Local Flavor December 2012-January 2013

DECEMBER 2012 - JANUARY 2013

Splashy Cocktails Chef’s Local Favorites Winter Camping Exhilarating Ski Runs

of 2012 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos

Unwind after a day on the town.

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December 2012 - January 2013

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Inside:

Buzz

by Kelly Koepke | 8 What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!

Golden Crown Panaderia

by Emily Beenen | 12 Feliz Navidad from one of Albuquerque’s most beloved landmarks. Enjoy a taste of the holidays and a taste of local flavor.

Top Ten Dishes of 2012

by Chef Johnny Vee | 18 Our annual tribute to the chefs of Santa Fe, Chef Johnny Vee takes a delicious look back on 2011 and names his ten favorite dishes. Your assignment: Try all ten and tell us if you agree!

Ski Runs!

by Barry Fields | 29 The world is in winter white, and the exhilaration of high desert skiing awaits!

Taos Hum

by Tania Casselle | 34 Meet two intriguing Taoseños: Jeff Mugleston, the man behind Taos Ski Valley’s Torchlight Parade, and Clark the service dog, a pooch who brings love and cheer to Holy Cross Hospital.

Albuquerque Power Chefs Call Their Faves

by Erin Brooks | 38 Chef ’s night out. Where do they like to go and what do they order? We asked five of Albuquerque’s most illustrious chefs to call their faves!

Holiday Spirit

by James Selby | 42 Stopping in at your favorite local wine and spirits shop may just be the perfect way to tie up your holiday shopping.

Christmas in Madrid

by Gail Snyder | 47 The story of Christmas past in Madrid is a compelling one–– and as wonderful and wacky a celebration as they have today.

Winter Camping

by Gordon Bunker | 52 Brrrrr…..who would even entertain the thought of camping in the mountains in the winter? Gordon Bunker would.

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Trimbach Estate

by Erin Brooks | 57 Local Flavor’s own Erin Brooks has the privilege of interviewing one of the most esteemed wine makers in all of Europe, Jean Trimbach of Trimbach Estate.

New World Cuisine

by Eve Tolpa | 62 Join us for a preview of the International Museum of Folk Art’s exciting new exhibit, New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más.

Still Thirsty?

ON OUR COVER:

Ristra with snow. The photography of Charles Mann

by Melyssa Holik | 68 Ring in 2013 with a splashy new cocktail. Happy New Year!

Dec.2012 - Jan.2013 ~ Publishers Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant Melyssa Holik Art Director Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Charles Mann Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Albuquerque: Leslie Davis 505.933.1345. Chris Romero 505.670.1331.

Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation LocalFlavor 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com Website: www.localflavormagazine.com localflavor welcomes new writers. Send writing samples to localflavor@earthlink.net localflavor is published 11 times a year: Feb, March, April, May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan. Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

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December 2012 - January 2013

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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Christmas Buffet Tuesday, December 25, 2012 • 11am - 3pm

Appetizer

Letter

It’s the last issue of 2012 and time for a bit of reflection.

In life, change is truly the only thing that you can depend on.

Although this observation may sound pretty obvious, it still never ceases to amaze me—and in the daily life of creating this magazine, change is the most exciting part of the process. 2012 has been a year of great change at Local Flavor. People who have been at the heart of the magazine

Mixed Greens Salad with Assorted Dressings Grilled Shrimp Salad Fresh Seasonal Fruit and Berries Bowl Assorted Domestic and Imported Cheese Platter Vegetable Crudité with Hummus and Ranch Dip Sweet & Spicy Deviled Eggs Caesar Salad with Queso Cotija Dressing Freshly Baked Breads and Butter

Entrée Roasted Prime Rib with Au Jus Roasted Leg of Lamb with Honey-Dijon Demi Glace Roasted Turkey with Giblet Gravy and Orange-Cranberry Relish Char-Grilled Salmon with Pomegranate Butter Sauce Roasted Chestnut Dressing Creamy Polenta Roasted Garlic-Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes Sautéed Green Beans Almondine Baked Spaghetti Squash

Dessert

Bourbon Pecan Pie, Bread Pudding, Chocolate Blackout Cake, Assorted Cupcakes, Bars, Mousse and Cookies

Photo: Gabriella Marks

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have moved on to new challenges in their lives, and those who have taken their place bring new energy and a new perspective on who we are and what we can become.

We’ve tackled new editorial content and taken the first steps to embracing a new design aesthetic.

And now we are poised to launch our new website.

Of course we have had a website for years now (I honestly thought of it as a necessary evil), but this is different. The Local Flavor Magazine.com that launches this month is not a breathless, get-on-the-bandwagon marketing tool with all the latest bells and whistles, nor is it the first step in saying farewell to print. Rather, it is a wondrous opportunity to reach out to our readers in ways that I never dreamed possible.

I stumbled into this gargantuan project a skeptic, but in the process of editing a story one afternoon, I came upon this quote: “Our species will survive neither by totally rejecting nor unconditionally embracing technology--but by humanizing it.” That was my “aha” moment, and it has been our guiding force throughout the creation of the website. The magazine is luscious to look at online, and the ability to share stories with someone halfway around the world is at your fingertips. Recipes are organized and accessible (unlike my collection at home), and back issues are not just in my backyard shed; they’re right there for you to read and enjoy and, yes, share. There are bonus stories, too, that you’ll only find online, as well as a backstage glimpse of how we pull it all together each month.

Over the years we have always kept in touch with the people we’re written about (after hours of interviewing and photo shoots and having their stories read by thousands, they’re officially a part of the Flavor). Now we have the opportunity for you to keep in touch with them, as well, to see what they’re up to. (And, of course, it will also be easier for you to let us know what you’re up to.) It has been great fun to stretch the scope and vision of the magazine, and we hope that you’ll enjoy the results as much as we do.

And in our spare time … we’ve created a most wondrous holiday issue for you.

Chef Johnny Vee is back with his annual Top Ten Dishes of 2012 (bet you haven’t tried them all); five of Albuquerque’s top chefs let us in on where they eat when they go out; James Selby takes you shopping for premium (really premium) spirits; and we make a nostalgic stop at one of the most wonderful bakeries I have ever been in: the Albuquerque landmark, Golden Crown Panaderia. That’s a taste of what’s in store in the food and wine department.

For those of you who like to venture away from the comforts of a warm kitchen during the winter, we have a rundown of some of the most exhilarating ski runs in Taos and Santa Fe. Whether you’re new to high desert skiing or a pro, you’ll love this story––and I’m sure you’ll let us know what your favorites are. Also on the adventure side is a great piece on winter camping. I had a tough time finding a writer who actually wanted to brave the elements and write the story firsthand. I couldn’t believe it when Gordon Bunker called me back and said, “Looks like snow in the mountains this weekend, I’ll do it.” (Gordon, I would have settled for a few interviews of other crazies; I didn’t think you’d actually camp out in 19-degree weather for this story! ) The entire Local Flavor family would like to thank our advertisers for being such a crucial part of the magazine and our readers for being so wonderfully supportive in this past year. We wish you a joyous holiday season and a prosperous New Year.

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December 2012 - January 2013

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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ALBUQUERQUE

Photo: City of Albuquerque

Kick off December with a parade! December 1 is the Twinkle Light Parade, making its way west on blocked-off Central Ave. from Girard to Washington, right through the Nob Hill Holiday Shop and Stroll. Who decided to move the 100 twinkling floats, vehicles, animals and people to the funky heart of Albuquerque, where local businesses and restaurants thrive? It’s genius! Festivities run from noon to midnight, with the light parade starting at 5:15 p.m. The event includes shopping and food specials, family entertainment and photos with Santa.

| Twinkle Light Parade Don’t forget the pooch during the Shop and Stroll, either. Stuff your dog’s stocking and delight your pet-loving friends with gourmet dogs treats from Dawg Gone Good, Nob Hill’s pet boutique. Find delightful and distinctive cookies, cupcakes and treats, like the Albuquerque-exclusive Bosco and Roxy’s Gourmet Dog Treats––hand-cut, baked and decorated with artistic flair—and locally based Tailwaggin’ Temptations from Chef Charlie Wendt. Wendt’s Little Yummies and Big Yummies treat boxes come in cute paw print cartons with canine custom flavors. Visit www.dawggonegoodnm.com.

It may not feel like winter yet (Twinkle Light Parade and Nob Hill Shop and Stroll notwithstanding), but the Winter Downtown Growers’ Market and Pop-Up Holiday Market on Gold Street between 1st and 2nd will put you in the mood. Come down on your lunch break Friday, December 7, from 11 to 2, and again on Saturday, December 8, from 10 to 2, to pick up fresh seasonal produce and locally made clothing, jewelry, crafts and coffee.

And while you’re Downtown, stop by Great Face & Body (Broadway and Gold) for Bathing Bad body scrub and bath salts. In case you miss the reference, skin care advisor to the stars Keith West-Harrison (the cook) and partner Andre West-Harrison 8

December 2012 - January 2013

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

(distribution) perfected the recipe for blue crystal salts and scrubs to pay homage to the successful AMC series filmed in the Duke City about a chemistry teacher and former student who produce blue meth— and to draw attention to their eco-urban lifestyle market featuring natural, organic and sustainable luxury beauty products manufactured right here in Albuquerque.

Great Face’s batches of blue include organic lavender, orange, geranium, cedar wood, rose and frankincense (plus red cabbage for the vivid color). To which we say, “Yeah, science!”

Need a gift with fewer criminal connotations? Give the gift of live theater with a membership in Theatre Lovers Community. For under $20, treat a friend, family member or yourself to a six-month membership in TLC (January 1 to June 30). And, in the spirit of holiday giving, buy two gift memberships and TLC slashes the price to just $27! TLC, an arm of the Albuquerque Theatre Guild, provides yearround enhanced theatrical experiences for members, including discounts to theaters, exclusive rehearsals, special programs and backstage looks at spectacles like The Lion King, talkbacks, and more. Go to www. abqtheatre.org/tlc.

Albuquerque is full of amazing art in the most unexpected places. The Gallery with a Cause, at the New Mexico Cancer Center on December 16 from 1 to 4 p.m., is one of them. This rotating curated exhibition features over 20 distinguished New Mexico pastel, watercolor, oil, mixed-media, photography and silk painting artists like Robert Kuester, Mary Oelschlaeger, Lawrence Chvotzkin and Penny Thomas Simpson. Sales benefit cancer patients throughout the state. High Noon Restaurant & Saloon provides wine and nibbles. The event is free, with donations gratefully accepted. Visit www. nmcancercenterfoundation.org.

November was the month of gratitude, and I’m grateful for Paddy Rawal’s newest restaurant, OM. The celebrated Raaga (Santa Fe) owner took over the vacated Annapurna’s on North Fourth Street and turned it into a white-linen but decidedly approachable Indian feast. The flavors pop—try the tandoori ancho and chicken tikka masala. And do not leave out the extraordinary, if unassumingly named, carrot pudding. This dessert marries the essence of its otherwise mundane main ingredient with Indian culinary wizardry to create something amazing—not a pudding magazine.com

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Buzz

the

in the tradition of smooth custard, more like a heavenly, sweet carrot mash. The lunch buffet is a bargain at $8.95 (watch out for the extra charge for refills on your chai). Visit www.omindiandining. com for hours and reservations (you’ll need them for dinner).

| Paddy Rawal of OM Lots of Duke City denizens are grateful for 25 years of Flying Star Cafe, too.

More than 250,000 people carry their Frequent Flyer cards, which work at any of the nine neighborhood locations, including those in Bernalillo and Santa Fe. Each is a successful testament to the company’s original mission: to create a place where people can gather to break bread and enjoy good conversation, a place that gives back to the community where the cafes, their teams and their customers reside. Here’s to the next 25 years!

craft batches from unique recipes using traditional brewing methods. “We started out as home brewers ourselves and love the creativity that amateurs bring to brewing,” said Donavan Lane, owner of Broken Bottle Brewery, located in the Sun Country Plaza near Coors and Irving.

Hurry in soon, because Trav’s Beer won’t last long. Call 505.890.8777.

More big props to art community movers and shakers Julia Mandeville (Harwood Art Center), Skye MorrisDevore and David Hargis (Tractor Brewing Company) and designer Shastyn Friedman—collectively known as Catalyst Club—for their anticipated Spring 2013 opening of ArtBar in the old Jazzbah space at Second and Gold.

Envisioned as a membership club, exhibition and creative venue (as well as a grant making organization for local arts non-profits), ArtBar snapped up over 50 founding members in just 24 hours. The Catalyst members are blown away by the community’s support so far. Get on the mailing list at www.catalystclubnm.org and support this exciting new venture.

Another reason to look forward to spring—especially for those of you in the Northeast Heights—is the second location of hipster phenom Farina Pizzeria. Coowner Terry Keene (of the venerable Artichoke Café) confirms he’s investing $250,000 in décor and adding another wood-burning pizza oven in the former Pacific Rim Asian Bistro on Montgomery NE. Farina is famous for its crisp crust pizzas, dynamite salads and appetizers— and infamous for being packed to its noisy gills. A larger space in the Heights should take some of the pressure off the Downtown location. I can taste the balsamic-glazed meatballs now.

SANTA FE

| Happy Anniversary!

The Torres family recently gave thanks for three years of running The Luna Mansion Landmark Steakhouse in Los Lunas. This must-see national and state historic landmark features exceptional dining, and this month they are offering a lovely Victorian Christmas setting.

Plus, long anticipated Sunday brunch has arrived! It’s only minutes down the road, so visit www.lunamansion.com or call 505.865.7333 for directions and reservations.

Congrats to Broken Bottle Brewery for serving State Fair amateur brew recipe Silver Medal–winner Travis Keim’s Belgian-style witbier as a seasonal special. Albuquerque’s first Westside microbrewery wants to work with other amateur brewers, too, to create

Hip hurrah to Santa Fe University of Art and Design’s theater program!

Trade publication Backstage Magazine named it second best in the nation outside Los Angeles, behind prestigious Emory University and ahead of Tulane, University of North Carolina School of the Arts and UT Austin.The magazine cited New Mexico’s résumé of major films, the potential for background work and SFUAD’s film school and campus connection to Garson Studios,where movies like True Grit and No Country for Old Men were filmed.

Winter is the season of baked goods.

What better place to indulge than Chez Mamou, a new French bakery and cafe at 217 E. Palace? Pastry chef Paul Perrier came out of retirement (17 years at Café Paris) to partner with owner Noella Rose (of Noella Jewelry Couture, which shares the space), working his yeasty magic for breakfast, lunch or a afternoon coffee and pastry. Don’t forget the savories! How about Eggs Benedict, croques male and female, quiche or sandwiches made with both croissant and baguette? You didn’t

If gluten-free and/or vegan is more your taste, give a hearty welcome to Santa Fe’s latest addition to the burgeoning glutenfree bakery scene, Momo & Co. on Johnson Street. Owner Leslie Thompson should be familiar to Eldorado Farmers’ Market frequenters as the genius behind Momocakes. She’s tweaked recipes for cupcake favorites, like red velvet, carrot and coconut. Pair your cake with handcrafted boba tea—an interesting mix of tea (black, green or herbal) and tapioca pearls from tea talent and business partner, Carola Kieve, who’s deconstructed the usual sugary mess into an all-natural treat. Get there early; the bakery selection dwindles remarkably fast. Or maybe not so remarkably: the small shop is brightly decorated, has a colorful kids play area and the cupcakes rock! Call 505.983.8000 or visit www. momoandcompany.com.

| Cupcakes from Momocakes When you demand more than cupcakes in your gluten-free goods, Revolution Bakery off Cerrillos near St. Michael’s has a full line of breads, cakes, pies, muffins, cookies, cupcakes, coffee cakes, brownies and scones, plus pizzas, sandwiches and salads. We made a dynamite gluten-free French toast out of their brioche and snarfed down the fruit-and-oat bars. Plan for a leisurely experience, though, since this revolution is laid back. Use the time to read the ingredient list posted by every item.

You’ll learn that wheat really isn’t necessary for producing amazing baked goods. Visit www.revolutionbakery.com.

| Revolution Bakery And what goes with bread? Meat. Jolly Hog Specialty Meats. The carnivorous duo of Chef Brian Rood and Chef Gabe Archuleta want to bring their hand-crafted, hand-spiced and hardwoodsmoked charcuterie, sandwiches and sides

to your workplace, party or gathering.

For cured-meat aficionados, the bresaola, capicola and lomo will be ready in late December/early January. The bacon, chorizo, boudin and smoked sausages are available now. Visit www.jolly-hog-meats. com or call 505.450.7704.

many of the tastiest dishes and desserts came to be. Two New World items are highlighted: chocolate and maté; the show traces the origins of these popular drinks and their central roles in Spanish Colonial culture. Visit www. internationalfolkart.org.

Mishmash. A useful Yiddish word meaning a random collection of things (like this column). Or those such as you might find at Hillside Market on Old Las Vegas Highway next to Harry’s Roadhouse. Owners Pam Fennell, Tisha Sjostrand and Kate Sjostrand bring together furniture, painting, photography, vintage clothes, hats and purses, food items, knick knacks and gifts under one, many-roomed roof. The prices (from cheap to dear) will draw you in, and the coffee shop and free wifi will convince you to hang out in the light, warm and airy space. And the nursery/koi rescue in the back. And the Beneficial Farms Community Supported Agriculture delivery on Thursdays. Visit www. santafehillsidemarket.com.

Have you seen the cornucopia of readings, events and holiday happenings at Collected Works Bookstore? Just browsing their monthly event email is like paging through the old Sears Holiday Wishbook of yore. There’s something I want to do everywhere I look. Like the fourth annual live reading presentation of Christmas Stories by the Collected Works Christmas Players (Ali MacGraw, Jonathan Richards, Robert Martin, and Carol McGiffin), on December 9. Or the December 15 Santa Fe Opera Guild Breakfast Lecture Team discussion of Verdi’s “Aida,” followed by the Lensic’s highdefinition simulcast of the Metropolitan Opera’s “Aida”? Ack! Too many choices.

See www.cwbookstore.com for all these and more.

More welcomes! First, to James Cook, Kaune’s Neighborhood Market new wine and spirits director. A legend in Santa Fe wine circles and formerly the wine and spirits director at La Casa Sena Wine Shop, Cook brings his expertise to Kaune’s more than 400 wines from around the world, all hand-selected.

Certainly, Cook’s extraordinary palate complements Kaune’s unique and sophisticated selection of comestibles— and will delight its similarly unique and sophisticated customers. If you need another reason to head there, the store is partnering with The Food Depot this holiday season to help feed Northern New Mexico families. Grab bags ($10) filled with non-perishable items will be donated to The Food Depot. Bring in items from home, too.

As if that weren’t enough, the Santa Fe Desert Chorale’s Winter Festival is December 14–31, with 15 performances of four different programs presented in Santa Fe and Albuquerque. The SFDC’s 30th anniversary culminates with an ensemble of 25 professional singers from across the country, led by music director Joshua Habermann. Former music director Linda Mack Berven returns as guest conductor for post-Christmas performances, and additional guest conductors include Bradley Ellingboe, UNM’s Director of Choral Music, and Susan Byo Passell, director of the Rio Grande Youth Chorale. Visit www. desertchorale.org for a complete list of dates and programs.

Next, a welcome to Paul Hunsicker, one of Santa Fe’s original fine dining chefs. He’s baaaaack--this time at Azur, and says, “It’s nice to be back on the restaurant scene.” He will continue to feed us the pan-Mediterranean food Azur is known for—mouth-watering combinations of spices, fruits and savories inspired by the entire region— and keep entrees under $19 for us locals who remember him from Paul’s Restaurant (from 1989 to 2006, where La Boca is now). See the menu at www. azursantafe.com. Race you there!

Because no discussion of the holidays would be complete without chocolate, bite into the latest International Folk Art Museum exhibition, New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Maté y Más. Explore the way that foods around the world developed from mixing the old and the new, and discover how

Looking for a reason to root for spring?

How about the February beginning of Santa Fe Master Gardener Association certification classes? Evening and morning options, the classes are offered in two tracks. Track one is a Master Gardener certification program leading to membership in SFMGA, taught by NMSU educators and local experts.

Track two offers attendance at the lecture series, only with no certification or membership in SFMGA. Either way, evening classes begin Feb. 4, at 6 p.m.; morning courses begin Feb. 6, at 9 a.m.; and all courses are held at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds. For complete details, go to www.sfmga.org or call 505471-4711. The deadline for applications is December 31!

TAOS One of the most beautiful events during Yuletide in Taos is Lighting Ledoux, a centuries-old tradition that illuminates

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

historic Ledoux Street and surrounding courtyards with luminarias and farolitos.

Galleries, museums and district businesses will be open late December 8 for a free “block party” family event with festive music, food and entertainment. Santa also makes a special guest appearance at the Harwood Museum of Art/UNM that evening. Other events include Bonfires on Bent Street, on Dec. 15, La Noche on the Plaza, on Dec. 22, and the New Year’s Eve Torchlight Parade and Fireworks, featuring skiers with torches in hand who glide down the famous Taos Ski Valley slopes under starry skies, followed by fireworks. All area ski resorts, including Angel Fire, Enchanted Forest and Red River, have torchlight parades and fireworks during the holiday season, too.

Photo: Toas Ski Valley

think Santa Fe needed another French bakery and café? You were wrong.

| Torchlight Parade and Fireworks Taos is one of only a handful of towns that celebrates Las Posadas—a Mexican Christmas tradition that starts on Dec. 16 and ends nine days later on Christmas Eve. Re-enacting of Mary and Joseph’s search for lodging, each night the group representing the Holy Family will stand outside a home and sing songs, asking for lodging, only to be turned away. Followers accompany them, carrying candles, as the couple searches for a home to take them in. The re-enactment begins outside St. Francis de Asis Church each night at dusk.

Nowhere else but Taos Pueblo can visitors experience the unforgettable Christmas Eve Procession and watch the Taos Pueblo Deer Dance or Matachines Dance on Christmas Day. At sunset on Christmas Eve, witness the stunning contrast between glowing bonfires and the Procession of the Virgin Mary, a pageant of beauty, heritage and aweinspiring imagery at this 1,000-year-old pueblo. The following day at noon, watch either the ancient ceremonial Deer or Matachines Dance—each has been performed for centuries. Recording devices such as cameras and cell phones are not allowed on either day at the pueblo.Visit www.taospueblo.com for more details, or call 575.758.1028.

December 2012 - January 2013

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GoldenPanaderia Crown s t o r y b y E M I LY B E E N E N

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A

fter 38 years as the owner of New Mexico’s reigning bakery, Golden Crown Panaderia’s founder Pratt Morales isn’t even considering a break. A man with selfdescribed “endless energy” derived from his profession, he’s just getting warmed up for another 38 years. “For 74, I do pretty well,” he grins, setting up the joke. “I’m a one-percenter … but in health.” Born and raised in San Antonio, Texas, Morales found his way to Albuquerque in 1963, when he was stationed at Kirtland Air Force Base.

Even though his role in the service was as a numbers guy, Morales found he had a particular affinity for baking.

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December 2012 - January 2013

Pratt Morales and Chris Morales

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“After many tours, no matter which country I was sent to in the service,” he recalls, “I always ended up at the local bakery.” So in 1972, with recipes gathered from local families and the conviction that every neighborhood needs a bakery, Morales opened his own. After the first location on Central sold in 1984, Golden Crown Panaderia moved to its current spot in the cheerfully decorated adobe on the corner of Mountain and 11th, where it’s been blossoming for the past 28 years (excepting a short stint in the late 1990s when, at age 65, Morales applied and was accepted to—of all things—the Albuquerque Police Department). Morales acknowledges that many neighborhood bakeries haven’t been able to survive, but rather than wait for the inevitable, he smartly studied the businesses that failed and then made changes to his own accordingly. For example, while many businesses do the bulk of their baking at night, Morales decided to concentrate on baking during regular business hours. There are several advantages to this; primarily, it turns the bakery into a showcase during the day. “People get to come and talk to us, especially at-home bakers, who come in and have questions and need help,” he explains. “There’s no wall here between the customer and the baker. No walls. We’re out in the open, and people can be more comfortable, because they can see what’s going on.” And because most people are unaccustomed to working all night, there’s also the added benefit of more efficient, higher functioning employees.

Many big bakeries make the mistake of using computerized machines to make their products, but at Golden Crown all the baking is done by hand. Much of the equipment and ovens were considered antique when first purchased, but they are very durable—and if they happen to break down, there’s no need to call in a specialized technician; the bakers can fix them themselves. Morales prefers to retain an “old-fashioned” storefront, choosing to go high-tech more selectively for behind-the-scenes things like accounting or an internet training program, which is particularly useful during the hiring influx of the holiday season.

As a result, Golden Crown doesn’t just survive but readily competes with any commercial bakery business, big or small, and in a time when “others are having a hard time finding a customers, we are never lacking,” Morales states proudly. “These are examples of how we are becoming more efficient, how we are thriving.” Morales is also extremely proud of the relationship and partnership with his son, Chris who’s been “official” partner in the business since 2002 (though he’s been behind the counter helping customers since he was a kid). Chris has helped the business evolve and grow without compromising any of its quality or charm. “When people walk in the bakery,” Chris says, “it’s like they’re going back home. Smell and taste provide the oldest memories, and a lot of people, when they walk in here, they say it’s just like grandma’s kitchen, and I think this bring a lot of warmth to people.”

It’s that warmth—and the omnipresent smell of bread and biscochitos baking—that have helped Golden Crown Panaderia build a tradition in the Sawmill District, one of Albuquerque’s oldest neighborhoods, tucked between Downtown and Old Town. Julia Child, never a woman to mince words, once questioned the credibility of the United States thus: “How can a nation be great if its bread tastes like Kleenex?” The bread baked at Golden Crown Panaderia is the antithesis of Kleenex. The name is an homage to the bread itself: the crust is golden, the crown affirms its royalty. (The Queen of England’s head baker even flew to Albuquerque and visited the panaderia not once, but twice in as many years.) All breads—the bolillos (Mexican hard rolls), Appaloosa (dark and light rye, swirled), Cinnamon-Raisin Whole Wheat, and Seven Grain—hold their place in the nobility, but here the trademarked New Mexico Green Chile bread is king. During the holiday season, up to 2,000 loaves are baked, many of them shipped nationally (and internationally) to homesick New Mexicans. It was always Morales’ intention for this special bread, designed with a coyote howling at the moon, to be given away to friends and family.

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“As we all know,” he says, “people eat with their eyes, so our baking philosophy is ‘nutritious, delicious and beautiful.’” Golden Crown elevates the biscochito, New Mexico’s state cookie and one of the bakery’s top sellers, offering a version for many palates: original, chocolate, cappuccino, even gluten- or sugar-free. Morales recalled that growing up, he always wanted to be the one sent to pick up the bread, because the bakery in his neighborhood gave a free cookie to kids. “We do the same here, except we refer to everybody as kids, at least until they’re 150,” he says, bringing his childhood experience full circle. “Calling them a kid, it brings them good memories and they smile.”

The biscochito is New Mexico’s humble and omnipresent celebration cookie, and this Christmas season, if you partake of one during the festivities, it very well may be from Golden Crown Panaderia—they’ll bake 4,000 dozen of them (that, by the way, is 48,000 cookies). Other popular New Mexican pastry highlights are wedding cookies, empanadas, and marranitos (little pig-shaped molasses cookies). Pizza was added to the menu in 2004, and its success was inevitable, since who would know a crust better than a baker? (And, for that matter, who else but a New Mexican baker could offer a blue corn or green chile crust?)

“We have an amazing product; everything we do here stands on its own,” Chris says. “We take our time, we get feedback from customers, the recipes evolve and, because of that, people are really excited about it and want to share.” Success, Chris says, is something you have to keep chipping away at and working toward. It never happens overnight. But his inspiration comes from building a business. “If I can imagine it, I can make it happen,” he says. “There are no limitations for me. My dad always instilled the motto ‘find a way’ in me.”

Other ideas coming to fruition are an indoor aquaponic garden (the synthesis of aquaculture and hydroponics), and eventually the bakery would like to grow 80-90% of their own tomatoes, herbs and lettuce. And because man cannot survive on bread alone, Golden Crown Panaderia is also in the process of obtaining a brewer’s license to brew their own beer. As with everything else, he says, we’ll start out small and grow into it.

The slow change hasn’t just occurred on the inside, either. As the bakery proper only has three small tables, the outdoor spaces needed to evolve slowly to provide for the steady increase in customers.

Recent renovations include a quaint old adobe-bricked patio as well as newly-tiled enclosed (and soon to be heated) porch, complete with twinkling lights and a plasma screen fireplace.

But at the heart of Golden Crown Panaderia is Pratt Morales.

He—and now his son Chris— essentially offer their lives to bread. No matter what’s baking in the old ovens—whether it’s a roasted turkey bread sculpture or a small bolillo—says Pratt Morales, “it is something ancient, very old, come up to life. The real part comes to play when we bake our creations. It’s almost like the old civilizations that used to shape bread like animals and walk to the highest point of the country and give thanks for the good harvest. In essence, we also try to honor the gods, for a good harvest.” And for this, our daily bread, we give thanks.

Golden Crown Panaderia is located at 1103 Mountain Road NW in Albuquerque. 505.243.2424. www.goldencrown.biz. They are open Tuesday through Saturday, from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Monday.

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Theatre for EVERYONE. A Christmas Carol November 29th - December 16th Thursdays - Saturdays at 8pm, Sundays at 2pm

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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story by CHEF JOHNNY VEE photos by KITTY LEAKEN

D

uring a most extraordinary dinner this past summer, at a magical restaurant called Rundles, in Stratford, Ontario, I asked my waitress to bring me a side of vegetables to augment my already perfect meal; I had three hours of the Bard ahead of me, and I needed to fuel myself. What she returned with was the most exquisite plate of veggies I have ever sampled: eight identical tiny baby bok choy, simply steamed and sprinkled with a dash of sea salt. It was a revelation. They were so simple in their presentation, so delicious in their lack of adornment, they linger still in my mind––a highlight on a list of the fantastic food that has crossed my lips this year.

My career motto for 2012 has been, “Nice work if you can get it.” To be able to write about the food, chefs and foodies that I love is truly the cream of my vocation. And though I love to travel and dine around the world, I know, like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, that the best is in my own backyard. There truly is no place like home!

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The Compound Buttermilk Roast Chicken | Chef/Owner Mark Kiffin Just up the block at The Compound Restaurant, Mark Kiffin gives comfort food a makeover with his Buttermilk Roast Chicken with Foie Gras Pan Gravy and Creamed Spinach. Gussying up this classic dish is pure invention—downtown food getting an uptown spin. Foie gras is mostly fat, and clever Kiffin uses it for the pan gravy roux.

I love lunch here during the winter months; the multitude of windows let in plenty of sunshine, and the Chicken Schnitzel with Capers and Lemon is another personal favorite.

The Compound Restaurant is located on 653 Canyon Road Santa Fe, (505) 982-4353, www. compoundrestaurant.com

Tomme Poached Egg, Warm Frisée, and Danish Blue Cheese Salad | Chef Joseph Wrede Now that Joseph Wrede has taken up the stoves at Tomme, he seems more relaxed, more in his element in this intimate setting. His Poached Egg, Frisée, and Danish Blue Cheese Salad with Bacon Vinaigrette and Duck Liver Toast perfectly exemplifies the talents of the guy who catapulted Taos into the national culinary spotlight a decade ago at Joseph’s Table. There is something extremely sensual about a runny egg yolk in a dish; it pulls together the other elements of the classic French salad, and, with the help of a zippy vinaigrette, ups the yum factor. The addition of English peas is a pure Wrede touch, while the duck liver toast is a rich sit-in for a crouton and the creative gild to an already luscious lily. Kudos to owner Maria “Max” Renteria for giving Joe a table here to show off his talents.

Tomme is located at 229 Galisteo Street Santa Fe, (505) 820-2253, www.tommesf.com.

Mucho Gusto “The Bomb” | Alex Jr. & George Castro The casual atmosphere and downtown setting make Mucho Gusto a much-loved neighborhood hangout; I suspect tourists are told, “It’s where the locals eat.” It’s touted as a Mexican restaurant and offers up the usual suspects: chips, salsa, tacos, burritos et al., but it’s the Stuffed Chicken Breast (aka “The Bomb”) that keeps me going back. Stuffed with jack cheese, roasted poblanos, almonds and sun-dried tomatoes, and then sauced with a decadent mushroom and chipotle sauce, it is certainly gourmet Mexican and worth every calorie. Forget your diet: order their perfect guacamole starter and end with the Chocolate Ice Cream Pie! Mucho Gusto is located 839 Paseo De Peralta Santa Fe, (505) 955-8402, www.muchogustosantafe.com Continued on page 22 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Tune Up Café Buffalo Burger Mu Du Noodles Daikon Cakes | Owner/chef Mu Jing Lau

What we love about Asian food is how it tickles and delights the four important elements of taste: hot, sweet, salty and sour.

Add crunch to the mix, and your taste buds go crazy. At Mu Du Noodles the Daikon Cakes have it all (minus the sour). I have them every time I go there. Every time. The giant radish is grated, steamed, formed and pan-seared to a golden finish, then swirled with oyster sauce. The resulting dish is warm and creamy in the center and crispy on the outside. Mu has to make the mixture buckets at a time; clearly I am not its only fan.

Mu Du Noodles is located at 1494 Cerrillos Road Santa Fe, (505) 983-1411, www.mudunoodles.com

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| Chef/Owner Jesus Rivera Sometimes, what’s wrong with the world can be fixed with a big fat juicy burger, and if you happen to be in New Mexico, there just has to be green chile on top. At Tune Up Café, there are three burgers on offer: a beef version, a surprisingly delicious (given that I’m a carnivore) brown rice–nut burger, and my favorite, the Buffalo Burger. It’s made with meat from Bosque Farms and served on a brioche bun with garlic mayo, green chile and cheese (of course!), as well as hand-cut fries. It’s a two-hander, which makes it all the more fun to eat. The bun is the best in town, and the fries are pretty damn great, to boot. I love the new cozy bar and can never seem to get out of the place without a peanut butter–Nutella cookie sandwich in tow. Plus Charlotte and Jesus Rivera couldn’t be more hospitable, as evidenced by the friendly neighborhood feel of the joint.

Tune Up Cafe located on 1115 Hickox Street Santa Fe,, (505) 9837060, http://tuneupsantafe.com.

Photo: Kate Russell

Geronimo Vermont Maple– Scented Teriyaki Scottish Salmon

Luminaria Lobster Tacos | Chef Brett Sparman

| Chef Eric DiStefano

I created a bit of a stir when I went on record last month and deemed Geronimo my favorite restaurant of the year. (Well, a stir among my chef friends, at least.) One of the dishes that caused me to cast my vote that way is the Vermont Maple–Scented Teriyaki Scottish Salmon with Sweet Pea Israeli Couscous Risotto and Asian Pineapple Chutney. On a menu that celebrates Global French Asian cuisine and sits beside other DiStefano hits (elk tenderloin, grilled lobster tails, heavenly lamb chops), the salmon lets you think you’re eating healthy but spoils you with the extremely creamy couscous and sweet and tart chutney. I defend my vote and thank Chef Eric, backed by Chef de Cuisine Paul Novak, for their culinary landslide. In a word, delish!

Geronimo is located on 724 Canyon Road Santa Fe, (505) 982-1500, www.geronimorestaurant.com.

Brett Sparman is doing a fantastic job since taking over Luminaria at The Inn and Spa at Loretto. His talent for food play is evident in his Lobster Tacos. Sparman’s motto may well be, “Take something simple and make it soar.”

White corn tortillas are topped with tender achiote citrus–glazed lobster chunks, cabbage escabeche, yogurt and micro basil. I like that Sparman is taking street food and giving it a luxurious spin. It’s as if your taco cart were parked in a very good neighborhood. I’ve said it before: this young chef is one to watch.

Luminaria is located at 211 Old Santa Fe Trail Santa Fe, (505) 988-5531, www.innatloretto.com.

Continued on page 26 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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Café Fina Cloud Cakes

Santa Fe Bar & Grill Prime Rib

| Owner Murphy O’Brien

A Vollertsen family tradition when I visit Rochester is a meal at a rural restaurant called The Red Osier. Great honking sides of prime rib are wheeled around the dining room and carved at the table. Much closer to home and just as delicious is the Santa Fe Bar & Grill’s Friday Night Prime Rib Special. It’s a nice 10 oz. cut of prime rib served appropriately au jus, with creamy horseradish sauce and roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

It’s a pocket-friendly price, as well, and I’m such a fan that this dish appears on the menu for the Las Cosas Christmas party held at the grill every year. Thanks to owner, Robbie Day, and manager, Sean Ewy, for making their restaurant my local hangout 365 days a year.

I generally don’t like pancakes.

Never order ‘em, don’t care what’s in ‘em. Not a fan. Except at Café Fina, where the Cloud Cakes with Berries seem to originate from some heavenly place (hence the name). The secret is the addition of ricotta and the separation of the eggs; the whites are whipped before being folding into the batter. Light, fluffy and almost ethereal, these lofty wonders will make you forget every Shrove Tuesday meal you suffered through as a child.

Café Fina is the darling hangout of the Eldorado crowd, but downtowners love it too. Husband-and-wife team, Murphy and Annamaria O’Brien, keep it simple but delicious with a concise breakfast and lunch menu, with ever-changing pastries and other baked goodies. (I also love the Eldorado omelet.)

Santa Fe Bar & Grill is located at 187 Paseo De Peralta Santa Fe, (505) 982-3033, www.santafebargrill.com.

Cafe Fina is located at 624 Old Las Vegas Highway Santa Fe, (505) 466-3886, www. cafefinasantafe.com

| Owner Robbie Day

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| Chef James Campbell Caruso Many cuisines have a version of fried meatballs. In Bulgaria they are called kyufte; in Denmark, frikadeller; in the Philippines, bola bola. But under Chef James Campbell Caruso’s deft hand at Taberna La Boca, the pork meatballs are bathed in a smokey Morocco-esque tomato-cum-cinnamon broth. Carrying the Spanish name Albondigas, they are available as tapas or as a main course. There is so much to love at this hopping new spot I find myself going again and again just to explore the huge menu.

Taberna La Boca is located at 72 West Marcy Street Santa Fe, (505) 988-7102, http://labocasf.com/taberna-la-boca

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Taberna La Boca Albondigas

W

riting this story reminds me of the Italian word abbondanza, which means abundance, wealth, richness and affluence. I can’t think of a better description of our town’s culinary scene––or a better wish—to ring the New Year in with. I also can’t wait to see what our town’s talented chefs have in store for us in 2013. Have a delicious holiday! JV

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Taste The New Southwest

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M

SKI RUNS!

emories of skiing…A vista of mountains opening up around me, the world in winter white…The wind biting my face when I point my boards down the open slope, and the thrill of speed, skis clattering over packed powder…Picking stor y by BARRY FIELDS a line through the moguls and carving turns in rapid succession, my body warming up from the satisfying exertion …The hush of a solitary wonderland of conifers as I glide through a glade…And resting and enjoying the view when I ride the lift back to the top to revel in the exhilaration of another run.

I feel blessed to live so close to two ski areas I love. The Santa Fe Ski Basin is a mere 15 miles (and one gorgeous drive away) from downtown. Extending 66 acres, it has a relatively short 1,725 foot vertical drop. But the base is 10,350 feet, and Tesuque Peak is 12,051 feet––elevations that guarantee good, dry snow conditions throughout most of the winter. And Taos Ski Valley, with 113 trails and a 2,612 foot vertical drop, provides world-class skiing and was named one of Outside magazine’s top 15 North American ski resorts, based on snow quality and terrain.

Cody Sheppard, director of Santa Fe Ski Basin’s ski patrol, is intimately familiar with every square inch of the place. He rates Gay Way, which starts at the triple chair lift on Tesuque Peak, as the best cruiser on the mountain, the perfect fun run for the intermediate skier. “It’s wide open, it’s groomed nightly and it has spectacular views,” he says enthusiastically. “You can see the whole Rio Grande Valley,” in addition to several mountain ranges. It earns his accolades for its combination of good, smooth snow; room to make wide turns; undulating terrain with a few steeper sections; and awesome backdrop. More advanced skiers can make a short detour onto the ungroomed terrain of Cornice, just to the left of Gay Way, where after a storm you’ll find good powder.

For a sustained but not overly demanding mogul run, Sheppard picks Roadrunner, which goes right under the triple chair from top to bottom. It’s rated an advanced run, he notes, “but it’s not terribly steep, and it’s good for someone first venturing out to try something more challenging. It’s a black diamond you don’t have to be intimidated by.” With a 1,443 vertical foot drop, it runs almost a mile. It’s not too steep, and the slope generally follows the fall line, contributing to its relative ease. There’s room for fairly leisurely turns, making it a good place to learn to maneuver on the bumps. It’s also one of the runs where skiers head on a powder day. Part of it is above timberline (think great views again), and it’s so high that without intervention the wind exposes the ground. So the ski patrol sets up slot fences to collect snow, then takes them down to open the run. “It’s labor intensive,” Sheppard comments, “but it does an amazing job of keeping the terrain covered with snow.” But be careful if the snow is thin; as with any run that isn’t groomed, there are still sections where you can scrape up your skis on the rocks.

photo: Seth Bullington

| Taos Ski Valley

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!

Another trail gets more than an honorable mention from Sheppard, although it has just been created, so it has yet to be skied in full. Take the new Millennium Lift to try out Richard’s Run, a tree run for expert skiers.

Similar to the more familiar Tequila Sunrise, it provides wonderful glade skiing. As Sheppard points out, since it slopes due north and the snow is shaded by the trees, the snow stays soft, without developing a crust, for days after a storm. Again, most of the run follows the fall line, which makes the trees easier to negotiate.

photo: Lee Klopfer

| Santa Fe Ski Basin

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My good friend Carole Petiet, a psychologist in Berkeley, California, is passionate about skiing and has a cabin in the ski country of the Sierra Nevada. Yet every year for the past 20 years she has spent a week in Taos Ski Valley at the St. Bernard, a ski-in/ski-out hotel. Taos Ski Valley isn’t as high as Santa Fe, but it gets plenty of good, dry snow, with an average of over 300 inches a year. The base is 9,207 feet, and the highest lift lets you off at 11,819 feet.

Petiet loves the Taos slopes so much, it’s hard to pin her down to name just two or three favorite runs. For a warm-up cruiser, she recommends Around the World, actually a series of beginner and intermediate runs that starts at the top of Lift #2 and ends at the base of Lift #1. What she likes most about it is the length: “It’s a huge loop around the mountain that’s several miles long and it’s really fun. You get great views. Part of it is groomed and part of it isn’t.” Begin on Honeysuckle, make a left on Baby Bear, make a right when you reach Winkleried and go left on Rubezahl to the base.

Taos is an advanced skier’s paradise, with more than half the trails rated black or double black diamond. Among her favorite advanced runs, Petiet picks Lorelei, “a classic black run,” which she and I have skied together a number of times. To access it, start at the top of Lift #2 or Lift #6, and cruise down Bambi until you get to Lorelei Trees on your right, a challenging entrance to the trail. “It’s kind of dancing with the trees,” Petiet recalls dreamily, “quiet and beautiful. I have memories of it when it’s been deep, fresh powder and it feels like heli-skiing. I really do feel like a bird in the forest.” The glades let you out at Lorelei proper. (You can skip the trees by going down Bambi a little farther.) From there, a long run of steep pitches alternates with easy stretches. “I like it when they just open it and it isn’t tracked out,” Petiet muses. “It’s so light and wonderfully fluffy.”

Two other areas Petiet loves if there’s enough snow: the West Basin and Al’s Run. Get off Lift #2 and take the hair-raising traverse immediately to your right toward the West Basin, where you can choose from several runs. “It’s over-the-top fabulous. It’s so steep,” she explains, “you have to be truly an expert skier or a person with endless guts.” (She is both.) Al’s Run plunges down vertiginously under Lifts #1 and #5. “It requires a lot of snow to be great. It has huge bumps all the way down. You need a lot of experience and a lot of balance. It’s very exciting when you get in the groove of bumps and fly down.” From my own experience with Al’s Run, the bumps are so humongous that “flying” is hardly an option.

In our region, according to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, “Winter will be cooler and wetter than normal, with near- to above-normal snowfall. The coldest periods will occur in early and mid-December and late February.

The snowiest periods will occur in early to mid-December and early to mid-February.” That translates to plenty of good snow when we hit the slopes.

For rates and tickets, lodging information, maps, snow report and other details on New Mexico’s marvelous skiing go to www.skinewmexico.com.

photos: Seth Bullington

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Come celebrate the holidays with your family & friends!

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Making Spirits Bright Let Rio Chama Help You Enjoy The Holidays.

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Corner of Camino de la Placita and Ledoux St. Open Monday – Saturday 10am to 5pm

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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TaosHum

s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E photos by LENNY FOSTER

n our regular column, Tania Casselle introduces us to the locals who make Taos Hum. During this festive season, we meet two individuals who brighten people’s lives and bring cheer to all.

Clark the Service Dog

Clark is always ready with a helping paw to give comfort to patients and their families at Holy Cross Hospital.

The two-year-old Labrador Retriever is a facility service dog (and he’s one patriotic pooch too, born on the Fourth of July). Clark is too modest to woof about the 90 different tasks he’s boned up on—including opening and closing doors, picking up dropped items and turning on lights—but the most important part of his job is to cheer people up with a visit. He’ll rest his head on patients’ laps and gaze up at them, and he always welcomes a hug.

“He’s just love, and that’s what he wants people to know,” says Clark’s owner and handler, social worker Denise Frank. That’s true whether Clark is helping to calm anxious outpatient visitors or donning scrubs to pad around the inpatient wards. Research shows that the presence of an animal helps reduce patients’ stress and lower blood pressure, and he’s also given a new leash on life for staff during their work day. Like many Taos residents, Clark originally hails from New York. He moved as a pup to Santa Fe for training by Assistance Dogs of the West, then hightailed it to Taos this summer to fulfill his vocation at Holy Cross Hospital.

After a long day’s loving, Clark trots home and the service vest comes off. He relaxes by wrestling with his doggie pals or taking a walk or a swim. “Any hike with a lake at the end of it is his favorite,” says Frank. He’ll eat almost anything, even after enjoying treats all day at the hospital as his “paycheck.” And, as a health care professional, he’s very into his veggies. “We have tomato plants, and he’s picked tomatoes off the plant to bring them to me,” says Frank. “I guess he likes to farm.”

It’s usually advisable to check with an owner before touching their service dog, but if you see Clark at Holy Cross Hospital in his official work vest, there’s no need to ask if you can pet him. For Clark the answer will always be yes.

Clark hangs out as man’s best friend at Holy Cross Hospital, 1397 Weimer Road, Taos. www.taoshospital.org.

Jeff Mugleston

Jeff Mugleston has helped organize the Taos Ski Valley Torchlight parade for 27 years, including this year when (if you look hard enough) you might spot him amongst the band of brave souls skiing down the night mountain, holding their red flares aloft and sometimes showing off with a jump, to the applause of spectators below. “The easy part is the part you see,” says Mugleston. “The hard part is getting there in the dark without the torches lit and doing it all safely.”

He fondly remembers a year when five inches of snow fell as the group waited to ski down. “Skiing powder in the dark!” How do the skiers pass the time up there before the parade kicks off? “A lot of people who do Torchlight have been doing it for many years. There’s a kinship. We remember friends past and celebrate people’s birthdays. The camaraderie, being the only people watching the sunset on the top of the mountain … It never gets any less exciting or less fun.” Can skiers hear the crowd cheering? “Oh yes, you bet!”

Mugleston grew up in Santa Fe. “Never grew up, though! Just grew older.” He started as a ski instructor, and now he manages the Taos Ski Valley’s Adult Snowsports School. “Taos is the mecca for anyone who wants to ski the big mountains, so I naturally came this way.” During the off-season he’s taught skiing in New Zealand, too, “doing the endless winter thing.” He’s an avid mountain biker and also works for the Forest Service, maintaining a 100- mile stretch of the Continental Divide Trail in the Carson National Forest. “Mountains provide a great opportunity to see an environment in its natural state,” says Mugleston. “Go up to Williams Lake in the winter: quiet, no tracks, pristine. There’s nothing like that.”

You don’t have to be a skier to enjoy the Torchlight Parade and the fireworks display that follows, sparkling against a backdrop of snow. “As New Mexicans, we like to put things off to the last minute,” jokes Mugleston, “but get there early!” He’s right. Traffic is heavy on Torchlight Parade nights. Dress warmly, nurse a hot toddy from your viewing spot and watch the magic unfold.

Torchlight Parade lights up on Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve and Ernie Blake’s Birthday Celebration Day, March 9, 2013. See www.skitaos.org for updates and times.

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Albuquerque Power Chefs call their faves

Five Albuquerque restaurant owners and chefs name their favorite dishes—at another restaurant!—then give us tips on the next hot ingredient, technique or trend for 2013.

If you do a quick Google search this time of the year, you’ll find the top five (or ten, or 50) of everything: the best reads, the best songs, the best blogs and even the year’s best news stories. Some of my favorite lists have to do with, of course, food and wine, and I could spend hours cruising through nationwide or city-specific lists ogling the array of restaurants, dishes and outstanding wine lists. This year, Local Flavor wanted to discover the best dishes in Albuquerque, but instead of leaving it to the journalists and food writers, we decided to ask some of the city’s most illustrious chefs and restaurateurs to give us their favorites.

Not only do these powerhouses dish on their most beloved eats, but they also give us some insight into what’s in store for the Duke City’s culinary scene in 2013. In line with the season—and the economy—these chefs and restaurant owners all agree that cooking with local ingredients is one of the new hot trends for the coming year. This is clear from the success of places like Los Poblanos and Skarsgard Farms. I recently signed up for Skarsgard’s Harvest Box Program, a cooler full of my “share” of the season’s fresh fruits and vegetables delivered each week. I couldn’t be happier with my box full of sweet potatoes, winter squash and fresh fluffy spinach.

Another trend for the coming year is homestyle, rustic meals that get back to the basics: preserving produce (i.e. your grandmother’s apricot jams and jellies), using the whole animal (forget about tenderloins) and an emphasis on the true flavor of the food (let’s taste the lamb, not disguise it with complicated sauces!). Who wouldn’t agree that some of the best meals in life are the simple pot roasts and chicken dinners of family gatherings? So put your best linens away and leave the foams, syringes and spherical strawberry bubbles of food chemistry on the back burner—let’s get down to the business of savory. Who knew you’d find a bit of your grandmother’s kitchen in your favorite Albuquerque restaurants?

story by ERIN BROOKS photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

Pat Keene of The Artichoke Café

> Pat and Terry at the Grove for Crêpes

They’re served all over the world and made with an array of different ingredients: buttermilk, blueberries and, in our neck of the woods, blue corn. No matter the style, pancakes are a classic breakfast item. Pat Keene of the Artichoke Café is a fan, and her favorite are those at The Grove Cafe & Market. She loves the lighter, cleaner version of these French-style pancakes. “They’re thin, like a cross between a crepe and a pancake, and served with crème fraîche. With other pancakes it feels like you’re eating pure carbs, but these are more substantial.”

Pat includes crepes on the lunch menu at The Artichoke Café and says that this type of light but savory dish is one of the trends she sees moving forward. These days, focus has shifted to healthier, fresher, local ingredients, especially an array of different greens. Pat says, “I think super greens like kale, Swiss chard and collards are going to be huge this year. We’re seeing people eat them in salads, stuffings, soups and braised. You can eat them and feel good about what you just ate!”

Pat, who is committed to serving sustainable and organic foods, says Albuquerque consumers and chefs are becoming more aware of this type of fare, and it shows in the quality of the food. “Eating foods that are in season and fresher is important—it’s how we ate before the industrialization of our food supply. If you eat clean, healthy food, you don’t have to ‘diet’ because the food is more nourishing.”

The Grove Cafe & Market is at 600 Central Ave SE, Suite A, in Albuquerque.

505.248.9800.

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Claus Hjortkjaer of La Provence > Fois Gras for Chef Claus At La Provence, Claus Hjortkjaer says that after 40 years of being a chef, he still gets excited about foie gras. His favorite dish pick brings us full circle to Jennifer James 101: he absolutely loves the foie gras there, as well as the atmosphere and concept of Jennifer’s restaurant. “I like the foie gras because it’s never prepared quite the same. The restaurant has a great atmosphere and attention to detail. The menu isn’t large, but what’s included is very well prepared.”

Claus concurs with his colleagues about trends for 2013. He feels that with the economy in its current state, people are becoming more aware and more critical of what they eat. He says, “People may not eat out as often as they used to, but when they do they want top-notch homemade meals.” He also believes that simplicity is key. “I’m of the opinion that you don’t cover up the food with flavor, but you enhance the food with flavor. I never serve cocktail sauce with oysters—that covers up the flavor of the oysters!”

Claus says people are looking for the same thing in wine as they are in food. “If people go out and order a bottle, they’re more inclined to have something special, above and beyond, more of a handcrafted, flavorful wine from a small winery, not something mass produced.” This is why he likes Gruet. “When I go to Gruet, the winemaker isn’t sitting in his office. He’s in the vineyard, standing between the vines.” Cheers to that!

Jennifer James 101 is at 4615 Menaul Blvd. NE in Albuquerque. 505.884.3860.

Chris Pope of Zinc > Love that Bacalao at Torino’s Arguably one of the strongest attractions to food stems from childhood memories, and for Chris Pope one of these is salt cod. “One of my favorite dishes is the bacalao at Torino’s @ Home. It reminds me of my mother’s cooking—she used to cook with salt cod.” Chris says the appetizer, served with bread and salad, illustrates what our other powerhouse chefs have confirmed: in 2013, it’s all about simple, homestyle food. Chris says, “The bacalao is indicative of trends going forward— rustic, homey, affordable.” He also believes in supporting local businesses.

“In Albuquerque, what’s exciting to me are the smaller scale, independently owned restaurants like P’tit Louis Bistro and little burger places. These are the places I want to eat at, not the commercial chain restaurants.”

Chris points out that in Albuquerque, there has been an increase in local suppliers as well as more interest from patrons, and that opens up the opportunity to experiment. For example, if you buy local meats, you’ve got to find ways to use the whole animal, and this includes cuts like pork belly, oxtail and offal.

He explains, “As restaurateurs, we have to keep our price points from rising, so we can’t serve only tenderloin. We have to find ways to be creative with our cooking and also bring people value.” Right now, Chris is enjoying experimenting with sausage in his dishes, and he says that these more cost-effective side cuts naturally lend themselves to simple, homey, rustic dishes.

Torino’s @ Home is at 7600 Jefferson St. NE in Albuquerque. 505.797.4491.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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Jennifer James of Jennifer James 101 > Beef Pho... JJ’s favorite comfort food You can’t talk about homestyle cooking without considering soup, especially during the winter season. One of Jennifer James’ favorite dishes is the beef pho at Pho Nguyen (specifically the “B2” pho menu option). Jennifer’s choice has to do with the quality of the food as well as the ethics of eating locally. She says, “The beef pho is clean, fresh and invigorating, and this is a small, familyrun business that is consistent and conscientious.” Jennifer emphasizes that the trend moving forward will be a commitment to local food—not just farmers but independently owned restaurants as well. “When you eat locally, a little goes a long way,” Jennifer points out. “The $50 you spend on a local business touches a lot of fingers. People think they can’t do much but they really can— and if they don’t, these local places will disappear.”

Jennifer explains that with the current state of the economy, folks are staying closer to home and craving foods that fulfill them in a different way than the foams and pearls of molecular gastronomy. The trend for rustic simplicity in food springs partly from chefs needing to preserve local produce and this means jams, jellies, pickling and canning. Jennifer says, “I’ve been preserving foods since I’ve been cooking. When you take in local produce you want to keep it around for the winter. It’s something everyone used to do, and it provides this great burst of flavor on your plate.” Jennifer is currently serving dishes with preserved green tomatoes—yum!

Pho Nguyen is at 7202 Menaul Blvd. NE in Albuquerque. 505.830.6554.

Cherie Montoya Austin of Farm & Table >Moules Roquefort steals Cherie’s heart When you’re traveling, the best food spots are always the tiny local restaurants you stumble upon by accident. But if you’re lucky enough to live in Albuquerque, you don’t have to go searching for these places, as Cherie Montoya Austin, founder of Farm & Table, is quick to tell you. One of her favorite dishes is the Moules Roquefort at P’tit Louis Bistro in Nob Hill. Her description of the dish piques my appetite. “The mussels are so delicious, so homey and comforting. They’re in a white wine and blue cheese broth, and I can go through a whole bowl and be perfectly satisfied.”

As with our other restaurateurs and chefs, Cherie places huge importance on local food. She reminds me of a key aspect of Albuquerque that can easily be overlooked: 300 days a year of sunshine!

“Albuquerque has a vibrant farming community and with the use of greenhouses, we can grow food year round.” Farm & Table grows an abundance of produce for the restaurant on their 1.5-acre farm, with broccoli, cabbage, carrots and turnips in season right now, to name a few. Like Jennifer James, Cherie grew up preserving food and eating the produce grown by her family. “My grandparents grew all their own food. That’s the way we were raised, and food tastes better when it’s fresh.” Currently, the restaurant is in the midst of preserving quince, a highly aromatic, pear-like fruit, by turning it into membrillo paste, which is especially suited for holiday dishes.

P’tit Louis Bistro is located at 228 Gold Ave. SW in Albuquerque. 505.314.1111.

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The best in world, folk & eclectic music

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JAn 27 South Broadway Cultural Center Free ConCerts Todd & The Fox

Sat. Dec. 8 @ 12 pm • Juan Tabo Library Sat. Dec. 8 @ 4 pm • South Valley Library

The Andreas Kapsalis & Goran Ivanovic Guitar Duo Tues. Jan. 22 @ 12 pm • Erna Fergusson Library Wed. Jan. 23 @ 12 pm • South Broadway Library

Tickets: Hold My Ticket (112 2nd St SW), 505-886-1251 and ampconcerts.org, 505-232-9868

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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HOLIDAYSpirit story by JAMES SELBY

we raise a toast to the boutique family producers of generational craft and artistry. A fine single-malt Scotch, small batch Bourbon, Cognac or liqueur can be a unique and felicitous gesture for the adult on your list.

art of the thought that goes into selecting a Scotch for someone is discerning their preference of style and region. So you worm it out of them: “I’m curious, what is it you like about Scotch?” They like it smoky, peaty, delicate or floral?

Then go to your favorite independent emporium, because there you will find someone who can offer guidance. (Things about Scotland that take a long time to master: Scotch and golf.) There are five (some argue six) regions in Scotland, each with a unique terroir and profile determined by the type of still, weather, peat (dried organic matter burned to smoke barley), water, aging and wood. Springbank, in the Campbeltown district, is the oldest family-run distillery in the country. Their ten-year single malt ($70), a complex introductory style, signals smoke with essences of cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. They also do a 15-year ($110), aged in old sherry casks. Peaty, suggestive of chocolate, toffee and raisin, it is an ideal dram for after dinner with a cigar. The region of Islay (pronounced “eye-lay”) is known for its smoky style. Bruichladdich (pronounced “brook-laddie) makes Port Charlotte eight-year, a pistol-packin’ peat version ($120) and, uniquely, an organic Scotch, made without peat ($85).

P

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photo: Roddy Mackay www.bruichladdich.com

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ix up the classic seasonal gifts (ties, books, socks) with something one rarely buys for oneself, comes in a range of prices and is the gift that keeps on giving glad tidings for months: a bottle of fine spirit. During the holidays, why what should appear, but a blitzen of sex-appealing ad campaigns featuring famous labels of the liquor industry, and the dyed-in-the-wool partakers may be happy with a ubiquitous bottle under the tree. For the free-spirited, though,

www.remymartin.com

www.louis-xiii.com

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n the 1980s in New York, there was an urban restaurant legend: If a customer bought the last shot of Remy Martin Louis XIII Cognac, they would get to take home the empty Baccarat crystal decanter. Wrong.The bartender got it. (I used to keep maple syrup in mine.) The ultra prestige of the mythical Cognac, a recipe blended from hundreds of casks, some a century old, comes with a matching price tag, upwards of $2500. (The value of a Cognac is partly proportional to the time it has aged in casks.) Thankfully, there are affordable artisanal labels of remarkable quality, such as Pierre Ferrand, established in 1702. Their ten-year Amber ($50) is lightly aromatic, with easy tannins and aromas of flowers and oranges. Family-owned since the early twentieth century, Delamain produces less in a year than some big distillers make in a day; their standard bearer, Pale Dry XO ($75), has hints of honey and citrus, and their Très Vénérable ($225), aged on average 60 years, has few rivals for finesse, offering citrus peel, leather and pear sugar.

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rmagnac, from the Gascony region of France, where brandy was first distilled, is the robust sipping cousin of Cognac. (All Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac. Cognac is a proprietary region, and only brandy from there may use the name.) Armagnac, for the most part, comes from small producers. You can find superb examples for the same price of a famously named, industrially produced Cognac, with the added advantage of health benefits. (Gascony has some of the world’s lowest rates of cardiovascular disease.) Chateau de Pellehaut makes Armagnacs of tremendous quality, noted for a floral, peppermint profile, starting at $50. Darozze, the first family of Armagnac, does no distilling. Rather, they are conservators, cellaring rare casks of vintage eau-de-vie sourced throughout the region, some dating to the early 20th century and bottled on demand ($100 and up, and up again). Recently, they’ve begun offering younger, less expensive blends, or “assembled” brandies ($75).

I

talian grappas (distilled skins, pulp, seeds and stems left over from winemaking) are often bottled in the most exquisite and delicate hand-blown bottles, perhaps as a way of assuaging their raw power. Sipped after dinner as a digestif, they are aromatic and bold.

Jacopo Poli Sarpa di Poli ($55), a distillate of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, is rustic and scented of geranium.

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equila is mother’s milk to New Mexico, and because our market is a healthy one, a goodly number of brands are distributed here. Al and Laurie Lucero, owners of Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen in Santa Fe, serve a lot of margaritas. Al literally wrote the book on the cocktail and the tequilas that go in them (The Great Margarita Book, $15.95). When asked for his best shot, Al answered, “That would be Paradiso by El Tesoro ($140). The family went to France and studied Cognac blending. They discovered the importance of oak aging, and asked a master blender from Cognac to come to Mexico and blend three vintages, which became Paradiso. In addition, they put

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it up in a simple but elegant bottle, so you’re paying for the tequila and not the bottle.” The cult brand Chamucos is named for the winged boogeyman running amok on the label. Their insanely sophisticated Reposado ($60), in its hand-blown bottle, is wellbalanced, with aromatics of pepper and mint.

U

ntil the recent boon in craft spirits in the United States, bourbon and rye have taken a back seat to Scotch. Buffalo Trace Distillery puts out a wide range of premium smallbatch and single-barrel whiskies under one roof. Their flagship, Black Maple Hill bourbon ($30), blended from several contracted “batches,” is wonderfully balanced, showing butterscotch and stewed cherry. A. H. Hirsch Small Batch Reserve ($40) has a lineage dating to Kentucky’s pre-statehood. Hirsch smoothly coats the palate with pastry shop flavors of prune, raspberry and vanilla.

Their aged 100% Canadian Rye Whiskey ($65) is light and silky.

I

f looking for something less bracing than a 50 proof spirit, there are gentler options. (Proof is twice the percentage of alcohol by volume; an 80 proof spirit contains 40% alcohol.)

Sweet and wholesome flavors pour from a bottle of Trimbach Liqueur de Framboise (25 proof, $30), a fruit liqueur from Alsace, distilled from fresh raspberries. Sip or splash into a glass of Champagne. Northwest cherries are crushed and fermented, with delicacy and flavor, into Kirschwasser by Clear Creek Distillery in Oregon. Sometimes the orchard fruit itself comes in the bottle.

Distillers tie a bottle to a branch when the blossom falls off, so the fruit is captured inside, like a genie, and later filled with eau-devie. F. Meyer, Alsace Poire (Pear) William Brandy ($110).

Clear Creek Distillery

Be forewarned, here contained is a cautionary tale, with a recipe for a goose chase, particularly if the bottle you seek is handcrafted and small production. With the exception of tequila, New Mexico is low or overlooked on many allocation lists ... rather like being a birder and waiting for a sighting of a scarce Ash-throated Flycatcher (or so I’m told), which may never appear. But what else might? If, over the holiday season, it puts you in conversation with enthusiasts at your favorite bars and independent stores where information and knowledge can be shared, you will find a gift of spirit. Happy Holidays!

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Come to Las Cosas for a demo of this amazing machine.

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house of ancestors ANTIQUES & INTERIORS

Antique Furnishings, Folk Art, Ceramics & Devotional Art from All of the Americas 307 Pino Road, Santa Fe Directly behind Kaune’s Market on Old Santa Fe Trail

505.490.2653 houseofancestors @ gmail.com Monday–Saturday 10:30 – 5:30 pm or By Appointment

SHOP LOCAL

This holiday season, Local Flavor reminds you to

and have a safe & happy New Year!

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We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer

Presently Stocking:

Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

Over 3500 Wines

Competitive Prices • Largest Selections Friendly Staff • Something for every Taste

Santa Olive Oil 800 BeerFe Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 220 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas

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505.455.2219

kokoman@cybermesa.com Hwy 84/285 • Pojoaque 12 miles North of Santa Fe

Presently Stocking: Over 3500 Wines 900 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 230 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas 136 Types of Rum

505.455.2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com Hwy 84/285 • 34 Cities of Gold Rd., Pojoaque 87506 12 easy miles due North of Santa Fe

Taos

Española

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Pojoaque Exit #502

Award Winning Handcrafted Spirits Distilled in Santa Fe

Bring the Spirit of Santa Fe home for the Holidays Tours & Tastings call 505-467-8892 www.santafespirits.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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An indoor garden gives you local flavor year round!

Happy Holidays! from

Special Holiday Menu Lunch & Dinner Wine List & Cocktails 12 Beers on Tap Great Live Music Every weekend 1051 San Mateo Blvd SE ABQ • 505-255-3677 • AHLgrows.com

Special exhibit at the Madrid Old Coal Town Museum

TOWN OF LIGHTS & TOYLAND Inside the Engine House Theatre/Includes Museum

sat/su n 11-6p m $5/3

Madrid was famous nationwide for its Christmas Lights & Toyland (1922-1941) it was so amazing that it even inspired Walt Disney!

MON 31

New Years Eve Special Menu at the Mine Shaft Tavern STEAK / SEAFOOD & PASTA SERVED 5-10pm 7-CLOSE $10 COVER RSVP 505-473-0743 Jan 2013

Sat, 5th

Paula Nelson Band! 7pm $10 2846 Hwy 14 Madrid

505-473-0743

Been to Madrid at Christmas lately?

Take the perfect day trip down the Turquoise Trail 20 min. from Santa Fe and 45 min. from Albuquerque on Hwy. 14

Dazzling old time light display, great live music and restaurants, 30 unique art galleries, eclectic shopping, lodging, sculpture, native american and contemporary jewelry, coal town museum and more.

30th ANNUAL OPEN HOUSE • Galleries and shops open daily • Open late on Saturday nights • Scavenger hunt every Saturday www.visitmadridnm.com

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www.DIVASantaFe.com 125 e place ave suite 78 sena plaza (located downtown) 982-6816

www.TheMineShaftTavern.com

d i r d a M A Christmas story by GAIL SNYDER

I

n December of 1941, Jim Marshall, a staff writer for Collier’s magazine, found himself part of a surprisingly vast pilgrimage of cars wending their way along the winding little two-lane road between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Outside, it was pitch black. Surely, he must have thought, not all of these cars could be headed the same place.

Being from Back East, he may have been more than a little leery of the assignment. “Go cover some tiny, obscure coal town?” he could have said to himself. “Chockfull of handmade Christmas pageant scenes and Mother Goose characters, by miners?” Who knows what he’d pictured—crude, hammer-fisted tableaux, maybe, some cornball schlock that only a sap would fall for. But, as the snaking cars ahead of his and behind would have begun their last descent, spilling into the valley below, the road would have curved and there, suddenly— the little village of Madrid.

“In a grim canyon in northern New Mexico,” he later began his article, “there is a blaze of light.” He went on to describe the eerily- illuminated steep hillsides above the town, with a progression of larger-than-life nativity scenes and, high on a peak, a towering 33foot figure of the adult Jesus.

There were huge blindingly-lit figures of shepherds looming over their flocks by night, arms outflung and expressions of astonishment on their faces as giant angels swooped down, disappeared in darkness, swooped again into the light to strains of “Hark, the Herald Angels Sing” trebling from their midst. Inside a shadowy thatched-roof adobe stable, robed figures gathered around a glowing manger as, outside, a live donkey and sheep looked on. And, above the babe’s birth town, a 14-foot high Star of Bethlehem throbbed its brilliant glory, dwarfing the waning moon. Twelve scenes in all, Marshall wrote incredulously, each one blindingly spot-lit, the wavering shadows making each figure appear to move and breathe.

Down in the town itself, small lighted Christmas trees, their decorations made by hand, stood before each of the houses along Main Street and tucked away throughout the valley. Multiple strands of garland wove back and forth overhead, welcome signs beckoned visitors forth; pillars of light showed the way. Down by the ballpark stood a behemoth Christmas tree, 50-feet tall, with 25 live trees as its branches, shimmering under so much illumination the tree seemed to be made of liquid light. Laid out beneath it, a miniature train wove its way along tracks carrying children through Toyland, a homemade fairytale village all their own.

Cut-out figures of every nursery rhyme character lived there, most of them mechanized. Jack and Jill tumbled down a hill, Humpty Dumpty fell off the wall, the cow jumped over the moon as the little dog laughed to see such sport and the dish ran away with the spoon. Little Red Riding Hood knocked at Grandma’s door as the wolf, disguised, snickered beneath the covers. Jack sat atop his beanstalk, the Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe peeked out her window; the Three Little Pigs cowered as the Big Bad Wolf huffed and puffed. Presiding over all, Little Boy Blue, high above, blew from his horn visible notes of glad tidings and joy.

Calling Madrid “the setting for one of America’s most unusual Christmas festivals,” Marshall reported that “the fiesta lasts from early in December until after New Year’s Day. More than 100,000 visitors go up into the mountain canyon to take part.” Everything is free, he marveled; it’s all “just a getting together of the people in the hills and the people of the cities to renew the spirit of Christmas.”

How did such a wonderland come to be—and in a coal town, of all places?

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d i r d a M Christmas A It started out modestly. Then, several acclaimed artists from Santa Fe got involved, including Pierre Menager, formerly of Walt Disney Studios, who envisioned the gigantic outdoor cathedral setting for the dioramas and hand-painted each figure and backdrop on canvas. These were affixed to wooden outlines by teams of miners who worked out each one’s mechanization logistics and built the sets. Before site constructions could begin, the miners had to build miles of roads over the rocky, treacherous terrain. It took more than 200 miners to string 20-plus miles of electric wire for the 41,000 bulbs and 1,500 search- and spot-lights. Illuminating the City of Bethlehem, 75 feet long and 18 feet high, reportedly challenged the miners’ ingenuity—but they did it. To cover costs, each miner was required to pay 75 cents in monthly dues to the Employees’ Club; each was also required to do the construction work in their off time.

The coal-powered electricity was supplied by the coal company.

Every year, Madrid’s elaborate Christmas card to the world outdid the previous year’s. Soon, TWA pilot Captain Theodore Moffitt was rerouting his plane to show his transcontinental night passengers the spectacular light show from the air. Walt Disney came out to Madrid a number of times with Menager and employee Walter Lanz (the voice of Woody Woodpecker). Toyland in particular deeply inspired Disney; it was, in fact, the impetus for his later creation, Disneyland. And, in 1940, New Mexico Governor John Miles came out to Madrid on Christmas Eve to throw the main switch.

Ironically, the year Marshall documented The Town of Lights for Collier’s turned out to be Madrid’s last Christmas display. Once the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, wartime restrictions forbade such spectacles. Most miners quit their jobs to enlist, and, when the company shut down for good, those remaining, who owned nothing but their personal belongings, had to pack them and go, leaving only ghosts of Christmases past in the little company town.

“My mom grew up in Logan, near Tucumcari,” says Lilly Whiteswan, one of the early counter-culture group of pioneers, iconoclasts, artists and adventurers who rented or bought mining shacks and began repopulating Madrid in the early ‘70s. “She remembered her family used to pile into the car and drive to Madrid, back in the ‘30s, that must’ve been, to see the Christmas lights. I saw all the old pictures when I got here. And people started finding stuff, like the big Joseph and Mary figures, left on the hill. Those were the first things that went back up. We had 15 people originally, but eight moved out immediately. Some of ‘em I had to curse so they’d leave,” she jokes.

“You looked at me when you said that!” interrupts Sky Fabin, another from that early time, and they both laugh. Sky found a cruciform lying on the ground when he first got here; it took him a month to rebuild it, using red wood so it would weather better outside.

“Then we started making our own displays, lighting our houses and getting the Christmas spirit,” Lilly continues. “It all skyrocketed—we’d have contests to see who could do their house best, and Bob Selby always won. Raising kids here, setting up a school in the old church, having town meetings triggered us to really and truly make our own history, the most perfect town we could think of, from scratch. People are drawn here who want community; the ones who don’t eventually don’t stay.” She remembers the early parades down Main Street, the sock hops they created together, staying up all night to record the music. “And then, the next day, getting all dressed up in our slip ensembles, and I had feathers in my hair,”

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she continues. “Michael Pratt, another of us, had been the clothes designer for Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix, so we got to wear Janis’s clothes!”

Over the years, as some 300 or so Madrid residents have joined Lilly, Sky and the handful of others remaining from those early times, the spirit continues skyrocketing. 2012 marks the 30th anniversary of Madrid Christmas celebrations, in remembrance of the miners’ Town of Lights. For those coming to see for themselves, expect a magical, outof-time experience. As dusk settles in, lights blaze and twinkle throughout this valley village, and here and there the original miners’ animal cutouts wave you in. Galleries, restaurants and shops stay open late on weekends; the Old Coal Town Museum features a special new exhibit in the Engine House Theater celebrating the Town of Lights and Toyland. Kicking it all off is the December 1st Christmas parade, featuring bagpipers the Santa Fe Order of the Thistle Pipes, whimsical homemade floats, kids on bikes, llamas, dogs, horses and a yak. Santa and Mrs. Claus will be here every weekend, along with a mule-drawn flatbed with benches seating ten.

Sky still has his cruciform proudly displayed above his rooftop. Matt and Heather French, whose house is up the hill where the town of Bethlehem used to be, made a replica of the Star of Bethlehem and the moon, based on the original, which they resurrect every year.

A group of locals, inspired by Madroids Tracy Ragan and partner, Steve Taylor, are planning a display down in the ballpark in the spirit of Toyland.

However Dickensian the miners’ lives may or may not have been the rest of the year, for that one long glorious month, they played ingeniously with the quality of shadow and light in this sheltered little valley, embracing the darkness of the world, holding it, illuminating it.

The best synchronicities can’t be orchestrated.

Today, the only intact figure left in Toyland is Little Boy Blue. There, atop his 45-foot pole, he still reigns, outlined in lights courtesy of Tracy and Steve.

Throughout the long winter’s nights, he goes on playing his heart out.

The Madrid Christmas and Open House Season begins Saturday, December 1st with the Christmas Parade at 4:00 pm. Galleries and shops will be open till 8:00 pm Saturday and Sunday nights through Christmas. To get to Madrid: From Santa Fe, take Cerrillos Road heading south, away from town. Cerrillos turns into Highway 14; follow that to Madrid. From Albuquerque, take I-40 East, get off at the Turquoise Trail exit, turn left for Highway 14 and follow that to Madrid.

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Winter story by

Camping

GORDON BUNKER

“Let’s go winter camping!” Countless great adventures have commenced with these innocent words. Winter camping can mean “check the pantry in the motor home for rum and cinnamon sticks, and head south for the weekend.” Or it can mean “put your gear in your pack, lash on the snowshoes and head for the mountains.”

There are, of course, many in-betweens.

While I am a seasoned (as opposed to pickled) camper, and my escapades include spending a night in a tent at six below, it’s been years since my winter gear has seen the light of day. Getting some expert advice never hurts, so I consult with a few top outdoors-people.

Dan McCarthy’s Santa Fe Mountain Sports is a ski, snowboard and bike shop, and Dan knows winter clothing. “The challenge is to ventilate the moisture out and keep the warmth in,” he says. “You want to layer your clothing, and there are different materials for keeping warm during exertion or at rest.” For example, “if you wear a down jacket while exerting yourself, you’ll sweat to death.” Somehow that just wouldn’t be right.

Where do you start? “Good base layers next to the skin are synthetic or wool,” says Dan. “Not cotton, which holds moisture. Next, for the mid-layer, fleece is a good choice.” Choosing what clothing to wear is a balancing act that takes into account conditions and level of activity.

For wind protection, Dan suggests, “Add an outer shell with or without insulation. A variety of laminated or coated fabrics let water vapor out while keeping water from getting in. Keep clothing to just what you need to stay warm,” continues Dan. “When you stop, cool off, then add insulation. Down is the best, but only when dry. Wet it’s useless.”

I do a mental checklist. Polypro longies and shirt, check. Fleece sweater, check. Insulated shell jacket with hood, hat, gloves, mitts, liner socks, heavy socks, all check. For loitering around the campsite, the Michelin Man will have nothing on me. And Dan’s parting words are wise: “Keeping hydrated is extremely important. Just because you’re not hot doesn’t mean you’re not losing moisture.”

The first advice Kim Van Deman, Manager of Taos Mountain Outfitters, offers is, “Bring a warm sleeping bag!” True, there’s not much worse than being cold all night. (I know from experience.) “Bags are rated for the lowest temperature they’re comfortable at, but everyone’s thermostat is different. Take this into account.” And Kim’s perspective on insulation is in keeping with Dan’s. “Synthetics do stay warm when wet, but that’s not so much of an issue unless you’re in the Pacific Northwest. Down packs the smallest,” which is a big plus. “Bags come with left or right zippers, so two can be zipped together.” (Don’t come a-knockin’ when this tent’s a-rockin’!)

Ash Campbell is part of the crew at REI Santa Fe. Considering the fact that he was running around in the woods before I was born and that he is from New Hampshire, a place that’ll teach you about cold, I listen. “Winter camping is much more of a mental activity than summer camping,” he says, “and you must make substantial use of snow, because there’s so much of it.” I melt snow for drinking water; Ash uses it to build shelters. And for him, it is an art form.

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Ash and friends have put together a winter camping field guide, which examines topics related to camping in the cold, including snow shelters. It is available at no cost from www.lamountaineers.org, in the download section (pull down the “membership” tab to find it). A few nuggets from the guide: “Know what you’re getting into and be prepared for it; be ultra-conservative … Fatten up for several days before departure.” (I like this guy!) And “… maintain a warm and positive mindset,” which is so very important in all endeavors. Ash will be teaching REI’s winter camping clinic at the store in January and an independent hands-on snow shelter–building experience afterwards.

So let’s go winter camping!

The stove fires, the tent is shipshape, the sleeping bag zippers zip, the head light lights, and I have extra batteries. Imagine launching a space shuttle. The morning of my departure, after eating a big breakfast, I stuff everything in my pack and heft it onto my shoulders. It feels like it weighs 100 pounds. In reality it’s only about 40. Next, it’s lunch at the Backstreet Bistro: a grilled

chicken breast sandwich, please, with a side of potato salad. I recall the adage, “The best place to carry your food is inside you.” More inside means less on your shoulders. Satiated, I head for the Santa Fe Ski Basin to take the Winsor Trail to a little-known shortcut to a campsite near Rio Nambe. We in New Mexico are blessed with an abundance of public lands just waiting to be explored.

The trailhead elevation is about 10,300 feet, and the trail starts with a steep ascent. Without any warm-up, and carrying twice what I’m used to, there’s some huffing and puffing. Nevertheless, slowly hiking up hill becomes a meditation. I get in a groove, step after step. Day hikers look at me and smile, maybe with admiration or maybe with concern … concern that I need psychiatric care.

The forest is beautiful and still. Light reflecting from fresh powder is luminous. The snow crunches and squeaks under my boots. It’s cold. I find the shortcut and now am off-trail. The peacefulness is heightened by winter; the stresses of life drift away. At the campsite among fir and spruce, near a massive outcrop of granite, I pitch the tent, fire the stove and make Earl Grey tea. The sun dips behind Raven’s Ridge, and the temp drops like a stone. Wrapping my hands around the hot cup is a relief; sipping the hot tea floods me with warmth.

Exploring my surroundings, I find rabbit and squirrel tracks in the snow.

A chickadee putters overhead and chirps. It pauses on a branch. I note its glassy black bead of an eye, the markings on its head. Amazing, this tiny creature so well-adapted to the elements.

The light fades, and the temp plummets. With the exception of my breathing and crunching footsteps, there is no sound. There is no movement of air. The silence is magical. I get into the sleeping bag and work on my notes. Because a pen might freeze, I brought a pencil. The sound of the buttery lead going down on paper is soothing. Notes done, I turn off my

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headlamp and peek outside. The sky is a blaze of stars. I cinch the cord around the hood of the bag, leaving just a small opening to breathe through. I am comfortable and happy and at peace. I sleep a deep sleep.

In the first grey light of dawn, the outside temp is 19 degrees. Inside the bag it’s 72, so it’s an easy decision to snooze. Finally nature calls, so on go the frigid clothes and boots, and I hop out of the tent. And keep moving! I fire the stove, its raspy voice reassuring, and I melt snow for tea. Blessed hot tea! Hungry for carbs and fats, I devour flat bread slathered with almond butter. The first light spreads across Santa Fe Baldy. It’s early morning, and I’m here. The sun rises over Lake Peak, and the picture changes entirely with warmth. I find a spot fully in the sun and stand, feeling it soak into me. Life would be nothing if not for contrast. Oh, sun…

I break camp and load the pack. It’s ready for me.

Am I ready for it? I hoist it onto my shoulders, and, remarkably, it feels good. Hiking out, I notice little footprints crossing mine, and the exertion warms me head to toe. It’s a new day, the air is fresh, and I feel great. This is winter camping.

When I get home, a hot shower feels wonderful.

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r! tte e b e l l litt ll fee a ’ ine ou W ...Y

story by

ERIN BROOKS

photos courtesy of TRIMBACH

Every job has its own benefits and drawbacks, but when it comes to being a sommelier, the perks are especially glamorous. Imagine, for example, being behind the scenes during a long day of wine seminars at the 22nd annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. The drawback is it’s your job to get more than a thousand wine glasses polished in preparation for the day’s events. The perk is that you get to taste all the wines, and, when the workday is over, you don’t have to go home to frozen pizza. Instead, you find yourself at a table seated next to Jean Trimbach, a member of the family that owns Trimbach Estate, one of the leading producers in Alsace, France.

Estate

Trimbach A

t the end of the day, we are farmers. We are not growing potatoes, but still we are farmers, and we depend on Mother Nature. We have to be extremely kind with Mother Nature, because, as you know, if it doesn’t happen in the vineyards, it will never happen in the cellar. — Jean Trimbach

That’s what happened to me—lucky me! Mr. Trimbach (I’ll refer to him as Jean, so as not to confuse the man and the estate) poured taste after taste for me from an ice bucket filled with tall, slender green bottles.

The first wine had flavors of lemongrass, flowers and spices, with a racy minerality and acidity. The next wine had a unique smoky complexity, opulent texture and a beautiful amber color. Another smelled so rich you’d think it was dessert in a glass: honey, exotic fruit and overripe pineapple.

Jean had just treated me to some of France’s very finest white wines, right here in Santa Fe, at Il Piatto.

For a wine geek, this is akin to meeting a popular singer or TV actor while walking in your hometown. Trimbach wines are well known throughout the world and are considered to be some of the highest quality, most complex and collectible wines, able to age in the cellar for decades. Jean’s visit to town, along with the presence of other illustrious names in the food and wine world, is a nod to the caliber of Santa Fe’s culinary scene. With the help of our talented sommeliers, chefs and our unique Wine & Chile Fiesta, Santa Fe is becoming a more serious place for food and wine.

If you’re not quite as geeky as me, you may wonder what makes Alsatian wines, in particular those made

by Trimbach Estate, so special. Alsace is a winemaking region in northeast France right across the border from Germany—in fact, this region fluctuated between German and French ownership for centuries. Vineyards

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here sit at the foot of the Vosges mountain range, which protect the vines from wind and rain and make Alsace France’s driest region. Grapes here are able to become very ripe, and this results in the success of several grape varieties as well as an array of different styles of wine. The four grapes that perform best here are Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Muscat.

Don’t let these varietals scare you away: most of the wine made in Alsace is dry, and only wines made in the styles of Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles have any sweetness, although once you taste them you’ll never want to drink anything else with dessert!

The Trimbach Estate has been around since 1626. Winemaking techniques have been passed down from generation to generation, as well as prime vineyard land. The estate owns grand cru vineyard sites, including the very famous Clos Ste. Hune, which has been in the family for more than 200 years. The estate is dedicated to sustainable wine growing and attention to the soil, as well as low yields, which is believed to produce higher-quality grapes and wine. Trimbach also has a dedication to nature, which Jean says is the true winemaker.

“We do nothing. It’s Mother Nature that decides. At the end of the day, we are farmers. We are not growing potatoes, but still we are farmers, and we depend on Mother Nature. We have to be extremely kind with Mother Nature, because, as you know, if it doesn’t happen in the vineyards, it will never happen in the cellar.”

Frédéric Emile, Jean’s great-grandfather, was the first person in the family to promote Alsatian wines outside the region. In 1898 he entered the firm’s wines in an international wine show in Brussels, and the estate became famous after the wines were awarded the highest honors. Jean continues the tradition by traveling the world in order to teach people about Alsatian wines and carry the Trimbach name forward. (Jean’s brother, Pierre, is the winemaker and also oversees the care of the vineyards.) “I’m traveling the world,” Jean says in a charming French accent when I ask about his role in the family firm. “Alsace as a region exports only 25% of its production. We export 90% of our production.”

Like a proud father, he explains what it’s like to bear the responsibility of history and tradition. In order to maintain the firm’s high reputation, there is no other option but to make really, really good wine. “Every year we have to come out with great wine. It’s like a three Michelin star restaurant. It has to perform extremely well, lunch and dinner, lunch and dinner, all the time. So for us, it’s the same. Every vintage has to be impeccable.”

That the firm is succeeding in its mission to maintain the quality of the wines while promoting them—and Alsatian wines in general—around the world is illustrated by the quality of the restaurants where you’ll find Trimbach wines on the list. Proud of his family firm’s achievements, Jean says, “We are the only Alsace winery supplying all 26 three Michelin star restaurants in France. Likewise, we are in all the three Michelin star restaurants in New York: Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, Daniel, Eleven Madison Park and so on.”

The fact that so many restaurants and wine shops in Santa Fe carry Trimbach wines speaks to the high caliber of our culinary scene. Geronimo, Compound and Coyote Café have Trimbach wines on their lists, and Bistro 315 serves Trimbach Pinot Blanc by the glass. The wines are available at Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits, Kelly Liquor Barn and Kokoman Fine Wine & Liquor, a short drive away in Pojoaque. Sommeliers in Santa Fe recognize the high quality of the wines, and our chefs recognize the great food pairing potential of Alsatian Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer.

The response from Santa Fe’s culinary community to Trimbach wines has been more than positive. While in Santa Fe during this year’s Wine & Chile Fiesta, Jean took part in a luncheon hosted by Coyote Café with Dakota Weiss, executive chef at the W Hotel in Los Angeles, who prepared a four-course meal to pair with Trimbach wines. Jean was impressed with the quality of the food and enthusiastic about how well the wines were

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received. He exclaimed, “People were really impressed and amazed by the quality of the food, the quality of the wine, the beautiful pairing, and many, many people asked, ‘wow, we didn’t know these wines before, where can we buy them?’ We have to let people taste the wines, spread the gospel!”

Tasting is indeed the best way to spread the gospel of Trimbach wines and Alsace wines in general, and now is the perfect time to put your olfactory senses to work. The holidays offer a great range of food to pair with the many varietals and styles of wine produced in Alsace. Gewürztraminer’s powerful tropical fruit and floral aromas and flavors can stand up to spicy food. Riesling is a great complement to food that’s rich; its fresh, bright fruit flavors and high acid can counter rich butter sauces or harmonize with fruit sauces. Pinot Gris, which can be neutral and somewhat unexciting when grown in other parts of the world, here produces wine with a unique smoky character, perfect for pairing with barbecue or grilled seafood. And if you want something to drink with dessert, don’t look any further than a Trimbach Sélection de Grains Nobles, a rare sweet wine full of rich honey and orange marmalade flavors.

So what does Jean think of the caliber of Santa Fe’s culinary scene? He is impressed, saying, “I think the level of food here is quite high, and this is why the Wine & Chile Fiesta is known as well. And the wine lists, there are many, many good wine lists around.”

Not to mention Santa Fe’s warm, sunny climate and proximity to the mountains— reminiscent of Alsace. Jean says warmly, “I could live here. The mountain is very close, the air seems to be very pure. And as I said, the restaurant scene seems to be impeccable. And so that suits me very well.”

To learn more about Trimbach Estate, go to www.maison-trimbach.com/gb/trimbach-estate.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

59

Los Ranchos de Albuquerque Agriculture, Art & Ambiance

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e n i s i u C d l r o W New falling in love with chocolate

A

nyone who has spent any time at all in the Land of Enchantment knows that New Mexican food is sui generis. It fuses Mexican, Spanish, and Native traditions, and the resulting hybrid is truly its own animal.

Starting December 9, Santa Fe’s Museum of International Folk Art is hosting an exhibit chronicling the evolution of this unique beast. New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más charts the collision of Old World and New World ingredients and the culinary legacy created by that mestizaje, or mixing.

It began in 1598, when Juan de Oñate’s expedition settled in the fertile farmland at the confluence of the Chama and Rio Grande rivers. “The land would really dictate what would become a part of our regular diet,” says Nicolasa Chávez, the museum’s Curator of Spanish Colonial and Contemporary Hispano/Latino Collections. “During the colonial period there was an instant blending, but some things took a while to catch on. Eventually, our regional cuisine became specific, as New Mexican cuisine.”

To illustrate, Chávez cites that quintessential New Mexican dish, pork and red chile tamales. Although tamales have long been a culinary fixture throughout Central and South America, this particular version is “just pure New Mexico.” Pork was not at all familiar to people in the Americas, who were more likely to eat rodents (think guinea pigs in Peru). According to Chávez, pigs were brought over from the Old World, as were cattle, sheep and goats.

Chiles, however, were another story. “Archaeological evidence suggests that chiles were up this far in New Mexico prior to the Spanish,” she says. “They settled in 1598, and we know there were chiles here in 1599. They did become part of the diet right away. Bell peppers, all sorts of peppers, do well in New Mexico,” she adds. “You go to Spain today, [and] green chile the way we do it does not exist over there.

It’s a very foreign flavor to them.”

In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, New Mexico had longer, colder, wetter winters than we do now. As a result, the items constituting a big part of the diet were things that could be easily stored. “You had to dry your corn and beans to get you through the winter,” says Chávez.

At the same time, food was being traded up the Camino Reál, and orders were placed for supplies from the Spanish homeland: peaches, quinces, lavender, rosemary, onions, garlic, wheat, spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, grapes and wine.

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At first, the Spanish colonists were drawn to chocolate for medicinal purposes, and there was a lot of experimentation. It was, says Chávez, a “really thick, creamy, rich, thick substantial drink. It was so substantial that it was used as a food source. De Vargas' men were given chocolate bars for daily rations.” s t o r y b y E V E T O L PA photos by KITTY LEAKEN

These last two played a substantial role in the Spanish settlements.

Wine production came to Chile and Argentina in 1530. Though grapes didn’t do well in hotter areas, like the southern part of Mexico, New Mexico’s temperatures and altitudes provided ideal conditions for the crop, and there is evidence of winemaking in the southern part of the state, near Socorro, dating to 1629. “New Mexico was the earliest wine region in the U.S.,” says Chávez. “All the settling families were required to bring plants over and grow these things.” The Spanish were establishing missions and needed wine for sacramental purposes, and the area wineries were extremely productive—so much so that, at one point, the crown tired to prohibit winemaking because it was endangering exports from Spain.

By the 19th century, New Mexico was the fifth largest wine producer in the United States. But flooding, Prohibition and rising competition from vineyards outside of the state contributed to a period of dormancy.

There was, however, a resurgence in 1970s, and wineries have really taken off in the past 20 years. “It’s taken them a long time to get the recognition they deserve,” says Chávez, adding that “a fun aspect of the exhibit was for me was being able to talk with Henry Street of Ponderosa Winery,” which is located just south of Jemez Springs and is lending 19th century winemaking paraphernalia to the museum.

As indispensable as wine was to the colonists, there was one beverage that was even more central to everyday life: chocolate. “It was our numberone drink, and it was unique to New Mexico,” says Chávez.

Chocolate’s history stretches back even farther than previously thought: “When the Spanish came into Americas, chocolate beans were used as currency.” The trade route up the Rio Grande predated the Spanish settlers, and chocolate existed as far north as New Mexico when they arrived. UNM Professor of Anthropology Patricia Crown conducted studies at Pueblo Bonito, near Chaco Canyon, that found traces of

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63

ld r o NewCW uisine theobroma (the botanical name for chocolate) in jars similar in shape to cylindrical Mayan chocolate jars.

“When it was first encountered it was a very bitter drink,” Chávez continues. “No milk or sugar, no spices. It took a while for people to like it.” At first, the Spanish colonists were drawn to chocolate for medicinal purposes, and there was a lot of experimentation. It was, says Chávez, a “really thick, creamy, rich, thick substantial drink. It was so substantial that it was used as a food source. De Vargas’ men were given chocolate bars for daily rations.”

Those bars weren’t for eating, though. Instead they were melted into a liquid. Originally, New World hot chocolate was made with water (and sometimes a little honey from the Yucatán), but the Spanish made it their own by adding milk and spices from the Manila Galleons and other trade routes.

“Sugar was used as a spice,” explains Chávez. “It was used the same way as nutmeg or cinnamon,” that is to say, just a dash for flavor.

Eventually, chocolate became a staple beverage, akin to what coffee is for us now. “In New Mexico in the colonial period, you had chocolate every day,” says Chávez. Homes had sitting areas called estrados, and it was here that residents would partake of their daily snack, known as merienda, which was scheduled in between siesta and dinner. Chocolate was served along with treats such as sweet breads or galletas (cookies). La merienda was, says Chávez, “a time to converse and visit. It sounds so civilized!” (Yerba mate, also a big component of the exhibit, is the South American equivalent to chocolate; both drinks played similar roles in Spanish Colonial life spiritually, ceremonially, medicinally and ritualistically.)

Chocolate was brought back to Spain, and while it was at first “a totally foreign substance to Europeans,” it eventually caught on and was served at court in the southern parts of the continent. “A lot of those recipes still exist,” says Chávez, noting that Santa Fe’s chocolate house, Kakawa, creates historically accurate chocolate elixirs—and that she especially loves their Marie Antoinette recipe, with its evocative hint of orange flower.

The tradition of chocolate drinking is all but unrecognizable to present day New Mexicans, but there are some traditional recipes that endure. “My family goes back to 1598,” says Chávez. “and we’ve eaten New Mexican food all that time.” Posole, for example, is very old and likely not to have changed much. “Another recipe of my great-grandmother was the empanadita,” which is similar to the European meat pie. The New Mexican variety historically was—and still is— made with minced beef tongue, raisins and cinnamon.

Chávez’s own taste, however, is much more modern. “For me,” she says with a smile, “the ultimate New Mexican food is green chile cheeseburgers.”

New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más runs from December 9, 2012, to January 5, 2014. The Museum of International Folk Art is located on Museum Hill, Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, in Santa Fe. www.internationalfolkart.org.

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2013

Who: Volunteer Chefs What: St. Elizabeth

Shelter’s Resource Center

Where: Santa Fe

Resource and Opportunity Center (SF ROC) When: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday or Friday Why: Join in preparing (Monday & Thursday) and serving (Tuesday & Friday) nutritious and satisfying meals to more than 100 hungry and appreciative people.

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You, too, can volunteer to join our fabulous lunch team. Just call Rosario at 982-6611 x108 or email at volunteer@steshelter.org.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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Thursday, March 7th, 2013 at The Inn and Spa at Loretto

Between the extra errands & engagements of the Holiday season, it’s all too easy to become run down...

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Calling all Sponsors

If you’re a business or individual and are interested in becoming a sponsor, we have many levels to choose from. If you simply wish to attend this Gala, the tickets are $50.00 each and will go on sale on 1/15/13. Please call us at 505-923-2513 for more information or visit www.NMGirlScouts.org.

2013 Sponsors so far:

Proudly massaging Santa Feans for 18 years Call 505-424-7645 Andrea Schnietz, L.M.T #2235 Outcalls and gift certificates available *in house only

Shelton Jewelers A BRILLIANT CHOICE

Calling all Chefs that love Girl Scout Cookies!

The Cookie Caper is the most delicious gala event in New Mexico. Top chefs from Santa Fe, Albuquerque and across New Mexico transform Girl Scout cookies into one-of-akind gourmet desserts. Your participation will help the Girl Scouts of New Mexico Trails provide programs and training for more than 5,000 Girl Scouts and 3,000 volunteers.

2013 Restaurants so far:

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Posa’s

Join The Food Depot in building a new Food Distribution and Education Center.

DID YOU KNOW:

El Merendero Catering

ONE STOP CATERING MAKES IT EASY! (Posa’s) tamale factory and restaurants have been serving the Santa Fe community since 1955. Our popular catering menu has been expanded, and we now offer both full service and self serve options. Posa’s has added a full line of quality disposable service ware so our customers can purchase food and serving items all at one place at one time. We are truly your one stop caterer!

Save time and money by calling or visiting us today.

Contact: Jeff or Mark at @ 505-471-4766 with two convenient locations to serve you, 1514 Rodeo Rd. and 3538 Zafarano Dr.

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One coupon per catering order. Cannot be used with any other discount or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering. Exp. 1/31/13

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RESTAURANT 15%

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Cannot be used with any other discounts or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering.

Excludes tamale or catering purchases. Exp. 1/31/13

•

The Food Depot is forced to turn away food donations due to lack of space

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The new building will allow The Food Depot to provide enough food for more than 10 million meals per year

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Interested in a hard hat tour of the construction site? Contact us for a tour schedule

The need is growing, and The Food Depot needs to grow with it. The Food Depot is BUILDING TODAY to feed Northern New Mexicans tomorrow.

Join Us. Donate to Build Hope TODAY! www.thefooddepot.org (505) 471-1633

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Contact us today 505.988.2355 or info@tantiluce221.com 221 Shelby St. • Santa Fe

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

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M

Still Thirsty?

aybe you’re celebrating the end of a year that’s been good to you, or maybe you’re saying,“Thank God it’s finally over!” Whatever the case may be, New Year’s is a time for joy and jubilation. To help you ring in the new year with style, we talked to four local mixologists to get their thoughts on what’s hot in cocktail culture now and what they predict for the coming year. Whether your tastes run toward the classic or the new and inventive, these cocktails will make a splash at any New Year’s Eve party and have you happily toasting well into 2013.

Monte Up

Skinny Pomapolitan From Francisco Fabara of Agave

Francisco agrees with Christine about twists on the classics, including rye Manhattans! According to him, on the east coast, “Rye is big everywhere.” He also noted that craft beer is exploding in popularity, with bars routinely carrying dozens of beers on tap. But what he’s seen at his bar is an increased demand for skinny cocktails: low-calorie alternatives to standard cocktails. While they’ve been around for years, he points to the Bethenny Frankel Skinnygirl line as a sign that this trend is as hot as ever. With many of us making weight-loss resolutions for the new year, why not start things off right with Francisco’s pared-down Pomapolitan? It comes in at a dainty 165 calories per 2.5-ounce serving.

From Christine Wiltshire of the Palace Christine describes herself as “old school” and sees the future of cocktails as going back to the tried and true standards. “People want to reminisce of the good days gone,” she says. “The scents and tastes bring back the memories most wish they were still living.” With a nod to the Palace’s history as a casino, Christine offers the Monte Up, an (ri)1 Manhattan with a little extra special love in it.

Start with a chilled martini glass and a shaker full of ice.

Pour over the ice: 2 shakes of Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel-Aged Bitters and 1 part sweet vermouth to 3 parts (ri)1 rye whiskey Shake vigorously and strain into glass. Serve with a cherry.

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon is located at 142 West Palace Ave. in Santa Fe, 505.428.0690, www.palacesantafe.com.

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Add to a shaker: 3 parts Grey Goose vodka 1 part Cointreau 1 part pomegranate juice Squeeze of fresh lemon Shake and pour into a martini glass Garnish with pomegranate seeds and a lemon twist.

Agave Lounge is located inside the Eldorado Hotel at 309 West San Francisco St. in Santa Fe, 505.988.4455, www. eldoradohotel.com/agave_lounge_bar.

Pressed Martini

From Chris Sanchez and Sam Gerberding of Del Charro Similar to Francisco’s observation about craft beers, Chris comments that he has noticed the rise of the “educated guest” who wants to “participate more in the drink process.” These enthusiasts arrive at the bar with “a clear understanding of possibilities, liquor qualities, and imagination.” It is for those educated imbibers that Francisco presents the Del Charro Pressed Martini.

Add to a shaker: 1 part vodka (brand of your choice; we recommend Grey Goose) 1 part Sprite 1 part soda water

s t o r y b y M E LY S S A H O L I K

Shake together with ice, then strain into a martini glass.

Drizzle a Chambord anchor* down the inside of the glass.

Let sit for 30 seconds for separation, then serve. *the term “anchor” refers to a liquid that, by virtue of its density, sinks to the bottom of the drink.

Del Charro Saloon is located at 101 West Alameda St. in Santa Fe, 505.954.0320, www.delcharro.com.

Rosemary Clementine

Gin & Tonic From Missy Auge of Tanti Luce 221

Speaking of imagination, the drinks on Tanti Luce 221’s menu are bold, inventive and playful. The absolute fun Missy is having really comes through. When asked about cocktail trends, Missy agrees that it’s back to basics with an emphasis on the classics. Still, “I do my own thing,” she proclaims, and the result is a full line of house infusions including Tanti Luce 221’s Rosemary Clementine Gin. Missy says gin is fun to make cocktails with because of its interesting and complex flavor, and she’s finding that people are becoming more interested in gin. “Gin is the new black!” she exclaims. “And when you think about it, gin is the original infusion: a blank spirit that someone added juniper to.” Missy expanded on that infusion by adding citrus and herbs to create a specialty liquor that tastes great in a simple gin and tonic.

Rosemary Clementine Gin: 2 whole clementines, juiced 2 sprigs fresh rosemary ½ clementine, sliced 750 mL bottle of high-quality gin (Missy recommends Beefeater 24) Pour out a little bit of gin to make room in the bottle and add infusion ingredients.

Let the liquor infuse for approximately two weeks, tasting regularly to gauge the flavor. (If you start now, it’ll be ready for New Year’s!)

To make the gin and tonic, fill a rocks glass with ice. Add 2 ounces Rosemary Clementine Gin. Fill with tonic water (Missy recommends a quality tonic such as Fever-Tree). Garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary.

Tanti Luce 221 is located at 221 Shelby Street in Santa Fe, 505.988.2355, tantiluce221.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

December 2012 - January 2013

69

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December 2012 - January 2013

magazine.com

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly at 5 505.995.9595 · 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe AndiamoSantaFe.com

“The Compound Restaurant’s contemporary American cuisine is derived from Santa Fe’s rich heritage of regional and Mediterranean influences. Zacatecas is an extension of culinary traditions from central Mexico. Offering something authentic and new has always been my vision.”

— Chef Mark Kiffin, James Beard Award Best Chef of the Southwest

ONE AWARD WINNING CHEF TWO RESTAURANTS

A Santa Fe Landmark on Canyon Road

An authentic Mexican Taqueria in Nob Hill, Albuquerque

The Compound Restaurant features seasonal contemporary American cuisine with impeccable service in an historic adobe building designed by Alexander Girard. Offering an extensive list of world class wine, a full bar, picturesque garden patios, elegant dining spaces and private dining rooms for special events, The Compound Restaurant is a destination for a memorable Santa Fe experience.

Chef Kiffin’s latest culinary concept, Zacatecas, is named for a region in central Mexico known for its classic, cross cultural blend of foods and recipes.

Zacatecas offers a selection of Mexican specialties with fresh, organic ingredients and a Margarita bar featuring Tequilas, Mezcal, and beer exclusively from Mexico.

Lunch: Monday through Saturday 12 to 2 PM Dinner Daily: 6 PM – close Bar Daily: 5 PM to close • Bar menu available

Zacatecas offers all day dining daily Lunch: Monday through Saturday 11:30 AM to 4 PM Sunday Noon to 4 PM Dinner: Monday through Saturday 4 PM to 10 PM Sunday 4 PM to 9 PM

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505.982.4353 www.compoundrestaurant.com

3423 Central Avenue (Amherst & Central Avenues) 505.255.TACO (8226) www.zacatecastacos.com

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B BETTER T R SAVE

ROOM FOR DESSERT. RED SAGE AT BTR HAS A BRAND NEW CHEF. Chef Ka’ainoa Ravey’s menu will reflect his own unique style – a little Hawaiian, a little New Mexican, and a little Asian twist, with bold flavors and locally sourced ingredients.

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