the wine—aging on the lees (dead yeast cells) is what gives sparkling wines and Champagnes their distinctive biscuit aromas and creamy mouthfeel. But this means that the grapes harvested in 2014 won’t make it to the shelves until much later—so profit is delayed. The specialized equipment required for sparkling wine production is also very expensive. So how does Gruet make such great sparkling wines while maintaining reasonable prices? “When you make sparkling wine,” Laurent says, “you are in the wine business for a lifetime.” It takes years of investment and hard work to succeed in sparkling winemaking, but Gruet has done just that. The winery has achieved a presence on the national scene and even earned a spot on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 List in 2011. As with New Mexico’s wine industry as a whole, Gruet’s future is all about quality. “Our wines are very good,” Laurent says, “but for a winemaker, the goal is always to make better wine. We want to push production to a new level of quality. That’s the drive and it’s exciting,” he says, adding, “and it is possible.” The Gruet Winery is located at 8400 Pan American Reeway NE in Albuquerque. 505.821.0055. gruetwinery.com. 34
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Chefs with an Attitude... – must be the altitude!
Francisco Aguilar T., Pizzeria da Lino; Giovanni Paz, El Farol; Christian Pontiggia, Osteria d’Assisi; Josh Geruin, Dr. Field Goods
Look out, Plaza! Here come the midtown chefs… (Bottom row) Houssem Rzig, Pyramid Cafe; Renée Fox, Loyal Hound; Ziggy Rzig, Omira Grill and Pyramid Cafe; Josh Gerwin, Dr. Field Goods; Mamadi Kaba, Pyramid Cafe; Gabriel Varela, Omira Grill; Carlos Olivar, Sweet Water; (top row) Dave Readihough, Loyal Hound; Ahmed Obo, Jambo Café; Angel Estrada, Midtown Bistro; Luis Almeida, Midtown Bistro; Luis Espana, Jambo Café
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Thank you to the great staff at La Fonda for hosting this year’s All-Chef’s Shoot.
It’s a bird, it’s a plane – no, it’s Super Chefs! Thanks for working with Cooking With Kids! (Bottom row) Juan Bochenski, Anasazi Restaurant; Andrew Cooper, Terra; Ahmed Obo, Jambo Café; Tony Smith, Old House; (top row) James Campbell Caruso, La Boca; Rocky Durham, SF Culinary Academy; Christian Pontiggia, Osteria d’Assisi; Josh Gerwin, Dr. Field Goods
And now, from the kitchens of some of the finest hotels in the world – Santa Fe’s hotel hotshots! (Bottom row) Alesandro Hernandez and Juan Bochenski, Anasazi; Tom Kerpon, Bishop’s Lodge; Andrew Cooper, Four Seasons; Marc Quiñones, Loretto; Tony Smith, Eldorado; Jose Guzman, Inn of the Governors; Lane Warner, La Fonda; (top row) Matt Ostrander, La Posada de Santa Fe; Jeffrey Kaplan, SF Marriott; Elizabeth DeSantis, Four Seasons; Marc Najmi, Loretto
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TRANSFORM YOUR HORSE & DOG Myofascial release for horses & dogs Cranio-sacral • In-mouth Bodywork clinics for owners
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SEPTEMBER 2014
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Don’t let the good looks fool you – these are the toughest chefs in town! Pavia Olivas, Adelitas Restaurant; Yadira Rodriguez, Adelitas Restaurant; Rebecca Freeman, Geronimo; Elizabeth DeSantis, Terra; Rosa Lemus, SantaCafé; Renée Fox, Loyal Hound
Don’t be shy – say hi to the new kids on the block!
Photo: Joy Godfrey
Pablo Aguilar, Alameda Cafe; Enrique Zambrano, Alameda Cafe; David Padberg, Izanami; Xavier Grenet, L’Olivier; Santiago Ceja Campos, L’Olivier; Renée Fox, Loyal Hound; Dave Readihough, Loyal Hound
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Photo: Joy Godfrey
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Presciliano Ruiz Chef Cafe Pasqual’s Genaro Santos Line Cook Jinja Fernando Flores Chef Jinja * Tom Kerpon Chef Las Fuentes/Bishop’s Lodge Ruben Terrazas Chef Ristra Agustin Bencomo Chef Vanessie Sllin Cruz Chef de Cuisine Geronimo Nelson Trujillo Sous Chef El Farol Giovanni Paz Exec. Chef El Farol Jaime Villalobos Sous Chef Geronimo LeRoy Alvarado Sous Chef Epazote Xavier Grenet Owner/Chef L’Olivier Santiago Ceja Campos Sous Chef L’Olivier Ricardo Zambrano A. Sous Chef Pizzeria da Lino Ismael Najera Sous Chef Osteria d’Assisi Francisco Aguilar T. Chef Pizzeria da Lino Matt Ostrander Chef La Posada de Santa Fe Andrew Cooper Exec. Chef Terra Elizabeth DeSantis Pastry Chef Terra Juan Guerra Lead Line Cook Joseph’s Dale Kester Sous Chef Joseph’s David Padberg Exec. Chef Izanami Fernando Ruiz Exec. Chef SantaCafe 40
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Rosa Lemus** Felix E. Ramirez Rebecca Freeman Javier Castillo Moises Garcia*** Jeffrey Kaplan Lane Warner Peter Vigil Noé Cano Evan Doughty Joshua Ortiz Tony Blankenship Christian Pontiggia Renée Fox Dave Readihough Tony Smith Carlos Alvarado**** Luis Espana Ahmed Obo Juan A. Ruvalcaba † Francisco Celote Jose Guzman Marc Quiñones
Pastry Chef SantaCafé Sous Chef SantaCafé Pastry Chef Geronimo Kitchen Manager The Ranch House Asst. Kitchen Manager The Ranch House Exec. Chef The Bistro @ SF Marriott Exec. Chef La Pazuela/La Fonda Banquet Chef La Fonda Chef de Cuisine SF School of Cooking Chef Quail Run Exec. Chef Palace Exec. Chef Rio Chama Exec. Chef Osteria d’Assisi Owner/Chef Loyal Hound Owner Loyal Hound Exec. Chef Old House/Eldorado Exec. Sous Chef Restaurant Martín Chef Jambo Café Owner/Chef Jambo Café Head Cook Restaurant Martín Head Cook Restaurant Martín Exec. Chef Del Charro/Inn of the Governors Exec. Chef Luminaria/Loretto
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Marc Najmi Exec. Sous Chef Luminaria Jose Rodriguez Chef Plaza Cafe Southside James Campbell Caruso Owner/Chef La Boca Rocky Durham Exec. Chef/Co-Founder SF Culinary Academy Jose L. Rodriguez Exec. Chef La Boca - Taberna Gerardo Torres Pastry Chef Plaza Cafe Southside Pablo Aguilar Chef Alameda Cafe Enrique Zambrano Sous Chef Alameda Cafe Gabriel Varela Sous Chef Omira Grill Houssem Rzig Chef Pyramid Cafe †† Ziggy Rzig Owner Omira Grill/Pyramid Cafe Israel Celote Chef 315 Restaurant Mariano Martinez Chef Cuisine 315 Restaurant Carlos Olivar Exec. Chef Sweet Water Josh Geruín Owner/Chef Dr. Field Goods Juan Bochenski Exec. Chef Anasazi Restaurant Julio Cabrera Sous Chef Anasazi Restaurant Alesandro Hernandez Sous Chef Anasazi Restaurant Mamadi Kaba Chef Pyramid Cafe Jesus Rivera Manager Pecos Trail Cafe Edward D. Melvin Exec. Chef Santa Fe Capitol Grill Yadira Rodriguez ‡ Manager Adelitas Restaurant Pavia Olivas Owner Adelitas Restaurant Victor Medina Chef San Fran. Bar & Grill Steve Lemon Chef Pranzo Luis Almeida Sous Chef Midtown Bistro †* Angel Estrada Exec. Chef Midtown Bistro Saul Valtierra Padilla Exec. Chef Gabriel’s
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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See for yourself why three of our photos won top awards last year!
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“This balloon fiesta trip was undoubtedly the most surreal kayaking experienced I’ve ever had. All these massive orbs of bright color descending around us and blasting the early morning river silence with their roaring burners was unbelievable!” Rem Smith (57) Albuquerque, NM “I high-fived one of the pilots! It was awesome!” Jane Bales (48) Rio Rancho, NM Make Your Reservations Today! DETAILS AT: www.newmexicokayakinstruction.com/balloon-fiesta EMAIL: kelly@newmexicokayakinstruction.com Groups of 3-5 save $10/person Groups of 6 or more save $20/person PHONE: 505-803-2201
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Celebrating the Taste of Life in New Mexico for over two decades!
Advertising in localflavor is and has been a must for us since we opened over 4 years ago. Their readers are our customers and we love them. – Annette Kratka & Fred Muller Owners, El Meze
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Santa Fe and Taos: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544 lianne@localflavormagazine.com Kate Collins 505.470.6012 kate@localflavormagazine.com Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130 ashley@localflavormagazine.com
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LyLe Lovett & His Large Band
Artists from Around the World! National Hispanic Cultural Center
October 3
JOHNNY BOYD The Cooperage, Fri, 8 pm
October 8
RIBAB FUSION
Saturday Sept 13th
The Dirty Bourbon Wed, 7:30 pm
the downS of Santa fe
October 26
CARAVAN OF tHIeVeS
Amber Gillreath 505.235.9216 amber@localflavormagazine.com
The Cooperage, Sun, 7:30 pm
October 28
The Downs Of Santa Fe, Just off I-25, South of Santa Fe • On the beautiful lawns, bring your chairs, blankets, etc. (Chairs are NOT provided!) • Food & Drink Available
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
JIM MALCOLM
The Cooperage, Tues, 7:30 pm
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Globalquerque!
Sept. '14
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SEPTEMBER 2014
story by GORDON BUNKER
“Not only do we want to present the world to New Mexico,” says Globalquerque co-founder Tom Frouge, “but we want to present New Mexico to the world.” Talking with Tom and his fellow cofounder Neal Copperman, it’s clear these two are doing just what they’ve set out to accomplish.
Now in its 10th year, “New Mexico’s Celebration of World Music and Culture” will again take over the campus of Albuquerque’s National Hispanic Cultural Center September 19 and 20. Imagine immersing yourself in the music, dance, film, art and—lest we forget—food of 11 countries, including Texas. Ever wonder what a pipa or a tambura is? Or what they sound like? This is your chance to find out. “The music presented at Globalquerque is from the very traditional to the very cutting edge,” Tom says, “with the common denominator that no matter how contemporary the band is, it has to have an element of their culture.” The festival kicks off Friday morning with a special program that’s free to school groups, featuring performances from a selection of the bands. “We’ve had as many as 1800 school kids on the plaza,” says Tom. “They’re dancing, doing trains around the place…” This has to be the sweetest of good times, with all that excited kid energy. Friday and Saturday evenings, ticketed music and dance performances take to three stages at the Center simultaneously. (Advance tickets are available at a discounted rate through September 18—see the website for details.) The Global Market will be open if you want to take a break from the music, check out the arts and crafts or have a bite to eat. Throughout the day on Saturday, everything is open and free to the public, with more music, workshops, the Global Market, the whole kit. There’s a lot happening. Often, it’s not what we say but how we say it. With songs sung in languages from around the world, many of us are bound to miss the stories. But the gesture and the spirit of performances always come through clear as a bell. Celebration, joy, heartache—these qualities are innately human and music is the universal language to express them. “We like to call Globalquerque a festival of discovery,” says Neal, “because usually people find the thing they are most excited about when they leave the festival is not what they were most excited about going into the festival.” You can get a sneak peek from the website via short videos of the performers in the lineup. I’ve watched a couple and have been briefly transported to China and Hungary, discovering strikingly new qualities in the music. The music of Liu Fang from China is haunting, full of longing and quite moving. Söndörgő, a five guy tamburitza band from Hungary, gave me a whole new take on folksong themes. I have no idea what they were singing about, but can picture a Saturday night gathering in a small Balkan village, people dancing a step perhaps much like a contra dance and having some fun as we all love to do. All this from two short clips. Having our minds and hearts opened to something new is the best. This is the nugget for Neal. “When we bring a band from Pakistan that’s fronted by two women,” he says, “not only is that confronting the sort of male-centric perspective you might assume would come from Pakistan, but we’re also putting forward culture from a people who are sort of vilified [here] on television.” People visiting Globalquerque are “seeing them in a new and different light,” he says. “They appear more human. It’s like, ‘Wow, they have pretty music! Their music talks to me, and I got to speak to those people and they’re really nice.’ And all of a sudden people’s views of Pakistan or the Pakistani people change.” Hats off to Neal and Tom for bringing this to us. “With music,” says Neal, “you find all these connections.”
| Afro-Cuban All Stars
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Photo: Takahashi Shinishi
Photo: Pascal Perich
| Golem
Photo: Postales
| Söndörgő
Photo: Paul Wright
| Gaby Moreno
Photo: Denis Dailleux
| Kobo Town
| Lo’Jo | Robert “Tree” Cody & Native Wisdom Dance Theatre
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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You start getting the picture as to how this all came about by reading Tom’s bio: “He began his music career one Sunday night in 1964 watching the Ed Sullivan show.” As a kid in Connecticut, he was mesmerized by “the lads from Liverpool” who, unbeknownst to them, opened Tom’s eyes to culture outside his home turf. “I swear, the next day I started fighting with my mother about growing my bangs out,” he says, and we share a laugh. I remember similar arguments with my folks. “It was a cultural shift that really put me on the path,” Tom says. Over the years, he worked for perhaps a dozen record labels before starting his own artist management company, Avokado Artists. Meanwhile, in the Washington D.C. area, Neal was getting into a diverse and lively music scene. He “always loved music, was always wrapped in the latest sounds and quirks and fashions,” he says. “It was the excitement. It’s always been a fascination of mine … I could see just about anyone I could imagine.” His work in math and computer science brought him to Albuquerque. “It was a more quiet scene here,” he says, “but there was an openness to it I couldn’t find on the coasts.” Neal started getting involved. “The Outpost Performance Space, for example. I’d just go up to the people that ran it and say, ‘I love what you’re doing here, can I help?’ And people were responsive. So the openness of the community here was really exciting. I was able to get involved in things I was passionate about that I’d only been able to experience as an observer. I started volunteering.” Neal continues, “I had engaged in something that changed the community I lived in. I was thrilled. I was like, ‘Wow, I’m actually making a difference in the town I live in,’ and that was a really beautiful thing.” When faced with a turning point in his work life, he decided to not return to the East Coast and said farewell to working in the sciences. He stayed in Albuquerque and created his own business, AMP Concerts. Right on Neal! In 2005, Tom went to the music festival globalFEST in New York City and the concept of bringing shows together from around the world really clicked with him. Tom recalls a decisive moment. “A friend turns to me and asks, ‘What do you think about doing a globalFEST West?’ And I said, ‘That is brilliant! What do you think if I do this in New Mexico instead of L.A.?’ And she says, ‘I think that’s brilliant!’” Tom and Neal’s paths had already intersected a few times, so they got together on the idea. “I’ve always been a huge fan of world music,” says Neal, “so Tom and I had a base right there. International music is always a little bit of a fringe.” They gathered the support of then Mayor Marty Chavez, and soon after the Center signed on as the venue. “This was January 2005 and the first Globalquerque was in September of that year,” says Tom. “The acts we bring in are all world-class touring bands. We have had a number of award-winners, including many Grammy winners, grace our stages over the years.” They market the festival nationally and internationally, putting Albuquerque on the world-wide, music scene map. “We also are fortunate,” says Tom, “to be at a world-class facility like the National Hispanic Cultural Center, whose people from the top down are the best,” and there couldn’t be a more perfect setting. With this festival, as Tom points out, it’s more than the music. “From the ambiance, to the sound, to the “extras” like the Global Village of Craft, Culture & Cuisine,” they put their hearts into it. Tom adds, enthusiastically, “Festival goers can be confident they will have a top-quality musical and cultural experience. It’s the whole experience …” Viva ¡Globalquerque!
SEPTEMBER 2014
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photo by Sergio Salvador
Bringing together local food, farmers and the community! See our website for a full list of events and special dinners
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Albuquerque, NM 87114
For more information, visit globalquerque.org. 46
A unique Blend of Flavor & History is Closer Than you Think!
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505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A New Class of Chefs
Blazing a new trail, as Santa Fe Culinary Academy co-founders Rocky Durham and Tanya Story have done with the Academy’s Professional Culinary Program, demands an enormous leap of faith. Careful planning has gone into this venture, but ultimately its future is unknown.
After wending my way through the Academy’s labyrinth of kitchens to the back portal, I meet with Rocky, a born-and-raised Santa Fean, and four of the program’s five inaugural students— Matthew Harman, Susan Hart, Amy Leilani and Brian Tomlinson (the fifth is Peter Hyde)—at a table with a rich patina from years of outdoor use. From where I sit, I face sweeping views of city rooftops and, in the distance, the Sangre de Cristos. The gathered student body harks from many parts of the country, including Santa Fe, and ranges in age from the 20s to the 50s. These students are risktakers themselves, pioneers in a sense, having made their own leaps of faith by signing up. Right there, they have my admiration. With Rocky and with each other, they have an easy, friendly and mutually respectful rapport. It’s a pleasure to see. Rocky sits across the table from me, looking happy as can be. He and Tanya have reason to be pleased. Later this month, this group will graduate. Pop the bubbly! This is a momentous occasion both for the Academy and for Santa Fe. Think of all the many colleges and trade schools that have been in existence for years, some as long as our country itself—each one of them had its first class. Today we measure them by their academic excellence and longevity, but there was a time when they too were brand new. What’s unique about this program, besides its newness and smallness, is the very personal involvement of Rocky and Tanya. Rocky is clearly passionate about the down to earth set of values he brings to the table. “What I hope for,” he says, “is getting some folks in here that will commit their time, and what I tell them individually when they’re putting in an application is, ‘I promise you, if you come in here every day with your head screwed on straight ready to do the work, … be here without exception, I will teach you absolutely everything I can.” There’s an intensity to Rocky as he makes this statement. It’s a tall commitment. He continues, “This is something the chef I apprenticed with told me. I worked for him for four and a half years.” His face lights up and he laughs “I’d like to say I teach everything I know, but I also like to think I know more than I can teach in a year … but that might not be the case!” The Professional Culinary Program is a rigorous one. Rocky fills me in. “First there’s Boot Camp,” he says. “It’s getting everybody up to speed really quickly so we can get them into the kitchen and start cooking.” Students also get their safe server and New Mexico alcohol servers certificates. After this, the year is broken into four rotations.
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story by GORDON BUNKER photos by STEPHEN LANG
In the first rotation, Rocky and Tanya give the students “a lot of nuts and bolts,” he says. “Stocks and sauces, basic starch preparation and product ID. We get into being familiar with what things look like, feel like and smell like. What they should look like vs. what they might look like. And how to use them.” Rocky is brimming with enthusiasm—he is completely into this. In the second and third rotations, the Academy opens a student restaurant. “Second rotation we open it for lunch and students participate in all aspects [of operation].” He adds emphatically, “We make everything in-house and always from fresh local ingredients whenever possible. We always look for the highest quality product.” I hope whoever studies at the Academy knows how lucky they are to experience Rocky’s energy—it’s infectious. A chef program is one thing; learning from people who generously share the things they most care about is another. This is the nugget, the basis for the greatest lessons learned. “I’m very passionate about ethically raised animals,” Rocky continues. “I eat animals but I don’t think that means they have to have a life-long hell as an existence before they get to my table. I teach the students that their spending practices have consequences outside their finances. When you open your wallet or your checkbook you’re casting a ballot, and understand there’s more [to it] than just buying food when you buy food.” This is something for everyone to think about and act upon. There’s certainly no perfect answer to the question of how we’re going to feed everyone, but if we can at least make informed choices, that’s a big first step to improving the short- and long-term effects of how food is produced. Second rotation is also when the students start their externships at local restaurants and food service operations. They’re in the field, working side by side with chefs. They work in every capacity, from cooking to menu planning, cost analysis to serving. In the third rotation, students move to the more advanced courses, which coincide with dinner service. “By and large, dinners might be a little more intricate than lunches,” says Rocky, “so the styles of service reflect that. Third rotation students are here in the evenings and we open the restaurant for dinner.” The fourth rotation is marked by the students’ final restaurant project. “This is like, ‘Show me what you have learned this year,’” says Rocky, “in the form of designing your own theoretical food service operation.” Students then do a presentation covering every aspect of their projects, including costing exercises. “They have to know exactly what every plate’s going to cost them, and understand that on the lower right hand corner of their P&L [profit and loss statement], that’s got to be a positive number.” There’s a lot more to being a chef than knowing how to cook. A selection committee then choses one of the projects to be installed in the student restaurant, which is open to the public, for the last three weeks of the cooking portion of the year.
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WANTED FOODIES
Join us at Galisteo Bistro and see for yourself why foodies are raving! Dinner: Tuesday–Sunday, 5–9:30pm Zenato Wine Dinner September 24 ~ 6:30pm Chimney Rock Sanford Wine Dinner September 25 ~ 6:30pm Reservations Highly Recommended:
505-982-3700 • OpenTable.com • GalisteoBistro.com
227 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, NM
REWARD
Rocky’s mission is succinct. “Building community through food education—that’s what I want to do,” he says. And he backs this up with some very rock solid thinking. “What you and I are doing right here, … sitting at a table, this is where the root of culture begins. What separates us from any other animal that eats is we gather and we ritualize something that fuels the machine.You hear statistics that 99 percent of the National Merit Scholars sat down for dinner with their families on a regular basis.” Huh. When I was growing up, our family always sat down for dinner together. My sister was definitely scholar material but not me. Being a trouble maker was of far more interest than anything the teacher was pontificating upon (this hasn’t changed). Be that as it may, my family talked and laughed and argued around that table. We bonded with and learned from one another and most importantly, we loved one another. The importance Rocky places on cooking and eating together resonates deeply with me. “When we come together in a kitchen and take raw materials and turn it into food,” Rocky says, “and then sit down at the table together, we commune together. With these things that we participate in, we’re no longer strangers, we’re comrades. At that point, we have all this in common and we know each other’s names and we’re like, ‘Oh you did a great job on this bread,’ and we’re laughing and sharing stories and we are now a community.” We sit and reflect for a moment on what he’s just said. Then Rocky adds, “That is the essence of what I do here. Some of these students will take this with them. Let’s say I inadvertently infect somebody with this idea of community and building things by creating a table where people can gather … that’s time well spent.” How the professional program will impact the culinary scene in Santa Fe is yet to be seen. But it has put the City Different on the map for people seeking a career in the culinary arts and this is bound to bring in new ideas, new talent and new opportunities for our own culinary community. The Santa Fe Culinary Academy is located at 112 West San Francisco Street in Santa Fe. 505.983.7445. santafeculinaryacademy.com.
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Wendy McEahern
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In
CHILEWe Trust story by CAITLIN RICHARDS
I
admit that upon moving to New Mexico it took me longer than some to fully embrace the state vegetable. In fact, at the risk of losing my New Mexico residency card, I’ll go so far as to say that I still prefer my pizza and hamburgers to be chile free. Days can go by without a chile appearing on my menu, and my comfort food is more along the lines of risotto or mashed potatoes, sans chile, than it is mac and cheese with chile or a heaping plate of chile cheese fries. Chile has gradually crept it into my diet, however, and I certainly don’t stare at the waitress with a blank look on my face and stutter when asked, “Red or green?” Chile rellenos and carne adovada, two dishes unheard of in the East, have become favorites. But I guess I’m kind of vanilla in my chile tastes—I like it on New Mexican food but not crossing over into other cuisines and, beyond the occasional breakfast burrito (usually eaten when there’s a tray of them at an early work meeting), it certainly doesn’t carry over into breakfast. Yes, I said breakfast. This might be the truest test of whether one is a born and bred New Mexican or a transplant: listen in on a breakfast order. My first few breakfasts out with New Mexican-born friends were eye opening and a little alarming: “I’d like a breakfast burrito with green chile, smothered in cheese and chile, a side of bacon and side of green chile.” “Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs and a side of green chile.” “Steak and eggs with a side of green chile.” Stranger still: “French toast with a side of green chile.” French toast with a side of green chile? Who were these people? What strange universe had I wandered into? My order: scrambled eggs, bacon, wheat toast. “Would you like a side of chile with that?” No! My friends would look at me and shake their heads as if to say, “Poor thing,” and “You’ll learn.”
I was convinced that I would never, no matter how long I lived in Santa Fe, learn to eat chile for breakfast. I’ve never even used Tabasco sauce on my eggs. Breakfast should be unassuming, comforting, a gentle entré into the day. Breakfast is dependable and quiet. Not for a New Mexican, it isn’t! For a New Mexican, breakfast is a fiesta and apparently there is no traditional breakfast food that can’t be enhanced by a little green chile. Okay, you say, I’ll bite. What should I try? If you’re looking for something on the more traditional New Mexican side, you could try a breakfast enchilada. Joe’s makes a delicious breakfast enchilada—corn tortillas layered with scrambled eggs and cheese and topped
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NEW 2014 CORN MAZE Visit us Sept 20 - Oct 31 and experience down to earth fun!
with chile and a fried egg. (Personally, I would go red on this dish.) Zia Diner offers up a breakfast quesadilla: scrambled eggs, cheese and chile grilled between two flour tortillas. Cafe Pasqual’s has the exotic huevos motuleños, which consists of two eggs topped with sautéed banana, cheese and peas all piled on a corn tortilla and topped with red or green chile. Tell me, could you walk into a restaurant in Chicago or New York and order such a thing? I think not. Chilaquiles—fried corn tortillas cooked in chile or salsa, topped with eggs, chile and cheese—are another local favorite. There’s a theme developing here: eggs, cheese and chile seem to go together as well as bacon and eggs. Perhaps you’re willing to try a little chile with breakfast, but you want something more familiar. Omelets are traditional—one knows what to expect from an omelet—yet walk into almost any breakfast place in town and you’ll find at least one omelet with green chile. A breakfast sandwich in Santa Fe would be downright naked without a strip of green chile. Eggs Benedict, one of my breakfast favorites and a dish that is nearly perfect as is, gets a New Mexican makeover with the addition of green chile. I shrieked in horror the first time I saw this on a menu. Not my Eggs Benedict! Come on, New Mexico, what have Eggs Benedict ever done to you! Who would consider adding green chile to hollandaise sauce? It’s ridiculous. It’s a travesty. It’s…delicious. It’s on the menu at New York Deli. New York Deli—that brings me to perhaps the greatest betrayal breakfast food has ever known. There are few things as sacred to a New Yorker as a bagel. Plain bagel, onion bagel, poppy seed bagel, sesame bagel. Everything bagel. Green chile bagel. You must mean green chile cream cheese. Well, there is that, but I actually mean green chile bagel. New York Deli has gone ahead and put the green chile into the bagel. I’m not sure I can accept this. I think the green chile may have overstepped its bounds. Other regions have foods for which they’re known. Philly Cheese Steak, Chicago pizza, Maryland crab, Maine lobster. I was chatting recently about chile for breakfast with two people, one a born and bred New Mexican, the other a recent arrival. “What is it about chile?” the newcomer demanded. “Why do you put it on everything?” The born and bred New Mexican gave us a sad look and shook her head.“Honestly,” the newcomer continued, “I’m from Chicago, but we don’t put pizza on cereal!” Cereal! The one breakfast food that remains on its own, the one final hold out among breakfast foods against the great chile onslaught. But is it? I sent out an email asking friends if they eat chile for breakfast and if so, how. One reply was green chile and oatmeal. So the cereal barrier has been breached. As for the rest of my friends, most responded that they put chile on eggs or in omelets. How dull, was my initial thought. Then I had to laugh at myself. Perhaps a bit of New Mexico is rubbing off on me after all. Next time I go out for breakfast, I’m ordering scrambled eggs, bacon, wheat toast and a side of green chile.
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Proud sponsor of the 24th Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta Congratulations to
er! t t be e il ttl l feel a ’l ine .You W ..
on their 25th Anniversary Get 10% off ALL wines with any Wine & Chile Fiesta wristband 750ml & larger Offer good until October 3, 2014
St Francis at Cerrillos ~ in the Crossroads Center, Santa Fe Monday – Saturday 10 am-8 pm ~ (505) 984-1582
A new senior lifestyle is coming to Rio Rancho with apartment styles and amenities not offered in other area communities. The Neighborhood is scheduled to open in 2015, giving you time to consider how beautiful your future can be. But you must act now. A new information center is now open at 4500 Arrowhead Ridge Drive SE in Rio Rancho (one block west of the intersection of Highway 528 on Ridgecrest Drive SE). Reservations are now being taken for when the apartments become available for occupancy.
To arrange for your visit, please call Ashley Trujillo at (505) 994-2266.
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Thank You! Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta
stor y by LILY CARBONE
T
here is simply no rest for Santa Feans in the summer and early fall. We barely pack up the tents from Indian Market (an astonishing tour de force that draws thousands of artists and collectors from all over the world to celebrate the creativity of Native culture)–– and here we are setting up the party tents for yet another reknowned event––the Santa Fe Wine and
and all in the Santa Fe culinary community who help Cooking with Kids teach thousands of children about the joys of delicious, healthy food! Northern New Mexico Farmers Whole Foods Market La Montanita Coop SFPS Student Nutrition Department Just the Best Produce Company Local Flavor Santa Fe’s Restaurants and the CWK Super Chefs!
Chile Fiesta. This month, foodies and oenophiles will come from far and wide to experience the creativity and spirited camaraderie of our culinary community and their passion for the finest of wines. Enjoy your week at Wine and Chile––it is a true taste of our local flavor and our local hospitality. As a final offering this month, our “Still Hungry?” writer asked four legendary chefs for a signature recipe that a skilled home chef might enjoy tackling. Our thanks to Mark Kiffin of The Compound, Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s of Santa Fe, Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín and Charles Dale of Bouche. ---editor’s note
Photo: Kate Russell
Photo: Kitty Leaken
| Martín Rios
| Mark Kiffin
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
Photo: Joy Godfrey
Cooking with Kids, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization. PO Box 6113, Santa Fe, NM 87502 • (505) 438-0098
| Charles Dale
Photo: Kitty Leaken
Ad courtesy of localflavor • Photo by Jackie Munro
Visit us at cookingwithkids.org
| Joseph Wrede
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Chef Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín Butternut Squash Soup with Maple and Red Chile Whipped Mascarpone Garnish
Chef Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s Cast-Iron Bronzed Cauliflower with Mustard Seed and Crème Fraiche Crusted White Bean Anchovy Tomato Sauce, Fried Capers and Green Dust Green Olive Dust
To make the Green Olive Dust, place 4 oz. pitted green olives, drained, rinsed and dried in a medium-mixing bowl. Pour liquid nitrogen over olives to cover. Drape a kitchen rag over bowl and allow the liquid nitrogen to boil, frost will simmer down in a few seconds. Place frozen olives in Robot Coupe and pulse until olives crack into desired sized pieces and dust. Store in freezer.
Crème Fraiche
4 cups cream 4 Tablespoons buttermilk Combine cream and buttermilk, stir. Place on shelf; let it sit out for 24 hours, stir. It should be thick and resemble sour cream. If not, let it sit out for another day, stir. Refrigerated mixture should last a week.
Mustard & Crème Fraiche Sauce 1 Tablespoon whole-grain mustard 2 Tablespoons crème fraiche
Combine ingredients, stir. Refrigerate until needed.
White Beans
6 ounces dried white beans Few sprigs fresh thyme and parsley Bay Leaf Spread beans on half sheet tray and remove any pebbles or small dirt clumps. Wash beans under cool water using a mesh strainer. Place beans in pot of water to cover and bring to a boil. Add thyme, parsley and bay leaf to pot and simmer until beans are cooked. Drain beans and discard herbs. Approximately 2 1/2 hours.
Anchovy Tomato Sauce
10 ounce can whole peeled tomatoes 10 ounce water 2.5 onions, peeled and diced 1 Tablespoon dried oregano 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/8 cup of Parmesan Reggiano cheese, grated 2 Tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 2 teaspoons good quality salt 56
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Yield 4 servings
Heat medium sauce pan over medium flame. Add onions, stir and sweat for a few minutes. Add garlic, stir. Add oregano and red pepper flakes, stir and sauté until garlic brightens. Add water, cook for 1.5 hours. Add cheese, olive oil and parsley, cook another 30 minutes. Add salt, cool and blend until smooth.
White Bean Anchovy Tomato Sauce
In a large pan, sauté over high flame, and add tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and pad of unsalted butter. Dissolve cleaned and cold waterwashed anchovy fillet in melted butter. Reduce the flame to medium, stir pan with wooden spoon until anchovy breaks down to paste. Add white beans and tomato sauce. Add salt to taste. Keep warm.
Cauliflower
1 head cauliflower 1 Tablespoon clarified butter Cut cauliflower in half and remove core with knife. Cut cauliflower into steak-like slices about 1 1/2 inches thick or break into florets. Trim to allow one side of cauliflower to have a flat surface to allow crust. Heat oven to 500°. Place a medium size caste iron skillet over high flame; add tablespoon of clarified butter and coat bottom of pan. Place cauliflower in skillet, flattest surface down. Sear for 2 minutes, flip and sear for another 2 minutes. Coat surface with mustard crust, place in hot oven for 2 minutes. Spoon 1 ounce of white bean anchovy tomato sauce in center of plate. Place cauliflower on top of beans. Garnish optionally with fried capers, fried kale chips, dehydrated vegetable, parsley oil and liquid nitrogen cracked olives. This year, Joseph’s of Santa Fe is featuring wines from Heitz Wine Cellars. Chef Wrede recommends pairing the Cast-Iron Bronzed Cauliflower with the Heitz 2013 Sauvignon Blanc.
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Butternut Squash Soup 1 pound butternut squash 1 green apple 1/2 yellow onion 1/2 red bell pepper 1/2 ounce peeled ginger 2 cinnamon sticks 1/2 cup orange juice 2 Tablespoons brown sugar 3 cups vegetable stock 1 cup heavy cream Sauté the first six ingredients until lightly caramelized. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer to even consistency, about 10-15 minutes. Remove the cinnamon sticks and puree until smooth.
Maple and Red Chile Whipped Mascarpone 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese 1/2 cup whipped cream 2 Tablespoons maple syrup Pinch red chile powder Salt and pepper (as needed) In a bowl, whisk all of the ingredients together until thick. This soup can be garnished with candied pumpkin seeds. This year, Restaurant Martín is featuring wines from Archery Summit and Pine Ridge Vineyards. Chef Martín suggests pairing the soup and mascarpone with the Pine Ridge Dijon Clone Chardonnay. “This beautiful wine, which is minimally oaked and is higher in acidity, is strong enough to stand up to the richness of the Butternut Squash Bisque.”
Chef Mark Kiffin of The Compound Restaurant Seared Diver Scallops, Orecchiette Pasta tossed with Fava Bens, Peas, Green onions and Fresh Ricotta, served with Caramelized Limes and Vermouth Butter
Yield 4 appetizer servings 8-10 diver or dry pack sea scallops, weighing approximately 1 pound 1/4 pound orecchiette pasta, cooked in boiling salted water until al dente and drained 1/2 pound fresh fava beans, blanched and skins removed 1/2 pound fresh English peas, peas removed from pod and blanched 1 small bunch green onions, sliced thin 1/4 pound fresh whole milk ricotta cheese (the New York creamy style is best) 4 small Key or Mexican limes Pinch white sugar Olive oil for cooking Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe vermouth butter sauce Preheat the oven to 400°. Cut the limes in half, season with a pinch of sugar, salt and freshly ground pepper, and toss with a very small amount of oil to coat. Roast cut side up in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the limes brown. Heat a black steel, cast iron or non-stick pan to very hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and toss in a small amount of oil to coat. At the same time, bring a small pot of water to a boil, large enough to place a basket or china cap to reheat your pasta in. Heat the pasta for 1 minute, add the fava beans and peas into the same water to heat, drain and remove to a glass or stainless bowl. Fold in the scallions and lightly toss with “pieces” of the cheese— do not over mix to make creamy—season with salt and pepper. While the pasta is heating, sear the scallops at high heat turning only once, approximately 30-45 seconds on each side. Place the pasta mixture down on plates, top with two scallops per plate, spoon the sauce around and garnish with the limes. Chef Kiffin recommends pairing this appetizer with the Jordan Chardonnay from the Jordan Vineyard & Winery, which The Compound Restaurant is featuring this year for the Wine & Chile Fiesta. “It’s not too oaky,” he says, “so the acid works with the richness of the pasta and the pea.”
Vermouth Butter Sauce
Yield 1 cup 1/2 cup Noilly Prat or another dry white vermouth 1 Tablespoon champagne vinegar 4 whole black peppercorns 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 pound unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and kept cold In a heavy-bottom small saucepan, place the vermouth, vinegar, peppercorns and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and reduce to approximately 2 tablespoons. Stir in the butter a few pieces at a time, until fully incorporated and smooth. Strain and keep warm but not hot. To further compliment the flavor of the wine, Chef Kiffin recommends substituting the Jordan Chardonnay for the Vermouth.
Chef Charles Dale of Bouche Tuna Carpaccio, Niçoise-style Yield 4 appetizer or light lunch course servings
Tuna Carpaccio
1 lb fresh tuna (sushi grade preferable) cut into 5 equal pieces, about ½-inch thick
Tonnato Sauce
1 piece of tuna from above ½ cup water ¼ teaspoon salt 3 cloves garlic Juice of one lemon ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salad
4 medium-sized new potatoes, peeled and diced into ¼-inch cubes 1/4 lb French green beans (haricots verts), sliced crosswise 1-inch thick 12 large cherry tomatoes, sliced in half 1/4 lb arugula, well-washed 4 hardboiled eggs, cut in 4 wedges each
Dressing
1/4 cup Dijon mustard 2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 anchovy filets 1/4 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup olive oil
Garnish
1/4 cup pitted Niçoise olives 1 Tablespoon chopped parsley To make the tonnato sauce, place the tuna, ½ cup of water, and salt and garlic in a small saucepot. Cook over low heat until the tuna is flaky, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Place in a blender with the lemon juice, and slowly drizzle in the ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil. Refrigerate until ready to use. Meanwhile, use a wooden or steel mallet to gently flatten each of the four remaining pieces of tuna between two sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper, until they are about 1/8-inch thick. Store the tuna refrigerated between the plastic sheets until ready to serve. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, and cook the diced potato for 15 minutes. Add the sliced beans, and cook for 3 more minutes. Strain and shock in ice water. Strain again and set aside. Place all the ingredients for the dressing in the blender, and blend on high speed for one minute. To serve: Remove each piece of tuna by peeling off one layer of plastic, and place on four individual plates. Lightly salt the tuna and drizzle with the Tonnato Sauce. Toss all the remaining ingredients except for the egg in a large bowl with half the dressing. Arrange over the tuna and place the wedges of hardboiled egg around. Serve with some of the remaining dressing on the side. This year, Bouche is featuring wines from Frog’s Leap. Chef Charles Dale recommends pairing the Tuna Carpaccio with the Frog’s Leap Merlot. “I chose it to go with the Frog’s Leap Merlot because I feel the depth of the wine blends nicely with the black olives in the salad,” he says.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
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El Rito Studio Tour & Village Arts Festival
October 4th & 5th 10am – 5pm
Between Abiquiu and Ojo Caliente on Highway 554
L AU R A SHEP P HER D ATELIER
Exquisite Hand-Selected Items from Central Asia Handbags Scarves Shawls Tunics
Plus a beautiful collection of silk jackets made in New Mexico by Laura Sheppherd!
www.elritostudiotour.org (575) 581-0155 65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com • The El Rito Studio Tour is funded in part by the County of Rio Arriba Lodger’s Tax and is fiscally sponsored by Luciente, Inc., a 501c3.
THE ART OF OUTDOOR DINING Patio open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live entertainment Wednesday through Saturday evenings.
For reservations, please call 505-986-0000
Merryvale Vineyards Wine Dinner - Wednesday, September 24th Extraordinary seven course dinner paired with wines from one of the Napa Valley's most prestigious vineyards. $120 per person - Reservations Required
330 East Palace Avenue laposadadesantafe.com
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SEPTEMBER 2014
magazine.com
photosantagto.com
Under the Rainbow Under the Rainbow A Perfect Table A Perfect Table The Compound The Compound A Santa Fe Tradition A ~Santa Fe Tradition Reinvented! ~ Reinvented!
Lunch • Dinner • Bar Lunch • Dinner • Bar
Reservations 505.982.4353 Reservations 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com compoundrestaurant.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico
SEPTEMBER 2014
photo: Kitty Leaken photo: Kitty Leaken
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Host Your Next Wine ChileDinner DinnerInInThis ThisPrestigious Prestigious Host Your Next Wine & &Chile Host Your Next Wine & Chile Dinner In This Prestigious
LasCampanas CampanasCountry CountryClub ClubEstate Estate Las Las Campanas Country Club Estate Hacienda CaballeroSanta Santa New Mexico 10 10 Hacienda Caballero Fe,Fe, New Mexico 10 Hacienda Caballero Santa Fe, New Mexico
$2,795,000 $2,795,000 $2,795,000
MLS id# 201401155 MLS id# 201401155 MLS id# 201401155
View This Property At A Wine & Chile Open House View This Property At A Wine & Chile Open House Sunday September 28th / 1:00pm-3:00pm View This Property At A Wine & Chile Open House
Sunday September 28th / 1:00pm-3:00pm Sunday Septemberor28th / 1:00pm-3:00pm by appointment or by appointment or by appointment
4 bedroom • 5.5 bath • 6,616 sq ft • 2.85 acres • 7 fireplaces • Situated on the Jack Nicklaus’ designed golf course 4 bedroom • 5.5 bath • 6,616 sq ft • 2.85 acres • 7 fireplaces • Situated on the Jack Nicklaus’ designed golf course 4 bedroom • 5.5 bath • 6,616 sq ft • 2.85 acres • 7 fireplaces • Situated on the Jack Nicklaus’ designed golf course
10HaciendaCaballero.com 10HaciendaCaballero.com 10HaciendaCaballero.com
Christopher J. Harris cdr usn ret Christopher J. Harris Mobile: 603-2212 cdr usn ret Christopher J.(505) Harris
CHarris@SantaFeRealEstate.com cdr usn ret603-2212 Mobile: (505) CHarris@SantaFeRealEstate.com Mobile: (505) 603-2212 Barker Realty, llc. 530 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 • (505) 982-9836 • SantaFeRealEstate.com CHarris@SantaFeRealEstate.com Barker Realty, llc. 530 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 • (505) 982-9836 • SantaFeRealEstate.com Barker Realty, llc. 530 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 • (505) 982-9836 • SantaFeRealEstate.com